What's the Best Lock for a Folding Knife?
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I love the axis lock, and compression lock. Plus, I love a good ol’ back lock too.
This is for my type of use. If I just neede to beat on it, triad all the way.
Your point about most people’s use is very true. Fact of the matter is, the vast majority of people could safely use a slipjoint for the entirety of their knife use.
For the rest of us, 99% of the time pretty much anything that locks the blade is plenty.
Ambidextrous locks like the AXIS and BB lock are my favourites, but that’s mostly because I’m a lefty, and because your fingers don’t get near the blade path, which I love.
I use my primary knife for style. I carry my Leatherman wingman for actual work!! My edc knives don’t do much more than open packages. Mostly new knife boxes! 😝🔪
I use my edc's a good bit for bags, weedeater string and stuff like that(I do landscaping) but I also carry a leatherman and it's what i use when I have time and if it's hard on it. Lol atleast I'm not the only one!
Great point about the use. Just today I opened a bag of tactical dogfood, then I did battle with a ballistic microwave dinner. After recovering from that, I cut up a tactical cardboard box AND had to cut several lengths of tactical duct tape. I tactically trimmed some of my hot pepper plants in the yard, and snipped a ballistic thread off of my dog's tactical collar. Somehow, by the grace of the gods of tacticalness, my Bailout's axis lock held through the strain and saved the day. I'd go on about it, but there is some ballistic chicken I need to cut up before I can take a tactical nap.
Lol!!!!!
My first folding knife was a Boy Scout slip joint. Didn't have a lock. I don't care how strong a lock is, I grew up trained to not put that spine pressure on the blade because of slip joints. I don't trust any lock where my fingers are concerned. I don't hard use anything these days, so there's no reason for me to even have a lock. Years ago, there was a period of time where I carried a knife in the field (military) and needed to trust it, so it was a fixed blade.
For me, the lock is a fidget factor, so I gravitate toward axis, compression, etc. I won't NOT buy a knife because it has a liner/frame lock, of course, but I may shy away from a back lock or triad, unless I really, really like the knife (I have several).
Anyways, I'm with you. Best lock is the one that works when you need it for they type of use you put to it. Love the lock you love!
We watch TH-cam videos, therefore we need the strongest lock ever made! Don't want to take a chance of that blade closing on our fingers when we're slicing paper for fun or opening the box containing our next knife.
I would like to add a button lock flipper knife to my collection. Lock type for me is more about fidgeting than strength.
Try a Hogue. Really well built with button/plunge lock and flipper. Bought one because it was a real steal (no, not Real Steel) and fell in love.
All locks invented up to this point are strong enough for any reasonable task as long as they are done RIGHT.
What are people doing to put enough pressure on the spine of the blade to cause any lock to break? I’ve used knives since I was a kid, spent 11 years in the military, 9 of those in special operations, and never had a lock fail, or even a slipjoint close on me accidentally.
"Testing" ZT framelocks I guess 🤣. I think it's nonesense.
I agree! I did have a Kershaw liner lock fold on me(can't remember the model) but at the same time it was my fault. I was being stupid on the side of the road in the dark rushing. I had a flat on my dualie work truck and the inside tire blew and there was rubber hanging down and I tried stabbing into it for some dumb reason to start the cut and it folded with pressure. Got a pretty nasty gash on 2 fingers. But that was 100% my fault. I've never had one fail since because I use it smartly. I carry a otf 85% of the time and they are not known for great lock strength but never had a problem with them failing. I'm here after just being curious while trying to decide if the manix 2 lock is a good option.
I am a Tri-Ad lock fan, let me try to explain:
1 - Safety is number 1
2 - Cold Steel knives are not only the Tri-Ad. You also get a great steel and they are very sharp. They have a great value.
3 - The Tri-Ad is not only strength. They have almost no blade play. They are well centered. They have a great lifespan. It is ambidextrous. It has a safe to carry detent. Some people love the sound it makes.
4 - You have to equate self defense. If you equate only utility you wont understand.
5 - Not everyone lives in US. A lot of people in the world cannot carry a gun.
6 - Self defense inside the house is easy. Inside the house I can have a fixed baton, a machete, a sword. You have to equate what you can carry when you out on the street to understand.
7 - If the fixed blade was as easy to carry as a folder, when you out on the street, noone would carry folding knives. I tried carrying fixed blades several times and the maximum overall length I can carry its 7 inches overall, confortable and discreet. The Cold Steel folders give a lot reach that are important in self defense and when you understand that you could use even a linerlock for self defense you have a lot of confidence in the Tri-Ad.
8 - The collapsible baton could be much better than the folder for self defense but they are much heavier. The folder is very lightweight.
9 - Knives are hybrid tools. They can be used for utility or defense. Thats why I think that they compensate more than dedicated weapons and I live in a country where I cannot carry a gun out in the street.
10 - Its a matter of preference.
I like number 10.
No, I won't equate self defense. Sorry.
@@metal_complex well there is other things in there you can equate are related to utility.
No need to say sorry. Those are yours opinions in the video. I dont expect you to think like me.
PowerMadHeadBanger
A knife for self defence
LoL
I'd rather have a flashlight (or even a fleshlight)
I'd only consider a knife for self defense in two scenarios.
1. You are being pinned/choked against a wall and you use your knife to get out of the hold and run away effectively keeping the knife out of the fight when not necessary.
2. The other person has cornered you and already has a knife. At that point it's a massive gamble anyway so having your own knife can even up the stakes a little.
Otherwise, you would be better off with self defense training or a good pair of running shoes.
I want to learn how that 1% uses their pocket knife. I was in the army (navy) and now in construction and a pocket knife is something that i use daily for lot’s of knife tasks my entire life. I never encountered a scenario where even a slip joint knife couldn’t do so someone give me an example.
I agree in principle, however a lock provides a safety buffer I appreciate. For instance you are using the tip and slip placing pressure on the back of the knife, knock the back of the knife turning quickly etc. or god forbid improvised self defense. Yes it’s easy to “plan” around avoiding those shortcomings, but what can go wrong will eventually feels to me the way of things.
Hard use I can only come to conclusion of a using fixed blade
It's already deployed when you grab it.
You're absolutely right. The vast majority of 'work' cutting is done with a box knife or some shitter like a husky. I've got a whole collection of stuff but the hardest workers I have are a victorinox trekker and a leatherman supertool 300. Most of these folders we see end up occupying a space which is basically jewellery for men. No hate, I love them too.
A mans pocket knife is first and foremost for cutting but most people don’t or can’t carry every “right tool for the job” everyday. This is when a pocket knife has to flex into other roles in a pinch and that’s why I prefer a well rounded knife.
The big reason I stopped using liner and frame locks regularly is because I was putting a hole in someone's belt at work and the little twisting motion(like how you'd use an awl) put enough force on the liner and it closed on my index finger and I was very displeased with that.
So basically anything but those two and I'm sold.
I guess compression locks would fall in that category as well? If you twisted the wrong way or something it could pull the tab and disengage the lock?
Also, I am not saying that the lock failed, a somewhat regular usage of my knifes is something that does not appear compatible with that sort of lock type. And I've always been skeptical of backlocks. It might be a personal hangup but I do not like being in contact with the locking mechanism when in a standard hammer grip.
I'm a officer would you recommend a cold steel knife with the tri-ad lock for self defense. I will be using it someone tries to take my service gun or in a emergency situation.
I honestly don't know anything about self defense. The lock has little to do with that scenario in my opinion. Really, its just an exceptionally durable lock, so that type of attribute shines in hard use or abuse.
You should be more concerned with one handed operation for quick deployment than lock strength if self defense is the primary use for the knife. To answer your question yes the TRI-AD lock is plenty strong for use in self defense. Check out the SOG Seal XR Flipper if you're looking for a tactical folder.
Honestly I'd say the majority of "us" being the enthusiast/collector crowd, use knives as fidget spinners more than as a knife. The reason I approve of the triad lock is that for any knife task it doesn't get in the way most are 1 hand open and closing easily and it doesn't cost extra in comparison to other knives of similar materials. But I have most locking types and all of them are adequate for my needs.
Not to mention it's waaaaaaay stronger then all the rest by a long shot!! Look at Andrew Demko's comparison video's, they are a huge eye opener!!! They really surprised me. Check them out if you haven't. He compares them to many other of the top name co.'s knife that are comparable......lol assuming u don't know, which I'm sure u do lol.
@@dick_richards Is it stronger, yes definitely. In practice I find it doesn't matter though because my policy is always use every folding knife like it doesn't have a lock at all.
The lock is there as a safety not as a crutch to use the knife wrong and if you use it like that almost any lock will keep you safe.
I saw a post where a dude was going on a rant about Frame locks because he was using the spine of an open knife to knock off bottle caps and cut the shit out of himself and I was like well play dumb games win dumb prizes.
@@gnomersy1087 lmao someone should have told him about this great invention called 'THE BOTTLE OPENER!!!'........ mercy.
But yeah, your theory about locks makes sense.
You absolutely nailed it. What are going to be ' using" the knife for. If really hard outside of normal use by far Cold Steel triad lock.
Personally I like Axis , Able, compression, then some button locks.
Great video really got me thinking what do I use my knives for. Thanks.
That new Steel Will Ant Lock looks pretty cool! Very excited to check that out
Same here!
Love me an ambidextrous lock, as a lefty. If only they decided to release a model that can also be left hand carried... then I’ll be all over it (although I’d probably need to wait for a D2 model based on Tasso pricing).
Geoffrey Pearce price will come down when it comes to dealers
Manix lock is just as strong as the triad. The transfer of forces are the same. Depends on strength of liners and scale material
liner locks < frame < compression < lock back < axis/ball bearing < tri-ad for strength....I generally do not think liner locks are too good...they are cheap and prone to catastrophic failure (that said I LOVE Rats, great knives for day to day/edc use, I carry a Rat2 in D2 quite often). Other than Rats, maybe one flipper you keep around for fun, you want to avoid liner locks. Everything else is pretty good. For extreme situations, Sabenzas are often titanium frame locks and are rock solid. Anything frame > is very good.... compression the liner slips into a groove. It's better than liner locks. Oh you're not in those extreme scenarios normally? Your car breaks down out in the woods....somebody jumps you.... well most of us that never happens to so...better to have a good solid FOLDER that disappears in your pocket than...NOTHING. When picking a knife imho, 1. blade steel, 2. lock, 3, ergos (feel in hand, handle material), 4. action (my preference are bronze washers, but ball bearings make for the flippiest action, nothing) EDCs you can't go wrong with: Rat2 in D2, Delica, Cold Steel mini Recon1 (Aus10A, bowie), Benchmade mini Osborne, or mini freak or mini bugout, Spydie Para3 or Para3 lightweight, expensive option, SpyOpera....heavy use knives for home....Rat1, Paramilitary 2, Griptilian, loads of other options, outdoors/camping folders (you want to carry a sheath for a fixed blade? Go for it)...Cold Steel Recon 1, Aus8A, tri-ad, partial serration with coating, bowie...big, beefy, good for outdoorsie stuff, that hinderer is very nice, other big beefy opeions. You don't NEED the tri-ad lock 99.99% of the time, but what about when you do? Want to have to rely on a liner? PASS. Do you really NEED a fire extinguisher in your home? 99% of the time, not really, but....do you own one? Also, another thing to consider, locks that you can open and close one-handed....liner, compression, axis (you CAN close frames and lockbacks and tri-ad one-handed, but it's a good bit more difficult because those locks are so solid.
This has to be the only time that the cold steel was the smallest knife on the table
Nah, it's the sleeping giant at the table.
You need to check out a cold steel ad10. One of the best knives of the year. Yeah I know it was first a custom but it just hits all the right buttons
I've already reviewed it 👍😉
A friend of mine cut his thumb badly as he was prying a tree that he accidentally hit with his bow, to get the arrow out, it was a cheap liner lock knife, the lock malfunctioned and the blade closed on the part where the thumb is connected to the index finger, it was a few years ago and he still feels pain sometimes there. I have ever used my Glock knife for this task, but I would rather recommend a slot head screwdriver and a hammer or a mallet, to operate on trees to get your arrows out. It is interesting, if you give people a slip joint knife like a Victorinox, they would never think about putting load on the spine, but since it is a folder with a lock, they assume it's a fixed blade, I would never rely on any lock, because like all pieces of equipment, they work great till they are not, and then lazyness or neglectfulnes takes its toll, because you don't wanted to get a proper tool for the job. The problem with folders is that if the lock malfunctiones the blade rotates directly towards your hand, with a fixed blade, if the blade breaks you probably hit your hand on something when you follow thru, but the blade won't usually come in contact with your body, besides that you should always consider, doesn't matter which tool knife, spanner, screwdriver etc. what will happen when the tool or the object you are working on breaks, and if you could run into something when the force gets released, the direction of the force that gets free when something breaks is called the line of fire, and there must not be anything like objects or bodyparts located.
Oof. I would trust a larger cold steel folder more than a cheap fixed blade though. But in general I agree a fixed blade would be better for prying or something.
I love it.. my dad carried a slip joint his whole life on a farm.. never once closed the blade on his fingers.... i never have either.. locking knives are for people who need help understanding the laws of physics... 😂😂🤣🤣👍👍👍👍👍
I'd go with axis all day. Gonna try out the frame lock soon
I disagree: the general user *does* need and *should* have a knife with a completely reliable lock because you don't know what you may need your knife for day to day. Not every normal EDC task involves medium use, nor is 'extreme' either. Try cutting into a 20 inch wheel of hard cheese with a framelock that isn't perfectly designed & fitted. The knife will probably fail and you will probably cut yourself. A true daily carry should be almost 100% reliable unless your doing something absurd like prying concrete or driving the knife into a tree. If that means carrying a Cold Steel or a Microtech, then that's what the user should carry. High-end framelocks fail all the time, linerlocks too. The most reliable lock I've used in the Axis-type.
I would say cutting into a 20 inch wheel of cheese falls under the "abnormal use" category. Most people probably aren't using their knives for that, so a framelock is still a good choice.
@@metal_complex Maybe but my point is that I wasn't expecting to (and rarely if ever need to) do that. But that day I did, and my rather high-end WE framelock failed. I've also had failure with Custom Knife Factory locks and numerous others. Very dangerous, not to mention disappointing. I need my daily carry to be safe and completely reliable regardless of what may get thrown at me. I now carry a MiniFreek because of the strength and peace of mind the Axislock offers.
I decided a while ago to stay with one lock type (for muscle memory's sake) and thus exclusively use liner or frame locks for my EDC knives, and so it is my favorite type.
I don't know about that choice, but you have the right idea about muscle memory. For ease of use. For safety of use. And for that one time, that one situation where you need 100% concentration on the situation unfolding before you, where you can handle your knife (or gun) without thought or fumbling. That muscle memory can save a life. Your EDC may be the only tool on hand.
You are 100% right that in this times with sistem collapse, and zombie apocalipsis in stores, knowing how to be fast is a must!
Zombies? Lol. No. Turn off the TV for a week and see what happens to your brain.
Yes I do need a super strong lock or a weaker lock type with a flipper to protect my digits; safety first, Bro... :-) Peace, Stiletto :-).
I’ve batoned a stupid amount of wood with my Rat 1. It works great - by my back locked Ka-Bar Dozier sucks for it because of the back lock, and it will disengage. I usually use a fixed blade for the task, but there have been a few times when I’ve been outdoors and only had my folder. Simple fix, I just don’t carry my back locked knives if I’m going outdoors, but it has soured me to those types of knives.
Lock bar well executed is my personal favorite next being push button. Why liner and frame locks are still a thing is beyond me
I can't have a fixed blade in my state I was wondering on the best lock system for self-defense for the money
I'm among your stated 20% about 50% of the time. Yes I have used my folders in camping and hunting situations. I've used big CS folders to build fires, lighter weight kindling production, no heavy batoning, but tent stakes, skinning and gutting, butchering. I do not stab into hard objects, throw, cross cut baton hard wood, or pry very much, maybe harvesting fatwood. So thought and perspective. Still with hunting and carcass harvesting, the handle materials and strengths must be considered due to slick fatty bloody gunk, dirt etc getting into the lock and compromising its ability to hold, yeah, it can and does happen. These knives are usually kept razor sharp and IF and WHEN it happens if you get cut bad enough, you will wish it had not occured. Prefer fixed blades tho.
Guess I'm a bit of a odd ball my daily carry the one I absolutely will have in my pocket ? A SAK SPARTAN . I learned on a slip joint so a lock is not that important to me. That said I will also carry a QSP Parrot or a EAB RAZOR knife with a lock should i need a lock. 🦉
I select a knife that matches my use case for that day. Opening bags of cement would get a more basic knife that can handle the dust. No ball bearings etc. Opening Amazon packages would get a nice smooth opening knife but not too stout.
Jobs where hard use is needed from a knife:
+Logistics- pallets, tie-downs, etc.
+Restaurants- packaging for glass containers, chemical containers, produce crates, etc.
+Manufacturing- cleaning dies and forms of plastic, foam, or rubber residue
+Healthcare- packaging of delicate equipment such as glass products, EMTs, etc
+HVAC workers-
+Electricians and Cablers-
+Construction and City Services-
+Retail- packaging for bulk shipments
And just keep in mind, every big office building has receiving and facilities departments.
More people out there need hard use knives than someone might think, but some of these folks can't open carry a fixed blade.
However, if the lock works well, but the blade fails is another consideration.
Personal opinion is the Axis lock, titanium frame lock is second maybe not the strongest that goes to Tri-Ad but they're strong enough for my use and easy/fun to manipulate/use.
I think that the 'Tri-Ad-Lock' combines safety and resistence. In short distance comes compression, frame and axis, imo.
For light to medium EDC wouldn’t any modern locking knife be enough? At the point where lock strength truly matters to you, Triad Lock is your only choice if you are not using a fixed blade.
I love my cold steel mini ak-47 and it is absolutely my hard use beater but i don’t any of my other lock types (axis / spyderco bearing / lock back / i don’t own a compression lock yet) weak at all and i use my knives for land scaping work...
It has a blue anodized pocket clip, again sorry I asked so many questions lol.
Everything has a failure point (even fixed), knowing the potential task requirements guides the gear. Glad you eluded to steel type, handle, deployment, blade design, construction materials and cost not just lock type. They're all part of the overall package to perform a task.
what’s the name of the left-most knife ? i mean the Italian automatic knife. i’m looking for the exact one with the lucky knot logo. thx!
I’ve been using frame locks for the last 20 years, just turned 40 and all of a sudden I’m into compression locks and micarta. Think I’m having a midlife crisis.
Hey MC, what was that Titanium knife you had on the table with the thumb studs?
My favorites are button lock and axis....least is a lock back. Hate anything that requires two handed operation.
Three mall ninjas were upset by your totally reasonable argument.
Lol 🤣
Can anyone tell me when did liner locks become popular?
I’d like the fixed blade but can only carry folders cos live in uk and I use
It all the time for all sorts as I work mostly outside and rope and I ask more from my knife than the average jo hunting and first response
What would you recommend
Helpful, good vid!
The Tri-ad lock "ROCK'S"
Tri-ad lock - strongest. What is the best lock - to each their own.
Hey Big MC lol what about the Scorpion lock? That's a thing right? And have you seen the latest Neeves Knifes? Ita Awesome lol
It all depend on how much you use your edc. I use my knife for everything so yeah i want my knife to do anything i want. And i dont want to be looking like batman with a whole bunch of stuff on my belt. I hate paper cutting comments. That just proves that your life is boring.
Where's the shark lock?
You missed the mark on the explanation of the Compression lock. Its not just a liner lock on the back.
Ya I did. This is an old video, but you're right 👍
Sorry not the CM-18 or the ZT
From the title I was actually hoping for something more definitive. (best actual tests I've seen were done by BladeHQ..interesting if nothing else) In fact, it sounds much like you are parroting the 'conventional wisdom' of the enthusiast community. You also played around with the concept of pivot strength which actually muddies the waters somewhat so I'll stick to locks. To be honest, liner locks, frame locks, bolster locks and sub-frame locks are about the same thing. Consequently I'd expect them to behave equally given the same thickness and strength of material. Triad lock is a very slightly modified back lock. All of them work well enough for any reasonable purpose. The biggest merit of the Axis lock (and its plethora of copies) and the compression lock is the fidget factor. IMHO We seem to agree that "extreme hard use" is best accomplished by a fixed blade.
Now for the question I haven't heard anyone address and one to which I'd really love an answer. For those people who insist on spine whacking a knife, riddle me this: If the lock of any of the liner/frame lock type knives does disengage when pressure is applied to the spine (wrong) side of a knife, isn't it reasonable to assume that when putting pressure in the correct orientation (right side/edge), wouldn't you expect the lock to go further or more completely into engagement? Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks!
Do you live in Topeka
good
I'm an assassin. Which knife and lock is best suited for my profession?
A spoon... NO WAIT.... a spoon with a triad lock.
@@metal_complex haha, well played sir!
COLD STEEL TRI-AD BY A MILLION TIMES!!!!!!!!
Can i show u a pic of my knives maybe u can tell me if i wud be able to sell them or trade for a decently priced knife and ty for the video
I like how you stereotype Cold Steel Users.
Good talk!
Thanks for the vid MC, I came across a BHQ vid a few days back that shows testing on this subject and I think some of your viewers might find it interesting, here is the link: th-cam.com/video/ERxHUXAFVs4/w-d-xo.html
As far as "having the strongest lock", I think it just might be a guy thing, that is, unless the particular guy drinks an s-ton of soy, then probably not so much. Thanks again for the videos.
Really cool! Thanks!
7+ minutes to get 1 point across and not show or explain THE FIRST LOCK. im not waiting around to find out at what time you finally start the real video
Welcome to my channel. Use the little slider under the video to fast forward.
LOL
Also I live that you're "not gonna wait around etc etc" but you took the time to type your comment out, then delete it, and type a new comment out. Fantastic work buddy 👏👏
Too much water !!! Boring
So whiney
"he whined in the comments"