Hello. This is long but might help some people. I worked in a scrap yard two summers back in the 60s. We had rail service and shipped some bales down to a terminal about 5 miles away on the Mississippi River to be put in barges. The barges ended up on the Ohio River and were taken to furnaces in Indiana, Ohio and Pennsylvania. The bales we shipped were mostly sheet metal scrap from autos. Think Goldfinger. Other sheet metal scrap made it into the bales. I ran the baler one summer. We also shipped cut up structural steel and cut up railroad rail to foundries by rail. Scrap is seldom one uniform color and it is not this dark. We did not let scrap sit around and rust. The bales were all sorts of colors given that they contained sheet metal of cars of different colors. The bales were 60 inches wide and about 20 inches high. The third dimension was determined by the pressure on the final ram that was compressing the bale. The rams were driven by five 100 hp GE motors with pumps on each end that sat in an adjacent building. Two tracks ran parallel in front of the baler. One track contained gondolas of crushed cars and gondolas for finished bales were spotted on the other track. We had a small direct drive Caterpillar diesel to switch the cars. We also had two buildings for more valuable scrap. One building handled copper, brass and bronze. This was loaded into boxcars that were spotted in the building. The scrap was put in old 55 gal barrels with no tops and secured to the sides. Another building had more exotic scrap such as ferrous metals from metal working, for example, drills, reams, cutting tools and tungsten carbide. The yard itself had stuff everywhere. It was muddy during rains. Dust on dry days. Lots of fun.
A thought for keeping the balsa and styrene sheets aligned is to use T-pins along the outside edges and pin it down to a work surface (extruded foamboard, wood, etc.) while you glue. After it dries, you can remove the pins and test fit the insert (lightly sand the edges, as need, before painting).
I've found that shavings from a pencil sharpener makes realistic looking shredded steel and aluminum scrap for N Scale gondolas. I attach loose shavings to a piece of styrene sheet, with .125 square styrene spacer cemented to the bottom and cut to drop into a gondola. I use 5 minute epoxy to secure the shavings to the piece of styrene. I spray a thick coat of clear lacquer on the shavings to bond them together. After it's painted with red primer or aluminum spray paint, I use PanPastel to give it a realistic look.
Since I'm like you and never throw anything away that I think I might use, I even save the pieces of metal from drilling holes, sawdust, little bits of brass and copper and just about anything I can find. Most of the drill shavings are the right color so I don't have to worry about painting them. I've got one load for a gondola that's made from a plaster casting. I individually painted each piece so it looks incredibly realistic. Cheers from eastern TN
Nice job! I think the inside of the car looks like rust. I've seen a lot of gondolas with insides that look just like the inside of that one. I learned a lot from your video. Thanks!
Wow another great demo at least you show your mistakes or misshape it nice to see how not to do it? well done I wish I had your skill ,,,,,,,best wishes Ken
Cheers! Instead of messing around with the masking tape and the associated problems and its sticking to the car itself, my suggestion is to just line the car with wax paper before adding the styrene scrap and glue. I've done this in the past with great results. Best...."Paul - The CB&Q Guy"
Excellent idea!! It's Carmine, I've just re-subbed under my new channel. No videos yet, in fact, I'm still not back on my feet yet... I have got to try that! 👍👍 The price is certainly right for my horrible situation. It's ideas like this, that's going to keep me going, until some Miracle happens. I have to go look at your other videos about loads and other near- free ideas. Thanks! Carmine 🚂
Glad you liked it. For another "near-free" modelling idea, check out my tree-making videos. They cost only a few cents each and will really enhance your layout.
Hi, How i make coal car loads. I model in S ( 1/64) Begin with a coal car and note the internal profile of the slanted sides. Take 1 inch foam and cut to easily fit into the car. Cut a slopes on the foam to fit with the slope bottom in the car. Shave the foam down as needed so that when it is in the car, it is about 3/16 to 1/4 inch below the rim. Remove the foam and line the car with saran wrap. Place the foam back in. Take black rubber foam pieces from a sheet good and grind it up in a food GRINDER - not a food processor. The result is beautiful sized coal nuggest. Mound the rubber pieces into the coal car, in 2 shallow mounds, like it was filled from a coaling tower. Wet the rubber gently with wet water. Then with a dropper, drop 50/50 white glue over the top. Set to dry. Remove the foam and rubber bits, and remove the saran wrap. Place foam back into car. Looks perfect. Turn car over to have the foam insert shake out. For a scrap metal load, the same process in a gondola. Sift sawdust until you get random small bits of wood. Glue onto foam insert and spray with metalic paint. Walla! a scrap metal car. Weather for rust if you prefer. Bob Schworm - Cleveland
For N-scale, you'll just have to chop the scraps up really small. I think if I ever do any more, I will go with smaller pieces. I did some additional shredding for the 2nd and 3rd loads, but now I wish I had done more.
Nice video BB's would work as well as the nail. And for the bottom of the car, I use real rust flakes from my kids old metal wagon, or cast iron pot, or from and old car that has rusted out.
It turned out well after all Peter! There isn't a modeler among us who hasn't had a disaster or two. If not, they ain't tried hard enough. I have some aluminum scrap loads on my layout that I cut from old soda cans. It was a bit of work but it turned out okay. That is... until I was busted using the kitchen scissors to cut up my cans. Now I have resorted to my old plastic wheels and couplers that I have replaced. Just add some ruddy brown primer and I'm off. Love your loads though. Cheers, Dan
I have just the opposite problem with the scissors. My wife and stepson frequently steal my modeling scissors. I have no problem with sharing, but more often than not, they don't get returned. So, rather than have to waste time hunting them down, I now have two pairs. The old pair lives in a tray on my workbench (where it's easily accessible so I cannot be accused of not sharing) and the new pair is with my tree-making supplies on a high shelf that neither of them can reach. Since my wife never watches my videos and my stepson refuses to read anything he doesn't have to, I should be safe telling my viewers about it. I'd be worried about using cut-up soda cans to represent scrap metal though. There would be hundreds of razor-sharp edges just waiting to open up my fingers.
Of course you can run it empty! It will simply look like dirt and crap on the bottom! It will be perfect! It's simply a matter of painting it mottled black and brown.
Whilst you have done a great job, I feel that you have missed the target completely regarding the paint job. In real life, most scrap steel is painted; and much of it is galvanised or plated (and possibly then painted as well). So having a steel load that is 100% rusted is to miss the point completely. I worked in my cousin's scrap yard during holidays. I saw a lot of scrap steel :D .
That's exactly why I post my mistakes. The car recovered. I glued the torn corners back together. Other damage was restricted to the inside where it just looks like a prototypically abused car.
I sure miss watching your talents and skills. You are a legend
There's no need to miss anything. I've been posting at least one new video every week for several years now.
@@mpeterll but I have had 3 heart attacks and 3 strokes
Hello. This is long but might help some people. I worked in a scrap yard two summers back in the 60s. We had rail service and shipped some bales down to a terminal about 5 miles away on the Mississippi River to be put in barges. The barges ended up on the Ohio River and were taken to furnaces in Indiana, Ohio and Pennsylvania.
The bales we shipped were mostly sheet metal scrap from autos. Think Goldfinger. Other sheet metal scrap made it into the bales. I ran the baler one summer.
We also shipped cut up structural steel and cut up railroad rail to foundries by rail.
Scrap is seldom one uniform color and it is not this dark. We did not let scrap sit around and rust. The bales were all sorts of colors given that they contained sheet metal of cars of different colors. The bales were 60 inches wide and about 20 inches high. The third dimension was determined by the pressure on the final ram that was compressing the bale. The rams were driven by five 100 hp GE motors with pumps on each end that sat in an adjacent building. Two tracks ran parallel in front of the baler. One track contained gondolas of crushed cars and gondolas for finished bales were spotted on the other track. We had a small direct drive Caterpillar diesel to switch the cars.
We also had two buildings for more valuable scrap. One building handled copper, brass and bronze. This was loaded into boxcars that were spotted in the building. The scrap was put in old 55 gal barrels with no tops and secured to the sides.
Another building had more exotic scrap such as ferrous metals from metal working, for example, drills, reams, cutting tools and tungsten carbide.
The yard itself had stuff everywhere. It was muddy during rains. Dust on dry days. Lots of fun.
A thought for keeping the balsa and styrene sheets aligned is to use T-pins along the outside edges and pin it down to a work surface (extruded foamboard, wood, etc.) while you glue. After it dries, you can remove the pins and test fit the insert (lightly sand the edges, as need, before painting).
I've found that shavings from a pencil sharpener makes realistic looking shredded steel and aluminum scrap for N Scale gondolas. I attach loose shavings to a piece of styrene sheet, with .125 square styrene spacer cemented to the bottom and cut to drop into a gondola. I use 5 minute epoxy to secure the shavings to the piece of styrene. I spray a thick coat of clear lacquer on the shavings to bond them together. After it's painted with red primer or aluminum spray paint, I use PanPastel to give it a realistic look.
Nice scrap loads. They look very realistic, esp. behind the B&M mogul. Thanks for sharing your learning process with us.
Since I'm like you and never throw anything away that I think I might use, I even save the pieces of metal from drilling holes, sawdust, little bits of brass and copper and just about anything I can find. Most of the drill shavings are the right color so I don't have to worry about painting them. I've got one load for a gondola that's made from a plaster casting. I individually painted each piece so it looks incredibly realistic. Cheers from eastern TN
That’s a brilliant idea, I’m going to keep my minuscule offcuts of plasticard from now on for just such a project. Thanks for sharing. Paul
Thank you for posting this. I am just getting back into HO scale trains and find your videos very instructional.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge - even if some of it was learnt "on the fly". End result looks fantastic.
Great! The end product looked very realistic.
The loads turned out great. They look really good. Thanks for posting.
Those loads look incredible!!! nice work as always...
Nice job! I think the inside of the car looks like rust. I've seen a lot of gondolas with insides that look just like the inside of that one. I learned a lot from your video. Thanks!
Excellent work. Great ideas. And yes solvent glue does eat thru painters tape. Try parchment paper next time to protect the car.
Great ! I have started to save all the small plasticard bits I can...
Well done! I appreciate you sharing the entire process, warts and all.
Awesome as always...even with the mess up. Love the nail/magnet idea and now i know never throw any scraps away
I always show my fowl-ups so that others may learn from them, hopefully without making the same mistakes themselves.
Love watching what you come up with!!!
That scrap looks good. Nice going!
great job on the scrap loads.. thanks for sharing.. vinny
Wow another great demo at least you show your mistakes or misshape it nice to see how not to do it? well done I wish I had your skill ,,,,,,,best wishes Ken
Nice work on the loads, Thanks and great work.
Cheers! Instead of messing around with the masking tape and the associated problems and its sticking to the car itself, my suggestion is to just line the car with wax paper before adding the styrene scrap and glue. I've done this in the past with great results. Best...."Paul - The CB&Q Guy"
Very nice, even if there was a learning curve involved here. They look great.
Very nice work. Weathering adds great detail and effect.
Great job as always. Keep up the good ideas. Thx Otto
Your scrap load idea is great! It looks so realistic in the gondola. -from Tom Pilling
nice job peter
What a load of scrap! teehee. Nice job Peter.
Those scrap loads look fantastic :) Next time I will make my own instead of buying them!
Great video, interesting viewing, thanks for sharing.
Excellent idea!! It's Carmine, I've just re-subbed under my new channel. No videos yet, in fact, I'm still not back on my feet yet...
I have got to try that! 👍👍 The price is certainly right for my horrible situation. It's ideas like this, that's going to keep me going, until some Miracle happens. I have to go look at your other videos about loads and other near- free ideas. Thanks!
Carmine 🚂
Glad you liked it. For another "near-free" modelling idea, check out my tree-making videos. They cost only a few cents each and will really enhance your layout.
I do look forward to seeing more!
These look great! Keep up the good work
the car looks good from here. look like its rust inside. Nice
looks great. I'm going to give it a try.
Way cool it looks so real great job and love ur work
Nice touch....thanks for sharing....Jack
Hi, How i make coal car loads. I model in S ( 1/64)
Begin with a coal car and note the internal profile of the slanted sides. Take 1 inch foam and cut to easily fit into the car. Cut a slopes on the foam to fit with the slope bottom in the car. Shave the foam down as needed so that when it is in the car, it is about 3/16 to 1/4 inch below the rim.
Remove the foam and line the car with saran wrap. Place the foam back in.
Take black rubber foam pieces from a sheet good and grind it up in a food GRINDER - not a food processor.
The result is beautiful sized coal nuggest.
Mound the rubber pieces into the coal car, in 2 shallow mounds, like it was filled from a coaling tower.
Wet the rubber gently with wet water. Then with a dropper, drop 50/50 white glue over the top. Set to dry.
Remove the foam and rubber bits, and remove the saran wrap. Place foam back into car.
Looks perfect. Turn car over to have the foam insert shake out.
For a scrap metal load, the same process in a gondola. Sift sawdust until you get random small bits of wood.
Glue onto foam insert and spray with metalic paint.
Walla! a scrap metal car. Weather for rust if you prefer.
Bob Schworm - Cleveland
Excellent video
These shouldn't be too hard to transfer to N scale-Great Video!! Thanks for sharing!!
For N-scale, you'll just have to chop the scraps up really small. I think if I ever do any more, I will go with smaller pieces. I did some additional shredding for the 2nd and 3rd loads, but now I wish I had done more.
They all look fine-Thanks!
Great job! Thank you!
Just goes to show you even a long time modeler can learn new tricks. Yes I mean myself haha.
Nice video BB's would work as well as the nail. And for the bottom of the car, I use real rust flakes from my kids old metal wagon, or cast iron pot, or from and old car that has rusted out.
Thank-you for that suggestion. I have heard of others using this trick before, but never tried it myself.
Pigment powder works very well for colouring.
Nice, interesting as always
New subscriber here 🙋.... nice work 😎
It turned out well after all Peter! There isn't a modeler among us who hasn't had a disaster or two. If not, they ain't tried hard enough. I have some aluminum scrap loads on my layout that I cut from old soda cans. It was a bit of work but it turned out okay. That is... until I was busted using the kitchen scissors to cut up my cans. Now I have resorted to my old plastic wheels and couplers that I have replaced. Just add some ruddy brown primer and I'm off. Love your loads though. Cheers, Dan
I have just the opposite problem with the scissors. My wife and stepson frequently steal my modeling scissors. I have no problem with sharing, but more often than not, they don't get returned. So, rather than have to waste time hunting them down, I now have two pairs. The old pair lives in a tray on my workbench (where it's easily accessible so I cannot be accused of not sharing) and the new pair is with my tree-making supplies on a high shelf that neither of them can reach. Since my wife never watches my videos and my stepson refuses to read anything he doesn't have to, I should be safe telling my viewers about it.
I'd be worried about using cut-up soda cans to represent scrap metal though. There would be hundreds of razor-sharp edges just waiting to open up my fingers.
I understand completely Peter. But, just in case; this conversation never took place, and I was never here. LOL! Cheers, Dan
But I didn't hear the missile hit the target.
you always do a nice job, but relax you always look uptight LOL
Waxed paper works even better.....
Use normal PVA glue mixed 50/50 with water. Leave overnight and your hopper will not warp.
Of course you can run it empty! It will simply look like dirt and crap on the bottom! It will be perfect! It's simply a matter of painting it mottled black and brown.
Well thats what low side gons do!
Hi. Veri good.
Whilst you have done a great job, I feel that you have missed the target completely regarding the paint job. In real life, most scrap steel is painted; and much of it is galvanised or plated (and possibly then painted as well). So having a steel load that is 100% rusted is to miss the point completely. I worked in my cousin's scrap yard during holidays. I saw a lot of scrap steel :D .
Thank-you for that observation.
Good job Mate! But that heavy, metal shackle you got on your wrist must throw you off balance when painting. No? LOL!!
Sorry the first damaged the car, but hopefully we, your viewers, will learn from your mistake.
Otherwise the loads look really good.
That's exactly why I post my mistakes. The car recovered. I glued the torn corners back together. Other damage was restricted to the inside where it just looks like a prototypically abused car.
great gondola loads,i just subscribe to your channel check out some of my videos you might like them thanks for sharing.