One minor quibble. The bearings on prototype fright cars do not come to a needle point. They are a cylinder. You could file them flat and then drill them out. Or if shipping the whole axle, file them flat, And glue a small styrene rod in place.
What a great looking scrap load John! It was a smart idea to keep the plastic wheels when you switched them to metal. I will keep that in mind as I will need many scrap loads when I build my steel mill. Cheers!
Hi John, thi is a super-easy tutorial for making great loads. Taking Fred Wild's comment a little further, if you place the wheel on top of a nut, you can use a hammer to drive the pointed axle tip out of the wheel. In the process, I made a number of dents and dings in the wheel, which Fred alluded to (GREAT suggestion Fred!). I also ended up with 3 bent wheels and 1 even broke in half, out of the 6-8 that I tried. One other tip I found, that you inadvertently used: free styrene sheets. Yes, free! In the US, every four years or so there is an invasion of 'voteforme' bugs, they sprout like mushrooms. After the election, these signs just become landfill pollution. But guess what? They are all sheet styrene or corrugated styrene... that's right - FREE modeling supplies! But no fair stealing before the elections! And if you knock on their door, most people are Happy to have you remove the signs, and it's a great way to meet the neighbors! My wife 'helped' me clean out the garage this fall, but when I told her she threw out $300 of train supplies she didn't believe me. I showed her how I can cut up the old signs and she offered to help clean up after the next election! PS Even those 4x8' signs are either corrugated styrene or paper glued to thin PLYWOOD... now I can't wait for the voteforme bugs... Now if we could only find a way to get rid of those annoying TV commercials...
love the re-use of those annoying signs! I am glad you were able to run with Fred's ideas and make an even better version of the load. He is a fantastic modeler!
Hey John, beside the music volume being just a little high, you did an excellent job on that scrap wheel load. I might just get you to do one for me and send it my way...lol. Just kidding. It looks just like what Craig (the guy I told you about who used to work as a Fed. Rail Inspector) described to me. Awesome job my friend! - Jason
Looks good. Very nice tutorial. Two thinks I would have done difference would have been to drill out the axle so there are no points, and "damage" some wheels with flat spots, cracks or even half a wheel. Video edit comment - In my opinion I would lower the music when you speak.
Those are good tips and would make the load look even better. Maybe I pivot back to it and add a few broken wheels as detail.. As for the volume, yeah I agree with you. Learning to edit video too - thanks for the feedback and I'll learn from it.
@@johnarthur6302 Honestly, I'd leave the music out altogether. It really doesn't add anything -- we came here to listen to you explaining how to make this load, not to listen to music.
@@beeble2003 - I don’t disagree here - this is an older video and I was learning to edit. One thing I have since learned is the volume sounds different on a compiled version than it did in the editor and I do tend to turn it down and use music less these days.
Load looks nice, but is it realistic? Separating wheels from axles requires seriously heavy equipment, so I wouldn't expect a RIP track to be doing that. Especially if they're just going to throw the wheels and axles into the same gondola. I'd expect the only reason to separate them would be if they're different grades of steel that need to be recycled separately.
You’re probably right for the old layout- On my current layout the RIP area has some structures wear heavier work could conceivably done. I’ll probably make additional loads at some point which would include whole wheels.
Rather than using the "I" beam that has to be bought, I use 2 long strips of foam that I got for free from a construction site where I get 90% of my foam. And you can make it any thickness you want... Otherwise a very interesting video...
I think I see your flaw in that gluing (or painting) on a painted glossy surface is a bad idea. When repurposing material (especially painted material) it should first be prepared by sanding down the glossy surface first before applying anything to it's surface. This is especially true when using card stock too. When I glue the printed surfaces together from cereal boxes, beer boxes and any other cardboard I find to use I always sand the surface before gluing or painting. Oh and by the way, your background music is way too loud. Cheers from eastern TN
Nice work. Looks very real.
Thank you, Craig. Kind of you to say!
One minor quibble.
The bearings on prototype fright cars do not come to a needle point. They are a cylinder.
You could file them flat and then drill them out.
Or if shipping the whole axle, file them flat, And glue a small styrene rod in place.
that's a good catch, if I ever make another load I am sure I will be more prototypical!
super looking load and great technique. very good video.. Cheers Rob
Thanks, glad you enjoyed!
Brilliant!!! Simply Brilliant!!!
Thanks Bill!
What a great looking scrap load John! It was a smart idea to keep the plastic wheels when you switched them to metal. I will keep that in mind as I will need many scrap loads when I build my steel mill. Cheers!
Right on, thank you! I hope it works well for you, too!
We (usually) never throw anything away...
Like that Scenery Solutions rust. Steel Mills need rust and lots of it. Load is great.
Thank you!
I just came across this video .... Subscribed!!!! 👍
Thank you, glad you enjoyed!
Hi John, thi is a super-easy tutorial for making great loads. Taking Fred Wild's comment a little further, if you place the wheel on top of a nut, you can use a hammer to drive the pointed axle tip out of the wheel. In the process, I made a number of dents and dings in the wheel, which Fred alluded to (GREAT suggestion Fred!). I also ended up with 3 bent wheels and 1 even broke in half, out of the 6-8 that I tried.
One other tip I found, that you inadvertently used: free styrene sheets. Yes, free! In the US, every four years or so there is an invasion of 'voteforme' bugs, they sprout like mushrooms. After the election, these signs just become landfill pollution. But guess what? They are all sheet styrene or corrugated styrene... that's right - FREE modeling supplies! But no fair stealing before the elections! And if you knock on their door, most people are Happy to have you remove the signs, and it's a great way to meet the neighbors!
My wife 'helped' me clean out the garage this fall, but when I told her she threw out $300 of train supplies she didn't believe me. I showed her how I can cut up the old signs and she offered to help clean up after the next election!
PS Even those 4x8' signs are either corrugated styrene or paper glued to thin PLYWOOD... now I can't wait for the voteforme bugs... Now if we could only find a way to get rid of those annoying TV commercials...
love the re-use of those annoying signs!
I am glad you were able to run with Fred's ideas and make an even better version of the load. He is a fantastic modeler!
Amazing Job. seems so simple.. i'll give it a shot.
Thanks Rick!
Looks great! 👍 👍
Thanks 👍
excellent looking load.
Thank you!
brilliant. the rust looks pro!
thank you!
Nice job!
Thanks for watching!
Hey John, beside the music volume being just a little high, you did an excellent job on that scrap wheel load. I might just get you to do one for me and send it my way...lol. Just kidding. It looks just like what Craig (the guy I told you about who used to work as a Fed. Rail Inspector) described to me. Awesome job my friend! - Jason
Yeah, it sounded ok when I edited it, but it comes across loud after the upload. Lesson learned there, thanks for the feedback.
If you glue a washer under or in the load you can use a magnet to easily unload the car.
Excellent tip! I need to do this for this load as well as some coal loads I’ve made.
@@johnarthur6302 Welcome. Just passing along a tip that learned from others.
Looks good. Very nice tutorial. Two thinks I would have done difference would have been to drill out the axle so there are no points, and "damage" some wheels with flat spots, cracks or even half a wheel.
Video edit comment - In my opinion I would lower the music when you speak.
Those are good tips and would make the load look even better. Maybe I pivot back to it and add a few broken wheels as detail..
As for the volume, yeah I agree with you. Learning to edit video too - thanks for the feedback and I'll learn from it.
@@johnarthur6302 Honestly, I'd leave the music out altogether. It really doesn't add anything -- we came here to listen to you explaining how to make this load, not to listen to music.
@@beeble2003 - I don’t disagree here - this is an older video and I was learning to edit. One thing I have since learned is the volume sounds different on a compiled version than it did in the editor and I do tend to turn it down and use music less these days.
Load looks nice, but is it realistic? Separating wheels from axles requires seriously heavy equipment, so I wouldn't expect a RIP track to be doing that. Especially if they're just going to throw the wheels and axles into the same gondola. I'd expect the only reason to separate them would be if they're different grades of steel that need to be recycled separately.
You’re probably right for the old layout- On my current layout the RIP area has some structures wear heavier work could conceivably done. I’ll probably make additional loads at some point which would include whole wheels.
Rather than using the "I" beam that has to be bought, I use 2 long strips of foam that I got for free from a construction site where I get 90% of my foam. And you can make it any thickness you want... Otherwise a very interesting video...
Great tip - and I have since played around with a table top wire foam cutter that would make short work of the job!
@@johnarthur6302 I get all of my foam parts from dumpsters from construction sites.
I think I see your flaw in that gluing (or painting) on a painted glossy surface is a bad idea. When repurposing material (especially painted material) it should first be prepared by sanding down the glossy surface first before applying anything to it's surface. This is especially true when using card stock too. When I glue the printed surfaces together from cereal boxes, beer boxes and any other cardboard I find to use I always sand the surface before gluing or painting. Oh and by the way, your background music is way too loud. Cheers from eastern TN
That's a good tip - and something I have learned since this was filmed. rough up any surface before gluing!
Background music is very obnoxious.