So does the speedboster make your lens wider or longer? I dont get it. For example for my sigma 18-35 is my actual lengths below 18 and higher than 35? Great video btw!
@@wcsdiaries ok so the speedbooster has the effect of making the lens appear wider. The sigma 18-35 f1.8 used on a MFT camera without a speed booster gives you a full frame equivalent of 36-70mm f3.6. With a speedbooster you will get an equivalent of 25-50 f2.5. hope that helps, thanks for watching
If the f1.4 becomes a f1.9, how is that a speed boost? Are you sure you need to multiply it by 2 at the end? Shouldn't an f1.4 be a stop faster and equal f1?
Hey there Will, liking you content. This was my first video of yours I was introduced to via my google searching, Liking your content and how clearly you explain things. I can't seem to find out what people are talking about when they say a lens is a bit "soft" (4:23) Could you please help me out? :)
One thing I haven't found an answer to anywhere is whether or not using a speed booster effectively changes the level of compression/distortion of a lens by changing the angle of the light selected for. We know that full frame equivalent focal lengths for crop sensors are not actually equivalent since the focal length number always changes the angle of view but a larger sensor linearly increases the area of view. This means having a larger sensor with a narrower lens is not the same as having a wider lens on a smaller sensor. I just want to make sure that using a speedbooster does NOT, for example, make a 100mm full frame lens speedboosted on a crop sensor camera have an angle of view any wider than a 100mm lens would on the native full frame camera. I understand that a 100mm full frame lens and a ~65mm crop sensor lens may have an equivalent "field of view" but they don't have the same level of compression and a 65mm crop lens will eventually always capture more information than a 100mm full frame at the edges of the frame if you move far enough down range from the camera since it has a wider angle of view despite a smaller sensor. With this in mind, I can't tell if a speedbooster is just fitting the exact same final image down onto the smaller sensor (ignoring lighting and bokeh differences) or if it is changing the angle at which the light is selected for ahead of the main lens. Essentially I'm wondering if a speedbooster allows the dimensions of the image to look exactly the same on a crop sensor with a speedboosted full frame lens when compared with an image taken using the full frame camera that the full frame lens was made for assuming it's a theoretically perfect speedbooster with no wasting of the image circle.
A fact that not many photographers seem to know is that the "in between" stops like 1.4, 2.8, 5.6 etc. are in fact square root numbers that are rounded down; 1.4=√2 2.8=√8 5.6=√32 11=√128 22=√512 This can also be simplified as; 1.4=√2 2.8=2√2 5.6=4√2 11=8√2 22=16√2 where you can clearly see the relationship that each consecutive number is twice as large as the previous one. 0.71 is a rounded down number which should be 0.71412135.... which is 1:√2
Just about the only explanation I've found that actually does the math on the aperture correctly. Most people seem to say that whatever f-number an ef mount lens says gets multiplied by the factor of the speed booster but never take into account the crop factor of the MFT sensor. Well done. Thanks!
Perfect description. I’ve got a Metabones and Viltrox, fantastic bits of kit to push your filming. This vid really helps if you want to know your equivalent focal lengths
Then lens doesn't gather more light, however the focal reducer does increase the light intensity onto the sensor itself. Effectively, making the lens system seem to gather more light. A legacy lens being designed to gather light for its intended sensor target (e.g. 35mm full frame). Light lost to a smaller sensor; that is, light information lost outside of that smaller sensors area, is now re-focused back onto that smaller area. Of course, the light capacitance of the additional elements will introduce losses, but these are more than offset by a good quality focal reducer.
Awesome video! Thank you so much! I just got the same 0.71 Metabones speed booster for my GH5. Looking into Cine lenses and I noticed the MFT mount versions cost more than the Canon mount. Very strange! Anyway, thanks again, super helpful video!
Hey! This seems like some sort of magic solution for smaller sensor. But I'd guess there have to be some drawbacks for such spec boost. For instance you have to pay with slower f-stop while gaining higher focal distance while using teleconverters. There have to be any trade off while using speed boosters too!
It’s true, they are almost magic! Only trade offs I can think of are: the extra cost of a speed booster, the fact that AF can be negatively effected. That’s about it!
I just got the Viltrox to put a Canon 70-200 f/2.8 onto my crop sensor Canon M6 Mark ii. After all these calculations, my max aperture will actually go from 2.8 to 3.1, and my focal length will go to 227. If I used a the regular adapter, I’d be at f/4 but 320mm focal length. My whole idea is that there really isn’t a ton of wide open glass for M mount.
nope, the x2 is the crop of the camera so applies if the speed booster is used or not, so an f2.8 lens on a MFT camera would give you a full frame equivalent of f5.6 without the speed booster, but an equivilent f3.9 with a speedbooster. hope that makes sense, thanks for watching.
@@WillChidlow So if I plan to use a Canon f 1.8 lens that I own on the GH5.. would I be getting MORE light into the sensor than if I were to use it on a say.. Canon 70D? (which is what I have now for photos.)
It would actually gather slightly more light and be slightly wider. The 70d is apsc so has a 1.6 crop so f1.8x1.6=f2.9 full frame equivalent. A MFT sensor is 2x crop so with the speed booster f1.8 x 0.71 x 2 = f2.6
@@WillChidlow I'm confused. So... "at the same f stop" a 35mm lets in more light than a crop sensor because the sensor is objectively larger? I feel like the light the aperture lets in should be a 'fixed amount' regarding the lens' physical properties. But I understand that some lenses aren't made for 35mm so they look like a fake fisheye tube image or if 'wide open' on full frame they can experience harsh vignette, so it's clear that sensor size can experience effects from the physical properties of lenses... (sizzling sound of my smooth brain melting...)
This speed booster wouldn't work with native lenses as its intended to be used with Canon EF mount full frame lenses. You need a lens intended for a larger sensor for the speedbooster to do its thing. I think f numbers on crop lenses are so mis marketed. the lumix 12-35 f 2.8 is a great example of this. Whilst the aputure of the lens is f2.8 when you compare it to a full frame f2.8 lens the lumix lens on an m43 sensor will actually behave like an f5.6 lens on a full frame sensor. Camera and lens manufacturers love to tell you that their 12-35mm will actually behave like a full frame 24-70mm but then suddenly go quiet about how aperture is effected in a less positive way because it suits their marketing. This is ultimately what lead me back towards buying a full frame camera because i always felt like i was struggling with low light and DOF with micro four thirds, even with this awesome speed booster. Hope that helps
The numbers drove me nuts. I thought that the lenses would get wider with the speedbooster but never really gave it much of a thought. I threw the nifty fifty on and it was indeed wider and I said to myself, "Aight, cool" and then I have been researching wide lenses and a guy suggested the MIR-1 37mm and said that it would be more like 40mm (but it's 42mm in reality). This confused the life out of me. I checked the lens and I really loved it but still couldnt comprehend the 40mm thing. It really fucked me up because that lens is just EXACTLY what im looking for. I thought his numbers didnt add up and that I would rather get 25mm because of the x0.71 but his photos on his album suggested otherwise. It obviously was mid range rather than wide. I contacted the guy to ask about the maths and he just didnt answer. All is confusion until I watched your video. Thanks a lot for your help.
@@WillChidlow Yo i just bought a Meyer Lyedith 30mm 3.5 from a vintage lens shop and guess what ahahha dude you're not gonna believe this He pitched the lens to me saying that it'll behave like a 22mm lens because of the x0.71 on the speedbooster I said what about the x1.6 in the sensor bro He said it doesn't matter, it'll be 22mm *explained the maths learnt from your video* "Well that brings a whole new perspective" he admitted ahahah thanks man
What about Vintage lenses where Aperture is Manual, does the Speedbooster add the 1 extra stop on them or you just get their original lowest F stop? for example @2.8 will they be a 1.8 or they'll still be a 2.8 because speedbooster can't read their electronic F stop.
Although the camera won’t show what the aputure is on An old manual lens like it will with a compatible auto focus lens it will behave in exactly the same way regarding the calculations
Do I get that right? It makes Canon EF mount lenses compatible with the micro 4/3 sensor of the GH5 and adds one f-stop to the lens? Do you know if I can use it on my Canon camera (6D MKII) with a Canon lens just to add one f-stop? Would be awesome if I could make my 16-35 F4 work like a F2.8
Yep you’ve got it right 👍 although I don’t think you can get an EF to EF adapter and even if you could I do t think the physics would work the same as it works on m43 sensors because they are so small and therefore there is more “image” available to squeeze onto the sensor. With a full frame sensor and lens the sensor already covers the entire available image. But your theory is indeed correct. Given the high price of a speed booster if I was in your situation I would sell the f4 lens and with the extra money you’d spend on a speed booster you could probably afford to buy the f2.8 version of your lens and not need an adapter at all. Hope that helps? Thanks for watching and commenting
Ahh yes, that is often the weigh up unfortunately. When I was shooting with canon I was a big fan of the 24-70 f2.8 with IS but I guess you are looking for something wider by the sound of it, which I think is going to be a tall order I think 😬
Yeah I definitly need the wider lens so the 16-35 is close to perfect and it´s just that trade-off between price, f-stop and IS. Not easy to decide but I guess for now I´m happy with the f4. There is nothing like THE perfect lens anyway. The Tamron 15-30 f2.8 with IS was very close to perfect but you can´t use regular ND filters on it which makes it almost useless for filming.
Just having a look myself and it appears that the lens you really want just doesn’t exist! You can have wide and fast or wide and IS but it doesn’t seem you can have wide, fast AND IS all together. I wondered if a prime lens might give you what you need but even searching for that I’m coming up empty 🤷♂️ it seems that once you start looking wider than 24mm the manufacturers preference seems to be speed over IS. Something like the sigma 18-35mm f1.8 for example. But if IS and super wide are a must for you then it looks like f4 may be the best you can get at this time
so the speed booster allows full frame on crop bodies , and allows all the light ( image) to hit the sensor rather than just the centre portion with the outer portion being wasted , ( crop factor) theres always light loss through converters of any kind even your 50mm f1.4 with the converter becomes a 70mm f1.8 , thats half a stop of light loss ,
Yep very true, but on a m43 body as per my examples, a 50mm f1.4 would be a 100mm f2.8 without the booster so the speed booster is a vast improvement in my mind
@@WillChidlow cool.yeah .. theres a few versions now then the better quality ones can be invaluable at times . especially on fast lenses anything over 5.6 can slow the af right down 0
Hey thanks for the video. I have this same setup (metabones t ultra .71 and 50mm 1.4) except im using a g9. It still shows my max aperature as 1.4 and not 1. Is there a reason for this?
Ok so using the black magic with an speedbooster (0.64 XL), an aperture of f4 would become something around f2.5 an then with the crop factor of 1.9, it would go to 4.8 ? is that correct?
Yep exactly right. And without the speed booster that same f4 lens would have full frame equivalent of 7.6 so the booster is maki g quite a difference 👍🙏
Correct me if I'm wrong, but when it comes to the F-Stop, you only have to double it when trying to figure out DOF, correct? If it becomes and F1 lens then it will let in as much light as any other F1 lens, but the DOF will be equivalent to an F2 on a full frame camera
Good research and explanation Will, well done. I have been shooting with the BMPCC (now 4K) since 2014 and use a Metabones but the maths is always confusing! Does not matter how long I have been a filmmaker (30 years) there is always something to learn.
You needed to listen to Tony Northrup long ago dude!!. Hes covered this in depth in numerous videos. Everyone seems to forget about applying the crop factor to apperture and thinks the speedbooster magically creates more light than the original lens ever collected!! Its absurd . As Tony says there are no free lunches in photography.
2:03 Did you mean teleconverter? Macro tubes don't zoom in but rater let you focus closer to the subject and they don't reduce the amount of light coming in, teleconverters do zoom you in and reduce light. 7:38 that 1.9 full frame equivalent aperture is referring to the depth of field right? Not the ammount of light?
Hi Franklin 👋 thanks for watching! You are quite right about the teleconverter yes that is what I meant! However regarding the 0.9 aputure that IS for depth of field AND light gathering capabilities compared to full frame. Hope that helps clear that up. Many thanks again for watching 👍🙏🙌💪
@@WillChidlow So the same way you multiply the aperture by the crop factor to get the effective DOF you also multiply the Tstops by the crop factor to get the effective light transmission? Thanks
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it doesn't matter if the lens is designed for a full frame, aps-c, or mft...the calculation is the same. In other words, if I'm using a 35mm aps-c lens (unlike your full frame example), I'm still calculating (for my GH5)...35mm x .71 x 2...correct?
Yep the calculation is the same regardless of efs or ef however it’s worth noting that particular adapter only fits very few efs lenses. I know a lot of people use the sigma efs18-35 f1.8 lens with this adapter and get great results although metabones themselves state the adapter is only intended for use with EF glass. Regardless of that though the calculation remains the same. Many thanks and hope that is helpful. 👍🙏😎
@@WillChidlow Thanks will...yeah, the ef/efs issue is not my concern because I'm using vintage and modern Nikon or Nikon mount glass with a Viltrox speed booster (I can't afford the Metabones). But the Viltrox is .71x as well...so I'm assuming all calculations still apply.
I think you got the aperture calculation wrong. If you have f/1.4 m43 lens, the light cathering capability truly is f/1.4, but the depth of field is equivalent of 2.8 on full frame. I don't think speedbooster changes this fact? Because then, it would be kinda funny to call it "speedbooster"..
Thank you for the video. One other question I always thought about is if you have two lenses. Both are 50 mm. One is a full frame lens. And one is a a APS-C. If you are using the .71 speed booster, on the GH5, do any calculations change when using a full frame or an APS-C lens? It appears that if you use a .64 booster it gives you a wider depth of field using a full frame lens, however if you used an APS-C lens, it would not fully cover the sensor. So I’ve always wondered what happens when you use a full frame on the .71. Forgive me if I didn’t get all that perfect but hopefully you get the idea. Thx.
Hi, check out the metabones website for all of the options they have but yes in theory that would work if they have the right option for your needs. it all depends on your camera. a lot of people use the canon EF to M4/3 speedbooster to run the sigma EFS 18-35mm on M4/3 cameras such as the GH5. if you are using a Canon APS-C camera then you would need a EF to EF speedbooster but its important to note that not many EFS lenses work on the booster, it depends in the flange size. the sigma 18-35 works but many others wont fit. The EF to EF booster is really intended for using FF lenses on APSC cameras so they behave more like they would on a full frame camera. hope that helps and thanks for watching
Thank you for the video. One other question I always thought about is if you have two lenses. Both are 50 mm. One is a full frame lens. And one is a a APS-C. If you are using the .71 speed booster, on the GH5, do any calculations change when using a full frame or an APS-C lens? Meaning are they both going to have 71mm 35 equivalent FOV? It appears that if you use a .64 booster it gives you a wider depth of field using a full frame lens, however if you used an APS-C lens, it would not fully cover the sensor. So I’ve always wondered what happens when you use a full frame on the .71. Forgive me if I didn’t get all that perfect but hopefully you get the idea. Thx.
If I have understood correctly then I think your logic is correct. Very few canon EF-s lenses (apsc) actually fit on the speed booster. It is intended for EF (full frame) lenses although there are a few compatible exceptions such as the sigma 18-35 lens. As you say though, a 50mm lens is always a 50mm lens, and the crop factor is defined by the booster AND the cameras sensor. Hope that helps 👍🙏🙏
You doubled the lens for your micro four thirds camera but you then you doubled the aperture for a 'Full Frame'?? So what is the real aperture for your micro four thirds??
Hi, the calculations are the same for focal distance and for aperture so when I doubled the aperture I am applying the micro four thirds crop to the aperture to give me the full frame equivalent
@@WillChidlow wait... Im confused now.. i have a bmpcc 4k which is four thirds micro sensor and i use the ultra .0.71 speedbooster. Your saying that your 1.4 aperture 50mm turns into a 1.9? That would mean you lost a stop of light? BUT on my setup my full frame 50mm 1.8 shows 1.1. is that a false reading and an i really registering a 2.2 aperture? I thought the speedbooster is supposed to GAIN light not take away?
@@atc576 hey, your camera will show you the adapted aperture correctly as 1.1 BUT it doesn’t show you how that aperture is affected by the MFT sensor. This is where camera marketing have pulled one over really as they always tell you the crop factor of a sensor (2x for MFT) but they never shout about the fact that same crop is also applied to aperture when comparing to full frame. So you have still GAINED because you f1.4 lens without speed booster is actually an f2.8 full frame equivalent and with the booster it is a 2.2. Hope that helps
Hey 👋 thanks for watching! Glad the video was helpful! It’s hard to recommend as it really depends on your personal workflow and lens preferences. I bought mine for a specific low light project and because I already had some canon glass to use. And enjoyed using it. I ended up selling it so I could buy more native glass in the end but I’d have certainly kept it if I could have afforded too! I know a lot of people love using one with the sigma 18-35mm f1.8 as it is so great in low light and I nearly went down that route myself. I still may do so in the future 🤷♂️ hope that helps a bit?! Thanks again 👍🙏🙌💪😎
Great, thanks for that! Quick MFT question, if using an MFT camera (GH5) with a native lens (Lumix 12-35, f2.8) is there still a 2x crop factor in focal length, ie does the focal length become 24-70 or is this only applicable when using FF lenses on a MFT camera? Thanks and keep up the great work!
Great question, and the answer is yes, absolutely. That’s why MFT lens are all much smaller focal lengths compared to their full frame equivalents. I used to use a 12-35mm on my gh5 but a full frame 24-70 on a full frame camera gives me an identical field of view.
Hi Tony, I get very little wiggle with my booster. As for sharpness I find it will pretty much match the lens that’s on it. It certainly won’t make a lens sharper though. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 👍🙏😎
HEY WILL ! One question, I also have a GH5, Can you put a speedbooster with an original M4/3 Lumix Lens made for the GH5? Say for example the Panasonic LUMIX G LENS, 42.5MM, F1.7 ASPH? Will it mount ? Will it do its thing?
Good question but no unfortunately not. Speed boosters rely on a lens/mount intended for a larger sensor so they can refract the light that would otherwise miss the sensor into the smaller sensor. This booster is mft to ef mount so works with canon mount lenses only
Thanks Will, I've been going nuts watching otherwise good reviewers talking nonsense. Most get it right with focal length but claim the impossible, that the speed booster will get more light through a lens than it would have without the booster. That, of course, is a physical impossibility. What the speed booster does do is recover some of the light that would otherwise be lost beyond the edges of the sensor by using a lens to concentrate the lights closer into the edges of the sensor, so getting back much (but never all) of the speed lost by the crop factor of the lens on that sensor.
What about the autofocus? It’s gone, right? We have similar stories. I was shooting video on a Canon and when I compared the footage with the brand new camera that I bought (Panasonic EVA1), I realized that canon sucks at video quality hard. So, in this situation my EVA1 was the first camera and the Canon mark IV was the second. I couldn’t match these two in post. The difference is huge and Canon C-Log sucks. So I needed a second camera, something better that Canon and cheaper than EVA1. After many searches I bought a GH5s instead of Sony. This mirrorless guy is way better than Canon at video quality. I miss only one thing from canon, and that is autofocus, is the best on the market. I bought the GH5s with a 25mm 1,7lens, and it’s very nice but I need longer lenses. I’m on the market to buy a metabones adapter. And, of course, I can’t decide which one to buy. The informations and reviews about metabones are very hard to find,so, thank you for your review. I’m not sure if the speed booster deserves the extra money. Do you know if the non speed booster one is reducing the light that enters through the lens? I don’t care about the 2x crop, I care about the light and the speed of the lens. Thanks!
Hi 👋 thanks for watching! You raise some great points, yes auto focus is pretty much gone for continuous use with video but it isn’t great on GH5 anyways so I don’t really use that. But auto focus does work for photography and this means you can still use it to set focus for video, for example when I shoot a video like this one I use auto focus to set the shot and then switch to manual and even with the speed booster it works fine. With that in mind maybe one of the cheaper speed boosters could do just as good a job but I haven’t tested them so can’t confirm for sure. I haven’t seen many adapters for the gh5 which aren’t speed boosters as well, it seems to me that most people want to address the poor low light performance but if you have the gh5s then I guess that is less of a concern for you but light aside it’s also good for that shallow depth of field as well. Hope that helps, thanks again and good luck with making your mind up 👍👌😎🙏
Brah I appreciate the info and specs but would it kill you to go outside or shoot something with examples of what exactly your talking about. I do like 👍 the effort you put in the information but it’s all wasted if I can’t see what it actually does.
Hope you like the video? let me know what you think, feel free to ask me a question with a comment, I'd love to hear from you 👍😎
So does the speedboster make your lens wider or longer? I dont get it. For example for my sigma 18-35 is my actual lengths below 18 and higher than 35? Great video btw!
@@wcsdiaries ok so the speedbooster has the effect of making the lens appear wider. The sigma 18-35 f1.8 used on a MFT camera without a speed booster gives you a full frame equivalent of 36-70mm f3.6. With a speedbooster you will get an equivalent of 25-50 f2.5. hope that helps, thanks for watching
If the f1.4 becomes a f1.9, how is that a speed boost? Are you sure you need to multiply it by 2 at the end? Shouldn't an f1.4 be a stop faster and equal f1?
Hey there Will, liking you content. This was my first video of yours I was introduced to via my google searching, Liking your content and how clearly you explain things. I can't seem to find out what people are talking about when they say a lens is a bit "soft" (4:23)
Could you please help me out? :)
One thing I haven't found an answer to anywhere is whether or not using a speed booster effectively changes the level of compression/distortion of a lens by changing the angle of the light selected for. We know that full frame equivalent focal lengths for crop sensors are not actually equivalent since the focal length number always changes the angle of view but a larger sensor linearly increases the area of view. This means having a larger sensor with a narrower lens is not the same as having a wider lens on a smaller sensor. I just want to make sure that using a speedbooster does NOT, for example, make a 100mm full frame lens speedboosted on a crop sensor camera have an angle of view any wider than a 100mm lens would on the native full frame camera. I understand that a 100mm full frame lens and a ~65mm crop sensor lens may have an equivalent "field of view" but they don't have the same level of compression and a 65mm crop lens will eventually always capture more information than a 100mm full frame at the edges of the frame if you move far enough down range from the camera since it has a wider angle of view despite a smaller sensor. With this in mind, I can't tell if a speedbooster is just fitting the exact same final image down onto the smaller sensor (ignoring lighting and bokeh differences) or if it is changing the angle at which the light is selected for ahead of the main lens. Essentially I'm wondering if a speedbooster allows the dimensions of the image to look exactly the same on a crop sensor with a speedboosted full frame lens when compared with an image taken using the full frame camera that the full frame lens was made for assuming it's a theoretically perfect speedbooster with no wasting of the image circle.
thank you so much, me too. its mental how many sites just gloss over this or completely leave it out
A fact that not many photographers seem to know is that the "in between" stops like 1.4, 2.8, 5.6 etc. are in fact square root numbers that are rounded down; 1.4=√2 2.8=√8 5.6=√32 11=√128 22=√512 This can also be simplified as; 1.4=√2 2.8=2√2 5.6=4√2 11=8√2 22=16√2 where you can clearly see the relationship that each consecutive number is twice as large as the previous one. 0.71 is a rounded down number which should be 0.71412135.... which is 1:√2
Interesting stuff!
Literally no one explain it better, thanks.
Awesome! So glad you found it helpful 👍👍
Just about the only explanation I've found that actually does the math on the aperture correctly. Most people seem to say that whatever f-number an ef mount lens says gets multiplied by the factor of the speed booster but never take into account the crop factor of the MFT sensor. Well done. Thanks!
Hi Hayden, yep absolutely vital part of the calculation in my opinion. thanks for watching
Dude, this is the video I have been looking for so months!!.. Thank you!!!
Awesome to hear 👍🙏😎
Perfect description. I’ve got a Metabones and Viltrox, fantastic bits of kit to push your filming.
This vid really helps if you want to know your equivalent focal lengths
Then lens doesn't gather more light, however the focal reducer does increase the light intensity onto the sensor itself. Effectively, making the lens system seem to gather more light. A legacy lens being designed to gather light for its intended sensor target (e.g. 35mm full frame). Light lost to a smaller sensor; that is, light information lost outside of that smaller sensors area, is now re-focused back onto that smaller area. Of course, the light capacitance of the additional elements will introduce losses, but these are more than offset by a good quality focal reducer.
Interesting! I’d never heard of a speed booster. Glad you worked it out coz my head would’ve been like 🤯🤯🤯
😂 yep pretty much how I felt too! 🤯🤯🤯
😂
Thank you for making this video. Glad to finally learn what the mechanics of how the speed booster effects the lens’s focal length.
Thank you for this. I found this as messy to understand as you did so this is immensely helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
People have said it already, but thank you! Nobody explains it so succinctly anywhere else online. Cheers!
Awesome to hear! thanks so much
Awesome video! Thank you so much! I just got the same 0.71 Metabones speed booster for my GH5. Looking into Cine lenses and I noticed the MFT mount versions cost more than the Canon mount. Very strange! Anyway, thanks again, super helpful video!
Thanks for watching! 👍🙏😎👌
Thank you so much. Was going crazy trying to find answers as well
No worries Chad, happy to help! 👍🙏😎👋
Thanks for doing this, Will!
hey no worries, thanks for watching and commenting! 👍
Finally understood from your video !after watching tons of TH-cam about this ! Thank you very much indeed !!
Great! Glad I could help 👍🙏😎
Hey! This seems like some sort of magic solution for smaller sensor. But I'd guess there have to be some drawbacks for such spec boost. For instance you have to pay with slower f-stop while gaining higher focal distance while using teleconverters. There have to be any trade off while using speed boosters too!
It’s true, they are almost magic! Only trade offs I can think of are: the extra cost of a speed booster, the fact that AF can be negatively effected. That’s about it!
Thanks my man! Only place I’ve found these answers. You just got a thumbs up and a subscriber.
thanks dude! happy shooting! 💪🙏👍😎
I just got the Viltrox to put a Canon 70-200 f/2.8 onto my crop sensor Canon M6 Mark ii. After all these calculations, my max aperture will actually go from 2.8 to 3.1, and my focal length will go to 227. If I used a the regular adapter, I’d be at f/4 but 320mm focal length. My whole idea is that there really isn’t a ton of wide open glass for M mount.
Thank you for giving us the full information about the Speed Boster.
Thanks for watching! Glad you found it helpful 👍🙏😎💪
I'm confused. If I'm taking the f-stop x 2 AFTER x 0.71.. isn't that worse than how the lens is originally? So what's the point?
nope, the x2 is the crop of the camera so applies if the speed booster is used or not, so an f2.8 lens on a MFT camera would give you a full frame equivalent of f5.6 without the speed booster, but an equivilent f3.9 with a speedbooster. hope that makes sense, thanks for watching.
@@WillChidlow So if I plan to use a Canon f 1.8 lens that I own on the GH5.. would I be getting MORE light into the sensor than if I were to use it on a say.. Canon 70D? (which is what I have now for photos.)
It would actually gather slightly more light and be slightly wider. The 70d is apsc so has a 1.6 crop so f1.8x1.6=f2.9 full frame equivalent. A MFT sensor is 2x crop so with the speed booster f1.8 x 0.71 x 2 = f2.6
@@WillChidlow I'm confused. So... "at the same f stop" a 35mm lets in more light than a crop sensor because the sensor is objectively larger? I feel like the light the aperture lets in should be a 'fixed amount' regarding the lens' physical properties.
But I understand that some lenses aren't made for 35mm so they look like a fake fisheye tube image or if 'wide open' on full frame they can experience harsh vignette, so it's clear that sensor size can experience effects from the physical properties of lenses...
(sizzling sound of my smooth brain melting...)
I frikin appreciate you explaining this!
I frikin appreciate you watching and commenting 💪🙏👍😎
What would the aperture be with the lumix 12-35 2.8 native lens be?
This speed booster wouldn't work with native lenses as its intended to be used with Canon EF mount full frame lenses. You need a lens intended for a larger sensor for the speedbooster to do its thing. I think f numbers on crop lenses are so mis marketed. the lumix 12-35 f 2.8 is a great example of this. Whilst the aputure of the lens is f2.8 when you compare it to a full frame f2.8 lens the lumix lens on an m43 sensor will actually behave like an f5.6 lens on a full frame sensor. Camera and lens manufacturers love to tell you that their 12-35mm will actually behave like a full frame 24-70mm but then suddenly go quiet about how aperture is effected in a less positive way because it suits their marketing. This is ultimately what lead me back towards buying a full frame camera because i always felt like i was struggling with low light and DOF with micro four thirds, even with this awesome speed booster. Hope that helps
The numbers drove me nuts. I thought that the lenses would get wider with the speedbooster but never really gave it much of a thought. I threw the nifty fifty on and it was indeed wider and I said to myself, "Aight, cool" and then I have been researching wide lenses and a guy suggested the MIR-1 37mm and said that it would be more like 40mm (but it's 42mm in reality). This confused the life out of me. I checked the lens and I really loved it but still couldnt comprehend the 40mm thing. It really fucked me up because that lens is just EXACTLY what im looking for. I thought his numbers didnt add up and that I would rather get 25mm because of the x0.71 but his photos on his album suggested otherwise. It obviously was mid range rather than wide.
I contacted the guy to ask about the maths and he just didnt answer. All is confusion until I watched your video.
Thanks a lot for your help.
So glad you got some value from my ramblings! happy shooting! 💪🙏👍😎
@@WillChidlow Yo i just bought a Meyer Lyedith 30mm 3.5 from a vintage lens shop and guess what ahahha dude you're not gonna believe this
He pitched the lens to me saying that it'll behave like a 22mm lens because of the x0.71 on the speedbooster
I said what about the x1.6 in the sensor bro
He said it doesn't matter, it'll be 22mm
*explained the maths learnt from your video*
"Well that brings a whole new perspective" he admitted ahahah thanks man
Yahya Dridi this is awesome haha 😂
Incredibly helpful. Thank you!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed 👍🙏😎
What about Vintage lenses where Aperture is Manual, does the Speedbooster add the 1 extra stop on them or you just get their original lowest F stop? for example @2.8 will they be a 1.8 or they'll still be a 2.8 because speedbooster can't read their electronic F stop.
Although the camera won’t show what the aputure is on An old manual lens like it will with a compatible auto focus lens it will behave in exactly the same way regarding the calculations
Do I get that right? It makes Canon EF mount lenses compatible with the micro 4/3 sensor of the GH5 and adds one f-stop to the lens? Do you know if I can use it on my Canon camera (6D MKII) with a Canon lens just to add one f-stop? Would be awesome if I could make my 16-35 F4 work like a F2.8
Yep you’ve got it right 👍 although I don’t think you can get an EF to EF adapter and even if you could I do t think the physics would work the same as it works on m43 sensors because they are so small and therefore there is more “image” available to squeeze onto the sensor. With a full frame sensor and lens the sensor already covers the entire available image. But your theory is indeed correct. Given the high price of a speed booster if I was in your situation I would sell the f4 lens and with the extra money you’d spend on a speed booster you could probably afford to buy the f2.8 version of your lens and not need an adapter at all. Hope that helps? Thanks for watching and commenting
In fact I was thinking of buying the 16-35 f2.8 but what keeps me from not doing it (besides the price) is the missing IS.
Ahh yes, that is often the weigh up unfortunately. When I was shooting with canon I was a big fan of the 24-70 f2.8 with IS but I guess you are looking for something wider by the sound of it, which I think is going to be a tall order I think 😬
Yeah I definitly need the wider lens so the 16-35 is close to perfect and it´s just that trade-off between price, f-stop and IS. Not easy to decide but I guess for now I´m happy with the f4. There is nothing like THE perfect lens anyway. The Tamron 15-30 f2.8 with IS was very close to perfect but you can´t use regular ND filters on it which makes it almost useless for filming.
Just having a look myself and it appears that the lens you really want just doesn’t exist! You can have wide and fast or wide and IS but it doesn’t seem you can have wide, fast AND IS all together. I wondered if a prime lens might give you what you need but even searching for that I’m coming up empty 🤷♂️ it seems that once you start looking wider than 24mm the manufacturers preference seems to be speed over IS. Something like the sigma 18-35mm f1.8 for example. But if IS and super wide are a must for you then it looks like f4 may be the best you can get at this time
so the speed booster allows full frame on crop bodies , and allows all the light ( image) to hit the sensor rather than just the centre portion with the outer portion being wasted , ( crop factor) theres always light loss through converters of any kind even your 50mm f1.4 with the converter becomes a 70mm f1.8 , thats half a stop of light loss ,
Yep very true, but on a m43 body as per my examples, a 50mm f1.4 would be a 100mm f2.8 without the booster so the speed booster is a vast improvement in my mind
@@WillChidlow cool.yeah .. theres a few versions now then the better quality ones can be invaluable at times . especially on fast lenses anything over 5.6 can slow the af right down 0
Hey thanks for the video. I have this same setup (metabones t ultra .71 and 50mm 1.4) except im using a g9. It still shows my max aperature as 1.4 and not 1. Is there a reason for this?
Thanks for the info! I subbed!
Thanks Warren! 👍🙏😎
Ok so using the black magic with an speedbooster (0.64 XL), an aperture of f4 would become something around f2.5 an then with the crop factor of 1.9, it would go to 4.8 ? is that correct?
Yep exactly right. And without the speed booster that same f4 lens would have full frame equivalent of 7.6 so the booster is maki g quite a difference 👍🙏
@@WillChidlow Nice, also, for example, if I use 35mm and F4 on the lens (considering 4.8), do you think i'll still get some blurry background?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but when it comes to the F-Stop, you only have to double it when trying to figure out DOF, correct? If it becomes and F1 lens then it will let in as much light as any other F1 lens, but the DOF will be equivalent to an F2 on a full frame camera
The lens still lets in the same amount of light but the smaller sensor only captures some of it so it effects exposure just as much as DOF
@@WillChidlow Interesting, I've never read that before
so when adding my Canon 24-70mm to my GH5 with speedbooster, what do i add as the 'lens focal length' when asked when I add the lens? thanks!
Thank u so much.. I did not know about F stop.
Glad to help! 👍🙏😎
Wow!! How can your youtube channel be so small? Really nice video!
Thanks! It IS growing! 😛😉
Good research and explanation Will, well done. I have been shooting with the BMPCC (now 4K) since 2014 and use a Metabones but the maths is always confusing! Does not matter how long I have been a filmmaker (30 years) there is always something to learn.
Yep always learning 👍 glad you got some value and thanks for watching 👍🙏😎
Thank you so much!!!!! This is exactly what I was wondering! 👏🏽👏🏽
Glad it was helpful!
upon I adjust the aperture around 1.4, the colour comes out a bit pink,~~~ do you have this problem?
Can’t say I ever experienced this. I moved away from lumix about 4 years ago so sold my booster back then then it’s been a while since I’ve used one.
@@WillChidlow Cheers buddy, I've listed it on sale, hopefully, it can be handed over to the new owner
You needed to listen to Tony Northrup long ago dude!!. Hes covered this in depth in numerous videos. Everyone seems to forget about applying the crop factor to apperture and thinks the speedbooster magically creates more light than the original lens ever collected!! Its absurd . As Tony says there are no free lunches in photography.
Absolutely, his videos helped me get my head around it a lot!
Yes exactly.. tony northups video is essential and no manufacturer explains this
If I were to use 85mm lens - Do I need to set current focal length to 120.7. (85x.71=60.35x2=120.7)
I’m not sure what you mean by “set your focal distance”? Other than that your calculation is right, an 85mm would effectively become a 120mm lens 👍🙌🙏
tahnk you for explainig this.
2:03 Did you mean teleconverter? Macro tubes don't zoom in but rater let you focus closer to the subject and they don't reduce the amount of light coming in, teleconverters do zoom you in and reduce light.
7:38 that 1.9 full frame equivalent aperture is referring to the depth of field right? Not the ammount of light?
Hi Franklin 👋 thanks for watching! You are quite right about the teleconverter yes that is what I meant! However regarding the 0.9 aputure that IS for depth of field AND light gathering capabilities compared to full frame. Hope that helps clear that up. Many thanks again for watching 👍🙏🙌💪
@@WillChidlow So the same way you multiply the aperture by the crop factor to get the effective DOF you also multiply the Tstops by the crop factor to get the effective light transmission? Thanks
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it doesn't matter if the lens is designed for a full frame, aps-c, or mft...the calculation is the same. In other words, if I'm using a 35mm aps-c lens (unlike your full frame example), I'm still calculating (for my GH5)...35mm x .71 x 2...correct?
Yep the calculation is the same regardless of efs or ef however it’s worth noting that particular adapter only fits very few efs lenses. I know a lot of people use the sigma efs18-35 f1.8 lens with this adapter and get great results although metabones themselves state the adapter is only intended for use with EF glass. Regardless of that though the calculation remains the same. Many thanks and hope that is helpful. 👍🙏😎
@@WillChidlow Thanks will...yeah, the ef/efs issue is not my concern because I'm using vintage and modern Nikon or Nikon mount glass with a Viltrox speed booster (I can't afford the Metabones). But the Viltrox is .71x as well...so I'm assuming all calculations still apply.
I think you got the aperture calculation wrong. If you have f/1.4 m43 lens, the light cathering capability truly is f/1.4, but the depth of field is equivalent of 2.8 on full frame. I don't think speedbooster changes this fact? Because then, it would be kinda funny to call it "speedbooster"..
No my numbers are correct, it is called a speed booster because it effectively speeds a lens up
@@WillChidlow but isn't it common knowledge that crop factor does not affect exposure, just depth of field? Or is speedbooster changing this math?
@@joonas.manninen I think you will find this video interesting: th-cam.com/video/1bzHn2cKwLI/w-d-xo.html
Do you have any recommendations for ef to mft speed boosters that will get as close to full frame focal length as possible?
The booster in this video is the nearest to FF you can get. Hope that helps 👍🙏😎
@@WillChidlow yea thx! By the way great vid. I really couldn’t find anything that talked about this stuff.
Is a f/6.3 Reducer suitable for a focal length of 2800mm (SC11 tubus), aimed for Deepsky-Photography with Off-Axis-Guiding (OAG)?
not sure what you mean by a 6.3 reducer 🤔
Yes
Thank you for the video. One other question I always thought about is if you have two lenses. Both are 50 mm. One is a full frame lens. And one is a a APS-C. If you are using the .71 speed booster, on the GH5, do any calculations change when using a full frame or an APS-C lens? It appears that if you use a .64 booster it gives you a wider depth of field using a full frame lens, however if you used an APS-C lens, it would not fully cover the sensor. So I’ve always wondered what happens when you use a full frame on the .71. Forgive me if I didn’t get all that perfect but hopefully you get the idea. Thx.
Good stuff bro
Appreciate it 👍👌💪
Awesome thanks man
Any time!
Brilliant explanation!
Thanks so much and thanks for watching! 💪🙏👍😎
Can the speed booster be adapted to non ff lenses be used to apsc and m4/3 lenses using an APSC camera body?
Hi, check out the metabones website for all of the options they have but yes in theory that would work if they have the right option for your needs. it all depends on your camera. a lot of people use the canon EF to M4/3 speedbooster to run the sigma EFS 18-35mm on M4/3 cameras such as the GH5. if you are using a Canon APS-C camera then you would need a EF to EF speedbooster but its important to note that not many EFS lenses work on the booster, it depends in the flange size. the sigma 18-35 works but many others wont fit. The EF to EF booster is really intended for using FF lenses on APSC cameras so they behave more like they would on a full frame camera. hope that helps and thanks for watching
Thank you for the video. One other question I always thought about is if you have two lenses. Both are 50 mm. One is a full frame lens. And one is a a APS-C. If you are using the .71 speed booster, on the GH5, do any calculations change when using a full frame or an APS-C lens? Meaning are they both going to have 71mm 35 equivalent FOV? It appears that if you use a .64 booster it gives you a wider depth of field using a full frame lens, however if you used an APS-C lens, it would not fully cover the sensor. So I’ve always wondered what happens when you use a full frame on the .71. Forgive me if I didn’t get all that perfect but hopefully you get the idea. Thx.
If I have understood correctly then I think your logic is correct. Very few canon EF-s lenses (apsc) actually fit on the speed booster. It is intended for EF (full frame) lenses although there are a few compatible exceptions such as the sigma 18-35 lens. As you say though, a 50mm lens is always a 50mm lens, and the crop factor is defined by the booster AND the cameras sensor. Hope that helps 👍🙏🙏
Will Chidlow yes. Thank you for the reply.
You doubled the lens for your micro four thirds camera but you then you doubled the aperture for a 'Full Frame'?? So what is the real aperture for your micro four thirds??
Hi, the calculations are the same for focal distance and for aperture so when I doubled the aperture I am applying the micro four thirds crop to the aperture to give me the full frame equivalent
@@WillChidlow wait... Im confused now.. i have a bmpcc 4k which is four thirds micro sensor and i use the ultra .0.71 speedbooster. Your saying that your 1.4 aperture 50mm turns into a 1.9? That would mean you lost a stop of light?
BUT on my setup my full frame 50mm 1.8 shows 1.1. is that a false reading and an i really registering a 2.2 aperture? I thought the speedbooster is supposed to GAIN light not take away?
@@atc576 hey, your camera will show you the adapted aperture correctly as 1.1 BUT it doesn’t show you how that aperture is affected by the MFT sensor. This is where camera marketing have pulled one over really as they always tell you the crop factor of a sensor (2x for MFT) but they never shout about the fact that same crop is also applied to aperture when comparing to full frame. So you have still GAINED because you f1.4 lens without speed booster is actually an f2.8 full frame equivalent and with the booster it is a 2.2. Hope that helps
Awesome video !! This really helped !
Would you recommend buying this setup, so gh5 plus your speed booster and Canon Glas ?
Hey 👋 thanks for watching! Glad the video was helpful! It’s hard to recommend as it really depends on your personal workflow and lens preferences. I bought mine for a specific low light project and because I already had some canon glass to use. And enjoyed using it. I ended up selling it so I could buy more native glass in the end but I’d have certainly kept it if I could have afforded too! I know a lot of people love using one with the sigma 18-35mm f1.8 as it is so great in low light and I nearly went down that route myself. I still may do so in the future 🤷♂️ hope that helps a bit?! Thanks again 👍🙏🙌💪😎
Great, thanks for that!
Quick MFT question, if using an MFT camera (GH5) with a native lens (Lumix 12-35, f2.8) is there still a 2x crop factor in focal length, ie does the focal length become 24-70 or is this only applicable when using FF lenses on a MFT camera?
Thanks and keep up the great work!
Great question, and the answer is yes, absolutely. That’s why MFT lens are all much smaller focal lengths compared to their full frame equivalents. I used to use a 12-35mm on my gh5 but a full frame 24-70 on a full frame camera gives me an identical field of view.
@@WillChidlow the same field of view but not the same depth of field. important to point out.
@Skrotfiske absolutely 👍🙏
@@WillChidlow also a great reason why one would want a speed booster! Thanks for a very informative video.
Bro did you really not provide any visual examples or am I crazy because this was so close to perfect!!
Yeah, live and learn, seems like an obvious missing bit looking back 😕
@@WillChidlow still was a great video, love and learn broski!
Hey Will, does the speed booster affect sharpness? Also, do you find wiggle in the adapter to the lens mount? Thanks for sharing the video!
Hi Tony, I get very little wiggle with my booster. As for sharpness I find it will pretty much match the lens that’s on it. It certainly won’t make a lens sharper though. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 👍🙏😎
@@WillChidlow Great thanks for the reply, keep up the good videos!
So helpful!
Thanks for watching!
HEY WILL !
One question,
I also have a GH5,
Can you put a speedbooster with an original M4/3 Lumix Lens made for the GH5?
Say for example the Panasonic LUMIX G LENS, 42.5MM, F1.7 ASPH?
Will it mount ?
Will it do its thing?
Good question but no unfortunately not. Speed boosters rely on a lens/mount intended for a larger sensor so they can refract the light that would otherwise miss the sensor into the smaller sensor. This booster is mft to ef mount so works with canon mount lenses only
Why also multiply it by 2? Is that every apsc?
nope not aps-c. its for the crop factor of micro four thirds sensor. hope that helps and thanks for watching 💪🙏👍😎
hey man , sweet video does this speed booster effect the auto focus whe videoing ?
Yes very much so unfortunately, it’s pretty much for manual focus only really 😕
Quick question. Can you use a speed booster on an ef mount to speed up your EF lenses?
Hi Shawn, I don’t think they exist 🤔 thanks for watching 🙏😎
I am SO EFFING TIRED of finding more bloody things I need to buy for my kit!! 🤬
Haha, well you don’t NEED it but it sure is fun 🤷♂️
Will Chidlow nah I need it ;)
Thanks Will, I've been going nuts watching otherwise good reviewers talking nonsense. Most get it right with focal length but claim the impossible, that the speed booster will get more light through a lens than it would have without the booster. That, of course, is a physical impossibility.
What the speed booster does do is recover some of the light that would otherwise be lost beyond the edges of the sensor by using a lens to concentrate the lights closer into the edges of the sensor, so getting back much (but never all) of the speed lost by the crop factor of the lens on that sensor.
Hey Don, glad you found the video helpful. I was going nuts too but found the info in the end! Glad I could help a bit! Thanks for watching 👍👌🙏🙌🙌
Does it reduce image quality?
Not noticeably but the answer is probably yes
What about the autofocus? It’s gone, right? We have similar stories. I was shooting video on a Canon and when I compared the footage with the brand new camera that I bought (Panasonic EVA1), I realized that canon sucks at video quality hard. So, in this situation my EVA1 was the first camera and the Canon mark IV was the second. I couldn’t match these two in post. The difference is huge and Canon C-Log sucks. So I needed a second camera, something better that Canon and cheaper than EVA1. After many searches I bought a GH5s instead of Sony. This mirrorless guy is way better than Canon at video quality. I miss only one thing from canon, and that is autofocus, is the best on the market. I bought the GH5s with a 25mm 1,7lens, and it’s very nice but I need longer lenses. I’m on the market to buy a metabones adapter. And, of course, I can’t decide which one to buy. The informations and reviews about metabones are very hard to find,so, thank you for your review. I’m not sure if the speed booster deserves the extra money. Do you know if the non speed booster one is reducing the light that enters through the lens? I don’t care about the 2x crop, I care about the light and the speed of the lens. Thanks!
Hi 👋 thanks for watching! You raise some great points, yes auto focus is pretty much gone for continuous use with video but it isn’t great on GH5 anyways so I don’t really use that. But auto focus does work for photography and this means you can still use it to set focus for video, for example when I shoot a video like this one I use auto focus to set the shot and then switch to manual and even with the speed booster it works fine. With that in mind maybe one of the cheaper speed boosters could do just as good a job but I haven’t tested them so can’t confirm for sure. I haven’t seen many adapters for the gh5 which aren’t speed boosters as well, it seems to me that most people want to address the poor low light performance but if you have the gh5s then I guess that is less of a concern for you but light aside it’s also good for that shallow depth of field as well. Hope that helps, thanks again and good luck with making your mind up 👍👌😎🙏
This booster work canon 200d
Hi, you'd have to check if metabones offer that option but i belive an EF to EF speedbooster would work for that camera. thanks for watching
you confuse aperture for light that hit the sensor and the aperture needed to calculate the DoF 2 different concept
Nope, I fully understand that
Nice
thanks! 💪🙏👍😎
good stuf
Cheers Adam 👍🙏😎
Why only 1080p?
Maybe when I hit 100k subs 🤷♂️😉
Until then we got 30K...
Ok maybe I’ll upload in 4K when I hit 30k 😉
👍
👍🙏😎
Brah I appreciate the info and specs but would it kill you to go outside or shoot something with examples of what exactly your talking about. I do like 👍 the effort you put in the information but it’s all wasted if I can’t see what it actually does.
Yeah sorry about that, hope you still got some value despite that
Needed video
Glad you think so! thanks
Can you improve the audio please ?
Sure let me just get my time machine...
Just go full frame instead :)
Yep that’s what I ended up doing 👍😂
FYI : If you put your 50mm EF it on a on any camera, with a dumb adapter, it will be still 50mm lens!!!
Yep we’ll aware of that, but it won’t have a full frame equivalent 50mm field of view
**affect
you are quite right 😔🤷♂️