Tronxy X5SA Pro - 3D Printer - Unbox & Setup
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.พ. 2020
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TRONXY X5SA Pro Industrial 3D Printer Ultra Silent Motherboard + Titan Extruder, Automatically Leveling with Industrial Linear Guide, Big Print Size 330X330X400mm
High Precision Guide Rail
TITAN Extruder
ARM 32bit Mainboard
CoreXY Motion Modes
30P Integrated Wiring Design
Detachable Printing panel----Convenient for users to remove models
High Precision Large Build Size:330*330*400mm
Automatic Leveling --avoid a lot leveling troubles.
Filament Run Out Detection-- Automatic detection of filament usage, accurate voice warning
Power failure resume to print ---TRONXY X5SA PRO has the ability to resume printing even after a power outage or lapse occurs
3.5 Inch Touch Screen---Clear display and simple control
Safe 24V power supply-Faster heating, more stable temperature, Very safe to use
TPU Model Real Shot ---Printed on X5SA PRO
3.5-inch touch screen - clear and convenient, easy to operate 2, detachable aluminum plate - take the model more convenient, save trouble
Print principle: FDM (Fused deposition molding)
Print size: 330× 330×400 (mm3)
Print accuracy: 0.1-0.4 mm
Positioning accuracy: X/Y 0.0125mm，Z 0.002mm Nozzle quantity: 1
Nozzle size: 0.4 mm
Print speed: 20~100mm/s (suggest 60mm/s)
Moving speed: 100mm/s
Filament: PLA, TPU, ABS, wood, pc,HIPS, wooden filament etc.
Slice software: Cura
Input format: .STL .OBJ
Output format: GCode
Connection: SD card, USB cable(Suitable for skilled users
Power input: 110V/220V AC, 50/60Hz
Power output： 24V/15A DC
Physical parameter Machine size: 580mm×645mm×660mm
Machine weight: 14.5kg
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Its sick
This is one of the best unboxing, teardown videos I have seen in a very long while. Thanks for taking the time to do this. I will be referencing this for my assembly. I'm stuck right now as I got to hasty and tried to use a electric scree drive to fasten the rails. Apparently I got them too tight and thus stripped the bolts. So, passing my lessons learned onto a to the next person.
Bought and built this after watching your video:
Minor issues:
Hardware:
1. The chain was not right, just like yours. Rather than breaking a link like you did, I just mounted it to go to the right instead.
2. One of the pulleys was installed such that the bottom half was upside-down and there was a ridge in the middle of the band. Not a big deal, but I needed to take that assembly apart and reverse it.
3. Many of the steps in the book don't list all of the details, so I had to guess what screws to use. This was not an issue, since I still had about half of the screws left over when I finished. In fat, I didn't even open one of the packets of screws.
4. The default settings the machine had (220?) are too hot for the filament they supply, so it melted it in the Bowden tube. I set it to 207 now.
5. The back place on the hot end was installed in a strange way (90 degrees rotated!) so that the the bar would not slide through. I had to remove this and then re-attach it again.
6. I I had to bend the tabs on the filament roll holder to get my roll to slide in (the hole was too narrow). Maybe the manufacturer I chose uses narrower than normal rolls?
7. The unit seemed perfectly square when I put it together (moved the hot-end mounting bar all the way to the rear as you showed in your video). At some point, it got shifted a lot and I didn't notice until later. I managed to get it mostly back into whack, but there is an issue with re-tightening the frame, which is that the pulley mounts cover the frame tightening screws. This is less than ideal. Also, I will put some L brackets later to make sure the frame stays square. (At least they provided enough extra screws and "boat nuts" for this). I recommend you don't bother attaching the belts until after you have put everything together, as the tension will need to be adjusted anyway.
8. Not a problem, but my power supply doesn't have a voltage selector switch.
9. the side (part cooling) fan didn't work initially, but I found it wasn't plugged in (could be I pulled it out by accident).
10. The frame doesn't attach to the z-mounts quite the way they showed in some cases. (i.e. if I put the screw in from the top, it doesn't catch on the holes in the bottom, but just goes through). I fixed this by simply inserting the bolts from the bottom. You could also just put bolts on the bottom.
11. I also put the build clip plates on the side - BIG mistake. The hot end passed right by here and flung the silver (wire) part of the clip half way across the room, and the clip fell off. Luckily the printer was not damaged in any way. I put the clips on the front and back as after that. To be fair, this is how it was shown in the manual.
12. The tube is overly long as mentioned, but I just used one of those phone holder arms to hold it high above, but I like the idea in this video (attaching it to the hot-end chain) too. I suppose shortening the tube would reduce stringing, etc., but it hasn't been a problem for me since I managed to get the settings fine-tuned.
13. There was some minor scuffing on some of the parts.
As mentioned above, lots of extra parts - for example, and extra bed tension knob and extra micro-switch, so if you drop a screw or something, don't worry.
Adjustment:
1. Leveling the bed was easier than I thought, but getting the Z alignment right took a bit of trial and error. (Mainly because I had no experience with 3D printing, so I didn't know what a stringy first layer meant). I needed to set it so that a piece of copy paper fit a bit tightly in order to get a good result. As mentioned in the video, you have to be careful about pushing the bed up and down, but I haven't had issues with this. When a print is done, I always pry it off 100% horizontally and make sure not to push down or lift up.
2.I do have a bit of scrubbing noise on the pulleys, not sure how to fix that.
3. I added a lot of wire ties to keep stuff in place.
Software:
1. The serial port software included on the SD card was dated 2011 and didn't work on Windows 10 or the latest version of OS X. I managed to find and download a version that did work, as this driver is often used for Arduino boards.
2. This printer was advertised as compatible with Mac and Windows, but only the Windows app comes on the Micro-SD card. Also, I am new to 3D printing, but even I can see that this is a branded very old version of Cura. I managed to steal some files from the Resource folder and get it working in the normal version of Cura 4.5. This is much better (and works on Mac OS), but interestingly, the printer now does the auto-leveling before every run and beeps a lot more.
There was also a coupon included in the box for a free spool of filament, which was a nice touch. I do wish a different size nozzle was included.
Overall, think of this as a kit rather than a product. You do need to be comfortable putting stuff together. If you think of this as a turnkey product, then you may be disappointed. If you think you want to build your own printer from scratch, and order most of the pieces you need and make sure they fit together, this is not bad. I think it's pretty expandable, as you could certainly change out many of the parts fairly easily.
With being set to 220, a PTFE tube will not melt at 220 C It will easily take 250 C. If the tube melted at 220 C then it must not have been a proper PTFE tube. PLA prints between 190 and 220, and PTFE lined hotends can print PETG at 240 comfortably. I have done it many many times with my stock Ender 5 with the standard PTFE tube, though I do prefer Capricorn tubing.
Some good points to watch in your list though.
The serial port drivers, just don't use the included ones. Windows 10 will detect and install the correct ones from Windows Update :)
The printer is fully compatible with Mac and Windows as advertised Quite honestly, it is compatible with ANY system as you can put a print on an SD card and take it to the printer :). For clicing you just have to download the Mac version of your favourite slicer. Yeah, I agree it is a bit sneaky of Tron to do this, but it would mean needing to supply two SD cards, one Windows formatted, one Mac formatted, if they supplied the software. Guess that's what we get with a cheap CoreXY printer.
The Auto Leveling before each print is set in the Start GCode of the printer profile by adding G29 after your G28 homing command. This can be added to any printer profile and is quite easy in Cura and most slicers. TronXY provide Cura with the printer, just skinned with TronXY branding, so setting the profile correctly will be virtually identical as "vanilla" Cura. The Profile that TronXY provided for the printer back 3 years ago was really sloppy and needed a lot of tuning. I believe the new profile is a lot more tuned, but I would always manually tune for best results.
Excellent instructional video,,, Just goes to show that being patient and understanding the process makes a big difference in having either negative or positive results..... I see that you take your time to examine why things perform the way they do, and work out the solution instead of complaining..... I learned a lot about building this printer out...... Thanks .........
I bought the same printer through Amazon in 2021, and I agree that the build process is extensive. But the final printer is worth the effort, in my estimation; i really like it. Congrats on a great video!
I just have the X5SA Mid 2019 edition, and it has been an awesome printer. getting really nice prints out of it
Being new to 3D printing and having bought this printer in the black Friday sales for £200. Your video has saved me a lot of probably missteps I would have made. Excellent video, really very clearly made and narrated. Have subscribed and will look at your other videos. Thank you.
X5SA Pro a few months ago in the DIY version which increased build-time, but it made a big difference when I have to diagnose an issue.
I am very pleased with the results of my build and the machine itself. I spent a couple of months looking into various machines and settled on the X5SA due to a variety of reasons: most importantly is linear rails. Rubber wheels running inside of the extruded aluminum was out.; I like the size and I can make modifications.; I like that the X-axis has a limited amount of movement.; while I was skeptical about belts vs lead screws, I'm fairly impressed with them, thus far.
I have some experience with cnc milling as well as some programming skills, (not a ton, but more than the average individual. I am familiar with G-code).
I completed the build, squared the frame, levelled the bed, and homed everything. It wasn't too difficult, as long as one follows the instructions.
A few test runs and some adjustments, and I had my 20mm x 20mm square. Not too bad. Then...
A few days later the wire guide, my biggest complaint, got caught on something while I was homing the machine. It was enough to knock the whole machine out of whack.
I decided to purchase corner brackets, 16, .0625" rubber sheets, rubber washers, zero backlash nuts, and made adjustable feet for leveling the machine.
My main goal is to remove as much vibrations as possible. For instance, while watching your video I noticed the machine shaking as a result of the xy movements. It is not a reflection of your build skills, rather the size and type of machine, and that is one reason that I am using corner brackets.
I am making rubber gaskets the go between the bottom and top of each vertical aluminum piece. This includes where the corner brackets touch the base and vertical piece. I cut 2 gaskets to fit under the stepper motor mounts, as well as the top pieces that have the pillow block, and attachment points for the lead-screw and 8mm bed guides. The frame has been isolated. When I removed the 2 pillow blocks I noticed that bearings were not properly seated, and I am skeptical about the quality of the blocks.
I'm watching your video about the Saphire Pro and I like hot the top frame is designed.
Aluminum is a material that vibrates more than other metals. Based on a small amount of 'research' I learned that cast iron vibrates less than aluminum.
I am looking into creating a base for my machine. It can't be too robust due to being in my home vs a garage.
Ideally, I would like to build a frame similar to the Saphire Pro, except out of cast iron. Also, instead of simply bolting it all back together, the cast iron frame connect directly to the base. I am trying to create a set-up that is extremely rigid, but not as robust as a milling machine.
Picture something similar to a Bridgeport, except a 3d printer. Lol.
I just attempted to shake my machine and it is pretty damn solid. And I am not even close to the half-way point of putting it back together. I'm also looking into the motherboard and firmware. I don't like the motherboard set-up, especially the drivers.
It's pretty obvious that I like over-kill. The goal is to reduce vibrations and any other types of unwanted movements.
I will try to find my response in the future and update it. I am hoping to start a conversation, and I am looking for constructive criticism.
Thank you, Just Vlad, your video got me thinking about some good stuff.
Thanks, Adam.
I bought this as my first 3d printer. So far, having no other experience, I am happy with it, though I get some failures here and there, which may be me messing with slicer settings, and also may be filament not dry enough. I did have to disassemble the hot end assembly to fix the roller bearings. Otherwise, it works fine, and I am learning.
I truly admire your work. Learned a lot from your videos.
Great job, keep them coming :)
There is very little chance, I would be able to put this printer together without our video. Thank you so much for doing this.
Great video, appreciate the time and effort. Helped me waaaay more than the manual that came with mine LOL
Just got my printer and your video made the much easier. And Printer works with no issues :)
Thank you for the detailed assembling guide! !
Great job, nice to see someone that knows mechanical assembly. Thanks for the video.
A great help for the desiphering of the build! Cheers, Mate.
Nice Video! Looking forward to the upgrades and fixes Vid.
Thanks so much for this vid. I just grabbed one of these and looked threw the manual that I downloaded and couldn't make sense out of half of it. But with this I can figure it out thanks.
this is the best review for this printer, yes but just to note if people interested with this they need to know the bed heats upto 85C but can upgrade the power supply to make it upto 110 or 120C, the hot end and extruder heats to 260C can upgrade to make it full metal if needed 300C +, last can make it easy enclosed as all parts outside the box, ah and to make it more stable can print corners support or install metal corners to hold the squire (change the belts to high quality rubber belts) so its awesome printer and can be easily upgraded :)
Good job, I watched reviews on two other build-review videos and they had all kinds of issues with getting it working. This was 2019 I believe so maybe they have addressed the problems they had. Thanks
Excellent unboxing/setup video! Also, a bit of fan noise is a godsend for those of us with tinnitus. 😄
Due to all the install and construction I'd say this is one not really for beginners looking for a first time printer. More of an experienced user type. It looks pretty solid though. Thanks for sharing.
I have this exact same printer from Amazon. All the components and build problems were exactly the same I had (chain mounting and motor pulley alignment). I did disable ABL and put in a mirror bed. The buildtak beds stick too well, as you experienced with your rocket. But it's a nice printer.
Great video, keep them coming.👍🇺🇸
Thank you so much for this video, now i am going to buy one of these :)
You missed the most important step. Buy some aluminimum corner braces for the 2020 extrusions and get the frame perfectly square before you do anything else. It looks like the frame is flexing as you are working on it. You may be printing just fine until you move it and it goes out of square. Really, this is the most important mod you can make.
Thanks , was a tricky start but I got it!
Thanks so much for this video. You are awesome. Super thorough
Good video. Yes the bowden tube is too long. Cut it. Also it didn't do a bed level, it just homed z. Either do a bed level from the menu before printing or put the G29 auto bed level command in your slicers starting g-code. Make sure to put it after any homing command.
Thank you, it was very helpful and more comfortable to watch than to use the manual :)
Thanks for the great video. I had followed along step-by-step with you and experienced the same issues, including the bed frame. I was lost on how to resolve it but I think I figured it out. Anyway. Thank you for a great and incredibly helpful video. Left to my own devices this would have taken days to complete!
Hello, thank you for a great instructional video. One quick question, how is the Z axis off set worked out? It looks like after leveling the print bed, the printer senses and sets its own Z height? If so, I assume this is set in printer's firmware and it can be altered from the lcd screen menu? What Z off set did you use? Thanks again for a great vid. Plan to purchase via Amazon, but you don't have the printer on your page?
I wish I could give 5 thumbs up! By far the most informative Iv'e found on our printer. We had the exact issues, I corrected them accordingly and my prints are excellent! Upgrading to dual colors next week!:-)
Well mine wasn't hot enough eventhough I adjusted it and it just wasn't sticking on the glass
Best installation video here on this model. I am thinking to order one. Was thinking of 400 model. But I think this size is better.
Got the X5SA-400 24V like a month ago. Just planning to upgrade it to the linear guides as well. Overall its a nice printer in that price section. the size u get depends on the model size ur planning to print. for me, the 330 bed was a bit too small for one project, so i decided on the 400 model. but i guess in 90% of the prints, the smaller version is fine. if ur installing corner brackets and belt tensioners, its a decent printer. the limit is always time. tip: if u got the mid 2019 version, install the filament holder and extruder to the back of the printer as well. with shorter length of the bowden, u get more accurate results and the extruder has less work (over- and underextrusion)
I have this printer since october last year! It is very good and work nicely, done some uprades and its been printing daily ever since
Cant wait to see how you would design the enclosure on this one. I will be looking forward to that 😀
how fast do you print reliably
@@user-ci4fh7ts8m done alot of upgrades now, control board and extruder. Movement generally the same. TMC2209s control the steppers.
Generally print at 100mm/s flow up to 25 to 30 cubes of material flow. 0.8 nozzle and 0.6 nozzle
Great job Vlad! I love your style of videos! You need to do a Delta! SeeMeCnc Delta! Rostock V4
Hello :) what slicer and what slicer settings did you use for your own prints?
My newer model X5SA (non pro) arrives Friday looking forward to it. only differences I'm seeing is a few more nonmetal brackets and the XY are running off Delrin v bearing in the aluminum extrusions.
A surprisingly good printer. I already have a couple of thousand hours on it, including very big prints. However, for TPU it really needs direct extruder. It is good even for some engineering stuff.
Thank you for this video, I bought a X5SA Pro and with your video I had my printer assembled in under 2 hours. Fantastic!
The base is removable, hence the blue office paper binders holding the black flexible piece to the bed. Simply remove the blue clips and flex it until the piece breaks loose.
Hi Vlad, thx for the excellent review. Would torque shock absorbers on the motor mounts and frame corner brackets to stiffen the frame reduce the vibrations to the print head to get a better finish?
thank you alot my man ! you saved me alot of time =)
The antenna always comes off that dang rocket. 😄
Great video man! I'm going to get my X5SA Pro delivered tomorrow. It's going to be my first 3D printer. I saw both good and bad reviews and figured by now they have improved it quite a bit so I decided to go for it. One question though. Do you think the way you put the filament tube through the cable organizer will cause some extra friction? I'm just wondering if I should do the same. It looks very neat that way though.
How was your experience as a beginner? Would you recommend it?
Just bought one and had it delivered, so here we go...
How hard was the build for you?
@@Willsmokalot Not very hard I'd say it took about 1.5-2 hours. I used a small weak electric screwdriver. The manual is good and easy to follow and you have the video. I'd never assembled or used a 3D printer.
Great video! Thank you very much, I got the same model. But I have some trouble with the Z axis, I am still trying to figure it out with your video!
What program did you use to slice? Or did you just use the included tronxy slicer?
Great video as all ways 👍
ONe thing I see is that Tronxy took into account the cable management and supplied a cable chain....unlike the Creality 5 which has some tangling issues.
Hey
Tahn you for the great video!
I bought me the X5SA-2E (two color printer).
Your video helpt me very much.
Good job :-)
Greetings from germany
Werner
Did you got It working properly after following the steps on this video or had other problems? Was able to print anything properly after assemble?
Thanks, I just ordered one from amazon after watching this video. I should get it tomorrow and I'm very excited. Btw cura says that there's a X5ST version too. Do you know what the difference is?
Just ordered this -- any particular upgrades you recommend doing during the build? Other videos mention quiet a few for the standard X5S 12v model. Curious how this has worked longer term?
I know this is 3 years ago, but did you work out the screw they said not to tighten is a "positioning" screw, that is meant to align the pulley if they are not sitting quite square so the belts stay aligned :).
I am currently researching a replacement for my Ender 5, which led me to this video. I had to make a decision, replace all the parts on the ender 5, spending several hundred dollars in the process, or just get a different printer that has a coreXY design already. Given my Ender 5 has several faults developed, and I don't need a high capacity / high production content, the TronXY looked like a good option.
How is the wire gage this time? I think on previous models you mentioned the wiring getting warm.
I ordered this Pro version, still waiting for shipping. As you mentioned, I am just wondering do you have any upgrade in mind to make bed more stable on Z axis from tilting it unwanted push on the bed?
Vlad, thanks for the post. I just received my X5SA-400 Pro with the ChiTu board and I can get the presliced 20mm cal cube to print but anything i slice gouges the print bed. Would you please be so kind as to post your Cura machine gcode and also if you are using OctoPrint, your profile setting there?
Love ur vids
do you have any cura profiles to get started with? i am waiting for mine to come in and its not easy finding cura files.
What did you use for retraction settings on your benchy prints?
Question are you earthed, as static discharge will blow the micro chips and then nothing works same as a pc internals, as replacing parts in a pc you need to be earthed to take the static charge all away, otherwise each part you touch could be overloadd by large static discharge, why do you think theres labels saying do not remove cover or break label, to ensure no one pokes their fingers all around the sensitive electronics ?
Great video! What slicer did you use for it?
Been trying to order this printer for over a month now but no one in China is working due to the virus and who knows if they'll ever start shipping again so now I'm looking into alternatives . I'm thinking of the Two Trees Sapphire Pro, the Longer LK4 Pro, or going the diy route and building a Voron core xy from scratch . With the first two options I'll lose on the build plate size but if I go with the Voron I can get most of the parts locally within a few days except for the 3d printed parts . I have no idea how I can get my hands on them since I don't know anyone with a 3d printer . I've got a budget of $700 ish but that includes shipping and import fees. I'm located in Colombia in South America . Any advice or suggestions will be greatly appreciated .
I ordered mine from 3dprinters online store, not saying I recommend it, but it shipped from USA, and even though it took Tronxy like 5 days to ship it, it arrived in like 3 or 4 days from that, I believe I had the printer within 10 days after I ordered it. USA warehouse appears out of stock, but you can order from Germany warehouse, that may be only way to get it.
Tbh I’d just roll up the belts and zip tie it no reason in my option to cut it can you explain why you cut other then convince is it a thing I actually need to do or would it be fine to roll it up and zip tie?
hi, wich setting do you have in cura for this printer? i have the same and when i slice with cura and after i print , the object is really bad . Which setting do you have for goods printing?
thanks
3 years later, how is it holding up? Can you run octoprint on it? what kind of maintenance have you had to perform?
Some issues
1. The machine wasn't hot enough eventhough I adjusted it.
2. The plastic wouldn't stick on the glass
Please help me
@Just Vlad Would you say that this printer has any significant edge over the Longer LK5 pro you reviewed? (Other than the 30 mm difference)
just received my x5sa-400 pro and the cable chain is also backwards i came here trying to figure it out, i will go try your solution
I have ZERO experience with 3d printers and I'm thinking about getting this unit. I'm fairly handy with tool in general, build PCs and fix electronic, installed my own heat pump, fix cars, ect. I guess I'm a bit nerdy...
So what do you think? Is this a decent printer or should I be looking at something with better community support like an Ender?
BTW, if you had to own just one printer, would be be a CoreXY, i3, or Delta type?
crabjoe I suggest you buy the Ender-3 first. I have both it and the Tronxy, plus a Delta printer as well.
The Ender-3 is much easier to get up and running, and produces great results for small prints. Large printers are always more prone to mechanical problems than small printers are. Working around these problems takes a lot of patience and knowledge, and features like auto bed levelling can be a real pain to get working.
The Ender-3 doesn’t need auto bed levelling because the errors in the bed and frame are so much smaller, though I do recommend the magnetic bed for removing prints easily. I think I would suggest the standard Ender-3 with an aftermarket spring-steel magnetic bed (rather than the Ender 3 Pro I bought), plus the SKR Mini E3 upgrade board which is cheap and gives silent stepper motor drivers (it fitted straight in and worked without the need to recompile firmware etc., so was a really easy upgrade).
To actually answer the question - If I had to own just one of the three types you mention, it would be the Ender-3 (i3) :)
My Anycubic Kossel Delta is faster, looks great when it’s running, good-quality hardware, can run with bigger or smaller nozzles for speed or detail, but has limited build area, and Deltas can be a complete pain to get working in the first place.
My Ender-3 is the most reliable, easiest to get working, and the hardware is very good quality (smooth and precise), the small bed heats quickly with 24V, but printing is generally a bit slow, doesn’t seem to like bigger or smaller nozzles, and the moving mass also counts against the speed, so it cannot be made to go faster.
My Tronxy, the earlier version of the X5sa, has always been incredibly unreliable. The hardware of the earlier version was really poor quality, but this has been improved in this Pro version. However, they don’t appear to have addressed printing speed, which is a factor for large prints that these machines are capable of. I have built my Tronxy with a direct extruder and a Volcano hotend with 0.8 nozzle. All the mechanical parts for this - hotend carriage, y-gantry, and even the large pulleys (for smoother running) were printed on my other two printers. I still have reliability problems with the warped bed and the right side dropping, plus my extruder seems to give rough results, but at least I have a faster printer now. I’m considering this new version as I still have problems with my v-slot wheels from time to time, and 24v would be nice (earlier X5sa is 12v and slow to heat up, no silent stepper drivers either). But I’m nervous about going back to the long Bowden tube setup that gave me so much trouble with clogs and gaps in prints/stringing. My other two printers are also Bowden setups but never had the problems that my Tronxy had.
Hope this helps!
I have the 2020 model of the X5SA printer,
Mine one must be a bad faulty printer as I can't get it to level the bed right either using auto leveling or manual.
I tried so many try's to get it to work and even had the newest firmware sent to me from Tronxy and still it won't level right.
I spent hour even doing the leveling and still no luck. On my box it had written "Customer Return"
I told Tronxy when I saw this after the delivery and they stated hat was just a reused box?
I now think I got a returned bad machine! ( they just told me it was just the box to get that sale money )
I wish now I researched more online looking at more build and testing 3D printer videos and brought a better working machine?
I did print two good prints but had to stand there and watch the printing and keep manually adjusting the bed to get the hot end to work level wise.
But overall this mach is crap.
I now saving up for a better printer, like the much reviewed Creality Ender 3 V2 printer, yes it has a smaller than mine bed size and height of build.
But it works well, mine don't even level right.
WHAT EVER YOU ALL DO, DON'T BUY A TRONXY X5SA PRINTER THEY ARE CRAP.
While this product is good, I myself is not good at and incline in assembling this whole thing. I hope there's a pre-build version because this one is very good as far as price and product size is concern.
By the way, first I watched your video before I bought the g29 steering wheel. And it looks like I have to watch several video of yours as well just before I'm gonna buy my first printer. I wanna try this new hobby but I'm looking for around 300mm+(in length) product size.
- New subscriber.
Did you get a level print bed? mine has failed and failed every print halfway through to the point i'm returning it to amazon as if I was to do a full box on the print bed, part of it would adhere on one side, then it would fail going towards middle, then it would stick on the middle , and work, then maybe in a top corner it would fail but bottom corner work
Despite my ABL reporting I was 0.1 tolerance in all points.
What website do you guys get your files from? Any help would be appreciated for this noob starter lol.
Im just now considering getting a 3d printer and I've come across this option in amazon for around ~330 usd.
1- is it worth it? Most reviews are kinda negative
2- can it really deliver good print quality?
I want it mostly as a tool. Tinkering is fine, but I rather have it be able to be given a file and be sure I can leave and come back to my thing done with minimal setup.
Why I'm interested in this? First, for what I've seen, the corexy builds often offer better quality on their printing, 2dly, I really would like to have the 33cm*33*40 build volume. The typical 20*20cm seems a bit tiny.
Don't waste your money on this, get a Sidewinder X2
I have the 2 extruder version. It has some quality issues, like cables being too short. How do I get the print to stick to the glass?
Hey Vlad! Plz review the Anycubic 4 max pro, if u search around u can often find it as low as 299$
Very comprehensive video, this looks like an improvement over the previous iterations. The original X5S didn't even have eccentric nuts so it was very sloppy. I don't entirely trust Tronxy as their quality control is generally pretty awful. I think you were lucky getting the right parts.
what app or software can use with this printer?
Hey!
i now own this Printer too.
I like the mashine but one thing that wonders me is that it almost looks like its not reaching the full speed.
The times of my prints after slicing are only half the time the printer actually needs to print.
do you have the same issue ?
best regards
that's normal
Yes, happily I found the answer to this one! Search for ‘Chitu gcode settings’ - there are acceleration and jerk settings inside the X5sa’s Chitu board that are not available from the touchscreen. You set them by making a text file, saving it with a .gcode extension, and ‘print’ the file to make the settings. My predicted time in the slicer matches now, because the acceleration and jerk match the settings in the slicer. I use the CR-10 machine type in Cura. Cheers
At 42:44 you talk about leveling the frame how did you do that?
I just my Pro this week, should get it in a month....How is your unit? Do you think they improved it since it;'s release?
How was it?
@@Willsmokalot took it apart an went ender 5plus. I found the X5sa is over priced thats all. More of a kit than RTG printer. Fit & Finish on the Ender 5 sells it. I find tronxy has to catch up with the other machines, when they do lets see what they put out!
Does this take the MK8 nozzle or something else?
How does this compare to the tevo tornado?
How many watts does it consume per an hour on average ?
I hope Tronxy will add some better solution than the micro SD cards to load the print files.
My SD slot has already broken down and does not like to hold the cards so I have to hold them in with a piece of tape - after some ten prints. Why do they not use an onboard memory card you can load by USB, and then print from this ? My old and trusty Dremel 3D20 has way over 4700 hours done by now, and the USB connection is still working great! I could imagine a WIFI data transfer too, these things are getting cheaper every day. So why not give us users this comfort? Other than that I am quite happy with the quality all over. One thing I am going to try - a massive 5cm concrete plate as a base under the printer to get a higher stability.
MAKE SURE YOUR LINEAR GUIDES HAVE BRASS BUSHINGS INSTEAD OF PLASTIC!!! Just started assembling mine, and it came with plastic. Apparently, anything that comes directly from tronxy, plastic, but amazon gets the good ones that all pro models are SUPPOSED to come with. And haven't heard back yet, but I think there were more acrylic parts in older kits. Mine does have a few, the x and y stepper mounts are acrylic and maybe the bearing plates on top. They're definitely not metal, or of they are, the finish is like matte glass.
Can you please help me out? I was setting the level with manual setting like you did but when we tried the auto it went over the clip and broke the clip off... can you please tell me how to exactly bring the bed closer to the printer needle?
from what i've learned people tweaking Z offset first, checking it with paper or 0.1-0.5mm feeler gauge, then setting this point as 0, and after that doing auto calibration.
Can you give me the exact measurement of the frame in ft.
How long does the bed takes to heat up?
man the blue film on bed are not just a protection film, this is a
heat transfer film...
it should not be removed
Tronxy printers are stupid cheap with a lot of features but a lot of reviews report issues with them. I think if they could go that extra inch with the build plate, frame rigidity & belt tensioning with the quality control they might be onto a winner.
How were you able to adjust your pulleys to keep the belt from riding and down?
I also want to know. Not a major issue, butI would like to fix it.
Those extra bolts at 18:36 are probably for adjusting the tilt/angle of the front pulleys?
What printer would you guys recommend for a beginner ? Something not too simplistic , I wanna grow into it if that makes sense
I started on an anet a8 but i wouldnt recommend it. it looks like a fire hazard compared to new stuff today lol. the ender 3 is a great starter. its simple but still a kit to help show you how everything works and you can get some really good quality prints along with a very large community of people willing to help. depends on the details you want though like build volume or style of printer. My only advice is to not start on a delta style. i had one in the beginning and a hell of a time getting it to work.
I got one of theez but i don’t understand how to put it together
Every time i hit the home button or try to level it the print head keeps moving all the way to the right front, making the Z axis stop sensor move off the print bed so the bed doesn't stop when homing upward. Any advise or help?
Off the top of my head... Your description does not make sense if you're looking at the printer from the front. The x sensor is on the left and the y is front towards you. When it homes... It first goes to the x (left) then to the y (forward). After that it homes to the middle.
Also sounds possibly like your z rods are not properly attached.
Are you sure the layers on the bed need to be taken off? The manual doesnt say so
I left them on with no problem, but perhaps if you were using ABS it would pose an issue with head transfer. I'll find out when I try the PETG filament I have lying around. (Waiting for 0.8mm nozzle first).
cura settings for this machine? any mods?
I have your TRONXY X5SA machine.
The machine works very quietly and thanks to it I can print large models.
However, the machine has a strange nature of work when printing the model.
It
starts slowly, accelerates then slows down to a stop. Extruder Adds
filament and again the machine starts slowly, accelerates then slows
down to a stop. In the place of adding the filament after stopping, a
thickening arises.
Such machine
operation results in a 40% elongation of the printout. Please let me
know how you can move the machine so that it works normally without the
so-called "Dance".
DRON adjust acceleration by creating a configuration gcode. Look up “chitu gcode settings”
Thank you for making this! The in box directions were not at all helpful. Also, great job detailing each step. Would’ve taken forever to get the bed leveled without this.
As Far as I am concerned TEVO are crooks, they took my money on aliexpress, pretended to post my printer and gave me a false DHL tracking number, then no further communication. Luckily I got my money back from Aliexpress and am going to get this Tronxy. Hopefully the coronavirus shut down wont delay this printer to long :(
Your vid Will be a great help thanks.