This is a prime example why I love your videos Scott. Most people would've filmed a 5 min vid saying ""plugged in diagnostic tool, found fault, replaced component" but with yours you take the time to explain the possible causes of the symptom adn whilst your implementing the repair you cover everything else in the vicinity too. Keep up the good work...your channel is fast becomming the TH-cam bible for the FL2/LR2!
Can I just say your explanation of the problem and solution has saved my life. My car experienced near identical symptoms and having read a load of misleading threads, your video was like a beacon in the dark. The car broke down the day before my mother experienced a stroke and the £31 sensor has allowed me to get from Oxford to Somerset half an hour after jacking the car up. Thank you very much, an absolute life saver.
Ive been trying to isolate the very same issue now for over a year. Took it into an official Landy Dealer and they said no faults were indicated. Then drove over to Freelander Specialist Methworth Norfolk to get my rear differential changed and they discovered the fault with the 'Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor - circuit malfunction' - Having discovered your video I feel confident to tackle the job of getting a replacement fitted. Many thanks for posting these detailed helpful videos which I know take hours to produce. 👍🏼
Thank you so much for this! I've been experiencing the exact same symptoms (lurching, coughing, reduced engine performance, engine cut off with no restart till a few minutes later) - ran a diagnostic test and had crankshaft sensor along with diesel intake airflow sensor errors (P0335-00, P0336-00, P0691-11, P0380-00, P02E0-13, P02E1-00, P02E9-73) This video gave me confidence that others experienced similar symptoms with their Freelander 2s and found a solution 💪🏼
Thank you Scott. Just had the same symptoms on our way to a funeral. RAC called out, mechanic spookily has the exact LR2 as ours. Ran a diagnostic which showed a few errors but not the crankshaft sensor however, same symptoms no diagnostic showing the crank sensor but replaced his and problem solved. Just ordered the part and will have a go myself!
Mine did exactly the same thing, coughed on loads for a few weeks and stopped and restarted it again a few times until finally wouldn't start again. Tried the sensor but it was actually the captor for the sensor. Thanks for the video
Our vehicles may have synced :-) Wife driving this morning. Car cranked but wouldn't start. Then it started just once and cut out while driving.... dangerous! I was thinking crank sensor after a bit of investigation... and then there was your video! One thing I would add, I think it is true: when your car cranks but wont start it is the crank sensor if the revs don't show up on the instrument panel. On my FL2 the cranking revs don't register so even though my symptoms are a bit different, I'm pretty sure it is the sensor.
I got my local garage to do my timing belt for me as it is quite a major job. I had mine done at 100k miles but check the interval for your car as earlier/later models vary. Petrol/diesel may also differ. No harm in getting it done early for peace of mind.
Hah, been there! Ours started to play up taking ages to start. Made a huge miss-diagnosis (as it was winter) and replaced my glow plugs, not too expensive but a bit of a bugger to get to. Soul destroying when it didn't fix the issue, it was taking about 15 minutes of start-stop to get mine going but....new sensor...new car! Also replaced the cam and air temp sensors as they were cheap. Keep up the good work, nice to see the Freebie 2 represented.😃. P.s. ours didn't show any codes on any reader.
Glad you got yours fixed in the end and also glad to hear it isn’t just me having these issues. My car is running much better with the new sensor, smoother and starts easier so I think I was having similar issues to you. I also have a cam sensor so will change that too at some point. Thanks for the positive feedback!
@@BeavisPits no probs, cam is a bit more involved, you need to remove the inlet pipe, breather pipe and make sure the sensor is at the correct depth but not too bad. Got the oil change Saturday, such fun getting to the filter with all the stuff in the way
Crank sensors often start working again when they cool down a bit after you have been stationary for a while after breaking down, then the car will restart and run for a bit before overheating again......this is why spraying brake cleaner on them if you have some in the car can freeze them as it evaporates, this might allow you to carry on your journey enough to get it fixed, or drive it somewhere safer.... or even get home if your lucky.
Very nice explanation. Were you battling to start when hot and cold? I've got an issue with my FL2 where it doesn't want to start when hot, no faults have been logged
Mine was jerking under acceleration. Sounds like your fuel filter thermostatic valve is sticking open. I did a video on this. It could also be your crank sensor failing when hot, that can happen.
@ I'm thinking it's either the crank or cam sensor, I've done the fuel filter three times with one from Land Rover and not a generic. The crank sensor was replaced last year with an OEM part. Just seems odd a new part would fail so soon (though not unheard of). It's also got no power when she's hot
Good luck with fixing it. If it isn’t the crank or cam sensor, then look at the fuel temperature sensor and then fuel pressure sensor. Definitely sounds like fuel delivery is not adjusting correctly as the engine heats up. A decent code reader will help to pinpoint the cause.
Had the same issue a few weeks ago - removed the crank pos sensor and cleaned it thoroughly and refitted - ordered a replacement from LR but in the meantime all was fine again, fitted the new one from LR (£104!) and car refused to start so put the old cleaned up one back and all has been fine since. Took the LR one back, got a replacement from Euro Car Parts (£30) just in case, and am still on the old one which to date seems fine - flaming disconcerting when the car originally cut out tho, luckily it was me driving and not the missus 😁
Nick, this is exactly what I was talking about when I said the new part could be faulty. Glad to hear you are still going on the old cleaned up one. Hopefully my video has shown you how easy it is to change, should your old sensor give up completely. I too bought a sensor from ECP a few years ago. Carried it around in the glove box all this time just in case! So glad I had one ready to swap. Was tempted to do it at the side of the road but it wasn’t safe and I managed to get it started again. If you ever get round to fitting your new sensor, please leave a follow-up comment here to let us know if it worked.
Yep, will be carrying the spare sensor in the car just in case - having taken the old sensor in and out three times now, it really is a doddle to do but as you say would be tricky at the roadside. Keep up the vids. These really are the most underrated LR’s 👍
I've sealed stuff like that with a finger cut off one of your gloves! Cut the finger off, nip a tiny hole in the finger tip and gently pull the finger/hole over the connector up and over the wires. It normally pinches the wires, but you can add a little cable tie here as well. Then roll the finger back down onto the top of the connector and once plugged in, roll it down over the whole thing, pretty much like a condom :-) The tougher mechanic gloves are best, the regular latex ones aren't strong enough :-)
Evening mate cracking video,the other cause of not starting but comes up with a crabk sensor fault is the wiring fractures on the wiring that enters the plug or the last 6in of wire, I have had a crank sensor changed but still played up so new wiring was replaced about 12in long and it has been great since
I recently changed my oil cooler and for what ever reason the car after that wouldn't accelerate. My actual mechanic got it to start and cleaned up what the inexperienced mechanic didn't do which was flush the system and the lines. After that the Freelander ran pretty good for one day and then the low coolant indicator would stay on even though we had coolant in and the engine started over heating and cutting off. The mechanic told us to change the radiator cap but I most believe that it's also a crankshaft position sensor as well. Waiting for the radiator cap and sensor to reach but do you think I should also replace the crankshaft position sensor as well?
You may have more than one fault here. The crankshaft sensor won’t cause overheating or low coolant alerts, but may be to blame for it not running right and cutting out. A decent code reader is your friend.
Had the same problem for a few years ignored as it wasn't a problem until recently, as she only acted up first start on a cold and frosty morning in the driveway (had to be decent negative temperatures) second or third attempt would fire up and run as normal for next twelve months approximately extremely intermittently. Came up with numerous fault codes that weren't faults as items working, after clearing codes crank sensor came up. Changed the sensor but there's now a slight engine miss (one short hiccup for a second) under load. On a fifty mile journey may do it once or twice tends to be on motorway only. Will have to have another look see what comes up.
Crank sensor will cause violent jolts until acceleration. Slight flutter under load is more likely to be a fueling issue…fuel filter, fuel pressure or blocked injectors.
@@BeavisPits I have a 2008 I was driving it a lost performance on me and then it cut out as it was moving and it will not start since I'm trying to locate where is the crank position and sensor and I cannot find it if you can please help me
very concise , looked for simple solution to problem , found it ,applied it , problem resolved ; good approach thanks. Question if crankshaft sensor fails can that stop the glow plugs from activating and subsequently stop the fuel injectors from activating .
Glad to hear my video was helpful, thanks Peter. Not sure about the glowplugs but the fuel injectors almost certainly won’t run if the engine can’t work out its speed or position.
Scott. To seal it, you could have "molded" some Plasticine around. It will go hard, but, easy enough to remove if you need to change it again. Just a tip mate 👍
I got the Autel MaxiAP200 OBD reader, £50 from Amazon when I got it and that pointed out straight away fault was CPS. I also have the red one shown in the video naturally that showed no faults.
I would recommend Autel AP200 Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner Code Reader, I've just upgraded from the same reader you have and this new one is 100% better. finds & reads more codes etc.
@@BeavisPits your welcome .. have a read up on it, well worth it, codes cars key too, I had an ABS fault old one didn't say much, the new one pined it down to front RHS wheel sensor .. turn out to be a worn cable on the sensor…
Lol my FL2 did something very similar just now. Stalled it twice when doing a 3 point turn and it started automatically which is weird because I've very rarely stalled this car. Got onto the main road and oil and battery light came on but car was still running. Was bucking like crazy. Eventually cut out and wouldn't start as I was coasting. Pulled over, unplugged the battery and it started first time. Didn't get a chance to do any real diagnostics as I was in a rush to get home. I'm hoping it's going to be the same issue as yours?
If you have the stop-start model, then it should restart automatically after a stall. It can become a hindrance though as your automatic reaction is to go for the starter button which then aborts the restart and doesn’t start the car until he press it again. I’ve stalled a couple of times and it has been quite embarrassing pressing the button over and over to try and get the thing to start cranking while other cars are sitting there waiting. Good luck with the sensor diagnosis.
@@BeavisPits It did try to automatically restart but just couldn't catch. It was really weird though. Was turning a corner and the power steering immediately cut out, oil pressure came on then it all came back and then finally cut off and wouldn't start again, either manually or automatically. Just took the car for a little run and it was perfect again. Want to get the problem addressed though. Don't want to risk driving it far or on the motorway.
Do they do large diameter shrink wrap maybe last a little longer then the tape and once heated would seal tightly around the plug top. Great video as always
Thanks for the video! I have a 2014 SD4 XS and for some reason just cruising at say 60 or 70 km/hr the RPM drops to around 1300-1400 RPM and there is a rumbling/juddering vibration at the RHS drivers footwell and the only way I can get past that RPM that causes that vibration (resonance?) is to accelerate to 2000 RPM and hope the vehicle settles in the required speed at a slightly higher RPM. The indie I take my vehicle to says the CPS sometimes fails without any fault signal...or is that RPM drop a a torque converter slipping (don't know what that feels or sounds like) or the CPS?
@@BeavisPits thanks for the prompt response. Appreciate it! Yes, it often does happen under acceleration at which time I have to floor the pedal to get it to 'wake up'. As for the turbocharge guide vane actuator I guess I will have to get the vehicle scanned for any faults. I only have the vehicle 8 months now. I cleaned the intercooler the weekend past and checked the intercooler hose on the discharge side and appeared to be the Jubilee clamp...no split in the hoses. I checked it due to oil leaking at the plastic flange on the intercooler AND there is an irritating 'wooing' noise at slow speeds just driving down the driveway and at suburb speeds (60-70km/hr)...sounds like a vacuum noise in the distance, but it's driving me crazy.
Same thing happened to me this evening, cutting out briefly a couple of times then stopped completely, restarting after around 5 minutes. Got the ten miles home with an occasional lurch. I've got a professional code reader which didn't show any fault codes , 1st step replace crank sensor. Video helpful for that will let you know how I get on!
@@BeavisPits have ordered sensor but with everything shut Monday for funeral, prob midweek before I get it. 70 year old triumph 5ta going to have to step up for the next few days !
@@BeavisPits new crank sensor fitted and now done over 50 miles without issue, so it appears to have been the crank sensor that was the problem. Once cover removed you can see how water would run down the harness into the back of the connector causing faults. I packed the back of the connector with petroleum jelly, to help waterproof it. So all I can say is well done and keep posting the videos.👍
Had the same issue recently a year after the same problem - RAC called out and actually found it was not the sensor itself but the female end of the connection on the end of the loom? Fixed for now. Now I have to find a replacement plug, LR will only sell the entire engine loom @ £500 so will have to dig around to solve the issue - maybe a salvage part and a professional auto electrician to graft on as I know the sensor is very sensitive to reading the current from ECU. Happy bludy days 😁
The sensor itself is actually quite reliable. As you have found, the weakest link is the connector which can get water in it and corrode. If I find a suitable replacement plug, I’ll let you know.
@@BeavisPits interestingly enough I think I’ve found a supplier and a replacement plug - identified as plug 211 PC 03 2 S 0 049 they have sent me a 3 Way Delphi SICMA 1.5 plug and female socket contacts - if I can get a good auto electrician to fit it and this actually works I’ll get back!
Another great vid and looks to be something that should perhaps be replaced if original? our FL2 is 70k miles 10 years old. Hoses being replaced so a good time to do this too. Seen GSF car parts do these for 25 quid, does a main brand / OEM part matter or should any crank sensor brand from an auto factors be ok?
I'm currently wheel off, inner arch removed, trying to unbolt the bolt. It's a 8mm head for me. It seems to be locked tight, can't get it to move and afraid of rounding it off. Any ideas?
The bolt which retains the sensor? Mine undid ok, can’t remember the size, but it is screwed into aluminium I think so my have reacted and got stuck. WD40 should help. Maybe a couple of light taps with a hammer to jolt the thread and break any oxide crystals which have formed.
@@BeavisPits yeah, the sensor bolt. I got it off, but a spanner wasn't going to do it. Socket did. Also I noticed where you put your jack stands, is that safe to do, as in won't damage the vehicle? I got the old sensor off, put on the new, Facet from GSF autofactors, car wouldn't start, just turned over. Had to put old sensor on and back to old problem of intermittent powerless and lumpy performance. Checked all the hoses today, no holes or issues on them
Axle stands are fine there. Either your new sensor is faulty (it can happen), or the fault lies in the wiring. The connector is usually the weak point, not the actual sensor itself. There is also a possibility that more than one sensor is available for the freelander 2, so make sure you’ve got the right one for your year. I bought mine from Euro Car Parts, I can’t remember the brand. Also try a battery disconnect to reset the engine management system.
@@BeavisPits Thanks for the response again. just taking the Facet sensor back. The old one works fine to start and run the car, so I doubt its the wiring. I'll make sure it was the right one for the right year/car and see what they say or if other options. I wasnt too happy using that place for the axel stands, as not sure its made to take the weight directly, but seemed ok. I also had to jack from the bolt where the subframe mounts, just behind where the axel stand went, as side bars and my homemade ramps are quite long and were in the way. but went ok. I'll try the batter disconnect too. I did do the soft reset for "learning" but Im not sure that did anything. Need the car for a long day round trip this week, but no confidence in it right now, will probably hire a car so dont get stranded somewhere. Frustrating issue to have.
I thought about this but a heatshrink tube would need to pass over the connector too, meaning it would be quite large diameter. This could let water in at the wire end which could then sit inside. I’ll see if I can get a wrap/tape type of heatshrink. I thought insulation tape tended to shrink and tighten over time. A proper watertight shield is the way forward.
Boa noite, o vídeo ajudou bastante a resolver o problema do meu freelander, o carro não passava das 2 mil rpm , ao vídeo descobri que tinha mau contacto no terminal da ficha do sensor da cambota, agradeço pelo vídeo.
That did cross my mind, but most of my mods are cosmetic and/or non-performance enhancing. There was a slim possibility that the air duct or K&N could have confused the ECU, but I discounted them as been happily driving around with those for a while with no issues. As soon as I felt the car lurch, I thought “crank sensor” as I’ve felt it do that before after wading.
Had to change this on my FL2 as well. Problem started with the odd engine cut-out when in traffic but these did not throw a code. Then, one day, I was behind a learner on a B road and decided to overtake - I just got past them and the engine cut out dead!. I pulled in front of the learner and put my hazards on and ground to a halt. I think the instructor thought I was being a c**K! The car immediately started and I headed home and this time had the Cranksahft Position code. Fitted a genuine part and all good since.
Sounds exactly the same. The issue only really shows when accelerating, which is very annoying and sometime even dangerous. I need to know that when I put my foot down it is going to go.
I had same problem, I also did same things. But my problem did not solve unfortunately. I brang my car repairman and he said The crank mile must be changed with diesel fuel pump. Afterthat my problem solved. But Thx for video. And now I have different problem. My car's steering wheel is vibrating when climbing, my repairman checked and he said it is because of shift torque converter. Now I am really sad because I don't know why this happened and does my gearbox also need replace, because he said torque converter generally damaged because of bad gearbox. :(( 2.2 td4 freelander 225.000 km
Mine is a manual gearbox, but if you join one of the Facebook groups and ask on there about gearbox power flushing then somebody will know and be able to advise you of what is required.
I did a video on the EGR blanking plate. I don’t have any plans to remove this or the EGR valve. It is a pain to get at as down the back of the engine so I’ll be letting sleeping dogs lie on that one.
Yeh, I would definitely change the crank sensor. That signal feeds the rev counter. Could be a faulty gauge but check the sensor first. Any lurching or fault codes?
Good video a bit long, just one thing though when you put the tape on the wiring it does nothing but trap water, there is no chafing and it will not stop an impact? It has been ok from new, if you suspect water is getting past the plug and wire seals you need to replace it, you can get a plug kit from main dealer or durite.
Hi Rick, my sensor has behaved perfectly since filming this video, although you’re not the first to mention about the tape trapping water. Next time I’m in the wheel arch I’ll remove the tape. I’m also working on a sealed housing to go over the connector. Possibly overkill but any extra protection can’t be a bad thing when wading.
Got the same with a Ford Kuga I have at the moment. No codes though. It is with a Ford dealers (purchased from a Kia dealer used) I have suggested it to them but heard nothing. Ideally I could do with them finding a fault so I can return the dam thing for a refund then go buy a FL2 :)
If mine and your Freelander were both female, I would say their "monthly cycles" are aligned. A short while after your video about the PTC heater, mine packed up. So I bet I can expect this to hit me in the not so distant future.
This is a prime example why I love your videos Scott. Most people would've filmed a 5 min vid saying ""plugged in diagnostic tool, found fault, replaced component" but with yours you take the time to explain the possible causes of the symptom adn whilst your implementing the repair you cover everything else in the vicinity too. Keep up the good work...your channel is fast becomming the TH-cam bible for the FL2/LR2!
Thanks Andrew! Great to hear feedback like that!
Can I just say your explanation of the problem and solution has saved my life. My car experienced near identical symptoms and having read a load of misleading threads, your video was like a beacon in the dark. The car broke down the day before my mother experienced a stroke and the £31 sensor has allowed me to get from Oxford to Somerset half an hour after jacking the car up.
Thank you very much, an absolute life saver.
Wow! Glad to have saved the day! May I screenshot this message for my instagram?
No problem
Ive been trying to isolate the very same issue now for over a year. Took it into an official Landy Dealer and they said no faults were indicated. Then drove over to Freelander Specialist Methworth Norfolk to get my rear differential changed and they discovered the fault with the 'Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor - circuit malfunction' - Having discovered your video I feel confident to tackle the job of getting a replacement fitted. Many thanks for posting these detailed helpful videos which I know take hours to produce. 👍🏼
This absolutely made me look like a proper man in front if my Mrs!! Smashing video mate
Thank you so much for this!
I've been experiencing the exact same symptoms (lurching, coughing, reduced engine performance, engine cut off with no restart till a few minutes later) - ran a diagnostic test and had crankshaft sensor along with diesel intake airflow sensor errors (P0335-00, P0336-00, P0691-11, P0380-00, P02E0-13, P02E1-00, P02E9-73)
This video gave me confidence that others experienced similar symptoms with their Freelander 2s and found a solution 💪🏼
Nice one! Glad my video was helpful!
Thank you Scott. Just had the same symptoms on our way to a funeral. RAC called out, mechanic spookily has the exact LR2 as ours. Ran a diagnostic which showed a few errors but not the crankshaft sensor however, same symptoms no diagnostic showing the crank sensor but replaced his and problem solved. Just ordered the part and will have a go myself!
Glad to hear my video was helpful!
Mine did exactly the same thing, coughed on loads for a few weeks and stopped and restarted it again a few times until finally wouldn't start again. Tried the sensor but it was actually the captor for the sensor. Thanks for the video
I haven't heard of "captor for the sensor" is this part of the crank pulley?
Matthew Riba it is where the sensor picks up the signal. I am in France so maybe has different names
Our vehicles may have synced :-) Wife driving this morning. Car cranked but wouldn't start. Then it started just once and cut out while driving.... dangerous! I was thinking crank sensor after a bit of investigation... and then there was your video! One thing I would add, I think it is true: when your car cranks but wont start it is the crank sensor if the revs don't show up on the instrument panel. On my FL2 the cranking revs don't register so even though my symptoms are a bit different, I'm pretty sure it is the sensor.
Hope you get it fixed soon. Does sound like the same issue.
@@BeavisPits Thanks. As our cars seem to be going through a journey together...have you changed your timing belt? Kit do do mine has just arrived.
I got my local garage to do my timing belt for me as it is quite a major job. I had mine done at 100k miles but check the interval for your car as earlier/later models vary. Petrol/diesel may also differ. No harm in getting it done early for peace of mind.
Thanks for posting great video got similar fault with my Freeby 2 hope to change it tomorrow , Your videos are always thorough and easy to understand
Thanks Paul, great to read feedback like this!
Hah, been there! Ours started to play up taking ages to start. Made a huge miss-diagnosis (as it was winter) and replaced my glow plugs, not too expensive but a bit of a bugger to get to. Soul destroying when it didn't fix the issue, it was taking about 15 minutes of start-stop to get mine going but....new sensor...new car! Also replaced the cam and air temp sensors as they were cheap. Keep up the good work, nice to see the Freebie 2 represented.😃. P.s. ours didn't show any codes on any reader.
Glad you got yours fixed in the end and also glad to hear it isn’t just me having these issues. My car is running much better with the new sensor, smoother and starts easier so I think I was having similar issues to you. I also have a cam sensor so will change that too at some point. Thanks for the positive feedback!
@@BeavisPits no probs, cam is a bit more involved, you need to remove the inlet pipe, breather pipe and make sure the sensor is at the correct depth but not too bad. Got the oil change Saturday, such fun getting to the filter with all the stuff in the way
Great timing on the video as just been looking round for a guide or video on replacing the crank sensor.
Thank you, your explanation is outstanding and excellent video, you helped me many times with my 2009 LR FL 2 TD4. Melbourne Au.
Crank sensors often start working again when they cool down a bit after you have been stationary for a while after breaking down, then the car will restart and run for a bit before overheating again......this is why spraying brake cleaner on them if you have some in the car can freeze them as it evaporates, this might allow you to carry on your journey enough to get it fixed, or drive it somewhere safer.... or even get home if your lucky.
Another brilliant video, easy to follow. Many thanks.
Thanks Colin!
Very nice explanation. Were you battling to start when hot and cold? I've got an issue with my FL2 where it doesn't want to start when hot, no faults have been logged
Mine was jerking under acceleration. Sounds like your fuel filter thermostatic valve is sticking open. I did a video on this. It could also be your crank sensor failing when hot, that can happen.
@ I'm thinking it's either the crank or cam sensor, I've done the fuel filter three times with one from Land Rover and not a generic. The crank sensor was replaced last year with an OEM part. Just seems odd a new part would fail so soon (though not unheard of). It's also got no power when she's hot
Good luck with fixing it. If it isn’t the crank or cam sensor, then look at the fuel temperature sensor and then fuel pressure sensor. Definitely sounds like fuel delivery is not adjusting correctly as the engine heats up. A decent code reader will help to pinpoint the cause.
Had the same issue a few weeks ago - removed the crank pos sensor and cleaned it thoroughly and refitted - ordered a replacement from LR but in the meantime all was fine again, fitted the new one from LR (£104!) and car refused to start so put the old cleaned up one back and all has been fine since. Took the LR one back, got a replacement from Euro Car Parts (£30) just in case, and am still on the old one which to date seems fine - flaming disconcerting when the car originally cut out tho, luckily it was me driving and not the missus 😁
Nick, this is exactly what I was talking about when I said the new part could be faulty. Glad to hear you are still going on the old cleaned up one. Hopefully my video has shown you how easy it is to change, should your old sensor give up completely. I too bought a sensor from ECP a few years ago. Carried it around in the glove box all this time just in case! So glad I had one ready to swap. Was tempted to do it at the side of the road but it wasn’t safe and I managed to get it started again. If you ever get round to fitting your new sensor, please leave a follow-up comment here to let us know if it worked.
Yep, will be carrying the spare sensor in the car just in case - having taken the old sensor in and out three times now, it really is a doddle to do but as you say would be tricky at the roadside. Keep up the vids. These really are the most underrated LR’s 👍
I've sealed stuff like that with a finger cut off one of your gloves! Cut the finger off, nip a tiny hole in the finger tip and gently pull the finger/hole over the connector up and over the wires. It normally pinches the wires, but you can add a little cable tie here as well. Then roll the finger back down onto the top of the connector and once plugged in, roll it down over the whole thing, pretty much like a condom :-)
The tougher mechanic gloves are best, the regular latex ones aren't strong enough :-)
Nice idea! Thanks!
Evening mate cracking video,the other cause of not starting but comes up with a crabk sensor fault is the wiring fractures on the wiring that enters the plug or the last 6in of wire,
I have had a crank sensor changed but still played up so new wiring was replaced about 12in long and it has been great since
What a fantastic video. I have the same problem and will replace the same part (Crankshaft Position Sensor) which I bought 2 years ago.
Thanks, hope it resolves the issue for you as well!
Thank you for this video a have the same problem with my freelander 2, this video is very clear! Good job
Brilliant really useful video. Thank you
Cracking video! have changed a few but this is a great demo! Nice one :)
Great!!!! Thanks, problem solved. Also bought the camshaft. But did not find where pos. Anyway. I can drive again!!!!!!!!!
I recently changed my oil cooler and for what ever reason the car after that wouldn't accelerate. My actual mechanic got it to start and cleaned up what the inexperienced mechanic didn't do which was flush the system and the lines. After that the Freelander ran pretty good for one day and then the low coolant indicator would stay on even though we had coolant in and the engine started over heating and cutting off. The mechanic told us to change the radiator cap but I most believe that it's also a crankshaft position sensor as well. Waiting for the radiator cap and sensor to reach but do you think I should also replace the crankshaft position sensor as well?
You may have more than one fault here. The crankshaft sensor won’t cause overheating or low coolant alerts, but may be to blame for it not running right and cutting out. A decent code reader is your friend.
Had the same problem for a few years ignored as it wasn't a problem until recently, as she only acted up first start on a cold and frosty morning in the driveway (had to be decent negative temperatures) second or third attempt would fire up and run as normal for next twelve months approximately extremely intermittently. Came up with numerous fault codes that weren't faults as items working, after clearing codes crank sensor came up. Changed the sensor but there's now a slight engine miss (one short hiccup for a second) under load. On a fifty mile journey may do it once or twice tends to be on motorway only. Will have to have another look see what comes up.
Crank sensor will cause violent jolts until acceleration. Slight flutter under load is more likely to be a fueling issue…fuel filter, fuel pressure or blocked injectors.
Perfect guide, just done my FL2. Thank you!
Thanks Tim!
@@BeavisPits I have a 2008 I was driving it a lost performance on me and then it cut out as it was moving and it will not start since I'm trying to locate where is the crank position and sensor and I cannot find it if you can please help me
If you watch the video it will show you were the sensor is and how to replace it
thank you for making this video!
very concise , looked for simple solution to problem , found it ,applied it , problem resolved ; good approach thanks. Question if crankshaft sensor fails can that stop the glow plugs from activating and subsequently stop the fuel injectors from activating .
Glad to hear my video was helpful, thanks Peter. Not sure about the glowplugs but the fuel injectors almost certainly won’t run if the engine can’t work out its speed or position.
Scott. To seal it, you could have "molded" some Plasticine around. It will go hard, but, easy enough to remove if you need to change it again. Just a tip mate 👍
I got the Autel MaxiAP200 OBD reader, £50 from Amazon when I got it and that pointed out straight away fault was CPS. I also have the red one shown in the video naturally that showed no faults.
I would recommend Autel AP200 Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner Code Reader, I've just upgraded from the same reader you have and this new one is 100% better. finds & reads more codes etc.
Thanks, I will buy one!
@@BeavisPits your welcome .. have a read up on it, well worth it, codes cars key too, I had an ABS fault old one didn't say much, the new one pined it down to front RHS wheel sensor .. turn out to be a worn cable on the sensor…
Lol my FL2 did something very similar just now.
Stalled it twice when doing a 3 point turn and it started automatically which is weird because I've very rarely stalled this car.
Got onto the main road and oil and battery light came on but car was still running.
Was bucking like crazy. Eventually cut out and wouldn't start as I was coasting.
Pulled over, unplugged the battery and it started first time.
Didn't get a chance to do any real diagnostics as I was in a rush to get home.
I'm hoping it's going to be the same issue as yours?
If you have the stop-start model, then it should restart automatically after a stall. It can become a hindrance though as your automatic reaction is to go for the starter button which then aborts the restart and doesn’t start the car until he press it again. I’ve stalled a couple of times and it has been quite embarrassing pressing the button over and over to try and get the thing to start cranking while other cars are sitting there waiting. Good luck with the sensor diagnosis.
@@BeavisPits It did try to automatically restart but just couldn't catch.
It was really weird though. Was turning a corner and the power steering immediately cut out, oil pressure came on then it all came back and then finally cut off and wouldn't start again, either manually or automatically.
Just took the car for a little run and it was perfect again. Want to get the problem addressed though. Don't want to risk driving it far or on the motorway.
Do they do large diameter shrink wrap maybe last a little longer then the tape and once heated would seal tightly around the plug top. Great video as always
Good idea John, I’ll look into that
Mine did exactly the same yesterday so I’m going to change the crank sensor too
Good luck, let us know if it fixes the problem
@@BeavisPits hi pal I changed the sensor today and so far it’s ok so I’d just like to say thank you for your video
@@keithdables5909 Excellent! Really good to hear!
Thanks for the video! I have a 2014 SD4 XS and for some reason just cruising at say 60 or 70 km/hr the RPM drops to around 1300-1400 RPM and there is a rumbling/juddering vibration at the RHS drivers footwell and the only way I can get past that RPM that causes that vibration (resonance?) is to accelerate to 2000 RPM and hope the vehicle settles in the required speed at a slightly higher RPM. The indie I take my vehicle to says the CPS sometimes fails without any fault signal...or is that RPM drop a a torque converter slipping (don't know what that feels or sounds like) or the CPS?
Could be the crank sensor, but that will usually show up under acceleration. Check the turbo actuator too.
@@BeavisPits thanks for the prompt response. Appreciate it! Yes, it often does happen under acceleration at which time I have to floor the pedal to get it to 'wake up'. As for the turbocharge guide vane actuator I guess I will have to get the vehicle scanned for any faults. I only have the vehicle 8 months now. I cleaned the intercooler the weekend past and checked the intercooler hose on the discharge side and appeared to be the Jubilee clamp...no split in the hoses. I checked it due to oil leaking at the plastic flange on the intercooler AND there is an irritating 'wooing' noise at slow speeds just driving down the driveway and at suburb speeds (60-70km/hr)...sounds like a vacuum noise in the distance, but it's driving me crazy.
Same thing happened to me this evening, cutting out briefly a couple of times then stopped completely, restarting after around 5 minutes. Got the ten miles home with an occasional lurch. I've got a professional code reader which didn't show any fault codes , 1st step replace crank sensor. Video helpful for that will let you know how I get on!
Exactly what happened to me! Good luck fixing it! Highly likely to be your crank sensor.
@@BeavisPits have ordered sensor but with everything shut Monday for funeral, prob midweek before I get it. 70 year old triumph 5ta going to have to step up for the next few days !
@@BeavisPits new crank sensor fitted and now done over 50 miles without issue, so it appears to have been the crank sensor that was the problem. Once cover removed you can see how water would run down the harness into the back of the connector causing faults. I packed the back of the connector with petroleum jelly, to help waterproof it. So all I can say is well done and keep posting the videos.👍
good close-up"s !
Had the same issue recently a year after the same problem - RAC called out and actually found it was not the sensor itself but the female end of the connection on the end of the loom? Fixed for now. Now I have to find a replacement plug, LR will only sell the entire engine loom @ £500 so will have to dig around to solve the issue - maybe a salvage part and a professional auto electrician to graft on as I know the sensor is very sensitive to reading the current from ECU. Happy bludy days 😁
The sensor itself is actually quite reliable. As you have found, the weakest link is the connector which can get water in it and corrode. If I find a suitable replacement plug, I’ll let you know.
@@BeavisPits interestingly enough I think I’ve found a supplier and a replacement plug - identified as plug 211 PC 03 2 S 0 049 they have sent me a 3 Way Delphi SICMA 1.5 plug and female socket contacts - if I can get a good auto electrician to fit it and this actually works I’ll get back!
On the lr2 td4 diesel, the crankshaft position sensor is located in the same place?
Yes, mine is a TD4
Thank you
Another great vid and looks to be something that should perhaps be replaced if original? our FL2 is 70k miles 10 years old. Hoses being replaced so a good time to do this too.
Seen GSF car parts do these for 25 quid, does a main brand / OEM part matter or should any crank sensor brand from an auto factors be ok?
I'm currently wheel off, inner arch removed, trying to unbolt the bolt. It's a 8mm head for me.
It seems to be locked tight, can't get it to move and afraid of rounding it off.
Any ideas?
The bolt which retains the sensor? Mine undid ok, can’t remember the size, but it is screwed into aluminium I think so my have reacted and got stuck. WD40 should help. Maybe a couple of light taps with a hammer to jolt the thread and break any oxide crystals which have formed.
@@BeavisPits yeah, the sensor bolt. I got it off, but a spanner wasn't going to do it. Socket did.
Also I noticed where you put your jack stands, is that safe to do, as in won't damage the vehicle?
I got the old sensor off, put on the new, Facet from GSF autofactors, car wouldn't start, just turned over.
Had to put old sensor on and back to old problem of intermittent powerless and lumpy performance.
Checked all the hoses today, no holes or issues on them
Axle stands are fine there. Either your new sensor is faulty (it can happen), or the fault lies in the wiring. The connector is usually the weak point, not the actual sensor itself. There is also a possibility that more than one sensor is available for the freelander 2, so make sure you’ve got the right one for your year. I bought mine from Euro Car Parts, I can’t remember the brand. Also try a battery disconnect to reset the engine management system.
@@BeavisPits Thanks for the response again. just taking the Facet sensor back. The old one works fine to start and run the car, so I doubt its the wiring.
I'll make sure it was the right one for the right year/car and see what they say or if other options.
I wasnt too happy using that place for the axel stands, as not sure its made to take the weight directly, but seemed ok. I also had to jack from the bolt where the subframe mounts, just behind where the axel stand went, as side bars and my homemade ramps are quite long and were in the way.
but went ok.
I'll try the batter disconnect too. I did do the soft reset for "learning" but Im not sure that did anything.
Need the car for a long day round trip this week, but no confidence in it right now, will probably hire a car so dont get stranded somewhere. Frustrating issue to have.
Maybe some heat shrink wrap/sleeve on it
I thought about this but a heatshrink tube would need to pass over the connector too, meaning it would be quite large diameter. This could let water in at the wire end which could then sit inside. I’ll see if I can get a wrap/tape type of heatshrink. I thought insulation tape tended to shrink and tighten over time. A proper watertight shield is the way forward.
Boa noite, o vídeo ajudou bastante a resolver o problema do meu freelander, o carro não passava das 2 mil rpm , ao vídeo descobri que tinha mau contacto no terminal da ficha do sensor da cambota, agradeço pelo vídeo.
Do you think it has anything to do with the mods you've done to it and the factory settings don't understand?
That did cross my mind, but most of my mods are cosmetic and/or non-performance enhancing. There was a slim possibility that the air duct or K&N could have confused the ECU, but I discounted them as been happily driving around with those for a while with no issues. As soon as I felt the car lurch, I thought “crank sensor” as I’ve felt it do that before after wading.
Is the crank sensor in the same place on the freelander td4
Not sure, never worked on an FL1.
@BeavisPits thanks I have found a manual and the location of it
The CPS you had only had 3 fins on it the new one only 2. Is it still running okay as I believe there are two types out there?
Yep, still running fine.
Had to change this on my FL2 as well. Problem started with the odd engine cut-out when in traffic but these did not throw a code. Then, one day, I was behind a learner on a B road and decided to overtake - I just got past them and the engine cut out dead!. I pulled in front of the learner and put my hazards on and ground to a halt. I think the instructor thought I was being a c**K! The car immediately started and I headed home and this time had the Cranksahft Position code. Fitted a genuine part and all good since.
Sounds exactly the same. The issue only really shows when accelerating, which is very annoying and sometime even dangerous. I need to know that when I put my foot down it is going to go.
Well you need a proper diagnostic tool. I am using iCarsoft CR Pro and JLR SDD
I have since bought an Autel AP200, see latest video. This was recommended by the facebook group members.
I had same problem, I also did same things. But my problem did not solve unfortunately. I brang my car repairman and he said The crank mile must be changed with diesel fuel pump. Afterthat my problem solved. But Thx for video. And now I have different problem. My car's steering wheel is vibrating when climbing, my repairman checked and he said it is because of shift torque converter. Now I am really sad because I don't know why this happened and does my gearbox also need replace, because he said torque converter generally damaged because of bad gearbox. :(( 2.2 td4 freelander 225.000 km
Mine is a manual gearbox, but if you join one of the Facebook groups and ask on there about gearbox power flushing then somebody will know and be able to advise you of what is required.
@@BeavisPits I am really thankfull for your interest.
Hello mate. What brand of sensor did you use. Thinking of getting a spare for my up coming 4.5K miles road trip.
It was either Bosch or Haas, bought from euro car parts
Can you do a video about the freelander EGR ?
I did a video on the EGR blanking plate. I don’t have any plans to remove this or the EGR valve. It is a pain to get at as down the back of the engine so I’ll be letting sleeping dogs lie on that one.
Mr rpm gauge is sitting lower than the engine revs actually are. Any suggestions, worth changing the crank sensor?
Yeh, I would definitely change the crank sensor. That signal feeds the rev counter. Could be a faulty gauge but check the sensor first. Any lurching or fault codes?
@BeavisPits runs fine
🤝 спасибо за полезное видео!
good video but that tape will allow water to sit inside and rot the wires just put sicka flex or silicon on it
Good point. I will apply some black silicone sealant instead. I will try to design a proper shield.
Good video a bit long, just one thing though when you put the tape on the wiring it does nothing but trap water, there is no chafing and it will not stop an impact? It has been ok from new, if you suspect water is getting past the plug and wire seals you need to replace it, you can get a plug kit from main dealer or durite.
Hi Rick, my sensor has behaved perfectly since filming this video, although you’re not the first to mention about the tape trapping water. Next time I’m in the wheel arch I’ll remove the tape. I’m also working on a sealed housing to go over the connector. Possibly overkill but any extra protection can’t be a bad thing when wading.
Got the same with a Ford Kuga I have at the moment. No codes though.
It is with a Ford dealers (purchased from a Kia dealer used) I have suggested it to them but heard nothing. Ideally I could do with them finding a fault so I can return the dam thing for a refund then go buy a FL2 :)
Dont you dare say a bad word about ebay tools :D
Some are good, depends where they are made
Hi Scott,
Is it possible to just clean up the old CKP and plug it back and have good results?
Probably! The connector is the weak point.
Nice vid
If mine and your Freelander were both female, I would say their "monthly cycles" are aligned. A short while after your video about the PTC heater, mine packed up. So I bet I can expect this to hit me in the not so distant future.
OEM NUMBER?
Apparently there are two types of crank sensor depending on VIN…
LR000681 for VIN AHxxxxxxx
LR056028 for VIN BHxxxxxxx
Falta de curente nos emjetores