Thanks but I can't take all the credit. This is a fairly common tactic for getting quick alignment of jigs. You'll find some other videos about creating these jigs in my video backlog.
@@SteveMakesEverything I've seen them (a couple). It might be common but your show repeats/teaches this to the unknown. My first laser comes in a couple weeks so I've been eating up more TH-cam vids than donuts, and your vids does a good job teaching this tactic.
Excellent video ! - Very helpful and informative - Thanks for taking the time to record this information and kindly share your knowledge in etching anodized aluminum - I really appreciate this ! 👍👍👍
Hi Chris, First thanks for the time spending on those videos. I'm a newbie in laser so I'm not sure that my comments on this work is still useful or not :) The first one is that i would put two "cross mark" somewhere in on the jig, this would allow afterwards to put your jig in any position and anywhere on the laser bed and use in the software the function "print and cut" (available in lightburn, that's the only software that i use at this time). The second one would be to put a second card board underneath the jig (glue it together or glue the cardboard on a plywood), so you will not risk to scratch your business card when your retire or put them on the laser bed. Greetings from France /Gilles
Ironically I just purchased some of these and they arrived last week. I was thinking of using cardboard for my jig but I like the cardstock idea and flipping them over for the reverse engrave. Great video Steve.
It's taken me years, but I finally figured out that you only need to carry one, maybe two business cards with you at any one time. I usually only ever give out one in a day and I just refill the one in my wallet when I get home.
When I was first starting out, I went to SAMs Club and got one of the 1/8 inch 24x24 cardboard dividers that they put between the stacks of paper towels. Cut it down to size to fit in my machine and engraved my info along with an engraved butterfly with cuts so that the wings were raised.
Hi Great video. I tried same cards with image on them but during clean up some of finer details came off. Did you have any problems with Yours? Im wandering if it is cheapest i could find cards or wrong settings on my part( 10w diode laser at 100% and 10mm/sec) Thank You again for taking time to film these videos
Could be either I guess. Run a material test on them to see what the output looks like. I haven’t run into this but my logo is a very simple graphic. I have engraved photos on black cards though without any issues.
Can’t wait to try this! You mentioned you made the jib a bit bigger than the cards. Do you have the exact measurements that you used on the card stock?
It's really just larger by a tiny amount because you don't want the card to slop around in the jig. It's just so you can insert it and remove it without risking messing up the jig alignment
Ah sorry, I probably should have indicated the DPI. I used 500dpi for the video but I normally use 250 so cards take less time to engrave. I don’t really see a difference between the two, but quality counts for these since you’re using them to push your brand. Thanks for the encouragement. 😀
Very Cool. I'm not blessed (yet) to own a laser cutter. Hoping to get the funds for the $200-300 ones within a year. I do have a question though. Can this be done with NFC cards? NFC cards being made of PVC with a programmable chip in them. That way customers can simply tap their phone to it and bring up my info for saving. The metal cards are amazing but I expect them to get annoying to carry for passing out, due to weight. I'm also worried about the edges being blade sharp. I've had paper cuts from traditional cards, I can't imagine the sudden pain from a metal card, as I try to pull it out of my wallet.
The general caution with PVC is to stay away from it with a laser because it will cause Chlorine to outgas in to the air. It’s always tempting but just say no. Don’t worry about metal cards. They are thicker than paper and not sharp enough to cut
If you think you will hand 20 business cards on a day to day bases you are wrong. Trust me business does not grow as fast as you think. I had out maybe 1 a day if I’m lucky
I didn't mention it nor did I measure it for the video, but if you're interested, it is 0.2mm. A CO2 laser won't cut through it, but a Fibre laser would
Do you have your card design as a template? I am novice and finding it very hard to use to the software from scratch. If there is a template, it would go a long way.
So subsequent usage of the template works the same way as shown here. You can drop the template onto your workspace and then in your laser control software (i.e. RE3 or Lightburn) position your laser on the X in the corners to get the template aligned to your drawing and you should be ready to go. Watch the jig video I did and this will be clearer: th-cam.com/video/TTUr9EoMy2g/w-d-xo.html
I know this is an old video but I just got my xtool d1 pro and every time I try to do a metal business card it duplicates the letters… do you maybe have any suggestions on how to fix this?
I clicked on the link to check out these business cards and alot of people are saying they scratch easily. Would you confirm if that's true Steve? Would you really reccomend? 🤔
I think it depends on the cards you buy. There are definitely cheaper ones but I use the ones I linked to in the video description. I carry a few of these around in my wallet for weeks, where they would definitely get abused and I haven't seen any scratching. These ones can't be aluminium - at least not pure - because they are quite flexible, but not magnetic. They come in different colors - maybe other colors are more susceptible to damage. possibly someone else can comment if they've had problems.
@FamousHecGaming. OK, so humble apology coming your way...I went back and looked at the last order I made for these cards and I referenced a different one in the description. I've updated the link in the description for the exact ones I used in the video. (see here amzn.to/3haAKVp). Fair warning though that these don't have a lot of reviews, but I have beaten them up pretty hard with no issues. Keep in mind though that no business card, metal or otherwise, is going to be indestructible.
@@SteveMakesEverything I'm looking to get a small laser engraver just for business cards. Is there a specific one that is small and low cost that you would recommended?
@@ayoubthegreat "Low cost" is a relative term, but if you just want something that can engrave metal business cards quickly, then my choice would be the xTool F1. It's certainly not the cheapest, but it would save you a ton of time because the IR laser is much faster than a diode laser. It also has a slider so you can make a jig and do several cards at once (see my video on this) You could also look at something like the Commarker B4 20W fiber laser which would be even faster, but again, it won't be the cheapest. If your goal is to stay under $1000, then any of the diode lasers I have reviewed on this channel will do the job as well, though a diode laser would require 3-4x the time to engrave a card.
Sorry, I thought I answered this but I don't see my response. Anyway, here it is again: The type of laser you need will depend very much on a couple of things. First the color of the plastic is key since diode lasers can't engrave clear acrylic without some form of coating so it would be laser intensive. Second if you are make something like business cards where you will have lots of them, then a diode laser may not be best since you are limited in the number of items you can make at any one time, whereas even a typical CO2 laser has a bed big enough to make dozens of these are at once. On the downside a CO2 laser will cost $1000+ compared to a $200+ for a diode laser - and if budget is not a consideration, then you could also look at fibre lasers, which are incredibly fast and very precise. I know I didn't answer your questions, but these are things you will need to consider to get to the answer that's right for you. BTW I feel compelled to mention that if the plastic you are engraving is PVC then you shouldn't use a laser at all.
Not sure if you’re asking because you want me to make you some of if your just wondering what to charge someone. If it’s the former, the. Shoot me an email. If it’s the latter I charge for the cards plus whatever time it takes to make them.
Wow. These look really nice. Thank you for sharing.
Glad you like them!
I'm so happy I found your channel. These videos are like a master class on modern making techniques. Thank you so much!
Welcome aboard! If there are subjects you’d like to see covered just shoot me a message
I love that cutting out the template move you do. Brilliant!
Thanks but I can't take all the credit. This is a fairly common tactic for getting quick alignment of jigs. You'll find some other videos about creating these jigs in my video backlog.
@@SteveMakesEverything I've seen them (a couple). It might be common but your show repeats/teaches this to the unknown.
My first laser comes in a couple weeks so I've been eating up more TH-cam vids than donuts, and your vids does a good job teaching this tactic.
@@coulterjb22 Well, I'm glad you are finding the channel useful.
Excellent video ! - Very helpful and informative - Thanks for taking the time to record this information and kindly share your knowledge in etching anodized aluminum - I really appreciate this ! 👍👍👍
Thanks for the kind words. Hopefully, the video helps you out a bit.
@@SteveMakesEverything You are very welcome mate - This is all Fascinating stuff to me !
Hi Chris,
First thanks for the time spending on those videos. I'm a newbie in laser so I'm not sure that my comments on this work is still useful or not :)
The first one is that i would put two "cross mark" somewhere in on the jig, this would allow afterwards to put your jig in any position and anywhere on the laser bed and use in the software the function "print and cut" (available in lightburn, that's the only software that i use at this time).
The second one would be to put a second card board underneath the jig (glue it together or glue the cardboard on a plywood), so you will not risk to scratch your business card when your retire or put them on the laser bed.
Greetings from France
/Gilles
I actually use 4 targets on my jigs. This allows X-Y positioning as well and rotational correctness.
Great ideas! The QR code, especially, I hadn't thought of that. Thanks for the video n info
Glad it was helpful!
Ironically I just purchased some of these and they arrived last week. I was thinking of using cardboard for my jig but I like the cardstock idea and flipping them over for the reverse engrave. Great video Steve.
Cardboard will work fine too
It's taken me years, but I finally figured out that you only need to carry one, maybe two business cards with you at any one time. I usually only ever give out one in a day and I just refill the one in my wallet when I get home.
I came to the same conclusion. Most of the time I know when I’m going to meet with someone who I want to give a business card
When I was first starting out, I went to SAMs Club and got one of the 1/8 inch 24x24 cardboard dividers that they put between the stacks of paper towels. Cut it down to size to fit in my machine and engraved my info along with an engraved butterfly with cuts so that the wings were raised.
Nice!
Hi
Great video. I tried same cards with image on them but during clean up some of finer details came off. Did you have any problems with Yours?
Im wandering if it is cheapest i could find cards or wrong settings on my part( 10w diode laser at 100% and 10mm/sec)
Thank You again for taking time to film these videos
Could be either I guess. Run a material test on them to see what the output looks like. I haven’t run into this but my logo is a very simple graphic. I have engraved photos on black cards though without any issues.
Hi
You mentioned you did this with a CO2 laser, can I do these with diode laser.
I use a crealty falcon 2, 22w
Yes of course. In fact it would probably be better with a diode laser
Just joined the channel. Nice looking cards Steve, and thank you for the clear instructions.
Thanks for the sub! Hopefully you find some value here
Thanks Steve. just ordered some of these to try
Fantastic! Post a comment or shoot an email to let me know how they work out for you
Can’t wait to try this! You mentioned you made the jib a bit bigger than the cards. Do you have the exact measurements that you used on the card stock?
It's really just larger by a tiny amount because you don't want the card to slop around in the jig. It's just so you can insert it and remove it without risking messing up the jig alignment
Steve, love your channel, thank you.
What dpi setting did you use?
Ah sorry, I probably should have indicated the DPI. I used 500dpi for the video but I normally use 250 so cards take less time to engrave. I don’t really see a difference between the two, but quality counts for these since you’re using them to push your brand. Thanks for the encouragement. 😀
Great video. Thanks. Subscribed!
Welcome aboard
Do you have need to clean them in anyway after you engrave them.
Generally not. Any dust stuck on them can be wiped with a microfiber cloth
@@SteveMakesEverything Thank you
Hi Steve, what material is the template?
If you’re asking about jigs, I usually make those out of 3mm plywood
Very Cool.
I'm not blessed (yet) to own a laser cutter. Hoping to get the funds for the $200-300 ones within a year.
I do have a question though. Can this be done with NFC cards? NFC cards being made of PVC with a programmable chip in them. That way customers can simply tap their phone to it and bring up my info for saving.
The metal cards are amazing but I expect them to get annoying to carry for passing out, due to weight. I'm also worried about the edges being blade sharp. I've had paper cuts from traditional cards, I can't imagine the sudden pain from a metal card, as I try to pull it out of my wallet.
The general caution with PVC is to stay away from it with a laser because it will cause Chlorine to outgas in to the air. It’s always tempting but just say no.
Don’t worry about metal cards. They are thicker than paper and not sharp enough to cut
If you think you will hand 20 business cards on a day to day bases you are wrong. Trust me business does not grow as fast as you think. I had out maybe 1 a day if I’m lucky
Thank you!
Happy to help
what is the thickness of the material? did I miss it if you mentioned already!
I didn't mention it nor did I measure it for the video, but if you're interested, it is 0.2mm. A CO2 laser won't cut through it, but a Fibre laser would
Do you have your card design as a template? I am novice and finding it very hard to use to the software from scratch. If there is a template, it would go a long way.
I don’t sorry. The way I do this is draw a rectangle the exact size of the card and then use that as your sizing template
How do you reuse the template. I know you said the little X in the corner was for that purpose but you didn’t say how you said that back up. Thanks
So subsequent usage of the template works the same way as shown here. You can drop the template onto your workspace and then in your laser control software (i.e. RE3 or Lightburn) position your laser on the X in the corners to get the template aligned to your drawing and you should be ready to go. Watch the jig video I did and this will be clearer: th-cam.com/video/TTUr9EoMy2g/w-d-xo.html
I know this is an old video but I just got my xtool d1 pro and every time I try to do a metal business card it duplicates the letters… do you maybe have any suggestions on how to fix this?
I’m not sure what you mean. Can you email me a photo?
I clicked on the link to check out these business cards and alot of people are saying they scratch easily. Would you confirm if that's true Steve?
Would you really reccomend? 🤔
I think it depends on the cards you buy. There are definitely cheaper ones but I use the ones I linked to in the video description. I carry a few of these around in my wallet for weeks, where they would definitely get abused and I haven't seen any scratching. These ones can't be aluminium - at least not pure - because they are quite flexible, but not magnetic.
They come in different colors - maybe other colors are more susceptible to damage. possibly someone else can comment if they've had problems.
@FamousHecGaming. OK, so humble apology coming your way...I went back and looked at the last order I made for these cards and I referenced a different one in the description. I've updated the link in the description for the exact ones I used in the video. (see here amzn.to/3haAKVp). Fair warning though that these don't have a lot of reviews, but I have beaten them up pretty hard with no issues. Keep in mind though that no business card, metal or otherwise, is going to be indestructible.
@@SteveMakesEverything thanks Steve, You're awesome !!!
Make sure to make your qr code only has Small level of redundency. It will scan better that way.
nakw?
@@SteveMakesEverything I'm looking to get a small laser engraver just for business cards. Is there a specific one that is small and low cost that you would recommended?
@@ayoubthegreat "Low cost" is a relative term, but if you just want something that can engrave metal business cards quickly, then my choice would be the xTool F1. It's certainly not the cheapest, but it would save you a ton of time because the IR laser is much faster than a diode laser. It also has a slider so you can make a jig and do several cards at once (see my video on this)
You could also look at something like the Commarker B4 20W fiber laser which would be even faster, but again, it won't be the cheapest.
If your goal is to stay under $1000, then any of the diode lasers I have reviewed on this channel will do the job as well, though a diode laser would require 3-4x the time to engrave a card.
What's the cheapest qr code engraver one can get for a plastic card
Sorry, I thought I answered this but I don't see my response. Anyway, here it is again: The type of laser you need will depend very much on a couple of things. First the color of the plastic is key since diode lasers can't engrave clear acrylic without some form of coating so it would be laser intensive. Second if you are make something like business cards where you will have lots of them, then a diode laser may not be best since you are limited in the number of items you can make at any one time, whereas even a typical CO2 laser has a bed big enough to make dozens of these are at once. On the downside a CO2 laser will cost $1000+ compared to a $200+ for a diode laser - and if budget is not a consideration, then you could also look at fibre lasers, which are incredibly fast and very precise.
I know I didn't answer your questions, but these are things you will need to consider to get to the answer that's right for you.
BTW I feel compelled to mention that if the plastic you are engraving is PVC then you shouldn't use a laser at all.
@@SteveMakesEverything thanks slot this was very helpful
Is that a Co2 laser machine?
Yes.
How much would you charge for let’s say…25 and 50 cards?
Not sure if you’re asking because you want me to make you some of if your just wondering what to charge someone. If it’s the former, the. Shoot me an email. If it’s the latter I charge for the cards plus whatever time it takes to make them.
Can u help me out with a 15 card jig I bought off etsy
I bought a jig and a file need help making them
So I can't find this exact one, but what problem are you having?
When you flipped the card it looked like it started in the wrong spot.
It’s entirely possible. If I remember this video I recycled a card from a previous experiment
Card-engraving-jig-digital-file
PARAMETER FOR CXUT MR CARVE