Ha I guessed right. I like number 4 the best. Good job on touching on the logos, I see it every where. You are very right one those lawyers. Keep the vids coming you are doing great!
Good video and the ideas you gave are good. I did like the QR code idea as I do coasters for the resturant down the street and being able to call up thier menu is a great idea. I do like the look of the clear coated one the best, no sanding as I like the rustic look better. The laser your working on looks like a copy cat of the AtomStack A20 Pro which I have and just love.
I have a few couple questions. Wouldn't the clearcoat breakdown over a short period of time with glasses and such scratching the surface? Would it be better to wait and clearcoat after the engraving so you seal the surface that the laser hit? Also, wouldn't seasoning the surface with an oil like you do for cast iron skillets be better for them then clearcoat? I'm asking because I'm new to the engraving world.
Greetings from Norway! When I saw you clearcoating the slate *before* engraving it, I was like *no*!!! Don't do that! The slate itself releases no fumes whatsoever. The paint, on the other hand, does indeed. Personally, I've had very good results by laser engraving slate and then applying a thin coat of hardwaxoil. I used Osmo Topoil, since that was what I had, and which also has the bonus of being food-safe. I applied the hardwaxoil thinly and waited a minute before rubbing off what's possible with a dry cloth and then gave it 24 hours to harden. That's not needed, 12h should do, but I wasn't around anyway, so not an issue. The result becomes more matte than the flashy stuff you showed there, but the contrast remains good and personally, I like that. If you don't have hardwaxoil, just try with some cooking oil first. It should work, although it might need to be repeated over time.
If you use a random orbital sander to sand these coasters, the vibration will mash the rubber feet underneath, and you get an uneven sanded surface because your pressure changes over the coaster. A better option is to use a belt sander upside down, and hold the coaster against it with even pressure. You can seal slate with a food safe stone countertop sealer, and the matte finish will make it easier to see the engraving. The hardest part is convincing people they want to buy a coaster for any price that makes you a profit.
Thanks for this comparison. Great video. I would love to see what it would look like with a matte clear coat. Personally I don't love the shine. Also would it make any difference if the clear coat was done AFTER the engraving?
Great video! But doesn't adding clear coat defeat the purpose is slate coasters? Slate absorbs the condensation, the clear coat would not allow that process to happen? Maybe I'm completely wrong.
If I'm being completely honest, I actually hadn't even considered this. It has been cold here, pretty uch since we made these, and condensation hasn't been much concern. I supposed I never even gave that any thought to material choice when it comes to coasters. My first inclination was just, the surface tension of the condensation would help keep it sticking to the coaster, but absorption never crossed my mind. Now I'm wondering if we shouldn't find some way to test this
Thank you for making the video. I didn't hear you talk about putting a sealing coat on the coaster after engraving. I have experimented with putting a sealing coat and have not found a good solution yet. Each attempt appears to decrease the contrast and the ability to see the carve after engraving is impacted significantly by the angle of looking at the coaster and the lighting conditions. Have you experimented with finding a good sealing process that doesn't impact the contrast of the carving? I would be interested in seeing that process. I made a video in the last couple week, after experimenting with reusing previously engraved coasters. Something I didn't know was possible until I saw someone else's video. I gave them credit for causing me to experiment with the process in my video. In that video I sand off the old engrave and then use black paint as a pre-coat. I was happy with the result, but as you suggest I am not sure I would take the time to sand each coaster as a regular process. But precoating with the black primer will probably continue. I think of it like the opposite of the Norton White Tile method. Thank you again for your information and keep up the journey.
Hi Rem. Greetings from Ireland. Easy to watch video, congrats. 3 questions though. 1 - Wud you tell me where in lightburn do i find the programme which does the speeds/feeds test slates. 2 - in that programne, do we set certain speeds and powers or is it all preset? 3 - i see most of the findings of the speed/feed test slate pointed towards using 100% power to get the whitest/blackest results. But I've read so many times over and over again that it's supposed to be bad for the diode to run it at 100% as it causes the diode to burn itself out in double quick time. Wud appreciate your thoughts on that theory. Keep up the good work. 👍
Great video. You are right you do not want to inhale stone dust. Silicosis is a bad way to die. Think black lung... As for the sanding, Use two different grit sandpaper. Do the first pass at 120 to remove the bulk of the material then use 320-400 to finish. You should also test clear coat before and after the engraving. That way you don't have to deal with the fumes if you get the same dark color if you clear coat after.. As for placement, take a piece of 2mm basswood and use your laser to cut out however many 4" squares or circles you need for your coasters. Then just glue or tape that to your base. Then you just need to drop the coaster into the shallow cutout to get proper placement.
Thank you for the video. Couple things. One of the properties of slate that makes it a great choice for a coaster is that it can absorb moisture so that condensation doesn't pool, run off, and damage the surface it is on. Also, if you are going to remove this useful property by sealing it with a clear coat, you should probably do so after engraving because I'm guessing you have no idea what chemical reactions are happening when you burn the clear coat. But hey, your coasters look nice!
Other than spraying the clear coat too close to the coasters, and questionable sanding technique, I thought the video/demo was good. Agree 100% with you on the intellectual property issue especially on Etsy - it's ridiculous how much illegal stuff is on there. And to those thinking if they buy SVG art of trademarked characters or logos, that it then becomes legal to make products with that artwork - NO - IT IS STILL ILLEGAL!
Be much better if you had them side by side on your table with labels to be able to see then for about 5 seconds lol. Not a good way to display the finished product at all. Better luck next time.
You've got a great sense of humor! Love the random outtakes.
Great job demonstrating the different processes.
Ha I guessed right. I like number 4 the best. Good job on touching on the logos, I see it every where. You are very right one those lawyers. Keep the vids coming you are doing great!
Great job, I love the spray coated only coasters the best.
This was great and enjoyable to watch plus another facet of being creative. Thanks for sharing.
It's so cool!!!! really like it~
Thanks so much for this video! It was simple, straight to the point, and told me everything I needed to know. I feel much more confident now. THANKS!!
Good video and the ideas you gave are good. I did like the QR code idea as I do coasters for the resturant down the street and being able to call up thier menu is a great idea. I do like the look of the clear coated one the best, no sanding as I like the rustic look better.
The laser your working on looks like a copy cat of the AtomStack A20 Pro which I have and just love.
great video, kinda makes me want an engraver now 😆
*NEW SUBSCRIBER!*
What a fantastic vid, great quality information and your authenticity is very engaging!
...and yeah your logo does look cool 😎 😎
Welcome aboard!
Good tutorial, thanks! I liked #1 best. Wonder if the horrible smell is from the clear cut?
Thanks for the extra information.
I have a few couple questions. Wouldn't the clearcoat breakdown over a short period of time with glasses and such scratching the surface? Would it be better to wait and clearcoat after the engraving so you seal the surface that the laser hit? Also, wouldn't seasoning the surface with an oil like you do for cast iron skillets be better for them then clearcoat? I'm asking because I'm new to the engraving world.
Greetings from Norway! When I saw you clearcoating the slate *before* engraving it, I was like *no*!!! Don't do that! The slate itself releases no fumes whatsoever. The paint, on the other hand, does indeed. Personally, I've had very good results by laser engraving slate and then applying a thin coat of hardwaxoil. I used Osmo Topoil, since that was what I had, and which also has the bonus of being food-safe. I applied the hardwaxoil thinly and waited a minute before rubbing off what's possible with a dry cloth and then gave it 24 hours to harden. That's not needed, 12h should do, but I wasn't around anyway, so not an issue. The result becomes more matte than the flashy stuff you showed there, but the contrast remains good and personally, I like that. If you don't have hardwaxoil, just try with some cooking oil first. It should work, although it might need to be repeated over time.
Wouldn't applying a coat of wax reduce the slate's ability to absorb liquid/condensation from drinks?
If you use a random orbital sander to sand these coasters, the vibration will mash the rubber feet underneath, and you get an uneven sanded surface because your pressure changes over the coaster. A better option is to use a belt sander upside down, and hold the coaster against it with even pressure. You can seal slate with a food safe stone countertop sealer, and the matte finish will make it easier to see the engraving. The hardest part is convincing people they want to buy a coaster for any price that makes you a profit.
Thanks for this comparison. Great video. I would love to see what it would look like with a matte clear coat. Personally I don't love the shine. Also would it make any difference if the clear coat was done AFTER the engraving?
Hadn't thought about Matte clear. Will have to reevaluate in the future! Great suggestion.
Also I haven't tested the before in after.
Very helpful, thank you 🙂
Happy to be of assistance!
#4 and can I use KENTOKTOOL JL7 LASER TO ENGRAVE ON SLATE
You should be able to! Looks like a 10w diode laser from what I can tell, that's what we've used in all of our projects involving the laser!
You help me very mutch😀😀😀
Machin price
Great video! But doesn't adding clear coat defeat the purpose is slate coasters? Slate absorbs the condensation, the clear coat would not allow that process to happen? Maybe I'm completely wrong.
If I'm being completely honest, I actually hadn't even considered this. It has been cold here, pretty uch since we made these, and condensation hasn't been much concern.
I supposed I never even gave that any thought to material choice when it comes to coasters. My first inclination was just, the surface tension of the condensation would help keep it sticking to the coaster, but absorption never crossed my mind. Now I'm wondering if we shouldn't find some way to test this
Slate does not absorb moisture. If it did, slate would not be used for roof tiles.
Thank you for making the video. I didn't hear you talk about putting a sealing coat on the coaster after engraving. I have experimented with putting a sealing coat and have not found a good solution yet. Each attempt appears to decrease the contrast and the ability to see the carve after engraving is impacted significantly by the angle of looking at the coaster and the lighting conditions. Have you experimented with finding a good sealing process that doesn't impact the contrast of the carving? I would be interested in seeing that process.
I made a video in the last couple week, after experimenting with reusing previously engraved coasters. Something I didn't know was possible until I saw someone else's video. I gave them credit for causing me to experiment with the process in my video. In that video I sand off the old engrave and then use black paint as a pre-coat. I was happy with the result, but as you suggest I am not sure I would take the time to sand each coaster as a regular process. But precoating with the black primer will probably continue. I think of it like the opposite of the Norton White Tile method.
Thank you again for your information and keep up the journey.
In my opinion, no sealing is necessary after engraving - they're stone and won't get damaged from moisture.
Good content, only one thing I would like to see is run times.
Great feedback! We have some laser projects coming up, will keep this in mind for sure
Hi Rem. Greetings from Ireland.
Easy to watch video, congrats.
3 questions though.
1 - Wud you tell me where in lightburn do i find the programme which does the speeds/feeds test slates.
2 - in that programne, do we set certain speeds and powers or is it all preset?
3 - i see most of the findings of the speed/feed test slate pointed towards using 100% power to get the whitest/blackest results. But I've read so many times over and over again that it's supposed to be bad for the diode to run it at 100% as it causes the diode to burn itself out in double quick time.
Wud appreciate your thoughts on that theory.
Keep up the good work. 👍
Sanded coasters will hold a drink better
Handed even thought about that!
Yep 4 for me too.
As a suggestion, when spray painting keep 12 inches distance from the surface in question to avoid runouts, and never from above like you did.
Great video. You are right you do not want to inhale stone dust. Silicosis is a bad way to die. Think black lung... As for the sanding, Use two different grit sandpaper. Do the first pass at 120 to remove the bulk of the material then use 320-400 to finish. You should also test clear coat before and after the engraving. That way you don't have to deal with the fumes if you get the same dark color if you clear coat after.. As for placement, take a piece of 2mm basswood and use your laser to cut out however many 4" squares or circles you need for your coasters. Then just glue or tape that to your base. Then you just need to drop the coaster into the shallow cutout to get proper placement.
To get silicosis you would have to be sanding 1000s of them 😂 and breathing mass amounts of the dust.
4 best
its paint BLACK gloss??
Clear paint! 😄
Thank you for the video. Couple things. One of the properties of slate that makes it a great choice for a coaster is that it can absorb moisture so that condensation doesn't pool, run off, and damage the surface it is on. Also, if you are going to remove this useful property by sealing it with a clear coat, you should probably do so after engraving because I'm guessing you have no idea what chemical reactions are happening when you burn the clear coat. But hey, your coasters look nice!
Sir you were very wrong about your rubber feat, also you can totally breath in the slate particles “ safely”. Awesome coasters btw
Other than spraying the clear coat too close to the coasters, and questionable sanding technique, I thought the video/demo was good.
Agree 100% with you on the intellectual property issue especially on Etsy - it's ridiculous how much illegal stuff is on there.
And to those thinking if they buy SVG art of trademarked characters or logos, that it then becomes legal to make products with that artwork - NO - IT IS STILL ILLEGAL!
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Wo lol okkooooook lo p❤❤
How powerful is your laser 5, 10,20 watt?
3 for me
Yada yada yada
4
1 natural no clear coat 2 natural clear coat 3 sanded no clear coat 4 sanded with clear coat
2
Nbr 4 by a country mile followed by nbr 3.
Sorry, but that music is obnoxious. Otherwise good video.
Be much better if you had them side by side on your table with labels to be able to see then for about 5 seconds lol. Not a good way to display the finished product at all. Better luck next time.
We’re still pretty new at content creation and working on learning what works and doesn’t. Definitely trying to improve with each video