Spar urethane is very thick. I get much better performance by mixing it with mineral spirits (80% urethane, 20% mineral spirits). Gives a much more uniform coat and no brush marks. Better to apply several coats than one or two thick coats.....
Enjoyed your film and appreciated. The fact that you had the background music very very very low. That is great a lot of videos you can hardly understand the dialogue due to the background music. Thank you.
Also, after about 5 minutes, clean up any drips and then walk away! Don't come back and mess with it, you'll just ruin it. I just got a can of this stuff. I am looking forward to trying out a waterbased exterior clear.
I have the helmsman version of this, for a live edge cedar island. I put a small coat on one end to see if it would darken and highlight the cedar. It seemed super clear and like to didn’t bring out the natural grain. Did this have any tint or anything that made the grain pop?
It can typically take 3/4 depending the knots. Most slabs will absorb a good amount and I typically wait till a final coat to even mess with sanding any trash out. But that is only for table tops.
Gorgeous looking table top Sir, the dark and light wood combination looks very special. Do you have a video that shows how to built such a top? Im new to the woodcraft art world but very much fascinated to learn more. I could not find any video of you creating this top. Any info is much appreciated. Greetings from Netherlands. Great channel
I'm working with cedar. I can't get the spar to come out glossy (3 coats. I do use sanding sealer first. I put the first coat on and the sanded to 320. 2 coat sanded at 1000 wet. Can't seem to find any good videos on this topic.
Typicality I do not sand the finish out on these benches. But I have before. The spar leave a gloss but if your going to sand any small (trash out) I would recommend a very light sand to 3000 plus. And use a rubbing compound to help buff the shine
I prep'd a redwood burl table a friend made for me , after 30 years it was butcher waxed ,as I was told by my friend to do . He is no longer with us , (I would go to him if he was ) to refinish this . Instead I refinished the top with 60 to 1,000 grit ( I have a feeling I over did that ) , my problem is I saw streaking as I put the first light coat on . (I used a foam brush ) I think in my case that may have been a mistake . The weather was 75 to 80 degrees I did it out doors in a half shaded area to avoid too fast a dry . I thought after the 2nd sanding on the first coat the next coat would fill that in ,streaks but it did not . I used 600 grit on the first coat to rough it up ( Think that was another mistake ) I went ahead and took it all back to the wood with my original method 60 to 1000 grit fearing a disaster going any further I stopped . What am I doing wrong? I want so much to preserve a memory of my friend , I'm sure he'd be calling me something derogatory a sarcastic way if he could> thinking of that makes me laugh but looking at my results does not - I need help .Thank you for your time and any advise you can give me . -billy
Some finishes suggest only sanding 240 max. It has to do with the grain becoming to tight to allow the wood to absorb it. I apologize for the late response. If your still having trouble I’d be glad to help.
I’d start sanding at 220 and work to 320, the more you go up, the harder it is for the stain to penetrate. Your foam brush should work fine, but a natural bristle brush works awesome for me. Try thinning your urethane 10-40% it will help with the streaks. I sand at 400 after the first coat, then 600 for the rest. Make sure you clean a stupid amount after sanding each time. You’re making your friend proud by not giving up! You got this👍🏼
Made my day, thank you. I’m working on my edit style and hoping to put a few videos out this week. I really enjoy teaching but until I can do more “how to videos” I’ll try to just keep uploading cool projects.
It’s definitely “safe”, the only downside would be weather resistance. Oil repels water so it’s typically stronger in an outdoor application but oil based products can be tricky to clean up.
Omg can you please help me out. The guy from home depot recommended me to use this on my hardwood floors. They came out great but after reading some comments, they say it shouldn't be used on floors. What is your opinion?
In touch up situations I can see this working well. Cost wise it maybe a lot compared to others. Typically hardwood floors are a polyurethane finish/ very similar. It is a much “darker” product than a water based product but if you like the look now you should be good with the quality of product.
On a larger surface like hardwood floors I suggest a poly that spreads and covers the area more freely/quickly, and dries quicker too. However, on an oak staircase (and oak bar) I used this product on both the banisters and steps almost 20 years ago. It is a very hardy surface and still looks excellent! Both good products. Spar urethane I believe would be more difficult/costly to use on large flooring. I love the look on table tops, bar tops, railings. My Dad turned me on to this product over 30 years ago. He was a life long woodworker. Opinions may very but I dig the product. (your comment was a year ago. How did it turn out?)
You can go as low as necessary but you have to work those swirls back out with higher grit sandpaper( if you go lower, don’t skip grits) . I would recommend no lower than 120 if it’s your first try. 220 is smooth enough to put a finish on.
Great question, Spar is an advanced version of a traditional polyurethane. Spar claims to provide more durability and more flexibility to help expand and contrast with the wood over time. I also find the oil based is a bit stronger outdoors with the advanced UV protection.
@@TexasArtCompany Thanks! It sounds like spar is altogether a better product, so I'm trying to figure out why anyone would use normal poly instead. Cheaper? From my brief research, it appears that spar urethane is thicker, more protective, and flexible, while Poly is harder, tougher, and not as "gummy". Might be that poly is the best choice for furniture unless it's going outdoors?
I tend to agree, it sounds like you have covered all the basics. Poly as always been the go to choice for woodworkers but Spar seems to be a newer more advanced formula that makes up for any shortcomings a classic poly formula may have. It does add a richer "yellowish" hugh that may also be a draw back if the wood is a lighter natural tone. As well as a small cost difference and availability. As the market becomes more familiar with this formula we may find that it becomes the standard. Rust Oleum and Varathane offer a wide variety of both products in many different finishes and I think you have highlighted the need for me to compare them all. Thank you for the support and feedback.
I have a few that have spent about 3 years in the Texas weather. If you are applying over raw wood I really like it. But be aware it will yellow over time (works well for most projects)
It’s definitely thick. But depending on the wood the first coat will absorb a lot. This products definitely takes patiences. I have personally never diluted, I could see how it would help the penetration of the product but I’ve found a light sand between coats to remove the bubbles works well. Once a full coat has sealed the top there shouldn’t be any more air pockets to produce bubbles. Really focusing on sealing the wood to reduce bubbles, then focus on a flawless finish.
@@TexasArtCompany so at the first coat shall i use the varnish with out being diluted so the wood can absorb it ? And what about air bubbles? Does diluting this varnish makes it more able to form bubbles?
@@ahmedhesham8980 diluting may help reduce the bubbles, but if you start with a lighter coat and build it up you shouldn’t trap a lot of bubbles. Less is more. Patients is key.
@@TexasArtCompany I tried it with a brush on one piece and a foam brush on the other. oil-based spar urethane, The phone did better. But both had dozens of bubbles
This product is an oil based product. But in general I would use oil based over water based. It requires more dry time and is a hard to clean up, but I feel the “warmer look” and durability from an oil based product gives a good finish. (The yellow hue may not be right for all projects). Water based has its pros as well and is much more forgiving.
The amount of coats will depend on the wood and end use. Some woods will soak it in depending on their species and how dry they are and may require more coats. You may also want to use more than one depending on how you plan to use the project.
![อาจารย์ยอด : ลุงแว่วเล่าเรื่องผี [ผี]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Fd2Qsy4dqpM/mqdefault.jpg)
Yo ngl your wood tops are really nice keep grinding 💯
Thanks for sharing your wisdom! That was super helpful!
Thank you for the support 🙏
Great video thanks for putting this together
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you
Spar urethane is very thick. I get much better performance by mixing it with mineral spirits (80% urethane, 20% mineral spirits). Gives a much more uniform coat and no brush marks. Better to apply several coats than one or two thick coats.....
Great point! It is super thick
Masyaallah, Good Job uncle 👍
nice to meet you uncle 🙏, From Java Indonesia 🤝
Enjoyed your film and appreciated. The fact that you had the background music very very very low. That is great a lot of videos you can hardly understand the dialogue due to the background music. Thank you.
Thank you so much for the feedback. This video and the feedback has inspired me to make more. Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment.
Also, after about 5 minutes, clean up any drips and then walk away! Don't come back and mess with it, you'll just ruin it. I just got a can of this stuff. I am looking forward to trying out a waterbased exterior clear.
I have the helmsman version of this, for a live edge cedar island. I put a small coat on one end to see if it would darken and highlight the cedar. It seemed super clear and like to didn’t bring out the natural grain. Did this have any tint or anything that made the grain pop?
Water based is clearer this product certainly added a tint for me.
How many coats do you typically do? What does your mid-coat routine consist of? Sanding with ultra fine, tack cloth, etc.?
It can typically take 3/4 depending the knots. Most slabs will absorb a good amount and I typically wait till a final coat to even mess with sanding any trash out. But that is only for table tops.
Very Helpful. Thanks.
Thank you
Gorgeous looking table top Sir, the dark and light wood combination looks very special. Do you have a video that shows how to built such a top? Im new to the woodcraft art world but very much fascinated to learn more. I could not find any video of you creating this top. Any info is much appreciated. Greetings from Netherlands. Great channel
Thank you 🙏, I don’t right now. I hope to get a few new videos up soon.
Which finish did you use on this? Gloss, semi-gloss or Satin? Thanks for the video!
Gloss, 🔥🔥🔥
I'm working with cedar. I can't get the spar to come out glossy (3 coats. I do use sanding sealer first.
I put the first coat on and the sanded to 320. 2 coat sanded at 1000 wet. Can't seem to find any good videos on this topic.
Typicality I do not sand the finish out on these benches. But I have before. The spar leave a gloss but if your going to sand any small (trash out) I would recommend a very light sand to 3000 plus. And use a rubbing compound to help buff the shine
I prep'd a redwood burl table a friend made for me , after 30 years it was butcher waxed ,as I was told by my friend to do . He is no longer with us , (I would go to him if he was ) to refinish this . Instead I refinished the top with 60 to 1,000 grit ( I have a feeling I over did that ) , my problem is I saw streaking as I put the first light coat on . (I used a foam brush ) I think in my case that may have been a mistake . The weather was 75 to 80 degrees I did it out doors in a half shaded area to avoid too fast a dry . I thought after the 2nd sanding on the first coat the next coat would fill that in ,streaks but it did not . I used 600 grit on the first coat to rough it up ( Think that was another mistake ) I went ahead and took it all back to the wood with my original method 60 to 1000 grit fearing a disaster going any further I stopped . What am I doing wrong? I want so much to preserve a memory of my friend , I'm sure he'd be calling me something derogatory a sarcastic way if he could> thinking of that makes me laugh but looking at my results does not - I need help .Thank you for your time and any advise you can give me . -billy
Streaks as in scratches maybe from the 60 grit
Some finishes suggest only sanding 240 max. It has to do with the grain becoming to tight to allow the wood to absorb it. I apologize for the late response. If your still having trouble I’d be glad to help.
I’d start sanding at 220 and work to 320, the more you go up, the harder it is for the stain to penetrate. Your foam brush should work fine, but a natural bristle brush works awesome for me. Try thinning your urethane 10-40% it will help with the streaks. I sand at 400 after the first coat, then 600 for the rest. Make sure you clean a stupid amount after sanding each time. You’re making your friend proud by not giving up! You got this👍🏼
Bro the way you explained that was fire. I appreciate this.You should probably continue making videos like this. I’m subscribing
Made my day, thank you. I’m working on my edit style and hoping to put a few videos out this week. I really enjoy teaching but until I can do more “how to videos” I’ll try to just keep uploading cool projects.
Just a random question, but do you think the ultimate spar urethane water based is safe to use for planter boxes? Just wondering.
It’s definitely “safe”, the only downside would be weather resistance. Oil repels water so it’s typically stronger in an outdoor application but oil based products can be tricky to clean up.
Any tips for doing vertical pieces, like a headboard?
Oooo that’s tuff. Very very light application. Less is more, let it slowly build up.
Where can I get some of that wood? Great work!
All of our cedar is locally sourced in Waco,Texas
👍THANK YOU 🎨
🙏🙏🙏
Omg can you please help me out. The guy from home depot recommended me to use this on my hardwood floors. They came out great but after reading some comments, they say it shouldn't be used on floors. What is your opinion?
In touch up situations I can see this working well. Cost wise it maybe a lot compared to others. Typically hardwood floors are a polyurethane finish/ very similar. It is a much “darker” product than a water based product but if you like the look now you should be good with the quality of product.
On a larger surface like hardwood floors I suggest a poly that spreads and covers the area more freely/quickly, and dries quicker too. However, on an oak staircase (and oak bar) I used this product on both the banisters and steps almost 20 years ago. It is a very hardy surface and still looks excellent! Both good products. Spar urethane I believe would be more difficult/costly to use on large flooring. I love the look on table tops, bar tops, railings. My Dad turned me on to this product over 30 years ago. He was a life long woodworker. Opinions may very but I dig the product. (your comment was a year ago. How did it turn out?)
Is Oil based spar urethane clear satin good for a 20 year old cedar fence?
I would think so, but there might be cheaper options. Look into Thompson’s
What number sandpaper do i use on live edge cedar? Also, does it need a second coat of spar ploy?
I use 220 to take off imperfections of 1st coat. Then apply second coat. Let dry, then sand with 320 in between each coat going forward.
You can go as low as necessary but you have to work those swirls back out with higher grit sandpaper( if you go lower, don’t skip grits) . I would recommend no lower than 120 if it’s your first try. 220 is smooth enough to put a finish on.
Thanks for this video! What's the difference between Spar Urethane and Polyurethane? Is there a reason to use Poly instead of Spar?
Great question, Spar is an advanced version of a traditional polyurethane. Spar claims to provide more durability and more flexibility to help expand and contrast with the wood over time. I also find the oil based is a bit stronger outdoors with the advanced UV protection.
@@TexasArtCompany Thanks! It sounds like spar is altogether a better product, so I'm trying to figure out why anyone would use normal poly instead. Cheaper?
From my brief research, it appears that spar urethane is thicker, more protective, and flexible, while Poly is harder, tougher, and not as "gummy". Might be that poly is the best choice for furniture unless it's going outdoors?
I tend to agree, it sounds like you have covered all the basics. Poly as always been the go to choice for woodworkers but Spar seems to be a newer more advanced formula that makes up for any shortcomings a classic poly formula may have. It does add a richer "yellowish" hugh that may also be a draw back if the wood is a lighter natural tone. As well as a small cost difference and availability. As the market becomes more familiar with this formula we may find that it becomes the standard. Rust Oleum and Varathane offer a wide variety of both products in many different finishes and I think you have highlighted the need for me to compare them all.
Thank you for the support and feedback.
What kind of cloth do you use? Not sure what "non-fibered" is.
I’m sorry a (micro fiber) or old soft shirt works well
I've heard this stuff doesn't stand up to sun/weather exposure. What's your experience?
I have a few that have spent about 3 years in the Texas weather. If you are applying over raw wood I really like it. But be aware it will yellow over time (works well for most projects)
How would you do a table/bench that has a top made of slats
Check out a Spar or a Oil based urethane in a spray can. Then slowly apply in the right environment.
How many coats do you usually do? How heavy do you do future coats?
3 just about covers all the dry spots. 4 if your fancy 🙏🙏🙏
Do you mix it with little paint thinner?
I don’t not for this product
Does it need to be diluted as the instruction says ( to have a bubble free coat do not dilute) so isn't be thick if not diluted?
It’s definitely thick. But depending on the wood the first coat will absorb a lot. This products definitely takes patiences. I have personally never diluted, I could see how it would help the penetration of the product but I’ve found a light sand between coats to remove the bubbles works well. Once a full coat has sealed the top there shouldn’t be any more air pockets to produce bubbles. Really focusing on sealing the wood to reduce bubbles, then focus on a flawless finish.
@@TexasArtCompany so at the first coat shall i use the varnish with out being diluted so the wood can absorb it ? And what about air bubbles? Does diluting this varnish makes it more able to form bubbles?
@@ahmedhesham8980 diluting may help reduce the bubbles, but if you start with a lighter coat and build it up you shouldn’t trap a lot of bubbles. Less is more. Patients is key.
@@TexasArtCompany ok so what is the dilution percentage you sugest for best results
@@ahmedhesham8980 I have not tried myself. I wouldn’t do more than 10%
do you sand it then put another coat on??
You certainly can but I find it better to make sure the project is fully coated first. Some knots can take 3/4 coats to fully cover
what type of brush did you use?
Wooster Pro Poly, I find the Poly brush leaves a better finish over a natural bristle brush.
Tips on sanding between coats
Nothing lower then 220 grit. You can spray water to help reduce drag but be sure the surface is cured.
I would have like to see sanding step after varnish dries
Wonderful suggestion, I hope to make a video about this soon. Thank you for the support.
Can a foam brush be used for this?
I have not personally tried. If you do let us know how it goes.
@@TexasArtCompany I tried it with a brush on one piece and a foam brush on the other. oil-based spar urethane, The phone did better. But both had dozens of bubbles
Why use water based vs oil?
This product is an oil based product. But in general I would use oil based over water based. It requires more dry time and is a hard to clean up, but I feel the “warmer look” and durability from an oil based product gives a good finish. (The yellow hue may not be right for all projects). Water based has its pros as well and is much more forgiving.
How long do you wait for it to dry in between coats?
If it’s the first coat 2-4 hours or till it’s absorbed. A final coat over night
So we just add one coat?
It may take a few coats depending the type of wood.
@@TexasArtCompany poplar in a bathroom setting
Just one is enough?
The amount of coats will depend on the wood and end use. Some woods will soak it in depending on their species and how dry they are and may require more coats. You may also want to use more than one depending on how you plan to use the project.
@@TexasArtCompany It’s for a seating area should I do 3? 🤔
Less is always more with this product.
👍👍