I've used Restor-A-Finish since the late 1970's on all of my wood furniture and it's FANTASTIC. She is absolutely right about the poly finished pieces not responding to Restor-A-Finish, but on any older piece of wood furniture, it works beautifully and lasts for a long time. I live in a very dry, high altitude climate and Restor-A-Finish has protected all of my vintage and antique furniture from drying out and cracking. Love it!
Well done. Summary: Restor A Finish comes in 8 colors. It will fix very light scratches or white stains from cold drinks n hot drinks IF THE OLD FINISH IS SHELLAC OR LAQUER, but not fix the more modern polyurethane finishes - polyurethane or the other poly. To determine if shellac or lacquer, test rub an inconspicuous spot with a Q-tip with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). If the q-tip removes a tiny hint of finish, then it is shellac or lacquer.
A tip I found for the modern finishes, if you don’t want to sand it and stuff - use a stain pen in a matching color. Dab it on the scratch and dab off the excess. Let it dry. Walla! Good as new!
Due to the product being lacquer thinner with various stain colors, it will dissolve and bind only to shellac and lacquer finishes. A lot of antique finishes were varnish or enamel; a film residue of linseed oil. The expensive product can easily be made DIY. Be advised that older antiques were assembled using animal protein "hide glue" which crystalizes with alcohol products and parts start coming apart.
Found your video just after learning about Howard products. Definitely want to use Restor-a-Finish on my vintage bedroom suite but was concerned about dirt and buildup. You've given me as great tip with the 50-50 cleaner use before the restore product...so big THANKS! ❤
I agree 100 percent. I had a miraculous effect on kitchen cabinets, saving us from a huge replacement cost. Then, I tried to use the same product on a recently made wooden card table, and it was a disaster. It didn't restore the finish; if anything, it made big ugly and dull wipe marks and we had to go another way. So yes, this is a miraculous product for a lot of finished furnishings, and no, it doesn't work on the more recent items that are finished with a polyurethane stained finish.
Thank you! I was very recently trying to find some of this product locally and turns out it would be quite a drive to get it from the store who carries it. I had no idea about its efficacy on where I wanted to use it, now I do, and I can save my money, and time. Very helpful video. 👍🤗
Great info. I just bought this. Before I open up the can I will do the alcohol swab prior. I watched another channel by a person who swears by this stuff, but she did not mention testing the coat first. 👍
3:15 Thanks 😊 for your knowledge, I bought it and I was hesitant to use it. I was going to clean it with water only, now I will use a vinegar mixture. Both pieces are older and this seems the perfect solution. I don’t want to make it brand new I want to keep the age to it.
Very helpful! I wasn’t sure how to identify lacquer vs polyurethane finish, and now after watching your video I tested and it worked, indeed! Thank you!
BEST EXPLANATION!!! Work wonders on my guitar! My on my oak furniture the mahogany color gave it a beautiful redwood hue. Didn't do much on maple tho...Thanks!!!
Well this explains it. Somebody gave me a cabinet with some of the edges scraped off, I took it because I could just use the restore stuff I already had. I had the same results you did on that chair, nothing. This I knew was a crap furniture and was finished dark so the scrapes of the finish completely off stood out. Then I remembered I had a minwax scratch pen and it worked a treat. I had to put 2 coats in some places, but it looks new, and would work on your chair. Thanks. (the pens look almost like a sharpie, or exactly like that tide pen for stains, which they at least used to sell)
This is super helpful! I have a couple pieces at home that could definitely use a little bit of a makeover. I’m artsy - I’m NOT your girl when it comes to what I call heavy duty diy. Sanding? Id rather not. I have high hopes that this product can make my coffee tables and dresser look fresh with minimal effort on my part. Now I know how to go about it and how to figure out if it’s even going to work. Fingers crossed that these pieces are old enough to have the right kind of finish on!
Thank you for your tip to first wipe the surface with 50/50 vinegar/water. I have been using Howard restor-a- finish for years and never before thought to remove residual furniture polish before applying Howard's. I can recall now, times when there was clearly a build up of old wax polish that I should have cleaned first. I just never knew what to use. Now I do! Also, I used to leave the restor-a-finish on the surface for at least 30 minutes before wiping off the excess. Now that I learned that the product breaks down the original shellac or lacquer finish on my antiques, I will remove the excess as soon as I am satisfied with the color blending. Best!
I just used this stuff on my Poly finish Alder golden wood, and it worked 100% like a charm. Not sure why it didn't do anything for yours. I encourage anyone to try it regardless of the finish. This stuff is great.
Well researched and thoughtful. Other reviewers just slap it on willy-nilly. Critical to know that it only works for laquer or shellac when applied directly, and that any polyurethane-finished piece would still have to be sanded.
Used it on a 1923 mahogany Victor vv215 record player cabinet. The cabinet was in near perfect condition, just needed a couple minor nicks covered and to bring back some pop to the finish, worked great.
Thank you! I just bought two antique/vintage furniture pieces (one 1940s & one 1960s) and the finish on them both is, understandably, pretty tired. I don’t want to strip them back until next summer (I’m in Scotland, so winter is not the time for these things unless you have a huge shed) and wanted to just improve the worn bits for aesthetics in the meantime. I’ll go and buy this in the colours I need and use your advice to get a decent finish 😀
Thank you! I learned something useful today. ETA, and sorry if this sounds dumb, but how do you decide on the colour(s) to buy with eight to choose from if you can't bring the items to the store for a match, like say, my kitchen cupboard? I suppose getting some swatches beforehand would do the trick!
Well, with a true full stain situations that is more difficult. However as this product is made with blending in mind it just needs to be close. That being said, I’m not the only one to haul a drawer with me into a hardware store so I could get a good match. I’ve also bought plenty of stain that doesn’t match, but will work great for the next project.😊
The video I saw used steel wool to apply using a circular pattern It eliminated all the scratches The steel wool gets the color down in the scratch grooves worked wonders
Interesting technique but with a poly topcoat that still probably wouldn't work. In my test I tried using 0000 steel wool as the container recommends and still no luck. Because the touch of solvent that is in RAF doesn't work on polyurethane. Now if a person used a stronger steel wool and basically scratched off the poly coat then RAF could go in a stain the scratched area but I'm not sure it could fill and blend the area very well.
Thank you for this! Great recommendation by the algorithm. I just bought some of this stuff after watching another video that was recommended to me, and since you shared how to test if it will work, i can rest assured knowing it will work for my pieces.
A tip I found for the modern finishes, if you don’t want to sand it and stuff - use a stain pen in a matching color. Dab it on the scratch and dab off the excess. Let it dry. Walla! Good as new!
Funny you should mention that as I just tried one of those pens. Not sure if my scratches weren’t deep enough or what but I did not get the best results Do repair markers or pencils work on scratched poly-coated wood? th-cam.com/video/NWjJ2ao2NnQ/w-d-xo.html
I picked up a large computer desk with enclosing doors. Oak and very thirsty looking. I guess the clue is it was not shiny so not poly. Restor did in an excellent job reviving the finish. I did half with one color and then forgot which color and half with a different shade but they are close enough. Most wouldn't notice.
Odds are you are correct. You could try the rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab test. Of course do it on the back or perhaps bottom of the piece. Good luck
Thanks for the video and instructions. I’m not sure which colour to choose. Do you know if there are photos anywhere that show what all the final colours look like?
I’m not an expert, but it’s been my experience that it doesn’t have to be as precise as you would if you were trying to re-stain a piece using just stain. That being said, if you are working with a lighter piece I would suggest being more particular with the light version of it. But generally, as it is working with the stain, that’s already on the piece, it tends to blend rather well so long as you are in the ballpark and the repair area is not that large.
Wow, thank you! That’s quite a compliment. Never heard the comparison before but it’s funny as I do voice work as well. NOWHERE NEAR HER LEVEL but in at least one airport I’m the voice you hear telling people with guide dogs what gate they can find a rest area 🤭
Thank you for keeping to the point. I'm about to attempt my first restoration and I am sure it is a shellac finish. However, There are some bad gouges in the wood which will need filling. Will this colour the filling also, please?
Having not seen the gouges I wonder if the technique with a damp towel and an iron to get them out? Unfortunately I have no experience with wood filler and Restore-A-Finsh so I don’t know. But it sounds like it will work for the rest of the piece so it won’t be a waste. Will be interested in hearing if it works for you.
Correct, technically alcohol will readily dissolve shellac, and it will slowly soften lacquer. But that alcohol swab test is the easiest way to know if that product will work.
Not at all sure. My guess (NOT AN EXPERT) is it would be a case of yes and no. If there is an underlying stain you might be able match it with Restore but would then have to wax the piece…Or is it wax based as in the natural wax that shellac usually comes with? That would be a yes, make sure not to use too much or leave it on too long. Is it totally a French wax where time builds up an amber? Might not be good at all. You could try an inconspicuous spot first (underside, back inside leg or drawer interior) hopefully you have some other piece that you are sure it will help. Sorry I don’t have a definitive answer for you.
@@AskingSpot thanks for replying! I'm a woodworker so I tend to be good at figuring out exactly what finish is used but I've got this 200 year old French bed and I can't tell what's been used. I had to clean years of dust and gunk gently off and it doesn't seem as waxy now. Perhaps there was a beeswax used over the original finish. Might have to experiment with restor a finish and see how it goes!
True however Polyacrylic is a high-molecular-weight composite of acryl and polyacrylamide, usually derived from a polyacrylamide gel. Generally speaking Polyacrylic is always water based Polyurethane is either water or oil based but more often thought of as oil based.
Thanks for sharing! I have a question which I don't seem to be able to find answers anywhere else and would love to hear some insights from you! Do you know how long I should keep the re-finished furniture in a well-ventilated area until I can bring it back to my house and use the furniture safely?
I don’t have an official answer on that either. In my opinion, if I no longer smell it and it is dry, I can take it in. If it gets used for food or kids I give it no less than 5 days and as much as 30. Good luck
@@AskingSpotthank you for the detailed answer! That helps me reduce my fear a lot!!! Yeah totally get the food and kids part, it doesn’t hurt by being over precautious😊
Man, I have inherited a beautiful cherry wood furniture set and the bedroom set is all wierd looking. It's has nicks, smokey areas from I assume trapped moisture but on a footboard???? Blotches from the cherry stain on cherry wood - I don't know why either, and I am kind of shocked. I took some Murphys oil soap to it and the built up "slime" kimd of moved with the direction of the rag but didn't come off. I'm thinking pledge but pledge made my debroom oak set look absolutely stunning but I maintained it like a new born. I love oak gosh that honey warm feel and the grain - uh it's perfect. This cherry though is ....... to high end for me to put pledge on, I can't figure this one and don't want to learn on it either. The vinegar I know would work, it is absolutely reasonable but ..... I would hate to dry out the cherry. I'm almost at a point of taking it in for a full restoration but leave it at a natural look so it ages beautifully on its own with oil and beeswax at the end if recommended or just oil. I think - never been able to afford cherry furniture -but if you allow it to age naturally it will become so magnificent the older it gets. Some woods you shouldn't rush amd allow it to be itself and I think cherry is one of them. Again, I grew up with nothing more than muscle and anger so I haven't been able to watch cherry wood do anything ever. I do know it's sought after and high end so that tells me maybe just maybe if I left it to nature it's best. The scary thing.....label says made in China so ............................I do t know what side of that blade I should lean on. Go on and strip that bad boy and redo it myself because it says China made or ..... explain my self to a pro and let them guide the process
Wow a lot to consider. Not being able to see it makes it a tough call. I will say this, the Restore A Finish most likely will not help with trapped moisture. Cleaning with Murphy’s was a great first step. As for the vinegar water mix, that will with unfinished wood, raise grain. But when a solid top coat is on, using it occasionally to get rid of furniture polish residue should not harm it. Although I’m not sure that would be the right remedy for your situation. No matter what you try, always test in a spot that won’t be noticeable. If you can take perhaps a drawer of this bedroom set to your local hardware store you might be able to get some great advice! Good luck, and for what it’s worth I inherited a table from my mom that I love the shape of just not the color. It’s been over 10 years and I still haven’t gotten around to changing it😁
@@WhistlingMeg this is the follow up video that might help th-cam.com/video/NWjJ2ao2NnQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CqQe2Rk5uxDIE3Qm Unfortunately, there is not as easy of a fix when you have a poly top.
Hmm, my guess is no. Because most durable topcoat for wood floors are probably some form of synthetic (polyurethane?!) Have you tried the rubbing alcohol test?
I just wanted to find out if we have to worry about old furniture lacquer or schlack or any type of gloss because I NEVER worried about that on just Natural looking wood. I thought lead was only inside of colored or white paint but I just want to make sure because I heard something somewhere that I wasn't sure anymore but from other searches it looks like it doesn't usually have it but since you're an expert on it please let us know. I had several items that I wanted to buy and I've had things I've bought in the be sure about the new ones I'm about to buy... As the weather this needs to be a concern or not.
Well, I’m definitely not an expert. But from what I’ve read lead is only in paint with color, it helped with the density of the paint. Shellac and lacquer do not contain it and your understanding of clear finishes not having it is the same as mine. There are kits you can buy to detect lead, too.
As an inorganic chemist and former faculty member, two thumbs up for clarity, completeness, and accuracy. And your joy.
Wow, thanks I’m honored!
An illustrious former faculty member…
I e seen many channels where Restore -A-Finish is used, and I don’t remember any talking about what finish it will work on. Great tip!
I liked the little humorous video clips -- AND the info!
Thank you!
Thank you! Especially on the polyurethane test. You saved me time and money. My table seems to be covered with the PU.
Excellent! That is always my goal, to help people save time and money.
I've used Restor-A-Finish since the late 1970's on all of my wood furniture and it's FANTASTIC. She is absolutely right about the poly finished pieces not responding to Restor-A-Finish, but on any older piece of wood furniture, it works beautifully and lasts for a long time. I live in a very dry, high altitude climate and Restor-A-Finish has protected all of my vintage and antique furniture from drying out and cracking. Love it!
Thank you for your information!
Thanks for your advice about the alcohol test. It saved me $10.
Well done. Summary: Restor A Finish comes in 8 colors. It will fix very light scratches or white stains from cold drinks n hot drinks IF THE OLD FINISH IS SHELLAC OR LAQUER, but not fix the more modern polyurethane finishes - polyurethane or the other poly. To determine if shellac or lacquer, test rub an inconspicuous spot with a Q-tip with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). If the q-tip removes a tiny hint of finish, then it is shellac or lacquer.
A tip I found for the modern finishes, if you don’t want to sand it and stuff - use a stain pen in a matching color. Dab it on the scratch and dab off the excess. Let it dry.
Walla! Good as new!
Due to the product being lacquer thinner with various stain colors, it will dissolve and bind only to shellac and lacquer finishes. A lot of antique finishes were varnish or enamel; a film residue of linseed oil. The expensive product can easily be made DIY. Be advised that older antiques were assembled using animal protein "hide glue" which crystalizes with alcohol products and parts start coming apart.
Great info, missed by other reviews, also appreciate the British comedian clips 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Found your video just after learning about Howard products. Definitely want to use Restor-a-Finish on my vintage bedroom suite but was concerned about dirt and buildup. You've given me as great tip with the 50-50 cleaner use before the restore product...so big THANKS! ❤
Glad it was helpful!
I agree 100 percent. I had a miraculous effect on kitchen cabinets, saving us from a huge replacement cost. Then, I tried to use the same product on a recently made wooden card table, and it was a disaster. It didn't restore the finish; if anything, it made big ugly and dull wipe marks and we had to go another way. So yes, this is a miraculous product for a lot of finished furnishings, and no, it doesn't work on the more recent items that are finished with a polyurethane stained finish.
Were you able to fix the card table? The same thing happened to me and I ruined my dressers 😢
Thank you! I was very recently trying to find some of this product locally and turns out it would be quite a drive to get it from the store who carries it. I had no idea about its efficacy on where I wanted to use it, now I do, and I can save my money, and time. Very helpful video. 👍🤗
It was learning the hard way that prompted me to share, glad this was helpful!
@@AskingSpot 😊💞
Great info. I just bought this. Before I open up the can I will do the alcohol swab prior. I watched another channel by a person who swears by this stuff, but she did not mention testing the coat first. 👍
When it is right for a piece it is fantastic! Good luck
you pick up info from different restorers.
You can still stain the scratches. I use a colord furniture polish or marker.
Yeah, I'm a Sharpie fixer myself! Not 100% but 90% and it's much better than glaring scratches.
3:15 Thanks 😊 for your knowledge, I bought it and I was hesitant to use it.
I was going to clean it with water only, now I will use a vinegar mixture.
Both pieces are older and this seems the perfect solution.
I don’t want to make it brand new I want to keep the age to it.
Be sure to test first, in an inconspicuous spot, everything. From cleaning to Restore-A-Finish. It’s better to be safe than sorry! Good luck👍
Very helpful! I wasn’t sure how to identify lacquer vs polyurethane finish, and now after watching your video I tested and it worked, indeed! Thank you!
Very happy to hear I could be of help!
BEST EXPLANATION!!! Work wonders on my guitar! My on my oak furniture the mahogany color gave it a beautiful redwood hue. Didn't do much on maple tho...Thanks!!!
Thanks Margie! Love the comedy bits. I appreciate a chuckle whenever I can get one!
Well this explains it. Somebody gave me a cabinet with some of the edges scraped off, I took it because I could just use the restore stuff I already had. I had the same results you did on that chair, nothing. This I knew was a crap furniture and was finished dark so the scrapes of the finish completely off stood out. Then I remembered I had a minwax scratch pen and it worked a treat. I had to put 2 coats in some places, but it looks new, and would work on your chair. Thanks. (the pens look almost like a sharpie, or exactly like that tide pen for stains, which they at least used to sell)
Glad this helped and thanks for the Minwax pen reminder! May try a video on them 🙂
All modern furniture is finished with polyurethane, since maybe 1970 or 1980.That doesn't make it crap.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR TELLING HOW TO KNOW WHAT KIND OF FINISH YOUR PIECES HAVE 😀
Use this all the time in my cleaning business. Last year i did some outdoor wood rockers. They did great this year!
@@tigq1430 it is a remarkable product!
The last tip about the laquear topping is great. I am about to buy the product and need to check my table before I buy it. Thank you
Glad to be of help!
I love this product. It works wonders covering scratches.❤
I use the restorer for sprucing up cabinets. Works really well.Saves me time and the customer money.😊
This made me smile over your editing inserts!
Thank you I tried to keep it fun
This is super helpful! I have a couple pieces at home that could definitely use a little bit of a makeover. I’m artsy - I’m NOT your girl when it comes to what I call heavy duty diy. Sanding? Id rather not. I have high hopes that this product can make my coffee tables and dresser look fresh with minimal effort on my part. Now I know how to go about it and how to figure out if it’s even going to work. Fingers crossed that these pieces are old enough to have the right kind of finish on!
Yay, so glad I could be of help!
Love your sense of humor.
Not only did I learn a lot from this video (thank you!), but also I love your voice. It's very warm and soothing.
That’s the nicest compliment, thank you!
Thank you for your tip to first wipe the surface with 50/50 vinegar/water. I have been using Howard restor-a- finish for years and never before thought to remove residual furniture polish before applying Howard's. I can recall now, times when there was clearly a build up of old wax polish that I should have cleaned first. I just never knew what to use. Now I do!
Also, I used to leave the restor-a-finish on the surface for at least 30 minutes before wiping off the excess. Now that I learned that the product breaks down the original shellac or lacquer finish on my antiques, I will remove the excess as soon as I am satisfied with the color blending. Best!
Glad I could be of help and really glad to hear your antiques are being taken care of!
I have just used this on my antiques wow they look new
very helpful, Margie, thanks!
Thank you!
I just used this stuff on my Poly finish Alder golden wood, and it worked 100% like a charm. Not sure why it didn't do anything for yours. I encourage anyone to try it regardless of the finish. This stuff is great.
I use 50/50 mineral turps and metholated (white) spirits where there has been a poly coating.
Well researched and thoughtful. Other reviewers just slap it on willy-nilly. Critical to know that it only works for laquer or shellac when applied directly, and that any polyurethane-finished piece would still have to be sanded.
That was so helpful. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Used it on a 1923 mahogany Victor vv215 record player cabinet. The cabinet was in near perfect condition, just needed a couple minor nicks covered and to bring back some pop to the finish, worked great.
Wow that sounds like a fantastic piece!
This product is a miracle in a can!
Thank you!
I just bought two antique/vintage furniture pieces (one 1940s & one 1960s) and the finish on them both is, understandably, pretty tired. I don’t want to strip them back until next summer (I’m in Scotland, so winter is not the time for these things unless you have a huge shed) and wanted to just improve the worn bits for aesthetics in the meantime. I’ll go and buy this in the colours I need and use your advice to get a decent finish 😀
Wonder, the pieces sound great! Good luck
You’re awesome lady, thanks!😊
Love your video, thank you! Love the funny clips 😀
Wow thanks 🙏
Finally, I understand! Thank you.
Thank you! I learned something useful today.
ETA, and sorry if this sounds dumb, but how do you decide on the colour(s) to buy with eight to choose from if you can't bring the items to the store for a match, like say, my kitchen cupboard? I suppose getting some swatches beforehand would do the trick!
Well, with a true full stain situations that is more difficult. However as this product is made with blending in mind it just needs to be close. That being said, I’m not the only one to haul a drawer with me into a hardware store so I could get a good match. I’ve also bought plenty of stain that doesn’t match, but will work great for the next project.😊
@@AskingSpot Thanks! One less item on my list of things that niggle at me.
Excellent info and a file clip title! Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you that was extremely helpful.
Thanks that was very helpful. I am new to this game and have lots of furniture from my ancestors to salvage.
Oh, that sounds challenging and fun! Good luck 👍
Great information. This answered my questions
Glad to be of help!
The video I saw used steel wool to apply using a circular pattern
It eliminated all the scratches The steel wool gets the color down in the scratch grooves worked wonders
Interesting technique but with a poly topcoat that still probably wouldn't work. In my test I tried using 0000 steel wool as the container recommends and still no luck. Because the touch of solvent that is in RAF doesn't work on polyurethane. Now if a person used a stronger steel wool and basically scratched off the poly coat then RAF could go in a stain the scratched area but I'm not sure it could fill and blend the area very well.
Awesome! Comment on the rubbing alcohol, I'm going to have some tricks next time my boyfriend comes around LOL
Thank you for this! Great recommendation by the algorithm. I just bought some of this stuff after watching another video that was recommended to me, and since you shared how to test if it will work, i can rest assured knowing it will work for my pieces.
Good luck! Made this because I learned the hard way it wouldn’t work on everything😁
A tip I found for the modern finishes, if you don’t want to sand it and stuff - use a stain pen in a matching color. Dab it on the scratch and dab off the excess. Let it dry.
Walla! Good as new!
Funny you should mention that as I just tried one of those pens. Not sure if my scratches weren’t deep enough or what but I did not get the best results Do repair markers or pencils work on scratched poly-coated wood?
th-cam.com/video/NWjJ2ao2NnQ/w-d-xo.html
Such great information.
I'm going to do the q-tip alcohol test.
After the vinegar was.
Oh Lord, I don't like sanding.
Wash
Vinegar wash
Good luck, if it can work it is fantastically easy to work with😉
I picked up a large computer desk with enclosing doors. Oak and very thirsty looking. I guess the clue is it was not shiny so not poly. Restor did in an excellent job reviving the finish. I did half with one color and then forgot which color and half with a different shade but they are close enough. Most wouldn't notice.
When it’s the right product for the task, it’s a wonder! Color wise it is sort of forgiving too. Glad it worked for you 😊
That was helpful. Thanks for posting.
Great info that I did not find anywhere else. Thank you!
Excellent information! Thank you.
I almost got this product. Not sure of the finish yet. Thanks! I hate returning stuff
Thank you for the alcohol tip....just what I needed
Glad to be of help!
Thanks
Love the small clips. Made me laugh. Subscribed!
Thanks for the sub and glad you enjoyed!
Very helpful Thanks! Subscribed and liked
Thanks for the sub!
That was educational. Ty
Touch up on poly, you can get stain markers or waxes that will fill in the dings.
@@kimwaltz6114 on the piece I was trying to work on those methods did not work that great. I have a future video that showed my experience.
Great video!
The Mrs. Maggie Miyaggi of furniture restoration.
"Wipe on, Wipe off, Sniff in Sniff out, & You're tripp'n"
I want to refinish a clock case from the 1920s. I'm guessing it's likely shellac, but maybe it could also be lacquer.
Odds are you are correct. You could try the rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab test. Of course do it on the back or perhaps bottom of the piece. Good luck
thx...good info....
Very informative!
Thanks for the video and instructions. I’m not sure which colour to choose. Do you know if there are photos anywhere that show what all the final colours look like?
I’m not an expert, but it’s been my experience that it doesn’t have to be as precise as you would if you were trying to re-stain a piece using just stain. That being said, if you are working with a lighter piece I would suggest being more particular with the light version of it. But generally, as it is working with the stain, that’s already on the piece, it tends to blend rather well so long as you are in the ballpark and the repair area is not that large.
Thank you so much…couldn’t work out what the heck I was doing wrong with this product 👍subscribed
Thank you! Generally, I’m just sharing info on what has stumped me in hopes I save someone else some time. 😄
This is really helpful, thanks. I take it this wouldn't work on wood that only has an oil finish? Thanks
That would be my guess, that you are correct. If the alcohol test has no effect that would be your best indicator.
that was an insanely helpful video! thank you
Thank you!
Very helpful thanks!
Thanks
I wish I could upload a photo so someone could tell me of this will work on my RV cabinets.
Try the cotton swap and rubbing alcohol test?
Great video Thanks!
Soooo helpful, you are the best!
I try, thanks!
Good info. Thanks!
Oh my WORD had anyone ever told you that you look like Jodi Benson? Great info, but also, you're super gorgeous
Wow, thank you! That’s quite a compliment. Never heard the comparison before but it’s funny as I do voice work as well. NOWHERE NEAR HER LEVEL but in at least one airport I’m the voice you hear telling people with guide dogs what gate they can find a rest area 🤭
Useful info thank you 😊
Can you do a video on sanding and refinishing with polyurethane
Hmm, those chairs still need help, may have too 🤔
Thank you for keeping to the point. I'm about to attempt my first restoration and I am sure it is a shellac finish. However, There are some bad gouges in the wood which will need filling. Will this colour the filling also, please?
Having not seen the gouges I wonder if the technique with a damp towel and an iron to get them out? Unfortunately I have no experience with wood filler and Restore-A-Finsh so I don’t know. But it sounds like it will work for the rest of the piece so it won’t be a waste. Will be interested in hearing if it works for you.
Thank you so much. That was super useful!!
Thank you!
Well done, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Margie, lacquer will not break down with alcohol , Shellac or spirit varnishes will disolve in alcohol.
Correct, technically alcohol will readily dissolve shellac, and it will slowly soften lacquer. But that alcohol swab test is the easiest way to know if that product will work.
Wow, thank you for valuable info🤩
You’re welcome 😊 Thanks for letting me know
Hi, great video! So helpful! Do you know if this would work if the old finish on the antique is more wax based?
Not at all sure. My guess (NOT AN EXPERT) is it would be a case of yes and no. If there is an underlying stain you might be able match it with Restore but would then have to wax the piece…Or is it wax based as in the natural wax that shellac usually comes with? That would be a yes, make sure not to use too much or leave it on too long. Is it totally a French wax where time builds up an amber? Might not be good at all. You could try an inconspicuous spot first (underside, back inside leg or drawer interior) hopefully you have some other piece that you are sure it will help. Sorry I don’t have a definitive answer for you.
@@AskingSpot thanks for replying! I'm a woodworker so I tend to be good at figuring out exactly what finish is used but I've got this 200 year old French bed and I can't tell what's been used. I had to clean years of dust and gunk gently off and it doesn't seem as waxy now. Perhaps there was a beeswax used over the original finish. Might have to experiment with restor a finish and see how it goes!
Excellent tutorial!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks! I tried it on a wooden chair and it did nothing. Next step, stain. 😢
@@Asiansxsymbol Thanks for watching. Good luck, chairs are tedious at best, hope it doesn’t have too main spindles.
Thank you
You're welcome
Polycrylic is a brand name of the Minwax company. It's polyurethane.
True however Polyacrylic is a high-molecular-weight composite of acryl and polyacrylamide, usually derived from a polyacrylamide gel. Generally speaking Polyacrylic is always water based Polyurethane is either water or oil based but more often thought of as oil based.
@@AskingSpot Thanks for the clarification. I thought they were both water-based.
"Embroidery Museum Grows looks very interesting. I can't find any more information on it. Can you share a link?
Its just my other hobby th-cam.com/video/9GBFcpBOMeU/w-d-xo.html 😊 this is part one th-cam.com/video/33VyEgiRJQI/w-d-xo.html
Great - thanks
Thanks for sharing! I have a question which I don't seem to be able to find answers anywhere else and would love to hear some insights from you! Do you know how long I should keep the re-finished furniture in a well-ventilated area until I can bring it back to my house and use the furniture safely?
I don’t have an official answer on that either. In my opinion, if I no longer smell it and it is dry, I can take it in. If it gets used for food or kids I give it no less than 5 days and as much as 30. Good luck
@@AskingSpotthank you for the detailed answer! That helps me reduce my fear a lot!!! Yeah totally get the food and kids part, it doesn’t hurt by being over precautious😊
Thanks for the info!
Glad to be of help!
Man, I have inherited a beautiful cherry wood furniture set and the bedroom set is all wierd looking. It's has nicks, smokey areas from I assume trapped moisture but on a footboard???? Blotches from the cherry stain on cherry wood - I don't know why either, and I am kind of shocked. I took some Murphys oil soap to it and the built up "slime" kimd of moved with the direction of the rag but didn't come off. I'm thinking pledge but pledge made my debroom oak set look absolutely stunning but I maintained it like a new born. I love oak gosh that honey warm feel and the grain - uh it's perfect. This cherry though is ....... to high end for me to put pledge on, I can't figure this one and don't want to learn on it either. The vinegar I know would work, it is absolutely reasonable but ..... I would hate to dry out the cherry.
I'm almost at a point of taking it in for a full restoration but leave it at a natural look so it ages beautifully on its own with oil and beeswax at the end if recommended or just oil.
I think - never been able to afford cherry furniture -but if you allow it to age naturally it will become so magnificent the older it gets. Some woods you shouldn't rush amd allow it to be itself and I think cherry is one of them. Again, I grew up with nothing more than muscle and anger so I haven't been able to watch cherry wood do anything ever. I do know it's sought after and high end so that tells me maybe just maybe if I left it to nature it's best. The scary thing.....label says made in China so ............................I do t know what side of that blade I should lean on. Go on and strip that bad boy and redo it myself because it says China made or ..... explain my self to a pro and let them guide the process
Wow a lot to consider. Not being able to see it makes it a tough call. I will say this, the Restore A Finish most likely will not help with trapped moisture. Cleaning with Murphy’s was a great first step. As for the vinegar water mix, that will with unfinished wood, raise grain. But when a solid top coat is on, using it occasionally to get rid of furniture polish residue should not harm it. Although I’m not sure that would be the right remedy for your situation. No matter what you try, always test in a spot that won’t be noticeable. If you can take perhaps a drawer of this bedroom set to your local hardware store you might be able to get some great advice! Good luck, and for what it’s worth I inherited a table from my mom that I love the shape of just not the color. It’s been over 10 years and I still haven’t gotten around to changing it😁
@AskingSpot thanks for the advice. Old furniture is kind of cool I have to admit it. Thanks again and good luck.
Oh boy, just bought this for my chairs. If polyurethane, what products would you use, like for your chair there?
@@WhistlingMeg this is the follow up video that might help th-cam.com/video/NWjJ2ao2NnQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CqQe2Rk5uxDIE3Qm Unfortunately, there is not as easy of a fix when you have a poly top.
Will this work on wood floors? 🤔🤔🤔this would be great if it could.
Depends if they're varnished or polyurethaned. See her test in the video.
Hmm, my guess is no. Because most durable topcoat for wood floors are probably some form of synthetic (polyurethane?!) Have you tried the rubbing alcohol test?
Great info, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
I just wanted to find out if we have to worry about old furniture lacquer or schlack or any type of gloss because I NEVER worried about that on just Natural looking wood. I thought lead was only inside of colored or white paint but I just want to make sure because I heard something somewhere that I wasn't sure anymore but from other searches it looks like it doesn't usually have it but since you're an expert on it please let us know. I had several items that I wanted to buy and I've had things I've bought in the be sure about the new ones I'm about to buy... As the weather this needs to be a concern or not.
Well, I’m definitely not an expert. But from what I’ve read lead is only in paint with color, it helped with the density of the paint. Shellac and lacquer do not contain it and your understanding of clear finishes not having it is the same as mine. There are kits you can buy to detect lead, too.
It's exactly what I needed. Thank youuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu
You're welcome!!!!!!!!!