After a zillion videos that weren't super helpful I came across this. Very straightforward, simple, and to the point. Best video I've seen by far, not even close. Now to finish staining my stairs!
Great video, this part is always skipped in the tutorials I've read/watched online so it's nice to see someone finally demonstrate and explain, thank you!
Exactly what i was looking for -- thanks for the brief yet real-time demo. Over-sanded my 1st coat of Poly and am receivong contradictory advice from expert friends 😉 So I am using your feather technique with 600 wrapped around a palm-sized block. I know how much work it is to clear the set for filiming, and to light, narrate, and edit these pieces -- so very many thanks from all os us 👍👍
Glad it was helpful! I get equally frusturated on most topcoat cans the instructions are to sand inbetween coats with 220 grit. It's still too rough. I recommend anywhere between 400-600 grit.
You really have a way of explaining that's detailed, focused and ,at least to me, exude as genuine. I feel you are a fantastic instructor. Thank you for the much needed tip!
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 Yes...I am at the moment varnishing the top of an ivory sideboard with *Black* (chalk based) paint. The first coat of (oil based) Polly went on just ok (quite a few blemishes) etc. So, I hope that tomorrow I can sand the top down with a fine grade sandpaper....and then 'roll' on another coat of polly. Here we go....fingers crossed!
Thank you for this. I wish I'd seen this before taking my orbital sander to sand between topcoats. Now I'm going to apply two more coats following your method to restore some of the excess poly I took off. Thankfully I'm using water based, so it dries very quickly.
Thank you! This is so helpful. I was always afraid to sand between coats because I didn’t want to scratch my finish with sand paper, and steel wool seemed too aggressive. I’ll look for 400/500 grit and start expecting better results!
Wonderful! I'm glad you found this video helpful. I wouldn't use steel wool, it is to aggressive and it leaves those little fibers behind. Definitely go the 400/500 girt route. Best of luck!
Very good info.. Back in the 1990s I was doing some wood working projects, and my sanding was back and forth.. I can see this is much better in keeping the surface all the same "as in flat". As soon as it warms up, I'll have to do a little wood working again, so I'll use this technique from now on..
Great vid!! I love your technique for guiding the foam pad/sand paper across the entire length. I have 3 shelves for a stereo rack to do tomorrow, so your video came in real handy👍👍 I too use General Finishes Top Coat Datin.
Bethany, 1rst rule - DONT let anyone tell you, you are doing anything wrong if you are getting the results you like. You sand between top coats very different than me, but it surely doesn’t make you wrong. If you worked for us, we would say, “Do what gives you, your best results” We had 2 gentleman working for us, one used a Dremel to replicate applied carvings & one used his own very expensive Swiss made, carving knives. You can imagine the conflict between those 2. At the end of the day, you couldn’t tell a difference between their finished carvings & they took relatively the same time to make. It’s the tools & techniques that work for you ! Absolutely agree with you on the tack cloth. We don’t use them at all & have very professional results & we do nothing more than blow the dust off & then wipe the piece with our bare hands. 3 coats is a relative target. You are actually, visually gauging mil thickness of your finish. On rare days, you can hit the sheen you like in 2 coats, but rarely in our case. The older & more dry the piece or softer more absorbent grained wood, we have sprayed as many as 10 coats. Most often 4 or 5 coats. Our staunch rule is this - If you step back after your last coat & ask yourself, “Does it need another coat ??” Give it another coat. We spray everything. Our 1rst coat is always light, 2nd coat is wet & heavy as it will have good cling to the 1rst light coat & 3 coat is just a good solid final wet coat. Coats beyond 3rd will most often be lighter as we go. & yep, we sand between each of the coats. You do beautiful professional work. You stick with what gives you results you are happy with. Don’t let any of the “arm chair warriors” or “seasoned professionals” tell you that you are doing anything wrong. Pick & choose your techniques based on what makes sense to you ! Keep up the gorgeous work, your skills are worth every penny you charge & much more.
Hey Tommy, What an insightful comment! Thank you for the encouragement! This line of work is so hard and time consuming at times. I'm completely self taught and I'm no where near the level I want to be. I'm constantly learning (and making mistakes) but I do love this work. I agree 100%! So many people come looking on TH-cam for the magic potion/method when it comes to restoration work and honestly it's all about find what works best for you. I may love a method and the next person may hate it and not have the best results. You really need to try some different methods, different products and find which ones you personally love. I wish I had the ventilation system set up to spray topcoats but I work mainly in my basement and that's why I go the brush on route. Someday I'll have a better set up. For now I'm thankful I at least have a nice basement.
When you go over the finish with your sandpaper, does it matter if you go with/against the grain of the wood? My piece has the wood going in four different directions and I don’t want to sand the wrong way
In that case you have two options...I've done both ways. Either pick a direction say left to right and sand that way down the entire piece OR sand carefully in each direction of the different grains.
I have a Waterstain on a piece of furniture (looks a little white!) The furniture is dark. I'm guessing I have to stain or paint it to repair this piece. Please give me your expert opinion! Thx
So what you are dealing with is moisture in the wood. Sometimes you can steam it out with heat. That's a 50/50 chance that will work. Place a towel over the water stain and use an iron to try to steam it out. Google Bob Villa and water stains on wood. He gives a step by step on this method. Others have used a hair dryer. It all depends how old the water ring is and the type of wood.
I'm new to furniture redo's, I did one bathroom cabinet with some transfers on it but I think I used polyurethane instead of polychrelic.and now it turned yellow😢.plus, I never did 3 coats and never sanded in between coats. I am so glad I watched your tutorial. I learned so much I may attempt to do a small table. Thank you for sharing your knowledge 😊
Glad I’ve seen this, even if it’s too late for most of my current project. I’ve been getting so frustrated being able to see micro scratches between coats and my solution was to just sand more in the hope it would buff the scratches out. It mostly works, probably because I’m just removing more poly 🙈 turns out 220 grit between coats is really just too low.
Oh NOOOOOO! That really stinks! I hope you increased your sanding grit to at least 400. It won't create those mirco scratches that you have been experiencing.
Thank you so much for this tutorial. As this is my very first staining/poly'ing so this was an awesome and informative video. You answered many of my burning questions like sandpaper grit between coats, drying time for oil-based poly and number of coats that should be applied to my trash picked dining room table. Great video.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 I watched this video only after I made a mistake. I used 220 grit after my first coat and now my second coat has dried and you can see the sanding marks 😅
Thank you for a great video! I am painting my very first piece of furniture this weekend. Eeekkk! I’ve sanded, used the red bullseye primer, will now get the block and sand paper before I paint. I’m so nervous!
You got this! Question…the primer…does it have shellac in it? Also what color are you painting the piece of furniture? I ask these questions because the lighter color you use you want to make sure you use a primer with Shellac in it or you can just use Shellac alone. Shellac is used to block stains in the wood and to block wood tannins that may come to the surface.
This is the EXACT tutorial I was looking for. I was getting so frustrated after having to redo my whole bench again! This sanding technique leaves such a perfect finish. It really makes a difference. Thank you for saving my project!
Very good. I wish I saw this video before I ruined my finish on my table top. I followed the instructions on the can and used a 220 grit sandpaper that took off some of my stain. Don’t know how to fix this without starting over. Can you help me⁉️❓
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 Hello. I also used 220 on my chair seats. I stopped on the second chair seat and came to youtube and found your video. I'll do as you suggest on the other two seats and table top. I think I'll now have to really sand down the first two seats and start over again on them.
I used a Polyurethane on a piece of furniture I painted black. I sanded with 220 very lightly and it turned extremely streaky. Do I need to start all over or do I try to add another coat of polyurethane?
That depends. Sorry to be vague. Topcoats over black paint can be tricky. Since the paint is probably water based/acrylic you are putting an oil based topcoat (poly) over it. The paint is usually porous and it sucks the poly in almost immediately creating streaks. I personally like to use black wax or hemp oil over black painted pieces. I did once have some luck with a water based poly spray in a can over black paint.
I applied 3 coats of General Finishes dead flat topcoat to an old painted pie safe. The topcoat significantly dulled the look of the paint. I’d like to remove the topcoat and start over with a different General Finishes topcoat. Is there a way to do this without removing the paint? Thanks.
Wish I followed your instructions before tackling my project lol Sanded, stained, first coat of poly, looked flawless. Then I lightly sanded with 320 by hand and applied second coat of poly. I now have microscratches all of my live edge piece. Infuriating. Good thing I started with the bottom. I will be doing YOUR METHOD to the top.
Oh nooooooo! Unfortunately I think a lot of us have had similar experiences. I know on most cans of poly or topcoat it says to sand with 220 grit sandpaper in between coats and it’s just too rough of sandpaper. You will get those microscratches. I always use anywhere between 400-600 grit. Usually 400
I cringe at the 220 instructions because ultimately, it's not one size fits all. You need to know what you're after. For a stained piece like this, 400 to 600 grit is just perfect at the end. There's a lot of wood grain to pop out, and that sort of buries any scratches at that level, but if a person wants to get into a mirror finish (I build electric guitars and often seek a mirrored finish like what is seen on lacquered furniture), *then* you begin to realize just how aggressive 1000 grit sandpaper is at removing and scratching the finish even with wet-sanding. So it's really a bit of trial and error along with understanding how the finished look should appear. The key to remember is, you can always re-sand and apply more clear coat. Eventually it will look fantastic!
Some people use mineral spirits, paste wax, or some other lubricant when sanding between coats. Is there an advantage of one technique over the other? Also the dresser top looks lighter than the base. Is it? Thanks.
I personally don't wet sand in-between coats on wood. That's just me. I know some woodturners do it. I'm also not going for a glass like finish. Most people use a lubricant when sanding in-between coats because they are applying a heavier gloss topcoat. I was not. I'm applying your basic poly topcoat
Hi Madeline, Great video. I am in the process of painting a oil gloss base on a bathroom door & frame and yes there are lost of runs & sags due to that I am a inexperience painter. I just want to ask that 7 days after 1st coat, can I sand lightly and paint a 2nd or final coat?
Your tutorials are so informative ~ thank you so much!!! I actually feel confident trying Polycrylic thanks to all the great info you present / demonstrate so clearly!
If you had a piece of wood that you needed to stain the top and bottom of - would you stain them separately? Or together, then set it somewhere? What do you set it on to let it dry?
Yes I stain separately. I stain one side, let it dry. Flip and do the other side. I have a laundry drying rack that I use with projects like these. It works amazing! It can handle multiple pieces of wood at one time. Here's the link: amzn.to/3nwxLtj
Thank you and new to your channel, question, after you have sanded the table when you are picking up what is left, the dust left before you apply the final coat, your shop vac, is it to blow the dust away, as a blower or is it vacuuming?
I personally wait a full 24 hours. I would advise reading the back of the can of whatever poly you are applying. Make sure you pay special attention to the weather and specifically the humidity.
Maybe to add a little , I vacuum and then use a microfiber cloth. That works well for me. Thanks for your tips. Going to go buy a brush to use on my shop vac. Thanks again.
I am poly-ing a brand new wood exterior door. I think it will be tricky to get from the top of the door to the bottom in one nice swoop. Also the door is a 9 lite door-- and I can't really sand the beveled bits that go down to the windows. So for the 2nd coat, I will focus on all the flat surfaces.
After each coat you need to sand. Leave your final coat alone. Don’t sand your final coat. So if you put on three coats of topcoat….sand after the first coat, sand after the second coat, leave the third coat alone.
Great video! I already have a good system for refinishing down but still learned some things from your video and your answers in the comments section. Thanks!
Im a learning how to do this on my pellet gun wood stock. It has really nice wood but the old finish was almost non existant. Scraped it off then sanded it really smooth. Stained ebony miniwax. I just put my first layer of poly 5 minutes ago. Ill sand it lighty tomorrow after its nice and dry. I want to keep the coats even so sanding like you will be good. Its satin finish also from minwax. I like it.
That all depends on the topcoat you are using. I always advise reading the instructions on the can. Usually, most topcoats advise anywhere between 12-24 hours in between coats. I personally wait a full 24 hours.
Thanks, I'm using System Three varnish. It does say 22-24 hours between coats but doesn't say how soon after previous coat I can sand. I guess 24 hours will do. Thanks again, u seem like a nice lady.
Not necessarily. It all depends on how big the piece of furniture is. I can usually get away with using one 1/4 sheet of sand paper wrapped around a felt block. After each sanding I knock whatever dust off the sand paper.
I personally wait 24 hours in between coats the majority of the time. Sometimes I only have to wait 12. It depends on the product and the weather (temp/humidity).
Good work and it works for me as well. I have a question if you answer them. What to do when you are staining a maple table and you find that it has some old stains deep in the wood. Looks almost like mildew. I sanded to bear wood three times and the marks are still there. Thanks and HABD. HABD is a new word I created to say Have A Beautiful Day. Thanks.
I've bleached wood that I knew had mildew and that took care of it. If it's just old stain deep in the wood you might not be able to remove it. If that's the case I would just stain with a dark color. If you are staininig with a lighter color sometimes those imperfections add to the rustic look. I like your new acronym! HABD!!!!
I know you've already completed your project but I often soak in acetone or alcohol overnight to help pull old stain out, depending on what stains or dyes may have been used.
I'm working on a dining room table. I used Benjamin Moore Advance Akryd black paint (never again!). I'm trying to use a Polycrylic (Minwax) matte finish. I sanded that top coat of paint as you demonstrated (awesome video!), but I have terrible streaks now. Will the Polycrylic cover the streaks, or just enhance them? I don't know if I now need another coat of paint before the Polycrylic. I'd be ever so grateful for your response, after an afternoon of tears!
I have a few questions: did you sand your last coat of paint? You should NOT sand your last coat. Only in-between paint coats. Why don’t you like the Benjamin Moore Advance paint? I’m just curious. I’ve only painted with it one time.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 You are so sweet for responding! I now understand that I shouldn't have sanded the top coat! :( A couple of bloggers recommended it before the polycrilic. You have to be so careful about who you listen to! So now I will complete the sanding and put on one more top coat, wait another 30 days, and then use 3 coats of polycrylic. I'm just not happy with the paint. After it cured for over 30 days, I lightly dusted it with a clean white sock and accidently LIGHTLY ran my short fingernail across the table. It left a mark! Two coats of primer and three coats of Advance cured for 40+ days, and it was scratched! I just don't find it as durable as it claims. That's why I want to add the polycrylic. Hopefully it will be more durable, as it's a dining room table. Benjamin Moore told me I can't use polyurethane on it, so I'm going to try the Minwax Polycrylic.
Correct me if im wrong You mentionued 220,400,500 grit. When i used 220 after my first coat, lordy, lordy did i end up whith scratches..whei sand the clear top coat i end up with white dust that is still there after wiping 4,5 times. I have never , never like tax cloth I did a couple wipe down denatured alchole and distilled water , cause i didnt know if the white would effect my 2 coat. Finally why use 220 if it leaves all those scratches. Lik lot others has said, by far this is the best video i have ever watched. Thank , thank , thank you
Glad you found the video helpful. I’m not sure where you heard 220 grit, I NEVER use 220 grit. It’s too rough for sanding inbetween topcoats. I mention 400 or 500 grit. I know on the back of the cans of topcoats it mentions using 220 grit but I don’t advise that grit. Only 400 and up for me.
So I've definitely learned to try a less is more approach when sanding between coats. It usually winds up with me getting materials together and getting situated and thinking well I might as well put some elbow grease into if I want it to look good. But your advice has me thinking twice about that. Say have you ever used wet sanding when spray painting? Messy yes but it keeps the sandpaper moving and cutting if a paint surface isn't 100% cured.
Less is definitely more when it comes to sanding inbetween topcoats. I haven't personally tried the wet sanding. I know some people do that when they are applying a very heavy duty coat of poly and what it super shiny.
I know some people like to apply varnish and if it's too glossy looking they will apply wax over the top of it to dull the shine a bit. Yes I would leave the last coat of varnish untouched then apply the wax. Wax is always last.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 thanks for the reply. I asked you because sometimes when I pass the coats, dry drops of varnish appear. I think I need more practice with the brush.
I love your videos, there very helpful in my furniture restoration project. Question: I just stained my surface, once it dries do I sand prior to applying my 1st poly coat? Thanks!
Thanks for watching my videos Matt! After staining your last coat of stain you DO NOT sand. Wait until your stain is completely dry then just apply your first coat of topcoat.
I would be hesitant to advise using a t-shirt. It would probably leave little fibers behind. How about using a regular vacuum with the long attachment? Shop Vacs the smallest ones (3-5 gallon options) are super cheap. Worth the money to have one around. Less than $50.
This is great but I know how to sand. What I dont know after weeks and weeks of trial and errors is getting smooth poly coats. SO I add, sand Add sand. I just want the last one to be smooth ...and I have tried the mineral spirits , wipe on , brush on. It is frustrating because If I did a car, I can make it mirror smooth, body work, paint, clear coat. Poly hates me 😞Can you advise ? I especially want to get a mirror finish on a black case (want it to be piano black ) and cant get it 100% flat and gloss. Flat yes. Glossy yes. Just not both at the same time ...LOL
Hi! Will this techniques work with cabinets? I used the rustoleum cabinet transformations kit and the protective top coat leaves streaks and I hate it! Before I put it on the doors I wanted to know how to make those smooth and I came across your video.
Thank you for an excellent set of instructional videos. Wow! Question: It is difficult to find a felt block for sanding at a reasonable price. Amazon has a decent block from a 3rd party, but they charge an unreasonable shipping cost. Nothing at ACE hardware or Home Depot. Suggestions? RF from San Francisco Bay Area.
Thank you for watching! I did notice the price has gone up a bit on the felt block since I recorded this tutorial. I did a little researching and couldn't find any other places selling it. So weird! I even looked at Lowes/Harbor Freight. Sorry I couldn't be of help. I thought they would be easier to find.
I usually have to hand sand and get creative. I have a bunch of little attachments I’ll stick sandpaper to to try to get into tight spots. Sometimes it’s as easy as folding the sandpaper a bunch of times and getting in there.
Interesting.... the other day I used a tac cloth and my next laquer application had lots of small dry craters. Now wondering if it was wax residue blocking adhesion.
Hi Madeline, I am using India ink for guitar build project. I am grain filling the body, then coating the body in India ink. I am hoping to achieve a really nice satin finish. Any recommendations to achieve this? Great tutorial!
While I haven't ever refinished a guitar before I do love the line of General Finishes for topcoats. You should research them. I especially love their oil based poly Arm-R-Seal. They do carry a satin finish in it.
That's tricky. When I paint I lightly sand inbetween my painted coats to knock down any brush strokes. I do NOT sand my last painted coat. If you have brush strokes still and haven't applied a topcoat yet you can lightly hand sand. Then apply one final painted coat.
After a zillion videos that weren't super helpful I came across this. Very straightforward, simple, and to the point. Best video I've seen by far, not even close. Now to finish staining my stairs!
Glad it helped! Thank you for watching and leaving such a nice comment!
Great video, this part is always skipped in the tutorials I've read/watched online so it's nice to see someone finally demonstrate and explain, thank you!
Glad it was helpful! I love hearing feedback from people so thank you.
Exactly what i was looking for -- thanks for the brief yet real-time demo. Over-sanded my 1st coat of Poly and am receivong contradictory advice from expert friends 😉 So I am using your feather technique with 600 wrapped around a palm-sized block. I know how much work it is to clear the set for filiming, and to light, narrate, and edit these pieces -- so very many thanks from all os us 👍👍
Glad it was helpful! I get equally frusturated on most topcoat cans the instructions are to sand inbetween coats with 220 grit. It's still too rough. I recommend anywhere between 400-600 grit.
Just the video i needed! Thanks a bunch!
Glad it helped!
You really have a way of explaining that's detailed, focused and ,at least to me, exude as genuine. I feel you are a fantastic instructor. Thank you for the much needed tip!
So nice of you to say! Thank you so much!
I love your video your saving my current project very detailed!
Yeaaaaaa! I love hearing this!
Excellent tutorial. Thank you so much Bethany.
You are so welcome! Glad it was helpful!
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 Yes...I am at the moment varnishing the top of an ivory sideboard with *Black* (chalk based) paint. The first coat of (oil based) Polly went on just ok (quite a few blemishes) etc. So, I hope that tomorrow I can sand the top down with a fine grade sandpaper....and then 'roll' on another coat of polly. Here we go....fingers crossed!
Thanks, you addressed some of the little details I needed answers to
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you! This is the video I was looking for to show me the in between coats
Glad it was helpful!
Bethany-sister of wise whisper: thank you extremely much for this helpful video! 🙏🏽💛
You are so welcome!
Well explained Madeline. It was useful and simplified.
@@vimalneha So glad to hear this video was helpful to you!
Great video, but what I’m really impressed by is that you have responded to every comment! That’s amazing!
I try my best to respond to each and every comment. Thank you for noticing!
Your way is the best! It's funny for being a man, the woman explains it the way I can comprehend. Thank you Madeline
Glad you think so! Haha! Love the "a woman explains it the way I can comprehend" part.
Thank you for this video. Very well done.
Glad it was helpful!
This is a great video. The sanding technique between coats is what I was looking for.
I'm glad you found this video helpful! Thanks for watching!
Nice job Madelyn. TY
No problem. My name is Bethany.
Thanks!!! Getting ready to refinish a musical instrument and this will help tremendously!!
Rock on!
Thank you for this. I wish I'd seen this before taking my orbital sander to sand between topcoats. Now I'm going to apply two more coats following your method to restore some of the excess poly I took off. Thankfully I'm using water based, so it dries very quickly.
Glad it was helpful! Oh no you took an orbital sander between topcoats *gulp!
Thank you! This is so helpful. I was always afraid to sand between coats because I didn’t want to scratch my finish with sand paper, and steel wool seemed too aggressive. I’ll look for 400/500 grit and start expecting better results!
Wonderful! I'm glad you found this video helpful. I wouldn't use steel wool, it is to aggressive and it leaves those little fibers behind. Definitely go the 400/500 girt route. Best of luck!
People may do it differently but what you've explained makes perfect sense and will probably solve a lot of the issues I've been having. Thank you !
I hope you found success with using my method. Thanks for commenting!
I sooo needed this tutorial. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Thank you for a great explanation
Awesome
My pleasure!
Thank you for this tutorial, it is super helpful in smoothing out some layers of poly that dried uneven on a mirror frame I refurbed.
Fantastic! So glad it helped you.
Very good video, thank-you! 🌸
I’m glad you found it helpful! 😊
Very good info.. Back in the 1990s I was doing some wood working projects, and my sanding was back and forth.. I can see this is much better in keeping the surface all the same "as in flat". As soon as it warms up, I'll have to do a little wood working again, so I'll use this technique from now on..
Thank you for watching and commenting! Best of luck with your projects in the near future.
After the last coat, do you buff with extra fine grit like 1000? Great video, thanks
I personally do not.
Great vid!! I love your technique for guiding the foam pad/sand paper across the entire length. I have 3 shelves for a stereo rack to do tomorrow, so your video came in real handy👍👍 I too use General Finishes Top Coat Datin.
Thanks for checking my video out. I hope it helps with your stereo rack project.
Beautiful dresser what color is that stain?
That's Java by General Finishes. It's their gel stain.
Here's the link:
amzn.to/3E1xXwN
Bethany,
1rst rule - DONT let anyone tell you, you are doing anything wrong if you are getting the results you like.
You sand between top coats very different than me, but it surely doesn’t make you wrong.
If you worked for us, we would say, “Do what gives you, your best results”
We had 2 gentleman working for us, one used a Dremel to replicate applied carvings & one used his own very expensive Swiss made, carving knives.
You can imagine the conflict between those 2.
At the end of the day, you couldn’t tell a difference between their finished carvings & they took relatively the same time to make.
It’s the tools & techniques that work for you !
Absolutely agree with you on the tack cloth. We don’t use them at all & have very professional results & we do nothing more than blow the dust off & then wipe the piece with our bare hands.
3 coats is a relative target.
You are actually, visually gauging mil thickness of your finish.
On rare days, you can hit the sheen you like in 2 coats, but rarely in our case.
The older & more dry the piece or softer more absorbent grained wood, we have sprayed as many as 10 coats.
Most often 4 or 5 coats.
Our staunch rule is this -
If you step back after your last coat & ask yourself,
“Does it need another coat ??”
Give it another coat.
We spray everything.
Our 1rst coat is always light, 2nd coat is wet & heavy as it will have good cling to the 1rst light coat & 3 coat is just a good solid final wet coat.
Coats beyond 3rd will most often be lighter as we go.
& yep, we sand between each of the coats.
You do beautiful professional work. You stick with what gives you results you are happy with.
Don’t let any of the “arm chair warriors” or “seasoned professionals” tell you that you are doing anything wrong.
Pick & choose your techniques based on what makes sense to you !
Keep up the gorgeous work, your skills are worth every penny you charge & much more.
Hey Tommy, What an insightful comment! Thank you for the encouragement! This line of work is so hard and time consuming at times. I'm completely self taught and I'm no where near the level I want to be. I'm constantly learning (and making mistakes) but I do love this work.
I agree 100%! So many people come looking on TH-cam for the magic potion/method when it comes to restoration work and honestly it's all about find what works best for you. I may love a method and the next person may hate it and not have the best results. You really need to try some different methods, different products and find which ones you personally love.
I wish I had the ventilation system set up to spray topcoats but I work mainly in my basement and that's why I go the brush on route. Someday I'll have a better set up. For now I'm thankful I at least have a nice basement.
Good video. Have come back to it a few times for a bench top I'm making. Thanks!
Awesome! I hope your bench is coming along nicely.
When you go over the finish with your sandpaper, does it matter if you go with/against the grain of the wood? My piece has the wood going in four different directions and I don’t want to sand the wrong way
In that case you have two options...I've done both ways. Either pick a direction say left to right and sand that way down the entire piece OR sand carefully in each direction of the different grains.
Glad I watched really clarifies the between coats sanding high grit paper 1 swoop across with a block for even coverage got it 👍
Very nice video. Should I sand between staining?
Thank you for watching! I do not sand in-between stain coats.
I have a Waterstain on a piece of furniture (looks a little white!) The furniture is dark. I'm guessing I have to stain or paint it to repair this piece. Please give me your expert opinion! Thx
So what you are dealing with is moisture in the wood. Sometimes you can steam it out with heat. That's a 50/50 chance that will work. Place a towel over the water stain and use an iron to try to steam it out. Google Bob Villa and water stains on wood. He gives a step by step on this method. Others have used a hair dryer. It all depends how old the water ring is and the type of wood.
Very pretty!
Thank you! Cheers!
I'm new to furniture redo's, I did one bathroom cabinet with some transfers on it
but I think I used polyurethane instead of polychrelic.and now it turned yellow😢.plus, I never did 3 coats and never sanded in between coats.
I am so glad I watched your tutorial. I learned so much I may attempt to do a small table.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge 😊
You are so welcome! Bummer about the polyurethane. It will amber/yellow over time or almost immediately. Frustrating lesson to learn I'm sure.
Glad I’ve seen this, even if it’s too late for most of my current project. I’ve been getting so frustrated being able to see micro scratches between coats and my solution was to just sand more in the hope it would buff the scratches out. It mostly works, probably because I’m just removing more poly 🙈 turns out 220 grit between coats is really just too low.
Oh NOOOOOO! That really stinks! I hope you increased your sanding grit to at least 400. It won't create those mirco scratches that you have been experiencing.
I liked your vid. Keep up the good work 👍
Appreciate it! Thank you!
Thank you so much for this tutorial. As this is my very first staining/poly'ing so this was an awesome and informative video. You answered many of my burning questions like sandpaper grit between coats, drying time for oil-based poly and number of coats that should be applied to my trash picked dining room table. Great video.
You are so welcome! I love when viewers get a ton out of watching my video. Thanks for commenting and sharing what helped you.
Would a trimmed sponge work as well as felt blocks?
It could but only if it's a firm sponge.
Excellent video!!
Thank you very much!
Great video really helpful, thank you!!
Thanks for watching! Glad it was helpful.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 I watched this video only after I made a mistake. I used 220 grit after my first coat and now my second coat has dried and you can see the sanding marks 😅
Thanks for the detail on this video. I’m confident I’ll finish my table well now.
That's great! I'm glad the video helped. Thanks for commenting.
about to put poly on a dining set, thank you!!
Best of luck!
Thank you for a great video! I am painting my very first piece of furniture this weekend. Eeekkk! I’ve sanded, used the red bullseye primer, will now get the block and sand paper before I paint. I’m so nervous!
You got this! Question…the primer…does it have shellac in it? Also what color are you painting the piece of furniture? I ask these questions because the lighter color you use you want to make sure you use a primer with Shellac in it or you can just use Shellac alone. Shellac is used to block stains in the wood and to block wood tannins that may come to the surface.
Thanks, this is very helpful!
I’m so glad you found the video helpful 😊
Thank you. That is awesome 👌 😊big help.
You’re welcome 😊
Excellent tips!
Glad you think so!
This is the EXACT tutorial I was looking for. I was getting so frustrated after having to redo my whole bench again! This sanding technique leaves such a perfect finish. It really makes a difference. Thank you for saving my project!
You're very welcome! Glad I could help!
Very good. I wish I saw this video before I ruined my finish on my table top. I followed the instructions on the can and used a 220 grit sandpaper that took off some of my stain. Don’t know how to fix this without starting over. Can you help me⁉️❓
xrayme2x Oh nooooo! So sorry to hear about your table top. You most likely need to resand and restain. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 Hello. I also used 220 on my chair seats. I stopped on the second chair seat and came to youtube and found your video. I'll do as you suggest on the other two seats and table top. I think I'll now have to really sand down the first two seats and start over again on them.
I used a Polyurethane on a piece of furniture I painted black. I sanded with 220 very lightly and it turned extremely streaky. Do I need to start all over or do I try to add another coat of polyurethane?
That depends. Sorry to be vague. Topcoats over black paint can be tricky. Since the paint is probably water based/acrylic you are putting an oil based topcoat (poly) over it. The paint is usually porous and it sucks the poly in almost immediately creating streaks. I personally like to use black wax or hemp oil over black painted pieces. I did once have some luck with a water based poly spray in a can over black paint.
what type of brush do you use when Appling oil base poly
I personally use a 2 inch foam brush
How long do I have to wait after applying the first coat before I start sanding
Depends on the product you are using. Most poly's suggest at least 24 hours.
Great info, you rock !!!!
I appreciate that!
I applied 3 coats of General Finishes dead flat topcoat to an old painted pie safe. The topcoat significantly dulled the look of the paint. I’d like to remove the topcoat and start over with a different General Finishes topcoat. Is there a way to do this without removing the paint? Thanks.
You would have to remove the paint as well.
Wish I followed your instructions before tackling my project lol
Sanded, stained, first coat of poly, looked flawless.
Then I lightly sanded with 320 by hand and applied second coat of poly. I now have microscratches all of my live edge piece. Infuriating.
Good thing I started with the bottom. I will be doing YOUR METHOD to the top.
Oh nooooooo! Unfortunately I think a lot of us have had similar experiences. I know on most cans of poly or topcoat it says to sand with 220 grit sandpaper in between coats and it’s just too rough of sandpaper. You will get those microscratches. I always use anywhere between 400-600 grit. Usually 400
I cringe at the 220 instructions because ultimately, it's not one size fits all. You need to know what you're after.
For a stained piece like this, 400 to 600 grit is just perfect at the end. There's a lot of wood grain to pop out, and that sort of buries any scratches at that level, but if a person wants to get into a mirror finish (I build electric guitars and often seek a mirrored finish like what is seen on lacquered furniture), *then* you begin to realize just how aggressive 1000 grit sandpaper is at removing and scratching the finish even with wet-sanding. So it's really a bit of trial and error along with understanding how the finished look should appear.
The key to remember is, you can always re-sand and apply more clear coat. Eventually it will look fantastic!
Some people use mineral spirits, paste wax, or some other lubricant when sanding between coats. Is there an advantage of one technique over the other? Also the dresser top looks lighter than the base. Is it? Thanks.
I personally don't wet sand in-between coats on wood. That's just me. I know some woodturners do it. I'm also not going for a glass like finish. Most people use a lubricant when sanding in-between coats because they are applying a heavier gloss topcoat. I was not. I'm applying your basic poly topcoat
Hi Madeline,
Great video.
I am in the process of painting a oil gloss base on a bathroom door & frame and yes there are lost of runs & sags due to that I am a inexperience painter.
I just want to ask that 7 days after 1st coat, can I sand lightly and paint a 2nd or final coat?
Thanks for watching! Yes you can sand that first coat and knock down those drip marks.
Hi Madeline,
Thank you very much :)
@@airchanthaboury9005 you are welcome!
Your tutorials are so informative ~ thank you so much!!! I actually feel confident trying Polycrylic thanks to all the great info you present / demonstrate so clearly!
You are so welcome! Thank you for leaving such a nice comment!
If you had a piece of wood that you needed to stain the top and bottom of - would you stain them separately? Or together, then set it somewhere?
What do you set it on to let it dry?
Yes I stain separately. I stain one side, let it dry. Flip and do the other side. I have a laundry drying rack that I use with projects like these. It works amazing! It can handle multiple pieces of wood at one time.
Here's the link:
amzn.to/3nwxLtj
Thank you and new to your channel, question, after you have sanded the table when you are picking up what is left, the dust left before you apply the final coat, your shop vac, is it to blow the dust away, as a blower or is it vacuuming?
Welcome to my channel! You are sucking up the remaining dust with the Shop Vac.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074, thank you!!!!
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 and you do beautiful work!
Wondering how long I have to wait after a coat of polyurethane before I can sand?
I personally wait a full 24 hours. I would advise reading the back of the can of whatever poly you are applying. Make sure you pay special attention to the weather and specifically the humidity.
I just bough a island with a butcher block top how do you start .Do you sand first?
Yes I would first sand it.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 Then what To finish?
Maybe to add a little , I vacuum and then use a microfiber cloth. That works well for me. Thanks for your tips. Going to go buy a brush to use on my shop vac. Thanks again.
Great idea!! I appreciate you adding those tips.
I am poly-ing a brand new wood exterior door. I think it will be tricky to get from the top of the door to the bottom in one nice swoop. Also the door is a 9 lite door-- and I can't really sand the beveled bits that go down to the windows. So for the 2nd coat, I will focus on all the flat surfaces.
Great Tips but I have Question (?). What to do with wood that has cut designs in my wood (???). Thanks John in the Philippines Retired.
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I KNOW YOU HAVE TO SAND AFTER 1ST COAT BUT DO YOU HAVE TO SAND AFTER THE SECOND COAT?
After each coat you need to sand. Leave your final coat alone. Don’t sand your final coat. So if you put on three coats of topcoat….sand after the first coat, sand after the second coat, leave the third coat alone.
Does this work when a gel urethane was applied?
Thank You very much!!
You're welcome!
Great video! I already have a good system for refinishing down but still learned some things from your video and your answers in the comments section. Thanks!
Thank you! It’s nice to hear even an experienced refinisher like yourself got some good nuggets of info from the video. 😁
Do you prefer a felt block to a sanding sponge? I just wrap sand paper around sanding sponges - since I already have them.
I don't use sanding sponges. I prefer the block personally.
Im a learning how to do this on my pellet gun wood stock. It has really nice wood but the old finish was almost non existant. Scraped it off then sanded it really smooth. Stained ebony miniwax. I just put my first layer of poly 5 minutes ago. Ill sand it lighty tomorrow after its nice and dry. I want to keep the coats even so sanding like you will be good. Its satin finish also from minwax. I like it.
That sounds like quite the project! Patience is key with any topcoat and sanding lightly between coats. It's well worth the extra effort.
How soon can I sand between the coats of varnish.
That all depends on the topcoat you are using. I always advise reading the instructions on the can. Usually, most topcoats advise anywhere between 12-24 hours in between coats. I personally wait a full 24 hours.
Thanks, I'm using System Three varnish. It does say 22-24 hours between coats but doesn't say how soon after previous coat I can sand. I guess 24 hours will do. Thanks again, u seem like a nice lady.
Will be trying this method on a mahogany study desk I just built for my daughter, hoping to have the same great results you have had with it
You built a desk??? That's awesome! I hope this method works well for you too!
How do you sand the rest orf the chest? In the same manner?
So do you change the sandpaper for each coat or use the same one for the entire process ?
Not necessarily. It all depends on how big the piece of furniture is. I can usually get away with using one 1/4 sheet of sand paper wrapped around a felt block. After each sanding I knock whatever dust off the sand paper.
What do you do with sanding final coat?
I personally don't sand the final coat.
How long do I wait between topcoats?
I personally wait 24 hours in between coats the majority of the time. Sometimes I only have to wait 12. It depends on the product and the weather (temp/humidity).
I know this may sound silly, but why do you need to sand between coats?
To knock down dust nubs and to ensure a super smooth final coat.
Good work and it works for me as well. I have a question if you answer them. What to do when you are staining a maple table and you find that it has some old stains deep in the wood. Looks almost like mildew. I sanded to bear wood three times and the marks are still there. Thanks and HABD. HABD is a new word I created to say Have A Beautiful Day. Thanks.
I've bleached wood that I knew had mildew and that took care of it. If it's just old stain deep in the wood you might not be able to remove it. If that's the case I would just stain with a dark color. If you are staininig with a lighter color sometimes those imperfections add to the rustic look. I like your new acronym! HABD!!!!
I know you've already completed your project but I often soak in acetone or alcohol overnight to help pull old stain out, depending on what stains or dyes may have been used.
I can't find sanding blocks for $2 or $3. I found a Rockler felt block for about $14 + freight. Where did you get yours?
Oh boy! I uploaded this video 5+ years ago and my guess the price has signifigantly gone up since when I first bought mine. I found mine on Amazon.
I'm working on a dining room table. I used Benjamin Moore Advance Akryd black paint (never again!). I'm trying to use a Polycrylic (Minwax) matte finish. I sanded that top coat of paint as you demonstrated (awesome video!), but I have terrible streaks now. Will the Polycrylic cover the streaks, or just enhance them? I don't know if I now need another coat of paint before the Polycrylic. I'd be ever so grateful for your response, after an afternoon of tears!
I have a few questions: did you sand your last coat of paint? You should NOT sand your last coat. Only in-between paint coats. Why don’t you like the Benjamin Moore Advance paint? I’m just curious. I’ve only painted with it one time.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 You are so sweet for responding! I now understand that I shouldn't have sanded the top coat! :( A couple of bloggers recommended it before the polycrilic. You have to be so careful about who you listen to! So now I will complete the sanding and put on one more top coat, wait another 30 days, and then use 3 coats of polycrylic.
I'm just not happy with the paint. After it cured for over 30 days, I lightly dusted it with a clean white sock and accidently LIGHTLY ran my short fingernail across the table. It left a mark! Two coats of primer and three coats of Advance cured for 40+ days, and it was scratched! I just don't find it as durable as it claims. That's why I want to add the polycrylic. Hopefully it will be more durable, as it's a dining room table. Benjamin Moore told me I can't use polyurethane on it, so I'm going to try the Minwax Polycrylic.
Correct me if im wrong
You mentionued 220,400,500 grit.
When i used 220 after my first coat, lordy, lordy did i end up whith scratches..whei sand the clear top coat i end up with white dust that is still there after wiping 4,5 times. I have never , never like tax cloth
I did a couple wipe down denatured alchole and distilled water , cause i didnt know if the white would effect my 2 coat.
Finally why use 220 if it leaves all those scratches.
Lik lot others has said, by far this is the best video i have ever watched.
Thank , thank , thank you
And you mentioned 600 grit. Thanks
Glad you found the video helpful. I’m not sure where you heard 220 grit, I NEVER use 220 grit. It’s too rough for sanding inbetween topcoats. I mention 400 or 500 grit. I know on the back of the cans of topcoats it mentions using 220 grit but I don’t advise that grit. Only 400 and up for me.
I am refinishing a a entertainment center, I was told to use 220 it to much grit?
So I've definitely learned to try a less is more approach when sanding between coats. It usually winds up with me getting materials together and getting situated and thinking well I might as well put some elbow grease into if I want it to look good. But your advice has me thinking twice about that.
Say have you ever used wet sanding when spray painting? Messy yes but it keeps the sandpaper moving and cutting if a paint surface isn't 100% cured.
Less is definitely more when it comes to sanding inbetween topcoats. I haven't personally tried the wet sanding. I know some people do that when they are applying a very heavy duty coat of poly and what it super shiny.
Can I use this method on a car?
How long do you let it dry before sanding? I'm using polyuerthane oil based.
I usually use General Finishes oil based topcoats. I wait at the very minimum 24 hours between coats and sanding.
Hello, a question, if for example if I want to finish with varnish and then wax, I leave the last coat without sanding? Thanks for sharing!!
I know some people like to apply varnish and if it's too glossy looking they will apply wax over the top of it to dull the shine a bit. Yes I would leave the last coat of varnish untouched then apply the wax. Wax is always last.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 thanks for the reply. I asked you because sometimes when I pass the coats, dry drops of varnish appear. I think I need more practice with the brush.
I love your videos, there very helpful in my furniture restoration project. Question: I just stained my surface, once it dries do I sand prior to applying my 1st poly coat? Thanks!
Thanks for watching my videos Matt! After staining your last coat of stain you DO NOT sand. Wait until your stain is completely dry then just apply your first coat of topcoat.
Hi, I just found your channel today. Since I don’t have a shop vac, I was wondering if I could use an old cotton t-shirt to wipe in between?
I would be hesitant to advise using a t-shirt. It would probably leave little fibers behind. How about using a regular vacuum with the long attachment? Shop Vacs the smallest ones (3-5 gallon options) are super cheap. Worth the money to have one around. Less than $50.
This is great but I know how to sand. What I dont know after weeks and weeks of trial and errors is getting smooth poly coats. SO I add, sand Add sand. I just want the last one to be smooth ...and I have tried the mineral spirits , wipe on , brush on. It is frustrating because If I did a car, I can make it mirror smooth, body work, paint, clear coat. Poly hates me 😞Can you advise ? I especially want to get a mirror finish on a black case (want it to be piano black ) and cant get it 100% flat and gloss. Flat yes. Glossy yes. Just not both at the same time ...LOL
What poly product are you using? And when you say sand what grit are you using and how are you sanding?
Hi! Will this techniques work with cabinets? I used the rustoleum cabinet transformations kit and the protective top coat leaves streaks and I hate it! Before I put it on the doors I wanted to know how to make those smooth and I came across your video.
Thank you for an excellent set of instructional videos. Wow! Question: It is difficult to find a felt block for sanding at a reasonable price. Amazon has a decent block from a 3rd party, but they charge an unreasonable shipping cost. Nothing at ACE hardware or Home Depot. Suggestions? RF from San Francisco Bay Area.
Thank you for watching! I did notice the price has gone up a bit on the felt block since I recorded this tutorial. I did a little researching and couldn't find any other places selling it. So weird! I even looked at Lowes/Harbor Freight. Sorry I couldn't be of help. I thought they would be easier to find.
how do you sand evenly around the handles and in the crevices/ ridges?
I usually have to hand sand and get creative. I have a bunch of little attachments I’ll stick sandpaper to to try to get into tight spots. Sometimes it’s as easy as folding the sandpaper a bunch of times and getting in there.
Can I use 320 grit sandpaper? Or is that even too rough
That might be still too rough. I’ve only used 400-500 grit.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 okay sounds good thank you I'll buy some 400 after work and stick to what you know works!
Thanks for the tip. You thoroughly explained the steps and definitely answered a question I had. By the way my client dog is name Biscuit I love it.
Thanks for watching! Glad this video was helpful.
Interesting.... the other day I used a tac cloth and my next laquer application had lots of small dry craters. Now wondering if it was wax residue blocking adhesion.
Interesting! Very much could have. That's the reason why I don't use tack cloths.
Hi Madeline,
I am using India ink for guitar build project.
I am grain filling the body, then coating the body in India ink.
I am hoping to achieve a really nice satin finish.
Any recommendations to achieve this?
Great tutorial!
While I haven't ever refinished a guitar before I do love the line of General Finishes for topcoats. You should research them. I especially love their oil based poly Arm-R-Seal. They do carry a satin finish in it.
I only have 1500 grit. Can I use that?
I think that's too fine of sand paper. I would advise getting 400-500 grit.
Help please!!!!
I did my dinning table, but It shows the brush strokes, how can I get rid of them!
That's tricky. When I paint I lightly sand inbetween my painted coats to knock down any brush strokes. I do NOT sand my last painted coat. If you have brush strokes still and haven't applied a topcoat yet you can lightly hand sand. Then apply one final painted coat.