I am doing my own version of the workbench in pine as I'm new to this and I will deffo ruin any decent timber. After watching this video I know I am no where near as accurate. I am planning on doing wedged tenons but I have a very strong feeling I'll balls it up :D haha ty for your vids I've learned a lot. Mostly that I cant afford Veritas tools xD
I'm in awe. There are very few LONG tutorial videos on youtube that hold me absolutely transfixed for their entirety. Packed with useful tips. Fantastic, up-close filmography. Clean editing. And lastly.. the vids are on subject. (no rambling about family/politics/etc) Thank you. You are a teacher.
As someone studying for his Diploma in Engineering and an hobbyist metal worker, I'm spotting a lot of skills and techniques in marking out that show a lot of potential use for marking out in metal working. I'm probably going to go ahead and start making metal working equivalents of these tools, and maybe buy a few lengths of pine from the local Bunnings.
A lot of woodworkers use machinist squares and 1, 2, 3 blocks for set up and measuring. While wood can be a little more forgiving a lot can be learned from machinists regarding precision and accuracy.
Nice video! Personally I would have chopped out that mortise with a bevel edge chisel. Slower progress, and much more subtle and precise work, but also requiring a lot less adjusting of the tenon to make a tidy fit afterwards. The mortise chisel is great for tearing out chunks of wood, which is fine for bigger and less delicate joints, but is does leave a lot of scars on a little and delicate joints as in this video. That said, thumbs up for anyone who can still be bothered to carry forward the magic of the good old hand tools, and you have made a very good and instructional video here.
Not according to Wikipedia: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mortise_and_tenon#Etymology "comes from c. 1400 from Old French mortaise (13th c.), possibly from Arabic murtazz, "fastened," past participle of razza, "cut a mortise in.""
Wow, why would your mind go there? Not exactly lefty loosey righty tighty is it? Every time I cut a mortice from now on I'm going to be imagining my own grave, and 'Mortality'. Thanks!
La mort is just 'death' not 'to death' and the word for grave in French is actually Une tombe. :) Although your explanation is good if you want to use it to remember which is which.
@@youtuberkhan9532if you look around there's so many different origins and meanings for most words, one website says; "Late 14c., morteise, "hole in which something is fitted" (originally of the hole in which Christ's cross was inserted)" Dan Brown would have all kinds of conspiracy theories on this, A mortise is generally seen as the 'Female', a female housing for the cross that symbolises Christ, the upright of a cross is the 'shaft' A hole for the saviour's shaft. Possibly the church wouldn't allow half lap joints as they mean male and female are equal and interchangeable.....can Indiana Jon..........sorry, Robert Langdon (two entirely different characters, one has a whip, the other doesn't.) decipher the the messages of the joints used to make the Pope's foot stool? Is the dowel joint making Ikea more powerful than the church? It writes itself, hahaha. (Sorry, got a little carried away there, But I'll be watching you Dan Brown!) To me the most confusing thing about which is the mortise and which is the tenon is ironmongary, Mortise locks are wrongly named, The hole is the mortise, the bit you put in is the tenon, so they surely should be called 'tenon locks'?
Like your work mate. Great to see the younger generation carrying on this fine tradition. I also like to use traditional tools rather than routers etc, but I tend to drill out the mortices first. My Dad was a joiner and he said it was a waste of energy to chisel out all that wood. He was right. When I used to demonstrate traditional woodworking techniques I would use a brace and bit. Very satisfying. But in the workshop I use a morticer or the pillar drill and a point and spur drill bit. If I can't find one in the right size, I grind one. Also, I've found Japanese saws to be superior to even the very best old tenon saws, and all my good saws are beautiful 100 year old Distons! The advantages are many. Firstly you're pulling towards you, not pushing away. That leads to greater control and therefore higher accuracy. Japanese saws have very aggressive sharp teeth which cut much faster with far less effort. You're also cutting a finer kerf because the teeth are set much closer than European saws, so both sides of the cut are subject to less scoring as a result of variations in accuracy of saw stroke. All this means you can cut a lot closer to the line. Japanese woodworkers cut TO the line! They are amazing. Finally, when cleaning out the long sides of the mortice, I like to offer the 1" chisel at an angle, cutting with the corner first, sliding it in like a guillotine. This method works best on hard timbers.
Went on my very first Carpenters taster course today and learned how to make a mortise and tenon joint ... not as wonderful as yours, but first try, now I want more. Keep the guidance tutorials coming; they are great for a beginner like me.
Great video as usual. Glad to hear that its a tough joint to make. When I was in woodwork class at school in the sixties, we would not pass if we couldn't make the tenon fit the mortice straight of the saw, no chiseling back to the line. Not many people passed!
Oh lord! 20:23, took a half second to realize you clipped out the part where you flipped the piece over so I thought you were cutting off the tenon, nearly gave me a heckin'!
It’s probably considered a ‘cheat’ because I’m not allowed to do it that way for my exam a college, but if you can make a nice mortice that way why not.
Rex Krueger's answer to this question is to use whatever works for you, but that drilling holes takes longer than cutting it if you practice enough. Personally, I tried pre-drilling and ended up absolutely wrecking it somehow lol. Chisel refused to go straight
Superb video with a wealth of helpful information. Everything is explained very clearly and concisely in a comprehensive and entertaining fashion. Thank you!
Love your videos - I’m binging on them atm. I’m sure this question has already been asked, but if the finished size of mortise dictates how you cut the tenon, why mark up the tenon before the mortise is cut? Why not just mark it off the finished mortise? Sorry if this is dumb
Great video. Good balance, concise but lots of detail. You kind of remind me of Marc Spagnuolo, you explain things very well. I've been training people for two decades and the key is that you don't just tell what your doing, you include the why.
From a very jealous middle aged carpenter to a young guy setting himself up on a great path to a successful career I applaud your skill and knowledge. I taught carpentry and I really wasn't interested in perfect practise pieces I was interested in people getting the experience over and over, I see a lot of tutorials about how to do things and it's filmed well and all very valid but the real reason to do joints is to make things, so that said my thoughts are this.... Use that lovely accurate saw and cut so close to your gauge lines that you are left with a slither of wood left to chisel. If you don't trust you can hit that mark, don't worry it's all practise because if you have to chisel with a mallet your tenons there's too much stock left on, which for a demo is fine but it then adds an extra process and time to making even the most basic of frames in for example if you take 1 minute longer chiselling this way on each side that's both sides x4 joints in a basic frame that's 8 minutes longer, if your making a dovetail box and chiselling each face of the dovetails and pins it gets to hours spent chiselling what the saw does very well at. Good luck and keep sharing great content
I think he’s a lot better and faster than he lets on. He does it like this to help beginners. Otherwise they’d think they could never do it how well and quickly he does it. Look at rob cosman. He looks like he uses a lot of aids and crutches but it’s all for the audience. He has a video of doing dovetails in 3 and half minutes and they are tighter than anything I’ve ever achieved in an hour!
Hello Matt, question for you from a novice; to fine tuning the tenon could be a rasp first and a file after a good alternative while mastering the chiselling? What could be the disadvantages compare to the chisel? One more good lesson thank you! Paolo
TIP: If you cut the tenon first, you can cut the mortise a little narrow, then clamp your tenon next to the mortise board. Then use the edge of the tenon board to register your mortise chisel. Then pair the mortise sides using the side of the tenon board. No damage. No bruising. Perfect fit.
Does anything change if you are putting the mortise through the side instead of the edge? I’m looking to make a box with a shelf utilizing through tenons.
Hi matt , any instructions on how to mark a mortise and tenon if your 2 call components are different thicknesses , example running an apron into a table leg .. here you cant use the marking gauge to mark both the mortise and the tenon at the same time , i guess you have to mark them out separately
Hey Matt, great videos! I have been attempting to cut mortise and tenons for a while now. I’ve never cut these joints and your videos are very helpful. But every time I cut them the tenon is angled (not square) when assembled. Is there a way to remedy this? Or is the only solution re cutting the joint? I am trying to find a “troubleshooting mortise and tenon joint” video to go into more detail on fine tuning a tight fitting mortise and tenon joint. Also I would love to see your take on doing a mortise and tenon video for 45 degree angled braces, maybe a video on how you fine tune your mortise and tenon joints and how to make them square.
Excellent video. Question - we were always taught to do the mortice first so that if it was off a bit you could factor that into the tenon. Perhaps that is something a very precise carpenter doesn't do because he trusts his measurements?
Huge amount of work for one joint! To make a box window frame would need 4 of these and it’s unlikely they’d all line up. What’s the nest way to make a frame? A simpler reliable right angle joint. Please help 👍
Hey Matt... quick question... I was thinking about making a couple mallets as a beginner project with hand tools only. Would that be the joint I'm looking for? I feel like it's more of a tapered tenon. Do you have any tips on weight of mallet head and length of handle?
Don't cut a mortise in the plywood, instead 'build' the mortise, as if the plywood were Lego blocks. One long block, two short blocks with the gap between set with the thickness of the material for the tenon, and another long block on the other side to complete the sandwich
what kind of wood are these guys getting with such dense grain?? And is that even able to be found at a regular blue or orange store? How much more expensive is it? Should I even be practicing with wood that nice or use crap stuff until I am a better woodworker?
Matt, thanks for the great video! I noticed you are only trimming one side of the tenon versus equal amounts on both sides. Are you not concerned about offset because the show face of the tenon is a tight fit?
Rails Life - That is how I learned. It’s a tight fit without the need do all the trimming on the tenon. Just use the tenon to guide the chisel and then pair off it.
It appears that the obvious solution would be to just mark the tenon slightly oversize and pare down the sides of the mortise to fit. I can't help but think that it would give you smoother sidewalls that make it easier to get a tighter fit joint to slide home. I've not actually tried it, though, and it's well after midnight here so I could be missing the obvious problem with that idea.
Why not pre-drill the bulk of the space for the Mortice and then clean it up. It would leave a lot less bruising in the walls for both sides and a much better overall fit.
This is strange, you put the bevel of your chisel on the wrong side when you chop. Try the other way, you will be much more efficient. The thing is that when the chisel plunges, it follows the bevel. look at the good old Paul Sellers, he explains it very good (as ever). By the way you don't need a mortice chisel to do a mortice. Great videos, keep going !
I don’t understand how the shoulder plane doesn’t make the wood spell out whenever I try it always ends up splitting the ends and giving me a very bad finish
You listened and remembered - nice :-) Regarding the mortice cutting, have a look at Paul Seller's method: th-cam.com/video/r-08PY3stgo/w-d-xo.html He cuts the tenon first (I don't particularly care using his or your method of cutting it), but then he cuts the mortice WITHOUT a mortice chisel ever - by using bevel chisels only. Plus, by making the mortice a few mm bigger than the chisel, he doesn't have the problem of the mortice getting bigger than anticipated. What do you think about that? I've never put either method into practice, so I'd like your opinion - and perhaps a "cutting method duel" video perhaps? :-)
All for you my friend! Haven't seen that video of Pauls before but I remember seeing his original M&T a few years ago. Over the years my method obviously mixed with different techniques I've been taught. As for the bevel edged chisel vs mortice chisel debate. I can only assume he's demonstrating how to cut the joint with the bare minimum tools as that is the premise of a lot of his videos. Bevel edged chisels are undoubtedly more versatile than a mortice chisel. But are they better at whacking out waste than a mortice chisel? Probably not.
Awesome, can you do a video on how to cut by hand a tapered end, say on a piece of wood that would be be the base of a frame/leg. I tried to do one on this trouser stand but ended up at a weird angles on my cuts and had to correct by clamping them together and sanding them back. Pic of trouser stand: drive.google.com/file/d/1PCb9fAiLGi49qnFfEKHlI4nFVXGYfhsR/view?usp=drivesdk
Don't want to damage your WORKbench? Don't make it fancy looking with inlays. Just like a pushstick for a tablesaw is there to be used and cut into, so you don't cut into your fingers,the workbench is there to hold your work, so you don't ram the chisel into your leg when going through a workpiece. Most people who make fancy pushsticks, and paint them, don't want to use them for tricky cuts, so they are worthless. People who treat their workbench like furniture, waste so much time trying to figure out alterative approaches to a straight forward idea. This channel might be very popular, but I just lost a lot of respect for this guy worrying about not damaging his pretty workbench with a chisel.
![ปฏิเสธไม่ไหว (Crush on you) - LIPTA feat. No One Else [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NBw1jF342vw/mqdefault.jpg)
Like the workbench? You can watch me make it here: th-cam.com/video/FXKYwM0f5WU/w-d-xo.html&t
I am doing my own version of the workbench in pine as I'm new to this and I will deffo ruin any decent timber. After watching this video I know I am no where near as accurate. I am planning on doing wedged tenons but I have a very strong feeling I'll balls it up :D haha ty for your vids I've learned a lot. Mostly that I cant afford Veritas tools xD
I'm in awe. There are very few LONG tutorial videos on youtube that hold me absolutely transfixed for their entirety. Packed with useful tips. Fantastic, up-close filmography. Clean editing. And lastly.. the vids are on subject. (no rambling about family/politics/etc) Thank you. You are a teacher.
Thank you 👍
I really appreciate you going through this in detail - not breezing over any part of the process. I understand what I need to do.
So great to see a left handed wood worker! I’m early days hobbyist trying to learn from my 95 year old woodworker grandad
By far the best tutorials on TH-cam! Thank you!
As someone studying for his Diploma in Engineering and an hobbyist metal worker, I'm spotting a lot of skills and techniques in marking out that show a lot of potential use for marking out in metal working. I'm probably going to go ahead and start making metal working equivalents of these tools, and maybe buy a few lengths of pine from the local Bunnings.
A lot of woodworkers use machinist squares and 1, 2, 3 blocks for set up and measuring. While wood can be a little more forgiving a lot can be learned from machinists regarding precision and accuracy.
Sorry please ignore my other question. It was answered in the video. I jumped the gun! Great demonstration with such attention to the very detail.
Nice video! Personally I would have chopped out that mortise with a bevel edge chisel. Slower progress, and much more subtle and precise work, but also requiring a lot less adjusting of the tenon to make a tidy fit afterwards. The mortise chisel is great for tearing out chunks of wood, which is fine for bigger and less delicate joints, but is does leave a lot of scars on a little and delicate joints as in this video. That said, thumbs up for anyone who can still be bothered to carry forward the magic of the good old hand tools, and you have made a very good and instructional video here.
Paul Sellers Style ;)
Mortis is from 'mort' meaning to death, meaning grave, meaning a hole in the ground. So a mortise is a square hole that looks like a grave. :-)
Not according to Wikipedia: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mortise_and_tenon#Etymology
"comes from c. 1400 from Old French mortaise (13th c.), possibly from Arabic murtazz, "fastened," past participle of razza, "cut a mortise in.""
@@youtuberkhan9532 Boom. Roasted.
Wow, why would your mind go there? Not exactly lefty loosey righty tighty is it?
Every time I cut a mortice from now on I'm going to be imagining my own grave, and 'Mortality'. Thanks!
La mort is just 'death' not 'to death' and the word for grave in French is actually Une tombe. :)
Although your explanation is good if you want to use it to remember which is which.
@@youtuberkhan9532if you look around there's so many different origins and meanings for most words,
one website says;
"Late 14c., morteise, "hole in which something is fitted" (originally of the hole in which Christ's cross was inserted)"
Dan Brown would have all kinds of conspiracy theories on this,
A mortise is generally seen as the 'Female', a female housing for the cross that symbolises Christ, the upright of a cross is the 'shaft'
A hole for the saviour's shaft. Possibly the church wouldn't allow half lap joints as they mean male and female are equal and interchangeable.....can Indiana Jon..........sorry, Robert Langdon (two entirely different characters, one has a whip, the other doesn't.) decipher the the messages of the joints used to make the Pope's foot stool? Is the dowel joint making Ikea more powerful than the church?
It writes itself, hahaha.
(Sorry, got a little carried away there,
But I'll be watching you Dan Brown!)
To me the most confusing thing about which is the mortise and which is the tenon is ironmongary,
Mortise locks are wrongly named,
The hole is the mortise, the bit you put in is the tenon, so they surely should be called 'tenon locks'?
Like your work mate. Great to see the younger generation carrying on this fine tradition.
I also like to use traditional tools rather than routers etc, but I tend to drill out the mortices first. My Dad was a joiner and he said it was a waste of energy to chisel out all that wood. He was right.
When I used to demonstrate traditional woodworking techniques I would use a brace and bit. Very satisfying. But in the workshop I use a morticer or the pillar drill and a point and spur drill bit. If I can't find one in the right size, I grind one.
Also, I've found Japanese saws to be superior to even the very best old tenon saws, and all my good saws are beautiful 100 year old Distons!
The advantages are many. Firstly you're pulling towards you, not pushing away. That leads to greater control and therefore higher accuracy.
Japanese saws have very aggressive sharp teeth which cut much faster with far less effort.
You're also cutting a finer kerf because the teeth are set much closer than European saws, so both sides of the cut are subject to less scoring as a result of variations in accuracy of saw stroke.
All this means you can cut a lot closer to the line. Japanese woodworkers cut TO the line! They are amazing.
Finally, when cleaning out the long sides of the mortice, I like to offer the 1" chisel at an angle, cutting with the corner first, sliding it in like a guillotine. This method works best on hard timbers.
Went on my very first Carpenters taster course today and learned how to make a mortise and tenon joint ... not as wonderful as yours, but first try, now I want more.
Keep the guidance tutorials coming; they are great for a beginner like me.
I’m extremely impressed-especially for such a young man. You are an artist!
Great video as usual. Glad to hear that its a tough joint to make. When I was in woodwork class at school in the sixties, we would not pass if we couldn't make the tenon fit the mortice straight of the saw, no chiseling back to the line. Not many people passed!
It’s the way it should be. Whose got 6 weeks to make 1 chair 😂 I aim the same for dovetails, they should fit straight from the saw.
Oh lord! 20:23, took a half second to realize you clipped out the part where you flipped the piece over so I thought you were cutting off the tenon, nearly gave me a heckin'!
What's your position on using a drill to remove most of the material in the mortise and then squaring up the hole with a chisel?
It’s probably considered a ‘cheat’ because I’m not allowed to do it that way for my exam a college, but if you can make a nice mortice that way why not.
Rex Krueger's answer to this question is to use whatever works for you, but that drilling holes takes longer than cutting it if you practice enough.
Personally, I tried pre-drilling and ended up absolutely wrecking it somehow lol. Chisel refused to go straight
@@SorenX2008same.
your chisel is going to wander a bunch. It won't have any reference point to guide itself.
Superb video with a wealth of helpful information. Everything is explained very clearly and concisely in a comprehensive and entertaining fashion. Thank you!
Love your videos - I’m binging on them atm. I’m sure this question has already been asked, but if the finished size of mortise dictates how you cut the tenon, why mark up the tenon before the mortise is cut? Why not just mark it off the finished mortise? Sorry if this is dumb
I cant stop looking at that ding in your bench :( cool video as always man.
I came here to see a mortice chisel in action. I would need to rout a 6mm groove about 6mm deep. Got my answers here. Thanks for the upload!
Nice work!
Great video. Good balance, concise but lots of detail. You kind of remind me of Marc Spagnuolo, you explain things very well. I've been training people for two decades and the key is that you don't just tell what your doing, you include the why.
From a very jealous middle aged carpenter to a young guy setting himself up on a great path to a successful career I applaud your skill and knowledge. I taught carpentry and I really wasn't interested in perfect practise pieces I was interested in people getting the experience over and over, I see a lot of tutorials about how to do things and it's filmed well and all very valid but the real reason to do joints is to make things, so that said my thoughts are this.... Use that lovely accurate saw and cut so close to your gauge lines that you are left with a slither of wood left to chisel. If you don't trust you can hit that mark, don't worry it's all practise because if you have to chisel with a mallet your tenons there's too much stock left on, which for a demo is fine but it then adds an extra process and time to making even the most basic of frames in for example if you take 1 minute longer chiselling this way on each side that's both sides x4 joints in a basic frame that's 8 minutes longer, if your making a dovetail box and chiselling each face of the dovetails and pins it gets to hours spent chiselling what the saw does very well at. Good luck and keep sharing great content
I think he’s a lot better and faster than he lets on. He does it like this to help beginners. Otherwise they’d think they could never do it how well and quickly he does it.
Look at rob cosman. He looks like he uses a lot of aids and crutches but it’s all for the audience. He has a video of doing dovetails in 3 and half minutes and they are tighter than anything I’ve ever achieved in an hour!
As I've said before, those close-up shots are really helpful. Great vid. Thanks.
Very nice work mate!!
I was taught to use a wet toothbrush to get off excess glue. Works better than just a paper towel
Very good explanation...best i have seen
Hello Matt, question for you from a novice; to fine tuning the tenon could be a rasp first and a file after a good alternative while mastering the chiselling? What could be the disadvantages compare to the chisel?
One more good lesson thank you!
Paolo
TIP: If you cut the tenon first, you can cut the mortise a little narrow, then clamp your tenon next to the mortise board. Then use the edge of the tenon board to register your mortise chisel. Then pair the mortise sides using the side of the tenon board. No damage. No bruising. Perfect fit.
Any visual examples??
@@CabinetFramingUK Paul Sellers on youtube does exactly that if it helps.
Great tutorials and videos, been following your channel for a while now, big fan of your work. Keep it up! Cheers from Argentina.
Cheers Matias!
Does anything change if you are putting the mortise through the side instead of the edge? I’m looking to make a box with a shelf utilizing through tenons.
this guy is a legend!!!! but does anyone know where I can get one of those marking knifes?
woof.. that was good!
Thanks for doing that man! Really appreciate it
Nice one Matt!
So much actions and words and such ordinary result.
Love your video's!!! Keep it Up
Cheers Gary!
Great video.👍
Nice video.
Spellbound, I was. What a fantastic how-to. Needs re-watching several times, though. ;-)
You make we want to buy more tools I don’t need.
Hi matt , any instructions on how to mark a mortise and tenon if your 2 call components are different thicknesses , example running an apron into a table leg .. here you cant use the marking gauge to mark both the mortise and the tenon at the same time , i guess you have to mark them out separately
Surely it's easier to remember:
Mortice chisel. Cut morticr.
Tenon saw. Cut tenon.
mortice saw and tenon chisel
Were you shoulder planing on each side of the tenon or only one side?
How mad were you when you dented your workbench ? So sorry. It was such a beautiful demonstration.
Hey Matt, great videos! I have been attempting to cut mortise and tenons for a while now. I’ve never cut these joints and your videos are very helpful. But every time I cut them the tenon is angled (not square) when assembled. Is there a way to remedy this? Or is the only solution re cutting the joint? I am trying to find a “troubleshooting mortise and tenon joint” video to go into more detail on fine tuning a tight fitting mortise and tenon joint.
Also I would love to see your take on doing a mortise and tenon video for 45 degree angled braces, maybe a video on how you fine tune your mortise and tenon joints and how to make them square.
Excellent video. Question - we were always taught to do the mortice first so that if it was off a bit you could factor that into the tenon. Perhaps that is something a very precise carpenter doesn't do because he trusts his measurements?
Matt: I like to much you video`s Super cool. tnx.
I will probably never use this in this lifetime yet I've still sat here for 30 minutes watching
To use Electrical/Computer vernacular. Tenon is Male pin connector, and Mortise is a female connector. Also Tenon and Male are shorter spelling
How do you check for squareness?
Huge amount of work for one joint! To make a box window frame would need 4 of these and it’s unlikely they’d all line up. What’s the nest way to make a frame? A simpler reliable right angle joint. Please help 👍
Hey Matt... quick question... I was thinking about making a couple mallets as a beginner project with hand tools only. Would that be the joint I'm looking for? I feel like it's more of a tapered tenon. Do you have any tips on weight of mallet head and length of handle?
does this sort of joint work ok for ply wood ?
im trying to make a set of shelves for my work shop and thinking this would be a strong joint
Don't cut a mortise in the plywood, instead 'build' the mortise, as if the plywood were Lego blocks. One long block, two short blocks with the gap between set with the thickness of the material for the tenon, and another long block on the other side to complete the sandwich
In the netherlands its realy easy to rememver what the tenon is and mortise because its called pen en gat.Because Gat means hole.
question: if you bought one shoulder plane from Veritas what size would you get?
what kind of wood are these guys getting with such dense grain?? And is that even able to be found at a regular blue or orange store? How much more expensive is it? Should I even be practicing with wood that nice or use crap stuff until I am a better woodworker?
Anyone know what knife he’s using?
Hi Matt, would you teach us how to build a proper mallet?
This is great Did you sharpen your chisels just before you started working on it?
Matt, thanks for the great video! I noticed you are only trimming one side of the tenon versus equal amounts on both sides. Are you not concerned about offset because the show face of the tenon is a tight fit?
If you didn't go so deep each time into the mortice hole, you don't put so much lever force to remove the waste, so looking after the edges.
nice vid as always Matt, did you mark your bench top during final glue up?
Hehehe, yea I gave it a rather firm whack! Going to try and steam it out at some point...
Well, mortice sounds like "rigor mortis". That's what you get right before you go into a grave. Or, a gaping hole in the ground. There.
"it's going to be wobbly in there".
I remember it by thinking of "mortise = mouth = hole". great video as usual!
I remember mortice is the hole because there is no such thing as a "tenon chisel" 😆
Aide Memoire: Tennon-Tounge (sticks out)/Mortice-Mouth (hole)
I am somewhat surprised that you are not using a TED Talk (on the head & face) sound system. Money?
I just remember it by thinking of the tenon as a tenant, one that lives in something.
Cut the tenon first then measure out the mortise off of it? Might make for a tighter fit.
The mortise walls are bruised by the chisel when cutting it out, making it larger than expected. I explained it at some point in the video...
Rails Life - That is how I learned. It’s a tight fit without the need do all the trimming on the tenon. Just use the tenon to guide the chisel and then pair off it.
It appears that the obvious solution would be to just mark the tenon slightly oversize and pare down the sides of the mortise to fit. I can't help but think that it would give you smoother sidewalls that make it easier to get a tighter fit joint to slide home. I've not actually tried it, though, and it's well after midnight here so I could be missing the obvious problem with that idea.
And you are starting with nice square stock...
Try by remembering Mortise MOUTH - Tenon TONGUE. You’re welcome!
Mortise Cave… Isn’t that the 7th Pirates of the Caribbean installment?
Isn't it easier to cut a through mortise-and-tenon than a blind one?
Ya know? Maybe I was a little ambitious... Sometimes the value of educational programming is finding where your limits are.
Excellent as usual Matt, quick question, are you ambidextrous?
Yep! Primarily a leftie but occasionally switch it up a bit.
Living on the edge there, keep up the great work
Just ordered some Cascamite. $0.97 shipping cost from Britain. I hope you're not leading me astray.
Mortice+Tenon = M+T = Mouth+Tongue
Why not pre-drill the bulk of the space for the Mortice and then clean it up. It would leave a lot less bruising in the walls for both sides and a much better overall fit.
This is strange, you put the bevel of your chisel on the wrong side when you chop.
Try the other way, you will be much more efficient.
The thing is that when the chisel plunges, it follows the bevel.
look at the good old Paul Sellers, he explains it very good (as ever).
By the way you don't need a mortice chisel to do a mortice.
Great videos, keep going !
video idea: how you keep your chisels sharp enough to do that.
I don’t understand how the shoulder plane doesn’t make the wood spell out whenever I try it always ends up splitting the ends and giving me a very bad finish
As you've ruined your bench, I better come and take it away so you don't get too upset. I won't charge you!
Simple way of remembering is that you use your tennon saw on the tennon but you don't use it on the mortise.
Mortise sounds like a word with a latin root maybe meaning death. When you're dead you go in a hole...like a mortise.
28:18 aaaargh the mark on your workbench :(
Hahaha I was wondering if anyone would spot that! I pretended I didn't care, secretly I was crying inside
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yep, the whole bench is ruined now... gotta make a new one lol j/k
Will you possibly introduce some way of sacrifial Material? Or do you stand by "each chop is calculated" is it worth changing any Setup?
Very honest video. Very reliable for those who really want to learn. Nice end result! Thanks
Tenon sounds like tenant, so it is the one that goes inside
How to cut open mortice and tenon mortice
You listened and remembered - nice :-)
Regarding the mortice cutting, have a look at Paul Seller's method: th-cam.com/video/r-08PY3stgo/w-d-xo.html
He cuts the tenon first (I don't particularly care using his or your method of cutting it), but then he cuts the mortice WITHOUT a mortice chisel ever - by using bevel chisels only. Plus, by making the mortice a few mm bigger than the chisel, he doesn't have the problem of the mortice getting bigger than anticipated.
What do you think about that? I've never put either method into practice, so I'd like your opinion - and perhaps a "cutting method duel" video perhaps? :-)
All for you my friend! Haven't seen that video of Pauls before but I remember seeing his original M&T a few years ago. Over the years my method obviously mixed with different techniques I've been taught. As for the bevel edged chisel vs mortice chisel debate. I can only assume he's demonstrating how to cut the joint with the bare minimum tools as that is the premise of a lot of his videos. Bevel edged chisels are undoubtedly more versatile than a mortice chisel. But are they better at whacking out waste than a mortice chisel? Probably not.
You probably mean this one? th-cam.com/video/q_NXq7_TILA/w-d-xo.html
Awesome, can you do a video on how to cut by hand a tapered end, say on a piece of wood that would be be the base of a frame/leg. I tried to do one on this trouser stand but ended up at a weird angles on my cuts and had to correct by clamping them together and sanding them back. Pic of trouser stand: drive.google.com/file/d/1PCb9fAiLGi49qnFfEKHlI4nFVXGYfhsR/view?usp=drivesdk
Nobody want to hear loud whacking noises, reduce those and video will be more watchable 👍🏻
!;-)
This is much easier with a router table or drill press to cut the mortise and a table saw for the tenon
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Not very precise nor accurate. Need some improvement ! Keep on practising, it’s more useful than doing approximate videos ! Best
Don't want to damage your WORKbench? Don't make it fancy looking with inlays.
Just like a pushstick for a tablesaw is there to be used and cut into, so you don't cut into your fingers,the workbench is there to hold your work, so you don't ram the chisel into your leg when going through a workpiece.
Most people who make fancy pushsticks, and paint them, don't want to use them for tricky cuts, so they are worthless.
People who treat their workbench like furniture, waste so much time trying to figure out alterative approaches to a straight forward idea.
This channel might be very popular, but I just lost a lot of respect for this guy worrying about not damaging his pretty workbench with a chisel.