I dig it. If I may, I have a suggestion. Make the tenon taller (the direction that the wedge moves). That's where the strength of a tenon comes from (not so much the width) and you had wood to spare on the tenon piece. Thanks.
The wedges in the trestle tables I grew up eating at were slightly different than this, in that they were wider (or at least protruded further out) on the top than on the bottom. This meant that you could tighten them quite firmly by knocking them down into the mortises, and still be able to loosen them just as easily by tapping them on the underside.
I believe you are meaning that the tusk tenon was actually set at a degree, whatever that may be. At least 5 Degrees instead of using straight through. I use 8 Degrees. Just use a preference.
How easy is this joint to come apart? I am going to be making what I will be considering an "Heirloom" master bed for my wife and I and I do not want to use any metal fasteners on it. I have been thinking about doing a tusked joint for the rails into the foot board, but started thinking that they might get loose and wobbly, or might break the end of rail off. I am wanting a joint that is very secure, but will allow us to take the rails out when we move.
Another great joint demo! Great explanation and I really liked how you used multiple tools for the set up. Its shows how well you can make great joints with whatever tools you have.
Really enjoy your videos. You make it look easy which means you're a bad a** but your videos prove that you can always take your work up a level. Keep up the great work.
Do the butt joint for april fools. Also you should do it super serious, like cover several variations (pocket holes, glue and nail, glue and screw, 45 degree staples) and maybe even tour a factory that makes cheap furniture. Finally add a bonus IKEA style cam lock and nut joint at the end.
Great video love the series. I know it doesn’t look fancy but it does take a lot of skill to do and would be good to show your jig doing it I think but full blind dovetails.
I'm really liking the Joint of the Week series! I've done mortise & tenon joints in a way similar to what you show here by hogging out most of the waste in the mortise and then coming back and cleaning up the edges with a chisel. However, I really struggle to get consistent corners when doing this. Do you have any tips on how to square the corners without overshooting the knife lines or bruising the corners?
Leave the corners until last and then tilt your chisel away from the corner but using the flat back of your chisel on the face you already cleaned up. Then attack it at the skew angle. Also you can slow down youtube videos in the setting button so you can watch me do it in slow motion. cheers!
Hullo young man, That joint just screams out as a good quality bed frame. You mentioned using the marking knife, but I have worked it that you like using that particular one is that is your favourite colour. What I cant under stand is why so many followers just don't realise the old knuckle thingy is past its best, LEAVE IT. Do the hinge joint. Keep em waving BIG GUY (in a deep booming voice).
Any rule of thumb about length PAST the wedge for the tenon to make sure the wedge fails before the tenon blows out at the end? Half the thickness of the tenon? More? I know aesthetics are involved but ... failure is not pretty.
Very good! Do you not make a slope on the side of the mortise for the wedge? I don't either but I've seen it recommended. Ah, I've just seen you answered about a slope on wedge but not the mortise.
No but I do cut the mortise so that the back of the wedge will never touch the back of the mortise. That way it will pull in as tight as need be without any room for a screw up where I didn't cut the mortise deep enough.
Could you do a video on having your finish that close to your workpiece without knocking it over? I'd still be cleaning my floor next week if I tried that.
Would you link the mallet please? I love that little thing. Also, could you get a discount code for the Knew fret saw and coping saw plaese? they are soooooooo expensive!
Hi, At the risk of sounded stupid, at 5:03 you mention the measurement to be 1/4 inch either side, how did you come to that measurement? I'm new to this type of joint
I just recently started making my own videos and I am enjoying the process. I don't have much time to work on them with my full time job but I do what I can.
Took me 3 years to go full time and I love every minute of the grind. Best advice I can give you is: do it for the love of teaching and never for the money. It shows in your content and anyone who thinks this is a good way to make a living better want to work 60-80 hour weeks because that's what it takes. I really can't wait to see how you do. I LOVE beer and subscribed. Also stop looking at the view finder screen. Make eye contact with the lens only. It's tough to do but looking at the screen makes everyone look like they're crossed eyed. If you are crossed eyed, look further left hahaha
Great video! Do you find that your marking gauge leaves a small roundover on one side of the line due to the slight flare on one side of the cutter? Maybe I'm pressing to hard, but I've had that gauge leave the outside of my mortises with a slight roundover which can look sloppy. I've started marking the far side of the mortise so that the flare of the cutter is on the waste side of the line. Is this something you've run into?
Go really light with you marking gauge and if needed darken up with your marking knife and a square like I do in this video. I usually wait until I'm ready to cut/chisel before I darken it up, that way I can fix and small errors created during the previous steps.
I can see this joint in a lot of furniture... There is one for my jewelry that I'd like to see. I'd like to see some kind of suspended top or expanded joinery
Is there any advantage to a tapered wedge with the corresponding tapered mortise vs a straight wedge like you did? Your way seems easier to me. Thanks for the great videos!
I had the same question. so given there is a slight taper, does that mean there is a slight gap at the bottom? not that it matters necessarily, just curious how noticeable it is
Somewhere I read here or heard in vid, wedge had very slight taper to about - 5 degrees? Just enough that tapping wedge into tenon will tighten towards the mortised wood. Question : if the tenoned piece is for the side of a bed frame, is it better to do tenon with less shoulder? Or better to have wedge go horizontally into tenon?
@@katzmosestools I wish.haha I'm barely getting single dts on point lately but I still use ur original wood jog for the dove tails always helps me get good results starting to get some wear after 2-yrs.lol I think it's been that long I like urs better than the veritas too btw 👍👍
Wood also "forgives"... Along with flexibility, depending on hardness, moisture content, and species, wood will "squish" a bit... SO you can get away with a little less 1/16" (1mm) with softwoods... and about half-that with hardwoods. Chamfers are also often employed because of this quality... The "crisp 90 degree" square corners are "Chamfered" or carved to a 45 degree, or even rounded over, so help "mating pieces" more easily match up... just a touch of sanding to smooth the surface to surface meetings... and a very tight fit can be managed without splitting... BUT it takes practice... lots of practice... and especially early on, it's easy to split and break joints a LOT... I'm just another "goob" on the internet, but I do a lot with reclaimed wood... "garbage"... SO my current "standard rule of thumb" is to be able to at least get a joint half-way together by hand (no mallet or hammering) in a dry fit before I'm ready to glue and assemble. I try not to let myself get too heavy handed about it, either... but it's okay to work for it a little... wiggling back and forth as you push fingers to slots, or pins to tails (dovetails) or tenon into mortise... etc... Usually around the half-way or two-thirds together territory you can even use a flashlight and visually SEE what's probably going to be a problem (and take care of it) or that you're tight but good to go ahead. ;o)
I am struggling with my butt joints. I am using an old glue stick from back in my school days and it doesn't want to hold. I have never been a fan of nails or screws as they ruin the aesthetic. Its the blu stick brand. Where am I going wrong? It says paper on the side of the glue, but paper is made from wood. Does the glue pattern I put on the wood make a difference?
Okay... Great video! Just a little "technical jargon" if you don't mind... You said, "It's a tusked mortise and tenon with the wedge going vertically"... SO I was wondering if that means "technically" that it's a "keyed mortise and tenon" if we do essentially the same joint with a wedge running horizontally??? OR did I just commit Carpenter's Blasphemy and am now on the target list for the wood-demons to drag me kicking and screaming to Hell again... ;o)
Any diy wood worker can do a tusked mortise. I did 37 before breakfast today in 22 mins but only a skilled craftsman can complete a butt joint. Have you ever seen Norm Abram do one, nope. He couldn't.
This my favorite joint you have done yet, perhaps because I see places I can use it in my work. I was familiar with it, but didn't really know how to knock one out from A to Z. If you could do a butt joint next, that would be GREAT! #huskyboywoodworking
"Do a butt joint you knuckle head!" So how do you make sure you don't sand to much off? Is it just make sure you have little extra on the measurements?
Jonathan Katz-Moses My fault, I should have deleted the comment after I went and watched the recommended video that showed it. That'll teach me to ask a question. 👍
Great video, but truely I can’t understand people thank put a 👎 there’s a lot of great content right in front of them!
Your timing is impeccable - about to do my tusked tenons on my Samurai Carpenter Workbench. Thanks! And..... good job!
Love the wooden rail-road spike wedge. Thanks for sharing.
I love the looks of this joint, thanks for breaking it down and making it look do-able.
I dig it.
If I may, I have a suggestion. Make the tenon taller (the direction that the wedge moves). That's where the strength of a tenon comes from (not so much the width) and you had wood to spare on the tenon piece. Thanks.
Thanks bud
Thank you for this one. Love this look on furniture.
This is such a nice joint. Really makes me rethink my toolbox design. Thanks Jonathan
The wedges in the trestle tables I grew up eating at were slightly different than this, in that they were wider (or at least protruded further out) on the top than on the bottom. This meant that you could tighten them quite firmly by knocking them down into the mortises, and still be able to loosen them just as easily by tapping them on the underside.
I believe you are meaning that the tusk tenon was actually set at a degree, whatever that may be. At least 5 Degrees instead of using straight through. I use 8 Degrees. Just use a preference.
Beautiful joinery! Thanks!
My pleasure Kathleen!
I’m LOVING your videos! Very clear, to the point and and insightful. Thanks for sharing!
My absolute pleasure Alec!
Hey I started this last week, I've gone viral! Glad you liked it!
A diagram or penciling in the tenon would be helpful . What slope is the tusk cut to?
How easy is this joint to come apart? I am going to be making what I will be considering an "Heirloom" master bed for my wife and I and I do not want to use any metal fasteners on it. I have been thinking about doing a tusked joint for the rails into the foot board, but started thinking that they might get loose and wobbly, or might break the end of rail off. I am wanting a joint that is very secure, but will allow us to take the rails out when we move.
It will come apart no problem
Another great joint demo! Great explanation and I really liked how you used multiple tools for the set up. Its shows how well you can make great joints with whatever tools you have.
Really enjoy your videos. You make it look easy which means you're a bad a** but your videos prove that you can always take your work up a level. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Rick!
Do the butt joint for april fools. Also you should do it super serious, like cover several variations (pocket holes, glue and nail, glue and screw, 45 degree staples) and maybe even tour a factory that makes cheap furniture. Finally add a bonus IKEA style cam lock and nut joint at the end.
Bahahahaha I'm saving this for April. Well thought out lol
Great video love the series. I know it doesn’t look fancy but it does take a lot of skill to do and would be good to show your jig doing it I think but full blind dovetails.
Thank you and that's a great idea!
I'm really liking the Joint of the Week series! I've done mortise & tenon joints in a way similar to what you show here by hogging out most of the waste in the mortise and then coming back and cleaning up the edges with a chisel. However, I really struggle to get consistent corners when doing this. Do you have any tips on how to square the corners without overshooting the knife lines or bruising the corners?
Leave the corners until last and then tilt your chisel away from the corner but using the flat back of your chisel on the face you already cleaned up. Then attack it at the skew angle. Also you can slow down youtube videos in the setting button so you can watch me do it in slow motion. cheers!
Hullo young man, That joint just screams out as a good quality bed frame. You mentioned using the marking knife, but I have worked it that you like using that particular one is that is your favourite colour. What I cant under stand is why so many followers just don't realise the old knuckle thingy is past its best, LEAVE IT. Do the hinge joint. Keep em waving BIG GUY (in a deep booming voice).
I think it is hilarious and hope it continues forever! Wooden hinge video is shot, edited and uploaded. Comes out in a week.
Highlighted comment BIG GUY, a say Highlighted comment.
Great 👍 looks amazing
Any rule of thumb about length PAST the wedge for the tenon to make sure the wedge fails before the tenon blows out at the end? Half the thickness of the tenon? More? I know aesthetics are involved but ... failure is not pretty.
I don't really think so. My rule is always make sure the grain is orientated the same way and make sure the wedge is softer than the tenon
Do you cut the wedge at certain degree? How do you suggest doing that with limited tools?
nice contrast. Looks great . I need to try to make something with those Tusked mortise and tenon joints
That is a great looking joint. Surprised at the childliness of a lot of the comments given to you.
hahahaha it's an inside joke about butt joints. If you watch until the end of the scarf joint and this video you'll get it.
Great video, I really like using that joint, very useful.
Such a great joint!
Very good! Do you not make a slope on the side of the mortise for the wedge? I don't either but I've seen it recommended. Ah, I've just seen you answered about a slope on wedge but not the mortise.
No but I do cut the mortise so that the back of the wedge will never touch the back of the mortise. That way it will pull in as tight as need be without any room for a screw up where I didn't cut the mortise deep enough.
@@katzmosestools Yes, that makes sense!
Very well done. I’m enjoying your series on joints.
Another awesome video bud, loving these joint of the week videos!
Thanks brother!
Nice looking joint!
Definately be using this on some future projects!
Such a great joint. Going to use it on a workbench soon.
Essential skills? Where can I connect with that along with my son?
Sick video! Thanks for posting
My pleasure bud!
JOTW is so entertaining to watch
Could you do a video on having your finish that close to your workpiece without knocking it over? I'd still be cleaning my floor next week if I tried that.
I like to live life on the edge hahahahaha
Looks sick
Any tips on making this joint with a 5 degree tilt for something like a barstool?
Would you link the mallet please? I love that little thing. Also, could you get a discount code for the Knew fret saw and coping saw plaese? they are soooooooo expensive!
Have you ever used a hollow chisel mortiser? A 1/2" bit would work perfect for this joint. Love your videos btw!
Hi,
At the risk of sounded stupid, at 5:03 you mention the measurement to be 1/4 inch either side, how did you come to that measurement?
I'm new to this type of joint
Love these videos
I really appreciate it Shane!
"Stay safe in the shop, I Will Not Do A Butt Joint". I loved the whole video but that part made me laugh. Love it.
Bahahahahaha thanks bud!
I just recently started making my own videos and I am enjoying the process. I don't have much time to work on them with my full time job but I do what I can.
Took me 3 years to go full time and I love every minute of the grind. Best advice I can give you is: do it for the love of teaching and never for the money. It shows in your content and anyone who thinks this is a good way to make a living better want to work 60-80 hour weeks because that's what it takes. I really can't wait to see how you do. I LOVE beer and subscribed. Also stop looking at the view finder screen. Make eye contact with the lens only. It's tough to do but looking at the screen makes everyone look like they're crossed eyed. If you are crossed eyed, look further left hahaha
That's great advice thank you.
Love the video . Spectacular editing. I really enjoyed your podcast with made for profit too.
I really appreciate it!
Is the wedge tapered or the same thickness throughout?
I thought the wedge mortise was supposed to be angled commensurate to the wedge. Is that not the case? It looks like you drilled straight through.
good one
"Do a butt Hong you knuckle head". Great work Jonathon. This video series is wonderfully educational
Thanks brother!
Great video! Do you find that your marking gauge leaves a small roundover on one side of the line due to the slight flare on one side of the cutter? Maybe I'm pressing to hard, but I've had that gauge leave the outside of my mortises with a slight roundover which can look sloppy. I've started marking the far side of the mortise so that the flare of the cutter is on the waste side of the line. Is this something you've run into?
Go really light with you marking gauge and if needed darken up with your marking knife and a square like I do in this video. I usually wait until I'm ready to cut/chisel before I darken it up, that way I can fix and small errors created during the previous steps.
Beautiful joinery Sir 😊
Thanks you!
Your videos are awesome! Now please fix that dust filter...it’s driving me crazy lol!
Hahaha just upgraded big time. Check out my Instagram for details
I can see this joint in a lot of furniture...
There is one for my jewelry that I'd like to see. I'd like to see some kind of suspended top or expanded joinery
Can you explain it a little more? I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about...
@@katzmosestools kinda like watching the Matrix. the pieces are not tight together visually, thought the joinery
Is there any advantage to a tapered wedge with the corresponding tapered mortise vs a straight wedge like you did? Your way seems easier to me. Thanks for the great videos!
Actually I slightly tapered the wedge but only slightly. Thanks for the kind words!
I had the same question. so given there is a slight taper, does that mean there is a slight gap at the bottom? not that it matters necessarily, just curious how noticeable it is
@@profkillbot no gap. The taper is very slight
Somewhere I read here or heard in vid, wedge had very slight taper to about - 5 degrees? Just enough that tapping wedge into tenon will tighten towards the mortised wood. Question : if the tenoned piece is for the side of a bed frame, is it better to do tenon with less shoulder? Or better to have wedge go horizontally into tenon?
I love wtm&t joint (tusk) looks nice n tight.good stuff John!
Thanks Joe!
@@katzmosestools always bro! Liking the weekly joint vids! Nice refreshers🍻
Lol that “acronym”.
The triple inlaid dovetails was a refresher? hahaha ;-)
@@katzmosestools I wish.haha I'm barely getting single dts on point lately but I still use ur original wood jog for the dove tails always helps me get good results starting to get some wear after 2-yrs.lol I think it's been that long I like urs better than the veritas too btw 👍👍
thank you . question please wood moves yet i see dovetails and mortise and tenons beat in . how does that not break ? i know i got lots to learn
Wood also "forgives"...
Along with flexibility, depending on hardness, moisture content, and species, wood will "squish" a bit... SO you can get away with a little less 1/16" (1mm) with softwoods... and about half-that with hardwoods.
Chamfers are also often employed because of this quality... The "crisp 90 degree" square corners are "Chamfered" or carved to a 45 degree, or even rounded over, so help "mating pieces" more easily match up... just a touch of sanding to smooth the surface to surface meetings... and a very tight fit can be managed without splitting...
BUT it takes practice... lots of practice... and especially early on, it's easy to split and break joints a LOT...
I'm just another "goob" on the internet, but I do a lot with reclaimed wood... "garbage"... SO my current "standard rule of thumb" is to be able to at least get a joint half-way together by hand (no mallet or hammering) in a dry fit before I'm ready to glue and assemble. I try not to let myself get too heavy handed about it, either... but it's okay to work for it a little... wiggling back and forth as you push fingers to slots, or pins to tails (dovetails) or tenon into mortise... etc...
Usually around the half-way or two-thirds together territory you can even use a flashlight and visually SEE what's probably going to be a problem (and take care of it) or that you're tight but good to go ahead. ;o)
i wonder which channel started it, cause it all appeared around the same tims
I think this is called keyed m&t. Wedged m&t is something else.
Love it!
Thank you!
Do a butt joint knuckle head! Great video, will be using this in my dining room table now in the shop. Thanks for sharing!
I am struggling with my butt joints. I am using an old glue stick from back in my school days and it doesn't want to hold. I have never been a fan of nails or screws as they ruin the aesthetic. Its the blu stick brand. Where am I going wrong? It says paper on the side of the glue, but paper is made from wood. Does the glue pattern I put on the wood make a difference?
Bahahahaha
Okay... Great video!
Just a little "technical jargon" if you don't mind...
You said, "It's a tusked mortise and tenon with the wedge going vertically"... SO I was wondering if that means "technically" that it's a "keyed mortise and tenon" if we do essentially the same joint with a wedge running horizontally???
OR did I just commit Carpenter's Blasphemy and am now on the target list for the wood-demons to drag me kicking and screaming to Hell again... ;o)
Do a but joint you knucklehead! Love this series. Thanks!
I swear Jared you wouldn't dare say that to my face hahaha
Incredible work as always. (But i got a bit concerned about your breathing. Are you ok?)
Muito bom parabéns
Muito obrigado meu amigo! Eu realmente aprecio as palavras gentis.
Woot! Another round of butt jointed knuckle heads! How much slope did you put on the wedge? It didn't look like very much in the video.
Any diy wood worker can do a tusked mortise. I did 37 before breakfast today in 22 mins but only a skilled craftsman can complete a butt joint. Have you ever seen Norm Abram do one, nope. He couldn't.
That may be Kenny but I will never! Cheers bud
Watched this and found myself thinking dude jimmy Kimmel twin brother
This my favorite joint you have done yet, perhaps because I see places I can use it in my work. I was familiar with it, but didn't really know how to knock one out from A to Z.
If you could do a butt joint next, that would be GREAT!
#huskyboywoodworking
Darth Vader at 2:11
First? I've never been first!
You've won the internet today! Select anything from the top shelf sir!
"Do a butt joint you knuckle head!" So how do you make sure you don't sand to much off? Is it just make sure you have little extra on the measurements?
Pretty much make it tight as a duck's ass in water and then sand it until it is as tight as a duck's ass on land
@@katzmosestools 🤔 that's a new analogy 😄 thanks for the reply
hahahaha you got it Cleve!
Do a butt joint, you knuckle head.
Beautiful work mate. Inspiring me to get into hand tool work.
Thanks so much bud!
What is a butt joint?
Look in a mirror ;-)
Jonathan Katz-Moses My fault, I should have deleted the comment after I went and watched the recommended video that showed it. That'll teach me to ask a question. 👍
What about an upside down backwards pinned through butt joint 😂🤣🤣👍🏿
Bahahahahaha
Checking the mitutoyo calipers with a combination square 🤦♂️
"Do a butt joint you knuckle head"
I love your skill and projects, but TOO much Blah Blah
Ugh, let's breath as hard as we can into the mic
Oh fuck off. Let's see your expertly produced video content and see how you deal with the intricacies of audio