KTM 690 throttle body (2008 to 2010) - How it works - plastic gears /
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ย. 2024
- KTM 690 throttle body (2008 to 2010) - How it works - plastic gears
2008 to 2010 were the years these Keihin bodies were mounted on SMCs and Enduros, all SM models also had these (SM, SM Prestige and SMR 690), Dukes also had these from 2008 to 2010 (except the DUKE R).
2011, 2012 and 2013 bikes had a different throttle body.
Thanks for doing this and showing the parts. I have a 2008 690 that is up to 85,000K's and getting some severe poping, misfire, when cold and at low rev's. Once warmed and using more throttle it seems fine. I'm painstakely going through all the obvious things first...and the plastic gear did come up as potential issue considering the miles. It definitely feels like fuel, and it definitely feels that I aren't controlling the throttle so seeing this helps me understand the interactions ...thx
My 690 smc 2008 is starting to act up too but with only 25.000 km on it :O
No problems when cold but when really hot it changes ignition timing from 6.5 to -7 all of a sudden and logs an error p2119 throttle position fault and it starts popping and banging through the exhaust and completely losing all engine power.
I have replaced the TPS sensor (part no: 75041077044) but that did not solve the issue, so now I am waiting for a used throttle body to arrive.
Did you figure out what was causing the issue on your bike?
it turned out to be fixed when I replaced the voltage regulator/rectifier
@@krede99 I had that too, problem was worse when running without lighs and more power dissipated in R/R. My guess is it caused voltage spikes and all the issues you describe. Still battling similar symptoms in the low RPM band at this date...
Did you solved the problems? (I know I'm too late but I have similar problem). I think I'll do the tps adjustment
@@lorenzoturchini8265 I actually needed to replace the piston rings as the oil ring had finally failed, and oil was now in the airbox. I replace, piston and rings and did the valves as well...only because I wanted to. The amazing thing was that the existing Piston and bore were still in perfect condition! Once back together, I fixed the popping with tuning the ECU and increased the fueling for low throttle positions...it's very good now
I am grateful to you for the video, my brother, how should the tps settings be for the 2010 model 690 enduro r, I made some adjustments while the drive motor was connected, do you think the throttle body is broken?
Hello dude, I've Heard some other thing that you've done on KTM on FB.. now I've installed the carburator in my 690 but I've some problem with carburation.. I'd like to change project but I don't know.. Id like to put a new EFI and so throttle body.. also because the 2010 690 has 2 unit control.. and i don't like.. So id like to have your opinion about the original system or if have sense oute a throttle body without the Ept control, only canale control (mechanical throttle body) because the original One Is a sort of ride by wire with cable.. strange things.. an hibrid system.. what's do you think Is Better? I don't know but the original One don't seems reliable and also complex, infact have ad said two ecu.. or I could buy another carbs because I read that the rally 690 with carb it's Better than EFI.. also for the numerous faiulure and complexity of 690 EFI
the wires that come out of the stepper motor, in the middle it is pinched by a zipty, eventually damaging the copper wires inside.
Is that from your (unfortunate) experience with your bike or a friend's bike?
@@the690shed been reading that somewhere on a forum few months ago. when he was measuring the voltages that when he moved that cable that he had fluctuations in the voltage, blaming the thin copper wires and the zipty on that bundle of cables.
So according the my KTM retailer my throttle body is probably broken (my bike stalls all the time when cold), is there a way to fix it or do I have to buy a new one? A new one is like 800 dollars which is quite a lot...
Hello 690Shed, i'm looking for some info/tips/Video to remove the throttle body on a DUKE 690 / 2008
Can you mb help me ?
Hello , do you have the throttle body setting values for the 2011 a have read these a different to other years but have not been able to find more , many thanks nick
Values have to be read (and set) with the throttle body's electric motor unplugged! Otherwise you'll ruin it as it will try to compensate for the changes. There is no other way.
TPSs must be adjusted in that order, the rest of the procedure is the same as the other style of throttle body / tps combo on older 690s.
TPS THAD: 0.28 to 0.32 V (pushed closed with you finger) and the same TPS when resting 0.53 to 0.57 V.
TPS APAD: 0.28 to 0.32 V when resting.
THAD: left side tps (monitors the throttle's real opening angle).
Top value in TuneECU, windows version.
APAD: right side tps (monitors the desired angle if throttle opening).
Bottom value in TuneECU, windows version.
@@the690shed many thanks for your help , I really appreciate it , spent ages looking , will remember to unplug motor , thanks again Nick
@@nickhodgson864 you can find the procedure on adv rider btw. The procedure is also available in the Duke 3 R (2010 and 2011) manuals. But in a more complicated way.
Do you know if it's possible do purchase the famous plastic gear? Maybe from keihin.
Nope. Is yours broken?
@@the690shed I don't know. The bike is strange: few times it stalls, sometimes the minimum is 1500 and other little things. It has no error and with tuneecu I saw that tps voltage is 0.66 (should be 0.70/0.74). I'll try to do the tps adjustment
@@lorenzoturchini8265 Be very careful. You have to read the TPS value with the electric motor disconnected. Lots of people get this wrong. When everything is connected and the key in (ON), the electric motor moves the butterfly a certain degree to adjust the idle. So this value is wrong as is. You can't read it like that. If you try to adjust the left hand side TPS with the electric motor connected you'll ruin everything, the electric motor will try to compensate and that's when you'll break that plastic gear. When the plastic gear is broken the throttle does terrible things like accelerating the engine on its own or not accelerating the engine at all, it's a rare thing. People have turned this into a urban legend but it never breaks. Anyway, find a suitable tutorial guide to adjust the tps on a 690. There's a good one on the french 690 smc forum. Also one on advrider that has been corrected/updated a bit lately. Read it carefuly. Do not read OR adjust anything with the electric motor connected. Just don't.
@@the690shed thank you, I already read the advrider guide, but I didn't know that I should read the TPS tension with the motor of the throttle body disconnected.
I know its been a long time but,how do you take apart the cover with the self locking screws?how do you actually remove them and do you need new ones after youre done?
DREMEL! This will take you 5 minutes, do 2 deep notches to work them out with a flat head screwdriver.
Keep the same bolts, don't make it complicated.
@@the690shed absolute legend
@@the690shed followup question when I put the cap back on a little plastic came out.I assume this is the sensor from the tps.it just flew out,thankfully I found it.question is.is my tps destroyed?can I just put it back on and will it stay? If so how do I know in which position to put it in?or do I go for a new unit?feels like I fucked up...
@@chrischarousis3074 That tip can go both ways.
@@the690shed does it go into the backside of the throttle or into the cap of the tps? Can you actually not do it right?
What is the purpose of the 3 pin sensor on the throttle body?
Right TPS (APAD) reads the desired throttle opening angle and left TPS (THAD) reads the real opening angle of the throttle applied by the electric motor (EPT Electronic Power Throttle).
@@the690shed yeah, but the sensor on the left top handside? The little black one that maybe looks like a temperature sensor? I am not thinking about the tps sensors 😊
MAP sensor.
Manifold absolute pressure.
Hi! How can i remove the two other type screw?
Dremel with a fine disc. Make a "deep" straight cut in them in order to use a flat blade screwdriver. Simple.
Do you know how many mm the screw of the end of stroke sticks out?
What model/year?
@@the690shed Sorry for the delay, I have a smcr 2012. I have different tps sensors but the internal gear is the same.
@@Miky039903 Usually it's about 2.1/2.2 mm measured on the right side of the bolt, to the casting where it's bolted in. It's hard to measure very precisely in that area as the measure is really small + nothing's really flat.
@@the690shed thank you very much, I'll check mine to be sure it's right. Do you know the lenght of the end of stroke on the throttle's cable side? The screw with the cap glued on it, with the yellow mark.
@@Miky039903 sorry for the delay. Are we both talking about the same screw? The one hidden under the left plastic cover? Or are you talking about the screw on the right side of the throttle body, that is used to adjust the APAD's voltage?
Anyone know of the possibility of replacing the throttle body of an early 690 with the stronger 2011+ brass design? They have different part numbers, so KTM does not seem to have retrofitted them on their older bikes..
Hello mate, the presence of brass or copper gears in the later ones isn't true (I've read that on ADV Rider or elsewhere too), I've opened both (I myself have a 2011 SMC and a friend of mine has a 2013 SMC R).
They break less, yes, but why? I don't know, I have theories but no facts.
Maybe it is because the EPT motor is less active in these, or not active in the same way.
Exact same gears inside.
@@the690shed Thanks for your input. Strange that this myth has taken on then. Another theory is that since they started with double balancing shafts in the lc4, the decrease in vibrations reduce the likelyhood of the stepper motor and encoders to un-sync, which could wear out the gear (then it can keep doing minute adjustments).
@@AdrianTosteberg Yeah strange, like you said.
Here's a link/photo that I took that shows the 2 styles side by side (LEFT / THAD Side).
i59.servimg.com/u/f59/17/78/92/80/img_2162.jpg
Double balancing shafts?
What year are you talking about?
Euro 3 (63 + 67 bhp) engines have only one, it sits in the same "chamber" as the crankshaft, at the front of the engine.
@@the690shed could installing new maps contribute to the failing plastic gears? I find it rather odd that it would wear the plastics.
I don't see why.
On top of that, most EPT maps are the same...
Thats a 600€ fix that im facing and thats only for the part. Considering a second hand throttle body...
Make sur you adjust both tps, get the correct maps for the hardware you have and eliminate all the other possible flaws (mechanical) before getting a new one. I've never seen one failed yet, everytime I've found out that the problem was elsewhere.
But I have seen plenty of people with all the problems mentionned above.
I have also seen shops not beeing able to adjust them correctly.
Or shops trying to sell you a complete throttle body even if it's only a faulty tps...
Know your bike, find some proper infos (the repair manual is a gokd start) and fix it.
People selling them online most of the time sell them because they are a "faulty" , on top of that, a used one needs to be recalibrated. Same thing for a"brand new one", it will need a recalibration in a couple of years, maybe 5, maybe 10.