As a retired General Contractor, I ran into these 2 conundrums more than a few time. I would show the client the same calcs you spoke of and in all but 1 job...the clients came back after the job and said, "you were right, thank you for you honesty..."....Well done At Your Service!!!
Normally I don't see roof venting on both slopes of the roof, usually they are only installed on the back side of the roof so that it has a nice clean look from the street side.
When it comes to attic ventilation I don’t care about looks. However when you have two vents across from each other they suck in one and vent out the other, not from the soffit. You need them to pull from the soffit.
Yeah, soffits are often covered over by spray foam insulation and so are too small for the task they need to accomplish. During intense summer heat, have a look at how hot the attic is and tell me there is adequate ventilation. Your AC system is working overtime to cool the main floor. Problem is, most attics are not air tight, meaning that cold air from the downstairs can be drawn up into the attic if there is poor flow through intake vents. That will be even worse if an attic fan pushes out more than soffits can take in.
@@spelunkerd This is why I’m a big fan of gable vents. They provide good airflow and in areas where it gets very cold, can help prevent moisture problems of hot attic air that gets enough moisture to condense on the ice cold roof. All modern unfinished attics should be well vented with adequate insulation on the floor.
@@hugegamer5988 I always used gable vents building before I retired . I would put soffit vents in with block offs in the attic to keep insulation from plugging them . But most of the insulators would still blow a few of them full . So I only depended on them to vent the soffit area and depend on my gable vents and roof vents to take care of the attic . If I was still building I would keep doing it that way .
Thank You, in 5 minutes you gave us a general understanding of ventilation, specifics X vent of X size per 150 sq ft. Additionally answering why and what happens if you have ventilation that is designed wrong. That an Intake may become an Exhaust and circulation and movement of hot air may be restricted. Excellent job with this video.
My first home was a 100 year old two story. I had a new roof installed in the early 80s and the roofer installed only a couple of boxes…no ridge or soffit vents. I decided to add three gable vents a few years later and when A/C was installed in the mid-90s,a power roof exhaust fan was included. The shingles that were put on in the 80s are still on and NOT leaking! That’s around 30+ years. Oh, and those are 25-year shingles.
Asphalt shingles are no longer made to the high quality they once were. The "Ask the Builder" column writer wrote an entire book on the decline of the quality of asphalt shingles
I had ridge cobra vents installed with my new roof along all ridges and a I installed a motorized vent fan over my garage on the roof. Its the old school one with the dome over it. Its a 1955 house so there is no ceiling in my garage. That motorized roof vent works awesome. I have a big thermometer attached to the inside peak and the motorized fan lowers the garage temp by ten degree's. That and I had 2 feet of blow in installation installed in the ceiling. Lowered my electric bill 40%.
@@georgewanamaker5346yes. Airflow in winter is very important. Your attic will warm up from heat loss through the attic insulation and from warming up from the sun and if it gets warm enough it melts the snow and then the water flows down the roof to the eaves which are still cold. Then the water freezes and creates an ice dam. Then the water that's flowing down starts pooling and can run under the shingles and into the house.
@georgewanamaker5346 personal experience I've had is I didn't have air intake no soffit vents, the insulation froze to the plywood blocking air coming in. In the spring when it started to warm up, the ice that built up under the plywood over winter melted and it was raining in my attic. Winter is more important than summer. I cut the soffit out with a skill saw and put vents in. The attic was dry in two days.
@@georgewanamaker5346 Venting is way more critical in cold climates. Forget what this guy said about g.e. vents. THEY HELP even if you don't have soffit vents. Common sense should tell you that heat loss through your ceiling insulation has to go somewhere. Warmer air WILL ALWAYS CONDENSE ON COLD SURFACES (like the under side of your roof deck unless it has somewhere to vent out. Soffit vents absolutely help to ventilate the warm air out of the truss space. As a home designer with an understanding of some basic laws of physics, and former contractor, I will argue this point till the cows come home. I've got numerous experiences dealing with this in cold climates, from inadequate insulation, to no soffit vents or any vents, to commercial structures (a 3 story, 30 plus unit, hotel where the hvac guys vented all the bathroom fart fans directly into the truss space on a building I had my crew reroof the previous summer. The roof was vented properly but couldn't keep up with tons of moist air vented directly into truss space above the insulation in winter. Thick frost built up on underside of roof deck and began to melt on warmer days causing water damage to drywall ceilings. The manager accused my roofers of doing a shitty job till I looked in the truss space with a flashlight and saw all those interconnected fart fan ducts venting into the truss space instead of out through the roof or wall.) I also had a single family dwelling that my guys reroofed the summer before. The homeowner was pissed when he saw water damage to the ceiling on his 50+ year old hip roof where the hip corners only had 3" of insulation. He called me after a couple of mild weather, sunny days. I said, over the phone: "Let me guess. The water damage is happening in the corner rooms right and it hasn't rained because it's winter." He said yes, how did you know? I diagnosed that one over the phone. Bottom line: gable end vents don't hurt in any climate. Soffit vents are hugely helpful.
Friend of mine worked as a shingle salesman, he told me almost every single home in new developments have 1/2 the amount of vents required. And he is ok with that as the shingles fail after 10 years and not 20+ due to them cooking from the inside.
Continuous ridge vents can become clogged over time in windy , dusty regions and loose their effectiveness. Another method might be using an attic fan exhausted to the outside. There are solar powered models available .
I warned a neighbor about their north-south ridge with predominant west winds before their new roof installation. He surely didn't really follow, and surely wrote it off as remote-chance nonsense, and that the roofers will make an adequate decision. Well guess what -- their ceilings got soaked. So my experience and suspicion was right after all. BTW, I believe the ceilings are fixed, and the roof is still the same -- it's likely to happen again. BBTW: I would really warn against roof ridges perpendicular to predominate winds with a house situated on the up-hill side -- winds get even stronger there.
The house next door was built in the 1960s and had continuous soffit vents in a screened gap in the plywood. A later reno covered the plywood with aluminum sheeting, but NOT the vented type, so they covered the old vent totally. The most expensive and well known roofer in town installed a new roof a couple of years ago, put roof exhaust venting up top, but did not recreate soffit inlets. I told my neighbor that would cause problems and told her about the bad reno. She called back the roofer who said soffit vents are not needed! So she was angry with ME for humiliating her by having her ask dumb questions of the roofer. Still no soffit vents today!
I bought my home and had little to zero soffit vents, wintertime icicles 4 foot long. Had it sided and insisted all soffit would be vented, Zero icicles. Air in the bottom and out through the top. Trusting contractors today..GOOD LUCK.
The more modern approach is to use spray foam insulation which requires a sealed attic space. That was the method used in my house constructed in 2001. The spray foam was applied when the weather it was warm and the different in temp inside the house before and after the foam was applied was amazing even in the sealed attic space with a metal roof. The spray foam also adds structural stability and soundproofing. The house is a mile inland in NC along the ICW where we’ve gotten winds of 70mph+. I my other houses with aluminum or vinyl siding and fiberglass bat insulation it would be howling and rattling but in ours with cement Hardie Board exterior and spray foam it is sealed like drum, so much so that the HVAC need and outside inlet for fresh air, and very quiet.
I took out all my roof vents, out of the attic and added spray foam insulation and now it's grate storage area. I only clicked on this video because in my situation it was true,... I don't need them, nor does my A frame vacation house, or my slope roof shop don't need them.
My home has ridge vents and mini-gable vents. There are also soffits, but most are blocked which will require a contractor to remove the blocking material.
We just built a new home in SW Florida and now the building code has no exit ventilation, only soffit ventilation. All the new homes are built this way. Doesn’t seem to make sense to me.
Our gable is vented but still extremely hot in the attic space so making the upstairs hotter than it should be & thought of installing 2 solar powered vents to pull hot air out. Do u think this would be a good option in the fall because it's too hot now even here in NH? Thanks for the video.
In Alberta Canada in a rural area with very little trees. Those ridge vents can let snow in when the wind is howling at the right direction. Great otherwise
Thanks for the info on Corning's web site! I had my roof done two years ago with their biggest flowing ridge vent sections. I need to address the intake square footage now.
I’ve never seen older homes with the type of ventilation you are talking about most homes in my area used to date back to post civil war era 1870’s-1920’s most have attic space or in my case a flat roof and crawl space. My brick construction home not wooden frame and brick siding but triple brick foundations and double brick walls have only a few bricks removed from the edges of the crawl space near the roof in a triangular pattern to allow air to flow into and out of the roof. Why do new houses need such enormous amounts of ventilation? Why do newer homes not use Joe Lstiburek building science recommended building practices for attic installation?
I don't like the ridge vent or box vents roofers seem to go with now. I got estimates and they all cut out for the ridge vent. I have the gable vents with very well vented soffits. This along with a gable fan and thermostat, my simple 3 tab shingles lasted 30 years in NY. I will now have to block up my gables for the new ridge vent. By design my gables vent out a lot more air than a ridge vent. Sad to see an awesome system replaced with something inferior. It's like the new gas cans replacing the old. Changing something that works extremely well as it is.
I blocked the Gable vents on my father’s home, switched to a baffled ONLY NOT filtered ridge vent, his attic temps dropped dramatically. We only use Lomanco because all the others seem to use furnace filters, guess what furnace filters do,,,they CLOG..! I dropped the attic ladder, and especially with a slight breeze, activating the baffles, it felt like a fan kicking on at that opening. He was especially impressed because we went from a light green roof to a Black roof. And still dropped temps dramatically!!!
Our house didn’t come with back soffits, and in order to get them, the entire roof pitch including trusses would have to be redone. Some of us have to live with what we have.
@@DawnRK3204 There are deck air options, but what I usually do is use LOMANCO vented drip edge. It is a solid option that some people are skeptical of. They are afraid that you are drawing in moist gutter air. When there is moisture down there, typically it is cool, because it is raining, or just rained. There is very little air exchange at these times. If the sun comes out and heats up the attic, the gutter should be empty already.
Have to disagree with you there. Stack vents are the best. But that’s for me in Canada snow covers those little plastic box ones. But anything at the peak of the roof is much better than gable vents. I block gable vents and install box vents. Sometimes ridge vents but rarely. I see they are better for more even distribution, but they are a pain to install in comparison and get covered by snow unless a steep roof. Stack vents stand above the snow, and have a higher output capacity. They take the win. Except for one circumstance where it’s an old cathedral ceiling with rafters instead of trusses (each bay needs dedicated venting) and it’s low slope so standard ridge vents will be buried, have to go ‘maximum cathedral vent’. Metal ridge vent chase that runs to stack vent(s) mounted on top. Insulated to prevent condensation. Vents every bay separately as a ridge vent would, but air leaves from higher up, above snow and just higher pulling power being higher above peak.
Ridge vents destroyed my home, had to go back to the box vents. Any wind driven rain caused leaks and the exhaust air flow was miniscule in comparison. My wife's rental house had the exact same issues when switching to ridge vents.
I’ve had good success with ridge vents. Not sure why they would be more susceptible to wind driven rain than a box - unless the wind is so strong that it’s blowing water up the shingles. Perhaps a bad install?
As a note, there was a type of ridge vent I had. It was essentially like corrugated cardboard, only made of plastic. What happened was the spacer/airway (corrugated plastic) wicked water by capillary action, and that dripped and ran water. It messed up the roof sheathing and a ceiling. The ridge vent spacer was replaced by a more substantial spacer, and that has been OK. The roofer said the previous stuff is no longer sold.
My house is 150 years old. It only has gable end vents, and they aren't that big. The last time I shingled it, the original boards and studs were in very good condition. It must be due to the fact I live in the Northeast. I don't know. I was also told once that putting too much insulation in these old homes creates too cold a cavity in the winter, causing more condensation to form into ice. When there was more heat loss, this heat aided in moving out the condensation. I don't know. All I can say is that my house has endured the test of time.
I have an uninsulated detached garage with open soffits that leaks like a sieve. My Village required the contractor that replaced the roof to install 3 vents. :-C
i have a well insulated home .i had ridge vents .i installed whirly birds havent turned the air conditioner since . everything was properly installed but had heat build up till the whirly birds . so i dont know why the heat didnt exscape well enough . i have proper soffet venting . jusy dont know now .
Even tho many houses will have soffit vets. 90% of those soffit vents are either plugged with dirt/spider webs, insulation blocking the opening, etc. Creating a hot box effect. And if there is enough insulation besides the minimum. How many home owners go that far to even look or care? Having gable vents I believe is better for cross air winds to help the house breath.
My roofer (gaf certified)pointed out whoever did my soffit only put vented panels on one side of the house. So now i need to remove gutters, facia and install vented soffit on 3 sides (hip roof)so i get proper venting also recommended getting rid of the power vent and used those box vents but had to add a few. Old roof had a power vent and about 4 box vents.
Yeah, I’ve been told to remove power vents in favor of ridge or box. But I also get the sneaky suspicion that some of this is unjustified and simply a way for roofers to sound like they know what they’re talking about.
I noticed a new trend where the ridge vent was extended partially down a hip roof joint. I don't think I see this as bad, but I am wary of ridge vent perpendicular to predominant winds; and this will give that (most likely).
Is venting stilling needed if I want to 'condition' my attic space so as to make for better and pest free storage space and the HVAC does not have to work as hard. Or is my understanding anyway.
My question/comment is in reference to current building science and the latest building codes. I have recently built my own off grid house and am currently building an off grid cottage. Both structures have 6 and 4 inches respectively of XPS rigid insulation on the roof deck under 2x4 battens and the steel roofing. The area under the roof is conditioned space. My house has been through 2 full winters in the mountains of CO climate zone 7 I believe. I have 0 roof vents and have experienced no condensation or moisture problems that I'm aware of. How do you or anyone else with roofing experience feel about my choices? Oh, it's a 1300sqft 2 story house off grid with solar power for electric heat and a propane backup rinnai wall heater. I'm also using a whole house HRV.
@At Your Service Roofing ... Your video is accurate. Of course, too many just cannot seem to wrap their head around facts. EDIT That's why they _need_ people like you! :-)
Excellent explanation of the combo vents and the issues. I am thinking of using closed cell foam insulation under my roof deck and obviously having no venting at all and completely condition the space. Would you have an opinion on this?
I am no expert but spray foam is not like other traditional insulation methods. Usually, there would be an air gap right under your roof sheets by using baffles and then r30 (Southern California region) insulation. The air gap will allow airflow to cool the roof in summer heat. With foam there may not be an air gap.
Has anyone done an actual test of roof ventilation? Put temperature and air movement sensors in an attic and seen how various ventilation systems work over several days? It would be trivial. Yet all I hear is a dozen "rules of thumb" and all I see are simplistic websites with calculators. It's a function of the shape of the roof, what ventilation is where on that roof, orientation of the home and outdoor weather conditions. The color of the roof and what material it's made out of are also factors. Roof shapes vary wildly with pitch, gables, etc., especially on larger homes. I'm sure there are mechanical engineering software packages that can model a specific roof, its environment and predict airflow and temperature. I put a temperature sensor in my attic and when my roof fan turns on, I see the temperature drop 20 degrees. Has anyone else put sensor(s) in your (an) attic? Before I buy a new roof, I will put three sensors up there and if it looks good over several days of varying weather conditions, insist on the same ventilation system I have. Or insist on corrections based on the data. I don't think this is too much to ask for a $15,000 roof.
Attic ventilation is not an exact science, as long as there are some vents it's good enough. A 1000 cfm attic fan says it needs 480 sq inches of net free air yet when the fan is off and works as a passive vent it can put out 144 sq inches of net air so why would a 15 inch fan need more than it could put out which would be about 144 sq inches? And if you have 480 sq inches of soffit intake how do you get balanced ventilation since the fan 95% of the time is off and works as a passive 144 sq inch exhaust?
Decades of installations is not enough for you? Code/s are not enough for you? What you suggest has been done, and no, it's not trivial. To skip ahead, in short, you don't know anything about this. Simply, it's usually a 1/150 or 1/300 system, balanced, as he clearly states in the video, by square inch.
@@Jeffs60 "as long as there are some vents it's good enough" ... Wrong. Not having a proper system can destroy... everything. To answer your questions, research/learn. You can start by learning fans don't put out "sq inches of net air", and neither do intake nor exhaust vents. Square inches refer to the actual intake and exhaust space/area. Air moving in/out of vents/fans is the CFM, cubic feet per minute.
The critical thing for ventilation is air intake and air exhaust. If you only have exhaust air will stagnate and not move throughout your roof system. The engineers and experts state that you need equal to or greater than net free area of air intake to feed the exhaust or it will not naturally self convict, but will stagnate within your roof system.😅
I like the plastic soffits with the groves and slot vents. They need to be installed well so bees don't find their way in, and, as usual, insulation can't block rafter space.
I know i need to increase the venting in my garage attic, it's about 1300 sq.ft. would it be easier/better to install a thermostat controlled gable vent fan to blow the hot air out?
My experience with a power vent system is this. First, they are a bit faulty. You don't know they are not working until you inspect them. In 30 years mine went out twice. And because of the amount of air they move they tend to draw air from other areas (unless your roof venting is set up totally correctly for the application) thus decreasing the effectiveness that proper attic ventilation would provide. Which ever way you vent you need the whole system to match it properly.
I'm not sure I agree. You seem to want me to believe that by having gable end vents in addition to box vents (turtle vents where I come from), the laws of physics get suspended and hot air no longer rises from below the g.e. vents. Think about it. Other than power attic vents, the most efficient vents are turbine vents. Continuous ridge vents next and then box vents. The last two are more prone to getting covered with snow (obviously) and losing effectiveness, hence why g.e. vents aren't affected by two feet or more of snow on the roof and still ventilate the attic space.
If you've ever smoked a cigarette in an attic, you would find quite a bit of air goes up through the box/turtle vent, whereas very little air moves through a continuous ridge vent.
An air conditioning manufacturer told me by adding a power roof fan is like adding 1/2 ton to your air conditioner system. You're not waiting for the heat to rise but it is being removed. The heat migrating to your living space is reduced. I bought a Govee Bluetooth Hygrometer Thermometer, Wireless Thermometer, Mini Humidity Sensor with Notification Alert. It gives me temp and humidity and as of this writing my attic is 7:16 am, temp 61.5 and humidity is 52.7%. My neighbor had problem with her AC never reaching temp and installed a PRF and temp was reached.
@@maddierosemusic Up through the roof, 2 foot down from the peak. My fan was between 900 -1000 CFM. Stay away from the large fans, looking for a nice draw not hurricane winds.
i dont agree that 'over-ventilating' is a problem. you're saying cool air entering through the gable vent will prevent soffit vent intake and essentially short circuit the ventilation system. however, the cool air from the gable vents will not flow directly upwards to the box vents or ridge vent. instead, because cooler air is more dense it will fall to attic floor to displace the air exiting near the roof peak. the air near the box vents or ridge vent will always be the hottest air in the attic. nice thing about gable vents is it's quick and easy and inexpensive to get a lot of ventilation square footage out of them, and they offer little resistance to air flow. and these ones are already in place so maybe the homeowner wants to replace the box vents with ridge vents to expand the roof exhaust. but there is no good reason to defeat the existing gable vents and good reason not to
I would never have a ridge vent. They weaken the peak of the roof, are prone to damage, prone to shrinkage which makes them leak, and they block the peak of the roof from walking and materials during maintenance. They slightly improve ventilation but create numerous other problems.
Great info for sure, great video as well. Just wondering, here in snow country, we at times have feet of snow on our ridge vents. Do they just not work for the months of that? Is that why we also have a gable vent?
@@rschneid1996 I get that over heating is not an issue, per se'. But in the north, we get Ice dambing that can do tragic damage to roof edging and several feet up from soffets. One way to combat that is air circulation.
@@rschneid1996 When the roof gets to any temp over 32 degrees , the resulting melt water refreezes, at or above the eves. The question was, does a ridge vent breath when covered for months mid winter.
@@70ixlr86 Do you know if the "Ice and Water Shield" membrane actually helps in this instance, or is it just marketing? It's code in many areas and I can't think it works very well.
I have to disagree: After year of a passive "ridge vent" and soffit vents, we later getting the roof replace with no ridge vent but installing a powered fan while retaining the soffit vents. Now the attic is basically outside temp all the time. If it's 95* in July, the attic is 95*, not 120*+ because we're waiting on heat to rise. Powered fans for the win!
I can't count the times I've had to argue with people about mixing soffit-ridge ventilation with gable vents. Not only do gable vents reduce the flow from the soffits they also cause a cross wind effect. That disrupts the up-flow which is already reduced. Very bad practice.
Ridge vents are bad because they have a filter that clogs with dirt and snow. They also need to be installed perfectly. Those box vents are not installed properly. If you mount them on both sides of the roof they draw from each other and not the soffit. Those calculators are also not great. Some rooflines are not boxes so you need to accommodate for all attic spaces.
IMO, ridge vents are worthless. Far too little air flow. As to your contention that the gable vent will become an intake and the hot air at the lower portions of the attic will not vent, that does not follow physics. The hot air will rise and draw from the soffit vents.
For people looking to keep their house cool. Plant some trees that will provide plenty of shade around your house and if you already have large trees, leave them.
First Understand this video is an advertisement for Owens Corning products. Air exchange is the objective, gable vents will work just fine if soffit vents aren’t in place. Don’t over think it
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Something is bad wrong with the calculations. Every time one of my customers gets a new roof, they remove the roof vents and or power vents and install a ridge vent. Now in the summertime the attic is 30° hotter than it was. Stop doing this, you are wrong! Your customer paid a lot of money to put that power ventilator on their house, leave it the hell alone! YOU ARE WRONG - STOP DOING THIS!!! You are getting your information from the manufacturer of the ridge vents.
@@fields297 I'm an air conditioner technician I work in Georgia attics all year round. Every time one of my clients gets a new roof I deal with a 10 to 15 degree hotter attic and it's making my job much more miserable. I'm sorry but I'm not finding any of these houses that are making it better. On a hot sunny still Georgia day a home with just a ridge vent, the air just stops and there is no convection at that point I have read temperatures as high as 130° and I did not stay long. Roofing companies need to leave power ventilators alone most homeowners don't even know you are removing them they paid a lot of money for them they serve a purpose!!!
Our house has two "gable vents" in the front, so I thought that would be a perfect place for a large fan to force additional attic ventilation on hot days. WRONG!!! The gable vents are fake; strictly decorative. Rather than breach the WRB and run the risk of water intrusion, I left everything as is with the box and soffit vents.
I had a power vent in my house complete with the temp control and all but the roofer said GAF will not warranty my roof if i had one. Only way to satisfy their 50 year warranty was box vents I installed it in my detached garage roof. Sucks out all the heat, paint fumes, exhaust fumes etc. for
There are so many variables that the Owens Corning calculator doesnt take into account. 1. They type of soffit and the amount of air pushed by it. 2. Sectioned off or separated parts off the attic. 3. Cathedral and vaulted ceilings. All that being said (and thats just 3 examples) the calculation of attic space is EASILY AND COMMONLY miscalculated. A single cathedral ceiling can put you off by hundreds of square feet from the start. Attics are commonly sectioned off and separated into smaller individual areas. There is a drastic difference in the types of soffit and the amount of air restriction. So, in summary, the Owens Corning calculator only works only if you're looking at all the variables (which 99% of contractors DO NOT) If the upstairs of your home is excessively hot, it could be an lack of insulation NOT VENTILATION. Hat vents have been outdated for over a decade....just run ridge vent and you will be fine for ventilation as far as the roof is concerned.
I live in the desert...... worked in hundreds of attics......... on a summer day attic with out vents 120 degrees attic with vents 119 degrees........ the inside of house is not affected ,,,,,,,,
As a retired General Contractor, I ran into these 2 conundrums more than a few time. I would show the client the same calcs you spoke of
and in all but 1 job...the clients came back after the job and said, "you were right, thank you for you honesty..."....Well done At Your Service!!!
Appreciate you thank you!
One of the first guys I heard talk about the most important thing!!! VENTALATION ! Excellent !
Normally I don't see roof venting on both slopes of the roof, usually they are only installed on the back side of the roof so that it has a nice clean look from the street side.
@Migglesworth LOL! Uh, it works, all on the back side, if it is properly calculated.
When it comes to attic ventilation I don’t care about looks. However when you have two vents across from each other they suck in one and vent out the other, not from the soffit. You need them to pull from the soffit.
That is providing you have proper intake at the soffits. You cannot have proper exhaust without proper intake.
Yeah, soffits are often covered over by spray foam insulation and so are too small for the task they need to accomplish. During intense summer heat, have a look at how hot the attic is and tell me there is adequate ventilation. Your AC system is working overtime to cool the main floor. Problem is, most attics are not air tight, meaning that cold air from the downstairs can be drawn up into the attic if there is poor flow through intake vents. That will be even worse if an attic fan pushes out more than soffits can take in.
@@spelunkerd This is why I’m a big fan of gable vents. They provide good airflow and in areas where it gets very cold, can help prevent moisture problems of hot attic air that gets enough moisture to condense on the ice cold roof. All modern unfinished attics should be well vented with adequate insulation on the floor.
@@hugegamer5988 I always used gable vents building before I retired . I would put soffit vents in with block offs in the attic to keep insulation from plugging them . But most of the insulators would still blow a few of them full . So I only depended on them to vent the soffit area and depend on my gable vents and roof vents to take care of the attic . If I was still building I would keep doing it that way .
@@hugegamer5988 gable vents have been proven to no work at all
Thank You, in 5 minutes you gave us a general understanding of ventilation, specifics X vent of X size per 150 sq ft. Additionally answering why and what happens if you have ventilation that is designed wrong. That an Intake may become an Exhaust and circulation and movement of hot air may be restricted. Excellent job with this video.
My first home was a 100 year old two story. I had a new roof installed in the early 80s and the roofer installed only a couple of boxes…no ridge or soffit vents. I decided to add three gable vents a few years later and when A/C was installed in the mid-90s,a power roof exhaust fan was included. The shingles that were put on in the 80s are still on and NOT leaking! That’s around 30+ years. Oh, and those are 25-year shingles.
Asphalt shingles are no longer made to the high quality they once were. The "Ask the Builder" column writer wrote an entire book on the decline of the quality of asphalt shingles
the best video from youtube when it comes to clear explanation. i do hope you make a lot more videos like this
Thank you this is amazing we super appreciate it!🙌
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I got rid of my whirlybirds and installed a ridge vent. Huge improvement.
Then, more than likely, whoever installed your whirlies did not properly calculate the intake and exhaust... in regard to square footage.
@@MundiTaurus Yes. I like the ridge vent. Clean look, effective, no moving parts, silent.
i had ridge vents and added 2 whirleybirds...big improvement for me
I live in fl.I hated my ridge vent,went back with 3 14" whirlybirds.Whirlybirds for the win!
@@kenmcdavid9632 Hey, whatever solution works best for you.
I had ridge cobra vents installed with my new roof along all ridges and a I installed a motorized vent fan over my garage on the roof. Its the old school one with the dome over it. Its a 1955 house so there is no ceiling in my garage. That motorized roof vent works awesome. I have a big thermometer attached to the inside peak and the motorized fan lowers the garage temp by ten degree's. That and I had 2 feet of blow in installation installed in the ceiling. Lowered my electric bill 40%.
I live in a snow climate, those low profile /low rise vents are soon fully covered with snow as winter starts... After that, no airflow.
Do you need airflow in winter?
@@georgewanamaker5346yes. Airflow in winter is very important. Your attic will warm up from heat loss through the attic insulation and from warming up from the sun and if it gets warm enough it melts the snow and then the water flows down the roof to the eaves which are still cold. Then the water freezes and creates an ice dam. Then the water that's flowing down starts pooling and can run under the shingles and into the house.
@@matthewb7740 Yep. Now I get it! Thx!
@georgewanamaker5346 personal experience I've had is I didn't have air intake no soffit vents, the insulation froze to the plywood blocking air coming in. In the spring when it started to warm up, the ice that built up under the plywood over winter melted and it was raining in my attic. Winter is more important than summer. I cut the soffit out with a skill saw and put vents in. The attic was dry in two days.
@@georgewanamaker5346
Venting is way more critical in cold climates. Forget what this guy said about g.e. vents. THEY HELP even if you don't have soffit vents. Common sense should tell you that heat loss through your ceiling insulation has to go somewhere. Warmer air WILL ALWAYS CONDENSE ON COLD SURFACES (like the under side of your roof deck unless it has somewhere to vent out. Soffit vents absolutely help to ventilate the warm air out of the truss space. As a home designer with an understanding of some basic laws of physics, and former contractor, I will argue this point till the cows come home. I've got numerous experiences dealing with this in cold climates, from inadequate insulation, to no soffit vents or any vents, to commercial structures (a 3 story, 30 plus unit, hotel where the hvac guys vented all the bathroom fart fans directly into the truss space on a building I had my crew reroof the previous summer. The roof was vented properly but couldn't keep up with tons of moist air vented directly into truss space above the insulation in winter. Thick frost built up on underside of roof deck and began to melt on warmer days causing water damage to drywall ceilings. The manager accused my roofers of doing a shitty job till I looked in the truss space with a flashlight and saw all those interconnected fart fan ducts venting into the truss space instead of out through the roof or wall.) I also had a single family dwelling that my guys reroofed the summer before. The homeowner was pissed when he saw water damage to the ceiling on his 50+ year old hip roof where the hip corners only had 3" of insulation. He called me after a couple of mild weather, sunny days. I said, over the phone: "Let me guess. The water damage is happening in the corner rooms right and it hasn't rained because it's winter." He said yes, how did you know? I diagnosed that one over the phone.
Bottom line: gable end vents don't hurt in any climate. Soffit vents are hugely helpful.
Very informative. Thanks!
To calculate you say LxW of the building. Doesn’t roof pitch play a role too?
Just add an exhaust fan from Home Depot on the side vent and that will solve your problem,also it’s an easy installation
Friend of mine worked as a shingle salesman, he told me almost every single home in new developments have 1/2 the amount of vents required. And he is ok with that as the shingles fail after 10 years and not 20+ due to them cooking from the inside.
Continuous ridge vents can become clogged over time in windy , dusty regions and loose their effectiveness. Another method might be using an attic fan exhausted to the outside. There are solar powered models available .
And they can leak if you have blowing powder snow , depending on the vent material.
I warned a neighbor about their north-south ridge with predominant west winds before their new roof installation. He surely didn't really follow, and surely wrote it off as remote-chance nonsense, and that the roofers will make an adequate decision. Well guess what -- their ceilings got soaked. So my experience and suspicion was right after all.
BTW, I believe the ceilings are fixed, and the roof is still the same -- it's likely to happen again.
BBTW: I would really warn against roof ridges perpendicular to predominate winds with a house situated on the up-hill side -- winds get even stronger there.
The house next door was built in the 1960s and had continuous soffit vents in a screened gap in the plywood. A later reno covered the plywood with aluminum sheeting, but NOT the vented type, so they covered the old vent totally. The most expensive and well known roofer in town installed a new roof a couple of years ago, put roof exhaust venting up top, but did not recreate soffit inlets. I told my neighbor that would cause problems and told her about the bad reno. She called back the roofer who said soffit vents are not needed! So she was angry with ME for humiliating her by having her ask dumb questions of the roofer. Still no soffit vents today!
I bought my home and had little to zero soffit vents, wintertime icicles 4 foot long.
Had it sided and insisted all soffit would be vented, Zero icicles.
Air in the bottom and out through the top.
Trusting contractors today..GOOD LUCK.
your neighbor probably a Democrat
It should catch up with them in shorter roof life.
You are correct,roofer didn’t want the extra work
@@louf7178 And a backup ice if ur up north.
The more modern approach is to use spray foam insulation which requires a sealed attic space. That was the method used in my house constructed in 2001. The spray foam was applied when the weather it was warm and the different in temp inside the house before and after the foam was applied was amazing even in the sealed attic space with a metal roof.
The spray foam also adds structural stability and soundproofing. The house is a mile inland in NC along the ICW where we’ve gotten winds of 70mph+. I my other houses with aluminum or vinyl siding and fiberglass bat insulation it would be howling and rattling but in ours with cement Hardie Board exterior and spray foam it is sealed like drum, so much so that the HVAC need and outside inlet for fresh air, and very quiet.
I took out all my roof vents, out of the attic and added spray foam insulation and now it's grate storage area. I only clicked on this video because in my situation it was true,... I don't need them, nor does my A frame vacation house, or my slope roof shop don't need them.
It's a hot roof. Shingles just don't last as long is the only down side. But metal wouldn't matter
More holes in the roof the more possibilities of leaks
My home has ridge vents and mini-gable vents. There are also soffits, but most are blocked which will require a contractor to remove the blocking material.
My first house was built in the late 1920’s. No vents at all, never had a problem.
We just built a new home in SW Florida and now the building code has no exit ventilation, only soffit ventilation. All the new homes are built this way. Doesn’t seem to make sense to me.
Our gable is vented but still extremely hot in the attic space so making the upstairs hotter than it should be & thought of installing 2 solar powered vents to pull hot air out. Do u think this would be a good option in the fall because it's too hot now even here in NH? Thanks for the video.
In Alberta Canada in a rural area with very little trees. Those ridge vents can let snow in when the wind is howling at the right direction. Great otherwise
Thanks for the info on Corning's web site! I had my roof done two years ago with their biggest flowing ridge vent sections. I need to address the intake square footage now.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Gabel vent for the win
I’ve never seen older homes with the type of ventilation you are talking about most homes in my area used to date back to post civil war era 1870’s-1920’s most have attic space or in my case a flat roof and crawl space. My brick construction home not wooden frame and brick siding but triple brick foundations and double brick walls have only a few bricks removed from the edges of the crawl space near the roof in a triangular pattern to allow air to flow into and out of the roof.
Why do new houses need such enormous amounts of ventilation?
Why do newer homes not use Joe Lstiburek building science recommended building practices for attic installation?
I’m an HVAC tech in Iowa mine is installed and have had no issues
I like Whirly bird vents for my roofs.
I don't like the ridge vent or box vents roofers seem to go with now. I got estimates and they all cut out for the ridge vent. I have the gable vents with very well vented soffits. This along with a gable fan and thermostat, my simple 3 tab shingles lasted 30 years in NY. I will now have to block up my gables for the new ridge vent. By design my gables vent out a lot more air than a ridge vent. Sad to see an awesome system replaced with something inferior. It's like the new gas cans replacing the old. Changing something that works extremely well as it is.
Are there no roofers in your area willing to work with the existing roofing ventilation system you have ?
I blocked the Gable vents on my father’s home, switched to a baffled ONLY NOT filtered ridge vent, his attic temps dropped dramatically. We only use Lomanco because all the others seem to use furnace filters, guess what furnace filters do,,,they CLOG..! I dropped the attic ladder, and especially with a slight breeze, activating the baffles, it felt like a fan kicking on at that opening. He was especially impressed because we went from a light green roof to a Black roof. And still dropped temps dramatically!!!
Our house didn’t come with back soffits, and in order to get them, the entire roof pitch including trusses would have to be redone. Some of us have to live with what we have.
@@DawnRK3204 There are deck air options, but what I usually do is use LOMANCO vented drip edge. It is a solid option that some people are skeptical of. They are afraid that you are drawing in moist gutter air. When there is moisture down there, typically it is cool, because it is raining, or just rained. There is very little air exchange at these times. If the sun comes out and heats up the attic, the gutter should be empty already.
Have to disagree with you there.
Stack vents are the best. But that’s for me in Canada snow covers those little plastic box ones.
But anything at the peak of the roof is much better than gable vents.
I block gable vents and install box vents. Sometimes ridge vents but rarely. I see they are better for more even distribution, but they are a pain to install in comparison and get covered by snow unless a steep roof.
Stack vents stand above the snow, and have a higher output capacity. They take the win.
Except for one circumstance where it’s an old cathedral ceiling with rafters instead of trusses (each bay needs dedicated venting) and it’s low slope so standard ridge vents will be buried, have to go ‘maximum cathedral vent’.
Metal ridge vent chase that runs to stack vent(s) mounted on top. Insulated to prevent condensation. Vents every bay separately as a ridge vent would, but air leaves from higher up, above snow and just higher pulling power being higher above peak.
Extremely educational. Thx.
Ridge vents destroyed my home, had to go back to the box vents. Any wind driven rain caused leaks and the exhaust air flow was miniscule in comparison. My wife's rental house had the exact same issues when switching to ridge vents.
I’ve had good success with ridge vents. Not sure why they would be more susceptible to wind driven rain than a box - unless the wind is so strong that it’s blowing water up the shingles. Perhaps a bad install?
@Pseudify they aren't this guy either has a shallow roof angle or they were installed wrong. My money is on the latter.
@@Pseudify Yes the prevailing winds during storms drove water up the shingles to the ridge. The box vents on the other side never had that issue.
As a note, there was a type of ridge vent I had. It was essentially like corrugated cardboard, only made of plastic. What happened was the spacer/airway (corrugated plastic) wicked water by capillary action, and that dripped and ran water. It messed up the roof sheathing and a ceiling. The ridge vent spacer was replaced by a more substantial spacer, and that has been OK. The roofer said the previous stuff is no longer sold.
@louf7178 That sounds like a manufacturer defect. The holes are supposed to be too large for capillary action.
My house is a bungalow I have cans but added a fan and a window vent on the other gable end.
Good information and educational
My house is 150 years old. It only has gable end vents, and they aren't that big. The last time I shingled it, the original boards and studs were in very good condition. It must be due to the fact I live in the Northeast. I don't know. I was also told once that putting too much insulation in these old homes creates too cold a cavity in the winter, causing more condensation to form into ice. When there was more heat loss, this heat aided in moving out the condensation. I don't know. All I can say is that my house has endured the test of time.
I have an uninsulated detached garage with open soffits that leaks like a sieve. My Village required the contractor that replaced the roof to install 3 vents. :-C
I agree. Oh and what about the turbine vents I’m curious do you prefer them too
Good solid information.
great info, thank you!!!
I have a 40 x60 with no overhang I would like to put a ceiling and heat in it what is your best advice for ventilation? Thank you!
i have a well insulated home .i had ridge vents .i installed whirly birds havent turned the air conditioner since . everything was properly installed but had heat build up till the whirly birds . so i dont know why the heat didnt exscape well enough . i have proper soffet venting . jusy dont know now .
Even tho many houses will have soffit vets. 90% of those soffit vents are either plugged with dirt/spider webs, insulation blocking the opening, etc. Creating a hot box effect. And if there is enough insulation besides the minimum. How many home owners go that far to even look or care? Having gable vents I believe is better for cross air winds to help the house breath.
My roofer (gaf certified)pointed out whoever did my soffit only put vented panels on one side of the house. So now i need to remove gutters, facia and install vented soffit on 3 sides (hip roof)so i get proper venting also recommended getting rid of the power vent and used those box vents but had to add a few. Old roof had a power vent and about 4 box vents.
Yeah, I’ve been told to remove power vents in favor of ridge or box. But I also get the sneaky suspicion that some of this is unjustified and simply a way for roofers to sound like they know what they’re talking about.
Correct me if I am wrong but it’s either big gable vents or soffit vents and top vents for exhaust.
I noticed a new trend where the ridge vent was extended partially down a hip roof joint. I don't think I see this as bad, but I am wary of ridge vent perpendicular to predominant winds; and this will give that (most likely).
Is venting stilling needed if I want to 'condition' my attic space so as to make for better and pest free storage space and the HVAC does not have to work as hard. Or is my understanding anyway.
My question/comment is in reference to current building science and the latest building codes. I have recently built my own off grid house and am currently building an off grid cottage. Both structures have 6 and 4 inches respectively of XPS rigid insulation on the roof deck under 2x4 battens and the steel roofing. The area under the roof is conditioned space. My house has been through 2 full winters in the mountains of CO climate zone 7 I believe. I have 0 roof vents and have experienced no condensation or moisture problems that I'm aware of. How do you or anyone else with roofing experience feel about my choices? Oh, it's a 1300sqft 2 story house off grid with solar power for electric heat and a propane backup rinnai wall heater. I'm also using a whole house HRV.
@At Your Service Roofing ... Your video is accurate. Of course, too many just cannot seem to wrap their head around facts. EDIT That's why they _need_ people like you! :-)
Excellent explanation of the combo vents and the issues. I am thinking of using closed cell foam insulation under my roof deck and obviously having no venting at all and completely condition the space. Would you have an opinion on this?
Might bake the roof shingles.
I am no expert but spray foam is not like other traditional insulation methods. Usually, there would be an air gap right under your roof sheets by using baffles and then r30 (Southern California region) insulation. The air gap will allow airflow to cool the roof in summer heat. With foam there may not be an air gap.
Has anyone done an actual test of roof ventilation? Put temperature and air movement sensors in an attic and seen how various ventilation systems work over several days? It would be trivial. Yet all I hear is a dozen "rules of thumb" and all I see are simplistic websites with calculators. It's a function of the shape of the roof, what ventilation is where on that roof, orientation of the home and outdoor weather conditions. The color of the roof and what material it's made out of are also factors. Roof shapes vary wildly with pitch, gables, etc., especially on larger homes. I'm sure there are mechanical engineering software packages that can model a specific roof, its environment and predict airflow and temperature. I put a temperature sensor in my attic and when my roof fan turns on, I see the temperature drop 20 degrees. Has anyone else put sensor(s) in your (an) attic? Before I buy a new roof, I will put three sensors up there and if it looks good over several days of varying weather conditions, insist on the same ventilation system I have. Or insist on corrections based on the data. I don't think this is too much to ask for a $15,000 roof.
Attic ventilation is not an exact science, as long as there are some vents it's good enough. A 1000 cfm attic fan says it needs 480 sq inches of net free air yet when the fan is off and works as a passive vent it can put out 144 sq inches of net air so why would a 15 inch fan need more than it could put out which would be about 144 sq inches? And if you have 480 sq inches of soffit intake how do you get balanced ventilation since the fan 95% of the time is off and works as a passive 144 sq inch exhaust?
Decades of installations is not enough for you?
Code/s are not enough for you?
What you suggest has been done, and no, it's not trivial.
To skip ahead, in short, you don't know anything about this.
Simply, it's usually a 1/150 or 1/300 system, balanced, as he clearly states in the video, by square inch.
@@Jeffs60 "as long as there are some vents it's good enough" ... Wrong. Not having a proper system can destroy... everything. To answer your questions, research/learn. You can start by learning fans don't put out "sq inches of net air", and neither do intake nor exhaust vents. Square inches refer to the actual intake and exhaust space/area. Air moving in/out of vents/fans is the CFM, cubic feet per minute.
The critical thing for ventilation is air intake and air exhaust. If you only have exhaust air will stagnate and not move throughout your roof system. The engineers and experts state that you need equal to or greater than net free area of air intake to feed the exhaust or it will not naturally self convict, but will stagnate within your roof system.😅
How do you know if you have enough intake draw?
I like the plastic soffits with the groves and slot vents. They need to be installed well so bees don't find their way in, and, as usual, insulation can't block rafter space.
I know i need to increase the venting in my garage attic, it's about 1300 sq.ft. would it be easier/better to install a thermostat controlled gable vent fan to blow the hot air out?
My experience with a power vent system is this. First, they are a bit faulty. You don't know they are not working until you inspect them. In 30 years mine went out twice. And because of the amount of air they move they tend to draw air from other areas (unless your roof venting is set up totally correctly for the application) thus decreasing the effectiveness that proper attic ventilation would provide. Which ever way you vent you need the whole system to match it properly.
well explained ,thank you
You are welcome! Thank you!💪
I'm not sure I agree. You seem to want me to believe that by having gable end vents in addition to box vents (turtle vents where I come from), the laws of physics get suspended and hot air no longer rises from below the g.e. vents. Think about it. Other than power attic vents, the most efficient vents are turbine vents. Continuous ridge vents next and then box vents. The last two are more prone to getting covered with snow (obviously) and losing effectiveness, hence why g.e. vents aren't affected by two feet or more of snow on the roof and still ventilate the attic space.
If you've ever smoked a cigarette in an attic, you would find quite a bit of air goes up through the box/turtle vent, whereas very little air moves through a continuous ridge vent.
you mentioned the slit roof which i have but you never said or showed where you get inflow air houses her have vented soffits by code
An air conditioning manufacturer told me by adding a power roof fan is like adding 1/2 ton to your air conditioner system. You're not waiting for the heat to rise but it is being removed.
The heat migrating to your living space is reduced. I bought a Govee Bluetooth Hygrometer Thermometer, Wireless Thermometer, Mini Humidity Sensor with Notification Alert.
It gives me temp and humidity and as of this writing my attic is 7:16 am, temp 61.5 and humidity is 52.7%. My neighbor had problem with her AC never reaching temp and installed a PRF and temp was reached.
So your fan vents through the roof or gable end?
@@maddierosemusic Up through the roof, 2 foot down from the peak.
My fan was between 900 -1000 CFM.
Stay away from the large fans, looking for a nice draw not hurricane winds.
The ridge vent is a terrible idea
i dont agree that 'over-ventilating' is a problem. you're saying cool air entering through the gable vent will prevent soffit vent intake and essentially short circuit the ventilation system. however, the cool air from the gable vents will not flow directly upwards to the box vents or ridge vent. instead, because cooler air is more dense it will fall to attic floor to displace the air exiting near the roof peak. the air near the box vents or ridge vent will always be the hottest air in the attic. nice thing about gable vents is it's quick and easy and inexpensive to get a lot of ventilation square footage out of them, and they offer little resistance to air flow. and these ones are already in place
so maybe the homeowner wants to replace the box vents with ridge vents to expand the roof exhaust. but there is no good reason to defeat the existing gable vents and good reason not to
Plz selling ridge vents? old day whirly birds / wind turbines are the best!
Why a thick piece of insulation over the side vents? You just need to plug it.
What about a cement tile roof?
Roof ventilation is essential, just choose the right one for your environment (south hot or north cold)
Some roofs don't have any ventilation.
I would never have a ridge vent.
They weaken the peak of the roof, are prone to damage, prone to shrinkage which makes them leak, and they block the peak of the roof from walking and materials during maintenance. They slightly improve ventilation but create numerous other problems.
Sounds logical
And a ridge vent is more proper than box vents? Seems it is an alternative.
So unusual to see clean arms 👍👍👍
I skip videos when I see tattooed skin.
Good info. thx
You bet!
I had Spray Foam under my roof and they closed off all roof vents except the outer edge.
Great info for sure, great video as well. Just wondering, here in snow country, we at times have feet of snow on our ridge vents. Do they just not work for the months of that? Is that why we also have a gable vent?
If there is snow covering your roof the attic will not be getting above 40 degrees, i.e. it will not be overheating.
@@rschneid1996 I get that over heating is not an issue, per se'. But in the north, we get Ice dambing that can do tragic damage to roof edging and several feet up from soffets. One way to combat that is air circulation.
@@rschneid1996 When the roof gets to any temp over 32 degrees , the resulting melt water refreezes, at or above the eves. The question was, does a ridge vent breath when covered for months mid winter.
@@70ixlr86 Do you know if the "Ice and Water Shield" membrane actually helps in this instance, or is it just marketing? It's code in many areas and I can't think it works very well.
How about power exhaust vents?
I put mine in, in South Carolina. My electric bill plummeted and more than paid for the materials with the very next bill.
Depends on the environment. A vented attic/roof is a terrible idea in a place like Florida.
You left out your reason.
Ridge vents make a lot more sense than those steel hole vents and look way better.
You're assuming everyone has soffit vents. I do not.
It applies to those who do, and it's a major population.
I have to disagree: After year of a passive "ridge vent" and soffit vents, we later getting the roof replace with no ridge vent but installing a powered fan while retaining the soffit vents. Now the attic is basically outside temp all the time. If it's 95* in July, the attic is 95*, not 120*+ because we're waiting on heat to rise. Powered fans for the win!
1/150 seems like too general of a rule. I would think that you want more ventilation in Florida than Wisconsin!
I can't count the times I've had to argue with people about mixing soffit-ridge ventilation with gable vents. Not only do gable vents reduce the flow from the soffits they also cause a cross wind effect. That disrupts the up-flow which is already reduced. Very bad practice.
Many ways to vent a roof.
Ridge vents are bad because they have a filter that clogs with dirt and snow. They also need to be installed perfectly. Those box vents are not installed properly. If you mount them on both sides of the roof they draw from each other and not the soffit. Those calculators are also not great. Some rooflines are not boxes so you need to accommodate for all attic spaces.
heat always rises..... so i say hmmmm to your explanation of "possible issues" ....
Nonsense. Without these lil’ puppies I wouldn’t have gotten two different roof leaks that were the very definition of fun to fix!
Path of least resistance
IMO, ridge vents are worthless. Far too little air flow.
As to your contention that the gable vent will become an intake and the hot air at the lower portions of the attic will not vent, that does not follow physics. The hot air will rise and draw from the soffit vents.
Isnt it better to have it & not need it RATHER than to need it and not have it?
!
For people looking to keep their house cool. Plant some trees that will provide plenty of shade around your house and if you already have large trees, leave them.
First Understand this video is an advertisement for Owens Corning products.
Air exchange is the objective, gable vents will work just fine if soffit vents aren’t in place. Don’t over think it
All they are good for is roof leaks!!
I hope you are fit and fine. I’m a Subscriber of your channel.I want to inform you about some details of your youtube channel. I saw you have around (464 )subscribers and (37 )videos at the Roofing service related niche. Your content and thumbnail qualities are pretty good.
They only ventilation my house has is the ventilation whole things that are on each end of the house that’s it nothing on the roof
Gable vents.
Something is bad wrong with the calculations. Every time one of my customers gets a new roof, they remove the roof vents and or power vents and install a ridge vent. Now in the summertime the attic is 30° hotter than it was. Stop doing this, you are wrong! Your customer paid a lot of money to put that power ventilator on their house, leave it the hell alone! YOU ARE WRONG - STOP DOING THIS!!! You are getting your information from the manufacturer of the ridge vents.
Took out my roof box vents years ago and put in a ridge vent best thing I ever did don’t know what your logic is
@@fields297 I'm an air conditioner technician I work in Georgia attics all year round. Every time one of my clients gets a new roof I deal with a 10 to 15 degree hotter attic and it's making my job much more miserable. I'm sorry but I'm not finding any of these houses that are making it better. On a hot sunny still Georgia day a home with just a ridge vent, the air just stops and there is no convection at that point I have read temperatures as high as 130° and I did not stay long. Roofing companies need to leave power ventilators alone most homeowners don't even know you are removing them they paid a lot of money for them they serve a purpose!!!
Attic breeze will pay for itself and will put money in your pocket for years after.
👍👍
Our house has two "gable vents" in the front, so I thought that would be a perfect place for a large fan to force additional attic ventilation on hot days. WRONG!!! The gable vents are fake; strictly decorative. Rather than breach the WRB and run the risk of water intrusion, I left everything as is with the box and soffit vents.
get a roof fan all vents suck dead air got to get it moving or a whrily vent they work been roofing over c35 years
I had a power vent in my house complete with the temp control and all but the roofer said GAF will not warranty my roof if i had one. Only way to satisfy their 50 year warranty was box vents
I installed it in my detached garage roof. Sucks out all the heat, paint fumes, exhaust fumes etc. for
There are so many variables that the Owens Corning calculator doesnt take into account.
1. They type of soffit and the amount of air pushed by it.
2. Sectioned off or separated parts off the attic.
3. Cathedral and vaulted ceilings.
All that being said (and thats just 3 examples) the calculation of attic space is EASILY AND COMMONLY miscalculated. A single cathedral ceiling can put you off by hundreds of square feet from the start. Attics are commonly sectioned off and separated into smaller individual areas. There is a drastic difference in the types of soffit and the amount of air restriction. So, in summary, the Owens Corning calculator only works only if you're looking at all the variables (which 99% of contractors DO NOT) If the upstairs of your home is excessively hot, it could be an lack of insulation NOT VENTILATION. Hat vents have been outdated for over a decade....just run ridge vent and you will be fine for ventilation as far as the roof is concerned.
I live in the desert...... worked in hundreds of attics......... on a summer day attic with out vents 120 degrees
attic with vents 119 degrees........ the inside of house is not affected
,,,,,,,,
These vents don't do anything but make your attic hotter 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Trying to sell services
And if this man doesn't make good sense to you, you are not very bright.