Great Job Stratton! I’ve been doing music professionally for 30 years. I wish That as a young man I would have worked on my dedication to the craft like you are now. I was too busy playing rock star in my teens and young 20’s to excel at songcraft. Keep it up and it won’t take 30+ years for you. You have the tools and the talent. I can’t wait to hear your original works!
This has been a great video series. It really goes over the specifics. It makes me think getting a steel on a seized engine isn't such a scary concept after all. There will be a cost in parts, but the work can certainly be done, and the engine is basically new!
Beautiful job, great videos, I really enjoyed all 3 and learned a good bit. I didn't like the idea of running the finger on top the gasket maker. I prefer to let the housing flatten it. I just MAKE SURE that there is a decent bead. To each his own I guess. If it works for you, keep doing it.
Nice vid, but the oil pump is THE most reliable part of that motor. If the lines are clamped properly, they are flawless. I have 2- GP1200r's, a GP 1300 r, an XLT 1200 . I'm looking to build another GP1200r and it will also have an oil pump. Yamaha's oil delivery system gets a bad rap because of the faulty hose clamp. Those reed cages look like GP1300r cages, I hear they perform better
Hey @chewie pac, I have used oven cleaner before and found that it works really well also. Alaska is a beautiful place, I have always wanted to go there!!
Interesting that you didn't seal around the crank seal or use a jointing compound between the crankcase halves, given there was (and should be) jointing compound evident when you pulled them apart. Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, etc all use a threcebond products for 'bare' casing sealing. Locktite Master Gasket is also a good one (which looks like what had been used previously - red stuff). Also, if you are going to such lengths to strip and rebuild an engine,, why wouldn't you replace the crank seals. As has been said, the seals are there to prevent air ingestion into the bottom end and protect from a lean condition.
Nice video Michael, thanks. Can you confirm please, did you replace the crankshaft seals? Looks from the vid that you just cleaned the old crank assembly and slotted it back in with existing seals? Thanks
I have a question why did you not replace the crank seals while you had the chance. If they fail you will have a lean condition on cylinder 1 and 3 all depends on which seal fails
Thanks for the information, I just watched number 3 so I got 1 n 2 to go, I have a gp1200r a 99 I think that needs a full build after a power valve munched the piston and then was left full of water (not by me) can u tell me where u got things from and work done I'm in Ballarat Victoria. Thanks Michael
Hi Michael, I ended up buying all of my parts from Performance Jet Ski in Derimut. Zac is super helpful and really knows his stuff. If you are looking for someone to do the rebuild, they also carry out mechanical work and maintenance. Ebay and Marketplace can also be good for parts or spares, but just be careful to make sure your not buying someone else’s problem.
Hey great videos...thank you so much. Im trying to buy the rebuild kit and it is asking me if standard or 0.5mm oversize. I was wondering if you could help me on how to choose between these two options.
This is quite a late reply but, the difference is simple. A standard piston is what came with your ski , from factory, an oversize is done when you have to have cylinders machined in order to reuse them. All this means is that if your cylinders look fine and don’t have deep scars and are smooth when you run a finger along it. Go with standard pistons and reuse the same cylinder(s). If the cylinder isn’t smooth you would have to get the cylinders machined. Please don’t take the cylinder to a local shop. Instead use a site like SBT and have them machine and send you matching pistons with it. I went the local shop route 1 time and they didn’t tamper the cylinder which caused my piston rings to catch and pistons to shatter about 3 hours off of a fresh rebuild. Since machining gets rid of a .5mm layer (in this example) you would then need to get an oversized piston and you go from a standard bore to a .5mm oversize.
Well done - hopefully no issues on Port Phillip Bay! (also from Melbourne) I watched all 3 videos while doing other stuff so apologies if i missed it, but did you manage to addresses the pitting in the crank casing where the blown piston was? If so, how?
After watching a second time at the 34 minute mark, it looks like the damage wasn’t addressed. I am curious if that is going to be a future failure point. I really enjoyed the videos. Keep posting future projects.
Hi Tony & John, Firstly, thank you for taking the time to watch the videos and also commenting. In regards to the pitting in the lower half of the crank case, when I watched the video back it does look worse than what it actually is. When I had it apart I took it to a friend who builds race engines and his opinion was also not to be too fussed about it. It wasn’t going to cause any snaring or be at risk of catching. I could have sent it to be linished to make it 1000% smooth but I decided not to. I hope to put another 20hrs on the ski this season, at which time I will do an update video also - possibly just a montage of each time I use it. I was also maybe thinking about some sort of enduro ride to really test it. Again thanks for watching guys, I really appreciate it.
Certainly not enough to worry about or measure. Also if you are applying a constant pull on the torque wrench it won’t matter anyway. Even if there’s the slightly bit of twist in the extension you’ll pull past it. Hence why torque sticks only work properly will air impact guns.
@@kristoffscuba5466 Yes, the extension will twist, but it will still transmit 100% of the applied torque. Where else would it go? Torque Sticks suck. I've had to use a 4 foot long cheater pipe to remove lug nuts from my car after a shop used those stupid things!
Hi Micheal, I too live in sunny Melbourne and rebuilding a 2002 1200. Could you please tell me where to buy the same complete reed valve assembies you showd on your video? Cheers Tim.
@@1MichaelJones Hey thanks for the fast reply. any more detail on that like the brand or PN#. I'm assuming it was an after market set? I only ask because thats what Performance Jet Ski will ask when I ring them. Cheers
@@1MichaelJones Yep then thats the same deal I got too. The new ones seem to be better engineered than the originals. I am currently up to setting the pop off seat pressure in the carbies however I am wondering how the hell am I going to ballance the carbies up, How do you know if they are all getting the right amount of fuel when its running? Im using premix btw.
Hi Boss Ok, This engine is a 2-stroke, so it is lubricated via oil being pre-mixed in with the fuel. Manufacturers recommend different mix ratios for different engines. This ski is recommended to be run between 32:1-40:1 During the engine breaking I am running it at 40:1 for some added lubricity. You can purchase 2-stroke oil from most auto spare or fuel stations. At 40:1 the 73L tank needs 1.825L of oil mixed into it. There are a lot of good apps for phones that will calculate this for you also.
@@1MichaelJones yeh i was wondering how the drive part came off ? is it screwed on? The workshop manual only said that I needed Loctite on it so I assumed it was screwed on? i’m doing a rebuild on my engine and I’m confident now I’ve watched you doing your one awesome videos by the way .
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA Finals D1 | Fall | ยิงต้องโหด ให้เหมือนโกรธกันมาก่อน](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OnTdfGySmds/mqdefault.jpg)
Just watch all the rebuild videos on the Wave Runner Thank You for being so Thorough 👍🏻
Great Job Stratton! I’ve been doing music professionally for 30 years. I wish That as a young man I would have worked on my dedication to the craft like you are now. I was too busy playing rock star in my teens and young 20’s to excel at songcraft. Keep it up and it won’t take 30+ years for you. You have the tools and the talent. I can’t wait to hear your original works!
This has been a great video series. It really goes over the specifics. It makes me think getting a steel on a seized engine isn't such a scary concept after all. There will be a cost in parts, but the work can certainly be done, and the engine is basically new!
Purchased an extra loud compressor because that is what life is about. Thanks for the reminder.
Fantastic to watch thanks for putting in the time and effort
Great video! I just bought a pair of 1200 xl's as a project. I'm sure I will be using this video as a reference. Found you through JetSki bros.
Thanks Bwell, I thinks it’s great what JS Bros are doing! They are a fantastic channel!
I have a question? Did you not seal the two cases back together? Or is it not needed?
Beautiful job, great videos, I really enjoyed all 3 and learned a good bit. I didn't like the idea of running the finger on top the gasket maker. I prefer to let the housing flatten it. I just MAKE SURE that there is a decent bead. To each his own I guess. If it works for you, keep doing it.
Nice work 👍
Awesome video, very informative.
Thanks Shannon!
Awesome job!!! That thing fired right up! Looking forward to see it in the water.
Thanks AngeloSki, the video is coming soon!
Great set of videos
Why didn't you replace the seals? No sealant between the two cases?
Wow great 😊 job such out of your way with this video 😅 all for us about time someone like you uploaded a video that’s worth thousand words
Thank you for your kinds words Valter
Awesome dude
Great series! Thanks for doing this!
Nice vid, but the oil pump is THE most reliable part of that motor. If the lines are clamped properly, they are flawless. I have 2- GP1200r's, a GP 1300 r, an XLT 1200 . I'm looking to build another GP1200r and it will also have an oil pump. Yamaha's oil delivery system gets a bad rap because of the faulty hose clamp. Those reed cages look like GP1300r cages, I hear they perform better
Your video is very informative you didn’t show the pins on the case you have to line up on crank bearings
I use easy off oven cleaner, and paint it on the seal surface for removing old case sealant
Btw hello from Alaska.
Hey @chewie pac, I have used oven cleaner before and found that it works really well also.
Alaska is a beautiful place, I have always wanted to go there!!
Forgot to put sealer in the recesses for the crank seals. That’s usually why crank seals blow out and engine gets a lean condition failure.
Doggie got a lil surprise haha!
Sorry music's to loud for me...may jazz it up for some?
Interesting that you didn't seal around the crank seal or use a jointing compound between the crankcase halves, given there was (and should be) jointing compound evident when you pulled them apart. Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, etc all use a threcebond products for 'bare' casing sealing. Locktite Master Gasket is also a good one (which looks like what had been used previously - red stuff). Also, if you are going to such lengths to strip and rebuild an engine,, why wouldn't you replace the crank seals. As has been said, the seals are there to prevent air ingestion into the bottom end and protect from a lean condition.
Acetone can clean / remove sticky an old gasket surface
Nice video Michael, thanks. Can you confirm please, did you replace the crankshaft seals? Looks from the vid that you just cleaned the old crank assembly and slotted it back in with existing seals? Thanks
I have a question why did you not replace the crank seals while you had the chance. If they fail you will have a lean condition on cylinder 1 and 3 all depends on which seal fails
نشكركم علا الشرح
What happened or not to the pot bottom gaskets?
Thanks for making this video. Just a couple questions.....Pressure test? How come you didn't replace the crank seals?
Didn't hear you mention a top and bottom for the rings.
I think it's cheaper just to get a rebuilt .
Thanks for the information, I just watched number 3 so I got 1 n 2 to go, I have a gp1200r a 99 I think that needs a full build after a power valve munched the piston and then was left full of water (not by me) can u tell me where u got things from and work done I'm in Ballarat Victoria.
Thanks Michael
Hi Michael,
I ended up buying all of my parts from Performance Jet Ski in Derimut.
Zac is super helpful and really knows his stuff. If you are looking for someone to do the rebuild, they also carry out mechanical work and maintenance.
Ebay and Marketplace can also be good for parts or spares, but just be careful to make sure your not buying someone else’s problem.
Do you have a rebuild video for the carbs?
Hey great videos...thank you so much. Im trying to buy the rebuild kit and it is asking me if standard or 0.5mm oversize. I was wondering if you could help me on how to choose between these two options.
This is quite a late reply but, the difference is simple.
A standard piston is what came with your ski , from factory, an oversize is done when you have to have cylinders machined in order to reuse them.
All this means is that if your cylinders look fine and don’t have deep scars and are smooth when you run a finger along it. Go with standard pistons and reuse the same cylinder(s).
If the cylinder isn’t smooth you would have to get the cylinders machined. Please don’t take the cylinder to a local shop. Instead use a site like SBT and have them machine and send you matching pistons with it.
I went the local shop route 1 time and they didn’t tamper the cylinder which caused my piston rings to catch and pistons to shatter about 3 hours off of a fresh rebuild.
Since machining gets rid of a .5mm layer (in this example) you would then need to get an oversized piston and you go from a standard bore to a .5mm oversize.
Why don't you use any head gasket Cooper sealant????
Really appreciate the videos and the detail, all out Champion, do you still have the oil pump and can I buy it from you? Cheers
Hi Jason, thanks for your nice words! For sure you can buy it from me.
@@1MichaelJones how do I contact you?
Main bearing centering pins didn't look like they wear in the right spots
Well done - hopefully no issues on Port Phillip Bay! (also from Melbourne)
I watched all 3 videos while doing other stuff so apologies if i missed it, but did you manage to addresses the pitting in the crank casing where the blown piston was? If so, how?
After watching a second time at the 34 minute mark, it looks like the damage wasn’t addressed. I am curious if that is going to be a future failure point. I really enjoyed the videos. Keep posting future projects.
Hi Tony & John,
Firstly, thank you for taking the time to watch the videos and also commenting.
In regards to the pitting in the lower half of the crank case, when I watched the video back it does look worse than what it actually is. When I had it apart I took it to a friend who builds race engines and his opinion was also not to be too fussed about it. It wasn’t going to cause any snaring or be at risk of catching. I could have sent it to be linished to make it 1000% smooth but I decided not to.
I hope to put another 20hrs on the ski this season, at which time I will do an update video also - possibly just a montage of each time I use it. I was also maybe thinking about some sort of enduro ride to really test it.
Again thanks for watching guys, I really appreciate it.
Nice video, did you delete the autolub AND change to premix?
Hi Pablo, yes I did.
I wanted to ensure the cylinders were always getting oil.
Nice! Iam getting one. I Will remove ir Also. Thans
what was the total cost to do this rebuild
Can anyone tell me the model of this bike?
Yamaha Wave Runner 1200
This is nice, but how about replacing the rods, bearings on the crank and rods?
Extension of that length does not loose a single nm of torque. Stop believe in that bs
Certainly not enough to worry about or measure. Also if you are applying a constant pull on the torque wrench it won’t matter anyway. Even if there’s the slightly bit of twist in the extension you’ll pull past it. Hence why torque sticks only work properly will air impact guns.
@@kristoffscuba5466 Yes, the extension will twist, but it will still transmit 100% of the applied torque. Where else would it go? Torque Sticks suck. I've had to use a 4 foot long cheater pipe to remove lug nuts from my car after a shop used those stupid things!
Hi Micheal, I too live in sunny Melbourne and rebuilding a 2002 1200.
Could you please tell me where to buy the same complete reed valve assembies you showd on your video? Cheers Tim.
Hey Tim, everything you saw in the video was purchased from Performance Jet Ski in Derrimut
Thanks for watching!
@@1MichaelJones Hey thanks for the fast reply. any more detail on that like the brand or PN#. I'm assuming it was an after market set? I only ask because thats what Performance Jet Ski will ask when I ring them. Cheers
Oh and I see those new cylindars are sleaved ones. Was it a change over for the old ones type of deal?
@@Timbo_tango yes it was, they send the old cylinder to the US to be refinished.
@@1MichaelJones Yep then thats the same deal I got too. The new ones seem to be better engineered than the originals. I am currently up to setting the pop off seat pressure in the carbies however I am wondering how the hell am I going to ballance the carbies up, How do you know if they are all getting the right amount of fuel when its running? Im using premix btw.
Where’d you get your kit?
How much oil does this engine need? Where do we get the engine oil from?
Hi Boss Ok,
This engine is a 2-stroke, so it is lubricated via oil being pre-mixed in with the fuel.
Manufacturers recommend different mix ratios for different engines. This ski is recommended to be run between 32:1-40:1
During the engine breaking I am running it at 40:1 for some added lubricity.
You can purchase 2-stroke oil from most auto spare or fuel stations.
At 40:1 the 73L tank needs 1.825L of oil mixed into it. There are a lot of good apps for phones that will calculate this for you also.
@@1MichaelJones
.
.
how did you oh get the crank seals on?
We’re you asking how I got them on?
@@1MichaelJones yeh i was wondering how the drive part came off ? is it screwed on? The workshop manual only said that I needed Loctite on it so I assumed it was screwed on? i’m doing a rebuild on my engine and I’m confident now I’ve watched you doing your one awesome videos by the way .
@@phimister78 It is screwed on, reverse thread though, so loosey = tighty.
what kind of gasket maker? is it high temp? is it copper? can yamabond work on crankcase sealer
Théâtre
كيف يتم صيانة الكلبيترات