Hands down the best video on this I've come across. Should be the first result, maybe due to it's age but thankfully I found it. The only thing I'd add is if like me, your longest Allan key isn't long enough to reach the awkward egr bolt, take off the butterfly flap housing with the 3 T30 bolts on it. Shortened the distance by about 30 mm and a bit more visibility too
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make this. As said previously, the 520d is almost identical apart from having lots more room and not needing to remove the fan or slam panel.
Great guide, helped me a lot with my 520d. Pretty much identical except the 4 cylinder leave far more room to work and so no need to remove radiator and slam panel
+Nathan and Sonya Cartwright ...... hi thanks for the feedback, i wanted to do mine but only saw the normal you tube poor ones so wanted to make something a little better .... be careful when removing the EGR pipe like i did at 4.40 into the video as my hose actually ended up being split on its rear and i had a few weeks of head scratching after to figure out what was causing my excessive smoke (it was over-fueling due to the lost air) and performance drop. Glad to have helped some one !!!!
Great guide. I changed both thermostats on my 2007 535d when I bought the car two years ago but made life difficult for my self by not removing half of what you did so I'll employ your method this time. My coolant temp is low again at around 70 degrees so I will be changing both (40k miles since the last ones were done) but I will also clean my ear because it must be well bunged up. Thanks.
Really REALLY helpful video - thanks very much for your time & effort doing this. Made it all a fairly quick & painless job to replace them instead of undoing half the engine bay then forgetting where half the bits went! :D
Very useful thank you, just started replacing both thermostats on my e92 335d, a few minor differences between the two installations but overall a very helpful video
Hi Julian, glad it helped. As far as I can gather the 2.0 lump is very similar in a lot of aspects to the 3.0 unit. Great to share your feedback and hopefully someone with a 2.0 may see also and with your feedback and the video, help them also. Cheers Dave
@@paulc1976 when i did it i watched a few (all crap) so i thought i would do a proper one which someone could sit down and make a brew and watch the night before and refer to later step by step - glad you like it !
I keep meaning to make videos like this, but I get in the groove, and next thing the jobs done😄, I started making one of my daughters Polo when I did the sills… went for a brew and forgot to continue recording 😯
Thanks bro. Helped a lot. Just want to ask how do you bleed the system afterwards. I poured the needed antifreeze started the car and drove it until it reached 90 degrees. Then I tried to bleed the system from thr tap on the egr thermostat but no bubbles came out, just antifreeze, so I closed it immediately. Next day just poured more coolant until it reached between between min and max. I am not sure if I did it the right way. And before opening the tap moved the cabin temp to max.
Great video with clear and very thorough instructions. I’m going to be doing this on my E61 535d when the parts arrive. From the comments, I see there is one bolt on the 535 that is more difficult to access? Also, do I need to drain all the coolant out before? Also, I couldn’t see a procedure to bleed the system after….is this necessary? Thanks and again great video!
Hi, i sold the car a few years ago, but from what i can remember! ...... Not sure about the extra bolt, i saw the comment, but have never seen a 535 version sorry, i didn't drain any coolant, i just popped it out and let it drain itself then topped it up ....... i didn't have any bleeding issues at all that i remember. There is a small screw on the EGR thermostat and i think i just bled that a little, but that was about it. Thanks for the comments, glad its helped!
Great video! Only way to improve would be to mention the tools required. I got to the last 2 bolts to remove the EGR cooler only to find I hadn't got the right size Torx drive. Thanks for your effort.
Cracked video thanks v much for taking the time to create this.... Need to replace the stats on my e70 X5 with same engine should be a lot easier now I've seen this 👍
Hi RC fun. I was aware this was/is a common failure so I did the dashboard temp check. My car also was not getting very hot from the heater. As I recall it was only getting to around 70 degrees C. The upper EGR thermostat is relatively easy to change on its own so you may wish to try this first. Once completed and running at a good temperature my car MPG went up to around 34mpg from approx 31-32 average before.
Excellent guide fella, well done. Two questions... 1) What heads do the exhaust clamp bolts have? 2)Can a metric socket be used to remove the spline bolt holding the electrical connector on the EGR valve? Thanks.
Hi. I seem to remember both the items being splined heads so no I don't think a metric socket could be used. I can't check now as sold the car about 3yrs ago!.... Cheers dave
Just having to change the EGR thermostat on my 2001 E39 530D. Have to remove the flexible vacuum hose to get at the rear 10mm bolt on the EGR thermostat. A new flexible vacuum hose costs about the same as the EGR thermostat! Only need to remove the acoustic panels from the top of the engine to change the EGR thermostat, no major dismantling required. Changing the thermostat doesn't involve changing the EGR cooler on an E39 530D.
Thanks for the info @@grahamepigney8565 its odd, but maybe something to do with the year of manufacture / legislation at the time? I guess the auto is newer than the manual ?
Thank you,A very good film.I shall change mine today. Do you know how to adjuse highbeam on a 530 2007 LCI?.It is same lamp to low and high beam,but it is a sort of cup which goes up when highbeam is on.My is to high.Do i have to aduse it on computer? Regards from Ulf
There is a good chance and you may get away with just changing the seal?.....but you should really take it off and inspect it fully as these plastic housings are susceptible to having hair line cracks appear. As I recall the EGR thermostat isn't that expensive. If your going to go to the bother it might be just as well to change it whole?..... NO EBay cheap Chinese ones though!... These need to be genuine, the cheap ones fail quickly. Hope this helps, but you could just try a new seal first yes.
Hello and greetings Sir, I just want to tell you that you are a very fine and professional person and thank you for your video, super HELP I wish you all the best.
Many thanks for your very useful video. Did your thermostat failed indicated from your dash codes and this is why you are replacing them? or is there other reasons? is this part of the service interval?
Hello RC ..... as far as i am aware they are not on any service schedule, just changed on condition. I looked into the secret menu on the dash to get my temperature as the car MPG was a little low (around 30-31) ... Once changed the MPG increased a couple of MPG.
+Planefix1, I know how to access my secret menu too... :-) My 3 series costs around 20p a mile, seems low on mpg! What is the norminal temp? What was your temp that made you want to change that thermostat? How long of a drive or idle to proper warm engine before checking temps?
Great video and thanks for posting. Would you be able to advise what engine type this is please, I might need to do this job on a 2010 635d 6 series with an M57N2 engine and would be really useful to know if they are the same. Thanks in advance for any help.
Hello, I have managed to remove EGR and Throttle Body. Cleaned everything and put together. A reason why I was removing to inspect why Throttle Valve doesn’t move when engine is being switch off and just shake the whole engine. I can move Throttle engine valve by hand. What could be a reason why doesn’t function? Maybe board inside is damaged by oil?
Yan Caron .... Hi. Its not a stupid question, we all have to start and learn sometime ! ..... OK the answer is no you do not need to bleed the system. When you take the pipes off the water will gush out itself. You may need to bleed it afterwards though but i think ive talked about that in the video. Cheers dave
Do these cars have that typical bad diesel smell? Specially at cold start? I just drove one, superb car but the smell is really bad, even though it was the euro 4
@@Planefix1 yes maybe the dpf was removed. But still I don't understand how is possible that many euro 3 e38 and e65 730d don't have any smell but the euro 4 aluminium block engines smell stronger.. maybe swifl flaps removal influences also
Edvin Avdic ... well done ! .... i didnt change my water pump or belts due to them both looking in good condition. Im glad this video helped you save a lot in garage fees !
Hi .... i did personally as its just a small screw .... but to be honest very little air came out and i had no real problems with air locks etc at all, if any. Thanks for watching 😀
Hi there. Thank you for the excellent video. I have seen some quick fix videos for the EGR 'stat change along with written descriptions of the process to do both but seeing your video is super helpful! I will be tacking this shortly on my 2009 E61 525d xDrive. Let's see how much crud I have accumulated in the EGR in the last 125,000km... One thing though. Can you elaborate on the coolant refill procedure? I hear that about 3L of 'red' BMW coolant is needed along with equal parts de-ionised water. It would be helpful to know the procedure to refill and then presumably bleed the system. I would imagine there is a bleed valve somewhere to consider...? Should we do a flush at the same time? If so, do you know how? Many thanks for the help!
Hi Siggy, Thank you for the kind comments. When refilling my coolant i simply topped it up from the reservoir as i didn't actually loose that much (probably less than 1.5 - 2 liters). I may be mistaken but i believe my coolant was green/blue in colour, but that would be insignificant as long as you use the same type as what you have in now (mine is UK spec perhaps its different where you are ?). To bleed the system i literally just cracked the coolant screw right on the top of the EGR thermostat housing. You need a large Phillips or flat head screwdriver and then just crack it open and let some air escape. When i cracked mine i only got a small amount of air out of the system. I then started the car and did the normal sort of stuff such as, run the car at idle until at temperature then checked the fluid level again, then took it out for a long run with the heater on etc then checked again and then monitored it over the next few days - but like i said to be honest i never even had to top it back up at all and its ran fine since. I've personally never used de-ionised water to fill any car coolant system, just normal tap water and antifreeze mix, but if it states de-ionised water you can buy this cheaply from an auto store for a pound or so per litre (its cheap anyway) ........ hope this helps ! ....... cheers David
+Planefix1 Wonderful, thank you. I was under the impression that you would lose more fluid than that, or perhaps you would use the opportunity to change/flush all of the fluid. If it's safe to just carry on with the remaining fluid and top it up then I'll go with that. In the meantime, I did call by local Stealer (Switzerland FYI) and they also use blue, not red. I got the red idea from a forum post somewhere. I think this looks simple enough that I am going to order up the parts an go for it. I am getting 69degrees average with 10degree ambient temp so I believe both of my 'stats are stuck open. Wish me luck!
Hi Siggy Yes 69 degrees is very low, you should see an increase in MPG when done by 1-2 Miles per Gallon (I did) ...... If you follow this video you wont go far wrong as i think i've covered it all pretty much. Just be carefull bending the boost hose pip out the way to remove the radiator fan as this caused my hose to split a few months later (stress i guess from being bent out the way - my car is a 2005). ..... good luck !
+Planefix1 Thanks for the tip on the boost hose. I will be careful with it. I have just been to BMW and picked up the new main thermostat, EGR thermostat, little yellow washer, 1.5L of BMW coolant concentrate and 5L of distilled water from a local shop. The plan is to have a crack at it tomorrow morning so I have just removed the engine cover and hit lots of bolts with some penetrating spray (GT85) to make things easier tomorrow. Wish me luck!! I will be following your video and hope that things go smoothly!
+Planefix1 OK, I have just finished the job. 3 hours in total with a friend's help. Nothing was hard except perhaps access to a few bolts. Thank you so much for this excellent video. I would never have attempted it without watching it a few times. The engine temp has gone from a wildly fluctuating 69 average to a pretty steady 92 degrees. I'd call that 100% fixed! The EGR stat was stuck wide open (I could blow right through like it were a tube!) I actually disconnected the smallest pipe coming out of the main thermostat towards the bottom end of the EGR and used it to drain 2.5L of fluid. In the end I had to top up by about 1L that was lost to the garage floor. I cleaned the EGR whilst I had it off. It wasn't too grubby (125,000km) but it's gleaming now. Thank you thank you thank you! That's 620 Swiss Francs of BMW labour I didn't pay this morning! :)
On the black plate where the EGR valve has been removed there is a raised part with what looks like a 10/12mm hole in it? My 530D has the same. It is just open, nothing is connected to it? Do you know if it is a breather or should it have a plug in, or a pipe connected to it? Thanks
Sorry I have no idea as I sold the car around 5 years ago now! .... But I do now have a 330d hitch looks near identical so I'll try and have a look tomorrow!
Hi mine is 520d 177Ps , I deleted the EGR. And there is no smoke at all and the mpg is still getting nearly 60 mpg if I stick on 70mph. Mixed around 45 mpg. So what's the point of this extra parts there and make things complicated? Could u give me an answer. Thanks.
The EGR recirculates a small amount of exhaust gasses back into the intake at medium to low revs in order to reduce the cylinder temperature (by putting inert gasses back in thereby making the mixture less flammable). This lower cylinder temperature actually allows a more complete burn of the fuel that is injected thereby reducing the total emissions. In other words, it is complicated, it is prone to faults, it saps power, but it's necessary for the manufacturers to get modern diesel cars through the ever stricter emissions limits.
Hi .... i did personally as its just a small screw .... but to be honest very little air came out and i had no real problems with air locks etc at all, if any. Thanks for watching 😀
Harry Isuf. Hi Harry ... do not buy a cheap one off EBAY or you will be changing it again shortly !. Please trust me and buy a Genuine BMW item it is worth the little extra my friend
I am using this video not to see how to change the thermostat, but to see how to install de fan, nice i broke the 2 clips on the top part of the radiator, because i forced kkkk know i know that is 5 screws.
Hi thanks for the video. Main thermostat on my 525d was replaced by previous owner and while going in to replace crank pulley it appears there is a leak from the thermostat just under where it bolts on. Anyone ever seen this? Wonder if I should just take it off and add some sealant.
philbLeprechaun .... Well I guess you could strip it down and check the pipe connection and or bolts are tight first. To put some sealant on properly you would basically have to do the whole job anyway so I personally would fit a new pump while I did it. Reason is I heard pattern parts fail quick. It may be that the part he fitted was not origional anyway ?. If cash is tight then check the bolts are tight and pipe connections and then take it from there.
Nice one thanks for the clear instructions, I feel a lot more confident tackling this now! P.s doe's the coolant leak everywhere once you remove the main thermostat? Kind Regards
Hi, with my e90 320d automatic, normal working coolant temperature is 88-91c while car is going... when the car stops (working in neutral) temperature reaches 96-97c but not going over... is that normal?
Hello ..... That temperature sounds OK to me, although i dont know the exact 320d temperatures. Have you had a trawl of the internet to look ?. The fact the car temperature peaks a little immediately after a run would i suggest be normal. It should however return to normal after a while. If the thermostats were faulty i think your temperature would a lot lower than @90 deg C. Have you noticed a significant drop in performance or MPG ? lack of heat inside the car ? excess smoke out the back ? ........ if not i would suggest its most likely OK.
+Planefix1 I have changed both of thermostats, and a water pump few weeks ago because on open road coolant temperature was not going over 60c... Few days ago I have noticed that coolant (open road or city driving) have temperature 88-91c, which is normal... but while car is not moving (working in N, or in traffic jams) coolant temp goes to 97c, but not over, and when car starts to move it drops on 90c... So I dont know should car increase coolant temp to 97c while not moving, I dont know is it normal or not... :/
+Planefix1 I havent noticed drop in performance or lower mpg, or the smoke behind, nothing wrong... if I werent looked in hidden manu, I wouldnt know the problem...
if you plan the job and have all the right tools about 40 min needed on a520 you loose all the coolant onto the street unless you want to fool about taking off the undercover
Planefix1 really good job! But theres still one thing i do not unterstand:S How do i bleed the system after replacing the two thermostats? And how many liters of the antifreeze i will need after? Greets from vienna🤝
Edvin Avdic ..... if you move the video to 5.37 time. You will see the EGR thermostat housing has a plastic cross head screw, bleed valve on it. Once all refitted. Start to fill the coolant as normal (dont forget to add antifreeze). Once the expansion tank is full, open this screw and allow the air to escape. Also squeeze the radiator hoses to help expel any trapped air. Start the engine and let the system run amd watet to move around. Open the bleed valve again to expel any more air. Allow the engine to get upto temperature (keep monitoring the water level) makes sure you have the in car heater on full hot. To be honest thats all i did. I didnt even have to top the water up afterwards ! .... Obviously i would check the water daily for the following few days to be safe and carry a couple of litres of watet with you just in case, but i think you will be just fine .... good luck !
Hands down the best video on this I've come across. Should be the first result, maybe due to it's age but thankfully I found it.
The only thing I'd add is if like me, your longest Allan key isn't long enough to reach the awkward egr bolt, take off the butterfly flap housing with the 3 T30 bolts on it. Shortened the distance by about 30 mm and a bit more visibility too
Best made DIY car maintenance video I've seen. Thanks!
Well thank you Adam, much appreciated!
The most detailed one-hand video ever
Thanks man!!!
Glad you liked it!
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make this. As said previously, the 520d is almost identical apart from having lots more room and not needing to remove the fan or slam panel.
Thanks for the 520 info !
Great guide, helped me a lot with my 520d. Pretty much identical except the 4 cylinder leave far more room to work and so no need to remove radiator and slam panel
That was an excellent video. Extremely helpful. Thanks for being bothered to record and share this.
+Nathan and Sonya Cartwright ...... hi thanks for the feedback, i wanted to do mine but only saw the normal you tube poor ones so wanted to make something a little better .... be careful when removing the EGR pipe like i did at 4.40 into the video as my hose actually ended up being split on its rear and i had a few weeks of head scratching after to figure out what was causing my excessive smoke (it was over-fueling due to the lost air) and performance drop. Glad to have helped some one !!!!
Best video on TH-cam for this subject
Cheers Lee, thank you!
Wow, so much hassle for replacing the coolant thermostat!
Great step by step video. It will be a little bit easier with your DIY.
Cheers mate!
Great guide. I changed both thermostats on my 2007 535d when I bought the car two years ago but made life difficult for my self by not removing half of what you did so I'll employ your method this time. My coolant temp is low again at around 70 degrees so I will be changing both (40k miles since the last ones were done) but I will also clean my ear because it must be well bunged up. Thanks.
Really REALLY helpful video - thanks very much for your time & effort doing this. Made it all a fairly quick & painless job to replace them instead of undoing half the engine bay then forgetting where half the bits went! :D
Hi Jim D. Glad it helped you out ! .... can't believe this video has had over 105,000 hits now !
Excellent tutorial. I may well attempt this thanks to your detailed instructions.
Thanks for the feedback!.... Have a go, you'll be fine, just take your time
Very useful thank you, just started replacing both thermostats on my e92 335d, a few minor differences between the two installations but overall a very helpful video
Thank you very much. A thorough and very descriptive instruction. Wish more of the TH-cam tutorials were like this. Many thanks. :)
Hjörleifur Jóhannesson .... thanks for the kind words. Glad it helped you : )
Hi Julian, glad it helped. As far as I can gather the 2.0 lump is very similar in a lot of aspects to the 3.0 unit. Great to share your feedback and hopefully someone with a 2.0 may see also and with your feedback and the video, help them also. Cheers Dave
Great video mate,
cheers, a few years ago that !
@@Planefix1 me too, just looking through e60 videos, but that’s a well explained one, like an exploded diagram on a video 👌
@@paulc1976 when i did it i watched a few (all crap) so i thought i would do a proper one which someone could sit down and make a brew and watch the night before and refer to later step by step - glad you like it !
I keep meaning to make videos like this, but I get in the groove, and next thing the jobs done😄, I started making one of my daughters Polo when I did the sills… went for a brew and forgot to continue recording 😯
@@paulc1976 i know what you mean, I've done hundreds of jobs on the cars, but its just getting the time etc to do it !
Thanks bro. Helped a lot. Just want to ask how do you bleed the system afterwards. I poured the needed antifreeze started the car and drove it until it reached 90 degrees. Then I tried to bleed the system from thr tap on the egr thermostat but no bubbles came out, just antifreeze, so I closed it immediately. Next day just poured more coolant until it reached between between min and max. I am not sure if I did it the right way. And before opening the tap moved the cabin temp to max.
Hi, its been a while but i dont recall having any major problems bleeding the system - i think i followed a similar process to you to be honest
Hello Bruno ... Thank you for the kind feedback.
Great video with clear and very thorough instructions.
I’m going to be doing this on my E61 535d when the parts arrive. From the comments, I see there is one bolt on the 535 that is more difficult to access?
Also, do I need to drain all the coolant out before? Also, I couldn’t see a procedure to bleed the system after….is this necessary?
Thanks and again great video!
Hi, i sold the car a few years ago, but from what i can remember! ...... Not sure about the extra bolt, i saw the comment, but have never seen a 535 version sorry, i didn't drain any coolant, i just popped it out and let it drain itself then topped it up ....... i didn't have any bleeding issues at all that i remember. There is a small screw on the EGR thermostat and i think i just bled that a little, but that was about it. Thanks for the comments, glad its helped!
@@Planefix1Thanks. Parts arrived today. So it’s the job for the weekend! Many thanks again.
Exceptionally good video !
I will try doing the same on my 525d tomorrow. Keep the fingers crossed!
Great video! Only way to improve would be to mention the tools required. I got to the last 2 bolts to remove the EGR cooler only to find I hadn't got the right size Torx drive.
Thanks for your effort.
David Cheshire what size did you need? T30 Or t35?
Cracked video thanks v much for taking the time to create this.... Need to replace the stats on my e70 X5 with same engine should be a lot easier now I've seen this 👍
Glad its helped you!
Hi RC fun. I was aware this was/is a common failure so I did the dashboard temp check. My car also was not getting very hot from the heater. As I recall it was only getting to around 70 degrees C. The upper EGR thermostat is relatively easy to change on its own so you may wish to try this first. Once completed and running at a good temperature my car MPG went up to around 34mpg from approx 31-32 average before.
Brilliant video, thanks for sharing!
Really good instructions
Glad you liked it :)
Thank you a lot. very nice tutorial. this will help me out a lot!
greetings from Germany (y)!
No problem, glad it helped!
Excellent guide fella, well done. Two questions... 1) What heads do the exhaust clamp bolts have? 2)Can a metric socket be used to remove the spline bolt holding the electrical connector on the EGR valve? Thanks.
Hi. I seem to remember both the items being splined heads so no I don't think a metric socket could be used. I can't check now as sold the car about 3yrs ago!.... Cheers dave
Just having to change the EGR thermostat on my 2001 E39 530D. Have to remove the flexible vacuum hose to get at the rear 10mm bolt on the EGR thermostat. A new flexible vacuum hose costs about the same as the EGR thermostat!
Only need to remove the acoustic panels from the top of the engine to change the EGR thermostat, no major dismantling required. Changing the thermostat doesn't involve changing the EGR cooler on an E39 530D.
Thanks for the info thats a Great tip for E39 people!
@@Planefix1 EGR thermostat only applies to the automatics, well there is one on my 530D auto and there isn't one on my 530D manual.
Thanks for the info @@grahamepigney8565 its odd, but maybe something to do with the year of manufacture / legislation at the time? I guess the auto is newer than the manual ?
You wouldn’t happen to vaguely what internal size the flexible pipes on the egr cooler are they look about 1”?
Excellent write up, really healed me. Do you have a decent video of exhaust manifold replacement for E60
What a great video mate! Btw did you need to drain the coolant completely? Did you remove the under-trays?
perfect ... very well, your explanations are perfect for a good disassembly
Thankyou glad it helped
You are a king
Well thank you !
Thank you,A very good film.I shall change mine today.
Do you know how to adjuse highbeam on a 530 2007 LCI?.It is same lamp to low and high beam,but it is a sort of cup which goes up when highbeam is on.My is to high.Do i have to aduse it on computer?
Regards from Ulf
Thank you for posting sir.
My pleasure!
Very good video! Thank You!
Great video m8 that’s the job done cheers
Thanks for the posative comments
Great video, very informative
Excellent, thanks for the feedback!
There are small drops of water coming out from the egr thermostat joint of my bmw e60 525d. Do you think it can be the yellow O ring ?
There is a good chance and you may get away with just changing the seal?.....but you should really take it off and inspect it fully as these plastic housings are susceptible to having hair line cracks appear. As I recall the EGR thermostat isn't that expensive. If your going to go to the bother it might be just as well to change it whole?..... NO EBay cheap Chinese ones though!... These need to be genuine, the cheap ones fail quickly. Hope this helps, but you could just try a new seal first yes.
Exellent Tutorial . Thx a lot Now just need a couple of hours to do it.
excellent video. that bottom bolt on the 535 that holds thermo cooler to manifold is a nightmare
Hi Thanks Paul. Is it very different on the 535 than my video ?
Thank you so much for this great video :)
Excellent video, thanks!
Glad you liked it thanks !
the split EGR hose. is there anyway of removing without spitting it?
Very clear! Thanks! How long would it take to replace only the main thermostat approx?
To be honest, there won't be much of a time saving I don't think?.... All in all the main stat should be able to be completed within 2hrs I think.
Thank you, very good video!!
Thank you very much
Hello and greetings Sir, I just want to tell you that you are a very fine and professional person and thank you for your video, super HELP I wish you all the best.
Thank you !
Many thanks for your very useful video. Did your thermostat failed indicated from your dash codes and this is why you are replacing them? or is there other reasons? is this part of the service interval?
Hello RC ..... as far as i am aware they are not on any service schedule, just changed on condition. I looked into the secret menu on the dash to get my temperature as the car MPG was a little low (around 30-31) ... Once changed the MPG increased a couple of MPG.
+Planefix1, I know how to access my secret menu too... :-)
My 3 series costs around 20p a mile, seems low on mpg!
What is the norminal temp?
What was your temp that made you want to change that thermostat?
How long of a drive or idle to proper warm engine before checking temps?
Hi RC .... my car was running very low around 65-70 even after a run and the heater inside was not hot..... when I changed both it worked fine !
Planefix1 oh I see. Thanks so much for the valuable info :)
great job! was the first cleaning the egr?
regards from Poland :-)
Great video and thanks for posting. Would you be able to advise what engine type this is please, I might need to do this job on a 2010 635d 6 series with an M57N2 engine and would be really useful to know if they are the same.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Yes it would be good to know if this is the same on an E65 730d also M57N2
THANK YOU VERY MUCH for this teach-video!!!!! PLEASE MAKE MORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Do you remove cooling liquid first ?
No, i just went for it !
thank you man very helpful
No problem !
Hello, what tools you have used to reach four EGR valve bolts?
Hi, I had some long Allen key head screwdrivers. But If I recall, a small 1/4" socket set fitted as well?
Hello, I have managed to remove EGR and Throttle Body. Cleaned everything and put together. A reason why I was removing to inspect why Throttle Valve doesn’t move when engine is being switch off and just shake the whole engine. I can move Throttle engine valve by hand. What could be a reason why doesn’t function? Maybe board inside is damaged by oil?
@@TomasKulikauskas have you had it plugged in yet to read any fault codes?
Thanks for the video.
Sorry for the stupid question im new at this. Do you have to bleed the cooling system before doing all this ?
Yan Caron .... Hi. Its not a stupid question, we all have to start and learn sometime ! ..... OK the answer is no you do not need to bleed the system. When you take the pipes off the water will gush out itself. You may need to bleed it afterwards though but i think ive talked about that in the video. Cheers dave
Do these cars have that typical bad diesel smell? Specially at cold start? I just drove one, superb car but the smell is really bad, even though it was the euro 4
Yes, especially if the DPF filter has been removed !!!!
@@Planefix1 yes maybe the dpf was removed. But still I don't understand how is possible that many euro 3 e38 and e65 730d don't have any smell but the euro 4 aluminium block engines smell stronger.. maybe swifl flaps removal influences also
@Planefix1
I did it! I also changed the waterpump and the Two belts and just want to say thank you again!!🤝🤝🤝🤝
Edvin Avdic ... well done ! .... i didnt change my water pump or belts due to them both looking in good condition. Im glad this video helped you save a lot in garage fees !
Hi, did you drain the coolant prior to replacing the thermostat?
No, I just dropped it
excellent video... beautiful but complicated cars... subbed and hello from Tipperary.... ☺
Cheers ! .... complicated but great cars I agree
Hello do you have to purge the air for the EGR thermostat using the screw on top of it, after you have fitted it ?
Hi .... i did personally as its just a small screw .... but to be honest very little air came out and i had no real problems with air locks etc at all, if any. Thanks for watching 😀
Hi there. Thank you for the excellent video. I have seen some quick fix videos for the EGR 'stat change along with written descriptions of the process to do both but seeing your video is super helpful! I will be tacking this shortly on my 2009 E61 525d xDrive. Let's see how much crud I have accumulated in the EGR in the last 125,000km...
One thing though. Can you elaborate on the coolant refill procedure? I hear that about 3L of 'red' BMW coolant is needed along with equal parts de-ionised water. It would be helpful to know the procedure to refill and then presumably bleed the system. I would imagine there is a bleed valve somewhere to consider...? Should we do a flush at the same time? If so, do you know how?
Many thanks for the help!
Hi Siggy,
Thank you for the kind comments. When refilling my coolant i simply topped it up from the reservoir as i didn't actually loose that much (probably less than 1.5 - 2 liters). I may be mistaken but i believe my coolant was green/blue in colour, but that would be insignificant as long as you use the same type as what you have in now (mine is UK spec perhaps its different where you are ?). To bleed the system i literally just cracked the coolant screw right on the top of the EGR thermostat housing. You need a large Phillips or flat head screwdriver and then just crack it open and let some air escape. When i cracked mine i only got a small amount of air out of the system. I then started the car and did the normal sort of stuff such as, run the car at idle until at temperature then checked the fluid level again, then took it out for a long run with the heater on etc then checked again and then monitored it over the next few days - but like i said to be honest i never even had to top it back up at all and its ran fine since. I've personally never used de-ionised water to fill any car coolant system, just normal tap water and antifreeze mix, but if it states de-ionised water you can buy this cheaply from an auto store for a pound or so per litre (its cheap anyway) ........ hope this helps ! ....... cheers David
+Planefix1 Wonderful, thank you. I was under the impression that you would lose more fluid than that, or perhaps you would use the opportunity to change/flush all of the fluid. If it's safe to just carry on with the remaining fluid and top it up then I'll go with that. In the meantime, I did call by local Stealer (Switzerland FYI) and they also use blue, not red. I got the red idea from a forum post somewhere.
I think this looks simple enough that I am going to order up the parts an go for it. I am getting 69degrees average with 10degree ambient temp so I believe both of my 'stats are stuck open. Wish me luck!
Hi Siggy
Yes 69 degrees is very low, you should see an increase in MPG when done by 1-2 Miles per Gallon (I did) ...... If you follow this video you wont go far wrong as i think i've covered it all pretty much. Just be carefull bending the boost hose pip out the way to remove the radiator fan as this caused my hose to split a few months later (stress i guess from being bent out the way - my car is a 2005). ..... good luck !
+Planefix1 Thanks for the tip on the boost hose. I will be careful with it.
I have just been to BMW and picked up the new main thermostat, EGR thermostat, little yellow washer, 1.5L of BMW coolant concentrate and 5L of distilled water from a local shop. The plan is to have a crack at it tomorrow morning so I have just removed the engine cover and hit lots of bolts with some penetrating spray (GT85) to make things easier tomorrow. Wish me luck!! I will be following your video and hope that things go smoothly!
+Planefix1 OK, I have just finished the job. 3 hours in total with a friend's help. Nothing was hard except perhaps access to a few bolts. Thank you so much for this excellent video. I would never have attempted it without watching it a few times. The engine temp has gone from a wildly fluctuating 69 average to a pretty steady 92 degrees. I'd call that 100% fixed! The EGR stat was stuck wide open (I could blow right through like it were a tube!) I actually disconnected the smallest pipe coming out of the main thermostat towards the bottom end of the EGR and used it to drain 2.5L of fluid. In the end I had to top up by about 1L that was lost to the garage floor. I cleaned the EGR whilst I had it off. It wasn't too grubby (125,000km) but it's gleaming now.
Thank you thank you thank you! That's 620 Swiss Francs of BMW labour I didn't pay this morning! :)
thanks so much. very useful tutorial!!
My e60 is like yours, how do you bleed the system mate?
Sorry i dont own the car anymore i cant recall exactly, but i didn't seem to have a problem following normal routine
Excellent video I also have to do this on my 2004 E60, verry helpful!!!
Cheers John
great video, thanks!
Cheers Nikola
On the black plate where the EGR valve has been removed there is a raised part with what looks like a 10/12mm hole in it? My 530D has the same. It is just open, nothing is connected to it? Do you know if it is a breather or should it have a plug in, or a pipe connected to it? Thanks
Sorry I have no idea as I sold the car around 5 years ago now! .... But I do now have a 330d hitch looks near identical so I'll try and have a look tomorrow!
excellent video
Cheers thank you !
Good guide mate
Adibuzz08 .... cheers ! Hope it helped
Hi mine is 520d 177Ps , I deleted the EGR.
And there is no smoke at all and the mpg is still getting nearly 60 mpg if I stick on 70mph.
Mixed around 45 mpg.
So what's the point of this extra parts there and make things complicated?
Could u give me an answer.
Thanks.
The EGR recirculates a small amount of exhaust gasses back into the intake at medium to low revs in order to reduce the cylinder temperature (by putting inert gasses back in thereby making the mixture less flammable). This lower cylinder temperature actually allows a more complete burn of the fuel that is injected thereby reducing the total emissions. In other words, it is complicated, it is prone to faults, it saps power, but it's necessary for the manufacturers to get modern diesel cars through the ever stricter emissions limits.
@@siggy101 Excellent answer! Thank you for that.
Brilliant video thank you buddy
wah786 .... cheers mate, hope.it helped you.
Hi .... i did personally as its just a small screw .... but to be honest very little air came out and i had no real problems with air locks etc at all, if any. Thanks for watching 😀
Hi, good video. I would like to change my one. I checked in ebay there is too many, any particular brand?
Harry Isuf. Hi Harry ... do not buy a cheap one off EBAY or you will be changing it again shortly !. Please trust me and buy a Genuine BMW item it is worth the little extra my friend
Eurocarpards???
Where did you get your one?
Harry Isuf ... i went direct to the BMW main dealer /garage.
I am using this video not to see how to change the thermostat, but to see how to install de fan, nice i broke the 2 clips on the top part of the radiator, because i forced kkkk know i know that is 5 screws.
glad it helped you 💲
Hi thanks for the video. Main thermostat on my 525d was replaced by previous owner and while going in to replace crank pulley it appears there is a leak from the thermostat just under where it bolts on. Anyone ever seen this? Wonder if I should just take it off and add some sealant.
philbLeprechaun .... Well I guess you could strip it down and check the pipe connection and or bolts are tight first. To put some sealant on properly you would basically have to do the whole job anyway so I personally would fit a new pump while I did it. Reason is I heard pattern parts fail quick. It may be that the part he fitted was not origional anyway ?. If cash is tight then check the bolts are tight and pipe connections and then take it from there.
Planefix1 cheers. Yes my suspicion is they fitted cheap thermostat
Nice one thanks for the clear instructions, I feel a lot more confident tackling this now!
P.s doe's the coolant leak everywhere once you remove the main thermostat?
Kind Regards
Thames Rubbish .... Quite a bit is lost I would say around 50 percent of my coolant was lost
Muchas gracias!!
thank you!
thank you so much it is very healpfull
Thanks ... Glad it helped
Thanks John ... drop me a message if you get stuck
Hi, with my e90 320d automatic, normal working coolant temperature is 88-91c while car is going... when the car stops (working in neutral) temperature reaches 96-97c but not going over... is that normal?
Hello ..... That temperature sounds OK to me, although i dont know the exact 320d temperatures. Have you had a trawl of the internet to look ?. The fact the car temperature peaks a little immediately after a run would i suggest be normal. It should however return to normal after a while. If the thermostats were faulty i think your temperature would a lot lower than @90 deg C. Have you noticed a significant drop in performance or MPG ? lack of heat inside the car ? excess smoke out the back ? ........ if not i would suggest its most likely OK.
+Planefix1 I have changed both of thermostats, and a water pump few weeks ago because on open road coolant temperature was not going over 60c... Few days ago I have noticed that coolant (open road or city driving) have temperature 88-91c, which is normal... but while car is not moving (working in N, or in traffic jams) coolant temp goes to 97c, but not over, and when car starts to move it drops on 90c... So I dont know should car increase coolant temp to 97c while not moving, I dont know is it normal or not... :/
+Planefix1 I havent noticed drop in performance or lower mpg, or the smoke behind, nothing wrong... if I werent looked in hidden manu, I wouldnt know the problem...
Well that's what I mean ... im not sure you have a problem at all ?
if you plan the job and have all the right tools about 40 min needed on a520
you loose all the coolant onto the street unless you want to fool about taking off the undercover
I think on a 520 with the smaller engine and more space that might not be far out, yes
good job. .tnx
AWESOME!!!
Edvin Avdic ... Cheers !
Planefix1 really good job!
But theres still one thing i do not unterstand:S
How do i bleed the system after replacing the two thermostats?
And how many liters of the antifreeze i will need after?
Greets from vienna🤝
Edvin Avdic ..... if you move the video to 5.37 time. You will see the EGR thermostat housing has a plastic cross head screw, bleed valve on it. Once all refitted. Start to fill the coolant as normal (dont forget to add antifreeze). Once the expansion tank is full, open this screw and allow the air to escape. Also squeeze the radiator hoses to help expel any trapped air. Start the engine and let the system run amd watet to move around. Open the bleed valve again to expel any more air. Allow the engine to get upto temperature (keep monitoring the water level) makes sure you have the in car heater on full hot. To be honest thats all i did. I didnt even have to top the water up afterwards ! .... Obviously i would check the water daily for the following few days to be safe and carry a couple of litres of watet with you just in case, but i think you will be just fine .... good luck !
Planefix1 thank You so much!!
I will report😃 hopefully positive
Thanks
sub and a like, doing this tomorrow.
Wanna do mine?!
Ha.... Thanks but I'm OK, I have enough cars myself to maintain!.... You'll be fine if you follow my guide.
Super job man,, thank you
Cheers !
Thanks