as a home owner i did all my own work and the state does the inspections. my service provider also does not allow bypass levers on residential service. i put in a 320 panel on the pump house and it feeds 2 200 amp sub panels for the house and the shop. i also did all the work for my temp service and panel for construction, and wired all the shop/house. it's not rocket science but it seems there are a lot of idiots out there.
I see no problem with a homeowner installing things, that is as long as they know what they are doing and pass the code. As for me I can do the work, but the hardest thing would be the physical work. The key thing is that the main breaker is sized according to the feeder wires. My home is from the 1950s/1960's and it has a 60A panel. Perhaps that 100Amp is on new construction. I would want to do it properly, and it is not that hard to do it right. However most people would not do things like me, and that is so I will not have possible problems in the future. Too many people don't know even how to wire an outlet correctly. Also something that many including electricians don't do, and that is oversize wires when the run is longer. This prevents problems in the future with motors not starting properly. The more experienced electricians will say something about this when they spot it, but many of the newer ones will not. Also just because something is code does not mean that it is a good idea, one such thing is using the conduit as a ground. I know it costs a little more to run another wire, but it is much safer in the long run. Also I will say that code is the minimum that is allowed, and that it is better to always exceed that instead of going for what the code will allow. I say this as an engineer, and quite often I am amazed at what is allowable. One thing on conduit, I like to go a little bigger such as if there is room and I might in the future what to possibly do something else will run 3/4 instead of 1/2. However to run outside lights 1/2" is great. Can't damage it very easily, and the most important outside is keeping things sealed from the elements such as rain and keeping the bugs and mice out.
So where in the 2017 NEC is the codes requiring the voltage drop, or does is it not a code? where is the requirements in the code on the single family dwelling? where is the service size (min) for the other structures and what is the requirement when you are installing 110v to 220v? It maybe easy to you to do some of these things, but if you do not do this for a living and every three years upgrade your license and take your on going CEU of educations and keeping this logged with DORA, than there are many items that you are probably missing. Just because a local inspector looks at a HO work, does not mean they cannot miss things or are not truly an electrical inspector, some are plumbing trades men and they get trained to look for the most common mistakes. Huge Difference. I do agree that the conduit should not be always allowed without an EGC. Where is this in the code for conduit,? There are many different piping systems and they all can be called conduit.
That is in article NEC Section 240-3 , NEC article 210-19, Look at section 215 as well, and can be found at www.fs.fed.us/database/acad/elec/greenbook/3_basicdesigns.pdf, and I have read that there are some that say it is suggested and others say mandatory. Such as a 3% drop between circuits, and a maximum of 5 % drop from the main source (less is better), according to the 1999 code and later. Most of this has to do with motors, and in a home that would be the HVAC, Well Pump, Garbage Disposal, Trash Compactors, Refrigerators/ freezers, and so forth. Basically this is because on any motor the starting current and running current increases with a decrease in voltage that is applied to a motor. I have seen this so bad in some situations that a soft start is installed in industrial equipment (as I have installed a few, where there is a load attached to the motor such as a blower or pump). Also helpful is another site: ewh.ieee.org/r3/atlanta/ias/2016-2017_Presentations/2017-03-09_IEEE%20Atl_RB_NEC2017.pdf As I was saying this has to with mostly motors, and this is the primary largest thing that will be found in residential, but you will find that some people have welders in the home as well (however welders only have a surge when striking the arc, motors are only when starting). As an example if you have someone that wants to install an air compressor, if the unloader fails (this is used to relieve the pressure from the compressor so that there is a minimum load on the unit for starting, it can be a valve in line with the compressor attached to the tank or a hose connected to the pressure switch) and their is 120psi (as an example) on the exhaust valves it will overload the circuit, and even when an air compressor is working properly they do have a large starting current. The sections 240, 210 and 215 apply to this situation. I had to look this up as I usually don't go to the book, but use my working knowledge of equipment when sizing wiring and from that determine what is safe. However when someone does not know how the equipment works, or what is required it is always best to use the code as a minimum. Myself and others oversize things and usually call it a fudge factor, and throw it in to be safe. That is because of our knowledge of the equipment we know what is needed, but because there are many that do not have our background that this has been added to the code for safety. Please keep in mind that a motor often draws 3 to 5 times the rated current when starting and I have seen them draw much more when a starting capacitor is bad. This you will find in residential, as starting capacitors are used on single phase equipment. Run capacitors as well. In industrial when 3 phase is available a start or run capacitor is not needed, but will be found on cooling fans inside equipment.
HUM. PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid Break down 25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250 5 x $70 DUALS each = $350 1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175 1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300 1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125 mis other breakers non afci = $75 fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50 Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150 Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135 Permit = $125 City Disconnect power fee = $190 Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25 _________________________________________________+ $2,950.00 total X .09% taxes +265 ______________ $3,215.00 X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965 +$965 _________________ $4,180.00 + $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer. _________________ $5,380.00 + $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business. _________________ $7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices. WOW! I sure made a lot on this JOB!!!! NOT> So, before you go and blast us on youtube, know the facts.
My panel on my rental fried on the 4th of July. Electrician wanted $10K to fix it. A friend knew an old dude that would swap it out live for $800. I bought the panel from HD, stood behind him with a 2x4 as he used cardboard and tape to isolate the power and do the swap. It was awesome. DIY is America and the American dream.
An old guy as in he had been doing electrical for 40+ years or old as in make the old guy do it, he's lived his life long enough and if someone has to go let it be him lol?
@@bubbadoright9271 every electrician at some point of their life have had work on a live panel as they should if their specialized field is dealing in residential homes. Typical cost of material and labor is or and depending of the situation would be around $1000-$2000. $10,000 is a rough in for a small home.. but for 800 dollars your either one of those retard homeowners but I won't judge.
I just put a 2nd meter base on my property. It is for a farm building and when I want to get a permit they told me my farm exempt permit for the structure covers the electric also so no permit needed and I'm having the utility company bring me 400 Amos. They are doing parallel 200 amps. Idk why they didn't just do a single 400. This is semi temporary until I can afford it get 3 phase brought from the other side of the street
Im our area a homeowner can pull a permit for pretty much any kind of work but must meet same code standards as a contractor . This is where the inspector should be held liable if he passed the install and things werent to code . I am a licensed electrician here in va and have seen shoddy work both from homeowners as well as contractors but both must be inspected and meet the same codes regardless and i think an inspector should be as strict on either one .
HUM. PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid Break down 25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250 5 x $70 DUALS each = $350 1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175 1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300 1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125 mis other breakers non afci = $75 fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50 Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150 Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135 Permit = $125 City Disconnect power fee = $190 Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25 _________________________________________________+ $2,950.00 total X .09% taxes +265 ______________ $3,215.00 X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965 +$965 _________________ $4,180.00 + $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer. _________________ $5,380.00 + $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business. _________________ $7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
I am having a problem with the metal square piece that holds the ground wire into the meter box. 200 amp one. The screw to attach it is too small. How do you attach that piece to the inside? The backing it connects onto is also plastic. Makes no sense.
The inspectors should hold everyone to the same code, just as you stated. If they did that then you would have no reason to discourage homeowners from doing their own work, unless you are interested in not losing business. Also, I don't believe for a moment that when you have a leaky faucet that you are calling in a plumber for that and paying them contractor rates. I also don't believe that you would entertain a plumber telling you that you can't repair that faucet unless you have 20 years of experience. Yes, a service change is a bigger job than the faucet however the point still stands.
YOU CAN DO WHAT EVER YOU WANT IN YOUR OWN HOME, I just think that when you go to sell it, you should be held at the same standard as a contractor or you do not get to sell your home. Ha, that is what happens to us as contractors.
HUM. PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid Break down 25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250 5 x $70 DUALS each = $350 1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175 1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300 1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125 mis other breakers non afci = $75 fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50 Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150 Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135 Permit = $125 City Disconnect power fee = $190 Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25 _________________________________________________+ $2,950.00 total X .09% taxes +265 ______________ $3,215.00 X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965 +$965 _________________ $4,180.00 + $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer. _________________ $5,380.00 + $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business. _________________ $7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices. WOW! I sure made a lot on this JOB!!!! NOT> So, before you go and blast us on youtube, know the facts.
I have watched alot of your videos, mainly came across it because I am dealing with removing the old knob and tube wiring and I never had to deal with it untill I bought my house, I like how you point out how incompatant home owners and dyi'ers are trying to save a dime but 10-40 years down the road it causes issues. I started remodling a bedroom because I have a child on the way and noticed knob and tube supplies majority of the house on two circuits. I see alot of stuff that shouldn't be done and I can relate. I did go to Alfred state College in New York for electrical construction and maitenance but only finished the residential and commercial, not hazardous location and industrial. I like your work good job
Thanks for watching. I would use a wiggy in the attic and see if the old Knob&2 is still live. If so then maybe consider using AFCI breakers and fishing some NM. I understand your schooling, I never had the chance to get in to industrial work, just hard and soft commercial work as well as customer and log homes. I personally do not think anyone can see it all, the field is TOO large. Cheers!
@@Petersonelectricllc I don't have an accessable attic but it looks like they ran the circuits through the 2nd floor, floor joists right now Im working on my baby room and I can access the kitchen, dining room from above. Unfortunately they are both drop ceilings with those cheap square ceiling tiles.
Ok, are you an inspector? Meter enclosures are to be determined on how to ground based on the utility standards. I have one electrical service provider that wants a ground bushing grounded and another one that says no.
Seen 2- 200 amp service on a BIG house buddy of mine ,agree never would do a service change I like neat panels plus all the shit that needs to be done right .I did a 100 amp to 200 amp upgrade underground cable cost around $2,500.00 around early 2000 time frame KC area .
I am a apprentice electrician on the path of getting my license now and I see no problem with a homeowner changing their own service or doing any upgrades if they go to the permit office in the county that they stay in pull the permit install the equipment and the inspector comes out and passes it its no different than a licensed electrician pulling the permit and installing the equipment because at the end of the day the inspector has to give the okay on it no matter if you are a homeowner or a licensed electrician because either one of them can make a mistake I feel like if they just let licensed electricians do all the work and not a homeowner that can the price of work with just be crazy a licensed electrician with no the only he could do the work and could charge whatever he wanted to
I would say two things to you, 1st. why are you evening getting a license? and 2nd. you have not had 20 years of seeing HO wiring and them making a profit when they sell this house and the look in the eye of the next 1st time home buyer and the sadness of getting the news of the bad wiring. If a HO is good enough to pass a one time inspection that does not make him or her an electrician. Yes, I agree that some shops have sub-pair work to an expensive price, but if they know their code and they are every three years attending schooling for their PEU's than i have to say this is total worth it to pay for a licensed shop. OH YAH, There are some really lazy and uneducated inspectors out there, and yet some good one's too. Note: The last two times i had a root canal, this Dr. made $2,900 off of me out side of my insurance and they (my insurance) then paid another $3,400 of the bill. SO $6,500 FOR AN HOUR OF WORK? Any business owner has to know their overhead and what it takes to break even every month, yet fighting the tax laws on a small business for state and federal, and yet trying to grow to hire an "APPRENTICE" (such as your self) to educate them and send them out, and oh yah, don't forget you have to save for you own retirement, because there is no big company that is going to pay you for another 25 years of existence because your body can not handle the field past 50.
@@Petersonelectricllc lol on that note let's let our friends do heart surgery on us even thought they aren't licensed surgeons! I can't believe some of these "electricians" are saying home-owners should touch their own wiring. Have some pride about our trade! Great video! 3rd term IBEW apprentice
@@LotusEater9311 Thanks for watching, I do not understand these guys mentality. If they do not run a business they have NO IDEA what it takes on the finical side of the overhead; advertisement, permit, licensing, ongoing PDE's classes, books, memberships, van payments, if you run out of a commercial building, personal overhead for your family, maintenance on trucks, gas, business insurance, personal insurance, taxes, state and federal, parts and many other things, OH YAH your personal 401k and kids, yah de yah de and on and on. Every business must try to make a 20% profit for the next year of it's dollar value going down. Most of all we have to know our competitions pricing. Not sure why people do not question health or other fees when they are flying or take their family on vacation.
@@Petersonelectricllc I'm going to subscribe! After aquiring my certificate I'm hoping to go for my Master license to open a business in the future. Our code here in Canada is a little different, but the knowledge on your channel is still valuable ! Cheers
I'm a graduate electrical engineer(retired). In my career I worked with electrical machinery(industrial),PLC, 120 KV insulator testing lab, power station etc. One thing I marked that, contactors are always talking about code, code and code. Never talk about electrical hazards or engineering formula. Main cause of electrical failure is not following the engineering formula/loose connection/miscalculate the load etc. I respect the professional contractor's work but I think codes need to be flexible as long as it does not create hazard or unsafe condition. In NEC, there are so many codes are just cosmetic, in other words contractor's money making tool.
Mr Hanson you are correct! This little foul mouth weasal is so afraid he might loose some business telling folks they can't do their own work. Hell I've done many upgrading to 200 Amp Panels and Sub Panels AND getting my own permit's. Anybody can purchase the NEC code book and if you can read and have the mechanical experience you can do this for a fraction of Peterson Electric. I get permits and have never had a failed inspection. I have done HVAC work for 40 years and anyone who can turn a screwdriver can do an upgrade panel on their home unless you listen to this little shit talk!
Most of the code is there because something that didn't meet those standards caused a fire... or electrocution. We legislate based on protecting the stupidest person you can find. This is why we need a law telling people not to watch TV while they drive. (That one has been around for over 40 years. It was first enacted not too long after the first battery operated portable TVs were sold.)
As someone who worked in the electrical trade over 40 yrs i can honestly say most engineers don't actually know the first thing about actually performing work in the field and most have never actually installed any type of equipment ever ! Yet they always seem to think they know more than people who have actually work as a contractor for many years. Engineers are good at what they were trained in engineering but not much else in my experience.
@@gregmartin1757 Engineers for sure know more than you do; 40yrs or 140. Anyone can learn how to play with industrial legos... not everyone can design the legos and the instructions.
Hey , enjoyed the video, trying NOT to do what that guy did in Denver, where they passed him. I am trying to get this straight, so when my main meter was moved about 30 feet away, they added a real small 6X9" separate box with the drop and meter sitting above that box. So if I upgrade to a 200 amp panel, should I place it right after the meter and drop? Or at the original main house panel location about 30 feet away? Thank You appreciate the video and info Raul PHX metro
It's more up to the power company. Some power companies want a premium and some don't need one they will just come out cut power let you change out what you need to and tell you to call them when you are done
Mmmm with those numbers $$$ are you really surprise why homeowners opt to try and do it themselves 😆. Respect to you Journey man who have put the time and effort in 👏🏾
i think if electricians didn't charge lawyer rates people won't need to DIY it. days work for a days pay is fair. but a months pay for a days work, is what makes people take it on themselves
So this is your assumption. Do you go the the bank and tell them that a 30 yr loan is silly, or you save and go to Vegas and pay too much, or you go to your boss and say I sound be paid more because I showed up. If you had any clue what it costs to run a small business today your opinion would be different. Good Luck!
@@Petersonelectricllc I do own a small business, and do hire other contractors, this is why i made the comment. I do not hire guys that think their time is over valued. It makes no sence to be a dyi-er if the rates are fair. the by product is more ppl think, not worth it to do it myself. One contractor quotes me 10K to swap a 3ton heat pump a days work. I say woooh. I go buy the condensor 2k line sets $100 and pay a trained tech $1000 for the day which is a good rate. 7500 labor for one day is wacko, but they get it. which is why i took it into my own hands just like homeowners do. you mention they should not let homeowners do proffessinal work. I've learned they won't if it's not worth it to do so, is my point
@@Petersonelectricllc , i agree with that, if they want to take it on, then they should also take on all the responcibility and be held to the same standards as experienced tradesman, with no double standards. usually the homeowner standard of approval is good enough, and likely NOT.
@@scottclementbuilt7213 I agree that there are electricians that do bad work in my area, I catch it all of the time. I saw one last year that blew my mind, they did a bid for S$7,000 to rewire the small two bedroom, one bath bungalow and when we got there to look at it, it had thwn wires lose, grey and black bx with knob-tube wiring and white jacket and yellow jacket on the # 12. This showed me 7 different remodels and all was accessible from the attic. There was a lower ceiling dropped back in the 80's, not sure why they went from 10' to 8' ceilings, which made the remodel hard. They asked me what was to be done, pretty much start from scratch and take this company to court. I did not charge for a two hours to walk through that was suppose to be a service call for lights flickering. I personally did not want to charge them for their troubles. I know of this company in town and was sadden to even think I helped them with a heads up on another job. I will make certain if i hear I am biding against them to warn the potential customers.
BTY, they asked me how much to rewire the house correctly, including the overhead service change that was BS with only one AFCI breaker, I told them $12k. The other company was too low on the remodel (attic work and walls) and the other company before them, who did bad work on the service, was making many mistakes on the mast and meter along with keeping a horribly small old panel.
Nice explanation on fees , very important when in the electrical contracting business, the costumer needs to know truthfullly all fees prior, this guy knows he's ****
Hi….thank you for taking the time to make this. I will be upgrading service to 320 amp from 125 amp to feed two 200 amp panels here very soon. I live in the county outside of Durango…I was told all electrical inspections are done by state inspectors in Colorado? Or is that only in LaPlata County? I appreciate your experience….and am on the fence on whether I will do it myself or hire it out. Ideally, I would like to hire a local electrician to consult and supervise my work. Hoping I can find someone local willing to do that….
I agree us DIYers should not do the 100 to 200 amp. The energy company said that they handle the exterior, or at least that's how I heard it. When I called the inspector for my 200amp panel that I did, I was schooled. So now I'm calling in an electrician that has been inspected by this inspector so he'll know what to expect. Inspector was more than nice in helping me. Had I known all the work needed, I would have had the electrician do all aspects of this job. It would have been well worth the money.
Lol I went on a service call the other day and this dude had a 400 amp main with a couple of subpanels.. The feeders for both of the subpanels were double tapped on the lugs at the main panel and there were no ground wires pulled. When I asked the guy about it he said that it “passed inspection”. I told him that was bullshit and there was no way it could’ve but now I’m not so sure.
Right off the bat, my power company would fail that meter the way it is. They do not want the feed coming up on the handle side of the meter. I actually had to redo it which was ridiculous. They also do not want the feed wires crossing any of the load wires.
In Oklahoma we can set up our own service (outside of city limits) without permits or inspectors - I've done it several times, but fortunately the POCO has a very complete and thorough guide with a parts list for setting them up.
HUM. PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid Break down 25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250 5 x $70 DUALS each = $350 1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175 1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300 1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125 mis other breakers non afci = $75 fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50 Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150 Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135 Permit = $125 City Disconnect power fee = $190 Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25 _________________________________________________+ $2,950.00 total X .09% taxes +265 ______________ $3,215.00 X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965 +$965 _________________ $4,180.00 + $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer. _________________ $5,380.00 + $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business. _________________ $7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
I spent a lot of time at coffee shops just studying over 2000 codes. A bit of the book nerd. Once you understand how the code breaks down become simpler, plus all her continued education helps every three years. Thanks for watching
Bragging about "code, code, code, we meet code" is like bragging about passing class with a D. Congratulations, you meet the lowest possible standard. "Homeowner" is not a dirty word. I always laugh about these tradesmen talking about "homeowners" like they are just too stupid to do things correctly while being completely oblivious that they are doing a job that only required OJT and a GED.
HUM. PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid Break down 25 x $50 AFCI each = $1,250 5 x $70 DUALS each = $350 1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175 1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300 1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125 mis other breakers non afci = $75 fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50 Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150 Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135 Permit = $125 City Disconnect power fee = $190 Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25 _________________________________________________+ $2,950.00 total X .09% taxes +265 ______________ $3,215.00 X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965 +$965 _________________ $4,180.00 + $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer. _________________ $5,380.00 + $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business. _________________ $7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
We have no bypass lever in pa or really enforce the ground block for communications. I still put them In and out my ground wire in pvc to the ground but there no Lisense to be an electrician in pa homeowners can do anything as long as the inspector passes it
Yah, I do not agree with HO working on their own homes, they just end up making serious mistakes and than sell their home and make a "HUGE" profit (especially in CO) and the next first time buyer gets the new problems. I have tried voicing my opinions about this changing with DORA and they said that they can't do anything. When I have found out city inspectors have advised HO or walked them through their failing inspections, I call them out and leave them VM.
HUM. PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid Break down 25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250 5 x $70 DUALS each = $350 1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175 1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300 1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125 mis other breakers non afci = $75 fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50 Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150 Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135 Permit = $125 City Disconnect power fee = $190 Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25 _________________________________________________+ $2,950.00 total X .09% taxes +265 ______________ $3,215.00 X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965 +$965 _________________ $4,180.00 + $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer. _________________ $5,380.00 + $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business. _________________ $7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices. WOW! I sure made a lot on this JOB!!!! NOT> So, before you go and blast us on youtube, know the facts.
Looks nice but I'd question the method into which you bonded your bonded your #4 bare and your explanation of why a bonding bushing is required.but I am from florida.
HUM. PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid Break down 25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250 5 x $70 DUALS each = $350 1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175 1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300 1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125 mis other breakers non afci = $75 fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50 Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150 Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135 Permit = $125 City Disconnect power fee = $190 Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25 _________________________________________________+ $2,950.00 total X .09% taxes +265 ______________ $3,215.00 X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965 +$965 _________________ $4,180.00 + $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer. _________________ $5,380.00 + $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business. _________________ $7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
I am not allowed out here to BOND a #4 or #6 to the inside meter can, PER POWER COMPANY's Policy. We were only allowed to us a Bond Bushing, back to back. This is based on article 312 and 314 under cabinets and boxes. Basically because I have an "E" and "C" concentric knock outs. I have many of times ask them to allow us to bond next to the Neutral on the line side. They said this method has changed so there is Less Liability for them, encase of a FAULT AIC backwards on the transformer. Good Question, thanks for watching.
i just found a 400 amp meter socket breaker service entrance after peterson suggested the 320 amp to 2 200 amp panels its also at the homedepot for same price but you can always just search 400 and up amp meter service entrancies be amazed whats out there www.amazon.com/Siemens-MM0404L1400RLM-400-Amp-Combination-Ringless/dp/B008KMFNG6/ref=asc_df_B008KMFNG6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194019628201&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4673543371372033662&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002292&hvtargid=pla-315555428305&psc=1
Are you worth $100 an hour $200 per hour $300 per hour $400 per hour $2800 to do anything to an upgrade is ridiculous that is way people do it themselves
Yes, we're easily worth over $100 an hour, and that total amount is not labor only, that's the devices & material too. Obviously, you only pay this rate to a JW who knows what he's doing so that your home and tenants are safe. DIY, nothing wrong with that but make no mistake, if you mess up you can kill yourself or someone around.
I disagree! Many of these so called professional electricians do makeshift work but still charge a fortune. This is where the inspector comes in. If someone, anyone, wires a house or box it should be inspected by the inspector and as far as I know, the utility company will not turn on the electricity unless it has the inspector ok. I am not a professional electrician but I am an electronics technician. A lot of the professional electricians do not really understand what they are doing. I built my homes, two of them entirely myself and it saved me a fortune. I wired and plumbed both of them. I do have a code book. And I have seen some unbelievably dangerous home wiring. But no homeowner should be barred from doing his own wiring. But he should be looked at closely by the inspector.
I am glad you know how to read a code book, but unless you have study this field and every three years take your PEU' credits, than I do not think that you can compare yourself with a qualified electrician. I do agree that there are a lot of electricians that make mistakes, but that is part to do with the electrical schooling. Your electronics degree and or cert. is good for it's purpose, but I personally would NEVER buy a home from a guy that wired it as a HO. Not sure what your soap box is about.
@@Petersonelectricllc My soap box is about people who try to prevent a man from wiring his own home. They do this so they get more business. They protect their own. HVAC installers are the worst. There are certainly some home owners who create dangerous situations but some professionals do too. I walked into a house that a friend had just bought and the wiring was enough to make you shudder. The former owner had added lights and outlets in the basement and created his workshop. A total fire hazard and I removed it all out immediately.
@@ronhat-nx6yq So the next time your flying somewhere be sure to tell the captain that you want to save money and your going to fly there. Everyone has to make a living, I do not think it is wrong for a contractor to do his work and be rewarded if he knows his field. Paying a fortune, is when I spent $3,500 for a root canal that took him 30 min.
@@ronhat-nx6yq i agree hvac guys are the worst. they will oversize everything and when their brains stop working and cant figure out a proper way to get a pipe run to a difficult place, than they undersize the pipe. Electricians are 50/50, most cut corners and cant even figure out proper wire sizing for the main by including voltage drop. it is funny listening to their excuses. i wired my home as well, the inspector asked me probably about 15 times if this was my first house, and every time i told him yes. He said if i was an electrician he would recommend me to everybody in my town. Everytime i had a doubt i just called one of the electrical inspectors and asked him what is the code for that. Also i ran all 12/2 for the receptacles and did not take short cut by just pushing the wire end in the back of the receptacles, did it the proper way by making the loop in the proper direction and screwing it down. Also buying the proper lugs to go down a couple of sizes to fit the 200 amp breaker. Homeowners should be able to do their own wiring
Electrical work is not rocket science, the price a contractor charge to replace a box like that is insane. Unfortunately they do get a lot of ppl who's not handy at all and have no choice but to pay that fortune. I've seen a lot of work done by h.o looking a lot better than contractors work. I Remember about 6 years ago I got a quote from 2 contractors to do alumiconn connectors on this 1800sf home. One charged $10.200 the other one was $9.700. I spend $600 in parts and 3 days of work and done it myself, passed inspection
Good for you. Why don't you put in your time then. Just because you worked on your home does not make you a pro. Work in 400 homes and businesses every year and see the bad wiring and failed wiring and what ever is thrown at you and after twenty years then you can say you are becoming a wireman. If you can pull a tooth does it make you a dentist, No.
HUM. PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid Break down 25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250 5 x $70 DUALS each = $350 1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175 1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300 1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125 mis other breakers non afci = $75 fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50 Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150 Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135 Permit = $125 City Disconnect power fee = $190 Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25 _________________________________________________+ $2,950.00 total X .09% taxes +265 ______________ $3,215.00 X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965 +$965 _________________ $4,180.00 + $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer. _________________ $5,380.00 + $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business. _________________ $7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices. WOW! I sure made a lot on this JOB!!!! NOT> So, before you go and blast us on youtube, know the facts.
You are correct - Electrical is not rocket science. But it is also not something that any old Joe can or should do. Ya, you can change out a switch, breaker, outlet - and maybe even wire a new room or addition. And, you can flip through the code book and say you know what the code is. But, you should really leave the big stuff to the Licensed boys. I myself am not an electrician, but have rewired many homes, added new rooms and major appliances, and yes, even read the code. I have a buddy who is a Master Electrician, and I have learned over the years that they are worth every penny when it comes to the big stuff. One thing I WILL NOT do is mess with the big black snake. Not because I can't, or I'm afraid. But because the consequences are too severe. Ya, you can run the wire, hook up the panel, make it look pretty - and sure, it may all work when you flip the switch. But, is your family going to be the one's living in that house for the next 15yrs. There are many things the electrician knows that the average person, and the code book does not. Such as cable ratings, line drop, and most importantly - not what the code says you need to do, but knowing why this needs to be done and how it affects the performance and safety of the new service. Leave the big stuff to the experts. This isn't a "Plug-n'Play" system like everything else we buy nowadays.
@@kenjones5321 every single house I flipped so far has electrical issues, most of them are subpanel with under rated wires, i think if u dont know the cable rating u shouldn't even be attempting to do any electrical work, number one cause of electrical fire are screws not tighten properly. Every state is different, prices and codes, but in fl where I am I think is ridiculous to pay almost $10k to add alumicon to a 1800sf home or $2200 to replace a subpanel box with only 2 30amp breakers.
HUM. PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid Break down 25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250 5 x $70 DUALS each = $350 1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175 1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300 1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125 mis other breakers non afci = $75 fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50 Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150 Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135 Permit = $125 City Disconnect power fee = $190 Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25 _________________________________________________+ $2,950.00 total X .09% taxes +265 ______________ $3,215.00 X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965 +$965 _________________ $4,180.00 + $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer. _________________ $5,380.00 + $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business. _________________ $7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
Had to have new service installed after a house fire. Electrician quoted me $5500 to salvage what was possible and tack together a new system. I did it myself for $800 will all new wire and components from the pole to, and including, new breaker boxes. Took me two full days but well worth the savings. It's not rocket science. Do your research and take your time if you DIY and you'll be fine. In my area, we still have the freedom to do our own building, no permission required from useless bureaucrats.
I loathe discouragement of homeowners doing their own work. I also equally despise homeowners being able to do sub-standard or non code compliant work. If a homeowner wants to take on this project themselves, and they are able to acquire and execute the level of knowledge/workmanship required to pass code, then they should be ENCOURAGED to do so. Sure not many homeowners fall into this category, but pushing to have all homeowners (even competent ones) unable to do their own work is sad.
Get over yourself bro! That $5000 in costs you're throwing around there is just why a lot of homeowners say bunk that. Your scare tactics and comments about building inspectors really annoys me. Most inspectors are a lot better than that. They will work with anybody making a genuine effort to get things right. And yeah, the taxpayer should be treated better than that. I've worked in heavy commercial construction for years with electricians. Half of them think they're gods. A little common sense goes a long way and now days you can learn anything on TH-cam. I've done my own electrical with my past 3 houses without a single issue. If I ran into an something I couldn't figure out I would just shoot a pic of my problem to one of the Sparky's with my cellphone and it was resolved. You're prob one of the reasons carpenters hate electricians.
This stuff isn’t hard you can take a test a become a licensed person to install these meter basses. There’s are a lot of people that can do this work. No big deal
DO A PRICE COUNT ON AFCI BREAKERS, I did a video to show the inside of the house. GO call the utility company in NOCO and complain about their on going fees monthly and their fees to touch anything. No, you just assume to sand blast us.
HUM. PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid Break down 25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250 5 x $70 DUALS each = $350 1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175 1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300 1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125 mis other breakers non afci = $75 fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50 Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150 Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135 Permit = $125 City Disconnect power fee = $190 Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25 _________________________________________________+ $2,950.00 total X .09% taxes +265 ______________ $3,215.00 X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965 +$965 _________________ $4,180.00 + $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer. _________________ $5,380.00 + $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business. _________________ $7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices. WOW! I sure made a lot on this JOB!!!! NOT> So, before you go and blast us on youtube, know the facts.
Our videos are free and informational to the public with no charge other than I have to pay for them to be posted with my SCO guy, if you don’t like it quit watching me, or go to electrical school like I did for seven years, and 2 1/2 more years of appliance tech mission training, and now 15 years on my own. You guys need to quit complaining
I wish COMMONWEALTH EDISON required jaw clamping lever bypass fore resi the only one we have is the 320 class fore 400 amp service I HATE those stupid Milbank exterior reinforced clips THEY ARE JUNK THEY BURN UP .Im a licensed electrician my utility doesnt care if you cut the tag and pull the smart meter AS LONG AS YOUR NOT STEALING ELECTRICITY .My town will give the home owner a permit i saw my neighbor put in a 200 amp service he did a good job and yes he pulled the meter .Every place should have this policy its a free country if you can do it why not.In my area the whole house MUST be done in EMT WITH 4 IN SQUARE 1900 BOXES any thing outside and whole service runs MUST be RIGID METAL CONDUIT. IF YOU DONT DO IT IN CONDUIT YOU MIGHT AS WELL NO DO IT. I LOVE IT ITS THE BEST.God i wish we had these meter sockets like in your video they are the best.
Then why can;t we have our own medical care and why do we need expensive care from a Lawyer to defend us. If youtube is the way of schooling in the future what is the point of licensing and college or trade school. LOOK, just because some HO or DYI can do his or his buddies service does not make us on the same level playing field. You have to say that you can open your doors as a Pro and encounter any thing that is thrown at you when you pick up the phone. My concern is that when they go to sell the home to make a PROFIT then why is it any different for them to make a LOT OF MONEY OFF OF THE NEXT FAMILY WHO HAS TO HAVE A LOAN ON THEIR CRAPY INSTALL?
@@Petersonelectricllc Yes health insurance is bad corporate America doesnt care any more every one cares only about them selves [ money] My subdivision was done by union electricians with all that schooling ect they never used PENATROX a lot of those services burned up not to mention they double locknuted at the panel but PUT THE METER SOCKETS ON WITH ONLY ONE LOCKNUT NO LOCKNUT BEHIND IT all that schooling THIS IS BAD WORK. When i was young home owner had the permit just started my job with the company i work fore when i completed the job the inspector came and tested every outlet and said you didnt have to put gfi outlets in the kitchen they didnt use the 1986 code yet I WASNT LICENSED YET I wasnt expecting this the inspector said he hasnt seen a job this good in a long time I TOOK THE OWNER OF COMPANY I WORK FORE HE SAID THE WORK WAS GOOD. Im now disabled can only work fore so many days. I keep my license my nephew really needs me right now he got an FHA & private home inspector theirs all kinds of romex and live wires hanging down in the laundry room my brothers paying fore the materials MY LABOR IS FREE OF CHARGE MATT has THREE BOYS TO FEED. This is the only reason im on this earth. I love doing electric work & my pipe & wire community .I only use SQURE D QO PIGTAILED AFCI [no plug on neutrals fore me] if money is tight SIEMENS with COPPER BUSS. My grandfather [1950s] wired homes under home owner permits with out this those people could have NEVER OWNED HOMES [money] My grandfather had a SPECIAL GIFT. IM FOLLOWING IN HIS FOOT STEPS. youtube is going away my brother told me a lot of videos are going to be deleted [money] I have seen licensed electricians do some very bad work all that schooling ect. Youve got to understand there are some VERY GIFTED INDIVIDUALS OUT THERE im not saying im one.. Other than doing electrical work im not happy with the world i live in ME GENERATION EVERY ONE ONLY THINKS OF THEM SELVES LOOK AT THE SUICIDE RATE A LOT OF PEOPLE JUMP IN FRONT OF TRAINS NEAR WERE I LIVE.
@@Petersonelectricllc Try to buy an appliance that lasts more that 5-7 years remember MAYTAG it was a legend thats no more. America used to mean quality & pride accept fore zinsco & fpe I WAS PERSONALLY INVOLVED IN PUTTING FEDERAL PACIFIC UNDER AND HAVE NO REMORSE THEY CHEATED UL[ no blow breakers. Im a huge believer in quality now i drive a 2015 Toyota rav4 le they have a great reputation. I loved that meter socket in your video THATS QUALITY equipment I want AMERICA TO BE WHAT AMERICA ONCE STOOD FORE QUALITY PRODUCTS THAT LAST like in the good old days 60s,70s,80s. I use no 3 fore 100 amp 3/0 fore 200 amp COPPER neutrals have to be the same size its code hear I HATE ALUMINUM BETWEEN THE METER & PANEL I dont care if i can use it I WONT COPPER ONLY.
@@davefranz8766 I am very glad you said that about Rav4, I almost bought that last month and instead bought my son and wife to share a Toyota Corolla Hatchback. I am praying it is a good vehicle. Glad to hear someone cares more about quality in this field than the almighty dollar! What happened with you helping expose the FPE non-UL listing. ?
@@davefranz8766 Thanks, this is what the fields are about, passing on the wisdom and knowledge to our children. The old Psalms and Proverbs of the Word of God.
Nah its not even a quarter of the cost just for material if you do it yourself yall just try to get over on people who dont know better an it seems scary i got a quote from an electrician for 3000 did it myself an git a state inspection for under 500 get the fuck out of here with that shit ever since i started construction at 18 i disliked electricians cocky arrogant an never clean up after yourself
wow!! if a homeowner tried that in my state they would probably be arrested lol....one thing to change a receptacle or install a GFI..leave the real serious stuff to the pros..that have the most recent knowledge and the insurance.
HUM. PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid Break down 25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250 5 x $70 DUALS each = $350 1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175 1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300 1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125 mis other breakers non afci = $75 fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50 Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150 Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135 Permit = $125 City Disconnect power fee = $190 Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25 _________________________________________________+ $2,950.00 total X .09% taxes +265 ______________ $3,215.00 X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965 +$965 _________________ $4,180.00 + $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer. _________________ $5,380.00 + $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business. _________________ $7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
HUM. PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid Break down 25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250 5 x $70 DUALS each = $350 1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175 1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300 1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125 mis other breakers non afci = $75 fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50 Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150 Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135 Permit = $125 City Disconnect power fee = $190 Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25 _________________________________________________+ $2,950.00 total X .09% taxes +265 ______________ $3,215.00 X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965 +$965 _________________ $4,180.00 + $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer. _________________ $5,380.00 + $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business. _________________ $7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
Thanks for watching, the sad thing about some of these people is that they do not know what can hurt them or the future home buyers to come on that property.
HUM. PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid Break down 25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250 5 x $70 DUALS each = $350 1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175 1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300 1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125 mis other breakers non afci = $75 fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50 Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150 Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135 Permit = $125 City Disconnect power fee = $190 Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25 _________________________________________________+ $2,950.00 total X .09% taxes +265 ______________ $3,215.00 X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965 +$965 _________________ $4,180.00 + $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer. _________________ $5,380.00 + $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business. _________________ $7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
Some people can't afford a professional so they try to do it themselves here you come along mad that he couldn't afford somebody call the inspector on them and try to get him red tagged if you really cared you would have fixed the job for him for free and then made a show about it now people would appreciate it that
That's not all we did JOKER> Panel inside , AFCI, Main all in one disconnect with by-pass lever outside and trace the house and oh YAH< ground the service 250.50- 250.53 - Your make up is overpriced LOL
It takes us 4 to 5 years of trade school to get are license to be able to preform a installation like this and for some that has no background in the electrical field to just watch a video on you tude and say they could do it thaats a slap on our faces as electricians . And 8,000 man hours of put in work for are trade to qualify to be able to take are journeymans test i saw srew you home owners
Peterson Electric not necessarily. A mans house is his. If he wants to do his own then that’s his choice. Only the government made to where people needed licensed workers.
@@sergioperez5730 True, but more and more AHJ's in big cities are forcing people to use electrical contractors on the service equipment, I think that is wise, if you have never dwelt with Power Providers, why start now and buy tools you'll never use again.
So my question is do you tell professionals like dentists, doctors, chiropractors and other pros that they have done a bad job, or misdiagnosed? Do you try to beat them up on price yet their fees can be through the roof for the 98% population who can not afford health care. If you City or state allow you to wire then this is your shot to do so, I just would never buy a home from a home owner that is not licensed in all fields. Inspectors out here expect the pro electrician to be perfect, won’t give us advise and flunk is again and again to “break us in”. Yet, when I have followed up on bids that were done for FREE, we find out the HO was just taking our knowledge for their agenda to do this their self. If I choose to become an inspector, I will make it harder on HO and will help the contractor out more, I am tired of city and county and state inspectors walking HO through projects to make it easier on the tax payer. Yet when they sell their gone they are trying to get their huge profit off of the next 1st time home buyer that gets schooled by crappy workmanship. There is not enough mandates that protect us pros that are dedicated over their life time. I have been in the industry 23 years and I do not know everything, but you trying to compare yourself to a professional is not wise
HUM. PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid Break down 25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250 5 x $70 DUALS each = $350 1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175 1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300 1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125 mis other breakers non afci = $75 fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50 Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150 Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135 Permit = $125 City Disconnect power fee = $190 Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25 _________________________________________________+ $2,950.00 total X .09% taxes +265 ______________ $3,215.00 X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965 +$965 _________________ $4,180.00 + $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer. _________________ $5,380.00 + $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business. _________________ $7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices. WOW! I sure made a lot on this JOB!!!! NOT> So, before you go and blast us on youtube, know the facts.
HUM. PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid Break down 25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250 5 x $70 DUALS each = $350 1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175 1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300 1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125 mis other breakers non afci = $75 fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50 Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150 Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135 Permit = $125 City Disconnect power fee = $190 Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25 _________________________________________________+ $2,950.00 total X .09% taxes +265 ______________ $3,215.00 X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965 +$965 _________________ $4,180.00 + $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer. _________________ $5,380.00 + $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business. _________________ $7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices. WOW! I sure made a lot on this JOB!!!! NOT> So, before you go and blast us on youtube, know the facts.
as a home owner i did all my own work and the state does the inspections. my service provider also does not allow bypass levers on residential service. i put in a 320 panel on the pump house and it feeds 2 200 amp sub panels for the house and the shop. i also did all the work for my temp service and panel for construction, and wired all the shop/house. it's not rocket science but it seems there are a lot of idiots out there.
lol you're so cool dude
@@GrizzlyWang aint so cool
I see no problem with a homeowner installing things, that is as long as they know what they are doing and pass the code. As for me I can do the work, but the hardest thing would be the physical work. The key thing is that the main breaker is sized according to the feeder wires. My home is from the 1950s/1960's and it has a 60A panel. Perhaps that 100Amp is on new construction. I would want to do it properly, and it is not that hard to do it right. However most people would not do things like me, and that is so I will not have possible problems in the future. Too many people don't know even how to wire an outlet correctly. Also something that many including electricians don't do, and that is oversize wires when the run is longer. This prevents problems in the future with motors not starting properly. The more experienced electricians will say something about this when they spot it, but many of the newer ones will not.
Also just because something is code does not mean that it is a good idea, one such thing is using the conduit as a ground. I know it costs a little more to run another wire, but it is much safer in the long run. Also I will say that code is the minimum that is allowed, and that it is better to always exceed that instead of going for what the code will allow. I say this as an engineer, and quite often I am amazed at what is allowable. One thing on conduit, I like to go a little bigger such as if there is room and I might in the future what to possibly do something else will run 3/4 instead of 1/2. However to run outside lights 1/2" is great. Can't damage it very easily, and the most important outside is keeping things sealed from the elements such as rain and keeping the bugs and mice out.
So where in the 2017 NEC is the codes requiring the voltage drop, or does is it not a code?
where is the requirements in the code on the single family dwelling?
where is the service size (min) for the other structures and what is the requirement when you are installing 110v to 220v?
It maybe easy to you to do some of these things, but if you do not do this for a living and every three years upgrade your license and take your on going CEU of educations and keeping this logged with DORA, than there are many items that you are probably missing. Just because a local inspector looks at a HO work, does not mean they cannot miss things or are not truly an electrical inspector, some are plumbing trades men and they get trained to look for the most common mistakes. Huge Difference. I do agree that the conduit should not be always allowed without an EGC.
Where is this in the code for conduit,? There are many different piping systems and they all can be called conduit.
That is in article NEC Section 240-3 , NEC article 210-19, Look at section 215 as well, and can be found at www.fs.fed.us/database/acad/elec/greenbook/3_basicdesigns.pdf, and I have read that there are some that say it is suggested and others say mandatory. Such as a 3% drop between circuits, and a maximum of 5 % drop from the main source (less is better), according to the 1999 code and later. Most of this has to do with motors, and in a home that would be the HVAC, Well Pump, Garbage Disposal, Trash Compactors, Refrigerators/ freezers, and so forth. Basically this is because on any motor the starting current and running current increases with a decrease in voltage that is applied to a motor. I have seen this so bad in some situations that a soft start is installed in industrial equipment (as I have installed a few, where there is a load attached to the motor such as a blower or pump). Also helpful is another site: ewh.ieee.org/r3/atlanta/ias/2016-2017_Presentations/2017-03-09_IEEE%20Atl_RB_NEC2017.pdf As I was saying this has to with mostly motors, and this is the primary largest thing that will be found in residential, but you will find that some people have welders in the home as well (however welders only have a surge when striking the arc, motors are only when starting). As an example if you have someone that wants to install an air compressor, if the unloader fails (this is used to relieve the pressure from the compressor so that there is a minimum load on the unit for starting, it can be a valve in line with the compressor attached to the tank or a hose connected to the pressure switch) and their is 120psi (as an example) on the exhaust valves it will overload the circuit, and even when an air compressor is working properly they do have a large starting current. The sections 240, 210 and 215 apply to this situation. I had to look this up as I usually don't go to the book, but use my working knowledge of equipment when sizing wiring and from that determine what is safe. However when someone does not know how the equipment works, or what is required it is always best to use the code as a minimum. Myself and others oversize things and usually call it a fudge factor, and throw it in to be safe. That is because of our knowledge of the equipment we know what is needed, but because there are many that do not have our background that this has been added to the code for safety. Please keep in mind that a motor often draws 3 to 5 times the rated current when starting and I have seen them draw much more when a starting capacitor is bad. This you will find in residential, as starting capacitors are used on single phase equipment. Run capacitors as well. In industrial when 3 phase is available a start or run capacitor is not needed, but will be found on cooling fans inside equipment.
HUM.
PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid
Break down
25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250
5 x $70 DUALS each = $350
1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175
1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300
1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125
mis other breakers non afci = $75
fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50
Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150
Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135
Permit = $125
City Disconnect power fee = $190
Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25
_________________________________________________+
$2,950.00 total
X .09% taxes
+265
______________
$3,215.00
X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965
+$965
_________________
$4,180.00
+ $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer.
_________________
$5,380.00
+ $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business.
_________________
$7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
WOW! I sure made a lot on this JOB!!!! NOT> So, before you go and blast us on youtube, know the facts.
In Michigan single family home can have 2 meters which is for main house and then what we call an interuptable for you A/C system
My panel on my rental fried on the 4th of July. Electrician wanted $10K to fix it. A friend knew an old dude that would swap it out live for $800. I bought the panel from HD, stood behind him with a 2x4 as he used cardboard and tape to isolate the power and do the swap. It was awesome. DIY is America and the American dream.
An old guy as in he had been doing electrical for 40+ years or old as in make the old guy do it, he's lived his life long enough and if someone has to go let it be him lol?
@@sandollor He was old and probably worked for 40 years. Maybe he also felt like he had lived long enough too.
@@bubbadoright9271 every electrician at some point of their life have had work on a live panel as they should if their specialized field is dealing in residential homes. Typical cost of material and labor is or and depending of the situation would be around $1000-$2000.
$10,000 is a rough in for a small home.. but for 800 dollars your either one of those retard homeowners but I won't judge.
What was the 2x4 for?
He throws these numbers around and wonders why someone tries it themselves.
What is that silver lever on the right for?
I just put a 2nd meter base on my property. It is for a farm building and when I want to get a permit they told me my farm exempt permit for the structure covers the electric also so no permit needed and I'm having the utility company bring me 400 Amos. They are doing parallel 200 amps. Idk why they didn't just do a single 400. This is semi temporary until I can afford it get 3 phase brought from the other side of the street
Im our area a homeowner can pull a permit for pretty much any kind of work but must meet same code standards as a contractor . This is where the inspector should be held liable if he passed the install and things werent to code . I am a licensed electrician here in va and have seen shoddy work both from homeowners as well as contractors but both must be inspected and meet the same codes regardless and i think an inspector should be as strict on either one .
HUM.
PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid
Break down
25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250
5 x $70 DUALS each = $350
1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175
1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300
1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125
mis other breakers non afci = $75
fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50
Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150
Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135
Permit = $125
City Disconnect power fee = $190
Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25
_________________________________________________+
$2,950.00 total
X .09% taxes
+265
______________
$3,215.00
X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965
+$965
_________________
$4,180.00
+ $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer.
_________________
$5,380.00
+ $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business.
_________________
$7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
Who changes the underground conduit ?
I am having a problem with the metal square piece that holds the ground wire into the meter box. 200 amp one. The screw to attach it is too small.
How do you attach that piece to the inside? The backing it connects onto is also plastic.
Makes no sense.
friend what can be done with the wires that have ground
The inspectors should hold everyone to the same code, just as you stated. If they did that then you would have no reason to discourage homeowners from doing their own work, unless you are interested in not losing business. Also, I don't believe for a moment that when you have a leaky faucet that you are calling in a plumber for that and paying them contractor rates. I also don't believe that you would entertain a plumber telling you that you can't repair that faucet unless you have 20 years of experience. Yes, a service change is a bigger job than the faucet however the point still stands.
YOU CAN DO WHAT EVER YOU WANT IN YOUR OWN HOME, I just think that when you go to sell it, you should be held at the same standard as a contractor or you do not get to sell your home. Ha, that is what happens to us as contractors.
HUM.
PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid
Break down
25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250
5 x $70 DUALS each = $350
1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175
1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300
1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125
mis other breakers non afci = $75
fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50
Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150
Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135
Permit = $125
City Disconnect power fee = $190
Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25
_________________________________________________+
$2,950.00 total
X .09% taxes
+265
______________
$3,215.00
X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965
+$965
_________________
$4,180.00
+ $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer.
_________________
$5,380.00
+ $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business.
_________________
$7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
WOW! I sure made a lot on this JOB!!!! NOT> So, before you go and blast us on youtube, know the facts.
I have watched alot of your videos, mainly came across it because I am dealing with removing the old knob and tube wiring and I never had to deal with it untill I bought my house, I like how you point out how incompatant home owners and dyi'ers are trying to save a dime but 10-40 years down the road it causes issues. I started remodling a bedroom because I have a child on the way and noticed knob and tube supplies majority of the house on two circuits. I see alot of stuff that shouldn't be done and I can relate.
I did go to Alfred state College in New York for electrical construction and maitenance but only finished the residential and commercial, not hazardous location and industrial. I like your work good job
Thanks for watching. I would use a wiggy in the attic and see if the old Knob&2 is still live. If so then maybe consider using AFCI breakers and fishing some NM. I understand your schooling, I never had the chance to get in to industrial work, just hard and soft commercial work as well as customer and log homes. I personally do not think anyone can see it all, the field is TOO large. Cheers!
@@Petersonelectricllc I don't have an accessable attic but it looks like they ran the circuits through the 2nd floor, floor joists right now Im working on my baby room and I can access the kitchen, dining room from above. Unfortunately they are both drop ceilings with those cheap square ceiling tiles.
Having seen more electrical contractors incorrectly grounding meter enclosure, did notice you did it correctly- your one of the few
Thanks for watching. This is our utility standards here in CO
Ok, are you an inspector? Meter enclosures are to be determined on how to ground based on the utility standards. I have one electrical service provider that wants a ground bushing grounded and another one that says no.
Seen 2- 200 amp service on a BIG house buddy of mine ,agree never would do a service change I like neat panels plus all the shit that needs to be done right .I did a 100 amp to 200 amp upgrade underground cable cost around $2,500.00 around early 2000 time frame KC area .
I am a apprentice electrician on the path of getting my license now and I see no problem with a homeowner changing their own service or doing any upgrades if they go to the permit office in the county that they stay in pull the permit install the equipment and the inspector comes out and passes it its no different than a licensed electrician pulling the permit and installing the equipment because at the end of the day the inspector has to give the okay on it no matter if you are a homeowner or a licensed electrician because either one of them can make a mistake I feel like if they just let licensed electricians do all the work and not a homeowner that can the price of work with just be crazy a licensed electrician with no the only he could do the work and could charge whatever he wanted to
I would say two things to you, 1st. why are you evening getting a license? and 2nd. you have not had 20 years of seeing HO wiring and them making a profit when they sell this house and the look in the eye of the next 1st time home buyer and the sadness of getting the news of the bad wiring. If a HO is good enough to pass a one time inspection that does not make him or her an electrician. Yes, I agree that some shops have sub-pair work to an expensive price, but if they know their code and they are every three years attending schooling for their PEU's than i have to say this is total worth it to pay for a licensed shop. OH YAH, There are some really lazy and uneducated inspectors out there, and yet some good one's too.
Note: The last two times i had a root canal, this Dr. made $2,900 off of me out side of my insurance and they (my insurance) then paid another $3,400 of the bill. SO $6,500 FOR AN HOUR OF WORK?
Any business owner has to know their overhead and what it takes to break even every month, yet fighting the tax laws on a small business for state and federal, and yet trying to grow to hire an "APPRENTICE" (such as your self) to educate them and send them out, and oh yah, don't forget you have to save for you own retirement, because there is no big company that is going to pay you for another 25 years of existence because your body can not handle the field past 50.
@@Petersonelectricllc lol on that note let's let our friends do heart surgery on us even thought they aren't licensed surgeons! I can't believe some of these "electricians" are saying home-owners should touch their own wiring. Have some pride about our trade! Great video!
3rd term IBEW apprentice
@@LotusEater9311 Thanks for watching, I do not understand these guys mentality. If they do not run a business they have NO IDEA what it takes on the finical side of the overhead; advertisement, permit, licensing, ongoing PDE's classes, books, memberships, van payments, if you run out of a commercial building, personal overhead for your family, maintenance on trucks, gas, business insurance, personal insurance, taxes, state and federal, parts and many other things, OH YAH your personal 401k and kids, yah de yah de and on and on. Every business must try to make a 20% profit for the next year of it's dollar value going down. Most of all we have to know our competitions pricing. Not sure why people do not question health or other fees when they are flying or take their family on vacation.
@@Petersonelectricllc I'm going to subscribe! After aquiring my certificate I'm hoping to go for my Master license to open a business in the future. Our code here in Canada is a little different, but the knowledge on your channel is still valuable ! Cheers
@@LotusEater9311 Could not agree more. Keep up the good work, this trade is only for the strong!
I'm a graduate electrical engineer(retired). In my career I worked with electrical machinery(industrial),PLC, 120 KV insulator testing lab, power station etc. One thing I marked that, contactors are always talking about code, code and code. Never talk about electrical hazards or engineering formula. Main cause of electrical failure is not following the engineering formula/loose connection/miscalculate the load etc. I respect the professional contractor's work but I think codes need to be flexible as long as it does not create hazard or unsafe condition. In NEC, there are so many codes are just cosmetic, in other words contractor's money making tool.
We get paid when it passes code so..... that ain't changing
Mr Hanson you are correct! This little foul mouth weasal is so afraid he might loose some business telling folks they can't do their own work. Hell I've done many upgrading to 200 Amp Panels and Sub Panels AND getting my own permit's. Anybody can purchase the NEC code book and if you can read and have the mechanical experience you can do this for a fraction of Peterson Electric. I get permits and have never had a failed inspection. I have done HVAC work for 40 years and anyone who can turn a screwdriver can do an upgrade panel on their home unless you listen to this little shit talk!
Most of the code is there because something that didn't meet those standards caused a fire... or electrocution.
We legislate based on protecting the stupidest person you can find.
This is why we need a law telling people not to watch TV while they drive.
(That one has been around for over 40 years. It was first enacted not too long after the first battery operated portable TVs were sold.)
As someone who worked in the electrical trade over 40 yrs i can honestly say most engineers don't actually know the first thing about actually performing work in the field and most have never actually installed any type of equipment ever ! Yet they always seem to think they know more than people who have actually work as a contractor for many years. Engineers are good at what they were trained in engineering but not much else in my experience.
@@gregmartin1757 Engineers for sure know more than you do; 40yrs or 140. Anyone can learn how to play with industrial legos... not everyone can design the legos and the instructions.
Hey , enjoyed the video, trying NOT to do what that guy did in Denver, where they passed him. I am trying to get this straight, so when my main meter was moved about 30 feet away, they added a real small 6X9" separate box with the drop and meter sitting above that box. So if I upgrade to a 200 amp panel, should I place it right after the meter and drop? Or at the original main house panel location about 30 feet away? Thank You appreciate the video and info Raul PHX metro
GUARDING BY ELEVATION FOR 600- VOLT CIRCUIT REQUIRES AN ELEVATION OF?
Brilliant.. Your knowledge is electrifying..
Where is the main breaker?
It's more up to the power company. Some power companies want a premium and some don't need one they will just come out cut power let you change out what you need to and tell you to call them when you are done
I wish more people understood this instead of BLOWING ME up online over a good video. LOL
Mmmm with those numbers $$$ are you really surprise why homeowners opt to try and do it themselves 😆. Respect to you Journey man who have put the time and effort in 👏🏾
i think if electricians didn't charge lawyer rates people won't need to DIY it. days work for a days pay is fair. but a months pay for a days work, is what makes people take it on themselves
So this is your assumption. Do you go the the bank and tell them that a 30 yr loan is silly, or you save and go to Vegas and pay too much, or you go to your boss and say I sound be paid more because I showed up. If you had any clue what it costs to run a small business today your opinion would be different. Good Luck!
@@Petersonelectricllc I do own a small business, and do hire other contractors, this is why i made the comment. I do not hire guys that think their time is over valued. It makes no sence to be a dyi-er if the rates are fair. the by product is more ppl think, not worth it to do it myself. One contractor quotes me 10K to swap a 3ton heat pump a days work. I say woooh. I go buy the condensor 2k line sets $100 and pay a trained tech $1000 for the day which is a good rate. 7500 labor for one day is wacko, but they get it. which is why i took it into my own hands just like homeowners do. you mention they should not let homeowners do proffessinal work. I've learned they won't if it's not worth it to do so, is my point
@@Petersonelectricllc , i agree with that, if they want to take it on, then they should also take on all the responcibility and be held to the same standards as experienced tradesman, with no double standards. usually the homeowner standard of approval is good enough, and likely NOT.
@@scottclementbuilt7213 I agree that there are electricians that do bad work in my area, I catch it all of the time. I saw one last year that blew my mind, they did a bid for S$7,000 to rewire the small two bedroom, one bath bungalow and when we got there to look at it, it had thwn wires lose, grey and black bx with knob-tube wiring and white jacket and yellow jacket on the # 12. This showed me 7 different remodels and all was accessible from the attic. There was a lower ceiling dropped back in the 80's, not sure why they went from 10' to 8' ceilings, which made the remodel hard. They asked me what was to be done, pretty much start from scratch and take this company to court. I did not charge for a two hours to walk through that was suppose to be a service call for lights flickering. I personally did not want to charge them for their troubles. I know of this company in town and was sadden to even think I helped them with a heads up on another job. I will make certain if i hear I am biding against them to warn the potential customers.
BTY, they asked me how much to rewire the house correctly, including the overhead service change that was BS with only one AFCI breaker, I told them $12k. The other company was too low on the remodel (attic work and walls) and the other company before them, who did bad work on the service, was making many mistakes on the mast and meter along with keeping a horribly small old panel.
How long will the electricity be off during this upgrade?
Depends, if your service comes from overhead or underground.
Nice explanation on fees , very important when in the electrical contracting business, the costumer needs to know truthfullly all fees prior, this guy knows he's ****
Hi….thank you for taking the time to make this. I will be upgrading service to 320 amp from 125 amp to feed two 200 amp panels here very soon. I live in the county outside of Durango…I was told all electrical inspections are done by state inspectors in Colorado? Or is that only in LaPlata County?
I appreciate your experience….and am on the fence on whether I will do it myself or hire it out. Ideally, I would like to hire a local electrician to consult and supervise my work. Hoping I can find someone local willing to do that….
I agree us DIYers should not do the 100 to 200 amp. The energy company said that they handle the exterior, or at least that's how I heard it. When I called the inspector for my 200amp panel that I did, I was schooled. So now I'm calling in an electrician that has been inspected by this inspector so he'll know what to expect. Inspector was more than nice in helping me. Had I known all the work needed, I would have had the electrician do all aspects of this job. It would have been well worth the money.
Lol I went on a service call the other day and this dude had a 400 amp main with a couple of subpanels.. The feeders for both of the subpanels were double tapped on the lugs at the main panel and there were no ground wires pulled. When I asked the guy about it he said that it “passed inspection”. I told him that was bullshit and there was no way it could’ve but now I’m not so sure.
Right off the bat, my power company would fail that meter the way it is. They do not want the feed coming up on the handle side of the meter. I actually had to redo it which was ridiculous. They also do not want the feed wires crossing any of the load wires.
In Oklahoma we can set up our own service (outside of city limits) without permits or inspectors - I've done it several times, but fortunately the POCO has a very complete and thorough guide with a parts list for setting them up.
HUM.
PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid
Break down
25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250
5 x $70 DUALS each = $350
1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175
1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300
1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125
mis other breakers non afci = $75
fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50
Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150
Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135
Permit = $125
City Disconnect power fee = $190
Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25
_________________________________________________+
$2,950.00 total
X .09% taxes
+265
______________
$3,215.00
X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965
+$965
_________________
$4,180.00
+ $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer.
_________________
$5,380.00
+ $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business.
_________________
$7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
I spent a lot of time at coffee shops just studying over 2000 codes. A bit of the book nerd. Once you understand how the code breaks down become simpler, plus all her continued education helps every three years. Thanks for watching
Bragging about "code, code, code, we meet code" is like bragging about passing class with a D. Congratulations, you meet the lowest possible standard. "Homeowner" is not a dirty word. I always laugh about these tradesmen talking about "homeowners" like they are just too stupid to do things correctly while being completely oblivious that they are doing a job that only required OJT and a GED.
@@brandondoty9887 you really brushed over the 7 years of on the job training eh
Saw the 511 hat and knew I was in the right place...🇺🇸
HUM.
PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid
Break down
25 x $50 AFCI each = $1,250
5 x $70 DUALS each = $350
1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175
1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300
1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125
mis other breakers non afci = $75
fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50
Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150
Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135
Permit = $125
City Disconnect power fee = $190
Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25
_________________________________________________+
$2,950.00 total
X .09% taxes
+265
______________
$3,215.00
X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965
+$965
_________________
$4,180.00
+ $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer.
_________________
$5,380.00
+ $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business.
_________________
$7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
We have no bypass lever in pa or really enforce the ground block for communications. I still put them
In and out my ground wire in pvc to the ground but there no Lisense to be an electrician in pa homeowners can do anything as long as the inspector passes it
Yah, I do not agree with HO working on their own homes, they just end up making serious mistakes and than sell their home and make a "HUGE" profit (especially in CO) and the next first time buyer gets the new problems. I have tried voicing my opinions about this changing with DORA and they said that they can't do anything. When I have found out city inspectors have advised HO or walked them through their failing inspections, I call them out and leave them VM.
Each state has it's own regulations, yet somethings are ok in CO and yet not legal in other states or the Government's Eyes, for example, WEED!
HUM.
PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid
Break down
25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250
5 x $70 DUALS each = $350
1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175
1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300
1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125
mis other breakers non afci = $75
fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50
Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150
Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135
Permit = $125
City Disconnect power fee = $190
Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25
_________________________________________________+
$2,950.00 total
X .09% taxes
+265
______________
$3,215.00
X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965
+$965
_________________
$4,180.00
+ $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer.
_________________
$5,380.00
+ $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business.
_________________
$7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
WOW! I sure made a lot on this JOB!!!! NOT> So, before you go and blast us on youtube, know the facts.
Electricians get paid for what they know, not what they do. Knowledge is expensive.
Work is hard too.
Great video
Hey man how is it that you remember all the codes?
Christopher Ocampo it's called editing and reviewing your videos. and doing your homework for each particular job site.
Looks nice but I'd question the method into which you bonded your bonded your #4 bare and your explanation of why a bonding bushing is required.but I am from florida.
HUM.
PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid
Break down
25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250
5 x $70 DUALS each = $350
1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175
1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300
1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125
mis other breakers non afci = $75
fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50
Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150
Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135
Permit = $125
City Disconnect power fee = $190
Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25
_________________________________________________+
$2,950.00 total
X .09% taxes
+265
______________
$3,215.00
X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965
+$965
_________________
$4,180.00
+ $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer.
_________________
$5,380.00
+ $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business.
_________________
$7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
@@Petersonelectricllc why did you have to ground the service which already is grounded since its a underground service.
I am not allowed out here to BOND a #4 or #6 to the inside meter can, PER POWER COMPANY's Policy. We were only allowed to us a Bond Bushing, back to back. This is based on article 312 and 314 under cabinets and boxes. Basically because I have an "E" and "C" concentric knock outs. I have many of times ask them to allow us to bond next to the Neutral on the line side. They said this method has changed so there is Less Liability for them, encase of a FAULT AIC backwards on the transformer. Good Question, thanks for watching.
Hey I’m building a new home, can you run 320amp wire from transformer to 200amp meter and later if I build a separate garage upgrade the meter panel?
YOU CAN WIRE A 320 AMP METER ONCE ON YOUR PROPERTY AND THEN DO A FEED THROUGH LUG AT 200 AMPS.
i just found a 400 amp meter socket breaker service entrance after peterson suggested the 320 amp to 2 200 amp panels its also at the homedepot for same price but you can always just search 400 and up amp meter service entrancies be amazed whats out there www.amazon.com/Siemens-MM0404L1400RLM-400-Amp-Combination-Ringless/dp/B008KMFNG6/ref=asc_df_B008KMFNG6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194019628201&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4673543371372033662&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002292&hvtargid=pla-315555428305&psc=1
wizard3z castor you know it’s still what Peterson told you. A 320a meter just with a 8 space panel on it
not bad bro allot of good info
Best panel service video out of the 100 I watched
Thanks
Are you worth $100 an hour $200 per hour $300 per hour $400 per hour $2800 to do anything to an upgrade is ridiculous that is way people do it themselves
Yes, we're easily worth over $100 an hour, and that total amount is not labor only, that's the devices & material too. Obviously, you only pay this rate to a JW who knows what he's doing so that your home and tenants are safe. DIY, nothing wrong with that but make no mistake, if you mess up you can kill yourself or someone around.
Thank God we live in America.
I disagree! Many of these so called professional electricians do makeshift work but still charge a fortune. This is where the inspector comes in. If someone, anyone, wires a house or box it should be inspected by the inspector and as far as I know, the utility company will not turn on the electricity unless it has the inspector ok. I am not a professional electrician but I am an electronics technician. A lot of the professional electricians do not really understand what they are doing. I built my homes, two of them entirely myself and it saved me a fortune. I wired and plumbed both of them. I do have a code book. And I have seen some unbelievably dangerous home wiring. But no homeowner should be barred from doing his own wiring. But he should be looked at closely by the inspector.
I am glad you know how to read a code book, but unless you have study this field and every three years take your PEU' credits, than I do not think that you can compare yourself with a qualified electrician. I do agree that there are a lot of electricians that make mistakes, but that is part to do with the electrical schooling. Your electronics degree and or cert. is good for it's purpose, but I personally would NEVER buy a home from a guy that wired it as a HO. Not sure what your soap box is about.
@@Petersonelectricllc My soap box is about people who try to prevent a man from wiring his own home. They do this so they get more business. They protect their own. HVAC installers are the worst. There are certainly some home owners who create dangerous situations but some professionals do too. I walked into a house that a friend had just bought and the wiring was enough to make you shudder. The former owner had added lights and outlets in the basement and created his workshop. A total fire hazard and I removed it all out immediately.
@@ronhat-nx6yq So the next time your flying somewhere be sure to tell the captain that you want to save money and your going to fly there. Everyone has to make a living, I do not think it is wrong for a contractor to do his work and be rewarded if he knows his field. Paying a fortune, is when I spent $3,500 for a root canal that took him 30 min.
Well said
@@ronhat-nx6yq i agree hvac guys are the worst. they will oversize everything and when their brains stop working and cant figure out a proper way to get a pipe run to a difficult place, than they undersize the pipe. Electricians are 50/50, most cut corners and cant even figure out proper wire sizing for the main by including voltage drop. it is funny listening to their excuses. i wired my home as well, the inspector asked me probably about 15 times if this was my first house, and every time i told him yes. He said if i was an electrician he would recommend me to everybody in my town. Everytime i had a doubt i just called one of the electrical inspectors and asked him what is the code for that. Also i ran all 12/2 for the receptacles and did not take short cut by just pushing the wire end in the back of the receptacles, did it the proper way by making the loop in the proper direction and screwing it down. Also buying the proper lugs to go down a couple of sizes to fit the 200 amp breaker. Homeowners should be able to do their own wiring
It is not "alot" of knowledge... please! Get an updated Code book and use "common" sense people.
Electrical work is not rocket science, the price a contractor charge to replace a box like that is insane. Unfortunately they do get a lot of ppl who's not handy at all and have no choice but to pay that fortune. I've seen a lot of work done by h.o looking a lot better than contractors work. I Remember about 6 years ago I got a quote from 2 contractors to do alumiconn connectors on this 1800sf home. One charged $10.200 the other one was $9.700. I spend $600 in parts and 3 days of work and done it myself, passed inspection
Good for you. Why don't you put in your time then. Just because you worked on your home does not make you a pro. Work in 400 homes and businesses every year and see the bad wiring and failed wiring and what ever is thrown at you and after twenty years then you can say you are becoming a wireman. If you can pull a tooth does it make you a dentist, No.
WOW! you know how to do one thing, and yet you are more experienced than all of us licensed guys. REALLY no need to brag on your side.
HUM.
PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid
Break down
25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250
5 x $70 DUALS each = $350
1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175
1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300
1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125
mis other breakers non afci = $75
fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50
Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150
Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135
Permit = $125
City Disconnect power fee = $190
Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25
_________________________________________________+
$2,950.00 total
X .09% taxes
+265
______________
$3,215.00
X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965
+$965
_________________
$4,180.00
+ $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer.
_________________
$5,380.00
+ $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business.
_________________
$7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
WOW! I sure made a lot on this JOB!!!! NOT> So, before you go and blast us on youtube, know the facts.
You are correct - Electrical is not rocket science. But it is also not something that any old Joe can or should do. Ya, you can change out a switch, breaker, outlet - and maybe even wire a new room or addition. And, you can flip through the code book and say you know what the code is. But, you should really leave the big stuff to the Licensed boys.
I myself am not an electrician, but have rewired many homes, added new rooms and major appliances, and yes, even read the code. I have a buddy who is a Master Electrician, and I have learned over the years that they are worth every penny when it comes to the big stuff. One thing I WILL NOT do is mess with the big black snake. Not because I can't, or I'm afraid. But because the consequences are too severe.
Ya, you can run the wire, hook up the panel, make it look pretty - and sure, it may all work when you flip the switch. But, is your family going to be the one's living in that house for the next 15yrs. There are many things the electrician knows that the average person, and the code book does not. Such as cable ratings, line drop, and most importantly - not what the code says you need to do, but knowing why this needs to be done and how it affects the performance and safety of the new service.
Leave the big stuff to the experts. This isn't a "Plug-n'Play" system like everything else we buy nowadays.
@@kenjones5321 every single house I flipped so far has electrical issues, most of them are subpanel with under rated wires, i think if u dont know the cable rating u shouldn't even be attempting to do any electrical work, number one cause of electrical fire are screws not tighten properly. Every state is different, prices and codes, but in fl where I am I think is ridiculous to pay almost $10k to add alumicon to a 1800sf home or $2200 to replace a subpanel box with only 2 30amp breakers.
Inspectors here won’t help at all. FPL won’t come out and kill the power. You have to work with live on their side.
HUM.
PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid
Break down
25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250
5 x $70 DUALS each = $350
1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175
1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300
1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125
mis other breakers non afci = $75
fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50
Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150
Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135
Permit = $125
City Disconnect power fee = $190
Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25
_________________________________________________+
$2,950.00 total
X .09% taxes
+265
______________
$3,215.00
X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965
+$965
_________________
$4,180.00
+ $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer.
_________________
$5,380.00
+ $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business.
_________________
$7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
People have a right to repair and work on their own property as long as it meets code, sounds like the inspector didn't do his/her job.
Had to have new service installed after a house fire. Electrician quoted me $5500 to salvage what was possible and tack together a new system. I did it myself for $800 will all new wire and components from the pole to, and including, new breaker boxes. Took me two full days but well worth the savings. It's not rocket science. Do your research and take your time if you DIY and you'll be fine. In my area, we still have the freedom to do our own building, no permission required from useless bureaucrats.
I loathe discouragement of homeowners doing their own work. I also equally despise homeowners being able to do sub-standard or non code compliant work. If a homeowner wants to take on this project themselves, and they are able to acquire and execute the level of knowledge/workmanship required to pass code, then they should be ENCOURAGED to do so. Sure not many homeowners fall into this category, but pushing to have all homeowners (even competent ones) unable to do their own work is sad.
Get over yourself bro! That $5000 in costs you're throwing around there is just why a lot of homeowners say bunk that. Your scare tactics and comments about building inspectors really annoys me. Most inspectors are a lot better than that. They will work with anybody making a genuine effort to get things right. And yeah, the taxpayer should be treated better than that. I've worked in heavy commercial construction for years with electricians. Half of them think they're gods. A little common sense goes a long way and now days you can learn anything on TH-cam. I've done my own electrical with my past 3 houses without a single issue. If I ran into an something I couldn't figure out I would just shoot a pic of my problem to one of the Sparky's with my cellphone and it was resolved. You're prob one of the reasons carpenters hate electricians.
This stuff isn’t hard you can take a test a become a licensed person to install these meter basses. There’s are a lot of people that can do this work. No big deal
Hi sir i want to join your group of electrician can you msgs for me?
4K my ass! ( pulling wire) Robbing Homeowners Blind!
DO A PRICE COUNT ON AFCI BREAKERS, I did a video to show the inside of the house. GO call the utility company in NOCO and complain about their on going fees monthly and their fees to touch anything. No, you just assume to sand blast us.
HUM.
PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid
Break down
25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250
5 x $70 DUALS each = $350
1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175
1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300
1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125
mis other breakers non afci = $75
fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50
Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150
Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135
Permit = $125
City Disconnect power fee = $190
Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25
_________________________________________________+
$2,950.00 total
X .09% taxes
+265
______________
$3,215.00
X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965
+$965
_________________
$4,180.00
+ $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer.
_________________
$5,380.00
+ $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business.
_________________
$7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
WOW! I sure made a lot on this JOB!!!! NOT> So, before you go and blast us on youtube, know the facts.
So this is not helpful info for those trying to learn or in my case atempting to refresh info.
Our videos are free and informational to the public with no charge other than I have to pay for them to be posted with my SCO guy, if you don’t like it quit watching me, or go to electrical school like I did for seven years, and 2 1/2 more years of appliance tech mission training, and now 15 years on my own. You guys need to quit complaining
WHY IS THIS NOT HELPFUL TO HEAR AND LEARN ABOUT YOUR OWN UTILITY STANDARDS. WHAT EVER! UNREAL PSSH.
I wish COMMONWEALTH EDISON required jaw clamping lever bypass fore resi the only one we have is the 320 class fore 400 amp service I HATE those stupid Milbank exterior reinforced clips THEY ARE JUNK THEY BURN UP .Im a licensed electrician my utility doesnt care if you cut the tag and pull the smart meter AS LONG AS YOUR NOT STEALING ELECTRICITY .My town will give the home owner a permit i saw my neighbor put in a 200 amp service he did a good job and yes he pulled the meter .Every place should have this policy its a free country if you can do it why not.In my area the whole house MUST be done in EMT WITH 4 IN SQUARE 1900 BOXES any thing outside and whole service runs MUST be RIGID METAL CONDUIT. IF YOU DONT DO IT IN CONDUIT YOU MIGHT AS WELL NO DO IT. I LOVE IT ITS THE BEST.God i wish we had these meter sockets like in your video they are the best.
Then why can;t we have our own medical care and why do we need expensive care from a Lawyer to defend us. If youtube is the way of schooling in the future what is the point of licensing and college or trade school. LOOK, just because some HO or DYI can do his or his buddies service does not make us on the same level playing field. You have to say that you can open your doors as a Pro and encounter any thing that is thrown at you when you pick up the phone.
My concern is that when they go to sell the home to make a PROFIT then why is it any different for them to make a LOT OF MONEY OFF OF THE NEXT FAMILY WHO HAS TO HAVE A LOAN ON THEIR CRAPY INSTALL?
@@Petersonelectricllc Yes health insurance is bad corporate America doesnt care any more every one cares only about them selves [ money] My subdivision was done by union electricians with all that schooling ect they never used PENATROX a lot of those services burned up not to mention they double locknuted at the panel but PUT THE METER SOCKETS ON WITH ONLY ONE LOCKNUT NO LOCKNUT BEHIND IT all that schooling THIS IS BAD WORK.
When i was young home owner had the permit just started my job with the company i work fore when i completed the job the inspector came and tested every outlet and said you didnt have to put gfi outlets in the kitchen they didnt use the 1986 code yet I WASNT LICENSED YET I wasnt expecting this the inspector said he hasnt seen a job this good in a long time I TOOK THE OWNER OF COMPANY I WORK FORE HE SAID THE WORK WAS GOOD. Im now disabled can only work fore so many days.
I keep my license my nephew really needs me right now he got an FHA & private home inspector theirs all kinds of romex and live wires hanging down in the laundry room my brothers paying fore the materials MY LABOR IS FREE OF CHARGE MATT has THREE BOYS TO FEED. This is the only reason im on this earth. I love doing electric work & my pipe & wire community .I only use SQURE D QO PIGTAILED AFCI [no plug on neutrals fore me] if money is tight SIEMENS with COPPER BUSS.
My grandfather [1950s] wired homes under home owner permits with out this those people could have NEVER OWNED HOMES [money] My grandfather had a SPECIAL GIFT. IM FOLLOWING IN HIS FOOT STEPS.
youtube is going away my brother told me a lot of videos are going to be deleted [money] I have seen licensed electricians do some very bad work all that schooling ect.
Youve got to understand there are some VERY GIFTED INDIVIDUALS OUT THERE im not saying im one..
Other than doing electrical work im not happy with the world i live in ME GENERATION EVERY ONE ONLY THINKS OF THEM SELVES LOOK AT THE SUICIDE RATE A LOT OF PEOPLE JUMP IN FRONT OF TRAINS NEAR WERE I LIVE.
@@Petersonelectricllc Try to buy an appliance that lasts more that 5-7 years remember MAYTAG it was a legend thats no more. America used to mean quality & pride accept fore zinsco & fpe I WAS PERSONALLY INVOLVED IN PUTTING FEDERAL PACIFIC UNDER AND HAVE NO REMORSE THEY CHEATED UL[ no blow breakers. Im a huge believer in quality now i drive a 2015 Toyota rav4 le they have a great reputation. I loved that meter socket in your video THATS QUALITY equipment I want AMERICA TO BE WHAT AMERICA ONCE STOOD FORE QUALITY PRODUCTS THAT LAST like in the good old days 60s,70s,80s. I use no 3 fore 100 amp 3/0 fore 200 amp COPPER neutrals have to be the same size its code hear I HATE ALUMINUM BETWEEN THE METER & PANEL I dont care if i can use it I WONT COPPER ONLY.
@@davefranz8766 I am very glad you said that about Rav4, I almost bought that last month and instead bought my son and wife to share a Toyota Corolla Hatchback. I am praying it is a good vehicle. Glad to hear someone cares more about quality in this field than the almighty dollar!
What happened with you helping expose the FPE non-UL listing. ?
@@davefranz8766 Thanks, this is what the fields are about, passing on the wisdom and knowledge to our children. The old Psalms and Proverbs of the Word of God.
Nah its not even a quarter of the cost just for material if you do it yourself yall just try to get over on people who dont know better an it seems scary i got a quote from an electrician for 3000 did it myself an git a state inspection for under 500 get the fuck out of here with that shit ever since i started construction at 18 i disliked electricians cocky arrogant an never clean up after yourself
wow!! if a homeowner tried that in my state they would probably be arrested lol....one thing to change a receptacle or install a GFI..leave the real serious stuff to the pros..that have the most recent knowledge and the insurance.
HUM.
PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid
Break down
25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250
5 x $70 DUALS each = $350
1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175
1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300
1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125
mis other breakers non afci = $75
fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50
Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150
Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135
Permit = $125
City Disconnect power fee = $190
Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25
_________________________________________________+
$2,950.00 total
X .09% taxes
+265
______________
$3,215.00
X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965
+$965
_________________
$4,180.00
+ $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer.
_________________
$5,380.00
+ $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business.
_________________
$7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
Home Owner Should Have Use 3 000 Wires For 200 Amps Services
City would not let them go past 150 amps, unless they wanted to pay for boring and changing an underground transformer.
HUM.
PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid
Break down
25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250
5 x $70 DUALS each = $350
1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175
1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300
1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125
mis other breakers non afci = $75
fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50
Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150
Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135
Permit = $125
City Disconnect power fee = $190
Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25
_________________________________________________+
$2,950.00 total
X .09% taxes
+265
______________
$3,215.00
X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965
+$965
_________________
$4,180.00
+ $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer.
_________________
$5,380.00
+ $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business.
_________________
$7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
I’ve seen some pretty bad stuff so I agree with you services are for professionals not homeowners
Thanks, hope most HO figure that out one day. But Hey, that is one reason we have HO insurance and Fire dep.
Thanks for watching, the sad thing about some of these people is that they do not know what can hurt them or the future home buyers to come on that property.
HUM.
PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid
Break down
25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250
5 x $70 DUALS each = $350
1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175
1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300
1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125
mis other breakers non afci = $75
fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50
Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150
Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135
Permit = $125
City Disconnect power fee = $190
Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25
_________________________________________________+
$2,950.00 total
X .09% taxes
+265
______________
$3,215.00
X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965
+$965
_________________
$4,180.00
+ $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer.
_________________
$5,380.00
+ $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business.
_________________
$7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
"it took 7 years to get my license, so you should hire me" ...smh. $2800 lmao Thanks bubba but I can diy it.
Do as you please but one mistake and you're dead. That's why we're expensive.
I just fried some pork chops sandwiches and there is someone behind you
Your cheap with the white tape on the neutral wire I thought you knew code
3 strips. Wow. Your the man.
Some people can't afford a professional so they try to do it themselves here you come along mad that he couldn't afford somebody call the inspector on them and try to get him red tagged if you really cared you would have fixed the job for him for free and then made a show about it now people would appreciate it that
Taxpayer IS more important...
2800$ for a panel? OMG that’s so expensive. Clearly overpriced!
That's not all we did JOKER> Panel inside , AFCI, Main all in one disconnect with by-pass lever outside and trace the house and oh YAH< ground the service 250.50- 250.53 - Your make up is overpriced LOL
@@Petersonelectricllc If you Arc Fault all the circuits then I think your price was fair. Were these existing circuits you arc fault?
2800 thats why you tube is so popular
These are the guys you avoid! Scam artist
$2800 hell no everything it’s basic stuff
It takes us 4 to 5 years of trade school to get are license to be able to preform a installation like this and for some that has no background in the electrical field to just watch a video on you tude and say they could do it thaats a slap on our faces as electricians . And 8,000 man hours of put in work for are trade to qualify to be able to take are journeymans test i saw srew you home owners
You are right! Here in Colorado it is 10,000 hours but took me 12,000 plus four years of trade school. DYI should get in a ditch👍😳🤪
You just want the work lol.
Partly true, went to Trade School for four years and then 7 years working toward my licenses. Only Fair. LO>L
Peterson Electric not necessarily. A mans house is his. If he wants to do his own then that’s his choice. Only the government made to where people needed licensed workers.
@@sergioperez5730 True, but more and more AHJ's in big cities are forcing people to use electrical contractors on the service equipment, I think that is wise, if you have never dwelt with Power Providers, why start now and buy tools you'll never use again.
Peterson Electric well I’m sure there’s ways around it. Where there’s a will there’s a way.
@@sergioperez5730 Sometimes that "Will" without knowledge gets you in trouble later. It's only "POWER". ;)
To damn expensive for over educated personal.
Call your mama boy cry to her
So my question is do you tell professionals like dentists, doctors, chiropractors and other pros that they have done a bad job, or misdiagnosed? Do you try to beat them up on price yet their fees can be through the roof for the 98% population who can not afford health care.
If you City or state allow you to wire then this is your shot to do so, I just would never buy a home from a home owner that is not licensed in all fields.
Inspectors out here expect the pro electrician to be perfect, won’t give us advise and flunk is again and again to “break us in”. Yet, when I have followed up on bids that were done for FREE, we find out the HO was just taking our knowledge for their agenda to do this their self.
If I choose to become an inspector, I will make it harder on HO and will help the contractor out more, I am tired of city and county and state inspectors walking HO through projects to make it easier on the tax payer. Yet when they sell their gone they are trying to get their huge profit off of the next 1st time home buyer that gets schooled by crappy workmanship.
There is not enough mandates that protect us pros that are dedicated over their life time. I have been in the industry 23 years and I do not know everything, but you trying to compare yourself to a professional is not wise
HUM.
PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid
Break down
25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250
5 x $70 DUALS each = $350
1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175
1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300
1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125
mis other breakers non afci = $75
fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50
Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150
Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135
Permit = $125
City Disconnect power fee = $190
Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25
_________________________________________________+
$2,950.00 total
X .09% taxes
+265
______________
$3,215.00
X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965
+$965
_________________
$4,180.00
+ $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer.
_________________
$5,380.00
+ $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business.
_________________
$7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
WOW! I sure made a lot on this JOB!!!! NOT> So, before you go and blast us on youtube, know the facts.
HUM.
PRICING - Pricing based on tracing the house, and installing, AFCI and DUALS, as well as 200 amp rated, grounding on service, copper bus bar and copper feeders. This was a LARGE 1970's home and we also had to do the ALUMINUM /COPPER pigtailing that was a separate bid
Break down
25 x $65 AFCI each = $1,250
5 x $70 DUALS each = $350
1 x outside meter by pass lever cabinet, 200 amp rated = $175
1 x inside panel at cooper bus bar, 200 amp rated with main disconnect breaker = $300
1 x 200 amp, 22k AIC rated, bolt on, main breaker, single phase = $125
mis other breakers non afci = $75
fittings, grounding bushing, plastic bushings, MA, FA, Slip Sleeve etc... = $50
Solid # 4 and #6, grounding; rods, cold water, ISBBB bar = $150
Copper Feeders, #4/0 at 30' = $135
Permit = $125
City Disconnect power fee = $190
Mis caulking, screws, tape, sharpie, straps = $25
_________________________________________________+
$2,950.00 total
X .09% taxes
+265
______________
$3,215.00
X.30% my mark up on parts, ordering, checking in, paying off and delivery, cycling my account = $965
+$965
_________________
$4,180.00
+ $1,200 for utility standards to have a 200 amp service, based on them not us, if you stay less then 200 amps, at a 150, 125 or 100amp rating then you do not have to pay as of 2019, this is assuming the underground laterals and overhead service feeders or transformer do not have to be changed out based on the utility engineer.
_________________
$5,380.00
+ $2,320 Labor for two electricians = 2 days of work plus meeting the inspector for a four hour window. Total hours 20, with pulling permit, and meeting power company and inspector. That is $116 an hour for two electricians. Don't forget paying taxes on our employees and business.
_________________
$7,700.00 - THIS IS CODE REGULATIONS BASED ON NEC for the devices.
WOW! I sure made a lot on this JOB!!!! NOT> So, before you go and blast us on youtube, know the facts.
You know why? Because the homeowner is liable when they pull the permit: it’s
On them.