Good explanation! I’ve been an electrician for 24 years now, I’ve co-owned a small electrical installation company since 2015. We’ve always installed Square D panels in our commercial and residential applications. We’ve been using the Square D Homeline for residential, and installing the plug on neutral DFCI breakers for a good while now. We RARELY have problems with those breakers failing. We discovered a long time ago that you actually get LESS nuisance tripping with a DF verses an AF, which is crazy to me at first because you would think it would trip more. These DF breakers seem to be a little more tolerant than an AFCI breaker. The only circuits we don’t DF is the garage and bathroom plugs. The reason for that is during construction it gives people plugs for saws and compressors that the DF breakers don’t like, which seems to be the only issue we have with these. On those circuits we just install a standard breaker and a GFCI plug. Keep up the good work, it’s cool to see a younger person like yourself that seems to have the love for this trade and putting good information out to those of us that want to be better, more knowledgeable, and more efficient at our jobs than we were yesterday.
Great video Dustin. I am a retired electrician for twenty years from the SF area. I appreciate your knowledge and delivery of all your classes. I wish someone would have had your skills to teach my apprentices this valuable new information. Continue your gift of teaching and hope many will listen to what you are throwing out there.
Couple of honest questions: 1. I have seen some tests where guys have taken under the protection of an arc fault breaker and went to an outlet or switch and created an arc by repeatedly touching the conductor to the terminal screw creating an arc with the breaker failing to trip, am I missing something? 2. With the price of arc fault being so close to DF breakers, should one consider going with all DF breakers or is there a disadvantage of having a ground fault where one isn't necessary, other than sometimes a pesky trip. Thanks in advance! Love your channel man!
LOL....at 5:39 Dustin gave everyone the "Finger"....LOL....Always remember that a standard OCPD, such as a circuit breaker does handle (3) Overcurrent Conditions. They are 1) Overload, 2) Short-Circuit, and 3) Ground-Fault. Remember, GFCI Devices do not function at 4 mA or less and do function at 6 mA and greater per their UL 943 standard. We use the 5 mA as the bridge point as there are some tolerances in the devices that do take place. Great job Dustin. Keep up the great work.
This is awesome! I’ve been a electrical contractor for well over 20yr’s and know most of this but just don’t have the time to keep up and have a complete understanding of all these new requirements. You are a great short cut to educate my self with some of these new requirements and devices that we’ve been installing for years but just didn’t grasp the functionality. Thank you for the show there’s always time to learn more, unless you’re working all the time!!!
I am starting my apprenticeship this year but this is also my passion and I just want to thank you for everything you have taught me in all these videos and just want to let you know you are inspiring people and making people feel awesome and super proud to be an electrician. thanks man.
Great video, very clear! Another issue with e.g. a series arc, is the heat makes plastic (insulation or other) melt, and metal oxidize. So the resistance increases and the heating increases. 12:20 not quite; what the GFCI detects is the difference between the hot and neutral currents, that part is right; however it's far more likely that a person touching the hot wire will get more than 5mA through them (hot to ground, 120V) than them touching the neutral (neutral to ground, might be a few volts if the circuit is heavily loaded). Assuming that the other thing they are connected to is ground. Would also detect them bridging between two circuits, say hot #1 and neutral #2. 14:54 guessing the code doesn't know what people will plug into a receptacle, could be anything, including a toaster with all those exposed hot wires; the sink provides a low-impedance, wet ground connection. So if you have GFCI protection on the receptacles, they can't shock themselves by touching something with one hand while the other hand is in the sink.
Thank you so much. You’ve spent sooo much time on making these videos. You help me make more money for my family and for that I can’t thank you enough.
Great video. I started as a helper in 1972. Back then 3 prong outlets were the new thing. We have come a long way. I got fried a few times because someone cut the ground prong off cords to fit the old outlets and have seen and repaired some deadly installations. Got 3rd degree burns from 120 v arc flash from an outdoor light with water in the socket. I also worked an industrial job with overloaded panels. The room blew up and blew the steel door and block wall down. Nobody was there at the time, we were out about 2 hrs when it blew.
Extremely helpful. I'm going to be replacing a few breakers with dual function, it spooks me that there's no safety for any events on most circuits in this house, including the laundry room.
The double bird, whether intended or not, cracked me up and made my day LOL. Great video. I'm just a generalist home inspector but run into problems with these things all the time. Pass it on to a licensed electrician for safety. I did work around a lot of ungrounded 3 phase 450 VAC in the navy in a previous life, though. Seen three people get electrocuted, and all were from less than 150 volts. It's the small stuff that'll get you.
Dude, really appreciate these videos and this channel. I've always had an interest in electrical but most importantly much respect for it as well. The parents are building a house and going through some planning so I'm refreshing and learning more from your channel. I am not the sharpest tool but you're videos explain it well enough for a guy like me. I'm also in Austin so when I caught you were too, made it even cooooooler!
We had a lighting strike a few blocks from our home in Austin, TX. A number of things are not working but the worst is the AC. My question is simpler though. It's about a GFCI in our kitchen. It has worked for many years. Now it seems to be faulty in that it does not supply power to it's sockets or the others that are wired to it. So, handy-man that I am, I bought a new identical GFCI and a non-contact voltage probe. (The probe was so that I could identify the breaker that feeds this outlet.) With the breaker off I removed the old GFCI, labeling the wires as I removed them. There was a single ground wire, The supply had a hot (black) and neutral (white). The load had a hot and neutral also. I connected all five of those wires to the exact same ports on the new GFCI that they were removed from the old GFCI. When I turned the breaker back on a little green light appeared on the new GIF. (The old one didn't have that feature.) I plugged in the NEMA-5 3-light tester and no lights turned on. What is wrong and how do I troubleshoot this? Point me to a video if you've covered this before. Thanks for a great channel.
As others have said I enjoy the animations and graphics that help drive home the point. Also your explanations without going too heavy on NEC terminology and personality keep me watching and learning from your videos ! Thanks!
I just wired my new house with plug-on neutral breakers (HOM from Square D) and it's a pleasure. You can get a very neat panel. I didn't really understand where to put what exactly so I ended up over protecting my circuits putting Dual Function everywhere that could be wet (2 countertop circuits, bathroom, crawlspace, septic, exterior outlets) and AFCI everywhere else. I could have probably got away with less but I didn't want to research for days to save a few bucks.
I've been in the trade for 20yrs and I love that I can still learn everyday. I don't do a whole lot of regular electrician work any more as I'm more into medium and high voltage work but I still do enough side jobs that it's helpful to fully understand the science behind the trade. Thanks for the vid....
Hey Dustin, great video. I am a journeyman in western Oregon and tested out in 98. I do not wire a lot of homes but from time to time find myself in one and every time it seems like the use of arc fault just keeps growing. I understand the technology behind the GFCI but am still a little fuzzy on how AFCI detects arcs. I probably should know this but have not devoted much time to it. Appreciate any comments.
Arc faults are detected using micro-controllers that look for specific voltage-current patterns. A series arc will not flow current until near the peak of the voltage cycle, then drop off after the arc forms. It's tricky because switch mode power supplies that are everywhere now also only draw current near the top of the voltage cycle. But each create a different pattern of distortion.
Thanks for excellent video, I am in the process of replacing my home electric 100amp panel to 200amp with all new breakers. My electrician thinks, I am asking too many questions regarding electric panel and breakers.
Man, this is SUPER helpful. Instant subscribe. I started electrical trade school 4 months ago and just this video has made a few things so much more clear! I think it also helps that you're a younger guy lol my teachers are pretty old, so sometimes they mumble and jumble their way through a lesson. THANK YOU for being so clear and concise. Keep up that energy!
Great video, I love your enthusiasm and knowledge. Way to give a hand up to the next generation of electricians. I have been an electrician since 1978. And I am still learning all the time. Our trade is ever evolving. Thank you for what you do.⚡
Excellent!! I knew about Arc, GFCI and Dual breakers for sometime but was not 100% sure of their function. I replaced a breaker box in our log cabin and decided to make them all Dual. As you say better to be overprotected than under-protected. Actually I said all, there was one breaker that is a two pole (for the mini split) but I couldn't find a Dual for it. Is there a reason for that? So glad you emphasize how lethal electricity can be. My experience is that people tend to be more fearful of plumbing issues i.e. water, than electrical issues. With water you just get wet, with electricity your life is in your hand😀😀
15:20 "Duel' is "Combat between two parties" vs what you actually meant, "Dual", which means consisting of two parts. Grammatically pedantic, maybe, but I already received a double-bird at 5:36, so I needed to earn it.😀 On second thought, sometimes when trying to wrestle those long Square D PDFC breakers into a busy panel, it seems like "Duel" may be a more accurate description. Great video, as always.
Brilliant presentation. Your explanation of the principles of operation and functions of these devices is a great addition to our knowledge base. Have you encountered any failures of either combination devices or stand alone AFCI devices when used on circuits with fractional horsepower motors (refrigerators, dishwashers, garbage disposals, etc.)? If so, what was your solution? We appreciate your generosity of knowledge.
Doing some wiring at my house…a few outlets and changing out a few lighting fixtures. Thank you for sharing your expertise! You’re very knowledgeable, and I subscribed 😊
When my company purchased a great Fluke combination VOM & 50 TO 1,000 Volt megger a few years back I sent away for a Fluke maybe 24 to 36 page megger book. Started out 50 years ago with a Bittle hand crank megger. Here are a few tips: to test a motor the shaft must not be turning not even 1/4RPM or reading will be jumping all over the place and not be accurate. Test voltage should be twice the voltage + 100 volts. So you need a 1,000 volt megger to test a 480 volt motor. For motors on VFD drives some compamies state that reading must be at least 10 megohms to ground. I perfer 20 megohms due to some drives tripping out on ground fault at 15 megohms. Never touch motor leads for a few mintues or you will recieve a nice shock. To check if a motor if grounded you must disconnect all line leads off motor leads at the pecker head. I saw lazy electricians skip this & only meggered at starter. Replaced motor and it still took out fuses due to wires were grounded. I have an expensive Simpson megger, DC Volt & ohmeter that puts out up to 5,000 volts that I used to test 4 ,160 volt motors. Ya should use a 10,000 volt megger but cost too much. Safety tip from an old fart & Nam vet: NEVER EVER purchase or use ANY test or safety equipment, tools or LED'S from lying cheating lack of quality control scum bag communist china. Not worth saving a few bucks to put your life out on slippery limb. Had crap china meter leads break within 3 months of buying. Had china LED'S driver catch on fire and china replacement smoking after only a few months. Got a made in good old USA driver and has been working great over 5 years. Glad to say that I only own 1 cheating china tool that is a replacement for a 50 year old Crafstman breaker bar. I have 2 other breaker bars so doubt if I will ever use that one. Have some German wrenches ans Swiss made precison screedrivers. Everything else was made in USA by tax paying AMERICANS.
Great videos. I work in the oil and gas industry, but much of this info is still helpful wiring and understanding control buildings and equipment. These videos are not boring, like some of the stuff out there, that will put a baby to sleep ... taught by someone who is out of touch with the field. 🇨🇱👍
Great instructor. Got good insights into the thought processes of a professional. Feel a lot better about your rates. A friend of mine died working on a dryer. Made one mistake. I have much respect for your profession. Thanks.
Superb instruction. Thanks so much! I don't subscribe to anything on youtube, but I am subscribing to your channel! Can't thank you enough for your excellent explanations, clear, and thorough and easy to understand. You have a gift for teaching that most people lack.
I bought this up to a Square D sales engineer and several inspectors. Now with AFCI required on just about every residental circuit how do they expect a neat job bundling wires where you have say 30 AFCI breakers in a panel that does not have plug in neutrals. So now you have 120 wires in a 14.5" wide panel with the long AFCI breakers taking up probsbly 25% more room then a non AFCI breaker. In my own 40 circuit panel I used a lot of sticky back ty rab bases along with probsbly 40 tie rabs to do what code says workmenship matter. Think they should make 16 or 18" wide panels.
Dustin, how about addressing nuisance tripping and strategies for dealing with them? The codemakers know it's a problem so allow fire alarm and burglar alarm circuits to be exempted. Having to go down into the basement, or in your case outside to reset a GFCI/AFCI breaker seems to be a pain in the ass to be avoided. If the NEC allows a metallic wireway to the first device, and then a dual function receptacle, wouldn't running a MC homerun to the first receptacle on a kitchen small appliance circuit and then NM cable to downstream receptacles from the load side of the dual function receptacle work? Or just MC to the first plug on a bedroom circuit and use an AFCI receptacle since they are half the price of an AFCI breaker? Easier to see and solve a problem on your kitchen countertop then in the basement.
Hey Dustin just wanted to say I love your videos. You are saying that in your jurisdiction the refrigerator had to be GFCI protected. In my jurisdiction it doesn't have to be. What are your thoughts on it? Do you think it should or shouldn't be?
Around 18 minutes where you were talking about laundry rooms and mentioned the 15-20amp and 120volt, is this affected by the 2020nec changes that increased the requirements to anything that is 150volts or less to ground making the dryer require it also? I know the last one I did I had to but we moved their laundry room to the bathroom and made a combo room so not sure if that's why it was required by that change or if it's all laundry rooms
I really like your explanation. I wish you would have done a brief overview and then had separate videos for further explanation about arc fault works. I was curious so I went and watched other guys explain arc fault and sine waves.
HAHA!!! FLASH SUITS song....... Love your content so much, I'd EVEN buy your music recordings! Thanks for making it interesting and keeping it fun while educating. GREAT TEACHER!🔌
Can you please do a follow up video on why Arc-Fault breakers have a lot of faulty tripping. Seems like every electrician I work with hates them, even though they're code. Is there a way to prevent this? Any insight into it would be great!
according to his explanation they react to any anomaly on the circuit, not just to the big ones like the regular breakers, that explains the extra tripping.
This is complete hear-say, but I've heard a few people saying the square D dual function breakers are less likely to cause erroneous trips than just the std AFCI. Have not examined this myself yet.
Excellent topic, very informative and educational. Preferred the GFCI/ AFCI device embedded in cb housing. Reason, for device curiosity tinkers: safety first, voltage is still present on old type GFCI receptacle line side terminal.
At the time mark 11:58 you say that the GFCI will trip with the fault current within 5mA (which can be understood that trips at lower current) and some will, but majority will not. It would be better to say that GFCI trips when fault current exceeds 5mA. Beside that very good and useful video.
I'd like to make a request for a video. I've been watching your videos all throughout my apprenticeship and I'm soon to get my journeyman. I'm almost done with my 3rd year. Great info and material. Ive definitely taken a lot of wisdom in work and life from this. Still to this day I struggle with confidence. I know they say this comes with experience. However, in 3+ years I've gotten my hands on quite a bit of stuff. Some of it more times than I can count. I still find myself getting tripped up. Making stupid mistakes because I either get ahead of myself or I miss minor details that screw me later on. Especially when my boss is watching and letting me work and I see the smirk or hear that wtf are you doing or why didn't you just do this or that, I get all self conscious unsure of myself. I think I should be past that at this point. Perhaps this is normal and I'm just being my biggest critic. Comments are welcome for input as well.
Question, Do you know more now and are you more capable then you were last year? How about between last year and the year before that? How about from last week? Yesterday? Do you learn from your mistakes? Your getting better every day and will continue to do so for the rest of your life. Sounds to me like your being to critical of yourself. Think about what you have learned and what you are capable of.
@@markchidester6239 When you put it that way you are definitely on to something. I've most certainly come a long way since my first year. If I'm given enough space I can figure just about anything out. When I stand back even veterans of the trade make seemingly amateur mistakes. I guess it's coming to understand that that's a part of the trade and a learning process forever. I wouldn't doubt that I'm my own biggest critic and I probably just use other people's criticism to magnify mine and blow it out of proportion. They are probably not as worried about it as I am. Kool man thanks
Great video man! I did a little addition on my house, bedroom, bathroom and laundry room I'm guessing I can use dual function breakers for everything lights/receptacles that way everything will be covered is that correct?
Hey bro, I love your videos and teaching style. My first question is why does the code only speak about 120 volt circuits? What about ovens, stove tops, ranges and dryers? Thanks in advance! Second, why can't they design a whole house/panel solution? Better yet, something at the meter pan? Keep the content coming.
Code definitely discusses far more than just 120V circuits, so I'll leave that to further reading in the dreaded code book. :P The whole house solution is something I've pondered before, and I've heard that there are things like main breakers with GFCI protection that exist (countries outside the US?), but the logic is kind of as follows: at the point of a plug on a circuit, 5mA of imbalance means something is wrong, but 4 is okay. If you've got 10 circuits going through your main, do you need wiggle room for 20mA of imbalance if each circuit on one of the phases if having that 4, or should it be less if some of the imbalances are canceling each other out cause they're on different phases? What if you have more/less that 10 circuits? If you add circuits later do you need to change to a more/less sensitive main? How does the mix of circuits that do/don't rely on the neutral factor into the balance your looking for? It all gets complicated very quickly when you go upstream of a single branch circuit that perhaps the sensitivity you'd need would be so much less that it's not really giving you the level of protection you need to actually protect you. And that's just GFCIs, AFCIs track wave forms so I'm not gonna get into that here. You can feed sub-panels for garages using AFCI/GFCI breakers at your main, so there is kind of an implementation of this that does exist commonly, but if there is an easy answer out there to a whole house solution like I think you're talking about you need to stop wiring plugs and talk to Eaton/Square D about your engineering design and sell it to them for millions. lol
Alot of information here. As a 4th week apprentice totally green I don't even know if I should be learning all this right now. I'm not even in the school yet. Once I hit my 60 days at my job I can enroll into the schooling and they pay for it. I'm currently doing pre-fab work for the company for commercial work. I like to know what I'm working on so these videos come in handy. My question is, do you think I should get ahead of the game and learn all of this now or just take it slow and learn as I go?
I’ve always explained a GFCI as a doorman. He’s constantly counting electrons entering the building. For example:10 in 10 out, if he only counts 9 out. He shuts down & locks doors until number 10 is accounted for.
There's a couple videos of people in these arc suits or safety suits (Don't know their proper term) get blown up by the very equipment they're working on. The explosion was so blinding that the video was nothing but light at the moment. Immediately after, you can see them get up and continue their work. Technology is amazing.
Have arc fault breaker’s gotten better from when they first came out? My house had Arc faults and everytime I used a vacuum cleaner or hairdryer it would trip the breaker. I changed them all out to thermal magnetic.
When was your house built? I am assuming it required AFCI breakers as they are about 10x or more than a standard breaker. This will mean something when the house is sold. I had a AFCI breaker that I thought was bad, but a new one tripped the same way. It ended up the toaster was the problem. Your vacuum might be the problem. That said, the currently sold ones seem to be programmed to ignore some noisy motors.
AFCIs are notorious for this kind of "nuisance tripping", but that being said I've talked with electricians who were journeyman before AFCIs were required anywhere who have said they've never had an issue, the only issue is people plugging in old things (particularly vacuums) that have internal components that are breaking down but still functional. Basically the way to test isn't does my vacuum/hair dryer work on a normal plug to see if the problem is the AFCI, it's does a *new* vacuum/hair dryer work on the AFCI circuit to see if the problem is the old device.
All you needed to do was remove the neutral wire from the breaker and put the load neutral back onto the neutral buss. The electronic circuit board uses the curly cord neutral to complete its circuit. Without that connected the AFCI breaker becomes a regular thermal mag. As time went by there were more arc signatures loaded into the breakers and yes they got better, also Electricans got better at installing wiring, no more apprentices hammering staples in on an angle etc.
My house is newer (6 years old) and all of the outlet circuits are on arc fault breakers. I can honestly say I have not experienced any instance of breakers tripping when they shouldn't.
@@normILL Interesting thought, I can believe that. Would imagine that plugging in something like a shopvac or hair dryer that is switched on would do the same. I haven't had the pleasure of dealing with these afci breakers yet. Doesn't sound like fun.
Thanks for the great information. This video was made three years ago. Since then, has the NEC changed the code so that all receptacles in a kitchen need to be GFCI? (Even behind the refrigerator)
You guys do great videos, many thanks. Can you give an explanation of how to use a plug on neutral sub panel where all circuits must be both arc fault and Ground fault, if this is possible. thanks
Great information, but I'm seeing people not want Arc-Fault and Ground Fault breakers seems they see the cost of the product too high, just want a outlet inline. NEC codes have manufacture input and they made the pricing higher then needed. I do (try) talking in to dual function if possible. Still having complaints on main disconnects at the meter being turned off as some neighborhood kids jokes.
This is one of the best video ever!!! Do you know the difference between siemers type qaf and type qaf2? Two of the three QAFs are no longer functioning. Is type QAF2 offer more protection then the QAF?
Residential here. I just got hired on to do Solar installations, so I hope by the time I go back to doing general residential stuff the Code has finally taken the jump to say all stuff needs both AFCI & GFCI protection. It's always so silly trying to explain to a customer why it's only really needed in some areas when the whole case to bring them into code compliance is safety, just not this important safety feature *everywhere*, though we get closer to that every 3 years. lol
One accident that can happen even with a ground fault breaker or receptacle is when the ground terminal is broken or internally not connected on the male plug of an extension cord. The ground wire in the cord can now mimic the hot wire and give a nice shock if you are wet even with no load. The power delivered can increase as the load increases. Grounded tools create a large surface area to connect to your hand or body to exasperate this effect. The longer the extension cord the better the shock. Sincerely, William McCormick
Thank you so much man, you explain in a minutes what I'm trying to learn from a long time, just one question, if you install a dual function breaker in kitchen sink or in bathroom receptacles do I have to install a GFCI receptacle?
Watch a ton of your videos for help in the field and in class! Just wondering if you could make a video on wire joints? 3 wire joint and 4 wire joint tips and tricks? Need some help
Hey Dustin really great videos!, I love the way you teach and your passion about electricity can you please do one about ballasts? (I know you did one about the HID light ballasts) the working, different types (dimming etc.) and wiring, thanks in advance!
Great video as always. Question on the GFI breakers with the neutral pigtail. If you have a couple of branch circuits to an area requiring protection like a pool, kitchen sink area, etc and you have just about room in your conduit to pull another hot so you will be sharing the neutral, will the breaker for the new hot function properly without a dedicated neutral? If not is there a way to make that new hot GFI protected? Possibly installing a GFI receptacle? Or must that new hot be paired with its own neutral?
U cannot share a neutral with gfci..it will trip due to 2 different loads on the same neutral not to mention it could overheat the common neutral connection..and if u do decide to share a neutral it must be on a double pole breaker..so when power is tripped on one circuit..both are tripped...in my opinion shared neutrals shared NEVER be allowed..not an electrician here..just my thoughts.
Would really like to see a actual arc explosion to show the devastation that you speak of. I wonder if UL or a Utility Company would give you access to some of their testing videos or surveillance videos...
Imagine the sun briefly being beside you. I had a 4 AWG ground vaporize once when installing it touched both legs of an older (80s) load center. I had an instant sunburn, copper infused into my glasses, and more small beads of copper around the room than I could count. I was lucky.
Nice video. Was wondering if there are any circuits it wouldnt make sense to use a DF breaker on in a home? I get customers with young children or folks that previously in their lives had a house fire that want top notch electrical protection, whole-house protection. Thoughts?
At 12:21 you state that if someone grabbed the Neutral, the breaker would trip because it would sense that "Neutral had dropped all of a sudden". Normally a GFCI would not trip just from someone touching Neutral. The only way that would happen, even if there were a load connected to the circuit, is if the person simultaneously touched Neutral and the Hot side of the circuit. Earth ground, the ground wire and Neutral are all bonded together back at the main panel so there is no difference between touching Neutral and touching the earth itself or touching a ground wire, even if Neutral is coming through a load and carrying current, As long as it has a direct path back to the panel, the current will go that way, not through a person. Obviously the Hot side is a different story. If you touch Hot simultaneously with the earth, Neutral or a ground wire you will get a shock and if it happens through a GFCI breaker, the breaker will trip.
Good explanation! I’ve been an electrician for 24 years now, I’ve co-owned a small electrical installation company since 2015. We’ve always installed Square D panels in our commercial and residential applications. We’ve been using the Square D Homeline for residential, and installing the plug on neutral DFCI breakers for a good while now. We RARELY have problems with those breakers failing. We discovered a long time ago that you actually get LESS nuisance tripping with a DF verses an AF, which is crazy to me at first because you would think it would trip more. These DF breakers seem to be a little more tolerant than an AFCI breaker. The only circuits we don’t DF is the garage and bathroom plugs. The reason for that is during construction it gives people plugs for saws and compressors that the DF breakers don’t like, which seems to be the only issue we have with these. On those circuits we just install a standard breaker and a GFCI plug. Keep up the good work, it’s cool to see a younger person like yourself that seems to have the love for this trade and putting good information out to those of us that want to be better, more knowledgeable, and more efficient at our jobs than we were yesterday.
good to know. Thanks
Nice job
Have you ever have any issues with refrigerators or freezers tripping DF breakers?
@@kylelaw7210 no, not at all.
Dude the graphics and sounds effects add a whole new level to your vids. Well done.
Your actually one of the best teachers on electrical systems I've seen so far, you explain it so easy to understand. Thanks
This is one of those rare training pieces that every single apprentice should watch. Ours will. Thanks again for an outstanding production!
This kid is articulately concise and extremely accurate to the point! Great job kid!
Great video Dustin. I am a retired electrician for twenty years from the SF area. I appreciate your knowledge and delivery of all your classes. I wish someone would have had your skills to teach my apprentices this valuable new information. Continue your gift of teaching and hope many will listen to what you are throwing out there.
Couple of honest questions: 1. I have seen some tests where guys have taken under the protection of an arc fault breaker and went to an outlet or switch and created an arc by repeatedly touching the conductor to the terminal screw creating an arc with the breaker failing to trip, am I missing something? 2. With the price of arc fault being so close to DF breakers, should one consider going with all DF breakers or is there a disadvantage of having a ground fault where one isn't necessary, other than sometimes a pesky trip. Thanks in advance! Love your channel man!
LOL....at 5:39 Dustin gave everyone the "Finger"....LOL....Always remember that a standard OCPD, such as a circuit breaker does handle (3) Overcurrent Conditions. They are 1) Overload, 2) Short-Circuit, and 3) Ground-Fault. Remember, GFCI Devices do not function at 4 mA or less and do function at 6 mA and greater per their UL 943 standard. We use the 5 mA as the bridge point as there are some tolerances in the devices that do take place. Great job Dustin. Keep up the great work.
This was an excellent video very well communicated by the electrician, there are many electricians that do not understand this protection.
This is awesome! I’ve been a electrical contractor for well over 20yr’s and know most of this but just don’t have the time to keep up and have a complete understanding of all these new requirements. You are a great short cut to educate my self with some of these new requirements and devices that we’ve been installing for years but just didn’t grasp the functionality. Thank you for the show there’s always time to learn more, unless you’re working all the time!!!
I am starting my apprenticeship this year but this is also my passion and I just want to thank you for everything you have taught me in all these videos and just want to let you know you are inspiring people and making people feel awesome and super proud to be an electrician. thanks man.
IBEW
@@nrg_fre local 11!
Jake, what state is your Electrician Apprenticeship starting, as we have a Grandson interested in great Trade?
Best description of an electrical system that I’ve ever seen!
I am not an electrician but I work for an electrician and this video was hugely helpful for me! Thanks so much for sharing!
Great video, very clear!
Another issue with e.g. a series arc, is the heat makes plastic (insulation or other) melt, and metal oxidize. So the resistance increases and the heating increases.
12:20 not quite; what the GFCI detects is the difference between the hot and neutral currents, that part is right; however it's far more likely that a person touching the hot wire will get more than 5mA through them (hot to ground, 120V) than them touching the neutral (neutral to ground, might be a few volts if the circuit is heavily loaded). Assuming that the other thing they are connected to is ground.
Would also detect them bridging between two circuits, say hot #1 and neutral #2.
14:54 guessing the code doesn't know what people will plug into a receptacle, could be anything, including a toaster with all those exposed hot wires; the sink provides a low-impedance, wet ground connection. So if you have GFCI protection on the receptacles, they can't shock themselves by touching something with one hand while the other hand is in the sink.
I agree. I work for a company that deals with switchboards and whenever I have a question I look for you to explain and I will be joining you club
Thank you so much. You’ve spent sooo much time on making these videos. You help me make more money for my family and for that I can’t thank you enough.
Great video. I started as a helper in 1972. Back then 3 prong outlets were the new thing. We have come a long way. I got fried a few times because someone cut the ground prong off cords to fit the old outlets and have seen and repaired some deadly installations. Got 3rd degree burns from 120 v arc flash from an outdoor light with water in the socket. I also worked an industrial job with overloaded panels. The room blew up and blew the steel door and block wall down. Nobody was there at the time, we were out about 2 hrs when it blew.
Your videos are awesome, Dustin. You're a huge inspiration for me to become an electrician, and I just passed my apprenticeship phase! Rock on!
Dustin, you are a teacher who has met our need and then some. Godspeed to you and your family.
Extremely helpful. I'm going to be replacing a few breakers with dual function, it spooks me that there's no safety for any events on most circuits in this house, including the laundry room.
The double bird, whether intended or not, cracked me up and made my day LOL. Great video. I'm just a generalist home inspector but run into problems with these things all the time. Pass it on to a licensed electrician for safety. I did work around a lot of ungrounded 3 phase 450 VAC in the navy in a previous life, though. Seen three people get electrocuted, and all were from less than 150 volts. It's the small stuff that'll get you.
Again you have explained how a breaker works very well! No one has ever said it like you did. Thanks!!!
Dude, really appreciate these videos and this channel. I've always had an interest in electrical but most importantly much respect for it as well. The parents are building a house and going through some planning so I'm refreshing and learning more from your channel. I am not the sharpest tool but you're videos explain it well enough for a guy like me. I'm also in Austin so when I caught you were too, made it even cooooooler!
I had very little understanding of electricity and this taught me a lot, thanks for great content!
We had a lighting strike a few blocks from our home in Austin, TX. A number of things are not working but the worst is the AC. My question is simpler though. It's about a GFCI in our kitchen. It has worked for many years. Now it seems to be faulty in that it does not supply power to it's sockets or the others that are wired to it.
So, handy-man that I am, I bought a new identical GFCI and a non-contact voltage probe. (The probe was so that I could identify the breaker that feeds this outlet.) With the breaker off I removed the old GFCI, labeling the wires as I removed them. There was a single ground wire, The supply had a hot (black) and neutral (white). The load had a hot and neutral also. I connected all five of those wires to the exact same ports on the new GFCI that they were removed from the old GFCI. When I turned the breaker back on a little green light appeared on the new GIF. (The old one didn't have that feature.) I plugged in the NEMA-5 3-light tester and no lights turned on.
What is wrong and how do I troubleshoot this? Point me to a video if you've covered this before. Thanks for a great channel.
As others have said I enjoy the animations and graphics that help drive home the point. Also your explanations without going too heavy on NEC terminology and personality keep me watching and learning from your videos ! Thanks!
I just wired my new house with plug-on neutral breakers (HOM from Square D) and it's a pleasure. You can get a very neat panel.
I didn't really understand where to put what exactly so I ended up over protecting my circuits putting Dual Function everywhere that could be wet (2 countertop circuits, bathroom, crawlspace, septic, exterior outlets) and AFCI everywhere else. I could have probably got away with less but I didn't want to research for days to save a few bucks.
Plug in is the way to go, I believe all manufacturers now offer except for GE
I've been in the trade for 20yrs and I love that I can still learn everyday. I don't do a whole lot of regular electrician work any more as I'm more into medium and high voltage work but I still do enough side jobs that it's helpful to fully understand the science behind the trade. Thanks for the vid....
Hey Dustin, great video. I am a journeyman in western Oregon and tested out in 98. I do not wire a lot of homes but from time to time find myself in one and every time it seems like the use of arc fault just keeps growing. I understand the technology behind the GFCI but am still a little fuzzy on how AFCI detects arcs. I probably should know this but have not devoted much time to it. Appreciate any comments.
Arc faults are detected using micro-controllers that look for specific voltage-current patterns. A series arc will not flow current until near the peak of the voltage cycle, then drop off after the arc forms. It's tricky because switch mode power supplies that are everywhere now also only draw current near the top of the voltage cycle. But each create a different pattern of distortion.
Thanks for excellent video, I am in the process of replacing my home electric 100amp panel to 200amp with all new breakers.
My electrician thinks, I am asking too many questions regarding electric panel and breakers.
Man, this is SUPER helpful. Instant subscribe. I started electrical trade school 4 months ago and just this video has made a few things so much more clear! I think it also helps that you're a younger guy lol my teachers are pretty old, so sometimes they mumble and jumble their way through a lesson. THANK YOU for being so clear and concise. Keep up that energy!
Hell yes!! Man ever since your channel went dark there has been a content sized hole, glad to have you back brother hope all is well!
You are one Proton Pack away from having the most awesome background ever.
Great video, I love your enthusiasm and knowledge. Way to give a hand up to the next generation of electricians. I have been an electrician since 1978. And I am still learning all the time. Our trade is ever evolving. Thank you for what you do.⚡
I like seeing an experienced electrician post a positive comment like this to someone who earned the respect. Thanks!
Excellent!! I knew about Arc, GFCI and Dual breakers for sometime but was not 100% sure of their function. I replaced a breaker box in our log cabin and decided to make them all Dual. As you say better to be overprotected than under-protected.
Actually I said all, there was one breaker that is a two pole (for the mini split) but I couldn't find a Dual for it. Is there a reason for that?
So glad you emphasize how lethal electricity can be. My experience is that people tend to be more fearful of plumbing issues i.e. water, than electrical issues. With water you just get wet, with electricity your life is in your hand😀😀
Also....5:40 giving us all the double bird. Legend.
I really enjoy this channel I’m a apprentice working my way to a wire man and this helps me a lot at work 💪🏼🙋🏻♂️ ‘ thanks a lot ...for you time
Knowledge is power! I enjoy watching and learning from your videos; they bring a lot of common sense to the convoluted NEC. Thanks Dustin!
15:20 "Duel' is "Combat between two parties" vs what you actually meant, "Dual", which means consisting of two parts. Grammatically pedantic, maybe, but I already received a double-bird at 5:36, so I needed to earn it.😀 On second thought, sometimes when trying to wrestle those long Square D PDFC breakers into a busy panel, it seems like "Duel" may be a more accurate description. Great video, as always.
Brilliant presentation. Your explanation of the principles of operation and functions of these devices is a great addition to our knowledge base.
Have you encountered any failures of either combination devices or stand alone AFCI devices when used on circuits with fractional horsepower motors (refrigerators, dishwashers, garbage disposals, etc.)?
If so, what was your solution?
We appreciate your generosity of knowledge.
The effects are hilarious all while relaying great information. Bravo Brother!
Doing some wiring at my house…a few outlets and changing out a few lighting fixtures. Thank you for sharing your expertise! You’re very knowledgeable, and I subscribed 😊
Thanks for watching and thanks for the sub!
Thanks for posting the informative but entertaining video. Thanks for keeping us safer.
This is very informative and very well put together. I love that there aren’t 20,000 jump cuts.
Dustin, PLEASE make a video on Megger testing insulation. c'mon man, please!
Like so he might see this...
When my company purchased a great Fluke combination VOM & 50 TO 1,000 Volt megger a few years back I sent away for a Fluke maybe 24 to 36 page megger book. Started out 50 years ago with a Bittle hand crank megger. Here are a few tips: to test a motor the shaft must not be turning not even 1/4RPM or reading will be jumping all over the place and not be accurate. Test voltage should be twice the voltage + 100 volts. So you need a 1,000 volt megger to test a 480 volt motor. For motors on VFD drives some compamies state that reading must be at least 10 megohms to ground. I perfer 20 megohms due to some drives tripping out on ground fault at 15 megohms. Never touch motor leads for a few mintues or you will recieve a nice shock. To check if a motor if grounded you must disconnect all line leads off motor leads at the pecker head. I saw lazy electricians skip this & only meggered at starter. Replaced motor and it still took out fuses due to wires were grounded. I have an expensive Simpson megger, DC Volt & ohmeter that puts out up to 5,000 volts that I used to test 4 ,160 volt motors. Ya should use a 10,000 volt megger but cost too much. Safety tip from an old fart & Nam vet: NEVER EVER purchase or use ANY test or safety equipment, tools or LED'S from lying cheating lack of quality control scum bag communist china. Not worth saving a few bucks to put your life out on slippery limb. Had crap china meter leads break within 3 months of buying. Had china LED'S driver catch on fire and china replacement smoking after only a few months. Got a made in good old USA driver and has been working great over 5 years. Glad to say that I only own 1 cheating china tool that is a replacement for a 50 year old Crafstman breaker bar. I have 2 other breaker bars so doubt if I will ever use that one. Have some German wrenches ans Swiss made precison screedrivers. Everything else was made in USA by tax paying AMERICANS.
Great video, thank you for sharing, keep safe
Great videos. I work in the oil and gas industry, but much of this info is still helpful wiring and understanding control buildings and equipment. These videos are not boring, like some of the stuff out there, that will put a baby to sleep ... taught by someone who is out of touch with the field. 🇨🇱👍
Your analogies are why I subscribed.
Great instructor. Got good insights into the thought processes of a professional. Feel a lot better about your rates. A friend of mine died working on a dryer. Made one mistake. I have much respect for your profession. Thanks.
Superb instruction. Thanks so much! I don't subscribe to anything on youtube, but I am subscribing to your channel! Can't thank you enough for your excellent explanations, clear, and thorough and easy to understand. You have a gift for teaching that most people lack.
any chance you could do a video on wireways, cable trays, auxiliary gutters, busways and splitters. Their uses and differences.
I bought this up to a Square D sales engineer and several inspectors. Now with AFCI required on just about every residental circuit how do they expect a neat job bundling wires where you have say 30 AFCI breakers in a panel that does not have plug in neutrals. So now you have 120 wires in a 14.5" wide panel with the long AFCI breakers taking up probsbly 25% more room then a non AFCI breaker. In my own 40 circuit panel I used a lot of sticky back ty rab bases along with probsbly 40 tie rabs to do what code says workmenship matter. Think they should make 16 or 18" wide panels.
Dustin, how about addressing nuisance tripping and strategies for dealing with them? The codemakers know it's a problem so allow fire alarm and burglar alarm circuits to be exempted. Having to go down into the basement, or in your case outside to reset a GFCI/AFCI breaker seems to be a pain in the ass to be avoided. If the NEC allows a metallic wireway to the first device, and then a dual function receptacle, wouldn't running a MC homerun to the first receptacle on a kitchen small appliance circuit and then NM cable to downstream receptacles from the load side of the dual function receptacle work? Or just MC to the first plug on a bedroom circuit and use an AFCI receptacle since they are half the price of an AFCI breaker? Easier to see and solve a problem on your kitchen countertop then in the basement.
Hey Dustin just wanted to say I love your videos. You are saying that in your jurisdiction the refrigerator had to be GFCI protected. In my jurisdiction it doesn't have to be. What are your thoughts on it? Do you think it should or shouldn't be?
Around 18 minutes where you were talking about laundry rooms and mentioned the 15-20amp and 120volt, is this affected by the 2020nec changes that increased the requirements to anything that is 150volts or less to ground making the dryer require it also? I know the last one I did I had to but we moved their laundry room to the bathroom and made a combo room so not sure if that's why it was required by that change or if it's all laundry rooms
I really like your explanation. I wish you would have done a brief overview and then had separate videos for further explanation about arc fault works. I was curious so I went and watched other guys explain arc fault and sine waves.
HAHA!!! FLASH SUITS song....... Love your content so much, I'd EVEN buy your music recordings! Thanks for making it interesting and keeping it fun while educating. GREAT TEACHER!🔌
Your videos are getting very cool love your channel
11:36 love the Johnny 5 short circuit reference.
“Hey laser lips, your momma was a snowblower..”. “No disassemble”
Can you please do a follow up video on why Arc-Fault breakers have a lot of faulty tripping. Seems like every electrician I work with hates them, even though they're code. Is there a way to prevent this? Any insight into it would be great!
according to his explanation they react to any anomaly on the circuit, not just to the big ones like the regular breakers, that explains the extra tripping.
This is complete hear-say, but I've heard a few people saying the square D dual function breakers are less likely to cause erroneous trips than just the std AFCI. Have not examined this myself yet.
Great video !!!
I had learned a lots with your wise videos man I really appreciated keep up the good work stay safe..
Beyond everything else great about the info here... I'm glad #5 was featured, otherwise I was thinking about that too much until he showed up 🤪
Excellent topic, very informative and educational. Preferred the GFCI/ AFCI device embedded in cb housing. Reason, for device curiosity tinkers: safety first, voltage is still present on old type GFCI receptacle line side terminal.
At the time mark 11:58 you say that the GFCI will trip with the fault current within 5mA (which can be understood that trips at lower current) and some will, but majority will not. It would be better to say that GFCI trips when fault current exceeds 5mA. Beside that very good and useful video.
thank you Dustin this answered my question for my house in the philippines 👍👍👍👌
Love the special effects ! this month is the first time i seen a plug neutral load center.
I'd like to make a request for a video. I've been watching your videos all throughout my apprenticeship and I'm soon to get my journeyman. I'm almost done with my 3rd year. Great info and material. Ive definitely taken a lot of wisdom in work and life from this. Still to this day I struggle with confidence. I know they say this comes with experience. However, in 3+ years I've gotten my hands on quite a bit of stuff. Some of it more times than I can count. I still find myself getting tripped up. Making stupid mistakes because I either get ahead of myself or I miss minor details that screw me later on. Especially when my boss is watching and letting me work and I see the smirk or hear that wtf are you doing or why didn't you just do this or that, I get all self conscious unsure of myself. I think I should be past that at this point. Perhaps this is normal and I'm just being my biggest critic. Comments are welcome for input as well.
Question,
Do you know more now and are you more capable then you were last year?
How about between last year and the year before that?
How about from last week? Yesterday?
Do you learn from your mistakes?
Your getting better every day and will continue to do so for the rest of your life.
Sounds to me like your being to critical of yourself. Think about what you have learned and what you are capable of.
@@markchidester6239 When you put it that way you are definitely on to something. I've most certainly come a long way since my first year. If I'm given enough space I can figure just about anything out. When I stand back even veterans of the trade make seemingly amateur mistakes. I guess it's coming to understand that that's a part of the trade and a learning process forever. I wouldn't doubt that I'm my own biggest critic and I probably just use other people's criticism to magnify mine and blow it out of proportion. They are probably not as worried about it as I am. Kool man thanks
Great video man! I did a little addition on my house, bedroom, bathroom and laundry room I'm guessing I can use dual function breakers for everything lights/receptacles that way everything will be covered is that correct?
Number 5 is alive.
Keep the great content coming.
Need input.
Hey bro, I love your videos and teaching style. My first question is why does the code only speak about 120 volt circuits? What about ovens, stove tops, ranges and dryers? Thanks in advance! Second, why can't they design a whole house/panel solution? Better yet, something at the meter pan? Keep the content coming.
Code definitely discusses far more than just 120V circuits, so I'll leave that to further reading in the dreaded code book. :P
The whole house solution is something I've pondered before, and I've heard that there are things like main breakers with GFCI protection that exist (countries outside the US?), but the logic is kind of as follows: at the point of a plug on a circuit, 5mA of imbalance means something is wrong, but 4 is okay. If you've got 10 circuits going through your main, do you need wiggle room for 20mA of imbalance if each circuit on one of the phases if having that 4, or should it be less if some of the imbalances are canceling each other out cause they're on different phases? What if you have more/less that 10 circuits? If you add circuits later do you need to change to a more/less sensitive main? How does the mix of circuits that do/don't rely on the neutral factor into the balance your looking for? It all gets complicated very quickly when you go upstream of a single branch circuit that perhaps the sensitivity you'd need would be so much less that it's not really giving you the level of protection you need to actually protect you. And that's just GFCIs, AFCIs track wave forms so I'm not gonna get into that here.
You can feed sub-panels for garages using AFCI/GFCI breakers at your main, so there is kind of an implementation of this that does exist commonly, but if there is an easy answer out there to a whole house solution like I think you're talking about you need to stop wiring plugs and talk to Eaton/Square D about your engineering design and sell it to them for millions. lol
Oh my goodness!! Thanks for clearing up ground faults..
Alot of information here. As a 4th week apprentice totally green I don't even know if I should be learning all this right now. I'm not even in the school yet. Once I hit my 60 days at my job I can enroll into the schooling and they pay for it. I'm currently doing pre-fab work for the company for commercial work. I like to know what I'm working on so these videos come in handy. My question is, do you think I should get ahead of the game and learn all of this now or just take it slow and learn as I go?
I’ve always explained a GFCI as a doorman. He’s constantly counting electrons entering the building. For example:10 in 10 out, if he only counts 9 out. He shuts down & locks doors until number 10 is accounted for.
There's a couple videos of people in these arc suits or safety suits (Don't know their proper term) get blown up by the very equipment they're working on. The explosion was so blinding that the video was nothing but light at the moment. Immediately after, you can see them get up and continue their work. Technology is amazing.
Excellent information, thank you a ton.
Have arc fault breaker’s gotten better from when they first came out? My house had Arc faults and everytime I used a vacuum cleaner or hairdryer it would trip the breaker. I changed them all out to thermal magnetic.
When was your house built? I am assuming it required AFCI breakers as they are about 10x or more than a standard breaker. This will mean something when the house is sold.
I had a AFCI breaker that I thought was bad, but a new one tripped the same way. It ended up the toaster was the problem. Your vacuum might be the problem.
That said, the currently sold ones seem to be programmed to ignore some noisy motors.
AFCIs are notorious for this kind of "nuisance tripping", but that being said I've talked with electricians who were journeyman before AFCIs were required anywhere who have said they've never had an issue, the only issue is people plugging in old things (particularly vacuums) that have internal components that are breaking down but still functional.
Basically the way to test isn't does my vacuum/hair dryer work on a normal plug to see if the problem is the AFCI, it's does a *new* vacuum/hair dryer work on the AFCI circuit to see if the problem is the old device.
All you needed to do was remove the neutral wire from the breaker and put the load neutral back onto the neutral buss. The electronic circuit board uses the curly cord neutral to complete its circuit. Without that connected the AFCI breaker becomes a regular thermal mag.
As time went by there were more arc signatures loaded into the breakers and yes they got better, also Electricans got better at installing wiring, no more apprentices hammering staples in on an angle etc.
My house is newer (6 years old) and all of the outlet circuits are on arc fault breakers. I can honestly say I have not experienced any instance of breakers tripping when they shouldn't.
@@normILL
Interesting thought, I can believe that.
Would imagine that plugging in something like a shopvac or hair dryer that is switched on would do the same.
I haven't had the pleasure of dealing with these afci breakers yet. Doesn't sound like fun.
Thanks for the great information. This video was made three years ago. Since then, has the NEC changed the code so that all receptacles in a kitchen need to be GFCI? (Even behind the refrigerator)
I like your shows because you do a good job explaining the whole situation thanks for your knowledge
Ever thought of doing a video on a truck/van set up? Probably already have one I just gotta go back further!
The graphics and sound effect do the video great justice!
Putting a GFCI behind a kitchen refrigerator is absolutely absurd.
Great video. Now what is all that stuff on the wall behind you?
You guys do great videos, many thanks. Can you give an explanation of how to use a plug on neutral sub panel where all circuits must be both arc fault and Ground fault, if this is possible. thanks
Great information, but I'm seeing people not want Arc-Fault and Ground Fault breakers seems they see the cost of the product too high, just want a outlet inline. NEC codes have manufacture input and they made the pricing higher then needed. I do (try) talking in to dual function if possible. Still having complaints on main disconnects at the meter being turned off as some neighborhood kids jokes.
Excellent editing and great information!!
This is one of the best video ever!!! Do you know the difference between siemers type qaf and type qaf2? Two of the three QAFs are no longer functioning. Is type QAF2 offer more protection then the QAF?
Residential here. I just got hired on to do Solar installations, so I hope by the time I go back to doing general residential stuff the Code has finally taken the jump to say all stuff needs both AFCI & GFCI protection. It's always so silly trying to explain to a customer why it's only really needed in some areas when the whole case to bring them into code compliance is safety, just not this important safety feature *everywhere*, though we get closer to that every 3 years. lol
One accident that can happen even with a ground fault breaker or receptacle is when the ground terminal is broken or internally not connected on the male plug of an extension cord. The ground wire in the cord can now mimic the hot wire and give a nice shock if you are wet even with no load. The power delivered can increase as the load increases. Grounded tools create a large surface area to connect to your hand or body to exasperate this effect. The longer the extension cord the better the shock.
Sincerely,
William McCormick
Excellent! Good job man!
Thank you so much man, you explain in a minutes what I'm trying to learn from a long time, just one question, if you install a dual function breaker in kitchen sink or in bathroom receptacles do I have to install a GFCI receptacle?
No
Love seeing Johnny-5 whenever you say "short circuit" !
Great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Watch a ton of your videos for help in the field and in class! Just wondering if you could make a video on wire joints? 3 wire joint and 4 wire joint tips and tricks? Need some help
Hey Dustin really great videos!, I love the way you teach and your passion about electricity can you please do one about ballasts? (I know you did one about the HID light ballasts) the working, different types (dimming etc.) and wiring, thanks in advance!
Nice when another electrician watches and comments on his videos.
Great video as always. Question on the GFI breakers with the neutral pigtail. If you have a couple of branch circuits to an area requiring protection like a pool, kitchen sink area, etc and you have just about room in your conduit to pull another hot so you will be sharing the neutral, will the breaker for the new hot function properly without a dedicated neutral? If not is there a way to make that new hot GFI protected? Possibly installing a GFI receptacle? Or must that new hot be paired with its own neutral?
U cannot share a neutral with gfci..it will trip due to 2 different loads on the same neutral not to mention it could overheat the common neutral connection..and if u do decide to share a neutral it must be on a double pole breaker..so when power is tripped on one circuit..both are tripped...in my opinion shared neutrals shared NEVER be allowed..not an electrician here..just my thoughts.
This is a great video and you are a great teacher. Thank You
Would really like to see a actual arc explosion to show the devastation that you speak of. I wonder if UL or a Utility Company would give you access to some of their testing videos or surveillance videos...
There are plenty of electrical arc videos available on YT.
Imagine the sun briefly being beside you.
I had a 4 AWG ground vaporize once when installing it touched both legs of an older (80s) load center. I had an instant sunburn, copper infused into my glasses, and more small beads of copper around the room than I could count.
I was lucky.
Most likely not, that would be like having a video camera behind your panel cover in your home.
Nice video. Was wondering if there are any circuits it wouldnt make sense to use a DF breaker on in a home? I get customers with young children or folks that previously in their lives had a house fire that want top notch electrical protection, whole-house protection. Thoughts?
At 12:21 you state that if someone grabbed the Neutral, the breaker would trip because it would sense that "Neutral had dropped all of a sudden". Normally a GFCI would not trip just from someone touching Neutral. The only way that would happen, even if there were a load connected to the circuit, is if the person simultaneously touched Neutral and the Hot side of the circuit. Earth ground, the ground wire and Neutral are all bonded together back at the main panel so there is no difference between touching Neutral and touching the earth itself or touching a ground wire, even if Neutral is coming through a load and carrying current, As long as it has a direct path back to the panel, the current will go that way, not through a person. Obviously the Hot side is a different story. If you touch Hot simultaneously with the earth, Neutral or a ground wire you will get a shock and if it happens through a GFCI breaker, the breaker will trip.