Radio Control Trumpeter 1:200 Titanic Build Part 72 - Anchor Crane
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- This is the seventy-second in a series of videos I’m going to produce to document the building of my Trumpeter 1:200 model Titanic. In this episode I cover:
Painting and fitting of:
- The Anchor Crane
- The cargo cranes on the poop deck.
- The aft stream anchor.
- The guide ropes for the anchor crane.
If you want to see more regular updates have a look at my Instagram page (same name as the channel). I post photos as I'm building there so you don't have to wait for the videos to be edited!
Electronics Help:
TH-cam Videos:
• A simple guide to elec...
• Basic Electronics For ...
Books:
Electronics for Today and Tomorrow:
www.amazon.co....
Electronics:
www.amazon.co....
Full Ship Circuit Diagram:
drive.google.c...
Google Drive (with components and references):
drive.google.c...
Thanks to Titanic Honor and Glory for the wonderful reference material:
titanichg.com
Notice Board Article:
www.titanic-cad...
List of parts used:
Titanic a Model Makers Guide Book:
www.amazon.co....
Tamiya Saw:
www.emodels.co...
Amateur 3D Printing (Source of interior furniture):
/ 3dprintingwoodstock
Figures:
torifactory.co...
torifactory.co...
www.partworkup...
Toms Modelworks Deck Chairs:
www.tomsmodelw...
Woodies Model Works Photo Etch:
www.woodysmode...
Female two way connector:
www.mouser.co....
Male two way connector:
www.mouser.co....
Facebook page for this model: / 495723057755975
Isopropyl Alcohol for cleaning (you can get this everywhere).
Brass Domes:
www.minibrass....
Modeling Saw:
www.amazon.co....
Floor Tiles:
drive.google.c...
Airbrush:
www.amazon.co....
Dark Grey:
www.wonderland...
Lighter Grey:
www.wonderland...
Wood Colour:
www.wonderland...
Soldering Iron:
cpc.farnell.co...
Soldering Iron Tips:
cpc.farnell.co...
Solder:
www.rapidonlin...
Stand:
www.rapidonlin... Extractor: www.rapidonlin...
Solder Wick:
www.rapidonlin...
Solder Sucker (or desoldering pump):
www.rapidonlin... Snips (wire cutters): www.rapidonlin...
Switching Regulator (power supply board):
uk.rs-online.c...
Potentiometer:
uk.rs-online.c...
LED Strip:
www.lamps2udir...
Small LEDs with wires already attached: www.ebay.co.uk...
PWM Board:
www.ebay.co.uk...
Fuse Holder:
www.amazon.co.... Holder/dp/B00904N85G/ref=asc_df_B00904N85G
Music (with thanks):
- www.bensound.c...
- Rain Fuse - French Fuse
Those cranes certainly give new meaning to the phrase 'I like the cut of your jib'. After all these years of having an interest in Titanic, it was only upon seeing the anchor and crane in place that I realised, I have no idea how this piece of equipment functioned.
Haha well yes. There’s plenty of kit that I have only recently discovered the use for on this ship. It’s remarkable how much stuff she had on her
Great work Robbie..I wish I had seen this before I did my cranes. Brilliant tip about painting them black first..:)
Hi Shane,
It was a happy discovery! I wish I had done it on my other cranes from earlier in the build! We live and learn I guess 🙂
Hi Rob. Yes your anchor crane journey brought that area into focus for the first time for me as you can imagine. As for the funnel stays I was thinking of using the fittings but also use that elasticated lycra to replace the cables. However, food for thought! The cranes look good, don't forget the decals!! My stern cranes have to be painted brown! Great little video as usual pointing the way forward. Current state of play: hull plating 7 out of 10 fabricated! Regards JH ⚓
Hello John!
I’ll be interested to see your funnel stays, they will certainly look better with the elastic cord. Good note on those decals! I need to get on with them, totally forgot I had them!
Speak soon,
Robbie
As far as how big the Olympic class ships were, I recently bought a 1:350 scale model of Titanic and a 1:350 scale model of the Japanese battleship Yamato (the largest battleship ever built) and they are nearly the same length. So yeah, for their time, the Olympics were massive.
Yeah it’s striking. Always think it’s hard to really get the size until you see people standing next to them. Then crikey they look substantial!
Nice, new TMBG upload, keep the steam pressure up 😄👌👍
I think you did right with crane cables not being even with each other as that looks more realistic.
Hi Mark, thanks for that. Never easy to know what to do with these things! The decision also makes things a lot easier! So it’s a win win for me 😛
Can you do the keel at the very bottom of the ship and the bottom of the ship's plates were the keel is and also can you make a real fabric flags for the ship I think it would make the ship more realistic
Hi there, I might do the plating on the hull bottom at some point. But it’s an invasive job at this stage of the build! Flags will be done right at the end of the build, along with the rigging 🙂
@12:21 The Anchor crane is now at a 180 degree position on the real Titanic wreck also the hatch cover in the left of this shot, blow off and struck the Anchor crane when the ship hit the bottom of the Atlantic. James Cameron video animation evidence of this is on TH-cam
I know, makes you think about the extreme forces the ship went under after she sank!
Hi, still enjoying your build, excellent work both modelling and film making. My thoughts and experience with various c.a./ superglues, the slower it sets, the stronger the bond. Rule of thumb, c,a, doesn't stick to cured c.a. as good as on unglued surfaces. Accelerator can make thin c.a. joints brittle sometimes. That said, it's a really useful and versatile product. I am interested in other peoples views.
Thanks for your comment on the model and videos 🙂.
Re glue, this is good to hear, as I say in the video very much my thinking too but hard to know. Thank you for weighing in on the debate!
You need to add realistic areas of rust along the hull of the model at some point.
He did that ages ago
I have done most of that already, see my earlier videos. Mainly dry brushed. The only weathering I have left to do is the stuff on drain pipes etc
Pardon me if I missed it, but I don't recall seeing a video showing how you secure the bow anchor over the securing bolt?
Ah no you’re correct, I’ll touch on that briefly in the next video, but it’s not very sophisticated! A couple of tidily magnets in the anchor and a couple inlaid into the decking
Will you be putting Rose and Jack on the bow?
I absolutely hope not as that would not be realistic to the real ship.
That would ruin ALL realism and wreck everything he should tell the story of the real ship with its real passengers.
Jack and Rose can go suck butt.
@@kingtigercrownestate9102 LOL, why don't you tell us how you really feel?? It was just a question, I don't care either way as it is HIS model, but lets not forget.... it's a model. There is a hard limit to the "realism" this project can obtain. @TMBG, I have enjoyed all your videos and look forward to watching the final details come together. Cheers, and crack on. 🙂
Hi there, I don’t think l will tbh. I have a 3D printed figure so if people want to see it I am more than happy to paint it up and pop it on to take a few snaps! But I doubt I’ll keep it there, I reckon it would be freezing right at the bow, and windy too! Rose’s hair would be a total mess 😛
I take it this 'kicker' leaves no residue or spoil the paint work?
Hi there, no it dosent. It’s very odd stuff, and it evaporates almost immediately.
It’s not so good for large glue areas though because it tends to make the glue go a sort of milky white. So fine for small areas but not so good for larger ones
@@TheModelBoatGuy good to know, thanks for the info 👍
can you the superstructure plating using woody's model works photo etch
Currently I’m not planning on doing that. Because my models RC and needs to go in water, im concerned this will make the model too too heavy.
Maybe when I stop sailing it I will add those areas 🙂
And also there's a bell on a wheelhouse you forgot to put on
Yeah I need to get round to that too, I have it somewhere!
@@TheModelBoatGuy what video are going to do next on the ship
Do you know what the Titanic bell on the Wheelhouse was used for
@@evanmillarch3974 I believe it was connected to the crows nest by a line, so when the crows nest bell rings so does the bridges!
Hello, how are you? Can you please help me? I ordered some china 3d parts and broke one when detaching the part. I still have one attempt, what is the best way to detach the part from the support. Thank you for your answer
Hi there,
Hot knife is the answer. If you watch my video on funnels when I make them I go through how you remove these parts. But it’s very delicate, use a blade that you have heated over a stove or a candle.
Additionally, be careful with resin. Make sure you wear gloves and a mask that removes particulates. Resin dust is very nasty stuff. Clean surfaces down fully after and I would suggest if you are sanding its best to do it under the flow of a tap so the dust doesn’t become airborne!
@@TheModelBoatGuy
Thank you very much for your answer, it's very kind of you. Keep up the good work and thank you for your videos.
First
Do you want a medal? Not exactly a constructive comment 🤷♂️
@@MartinFutter70 about as constructive as your reply mate. A comment left doesn't have to mean anything. I have watched every part of this journey. Just scroll on and enjoy your day. The comment isn't hurting anyone.