Why Flushing AC Systems Doesn't Work
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ย. 2013
- Scotty Kilmer, mechanic for the last 45 years, shows why flushing a broken AC system often does not work on modern cars. They've made the passageways inside the system so small, that flushing can't push crud or metal particles out anymore. So if your AC compressor blows, it's a good idea to replace the AC condenser, not just try to flush crud out of it.
Things I used in this video:
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3. Disposable Gloves: amzn.to/2zSRuxO
4. A penny
5. Common Sense
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Things I used in this video:
1. AC Flush: amzn.to/2AtXpIz
2. Angle Grinder: amzn.to/2BFNpdc
3. Disposable Gloves: amzn.to/2zSRuxO
4. A penny
5. Common Sense
6. Full HD Camera: amzn.to/2AvoEk7
7. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz
8. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf
9. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C
🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend:
www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer
❗️Check out the Scotty store:
goo.gl/RwhRGU
👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics:
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Scotty Kilmer is a modern car considered 2000 and up?
How many years before the condenser need to be replaced?
There is another reason the condenser channels are made so thin. Its a performance thing. For cooling and heating systems surface area is everything. Thinner channels allows for more cooling fins and more channels. This means more surface area for cooling and thus a better AC system.
Yes, the trade off is a condenser that clogs easily overtime. But with engineering its all about tradeoffs.
Scotty Kilmer would you recommend replacing the evaporator too?
Quick question. I'm replacing the compressor condenser and drier. Would it be worth me purely flushing the rest of the system with these parts removed?
changing the expansion valve is always a good idea.
Yes, other parts can be flushed if needed. But really, only the condenser and drier generally ever get metal pieces in them when the compressor blows, you'd only need to flush the lines going to those parts.
the evaporator has much bigger holes in the tubes, plus rarely does metal make it that far, it gets stuck in the expansion valve or condenser instead.
Since my cars are older I never would have thought about the newer thinned condenser coils. Thanks for the great video.
I love it when you do videos like this. c: They're short, informative, and involve some sort of "preventative" maintenance. That's the best kind of car repair. Haha, keep it up, Scotty!
they made those so cheaply you just have to replace the entire line assembly when the valve goes bad. Great Chrysler engineering.
Glad I watched this. I was thinking of using some A/C stop leak to fix a tiny leak I had but looking at that condenser it seems like it would clog super easily. Oh well. Just another reason for me to fix my a/c the right way. Thanks Scotty!
I can't agree more with this video. Took our 99 4runner, after I replaced only the compressor, to a local shop to have it recharged. Worked amazing for about one week, then nothing. I got to looking and found the line going directly from the compressor to the condensor was hot, but the condensor and other line were ambient temperature, telling me there was a clog at the condensor. Knock on wood, I don't think any real damage has been done but it none of the freon leaked out and the clutch would engage and run as normal when the button was pressed. I'd think the blockage would build up pressure and the pressure switch would see that and disengage the clutch but who knows.
Took it back to the same shop and they tell me all the freon leaked out from the compressor and it needs another one. Didn't specify where it leaked from (internal seals, housing, line fittings, etc). In hindsight I would've went with a new condensor, but at the time didn't think it needed it. O'Really's also said for the compressor to be warrantied that I'd have to buy a condensor and evaporator. I thought that was hogwash...the condensor part. Made a fool outta me. Thanks Scotty for the breakdown on the condensors!
Scotty you are the go to car God bud thank you on behalf of many and on behalf of my late best friend that pasted away, R.i.P Phil, he also was a car's man's man❗️. Thank you I will get a new condenser with bigger holes. P.s you are the man
This man just don't talk the talk he shows you the proof. Great video !!!
Whether you like this guy or not, he is honest and to the point. Thank you Mr. Kilmer for putting on a channel worth watching. Great knowledge and explanation.
Going to be replacing the ac compressor, condenser, and possibly the expansion/orifice tube soon and this helped a lot!
Scotty, you inspire me to become a better mechanic and not just an over glorified parts changer. Diagnosing problems is a lost art in auto repair. Too many guys in my shop come through acting like they are an experienced tech and they just make things worse and blame the car.
Diagnosing is an art. A mobile guy came and asked me to buy a new alternator and replaced it after I complained I could not start my 2013 Taco TRD sport. It ended up in dealer for 2k to get it completely fixed. Hope you now is the best mechanic in your area helping people.
Thank you so very much Scotty for Your advice and I love your videos, already had the condenser ordered from Rock Auto. My compressor's 20 years old and only making a 30 psi difference on the low side and I ordered one with a accumulator/dryer, seals in the package. Rock Auto recommends condenser replacement as well.
Thanks Scotty, I am presently changing the a/c compressor, dryer/accumulator, orifice tube and the condenser. You reinforced the need to replace the condenser.
they knock from worn bearings inside and need replacing. Squeaking is often a bad fan belt that drives them. But if not, a worn Ac clutch does that.
if ac works, condenser can last forever, it has no moving parts after all. Old ac systems should just be inspected for leaks every so often, and fix any leaks before something serious happens. Otherwise , car ac is a sealed system
Hey Scotty. It's also worth mentioning that it also pays to replace the expansion valve or line filter if there's any crap in the system. Any debris that gets past the condensor usually ends up trapped there too.
Agree on the whole flushing the system thing. The only exception is if you want to be sure that the evaporator and A/C lines are clean of any debris. The flush is somewhat useful there, but I find that compressed air is usually fine in those situations.
Scotty, you truly are a car nut! Love your videos man, you're my go-to any time I search for a DIY. Very helpful videos, keep it up!
many things can do that, but a weak compressor or clogging up orifice tube is most common if it's an american truck
the guy in this video is right and wrong, condensers on newer cars can't be flushed, he's right about that, they have to be replaced. however he's wrong about flushing, if you have compressor failure and metal and rubber debris get into the system, it needs to be flushed before putting it back in service. flushing removes the debris from the lines as well as contamination and old oil. I recommend changing the receiver/drier or accumulator anytime the system is opened or has been open for a extended period of time. if there was a catastrophic failure and debris and contamination is evident in the system, the receiver/drier or accumulator must be changed as well as the expansion valve or orifice tube, depending on which system it is.
James MosleyJiffy lube doesn't count as experience
zhbvenkhoReload I never claimed to work at jiffy lube. I don't know where you get your information from or why you even made a comment. so piss off you troll
AndiE McFuzzlepants remove the old components flush the system before you install the new components. you only need to flush the lines and evaporator core. depending on the system you must remove the orifice tube or expansion valve before you flush the evaporator core.
James Mosley Thanks for the advice. Condenser and pump need replace together, supply house says receiver dryer and orifice tube too. So basically remove all those parts and flush what's left before installing the new parts?
charredskeleton yes only flush what's left, the install your new parts. also pay attention to the direction you install the orifice tube, it will have an arrow pointing in the direction of flow.
Thanks for this info. I'm going to have to replace the compressor on my 2000 Chevy truck before summer and this info likely saved me $$ in the long run.
Thanks Scotty, a car guy, but not much experience with AC systems, your opinion is very valuable.
if it blows cold, just bypass it permanently , those electronics can be hell to diagnose and repair, bypassing them works fine.
Agree 100 %. The condenser was probably the root cause of the compressor failure. Always replace both.
What about the evaporator though?
@@shenghan9385 Like Scottie said, though, the first component after the compressor is the condenser / filter drier - so that's the one that's going to get the most crap deposited in it, which back up pressure and strain on the compressor. Change the condenser / filter drier.
The compressor is the root cause of tac failure,not the condensor
Thanx Scotty! Shep here.You might remember that I don't charge for my labour (or I charge a very reduced rate if they can pay))when I fix cars at my Synagogue. Now I have proof that I'm not fibbing when I tell my congregation members that the condenser needs to be replaced along with the compressor and receiver drier.Some people say I'm crazy not to charge for my labour.But my waistline shows I've had a lot of good meals (Kosher of course) from gr8full people.Your vids are a G-dsend! THANX!
Excellent video as always, Scott!
Scotty,
It's just silly to imply that modern cars are in any way inferior to their predecessors. Pre-1980s (or so) cars were basically disposable at the 100K miles mark. Today I own 6 cars, all of which have over 100K miles, and all of those are highly reliable. I've never replaced an alternator or starter in my '06 Nissan Frontier that has over 190K miles on it while on the late 60s through late 70s cars I drove and worked on as a kid those parts were replaced regularly.
Love your videos overall, but looking back at the "glory days" of automating is pure fantasy. (This is not to say that there aren't many cars from an earlier time that I don't lust after, but they were in no way more reliable or of a higher build quality.)
Thats true actually
Good thing you do not own modern POS Volkswagons. Break a lot at low mileage and are expensive to repair.
That's 100% backwards, the 80's is when auto manufactures got on board with the planned obsolescence, so most anything 1980s forwards is not made to last.
For example, my 1969 F250 is nearing 50 years old. My '07 F150 will not be around in 2057, but my 69 still will be.
And no, the cars didn't last only 100K, that's absurd, any engine is just broke in @ 100K. Only exception would be the air cooled VWs. Most cars from the 60's easily passed the 300K mark.
My wife's 2013 VW Beetle torpedoed itself at 47K. The timing chain slipped (yes its a chain) and if you know engines, you know the rest of the story. Luckily, it was still under the power-train warranty and now has a fresh new time bomb under the hood. According to the service tech, VW knows about the problem. But it doesn't usually happen until 80-100K. So most aren't covered by a warranty. Our car was an anomaly. Does the fix have a warranty. Nope. If it happens again, its on us. Tech's advice was to change the oil every 5k rather than the 10K VW recommends, keep the oil level on the upper end of the range, put another 40-50K on it, and unless VW steps up to the plate, get rid of it. That's a VW Tech saying that.
normally yes, I'd be cautious about chinese parts, but the condensers I've gotten so far all worked fine, never had a single one come back yet. and i've had plenty of delco condensers go bad after changing them.
if it only does it with the AC on, then the AC idle up valve is idling up too high, have it cleaned or replaced.
no, I have one but rarely use it. My built in mic is dolby 5, so it works well.
Do you think the condenser on my 97 7.3L diesel will be the same?
+Toby Williams yes, it is
These products are made cheaper and cheaper. And yet, they're expensive and break more often, and you as the car owner will gets the bill.
i finally gave up car ownership. Now i just rent or bike. i'm still on car repair tutorials though because my wife thinks i'm her designated car mechanic
yes, it does go both ways. And condensers are pretty simple devices, the chinese one's i've bought never gave problems in the future.
Thanks for this video. Recently my car ac was not working, the compressor was jam. The technician flush the system, replaced new valve, and filter. The ac was running normal for only two weeks then breakdown the compressor again. So they have to replace again the compressor, condenser and valve after removing old condenser, compressor and valve they flush the system and then fixing new compressor, condenser and valve.until now the system is working very well.
Thank you for your advice.
IF it's not leaking oil AND the metal is not hitting anything inside the engine ( you would hear that) you can drive it. I have MANY customers with dings in their oil pans.
believe me, I tried everything and I drink water like mad. But a 9 mm size stone in a tube that's normally the size of a spaghetti noodle has to be blasted out with a laser.
Same here. That sucker tried to kill me! Lol Hopefully never again.
Really informative, good video edit, straight to the point with proof. I like it!
Great info Scotty. Never realized how freaking small those passages in the condenser were ! Now that's SMALL !
I flushed hundreds and never had a problem. If the condenser cannot flow correctly replace it. Continuously circulating machines do that job just fine. If what you are saying is true then tell me why I don't have to redo my work!? Out of hundreds of systems repaired the 2 or 3 that came back always ended up being remanufactured compressors.
And Yes, there are times when you have to replace all the Parts but I would never make the claim that you "ALLWAYS" have to replace everything!
Furthermore, if that was the case, none of the manufactures would warranty without replacement of "ALL" the parts.
Also, when Flushing you need to "always" flow the solvent backwards and never in the direction the pump circulates.
The flush will only go through the tubes that aren't clogged. Any holes in the condenser that are clogged stay clogged. Just change them.
At the very least the ac will exchange heat better and blow a little colder, at worst your compressor will fail within a week.
It's like not changing an orface tube or expansion valve.
@@elmeradams8781 What part of what I said did you not understand? I have done hundreds. Not once have I had a fail from clogged Condenser. Heat exchange is either good or not.
Yes, there are times when you have to replace everything but experience tells me that this is not the case most of the time. I don't sell bad jobs! If the flush doesn't work simply replace, otherwise I will save my customer that cash.
And the condenser has absolutely nothing to do with an Orifice Tube or an Expansion Valve. If you knew what you are talking about you would know that Compressor Manufacturers will NOT warranty any Compressor if the Orifice Tube and Accumulator/Dryer is not replaced! Thermal Expansion Valves themselves do not have filters so they are only replaced as needed.
Same theory. The expansion valve, the orface tube, and the condenser all have tiny holes. That's why you replace them, not that they wear out.
I don't know how you can tell if a few tubes in the condenser are clogged or not, or maybe you're saying clogged or not it still works ok so don't replace it.
I've wanted to use thermal image camera, I'd bet you could see clogged passages even on working systems.
@@elmeradams8781 At this point it becomes painfully obvious you have no clue! Good luck!
Hey Scotty, Im getting a Condenser, AC Lines, and compressor from junk yard for a 1989 Mitsubishi Mighty Max. Apparently they dont make or rebuild condensers for my truck anymore. Will flush work on a 89 condenser?
+Abel “'Gunner'” Lynch yes, it's old enough
Thanks! +Scotty Kilmer
What about a 90 Honda Accord?
jack it up, pull on the driver's side wheel first and see if anything is worn and has play, like bad a frame bushings or torsion bar bushings which those often break.
Thanks for taking the time to make your video and share it
Almost back to normal now, just a lingering staph infection from poorly done knock out on the operating table. My advice, STAY AWAY from doctors whenever possible.
Your forgetting about the orifice line
Based scotty
nice middle finger at the end scotty lmao
LMAO.. I had to double check too... That's uncle Scotty! the one we give a pass on pretty much everything.
Your opinions on automotive A/C are voice of reason and experience my friend.
Brilliant, clear advice - Thank you Scotty.......all the way from London !
I like it when scotty says doing stuff to your car doesn't work because it makes me feel good about being lazy with my car
Hahahaha!! Me too 😂😂😂
Scotty, is my 1996 ford ranger xlt too "modern" to be flushed?
Thanks!
no,you can flush it
Awesome thank you for the helpful video
Scotty Kilmer Same Question for a 91 ford explorer ,, thanks for all the info
Thank you this has helped me stop thinking and stressing over what I should do. I'm buying a replacement.
thanks again Scotty. so many of your posts have been helpful .
Unhook both hoses on condenser... flush backwards with B12 chemtool... flows like new.
My uncle turn me on to B12 chemtool years ago. I use to use it in the gas tank all the time but stop using it on my new car with fuel injection I now use Lacus fuel injection cleaner.
shhhh, that doesnt get youtube views. ;)
if car overheats, changing the radiator can make AC work better, but I doubt that's your problem unless car is overheating.
Tanks Scott I never knew this... Thanks for the information.... Really enjoy your channel
You know Scotty, the long and short of it is, if your modern AC compressor blows, it's just going to really blow for you. Thanks for the video! You've definitely hit the nail on the head here.
10 AM central standard time, U.S. Go to google+ events, the show is there. You join google plus, which is free. Then you can just click on the google plus little icon on the top right corner of my scotty kilmer channel opening page on youtube on saturday morning. That will take you to the event. You can also join my google+ community Auto Repair With Scotty Kilmer, then you will get an e mail every friday telling you not to forget the upcoming Saturday morning show.
When you say "modern", what year is the cutoff? "Modern" is a relative term and my 97' lincoln town-car could be either/or depending on what one considers "modern".
different cut offs for different makers actually. Yours is not modern, you could flush it.
Thank you, Scotty! :)
Scotty Kilmer funny how relative "modern" is. To me anything with serpentine belts and fuel injection is modern!!
True, true.
Hi Scott my honda civic airconditioning do not engage I replaced the condenser fan compressor is new air controller I have checked
The pressure like u do in ur videos can u help
Another awesome video Scotty!
Is there a particular year or era, after which you would automatically replace the condenser with a failed compressor? I have some older and also newer cars and would like to know in case it happens.
Keep up the good work. Love this channel.
glad i did not flush mine great video
WOW those holes are so small. Are we going into nano-meter scale now or what!?
Efficiency
Less material is cheaper in some way
But more efficient at what it does
And lighter for a vehicle to carry
Win win win
Just making the crap disposable.
Lower cost (higher margin) plays a part. But weight/fuel economy and crash force dissipation (for some parts) are in play. That said, my Jeep Commander was in a basic fender bender. The fender was done and there was damage to all kinds of plastic. However, it was still derivable and didn't really look that bad. Repair cost paid by insurance - 6K!
Same thing Rock Auto recommended when I put a compressor/clutch/accumulator kit in my cart. But they also recommend to flush the rest of the system too. I am taking that to be flush the old parts that are staying on without any of the new parts installed yet.
Thanks Scotty. I love all your video. You know how to explain in a nice fun way. I am not a mechanic but Ive learned a lot about modern cars thanks to your videos :)
Hello, can i get away with getting a cheaper evaporator core off eBay than getting one from a dealer?
Lionel Davis you can try, just pray it fits right, many chinese made ones will not fit right, I found that out with experience
If I replace my condenser and my dryer do I still need to flush the system
I second this question. I'm looking to replace my compressor, condenser and dryer receiver as well.
@@gmax341 What kind of car and what's your symptoms? I'd say flushing the lines and evaporator is always a good idea. Could be metallic shavings residing in those areas.
WOW Never knew that scotty. Great piece of information thank you.
I too just replaced a rebuilt comp I had put in my 94 astro van 5 years ago. It eventually failed, from leakage. Went with Scottys info-that if a comp is just leaking, and when you pull it and drain its oil you DONT see any metal flakes in the oil--a flush MIGHT not be needed. I put the NEW comp,8ozs oil, hoses, accum, and orfice.pulled a vacuum all nite, closed off valves for 3hrs and checked-YaY NO LEAKS! Charged EXACTLY the 32ozs freon and It Cools SO GOOD! rebuilt comp=230 New=280. GO NEW!!!
It's not that the holes are too small to flush out, it's that cars that come from the factory using r-134a refrigerant use a parallel flow condenser instead of the long winding single tube that was used for r-12 condensers used. That's also where the myth that r-134a isn't as good as r-12 came from.
i heard that r12 is actually very dangerous to the atmosphere so im guessing by somehow continuing use of that global warming will become worse
So your saying you can flush them?
no you cant flush them. R12 is more efficent so it didnt need as many passages as r134a. R134a is not as good as R12 when it is used in a system designed for R12. If you ever do a conversion you might find your system sucks because you would need to change to condenser to a more efficient version designed for the new refrigerant.
no thanks on the cheap chinese condenser. i've got enough problems with my a/c system. don't need another one
American manufacturing corporation's fell victim to the greedy politician /taxman long ago. so they left USA. to start up in foreign countries aka: china and so on there began the end of the American manufacturing / jobs / leaders of quality product's. and the rise of the asian industrial complex. greed / envy will destroy everything ......................
Great and simple video!
Scotty, i love your videos, keep them coming!
Replacing the condenser makes sense, but wouldn't you STILL need to flush the system to remove contaminants anyway?
The condenser filtered most of the contamination and that made it fail. The cold side is larger bored and will not see much contamination.
So what you are saying is, Don't be dense about your condenser...
coolramone Lmfao
AC what you did there.
@@hammar324 LLP
James Mosley sounds right. If you don't flush when buying and replacing AC compressor, it's voids warranty. We replaced AC compresor on 2005 Corolla with a new one. Parts place where I picked it up told me about the flush and cabin filter replacement in order for system to function correctly. I believe Scotty was referring to just flushing vs flushing system out when replacing and servicing AC compressor with a new one. Good info.
love your videos you give a great answer to problems with cars thanks for you time
this dude is the shit
Thanks scotty for your valueable advice .
Dang Scotty im kinda new to your channel and love the content, i ran in to this video that is 5 years old and dude you look way younger! Ha! Keep up the good work👍
Absolutely right Scotty you’re right on. Thank you for your videos.
awesome advice. You just saved me a new compressor! Thanks again.
Click, Click, BOOM! You just showed me why I blew up two compressors in my old truck and why I have been to discouraged to mess with them other than a top off of refrigerant. I took residential and commercial heating, cooling, and refrigeration in school and I thought autos would be easy. They are if you watch the Scotty Kilmer Channel. Thanks Scotty! Ur awesome. So now my wifes car will get a filter dryer. orifice, and a condenser. Its charged but not much flow ATM.
Thanks for your help i appreciated it was the alternator on the 1998 ford Explorer thank you
Thank you so much Mr Kilmer..
Hi Scotty, thanks for your great videos!
I have a question for ya.
My dealership is replacing my car's ac compressor (it would blow warm air and sometimes it wouldn't blow air at all). Fortunately, my warranty covers it, however it doesn't cover the coolant since there was no leak.
I thought the coolant would be included in the compressor replacement. Is it correct to be charged for the coolant?
Hope to hear from you! :)
Hope you feel better Scotty...were all pulling for you!
nice videos scotty ,I have watched lots of yours videos,
Hi Scotty, Thanks for sharing. The AC in my BMW 320D is blowing hot air from the FRONT vents, and cold air from the REAR vents. Any idea what would be causing the hot air coming out the front? I do know that the system has plenty of AC refrigerant in it, so I assume it's a blockage or mechanical fault. Any thoughts?
Another great video, than you for the excellent help. Could you perhaps define the difference in what years auto mfg began using the smaller orifice condensers? I have a older (1988) car, and (1990) pick-up that the compressors have failed and needing replaced. Im thinking the vehicles of that age would be OK to flush the system, then change over to 134a? When changing over from r12 to 134a, do you always use peg 100 oil? Again, thanks for the good work.
Really good advice...thanks
Thanks for the tip!!
Good tip, thanks Scotty.
Wow ❗ Thank You for Clarity👏🏽🙌🏾👏🏽I just ruined a new compressor this way
depends on the model and make of course, but most cars less than 10 years old are made that way now.
I like watching your video, I learned a few tricks like brake line's what stop smells, oil leaks and gaskets, I thank you very much Scotty on TH-cam
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on TH-cam. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at How To Ask A Live Mechanic Car Questions Free On TH-cam . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video, so don’t miss them.
This is right on target....and I'm gonna show this video to a shop foreman at Firestone where their mechanic tried to flush a friends condenser last summer, only to have the entire system fail this year.... Good video, thanks for sharing it....
Agree!. I do have a question for you. How to calculate the correct amount of freon for a custom ac system like the ones used on muscle cars and specially with engine swaps with generic condensers and modern evaporators and some times an insane amount of ac hose lines... how to calculate the correct amount of freon for these cases? Thank you
Thanks Scotty for the heads-up warning about AC flush. I was planning on doing it. I had an accident where a storm blew a tree branch right through my front grille and poked a hole through my condenser. I replaced my condenser with a new one, the drier too, and the compressor too, and was planning on flushing my AC lines and evap with flush as a precaution against sludge buldup. But OK, Scotty says don't do it. OK, brother. I won't.
Very helpful. Thanks.
Good advice on this video. Logical & worked for me. On a cheap car it doesn't make sense to spend more than the cars worth to get the AC working again. Since replacing compressor, drier & pump over 2 yrs ago, system has been fine. All cheap Chinese components that cost less than $200 for the lot.