Things I used in this video: 1. AC Flush: amzn.to/2AtXpIz 2. Angle Grinder: amzn.to/2BFNpdc 3. Disposable Gloves: amzn.to/2zSRuxO 4. A penny 5. Common Sense 6. Full HD Camera: amzn.to/2AvoEk7 7. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz 8. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf 9. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C 🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend: www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer ❗️Check out the Scotty store: goo.gl/RwhRGU 👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics: goo.gl/ohy2cA
There is another reason the condenser channels are made so thin. Its a performance thing. For cooling and heating systems surface area is everything. Thinner channels allows for more cooling fins and more channels. This means more surface area for cooling and thus a better AC system. Yes, the trade off is a condenser that clogs easily overtime. But with engineering its all about tradeoffs.
Quick question. I'm replacing the compressor condenser and drier. Would it be worth me purely flushing the rest of the system with these parts removed?
Whether you like this guy or not, he is honest and to the point. Thank you Mr. Kilmer for putting on a channel worth watching. Great knowledge and explanation.
Yes, other parts can be flushed if needed. But really, only the condenser and drier generally ever get metal pieces in them when the compressor blows, you'd only need to flush the lines going to those parts.
I too just replaced a rebuilt comp I had put in my 94 astro van 5 years ago. It eventually failed, from leakage. Went with Scottys info-that if a comp is just leaking, and when you pull it and drain its oil you DONT see any metal flakes in the oil--a flush MIGHT not be needed. I put the NEW comp,8ozs oil, hoses, accum, and orfice.pulled a vacuum all nite, closed off valves for 3hrs and checked-YaY NO LEAKS! Charged EXACTLY the 32ozs freon and It Cools SO GOOD! rebuilt comp=230 New=280. GO NEW!!!
I love it when you do videos like this. c: They're short, informative, and involve some sort of "preventative" maintenance. That's the best kind of car repair. Haha, keep it up, Scotty!
Thanx Scotty! Shep here.You might remember that I don't charge for my labour (or I charge a very reduced rate if they can pay))when I fix cars at my Synagogue. Now I have proof that I'm not fibbing when I tell my congregation members that the condenser needs to be replaced along with the compressor and receiver drier.Some people say I'm crazy not to charge for my labour.But my waistline shows I've had a lot of good meals (Kosher of course) from gr8full people.Your vids are a G-dsend! THANX!
Scotty, you inspire me to become a better mechanic and not just an over glorified parts changer. Diagnosing problems is a lost art in auto repair. Too many guys in my shop come through acting like they are an experienced tech and they just make things worse and blame the car.
Diagnosing is an art. A mobile guy came and asked me to buy a new alternator and replaced it after I complained I could not start my 2013 Taco TRD sport. It ended up in dealer for 2k to get it completely fixed. Hope you now is the best mechanic in your area helping people.
I can't agree more with this video. Took our 99 4runner, after I replaced only the compressor, to a local shop to have it recharged. Worked amazing for about one week, then nothing. I got to looking and found the line going directly from the compressor to the condensor was hot, but the condensor and other line were ambient temperature, telling me there was a clog at the condensor. Knock on wood, I don't think any real damage has been done but it none of the freon leaked out and the clutch would engage and run as normal when the button was pressed. I'd think the blockage would build up pressure and the pressure switch would see that and disengage the clutch but who knows. Took it back to the same shop and they tell me all the freon leaked out from the compressor and it needs another one. Didn't specify where it leaked from (internal seals, housing, line fittings, etc). In hindsight I would've went with a new condensor, but at the time didn't think it needed it. O'Really's also said for the compressor to be warrantied that I'd have to buy a condensor and evaporator. I thought that was hogwash...the condensor part. Made a fool outta me. Thanks Scotty for the breakdown on the condensors!
Click, Click, BOOM! You just showed me why I blew up two compressors in my old truck and why I have been to discouraged to mess with them other than a top off of refrigerant. I took residential and commercial heating, cooling, and refrigeration in school and I thought autos would be easy. They are if you watch the Scotty Kilmer Channel. Thanks Scotty! Ur awesome. So now my wifes car will get a filter dryer. orifice, and a condenser. Its charged but not much flow ATM.
Hey Scotty. It's also worth mentioning that it also pays to replace the expansion valve or line filter if there's any crap in the system. Any debris that gets past the condensor usually ends up trapped there too. Agree on the whole flushing the system thing. The only exception is if you want to be sure that the evaporator and A/C lines are clean of any debris. The flush is somewhat useful there, but I find that compressed air is usually fine in those situations.
Thanks for this video. Recently my car ac was not working, the compressor was jam. The technician flush the system, replaced new valve, and filter. The ac was running normal for only two weeks then breakdown the compressor again. So they have to replace again the compressor, condenser and valve after removing old condenser, compressor and valve they flush the system and then fixing new compressor, condenser and valve.until now the system is working very well. Thank you for your advice.
if ac works, condenser can last forever, it has no moving parts after all. Old ac systems should just be inspected for leaks every so often, and fix any leaks before something serious happens. Otherwise , car ac is a sealed system
jack it up, pull on the driver's side wheel first and see if anything is worn and has play, like bad a frame bushings or torsion bar bushings which those often break.
Glad I watched this. I was thinking of using some A/C stop leak to fix a tiny leak I had but looking at that condenser it seems like it would clog super easily. Oh well. Just another reason for me to fix my a/c the right way. Thanks Scotty!
Scotty you are the go to car God bud thank you on behalf of many and on behalf of my late best friend that pasted away, R.i.P Phil, he also was a car's man's man❗️. Thank you I will get a new condenser with bigger holes. P.s you are the man
+HD Guy I had one rupture on a mack years ago. the shop replaced it in about 2 hours. just a few bolts and the 2 refrigerant lines. I told them it had ruptured and pointed to the oil that sprayed all over the place. "that don't mean nothin" the mechanic said as he prepared to charge it. started the truck up and it sprayed all the new stuff out. "well, I reckon it has a hole in it." duh
James Mosley sounds right. If you don't flush when buying and replacing AC compressor, it's voids warranty. We replaced AC compresor on 2005 Corolla with a new one. Parts place where I picked it up told me about the flush and cabin filter replacement in order for system to function correctly. I believe Scotty was referring to just flushing vs flushing system out when replacing and servicing AC compressor with a new one. Good info.
normally yes, I'd be cautious about chinese parts, but the condensers I've gotten so far all worked fine, never had a single one come back yet. and i've had plenty of delco condensers go bad after changing them.
the guy in this video is right and wrong, condensers on newer cars can't be flushed, he's right about that, they have to be replaced. however he's wrong about flushing, if you have compressor failure and metal and rubber debris get into the system, it needs to be flushed before putting it back in service. flushing removes the debris from the lines as well as contamination and old oil. I recommend changing the receiver/drier or accumulator anytime the system is opened or has been open for a extended period of time. if there was a catastrophic failure and debris and contamination is evident in the system, the receiver/drier or accumulator must be changed as well as the expansion valve or orifice tube, depending on which system it is.
zhbvenkhoReload I never claimed to work at jiffy lube. I don't know where you get your information from or why you even made a comment. so piss off you troll
AndiE McFuzzlepants remove the old components flush the system before you install the new components. you only need to flush the lines and evaporator core. depending on the system you must remove the orifice tube or expansion valve before you flush the evaporator core.
James Mosley Thanks for the advice. Condenser and pump need replace together, supply house says receiver dryer and orifice tube too. So basically remove all those parts and flush what's left before installing the new parts?
charredskeleton yes only flush what's left, the install your new parts. also pay attention to the direction you install the orifice tube, it will have an arrow pointing in the direction of flow.
Hi Scotty: I have been struggling for years with A/C problems and probably pissed away $4,000.00 or more on my 2 full size chevy blazers and my two 2 door tahoes and this Vid just solved all my problems and frustration. I changed and recharged my 1999 2 dr. chevy Tahoe yesteday and it went from 78 at best now its 56 % on max You are awesome insight is so very appreciated!!! I have a new problem in my 1994 2 door Blazer. I restored the ext. and Int. put it back on the road. When i press the brakes the radio lights go out. I looked on line. People have the problem, no one seems to have fixed it. I have gone through all the tail light bulbs, the wiring and under the dash twice now trying to find frayed wire or ground disconnected. Now have the engine compartment in pieces. Still can't find the problem. Do you or any of your fellow mechanics have any experience with this? Thanks Jonathan Dexter. you can email me direct jonathandexter 1968 at g male dot com. Of course put that together like a normal email. again thanks!!!
I once had a 1989 S10 Blazer 2-door. Replaced the rear 6x9 speakers and after chasing very strange electrical symptoms, realized I put one of the cover plate screws through a wire bundle, shorting out several wires. So you may also have a shorted out wire bundle somewhere, after all the restoration. Good luck!
Almost back to normal now, just a lingering staph infection from poorly done knock out on the operating table. My advice, STAY AWAY from doctors whenever possible.
Scotty: I replaced my compressor and orifice on my 97 GMC K1500. When I evacuated and tried to recharge the system, I had low and high pressures all over the place and no cooling. I finally replaced the condenser, which was clogged. Now the truck shows the proper pressures and blows 42 degrees! Thanks for the video!
Scotty, It's just silly to imply that modern cars are in any way inferior to their predecessors. Pre-1980s (or so) cars were basically disposable at the 100K miles mark. Today I own 6 cars, all of which have over 100K miles, and all of those are highly reliable. I've never replaced an alternator or starter in my '06 Nissan Frontier that has over 190K miles on it while on the late 60s through late 70s cars I drove and worked on as a kid those parts were replaced regularly. Love your videos overall, but looking back at the "glory days" of automating is pure fantasy. (This is not to say that there aren't many cars from an earlier time that I don't lust after, but they were in no way more reliable or of a higher build quality.)
That's 100% backwards, the 80's is when auto manufactures got on board with the planned obsolescence, so most anything 1980s forwards is not made to last. For example, my 1969 F250 is nearing 50 years old. My '07 F150 will not be around in 2057, but my 69 still will be. And no, the cars didn't last only 100K, that's absurd, any engine is just broke in @ 100K. Only exception would be the air cooled VWs. Most cars from the 60's easily passed the 300K mark.
My wife's 2013 VW Beetle torpedoed itself at 47K. The timing chain slipped (yes its a chain) and if you know engines, you know the rest of the story. Luckily, it was still under the power-train warranty and now has a fresh new time bomb under the hood. According to the service tech, VW knows about the problem. But it doesn't usually happen until 80-100K. So most aren't covered by a warranty. Our car was an anomaly. Does the fix have a warranty. Nope. If it happens again, its on us. Tech's advice was to change the oil every 5k rather than the 10K VW recommends, keep the oil level on the upper end of the range, put another 40-50K on it, and unless VW steps up to the plate, get rid of it. That's a VW Tech saying that.
Thank you so very much Scotty for Your advice and I love your videos, already had the condenser ordered from Rock Auto. My compressor's 20 years old and only making a 30 psi difference on the low side and I ordered one with a accumulator/dryer, seals in the package. Rock Auto recommends condenser replacement as well.
Same thing Rock Auto recommended when I put a compressor/clutch/accumulator kit in my cart. But they also recommend to flush the rest of the system too. I am taking that to be flush the old parts that are staying on without any of the new parts installed yet.
Thanks Scotty, I am presently changing the a/c compressor, dryer/accumulator, orifice tube and the condenser. You reinforced the need to replace the condenser.
@@shenghan9385 Like Scottie said, though, the first component after the compressor is the condenser / filter drier - so that's the one that's going to get the most crap deposited in it, which back up pressure and strain on the compressor. Change the condenser / filter drier.
It may have been stated earlier but the condenser coil is the latest design called Microchannel. It has the advantage of being smaller and requiring less refrigerant in the system. It does have it's challenges but it is the current state of the air. It exists because of government regulations on refrigerants.
I flushed hundreds and never had a problem. If the condenser cannot flow correctly replace it. Continuously circulating machines do that job just fine. If what you are saying is true then tell me why I don't have to redo my work!? Out of hundreds of systems repaired the 2 or 3 that came back always ended up being remanufactured compressors. And Yes, there are times when you have to replace all the Parts but I would never make the claim that you "ALLWAYS" have to replace everything! Furthermore, if that was the case, none of the manufactures would warranty without replacement of "ALL" the parts. Also, when Flushing you need to "always" flow the solvent backwards and never in the direction the pump circulates.
The flush will only go through the tubes that aren't clogged. Any holes in the condenser that are clogged stay clogged. Just change them. At the very least the ac will exchange heat better and blow a little colder, at worst your compressor will fail within a week. It's like not changing an orface tube or expansion valve.
@@elmeradams8781 What part of what I said did you not understand? I have done hundreds. Not once have I had a fail from clogged Condenser. Heat exchange is either good or not. Yes, there are times when you have to replace everything but experience tells me that this is not the case most of the time. I don't sell bad jobs! If the flush doesn't work simply replace, otherwise I will save my customer that cash. And the condenser has absolutely nothing to do with an Orifice Tube or an Expansion Valve. If you knew what you are talking about you would know that Compressor Manufacturers will NOT warranty any Compressor if the Orifice Tube and Accumulator/Dryer is not replaced! Thermal Expansion Valves themselves do not have filters so they are only replaced as needed.
Same theory. The expansion valve, the orface tube, and the condenser all have tiny holes. That's why you replace them, not that they wear out. I don't know how you can tell if a few tubes in the condenser are clogged or not, or maybe you're saying clogged or not it still works ok so don't replace it. I've wanted to use thermal image camera, I'd bet you could see clogged passages even on working systems.
because i drive my cars for decades and would rather fix them than replace them. if you like throwing money away on cheaper designs, go right ahead. It is not more efficient cooling, it's just a cheaper way to make them work the same. the smaller holes actually strain the compressors more and they break down quicker that way.
10 AM central standard time, U.S. Go to google+ events, the show is there. You join google plus, which is free. Then you can just click on the google plus little icon on the top right corner of my scotty kilmer channel opening page on youtube on saturday morning. That will take you to the event. You can also join my google+ community Auto Repair With Scotty Kilmer, then you will get an e mail every friday telling you not to forget the upcoming Saturday morning show.
You know Scotty, the long and short of it is, if your modern AC compressor blows, it's just going to really blow for you. Thanks for the video! You've definitely hit the nail on the head here.
i finally gave up car ownership. Now i just rent or bike. i'm still on car repair tutorials though because my wife thinks i'm her designated car mechanic
IF it's not leaking oil AND the metal is not hitting anything inside the engine ( you would hear that) you can drive it. I have MANY customers with dings in their oil pans.
believe me, I tried everything and I drink water like mad. But a 9 mm size stone in a tube that's normally the size of a spaghetti noodle has to be blasted out with a laser.
DUDE! I want some of what your having. This video is LEGIT! Makes a lot of sense. Those channels are too tiny to try and move debris through, in an attempt to flush out ac system. Makes a lot of sense thanks bro for teaching me todays lesson. Scott if you did not show me a cutaway of that condenser, I would have never even thought about it. Very interesting.
Wow. You have a chemical that can DISOLVE METAL FLAKES? While at the SAME TIME NOT dissolving the metal lines, tubes, condenser, evaporator, and so on? Wow. You must already be a millionaire with THAT invention! Go sit down before you hurt yourself.
Hey Scotty, Im getting a Condenser, AC Lines, and compressor from junk yard for a 1989 Mitsubishi Mighty Max. Apparently they dont make or rebuild condensers for my truck anymore. Will flush work on a 89 condenser?
When you say "modern", what year is the cutoff? "Modern" is a relative term and my 97' lincoln town-car could be either/or depending on what one considers "modern".
Hi Scott my honda civic airconditioning do not engage I replaced the condenser fan compressor is new air controller I have checked The pressure like u do in ur videos can u help
My uncle turn me on to B12 chemtool years ago. I use to use it in the gas tank all the time but stop using it on my new car with fuel injection I now use Lacus fuel injection cleaner.
Scotty, I agree - just blow out the lines and evap only, do not run cleaner through the compressor, ac receiver drier , condenser etc. but what about the expansion valve - will cleaner move through an expansion valve?
@@gmax341 What kind of car and what's your symptoms? I'd say flushing the lines and evaporator is always a good idea. Could be metallic shavings residing in those areas.
Hey I have a 2000 Silverado my ac compressor went bad and I change my Oracle tube which was clogged. would I be okay by flushing the condenser or should I replace it.
Thanks for the quick response! I have 3 pressure switches on it should I replace them as well before I have someone Vac it down and charge the system? So far I have flushed the lines replace ac compressor dryer and condenser ..
Flushing is needed, especially if there's the black death inside. I always replace the condenser, since new ones are so cheap, and the receiver/dryer, even cheaper. And the orifice tube/expansion valve. And when the orifice tube/expansion valve are removed, depending on which type you have, then the evaporator and lines can be flushed. Evaporators rarely go bad, but getting to them or removing them can be tough. If the lines and evaporator are flushed, and the condenser and receiver dryer are replaced, along with the expansion valve or orifice tube, then the a/c system can be brought back to life when a new compressor is installed. If you see black death inside the system, the flush is mandatory or the new system will fail quickly. That black stuff is ground up aluminum from a failing compressor. If it gets inside a new compressor, it's toast. So you can't not flush, when it's needed.
Lower cost (higher margin) plays a part. But weight/fuel economy and crash force dissipation (for some parts) are in play. That said, my Jeep Commander was in a basic fender bender. The fender was done and there was damage to all kinds of plastic. However, it was still derivable and didn't really look that bad. Repair cost paid by insurance - 6K!
scotty, i have a 1996 chevy caprice, i went through 2 compressors after original one went out,all i did is changed the compressors with the acumelator and the orifice tube, but never changed the condensor its the original one,now my compressor needs changing,shall i buy a new condesor or that 1996 condesor have big fins or small one like you showed here ? million thanks again scotty no one does what you do here.
It's not that the holes are too small to flush out, it's that cars that come from the factory using r-134a refrigerant use a parallel flow condenser instead of the long winding single tube that was used for r-12 condensers used. That's also where the myth that r-134a isn't as good as r-12 came from.
no you cant flush them. R12 is more efficent so it didnt need as many passages as r134a. R134a is not as good as R12 when it is used in a system designed for R12. If you ever do a conversion you might find your system sucks because you would need to change to condenser to a more efficient version designed for the new refrigerant.
New condensers are made that way to deal with the extra heat capacity of R134a. For a given system you have to pull more heat out of the refrigerant than you had to with R12 to get the same results. If a compressor fails it throws debris all throughout the system in most cases so things that can not be flushed of debris like the condenser have to be replaced. If the compressor has not failed but you have to open the system for another reason. You can simply clean the remaining oil charge out of a system and flush most of the components for reuse.
American manufacturing corporation's fell victim to the greedy politician /taxman long ago. so they left USA. to start up in foreign countries aka: china and so on there began the end of the American manufacturing / jobs / leaders of quality product's. and the rise of the asian industrial complex. greed / envy will destroy everything ......................
Am i correct to assume that when you replace the condenser you don't need to flush because the condenser is an effective filter, protecting the expansion valve and downstream structures? Or, would you flush the rest of the system anyway?
Scotty I also have a question, i had my AC compressor replaced, but when I turn on the AC, I heard a buzzing sound, the sound sounds like it's accelerating with me when I accelerate and step on the gas pedal, it does eventually goes away, but I was just wondering what that was because it only sounds like that when I turn on the AC.
Good advice on this video. Logical & worked for me. On a cheap car it doesn't make sense to spend more than the cars worth to get the AC working again. Since replacing compressor, drier & pump over 2 yrs ago, system has been fine. All cheap Chinese components that cost less than $200 for the lot.
Not sure if this will be seen but worth the shot. My girls ac was plowing coldish air so I had it flushed (Yeah I know now) and topped off. It now plows @ 65*F without the engine reved. If I have to replace something as it warms up, which part should I replace first? Watched your video on things not to do to your car. I had to replace her fuel pump (turned out to be the check valve) but the pump alone was $450!!! The filter, regulator, everything is in the fuel pump. That was a bummer.
Scotty, as I've become older and more experienced with my automobiles I've come to realize that when it comes to repairs, it is wiser to fix/replace "systems" as opposed o individual components. Which is what you are saying here. Example: If the radiator goes bad you are best off getting new hoses too, etc. The reason being that the strong new components will put more stress the older weaker components. Another breakdown is likely.
Hello Scotty, I have a 2010 VW Jetta and the AC system is not working well, sometimes it cools but not enough and others does not cool at all, I tried to recharge refrigerant but when I connect the gauge it shows in the red area of it, fan works when it is not cooling, what else can be? Shall the system need to be purged t take away air? Thanks
Wow never knew that....I have a 99 plymouth breeze...2.4 liter that had metal shaving throughout the entire A/C system...I blew out with an air compressor as much metal shavings as i could get...replace the evap canister and compressor...charged and bleed the system several times...a metal shaving actually sheared the rubber bleed valve, replaced it...(never replaced the condenser coil)...system has been working nicely since 2006...I think I was very lucky.
Hello Scotty -- I have miscalculated my PAG46 AC system for my 2000 Ford Excursion 5.4l -- I was going to have system evacuated and drain oil from my new condenser, totally replace the accumulator and can i flush or use compressed air in the evaporator to help in evacuating PAG out of that. I prefer not to have to remove that part again. I was also thinking of pulling the compressor and drain and then replace with the 7oz. of PAG46 it was shipped with. I am hoping not to bother with the rear system evaporator and lines. I will also install a new orifice tube. It cools but as well as it should -- I did recheck the orifice tube and that clearly showed me that there is too much PAG in there. Recommendations are welcome. Thanks Scotty
So I replaced my compressor and condenser and ac lines and orifice and had it vacuumed out and charged 6 years ago. It ran perfect. Then I let it sit 6 years. I finally decided to get it running again. Now the compressor kicks on and off like every ten seconds. I check it to see if it leaked over that time and it’s still fully charged. What could it be and can I try something before having someone look at it again? I just cleaned the condenser fins but don’t know what to try next. Thanks
hello. I have a 2005 ford expedition: I put a can of freon with the green paint to see where is leaking and found out that the compresor was all wet with the green pain but, the compressor is working right. should I replace the compresor or what should I do?
That is a micro channel condenser. It is not made to be cheaper, it’s made to be more efficient. The increased surface area for the refrigerant allows more heat transfer.
I have a 2008 honda pilot. It has a bad compressor. I plan to change both compressor and the condenser. Based on this video it's best to changed the condenser because it may be clogged. Does evaporator need to be changed as well?
Scotty - 2000 Ford Taurus. Have all new replacement lines, compressor and condenser all from Ford. The only thing I'm not changing is the evaporator core. Someone injected leak sealer into the car before I bought it, and it didn't last. Should I bite the bullet and change the evaporator core as well since that sealer stuff was used? or flush the evap core?
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Scotty Kilmer is a modern car considered 2000 and up?
How many years before the condenser need to be replaced?
There is another reason the condenser channels are made so thin. Its a performance thing. For cooling and heating systems surface area is everything. Thinner channels allows for more cooling fins and more channels. This means more surface area for cooling and thus a better AC system.
Yes, the trade off is a condenser that clogs easily overtime. But with engineering its all about tradeoffs.
Scotty Kilmer would you recommend replacing the evaporator too?
Quick question. I'm replacing the compressor condenser and drier. Would it be worth me purely flushing the rest of the system with these parts removed?
changing the expansion valve is always a good idea.
Whether you like this guy or not, he is honest and to the point. Thank you Mr. Kilmer for putting on a channel worth watching. Great knowledge and explanation.
the evaporator has much bigger holes in the tubes, plus rarely does metal make it that far, it gets stuck in the expansion valve or condenser instead.
Yes, other parts can be flushed if needed. But really, only the condenser and drier generally ever get metal pieces in them when the compressor blows, you'd only need to flush the lines going to those parts.
This man just don't talk the talk he shows you the proof. Great video !!!
I too just replaced a rebuilt comp I had put in my 94 astro van 5 years ago. It eventually failed, from leakage. Went with Scottys info-that if a comp is just leaking, and when you pull it and drain its oil you DONT see any metal flakes in the oil--a flush MIGHT not be needed. I put the NEW comp,8ozs oil, hoses, accum, and orfice.pulled a vacuum all nite, closed off valves for 3hrs and checked-YaY NO LEAKS! Charged EXACTLY the 32ozs freon and It Cools SO GOOD! rebuilt comp=230 New=280. GO NEW!!!
I love it when you do videos like this. c: They're short, informative, and involve some sort of "preventative" maintenance. That's the best kind of car repair. Haha, keep it up, Scotty!
Thanks Scotty, a car guy, but not much experience with AC systems, your opinion is very valuable.
Thanx Scotty! Shep here.You might remember that I don't charge for my labour (or I charge a very reduced rate if they can pay))when I fix cars at my Synagogue. Now I have proof that I'm not fibbing when I tell my congregation members that the condenser needs to be replaced along with the compressor and receiver drier.Some people say I'm crazy not to charge for my labour.But my waistline shows I've had a lot of good meals (Kosher of course) from gr8full people.Your vids are a G-dsend! THANX!
Scotty, you inspire me to become a better mechanic and not just an over glorified parts changer. Diagnosing problems is a lost art in auto repair. Too many guys in my shop come through acting like they are an experienced tech and they just make things worse and blame the car.
Diagnosing is an art. A mobile guy came and asked me to buy a new alternator and replaced it after I complained I could not start my 2013 Taco TRD sport. It ended up in dealer for 2k to get it completely fixed. Hope you now is the best mechanic in your area helping people.
I can't agree more with this video. Took our 99 4runner, after I replaced only the compressor, to a local shop to have it recharged. Worked amazing for about one week, then nothing. I got to looking and found the line going directly from the compressor to the condensor was hot, but the condensor and other line were ambient temperature, telling me there was a clog at the condensor. Knock on wood, I don't think any real damage has been done but it none of the freon leaked out and the clutch would engage and run as normal when the button was pressed. I'd think the blockage would build up pressure and the pressure switch would see that and disengage the clutch but who knows.
Took it back to the same shop and they tell me all the freon leaked out from the compressor and it needs another one. Didn't specify where it leaked from (internal seals, housing, line fittings, etc). In hindsight I would've went with a new condensor, but at the time didn't think it needed it. O'Really's also said for the compressor to be warrantied that I'd have to buy a condensor and evaporator. I thought that was hogwash...the condensor part. Made a fool outta me. Thanks Scotty for the breakdown on the condensors!
Since my cars are older I never would have thought about the newer thinned condenser coils. Thanks for the great video.
they knock from worn bearings inside and need replacing. Squeaking is often a bad fan belt that drives them. But if not, a worn Ac clutch does that.
Click, Click, BOOM! You just showed me why I blew up two compressors in my old truck and why I have been to discouraged to mess with them other than a top off of refrigerant. I took residential and commercial heating, cooling, and refrigeration in school and I thought autos would be easy. They are if you watch the Scotty Kilmer Channel. Thanks Scotty! Ur awesome. So now my wifes car will get a filter dryer. orifice, and a condenser. Its charged but not much flow ATM.
Hey Scotty. It's also worth mentioning that it also pays to replace the expansion valve or line filter if there's any crap in the system. Any debris that gets past the condensor usually ends up trapped there too.
Agree on the whole flushing the system thing. The only exception is if you want to be sure that the evaporator and A/C lines are clean of any debris. The flush is somewhat useful there, but I find that compressed air is usually fine in those situations.
Thanks for this video. Recently my car ac was not working, the compressor was jam. The technician flush the system, replaced new valve, and filter. The ac was running normal for only two weeks then breakdown the compressor again. So they have to replace again the compressor, condenser and valve after removing old condenser, compressor and valve they flush the system and then fixing new compressor, condenser and valve.until now the system is working very well.
Thank you for your advice.
if ac works, condenser can last forever, it has no moving parts after all. Old ac systems should just be inspected for leaks every so often, and fix any leaks before something serious happens. Otherwise , car ac is a sealed system
jack it up, pull on the driver's side wheel first and see if anything is worn and has play, like bad a frame bushings or torsion bar bushings which those often break.
Glad I watched this. I was thinking of using some A/C stop leak to fix a tiny leak I had but looking at that condenser it seems like it would clog super easily. Oh well. Just another reason for me to fix my a/c the right way. Thanks Scotty!
they made those so cheaply you just have to replace the entire line assembly when the valve goes bad. Great Chrysler engineering.
Scotty you are the go to car God bud thank you on behalf of many and on behalf of my late best friend that pasted away, R.i.P Phil, he also was a car's man's man❗️. Thank you I will get a new condenser with bigger holes. P.s you are the man
yes, it does go both ways. And condensers are pretty simple devices, the chinese one's i've bought never gave problems in the future.
Do you think this applies to a 2005 Colombia Frieghtliner truck?
+HD Guy I had one rupture on a mack years ago. the shop replaced it in about 2 hours. just a few bolts and the 2 refrigerant lines. I told them it had ruptured and pointed to the oil that sprayed all over the place. "that don't mean nothin" the mechanic said as he prepared to charge it. started the truck up and it sprayed all the new stuff out.
"well, I reckon it has a hole in it." duh
many things can do that, but a weak compressor or clogging up orifice tube is most common if it's an american truck
James Mosley sounds right. If you don't flush when buying and replacing AC compressor, it's voids warranty. We replaced AC compresor on 2005 Corolla with a new one. Parts place where I picked it up told me about the flush and cabin filter replacement in order for system to function correctly. I believe Scotty was referring to just flushing vs flushing system out when replacing and servicing AC compressor with a new one. Good info.
normally yes, I'd be cautious about chinese parts, but the condensers I've gotten so far all worked fine, never had a single one come back yet. and i've had plenty of delco condensers go bad after changing them.
if it only does it with the AC on, then the AC idle up valve is idling up too high, have it cleaned or replaced.
the guy in this video is right and wrong, condensers on newer cars can't be flushed, he's right about that, they have to be replaced. however he's wrong about flushing, if you have compressor failure and metal and rubber debris get into the system, it needs to be flushed before putting it back in service. flushing removes the debris from the lines as well as contamination and old oil. I recommend changing the receiver/drier or accumulator anytime the system is opened or has been open for a extended period of time. if there was a catastrophic failure and debris and contamination is evident in the system, the receiver/drier or accumulator must be changed as well as the expansion valve or orifice tube, depending on which system it is.
James MosleyJiffy lube doesn't count as experience
zhbvenkhoReload I never claimed to work at jiffy lube. I don't know where you get your information from or why you even made a comment. so piss off you troll
AndiE McFuzzlepants remove the old components flush the system before you install the new components. you only need to flush the lines and evaporator core. depending on the system you must remove the orifice tube or expansion valve before you flush the evaporator core.
James Mosley Thanks for the advice. Condenser and pump need replace together, supply house says receiver dryer and orifice tube too. So basically remove all those parts and flush what's left before installing the new parts?
charredskeleton yes only flush what's left, the install your new parts. also pay attention to the direction you install the orifice tube, it will have an arrow pointing in the direction of flow.
Hi Scotty: I have been struggling for years with A/C problems and probably pissed away $4,000.00 or more on my 2 full size chevy blazers and my two 2 door tahoes and this Vid just solved all my problems and frustration. I changed and recharged my 1999 2 dr. chevy Tahoe yesteday and it went from 78 at best now its 56 % on max You are awesome insight is so very appreciated!!! I have a new problem in my 1994 2 door Blazer. I restored the ext. and Int. put it back on the road. When i press the brakes the radio lights go out. I looked on line. People have the problem, no one seems to have fixed it. I have gone through all the tail light bulbs, the wiring and under the dash twice now trying to find frayed wire or ground disconnected. Now have the engine compartment in pieces. Still can't find the problem. Do you or any of your fellow mechanics have any experience with this? Thanks Jonathan Dexter. you can email me direct jonathandexter 1968 at g male dot com. Of course put that together like a normal email. again thanks!!!
I once had a 1989 S10 Blazer 2-door. Replaced the rear 6x9 speakers and after chasing very strange electrical symptoms, realized I put one of the cover plate screws through a wire bundle, shorting out several wires. So you may also have a shorted out wire bundle somewhere, after all the restoration. Good luck!
Almost back to normal now, just a lingering staph infection from poorly done knock out on the operating table. My advice, STAY AWAY from doctors whenever possible.
Your forgetting about the orifice line
Based scotty
Scotty: I replaced my compressor and orifice on my 97 GMC K1500. When I evacuated and tried to recharge the system, I had low and high pressures all over the place and no cooling. I finally replaced the condenser, which was clogged. Now the truck shows the proper pressures and blows 42 degrees! Thanks for the video!
Scotty,
It's just silly to imply that modern cars are in any way inferior to their predecessors. Pre-1980s (or so) cars were basically disposable at the 100K miles mark. Today I own 6 cars, all of which have over 100K miles, and all of those are highly reliable. I've never replaced an alternator or starter in my '06 Nissan Frontier that has over 190K miles on it while on the late 60s through late 70s cars I drove and worked on as a kid those parts were replaced regularly.
Love your videos overall, but looking back at the "glory days" of automating is pure fantasy. (This is not to say that there aren't many cars from an earlier time that I don't lust after, but they were in no way more reliable or of a higher build quality.)
Thats true actually
Good thing you do not own modern POS Volkswagons. Break a lot at low mileage and are expensive to repair.
That's 100% backwards, the 80's is when auto manufactures got on board with the planned obsolescence, so most anything 1980s forwards is not made to last.
For example, my 1969 F250 is nearing 50 years old. My '07 F150 will not be around in 2057, but my 69 still will be.
And no, the cars didn't last only 100K, that's absurd, any engine is just broke in @ 100K. Only exception would be the air cooled VWs. Most cars from the 60's easily passed the 300K mark.
My wife's 2013 VW Beetle torpedoed itself at 47K. The timing chain slipped (yes its a chain) and if you know engines, you know the rest of the story. Luckily, it was still under the power-train warranty and now has a fresh new time bomb under the hood. According to the service tech, VW knows about the problem. But it doesn't usually happen until 80-100K. So most aren't covered by a warranty. Our car was an anomaly. Does the fix have a warranty. Nope. If it happens again, its on us. Tech's advice was to change the oil every 5k rather than the 10K VW recommends, keep the oil level on the upper end of the range, put another 40-50K on it, and unless VW steps up to the plate, get rid of it. That's a VW Tech saying that.
Going to be replacing the ac compressor, condenser, and possibly the expansion/orifice tube soon and this helped a lot!
Thank you so very much Scotty for Your advice and I love your videos, already had the condenser ordered from Rock Auto. My compressor's 20 years old and only making a 30 psi difference on the low side and I ordered one with a accumulator/dryer, seals in the package. Rock Auto recommends condenser replacement as well.
Same thing Rock Auto recommended when I put a compressor/clutch/accumulator kit in my cart. But they also recommend to flush the rest of the system too. I am taking that to be flush the old parts that are staying on without any of the new parts installed yet.
if it blows cold, just bypass it permanently , those electronics can be hell to diagnose and repair, bypassing them works fine.
Thanks Scotty, I am presently changing the a/c compressor, dryer/accumulator, orifice tube and the condenser. You reinforced the need to replace the condenser.
Agree 100 %. The condenser was probably the root cause of the compressor failure. Always replace both.
What about the evaporator though?
@@shenghan9385 Like Scottie said, though, the first component after the compressor is the condenser / filter drier - so that's the one that's going to get the most crap deposited in it, which back up pressure and strain on the compressor. Change the condenser / filter drier.
The compressor is the root cause of tac failure,not the condensor
It may have been stated earlier but the condenser coil is the latest design called Microchannel. It has the advantage of being smaller and requiring less refrigerant in the system. It does have it's challenges but it is the current state of the air. It exists because of government regulations on refrigerants.
I flushed hundreds and never had a problem. If the condenser cannot flow correctly replace it. Continuously circulating machines do that job just fine. If what you are saying is true then tell me why I don't have to redo my work!? Out of hundreds of systems repaired the 2 or 3 that came back always ended up being remanufactured compressors.
And Yes, there are times when you have to replace all the Parts but I would never make the claim that you "ALLWAYS" have to replace everything!
Furthermore, if that was the case, none of the manufactures would warranty without replacement of "ALL" the parts.
Also, when Flushing you need to "always" flow the solvent backwards and never in the direction the pump circulates.
The flush will only go through the tubes that aren't clogged. Any holes in the condenser that are clogged stay clogged. Just change them.
At the very least the ac will exchange heat better and blow a little colder, at worst your compressor will fail within a week.
It's like not changing an orface tube or expansion valve.
@@elmeradams8781 What part of what I said did you not understand? I have done hundreds. Not once have I had a fail from clogged Condenser. Heat exchange is either good or not.
Yes, there are times when you have to replace everything but experience tells me that this is not the case most of the time. I don't sell bad jobs! If the flush doesn't work simply replace, otherwise I will save my customer that cash.
And the condenser has absolutely nothing to do with an Orifice Tube or an Expansion Valve. If you knew what you are talking about you would know that Compressor Manufacturers will NOT warranty any Compressor if the Orifice Tube and Accumulator/Dryer is not replaced! Thermal Expansion Valves themselves do not have filters so they are only replaced as needed.
Same theory. The expansion valve, the orface tube, and the condenser all have tiny holes. That's why you replace them, not that they wear out.
I don't know how you can tell if a few tubes in the condenser are clogged or not, or maybe you're saying clogged or not it still works ok so don't replace it.
I've wanted to use thermal image camera, I'd bet you could see clogged passages even on working systems.
@@elmeradams8781 At this point it becomes painfully obvious you have no clue! Good luck!
because i drive my cars for decades and would rather fix them than replace them. if you like throwing money away on cheaper designs, go right ahead. It is not more efficient cooling, it's just a cheaper way to make them work the same. the smaller holes actually strain the compressors more and they break down quicker that way.
10 AM central standard time, U.S. Go to google+ events, the show is there. You join google plus, which is free. Then you can just click on the google plus little icon on the top right corner of my scotty kilmer channel opening page on youtube on saturday morning. That will take you to the event. You can also join my google+ community Auto Repair With Scotty Kilmer, then you will get an e mail every friday telling you not to forget the upcoming Saturday morning show.
You know Scotty, the long and short of it is, if your modern AC compressor blows, it's just going to really blow for you. Thanks for the video! You've definitely hit the nail on the head here.
These products are made cheaper and cheaper. And yet, they're expensive and break more often, and you as the car owner will gets the bill.
i finally gave up car ownership. Now i just rent or bike. i'm still on car repair tutorials though because my wife thinks i'm her designated car mechanic
Your opinions on automotive A/C are voice of reason and experience my friend.
IF it's not leaking oil AND the metal is not hitting anything inside the engine ( you would hear that) you can drive it. I have MANY customers with dings in their oil pans.
Do we have to replace the evaporator coil as well? On my truck I have an orifice tube no expansion valve.
if car overheats, changing the radiator can make AC work better, but I doubt that's your problem unless car is overheating.
Okay! When was the cut off time about when flushing became no longer helpful? Or was that when 134 replaced 12?
I'm wondering that too. Did you ever find an answer? I've got a 1998 Town Car with ac issues
believe me, I tried everything and I drink water like mad. But a 9 mm size stone in a tube that's normally the size of a spaghetti noodle has to be blasted out with a laser.
Same here. That sucker tried to kill me! Lol Hopefully never again.
DUDE! I want some of what your having. This video is LEGIT! Makes a lot of sense. Those channels are too tiny to try and move debris through, in an attempt to flush out ac system. Makes a lot of sense thanks bro for teaching me todays lesson. Scott if you did not show me a cutaway of that condenser, I would have never even thought about it. Very interesting.
debris got in there, it can come out, especially when you are using a chemical to dissolve the debris.
Wow. You have a chemical that can DISOLVE METAL FLAKES? While at the SAME TIME NOT dissolving the metal lines, tubes, condenser, evaporator, and so on? Wow. You must already be a millionaire with THAT invention! Go sit down before you hurt yourself.
You're an idiot, The End.
Hey Scotty, Im getting a Condenser, AC Lines, and compressor from junk yard for a 1989 Mitsubishi Mighty Max. Apparently they dont make or rebuild condensers for my truck anymore. Will flush work on a 89 condenser?
+Abel “'Gunner'” Lynch yes, it's old enough
Thanks! +Scotty Kilmer
What about a 90 Honda Accord?
Great info Scotty. Never realized how freaking small those passages in the condenser were ! Now that's SMALL !
When you say "modern", what year is the cutoff? "Modern" is a relative term and my 97' lincoln town-car could be either/or depending on what one considers "modern".
different cut offs for different makers actually. Yours is not modern, you could flush it.
Thank you, Scotty! :)
Scotty Kilmer funny how relative "modern" is. To me anything with serpentine belts and fuel injection is modern!!
True, true.
Hi Scott my honda civic airconditioning do not engage I replaced the condenser fan compressor is new air controller I have checked
The pressure like u do in ur videos can u help
depends on the model and make of course, but most cars less than 10 years old are made that way now.
Do you think the condenser on my 97 7.3L diesel will be the same?
+Toby Williams yes, it is
it would be a wise bet IF the compressor is bad. Realize many things can make a compressor not spin, even being low on refrigerant does that.
Scotty, is my 1996 ford ranger xlt too "modern" to be flushed?
Thanks!
no,you can flush it
Awesome thank you for the helpful video
Scotty Kilmer Same Question for a 91 ford explorer ,, thanks for all the info
no, I have one but rarely use it. My built in mic is dolby 5, so it works well.
Unhook both hoses on condenser... flush backwards with B12 chemtool... flows like new.
My uncle turn me on to B12 chemtool years ago. I use to use it in the gas tank all the time but stop using it on my new car with fuel injection I now use Lacus fuel injection cleaner.
shhhh, that doesnt get youtube views. ;)
nice attention to details he has! i personally don't mind because the finger was pointing towards the guy was zooming behind the camera
I like it when scotty says doing stuff to your car doesn't work because it makes me feel good about being lazy with my car
Hahahaha!! Me too 😂😂😂
Scotty, I agree - just blow out the lines and evap only, do not run cleaner through the compressor, ac receiver drier , condenser etc. but what about the expansion valve - will cleaner move through an expansion valve?
If I replace my condenser and my dryer do I still need to flush the system
I second this question. I'm looking to replace my compressor, condenser and dryer receiver as well.
@@gmax341 What kind of car and what's your symptoms? I'd say flushing the lines and evaporator is always a good idea. Could be metallic shavings residing in those areas.
Hey I have a 2000 Silverado my ac compressor went bad and I change my Oracle tube which was clogged. would I be okay by flushing the condenser or should I replace it.
I would replace it on that model, a known flaw
Thanks for the quick response! I have 3 pressure switches on it should I replace them as well before I have someone Vac it down and charge the system? So far I have flushed the lines replace ac compressor dryer and condenser ..
nice middle finger at the end scotty lmao
LMAO.. I had to double check too... That's uncle Scotty! the one we give a pass on pretty much everything.
Flushing is needed, especially if there's the black death inside. I always replace the condenser, since new ones are so cheap, and the receiver/dryer, even cheaper. And the orifice tube/expansion valve. And when the orifice tube/expansion valve are removed, depending on which type you have, then the evaporator and lines can be flushed. Evaporators rarely go bad, but getting to them or removing them can be tough. If the lines and evaporator are flushed, and the condenser and receiver dryer are replaced, along with the expansion valve or orifice tube, then the a/c system can be brought back to life when a new compressor is installed. If you see black death inside the system, the flush is mandatory or the new system will fail quickly. That black stuff is ground up aluminum from a failing compressor. If it gets inside a new compressor, it's toast. So you can't not flush, when it's needed.
Hello, can i get away with getting a cheaper evaporator core off eBay than getting one from a dealer?
Lionel Davis you can try, just pray it fits right, many chinese made ones will not fit right, I found that out with experience
You said that it was an evaporator you cut at 1:00, but it was a condenser, correct?
WOW those holes are so small. Are we going into nano-meter scale now or what!?
Efficiency
Less material is cheaper in some way
But more efficient at what it does
And lighter for a vehicle to carry
Win win win
Just making the crap disposable.
Lower cost (higher margin) plays a part. But weight/fuel economy and crash force dissipation (for some parts) are in play. That said, my Jeep Commander was in a basic fender bender. The fender was done and there was damage to all kinds of plastic. However, it was still derivable and didn't really look that bad. Repair cost paid by insurance - 6K!
scotty, i have a 1996 chevy caprice, i went through 2 compressors after original one went out,all i did is changed the compressors with the acumelator and the orifice tube, but never changed the condensor its the original one,now my compressor needs changing,shall i buy a new condesor or that 1996 condesor have big fins or small one like you showed here ? million thanks again scotty no one does what you do here.
It's not that the holes are too small to flush out, it's that cars that come from the factory using r-134a refrigerant use a parallel flow condenser instead of the long winding single tube that was used for r-12 condensers used. That's also where the myth that r-134a isn't as good as r-12 came from.
i heard that r12 is actually very dangerous to the atmosphere so im guessing by somehow continuing use of that global warming will become worse
So your saying you can flush them?
no you cant flush them. R12 is more efficent so it didnt need as many passages as r134a. R134a is not as good as R12 when it is used in a system designed for R12. If you ever do a conversion you might find your system sucks because you would need to change to condenser to a more efficient version designed for the new refrigerant.
New condensers are made that way to deal with the extra heat capacity of R134a. For a given system you have to pull more heat out of the refrigerant than you had to with R12 to get the same results. If a compressor fails it throws debris all throughout the system in most cases so things that can not be flushed of debris like the condenser have to be replaced. If the compressor has not failed but you have to open the system for another reason. You can simply clean the remaining oil charge out of a system and flush most of the components for reuse.
no thanks on the cheap chinese condenser. i've got enough problems with my a/c system. don't need another one
American manufacturing corporation's fell victim to the greedy politician /taxman long ago. so they left USA. to start up in foreign countries aka: china and so on there began the end of the American manufacturing / jobs / leaders of quality product's. and the rise of the asian industrial complex. greed / envy will destroy everything ......................
Am i correct to assume that when you replace the condenser you don't need to flush because the condenser is an effective filter, protecting the expansion valve and downstream structures? Or, would you flush the rest of the system anyway?
So what you are saying is, Don't be dense about your condenser...
coolramone Lmfao
AC what you did there.
@@hammar324 LLP
Thank you this has helped me stop thinking and stressing over what I should do. I'm buying a replacement.
glad i did not flush mine great video
old age baby, live with it. Valve seals are probably all worn. But do change the pcv valve, that can help.
Replacing the condenser makes sense, but wouldn't you STILL need to flush the system to remove contaminants anyway?
The condenser filtered most of the contamination and that made it fail. The cold side is larger bored and will not see much contamination.
Scotty I also have a question, i had my AC compressor replaced, but when I turn on the AC, I heard a buzzing sound, the sound sounds like it's accelerating with me when I accelerate and step on the gas pedal, it does eventually goes away, but I was just wondering what that was because it only sounds like that when I turn on the AC.
this dude is the shit
how about the evaporator and expansion valve? should those be replaced too?
What about the evaporator? It is very similar in design to the condenser.
Good advice on this video. Logical & worked for me. On a cheap car it doesn't make sense to spend more than the cars worth to get the AC working again. Since replacing compressor, drier & pump over 2 yrs ago, system has been fine. All cheap Chinese components that cost less than $200 for the lot.
Not sure if this will be seen but worth the shot. My girls ac was plowing coldish air so I had it flushed (Yeah I know now) and topped off. It now plows @ 65*F without the engine reved. If I have to replace something as it warms up, which part should I replace first?
Watched your video on things not to do to your car. I had to replace her fuel pump (turned out to be the check valve) but the pump alone was $450!!! The filter, regulator, everything is in the fuel pump. That was a bummer.
Edit: they purged the system, not flushed.
Scotty, as I've become older and more experienced with my automobiles I've come to realize that when it comes to repairs, it is wiser to fix/replace "systems" as opposed o individual components. Which is what you are saying here. Example: If the radiator goes bad you are best off getting new hoses too, etc. The reason being that the strong new components will put more stress the older weaker components. Another breakdown is likely.
Hello Scotty, I have a 2010 VW Jetta and the AC system is not working well, sometimes it cools but not enough and others does not cool at all, I tried to recharge refrigerant but when I connect the gauge it shows in the red area of it, fan works when it is not cooling, what else can be? Shall the system need to be purged t take away air? Thanks
Another reason to like my old 1980s trucks. I have two Ford diesels, an 85 E350 motorhome and an 87 F250. Tough as nails old quality stuff.
Wow never knew that....I have a 99 plymouth breeze...2.4 liter that had metal shaving throughout the entire A/C system...I blew out with an air compressor as much metal shavings as i could get...replace the evap canister and compressor...charged and bleed the system several times...a metal shaving actually sheared the rubber bleed valve, replaced it...(never replaced the condenser coil)...system has been working nicely since 2006...I think I was very lucky.
Hello Scotty -- I have miscalculated my PAG46 AC system for my 2000 Ford Excursion 5.4l -- I was going to have system evacuated and drain oil from my new condenser, totally replace the accumulator and can i flush or use compressed air in the evaporator to help in evacuating PAG out of that. I prefer not to have to remove that part again. I was also thinking of pulling the compressor and drain and then replace with the 7oz. of PAG46 it was shipped with. I am hoping not to bother with the rear system evaporator and lines. I will also install a new orifice tube. It cools but as well as it should -- I did recheck the orifice tube and that clearly showed me that there is too much PAG in there. Recommendations are welcome. Thanks Scotty
So I replaced my compressor and condenser and ac lines and orifice and had it vacuumed out and charged 6 years ago. It ran perfect. Then I let it sit 6 years. I finally decided to get it running again. Now the compressor kicks on and off like every ten seconds. I check it to see if it leaked over that time and it’s still fully charged. What could it be and can I try something before having someone look at it again? I just cleaned the condenser fins but don’t know what to try next. Thanks
At around 1:00 he said he cut into the Evaporator. Does this information apply to both the condenser and the evaporator?
generally a wearing out compressor does that, if you turn the AC off and the noise goes away, the compressor is the culprit.
hello. I have a 2005 ford expedition: I put a can of freon with the green paint to see where is leaking and found out that the compresor was all wet with the green pain but, the compressor is working right. should I replace the compresor or what should I do?
toritomex yep, no one fixes em, they just replace them and yours is leaking
That is a micro channel condenser. It is not made to be cheaper, it’s made to be more efficient. The increased surface area for the refrigerant allows more heat transfer.
I have a 2008 honda pilot. It has a bad compressor. I plan to change both compressor and the condenser. Based on this video it's best to changed the condenser because it may be clogged. Does evaporator need to be changed as well?
I have a 1985 vehicle that uses R-12 does this apply to me? Was the 0bd2 generation the beginning of the condenser internals being smaller?
Scotty - 2000 Ford Taurus. Have all new replacement lines, compressor and condenser all from Ford. The only thing I'm not changing is the evaporator core. Someone injected leak sealer into the car before I bought it, and it didn't last. Should I bite the bullet and change the evaporator core as well since that sealer stuff was used? or flush the evap core?