VW A4: 1.9L ALH TDI Rear crank seal replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
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follow your videos very clear and precise they are a1
Thank you for watching!
Dude, having that lift is so nice :P All I got is a concrete slab and a jack + stand lol
Da Coder Play safe! I couldn't work without a hoist 90% of the time... don't know how eric the car guy does it... he's got room for at least 4 lifts in his shop.
***** yeah i even offered to help with a lift donation project, he refused :O
Your videos are so helpful. Thanks alot!! I'm gonna tackle this when I install a new clutch in a couple weeks. Do you recommend installing a OE seal? Or should I go with the iABED billet RMS upgrade? Any advice would be helpful. Thanks again.
Which engine? That kit is meant for 2.0T engines... if that's what you own, then yes, use that over the stock seal (that has a tendency to leak & tear).
Thomas EXOVCDS I guess that would of been helpful. Lol I have a MK6 Golf R 2.0T CRZA engine code. Thanks again.
Thanks. Yup... go with the iABED.
Very glad to of watched this. I was afraid I was going to have to buy some vw fitment tool but relieved that is not required. My vw sdi golf blew a roller bearing through the bell housing, and I noticed some oil on the seal, so I figured I would do the seal as well. Engine have done over 150k miles.
Thomas, I’ve been trying to find info on replacing a rear main on a ‘98 ABA motor. How similar is this?
Pretty much the same. Earlier style rubber seals can be replaced without having to replace the flange / assembly. How far are you in getting to the seal? If you are not sure which style seal you have when looking at it, send me a picture and I'll tell you what you have. Click the fkh161 link in the description and then click on "Tool Request" to send me a message / image. Either version of seal / flange assembly should come with an installation tool... that guides the lip of the seal over the crankshaft (so that the seal does not get damaged). If you need service info... I can share that as well.
I have heard that you also need to remove the felt part from the RMS. Is this true? Should it be left in?
I have not heard that... I leave it in place.
Here's a video of a camshaft seal being installed... the seal also has a felt liner.
th-cam.com/video/N_tTstcDJH4/w-d-xo.html
Just found a rear main seal video... felt is left in place.
th-cam.com/video/K5SdJpDP9bI/w-d-xo.html
@@EXOVCDS thanks!
One question, how many types of rubber are for the rear main seal? PTFE or another one to take care for install
I don't know how many types of rubber there are... that's what she said.
@@EXOVCDS hahshshshja
@@ManuelRodriguez-dd4jt I only know of 2 versions. PTFE and the old style rubber seal. It's best to install the same type that was in the vehicle. PTFE need to be installed dry. However, I have heard that VW has a special lube for PTFE seals. No matter if it is rubber or PTFE... make sure to use an installation tool when fitting the new seal over the crankshaft! The tool should come with the new seal. Rubber seals can be bought with or without the flange. PTFE seals are molded into the flange / can only be bought with the flange.
@@EXOVCDS thank you so much Thomas, mine is an old 1998 golf tdi mk4 300.000 kms ( first one ever changed) and not cause by leaking, when I decide to change the first clutch kit with flywheel and all the stuff I also want to change the rear main seal for the future, but... Bad decision, now the new PTFE is sagging me in the ass, and I can't find the old rear main OEM seal material. Thank so much Thomas for your answer.
You should still be able to find the old style... here is a listing that shows old style & PTFE:
www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--TDI/Search/SiteSearch/rear_main_seal/
This realy helps, thanks :)
raimondszunda Thanks for watching & taking the time to comment!
is the front Main seal hard to do? lucky me I have to do both......
No, but you have to remove the timing belt & crank sprocket. If the cam & injection pump lock tools are not used, timing will be out. If the timing belt is installed wrong (cam / crank timing)... engine damage can occur.
Only loosen & tighten the front crank sprocket bolt while the timing belt is in place.
Hi ineed help from you I am install rear oil seal crank for skoda Octavia but leak
What year? Which FSI engine?
٢٠٠٠
What is the symptom of this one?
Clutch was no good... small oil leak starting at rear main seal, so decided to replace the seal. Even when there's no oil leak, it's a good idea to replace the rear main seal and anything else while the transmission is out (input shaft seal, pivot pin & clip, release bearing & release lever etc).
can you help with changing the seal on a 2013 jetta hybrid?
No.
wow ok thank you
@@EXOVCDS
You can find all the service info you need at: erwin.vw.com/erwin/
$35 USD for 24hrs of access... you can download & save as many service manuals as you want.
Best deal anywhere!
We are not certified to work on Hybrid vehicles.
Thomas EXOVCDS I understand thanks for the information and video
how much does a job like this cost
Clutch or rear main seal? Labour will be equal to clutch replacement... so even if the clutch is not slipping, might as well replace it at this point. Same if the oil seal is NOT leaking... replace oil seal when replacing the clutch. Shop hourly rate will vary between states, cities , countries... phone a local shop to get local $ figures.
hey! in the middle of doing my clutch and im about to replace the rear main seal, what is the gasket maker you are using? looks like the permitex black? thanks!!
+dangeranger69 Any high temp Automotive silicone (O2 friendly) will do... yes, we happen to use Permatex Ultra Black.
+Thomas EXOVCDS thanks my first clutch job is now complete! thanks to the help of your videos.
+dangeranger69 Are all the gears still there? :) Congrats on your first!
+Thomas EXOVCDS yupp they are, and what a difference clutch pedal is so light, my old one the pivot had busted through the clutch fork and snapped the ball pivot off. i put the g60/vr6 kit in
Might be a stupid question but I just changed my oil like 20miles ago and tore the car down for a manual tranny swap, decided to replace this while I’m there bc why not. But do you have to drain your oil to do this job? Thanks
No.
Thomas EXOVCDS thankyou!
About to do this job while my trans is out for a clutch job.
Thank you for watching!
Awesome video, really can't thank you enough for this. Had some questions and all answered in this short video
Thank you for watching!
Thomas EXOVCDS I'm replacing the rear crank seal on my VW 1.9l AJM TDI, its developed a small leak which I left a little to long and now the clutch has become contaminated with engine oil and is slipping. I'll be replacing the clutch as well as the RCS, Do you think that the dual mass flywheel will also need to be replaced?? Had a new DMF installed around 12 months ago was hoping to possibly clean up and reuse??
cheers thomas
Depends on how much oil got onto it. If it looks ok... should be ok. Make sure to replace the crank bolts that hold it against the crankshaft.
Thomas EXOVCDS , yes I'll be sure to replace those crank bolts either way. Got my fingers crossed that the DMF will be ok after a good clean. Thanks again for the great advice and top videos.
All the best
Old Hemp
Are new bolts needed ? Or can we reuse old ones?
The bolts that hold the rear main seal flange can be reused.
Flywheel bolts need to be replaced.
Hey man love yours vids! Recently did my rms but it's leaking unfortunately. Going to be taking it apart to do it the right way, we learn from our mistakes lol. My question is did you have to drain the oil to do the seal? Or can it be done with oil left in place? Thanks in advance!
No need to drain the oil... crankshaft is above oil level.
Do not lube PTFE seals with oil... they have to be installed dry and an installation tool is critical! The rubber spring loaded seals can be lubricated with oil. An installation tool is also recommended for those seals.
Thank you for watching!
@@EXOVCDS
The seal used in this video is the spring type of PTFE?
@@x-man4702 PTFE
@@EXOVCDS
The clear plastic ring was the installation tool?
@@x-man4702 Yes. It allows the seal to slide over the edge of the crankshaft. Once the tool is removed, the PTFE seal relaxes and conforms to the crankshaft.
Great video man. A little confused as to what you mean by the white sealing ridge? I'm in the middle of a B6 Audi clutch and rear main seal replacement. While a different car, it's the exact same rear main seal. Is this white sealing ridge part of the pan or is it something left over from the previous seal?
The previous sealant... it forms a barrier / ridge at the inboard lip of the oil pan. New silicone / sealant will form a new ridge as the flange is positioned. Remove all the old sealant or leave the inner strip as seen in the video. I have removed it in the past or left it... haven't had any issues either way.
Thomas EXOVCDS ok thanks. I’ll prob try and remove it as it feels weird to leave it. Since my car is has a longitudinal mounted motor it’s a little harder for me to poke my head up in there to see especially since I’m doing this on jack stands. I️ found your video mostly in my search to figure out if I needed to use some sealant when installing this or not. While I own several Bentley manuals, I don’t have one for this car.
Just remember not to oil the PTFE seal... they must go on dry, so that they can conform to the crank after the installation tool is removed.
Thomas EXOVCDS good advice, thanks again. The “tool” being the plastic insert that basically prevent the lip of the seal from flipping?
Yes.
Hi! Love watching your vids!! I am about to replace the rear main seal on my mkiv 1.8t. Which seal brand would you recommend? It is necessary to remove the oil pan, or it is possible to fit the seal with the oil pan in place. Regards!!!
Oil pan does not need to be removed. Have not had any issues with Victor Reinz, elring or Genuine VW.
www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Search/SiteSearch/Rear_main_seal/
Do you have a video on how to replace the input shaft bearing? I have a 2004 1.9l tdi and mine is going out. I want to do the work myself to save some money but with your expertise do you think someone with minimal mechanical experience be able to do something like this?
I don't even do it myself... our shop deals with transmission shops.
I'm sure you can find a DIY article online with a bit of searching. I'd assume that some specialty tools will be needed.
Hi there, what was the reason for changing it ? I have a 03 jetta alh that had the engine rebuilt and now I'm having low oil pressure and some smoke coming around engine area. Can this be my issue ? I already changed the sensor. And the guy tested it with a mechanical gauge and said it was good.
If your engine was rebuilt, then this seal was most likely also replaced... rear main seals usually do not cause oil pressure problems, but can leak oil (that's why this one was replaced, or because the clutch was changed... I can't remember which it was). Oil pressure should be minimum of 29 psi at 2000 rpm once the engine is at full operating temperature (radiator fans come on).
Follow the smoke to the source... oil is probably getting on to the exhaust manifold. I can't tell where the oil is coming from, so you will have to look... or have someone look for you. Same with the pressure... I don't know what all was replaced in the "rebuild" and how much experience the person has with ALH engines. If that person knows what he is doing... then have him find the problems. I would think that low oil pressure would be a warranty issue.
When I took my rear Main off my mk1 rabbit there was no paper gasket on it I see a paper gasket that I can buy that goes behind the rear Main? Do I need it? I replaced it with a whole new unit like this in the video but unsure if I need the paper gasket aswell.
The later main seal flanges don't need it. If you used a flange seal that was flat, the gasket should have been used. If the flange seal had a rubber lip/ seal... you're good as is.
Thank you very much for posting this. I needed an example of how much and where to place the gasket sealer. Great point of view shot!
thanks for watching & taking the time to comment!
***** Where can I send you $ for a beer?
+Thomas EXOVCDS Oh, and I ended up using Loctite 510 to make the gasket. Looks like it's good stuff. I did this 5 minutes ago. :)
+theslawek much appreciated... pick a donation button here:
fkh161.ca
you can get a couple of my TH-cam stickers depending on what you choose.
+Thomas EXOVCDS Donated!
Does my 2002 golf tdi have the same rear main seal? Mine is so bad I it trashed my clutch!!!
This video was off of a Golf or Jetta (both are VW A4's), so yes, should be the same / similar.
need to put on the threaded bolts locking sealant which goes to the clutch pressure plate. well thank you
Thank you for watching!
Does the BEW engine have the same style seal? Or is it like a regular American car with just the seal itself?
MrErikw26 BEW I believe is the same... the older cars had seals that can be removed from the flange.
Is it same job for mk7 tdi
Similar but different.
If i need to change the crankshaft seal in skoda octavia do i need to take off the whole timing belt. ?
Front crank seal? Yes. Rear crank seal... transmission has to come out.
What clutch do you recommend for a replacement, for I have to get mine done very soon.
Rob H Did you just PayPal me? Didn't have to! We use with Sachs or Luk which ever came out.
I'm in the giving mood. And I meant to say is to get the dual again or like the bug shop wants to put in is the conversion one.
Rob H The single mass can / will cause the transmission to rattle when it's in neutral. I'm sure you've read about that already. Stickers will be in the mail tomorrow (address in PayPal notice correct?).
Ok thanks and I'll tell them I want the Luk Dual Mass.
Thanks for the video! Just removed the original clutch from my Beetle 1.9 with 256,000 miles on it. Dual mass flywheel gave up.
ACjunkie1 that's a lot of miles on an original DMF!
When I installed the rear main seal it seems as that Teflon seal sits flush with the crankshaft is that correct it almost looks as if I need to push it in but before I do any of that I thought I'd ask
Go to my website... link is in the description (fkh161)... find my contact info and send me a picture of what your see / your crank seal. Did you replace the seal or the whole flange assembly like I did?
@@EXOVCDS I went back took screws out restarted(never torqued down) ...tapped it in..used rtv....and it looks better. (replaced whole assembly) I'll send pics thanks
Would this process be the same on a 1.9TDi ASZ engine?
I have not worked on an ASZ engine... if the crankshaft position sensor is mounted to the rear seal flange, then it is not the same as this ALH TDI. PD TDI's that have the crank sensor in the same location as this ALH TDI, will have the same style of rear crank seal flange.
Did you have to lube up the new seal before putting it on?
No... this seal is a PTFE (teflon) seal that needs to be installed dry!
glaser.es/EN/Service-Downloads/Practical-Information/PTFE-Oil-Seals-and-Their-Installation.aspx
Just got it done, thanks for the vid!
Thomas Garcia Good stuff! All the best to you & yours for the holidays!
getting ready to do the rear main then the same clutch you were about to install in this video ive done clutches before but no dmf setup did you post the next segment of this day with the clutch install .........???? oh and great work thanks for posting all these videos !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry, no install video... install in reverse of removal. Dual mass flywheel / clutch kit usually comes assembled, all you need to do is mount it to the crankshaft (follow tightening sequence as per service manual). Thanks for watching!
okay thanks that was really what i wanted to know if i need to disassembly the unit since it was all together
. just finished it all up thanks you were a big help
thomas fisher jr avion
Do you have to deal with customers yourself at all? Or does the service counter staff prefer the technicians not to?
MrErikw26 I have to deal with customers as well... when the boss isn't here, I have to run the counter / write invoices etc. and work.
***** god bless you. I'm not very good with customers lol. Thanks for the replies
Question for you. How many clicks on a torque converter to set on a 2003 vw golf tdi 4 speed auto
Not sure what you mean. When placing a torque converter into the transmission housing, you can sometimes feel 3 steps / engagements. On the other hand, if things line up nicely, you might only feel one engagement. That is why a torque converter "depth" measurement is listed in the service manual.
@EXOVCDS thank you. Your Answer is exactly what I meant
If you need the measurement, let me know.
@@EXOVCDS I do if you don't mind please
So before I installed the trans I set the converter to trans it did drop. I didn't get a measurement tho. So would it still be able to bolt flex plate to converter properly if the converter wasn't set properly?
Ever do a front crank shaft seal on a 1.9 tdi?
Yes, many... but no video. Sorry.
Thank you very much guys VERY informative, thanks again, greatly appreciated.
Thank you for watching!
Merry Christmas & Happy New Year!
All the best to you & your family for the new year!
o shit this sounds out of my league.... :(
If you can do a clutch & rear seal... you can do the front seal. You just need the tools & service manual.
@9:49 like a Pizza....but not tasty
LOL
Just finished this job, following your lead. thank you!
Thank you for sharing your DIY success and thank you for watching!
Does anyone know what epoxy to use to keep the crank seal in i already put it in once but it popped back out and now i hear of some epoxy your supposed to use to keep it in has anyone heard of this?
I install seals dry... I only lube the sealing lip (that touches the crankshaft) with oil, but only on rubber lipped seals. PTFE seals are installed dry... never oil. PTFE seals usually come with the flange, so there's no need to worry about installing the seal in the flange. What brand of seal are you using?
@@EXOVCDS its a national oil seal for a 2001 vw passat automatic 1.8t
@@osiris122cf I'm not familiar with National oil seal brand. We have had good luck with Elring brand seals.
www.ecstuning.com/b-elring-parts/rear-crankshaft-seal-with-flange/06a103171a~elr/
@@EXOVCDSyea thats not the seal I put in it was in the transmission pump it's holds the transmission fluid in It came out once when my ac pully wore a hole in my tranny line and let my fluid out and it started leaking from the seal and when I took the transmission off the seal and the bushing just popped out the seal still looked good but I'm starting to think maybe the bushing is bad and it keeps pushing out the seal and the flat washer gasket that's in their two! Have you heard of anything like this happening?
Your first post said crank seal... you are posting under a crank seal video. No way of me knowing that you have an issue with an automatic transmission. Contact Richard at th-cam.com/channels/pJdF1RzuXHqtzK258qRLjg.html or kansascitytdi.com/contact/ He knows his way around automatic transmissions, I don't.
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Did you film the install od dual mass? realy wana see it
Domperoid No... line-up the assembly and tighten.
***** Nead theat special tool???
Domperoid Which one? Have you got a link to the tool? Triple square for the flywheel bolts... the dual mass comes assembled (flywheel, disc & pressure plate), just have to mount it to the crankshaft.
is it the same for a 2.0l sohc
Yes.
@@EXOVCDS regarding part i see left and right hand twist any distinctions ?
I don't know what you mean.
This is the part.
www.ecstuning.com/b-elring-parts/rear-crankshaft-seal-with-flange/06a103171a~elr/
im on rock auto ..there are descriptions of twist direction some of these seals ??? maybe info has migrated to fly wheel seal trying to narrow down what i need to swap clutches ....output shaft as i guess flange seal input shaft transaxle main seal ........ right hand left hand twist sorry it probably means that front of the engine is appliance side and rear is fly wheel side right hand twist should mean clockwise direction ?? left hand twist should mean counter clockwise?? twisted descriptions they looked ribbed did you screw one in :) rear or flywheel side front appliance side its what you get with front wheel drive a tentative experience
I don't know... I don't use rock auto.
Contact ecstuning.com and tell them what you are doing. They will tell you all the parts you need.
That elring seal or
Yes, I think that was an elring flange & seal (PTFE)... the seal is part of the flange.
I cleaned engine block wall with sandpaper, is it a damage? 😰
Which part of block? What kind of sandpaper?
Where the flange makes contact? No, should be ok. Use 300 sandpaper... nothing too rough (sandpaper below 300).
@@EXOVCDS thanks for fast response!! I cleaned the part where the flange touches the engine block, not the shaft. The area where flange id bolted to engine. I'm afraid the first sandpaper was lower than 300 but I don't know ecactly because it was the last piece I had. Later I used 1000 and 2000. I'd like to show you a picture but I don't know if I can attach it here.
It will be fine... as long as there are no deep scratches, the seal from the flange will seal things. There is no high pressure oil behind the flange that you have to worry about. email info can be found on my fkh161 website, link is in the description.
@@EXOVCDS ok thank you, you are very helpful.
hi thomas i heard that the 1998 tdi alh comes with a luk 220mm clutch and the later years alh come with a 228mm, i have a 1998 and i want to change the clutch but on my state the 228mm clutch is available, is it possible to convert to 228 by changing the flywheel clutch and clutch plate or there is a different pattern of bolts or something else thank you :)
Bolt pattern is the same... read the $399 part description at bottom of page:
www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/Clutch/55/18
so i can upgrade it with a 228mm set of flywheel clutch and clutchplate on my 1998 alh so the correct answer is yes and i wont have any problems on doint it just bolt off and bolt onn ?
and by the way if the set comes pre assembled by the factory should i torque the clutch bolts again or should i just put the bolts of the crankshaft and torque them what are the torque spec
1) Used to upgrade models with original 220mm clutch to later 230mm clutch.
2) Includes new pre-assembled dual-mass flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, bolts for flywheel to crankshaft and release bearing.
1a) must fit if it is an upgrade from 220 to 228/230
2a) pre-assembled means put together... the only thing you need to torque, is the crank bolts. But if you want, you can check the pressure plate bolts as well.
the part that im going to buy is an oem 228mm so it can fit there isnt any saying that is an upgrade but just oem parts wish that it would fit
your work is so nice man you make it an art.
Many would disagree... but thank you!
4:40 HAMMER TIME :)
=)
Thanks Man!
+alphashifter2207 Thanks for watching & taking the time to comment!
When you tighten down the RMS you should be doing the bolts evenly. This is a good method for most flanges. I question the method of tightening bolts down before having all of them at least near snug first. Sloppy work.
+John Be Good We can't all be as good as you... watch my other videos, you might find something else wrong. Fine with me... I get paid for views. :)
+John Be Good I don't re-watch all my videos... the flange was installed at around 5:00 Tapped into place until flush with the block. Then I started to tighten bolts down. Sure it might not have been a perfect star pattern... the flange was already seated at that point. 24 years and I have never had a comeback for a leaky seal. The guys that complain / point out the "issues"... are always the guys that don't have videos on their channel. Should I check how many you have? Like I said, keep watching... even better, donate via my paypal account and I'll send you some stickers for your "tool box" (don't know if you have one, no "helpful" videos on your channel).
***** The fact I don't have videos isn't the point. You are using a straw man argument to try to prove something that has no basis of the original point I made. You know it's sloppy because you wouldn't teach someone to do it that way. I've seen some people who make videos edit them with a comment to explain an error or misstep or cor clarity in a video instead of rerecording it.
Anyway..I should say good work putting the videos out there for people to see. They are helpful nonetheless.
there no CC :(
I still have to add it... I'm sorry. As soon as I finish dinner I will get back to editing! In some of the videos I do not talk.
CC should work now!
thank you so much I like you as friend
Justin Vancouver You are welcome! You are my friend as well.
you work other car tomorrow?
elring says that the seal needs to wait 4 hours before starting
why?
Johnny Gonzalez The new style seal does not use a spring behind it... so the seal needs time to "relax" in order to make contact with the crankshaft (after the installation tool is removed).