Been a Boilermaker for 30 years. You need a smoke shelf just in front of the stack tube inside to slow the turbulence of the fire going up the stack . Tractor Supply sells a barrel stove kit for the door for 80 bucks.
Extensive experience building/using long fireboxes in cavernous spaces, chiming in. Nice build, with some tweaks you'll get it dialed in; comments are mostly directed at the next build. The legs should be connected to each other at the base. With aggressive loading, or a bump, they could fold. Air intake should be as low as practicable, just above the usual fire base. The fins and other heat exchanging refinements are nice. However, lacking that, a basic sheet-metal "tunnel" over the firebox combined with a blower fan will extract all the heat a firebox has to give. A loading door doesn't need quite so much refinement. Something like a simple sliding flat plate is adequate. The "crowned" loading-end of a pressure-vessel firebox can be mostly left in place. Cut a rectangular opening to "frame" a door. A short length of large tube would make a quick "frame" for a door opening. Within reason, room permitting, and considering the typical available fuel, the firebox may as well be left at original length. The less processing of fuel, the better. There should be a flame baffle located just below the flu connection. Restricts the direct pathway for a roaring "jet" of flame to climb the flu. Build a "hoe" with long enough handle to reach the back of the firebox. Cut hoe's edge with a radius to match the barrel's radius. Use that to rake ash forward. In practice a shovel and hoe beats most more complex ash clean-out arrangements. Please don't take anything I've written as negative; its not the intention. Thanks for sharing your build, it's great!
even light strap connecting the legs would help with racking maybe even add some to the top to Saddle it? i suggested open vent at the top o the jacket for natural convection flow. we had a stove with an insert in the flue with pipes through and a blower in it
A stove laying on its side takes up valuable floorspace. Standing up gives that stove a chance to work like in a convection and burn the fumes as well.. Now standing up with the door on its side makes for any length of wood, and a space above the flame for any heat exchangers plus run that exhaust from the side as well. It causes the turbulent heat effect you need to get even wet wood to burn like kindling. That is a really nice and tall tank that makes for all the space needed for a perfect stove. I live in alaska where it is sixty five or more below zero. So getting tons of dry wood is so expensive and not even easy to find wood that can be burnt without a ton of creosote. Now standing it up makes it burn that creosote as well and you have seen chimney fires and how hot they are
Nope I used barrel stoves for year with no grate works fine but my draft feed was much lower ... my guess is the ash cleaning port will need to be used to help with draft or a channel will need to be put on back of door to direct feed of draft lower .....
@roro-jj1fv I have a Summer Heat model #50- SHN 35 LC . Simular to my old wood stove. Heats my entire house. Burns completely just powered ash leftover. Started with a barrel burner yrs ago. Always had unburned chunks in the bottom
Very nice build on your wood burner, or waste oil if you wanted to. I would agree with some that your venting should be in the bottom of the stove. I have seen quite a few of these built and the bottom half got fire brick and refractory mortar used, this will help with the life of your tank as it should get very hot with the appropriate fire buildin' Just a small voice from the cheap seats not criticizing just want it to keep you warm for decades!!
@@rickfox6995 I've had two different homemade wood boilers for the last 40 years, niether have a grate. they burn clean, with a outside air intake that enters from the rear top of the 4' long firebox thru 3" pipe, getting pre-heated, before feeding the fire at the very front. I don't burn 4' lengths of wood, 12 to 16", the 4' firebox is just a heat exchanger.
almost wanted to cry "NO" when you laid it on its side. Still enough to stand back up and build what I described. If I only could draw a picture of what I am talking about, then you would be convinced. I also burn all the trash in the shop in that stove and that helps a lot with how much a person can have. I even took the bags of trash from the house and burnt it in the stove and the little cans even melt and go away. Clean out once a year, and that is mostly curiosity that makes me do that. I even burnt parts of tree stumps in mine and they go completely away. I learned all of this from having a shake and shingle mill and the waste from making shakes and shingles was enormous until I made a burner
One other thing. The air damper should be on the bottom when you have the ash door. Better flow that way and your fire will burn hotter when you need it to.
Hey, what an absolutely beautiful stove! I am sure it will work (has worked) and, IT IS YOUR BABY- and you deserve to love every part of it, no matter what the heck else others might opine! Good job, sir! :) P. S. I hadn't watched the whole video or part 2 yet when I made my comments. It has warmed-up tonight. It is a nice toasty -16C (3.2F). :) Marcel from Saskatchewan.
Which end is slightly higher? You're way over thinking it. The heat column up your chimney is going to provide draft that will overcome any slight difference in height. Keep your draft input low and exit high. TIP: You're building essentially a huge barrel heater. They quickly generate a LOT of heat but it's always a "feast or famine" routine. Not a big problem in a shop but you can smooth out the curve by adding thermal mass, like clay bricks, to absorb heat during "feast" and release heat during "famine." Great build. Thanks for some good ideas.
I've got a feeling that the door is going to make it tough to load lots into the burn box. The bigger the logs the better. It means less cutting and handling wood and longer burns. It will need a layer of fire brick on the bottom of the burn box and a grate above that as well. It's a great start but refinements will make it better.
We will be burning mostly pallet wood. All the parts are 3/16 or 1/4 so it's not your average stove and will not need brick. I'm not a fan of grates so....
Very cool. Maybe look at options to burn used oil too. If firewood gets hard to find, setting an oil burner inside the burn box could be a good option, and it's basically free!
Also make sure that the stove can be completely shut down for its air as it will get so hot that you will want it in the center of the room. I built my first one and tried it outdoors so I could get the feel for what was needed. On the exhaust, make sure it is fairly low on the side of this tank and it causes convection! I know its a little slow to take off but some old greasy shop rags make excellent fire starter.
Any thought about running 2" pipe from front to back simolar to a water tube boiler. When fire is burning a fan at back of stove will blow through tubes inside stove and create a hot . the tubes will be open at back and front of stove.
I thought about that a lot actually. My concerns with running tubes inside the fire box like that are you would only have 50 inches of a run to pull the heat off of. Now I have 4x that which means you can blow 4x hard and 4x as much air. Also those tubes are prone to burning out. Lastly if it blows out the front then when I open the door it is going to want to suck the air out of the box and blow it in my face if the fan is on.
The heater seems like the fuel needs adjusted. Turned either up or down. On my contractor unit that takes care of it for me after I replaced all the fuel lines. Hope that helps.
one more thing b-4 we move on,, if you lay some fire brick in the bottom it will last the rest of your life, but if you dont it will burn out sooner or latter, wood ashes are corrosive in the off season so keep that in mind also and clean it out reall good when summer time comes, catch-u-latter...
I believe it is one of two things with your heater. It acts like it doesn't get enough fuel so my guess is either it is running out of fuel which could be caused by a hole in the pick up tube or more likely it needs the pressure turned up. Could also be something blocking the orifice the fuel shoots through.
replace the rubber houses and there is a inline fuel filter on the tank draw house , it works just like a paint gun the fab motor is also a tiny air compressor pushing air across the fuel pick up tube in the fuel mixer on the center back of the burn chamber , all check the air filter
If you want a good burn line, use a piece of chalk. It won't burn off during cutting and you can erase it easily for corrections. The kid looks like a good man with a torch, too. I wasn't much of a welder, but oh, boy, could I burn!!
Nice job. I agree with Johne189. A sheet metal heat jacket or plenum; let's say about 12 inches around the thing, or any combination, with an inlet for a fan to attach and and outlet for the hot air to leave; would complete the heating capacity of the furnace, I think. Looks very good, guys! Marcel from Saskatchewan. P.S. Just for laughs...it really was (no joke) -36C (-38.8F) outside here, last night. :)
The door should be solid with out and openings period and the ash door solid as well. Rework the air intake to let combustion air enter the tank in two places with 90 degree steel pipes located at the ash door level. On on the right and one on the left with the open end of the intake pipes facing forward flush with the front of the tank. And install screw dampers easily adjusted in the front……. You WILL NEED!! To install a flu pipe adjustable damper in the stove pipe just above the top of the tank level about a foot above the top of the tank. This will give you maximum air adjustability for the combustion air and the exhaust/smoke exit side…. Looks good so far! That stove will probably be a 8”-10” flu pipe size. You will know when the exhaust damper is wide open and the intake damper is wide open and smoke is backing out thrust the intake into the shop if you guessed right on this on.😂😂😂😂. I’ve made that mistake before my self!
Well if it's not warm enough another tank or drum can be mounted above the original stove Cut the pipe and set new smoke chamber in between the stove pipe but before doing this drill aligning 2" holes (or what ever tubing you have handy) in smoke chamber ....cut them to protrude an inch or two past end of smoke chamber.... use as many as you wish (5 -10 depending on size) on the back of chamber enclose end where pipes are protruding leaving room for air too enter tubing .... on sides mount a flag to mount an air duct of some kind then hook up to some kind of blower (furnace blower maybe) this way the excess heat going out the chimney will heat the tubing and the blower will push that heat out of the tubing as it repeats....if one part of shop is not warm enough fittings can be put on exposed ends of tubing to direct direction of heat .... or you can close of like the back and connect it to a duct work system routing heat more efficiently .... just a thought
just my 2 cents worth, but the damper is 2 high, it needs 2 be close to the bottom so it will suck the air thru the fire,, also i would have put the pipe out the end in the middle where you put the plate over the hole at the start, the way youv'e got it the draft will go thru the stove above the fire and out the back at the top and wont do as much good as it would if it goes thru the fire, other than that you did a hell of a good job, catch you latter...
. Yeah the damper needs to be lower. And you need to build a grate for the bottom of it. So your fire isn't laying on the bottom . And over heating the metal .
It doesn't matter if the air comes in from the top or bottom. I have a few different stoves. Some of the dampers are on top and some are on the bottom. Just have to make sure your chimney is hot. She'll draft fine. You probably won't need the blower with the size of the stove. Nice build...
My thought was to put the air control as near the bottom as possible even below the fire if possible. I’ll bet that it’ll work as is, but for the next time. Thank you for this video it’s interesting & I heat with Natural Gas so it doesn’t matter to me. But I like these videos, keep on keeping on.
you need to put a Damper on your flu ,it is used to slow down the flow through the stove and it is used to adjust your heat and you might not go through so much wood ,you need a great and if you would have put your draft adjust in your clean out door it would have been better, you will find out you should have made it half the length, if you just put a hole in the top of your cover hot air will rise and you won't need a blower ,just a few things I have learned feeding one of those beasts ,just my 2 cents 😉
I love my vertical barrel stove but I aspire to build one like that size but use it to heat our house, shop, and melt snow on all our concrete as a boiler
You should have checked with Cory and Hannah Wheat! they have a bomb-assed heater in the shop! complete with a blower to force out the heat! Round tubes passed through along the top sides would amplify the heat also
Is that Steve JR ( CWC ) looks like a very well built stove you should get plenty of heat to heat your shop. Get the draft going and it will work very well. Like the way you did the heat exchanger to pull off more heat. The door looks nice, most stoves that are built at the stores have the air intakes at the top to burn more of the gasses that come off the smoke to get a cleaner burn once it is warmed up to operating temp.
to change the level you could add a set of adjusting bolts through the i beam with a plate across the width. IF you put your heat vent on the top it will naturally flow out and not Have to have a fan for it
Sorry if this is a dumb question because I have never used a torch before but I noticed he only had regular safety glasses on not tinted ones. Should t he be using tinted ones?
It's all in who you ask! My grandfather use one for at least a couple of hours a day for the 30 some years he owned a salvage yard and I never once saw him wear glasses of any sort. My dad was the same way for almost as many years. I cut but a small fraction of what they did so I don't worry about it either. Plasma cutter I wear a tented shield. Having that said those old men where tuff and many people these days wear tinted glasses
I would say a dirty nozzle on the heater.. there is also an air adjustment screw. On the pump or close by it.. for fuel n air mix...or it has a pin hole in the fuel pick up line,,from tank to pump..sucking air ..🤷,,a few suggestions..... If I was there I would be able to figure it out for ya,, Plumbing and heating,, most of my like,, oil burners were are business in up state NY... I'm sure you can fix it anthony. 😆,,,, You can toss it now,, you got a killer wood stove ,, 👍😎💯,,,,,,
I cleaned the nozzle and filter put new lines on it. I adjusted the air screw on the pump it just makes a bigger flame nothing for the study part of the flame. Do the nozzles wear out?
@@HardCoreFab dirty fuel will eat it up.. the fuel spins in channels of the nozzle to determine spray angel.. maybe try a new one... If you take it apart, screw under the filter.. filter screws on nozzle.. there is another screw inside. Take it apart you will see the groves ,, in the insert .( small parts warning,) ,,. any little spec of dirt scratches in it,,,will mess it up. The spray pattern of fuel... it's running to rich. With fire comming out the front.. so adjust air screw. Smaller flame.. there is also n eye to see the flame for safety shut off.. but it stays running just spits and sputters.. it's a fuel delivery issue... Or mixture.. what shape is the ignitor in.. once it's lite.. it shouldn't need ignitor but maybe. Sounds to me it's picking up air with the fuel feed line.. but I would start with new nozzle.. cheap easy. ,, Go from there... the cleaner the fuel the better it will run.. kerosene is what I would use..🤷
Here in Kansas, kerosene is way too expensive to burn all the time. We can buy jet A fuel for half the cost! I burn Number 1 diesel with no issues at all. But any moisture in the fuel will cause burn problems. All those parts are pretty cheap and they do wear out.
@daniellalor5500 you can see in the video it was already cut in half many years ago before I got it. We did do a couple of burnouts in it outside before setting it up in the shop
I will start with a apology for making several comments just possibly. I want to either address any questions I may be able to answer or just mention of ways I do or did things. That little heater is just fine, but.... always toss in a dang but, you need to run a small piece of pipe from outdoors where there is oxygen for it to burn right. Gotta have air to make combustion. Just a small one inch pipe or even a half inch air hose will draw in air
Why fit such a tiny door on such a large burner it means your gonna have to spend more time cutting your wood up smaller to fit it. if your worried about weather its level just drill a hole weld a nut and put a bolt through then you've got fully adjustable feet. .
I forgot to mention that the only sand needed can go in the very bottom, and a small door if needed for ash can be put in it. It may take a year tho to get enough ash to even want to remove it as that is all gone in the very little smoke it lets out
I have been using barrel stones for heat for 67 years. I like your stove, but I think you’d be happiest if you can put a draft control in your ash door. The trouble you were having getting an out of round tank to fit your round stove. End would’ve been easier to solve with dogs and wedges than it was with those clamps.
Bad fuel to start with and blow out the line if the fuel line is rubber or in a lot of those they have a steel or aluminum line . And some of them use a rubber line as a coupler to hook the steel or aluminum to the fuel exit or inside of the tank. and those rubber lines will start to come apart internally and cause problems. Another big problem is the spark plug if it's been cleaned before then just replace it and the big thing that you might have to play with to get the heater RUNNING correctly is the gap on the plug. If you are running anything but k-1 kerosene, then you really need to pay attention to the gap.. most of the TIME OTHER fuel we end up using sometimes has a lower flash point.. So what I was shown over 40 years ago. was just like any thing else that has a spark plug pull the plug and with the tank empty of fuel pull the spark plug out and hook it to the plug wire and make sure that the spark plug is grounded good. Then plug it in and power it up and see how the spark looks. Don't trust a used plug!! Especially if it's been cleaned a half dozen times one time you could get lucky. But anyways with kerosene you want a pretty big gap. The 0.29 to 0.035 thousands of a inch is normally where I start with.. Basically you want to run as big of a gap as possible. You want to make sure that the spark is jumping even Time like it should if the gap gets to big it might jump it once then a second later it jumps again.. it needs to be a good hot rapid spark if you Play with the gap from smaller to bigger you will see what I'm talking about.. So if you can run the gap at 0.035 thousands or so. With anything other than new kerosene you will probably need to tighten the gap to about 0.022 to 0.027ish .on any other fuels other than new clean kerosene. You might never get some fuels to burn without the heater coughing like that.. but over many years and at least a dozen different heaters like that I had a old guy show me that trick and explained it to me. And I've fixed all my buddies and family members heaters like yours. Number 1.. new and clean fuel and fuel system!! Number 2.. new spark plug... if it's never been cleaned before you might get lucky and be able to get by with cleaning it. I don't even chance it I just get a new one... Number 3 the spark plug gap. The bigger you can run the better. Don't forget if you can't get spark all the time try smaller gap some don't have the power to jump a bigger gap. Or the power that supplies spark is low. This has helped me and many people out over the years.. PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU WOULD.. THANKS.. IF THIS WORKED FOR YOU...THANKS ANDY.....BOB......
@HardCoreFab those electronic igniters are known to break down once warm and that's exactly what they seem to do is keep that sputter... not trying to acted like I am the master of those types of heaters. It's just here in northern Michigan it seems like everyone of my buddies only have those for heat in their garage in the winter and they are always asking me to come. Over to help them on a sxs or snowmobile. And when they acted like yours dose it gives me a bad headache. So when I'm at a buddies place and their's is doing that they know I'm going to fix it and and next thing you know I'm Tear into the heater too fix it before I work on the sxs or snowmobiles. Lol.... So that's the only reason I have said anything about it and you asked. But honestly I'd try a new igniter. I've seen the fix one before ....good luck...Bob....
Your motor bearing is seizing up on that blower. It’s probably rusty from being in moisture. You probably have to replace to blow a motor or the motor for the burner. I’m not sure which it was the same one or not.
I Have the Same Heater, My Handle/Leg Tubing is Custom Bent but other than that Identical. Even the Flame Pop & Fuel And or Exhaust Smell from Our Leg Burner 2000. New Subscriber, I’ll hang til we get the Torpedo Heater Saga Repaired. I need My Damned Heater. You Fella’s Keep It Safe Out There, I’ll catch You on the Next One.
I think your damper is fine my idea that I've seen a lot was put heavy greating on the bottom then you can make a shovel to get in the bottom and get ash out I would also put some gussets on them legs over time and heating cycles they will most likely start bending from or more likely back from force of throwing wood in great idea about the angle around the door a guy built a really heavy box that big and didn't do it and over time the bottom lip bent in from shoving wood in it it was up at hunting camp they had the people seeing them take it up there believeing it was a bear trap lol I remembered that as soon as I saw yours
Oops sorry I thought your damper was on the bottom yes it's too high sorry I was commenting while watching and just got to that part lol but yes make damper on bottom door
Editing as video goes. Cutting w the torch, get some PROPER CUTTING GOGGLES UV glasses for it you are killing the eyesite. Same for kid you were teaching. Started metal fab work in 1970s & still do it occasionally. Door warping angle braces inside on end. You could have run the angle iron (left/right) all way across door but in this case probably doesn’t matter. Also still can add a down draft (inside of door) box to putincoming air to bottom of fire box. Never used CNC type cutters only old power drives for long cuts & built our own auto pipe welders & rotator type feeders using cheap DC Grainger motor/gearboxes and controllers. Worked great cutting fish mouths in pipe and such.
I’m sure this isn’t ur rodeo with wood heat. But maybe it is. Surely sucks bending over to light up & load a wood stove. Take tht and the fact I bought a non pro saw to cut firewood at first was my two things I had to change. Now my stoves 50” off floor and I now own about 9 pro saws from 044 660 all different makes models. It’s addicting collecting the older muscle saws.
Bet when you get the duct work finished it'll throw off some decent heat. Here's hoping the warmer weather holds and you don't need it till next year though. That should give you about enough time to cut down a forest for next year's fuel to.😄
Door on stove looks too small, looks like door should be twice as high to make loading & cleaning easier, esp loading wood you want to burn in stove. Door should be at least 2/3 the size of end area of stove then you can load wood that wont burn up in 5 minutes. Seen a lot of shop wood stoves & they are 2/3 or better the size Diameter of stove Body. Every thing else on your stove looks great, like your fab skills. Guess you could use it a bit & decide if you want a bigger door later. Just my 2 cents, your call. Thanks for the watch
What better than a 1/2 or 3/4” hot plate welded in on top for coffee and heaven forbid steaks burgers or pork chops cookin and a wonderful smell in the shop? Throw another log on the fire.
Lol, I was full up on diy subscriptions. Your my kind of peoples. Lol. Thanks for not being a jackass. That’s high praise in my family… being a jackass is actually tolerated, but it’s frowned upon. lol
Been a Boilermaker for 30 years. You need a smoke shelf just in front of the stack tube inside to slow the turbulence of the fire going up the stack . Tractor Supply sells a barrel stove kit for the door for 80 bucks.
Extensive experience
building/using long fireboxes in cavernous spaces, chiming in.
Nice build, with some tweaks you'll get it dialed in; comments are mostly directed at the next build.
The legs should be connected to each other at the base. With aggressive loading, or a bump, they could fold.
Air intake should be as low as practicable, just above the usual fire base.
The fins and other heat exchanging refinements are nice. However, lacking that, a basic sheet-metal "tunnel" over the firebox combined with a blower fan will extract all the heat a firebox has to give.
A loading door doesn't need quite so much refinement. Something like a simple sliding flat plate is adequate.
The "crowned" loading-end of a pressure-vessel firebox can be mostly left in place. Cut a rectangular opening to "frame" a door. A short length of large tube would make a quick "frame" for a door opening.
Within reason, room permitting, and considering the typical available fuel, the firebox may as well be left at original length. The less processing of fuel, the better.
There should be a flame baffle located just below the flu connection. Restricts the direct pathway for a roaring "jet" of flame to climb the flu.
Build a "hoe" with long enough handle to reach the back of the firebox. Cut hoe's edge with a radius to match the barrel's radius. Use that to rake ash forward.
In practice a shovel and hoe beats most more complex ash clean-out arrangements.
Please don't take anything I've written as negative; its not the intention.
Thanks for sharing your build, it's great!
even light strap connecting the legs would help with racking maybe even add some to the top to Saddle it? i suggested open vent at the top o the jacket for natural convection flow. we had a stove with an insert in the flue with pipes through and a blower in it
Try a wite out pen to mark your cut lines. Fab Rats said that it works and doesn’t burn off ahead of the heat.
Nope they said some one said that & when they tried it it burnt off but a steel marking pen might work
Now that's a wood stove! Very nice job!
Thank you very much!
40:51 I really like your method of making the door hinge HCF. The gasket surface will never wear out since the fit is so precise. Peace v..
A stove laying on its side takes up valuable floorspace. Standing up gives that stove a chance to work like in a convection and burn the fumes as well.. Now standing up with the door on its side makes for any length of wood, and a space above the flame for any heat exchangers plus run that exhaust from the side as well. It causes the turbulent heat effect you need to get even wet wood to burn like kindling. That is a really nice and tall tank that makes for all the space needed for a perfect stove. I live in alaska where it is sixty five or more below zero. So getting tons of dry wood is so expensive and not even easy to find wood that can be burnt without a ton of creosote. Now standing it up makes it burn that creosote as well and you have seen chimney fires and how hot they are
Definitely a good start on it looks great
You'll need some type of grate in the bottom so your air will flow & for cleaning it out
Nope I used barrel stoves for year with no grate works fine but my draft feed was much lower ... my guess is the ash cleaning port will need to be used to help with draft or a channel will need to be put on back of door to direct feed of draft lower .....
@roro-jj1fv I have a Summer Heat model #50- SHN 35 LC . Simular to my old wood stove. Heats my entire house. Burns completely just powered ash leftover. Started with a barrel burner yrs ago. Always had unburned chunks in the bottom
Very nice build on your wood burner, or waste oil if you wanted to. I would agree with some that your venting should be in the bottom of the stove. I have seen quite a few of these built and the bottom half got fire brick and refractory mortar used, this will help with the life of your tank as it should get very hot with the appropriate fire buildin' Just a small voice from the cheap seats not criticizing just want it to keep you warm for decades!!
Air flow should be in the bottom clean out door. Otherwise you will only burn the top of your wood, really need a grate.
No wood burns best with air over the fire. Air through a grate from underneath is for coal
@benholler1389 been burning wood my whole life. Every wood stove I've ever owned pulled air up from the bottom. I'm 70 yrs old.
@@rickfox6995 I've had two different homemade wood boilers for the last 40 years, niether have a grate. they burn clean, with a outside air intake that enters from the rear top of the 4' long firebox thru 3" pipe, getting pre-heated, before feeding the fire at the very front. I don't burn 4' lengths of wood, 12 to 16", the 4' firebox is just a heat exchanger.
almost wanted to cry "NO" when you laid it on its side. Still enough to stand back up and build what I described. If I only could draw a picture of what I am talking about, then you would be convinced. I also burn all the trash in the shop in that stove and that helps a lot with how much a person can have. I even took the bags of trash from the house and burnt it in the stove and the little cans even melt and go away. Clean out once a year, and that is mostly curiosity that makes me do that. I even burnt parts of tree stumps in mine and they go completely away. I learned all of this from having a shake and shingle mill and the waste from making shakes and shingles was enormous until I made a burner
One other thing. The air damper should be on the bottom when you have the ash door. Better flow that way and your fire will burn hotter when you need it to.
Hey, what an absolutely beautiful stove! I am sure it will work (has worked) and, IT IS YOUR BABY- and you deserve to love every part of it, no matter what the heck else others might opine! Good job, sir! :) P. S. I hadn't watched the whole video or part 2 yet when I made my comments. It has warmed-up tonight. It is a nice toasty -16C (3.2F). :) Marcel from Saskatchewan.
Great job. Well done 👍👍
You need a grate, fire brick would help out also. This is a clever way to go on a wood burner.
No need for fire brick. You want the heat to go out through the metal not be kept inside. These types of stoves work better without them.
Wow. 65 is a perfect shop temperature. Good job, man! :)
Nice! Might wanna look into some fire brick. They also make a door sealing strip. Mike c
It's 3/16 and 1/4 plate so fire brick isn't needed. As for the door seal IDK yet! LOL
@@HardCoreFab ok gotcha. Love a wood burner. I hear my little 2 car shop with one.
Looks great. Not too late to get a secondary burn tube in the top
Which end is slightly higher? You're way over thinking it. The heat column up your chimney is going to provide draft that will overcome any slight difference in height. Keep your draft input low and exit high. TIP: You're building essentially a huge barrel heater. They quickly generate a LOT of heat but it's always a "feast or famine" routine. Not a big problem in a shop but you can smooth out the curve by adding thermal mass, like clay bricks, to absorb heat during "feast" and release heat during "famine." Great build. Thanks for some good ideas.
That would be the one argument for brick that I would say is valid!
I've got a feeling that the door is going to make it tough to load lots into the burn box. The bigger the logs the better. It means less cutting and handling wood and longer burns. It will need a layer of fire brick on the bottom of the burn box and a grate above that as well. It's a great start but refinements will make it better.
We will be burning mostly pallet wood. All the parts are 3/16 or 1/4 so it's not your average stove and will not need brick. I'm not a fan of grates so....
Very cool. Maybe look at options to burn used oil too. If firewood gets hard to find, setting an oil burner inside the burn box could be a good option, and it's basically free!
Awesome job Anthony! Love to watch your creativity
Thank you!
Also make sure that the stove can be completely shut down for its air as it will get so hot that you will want it in the center of the room. I built my first one and tried it outdoors so I could get the feel for what was needed. On the exhaust, make sure it is fairly low on the side of this tank and it causes convection! I know its a little slow to take off but some old greasy shop rags make excellent fire starter.
Just found you guys .... glad i did , i like your enthusiasm 🤘😀
You did a great job, I'm impressed. It's great that your pretty little boss lady likes it too! I wish you two many happy years together 🙂
Thank you!
Pro tip use white-out pen to mark on metal to cut with cutting torches the mark will not burn away you can see it the whole time your cutting
Any thought about running 2" pipe from front to back simolar to a water tube boiler. When fire is burning a fan at back of stove will blow through tubes inside stove and create a hot . the tubes will be open at back and front of stove.
I thought about that a lot actually. My concerns with running tubes inside the fire box like that are you would only have 50 inches of a run to pull the heat off of. Now I have 4x that which means you can blow 4x hard and 4x as much air. Also those tubes are prone to burning out. Lastly if it blows out the front then when I open the door it is going to want to suck the air out of the box and blow it in my face if the fan is on.
The heater seems like the fuel needs adjusted. Turned either up or down. On my contractor unit that takes care of it for me after I replaced all the fuel lines. Hope that helps.
Good job good job !!
one more thing b-4 we move on,, if you lay some fire brick in the bottom it will last the rest of your life, but if you dont it will burn out sooner or latter, wood ashes are corrosive in the off season so keep that in mind also and clean it out reall good when summer time comes, catch-u-latter...
Yes sir!
I've been thinking about trying to figure out how to make a burning grate that's hollow and has water pumped through it
The smell of burning paint. And thanks for letting me borrow an Allen wrench the other day.
That oily stuff was the worst! Happy to help brother!
I believe it is one of two things with your heater. It acts like it doesn't get enough fuel so my guess is either it is running out of fuel which could be caused by a hole in the pick up tube or more likely it needs the pressure turned up. Could also be something blocking the orifice the fuel shoots through.
Awesome build Anthony!
Thanks!
replace the rubber houses and there is a inline fuel filter on the tank draw house , it works just like a paint gun the fab motor is also a tiny air compressor pushing air across the fuel pick up tube in the fuel mixer on the center back of the burn chamber , all check the air filter
Stove looks great bigger door seems easier to service
If you want a good burn line, use a piece of chalk. It won't burn off during cutting and you can erase it easily for corrections. The kid looks like a good man with a torch, too. I wasn't much of a welder, but oh, boy, could I burn!!
Nice job. I agree with Johne189. A sheet metal heat jacket or plenum; let's say about 12 inches around the thing, or any combination, with an inlet for a fan to attach and and outlet for the hot air to leave; would complete the heating capacity of the furnace, I think. Looks very good, guys! Marcel from Saskatchewan. P.S. Just for laughs...it really was (no joke) -36C (-38.8F) outside here, last night. :)
@frenchcanadian1007 yeah it works great it's about 65 in the shop right now
SO big of a barrel. Such a small opening. 👎 Bigger door.
The door should be solid with out and openings period and the ash door solid as well. Rework the air intake to let combustion air enter the tank in two places with 90 degree steel pipes located at the ash door level. On on the right and one on the left with the open end of the intake pipes facing forward flush with the front of the tank. And install screw dampers easily adjusted in the front……. You WILL NEED!! To install a flu pipe adjustable damper in the stove pipe just above the top of the tank level about a foot above the top of the tank. This will give you maximum air adjustability for the combustion air and the exhaust/smoke exit side…. Looks good so far! That stove will probably be a 8”-10” flu pipe size. You will know when the exhaust damper is wide open and the intake damper is wide open and smoke is backing out thrust the intake into the shop if you guessed right on this on.😂😂😂😂. I’ve made that mistake before my self!
Well if it's not warm enough another tank or drum can be mounted above the original stove
Cut the pipe and set new smoke chamber in between the stove pipe but before doing this drill aligning 2" holes (or what ever tubing you have handy) in smoke chamber ....cut them to protrude an inch or two past end of smoke chamber.... use as many as you wish (5 -10 depending on size) on the back of chamber enclose end where pipes are protruding leaving room for air too enter tubing .... on sides mount a flag to mount an air duct of some kind then hook up to some kind of blower (furnace blower maybe) this way the excess heat going out the chimney will heat the tubing and the blower will push that heat out of the tubing as it repeats....if one part of shop is not warm enough fittings can be put on exposed ends of tubing to direct direction of heat .... or you can close of like the back and connect it to a duct work system routing heat more efficiently .... just a thought
just my 2 cents worth, but the damper is 2 high, it needs 2 be close to the bottom so it will suck the air thru the fire,, also i would have put the pipe out the end in the middle where you put the plate over the hole at the start, the way youv'e got it the draft will go thru the stove above the fire and out the back at the top and wont do as much good as it would if it goes thru the fire, other than that you did a hell of a good job, catch you latter...
Yeah I really wanted it on the bottom of the door. If it don't work than I think I can put one in the ash door if needed.
. Yeah the damper needs to be lower. And you need to build a grate for the bottom of it. So your fire isn't laying on the bottom . And over heating the metal .
It doesn't matter if the air comes in from the top or bottom. I have a few different stoves. Some of the dampers are on top and some are on the bottom. Just have to make sure your chimney is hot. She'll draft fine. You probably won't need the blower with the size of the stove. Nice build...
My thought was to put the air control as near the bottom as possible even below the fire if possible. I’ll bet that it’ll work as is, but for the next time.
Thank you for this video it’s interesting & I heat with Natural Gas so it doesn’t matter to me. But I like these videos, keep on keeping on.
you need to put a Damper on your flu ,it is used to slow down the flow through the stove and it is used to adjust your heat and you might not go through so much wood ,you need a great and if you would have put your draft adjust in your clean out door it would have been better, you will find out you should have made it half the length, if you just put a hole in the top of your cover hot air will rise and you won't need a blower ,just a few things I have learned feeding one of those beasts ,just my 2 cents 😉
think you should change your id to ," you need to".
just my 2 cents!😊
I love my vertical barrel stove but I aspire to build one like that size but use it to heat our house, shop, and melt snow on all our concrete as a boiler
Sounds like that would work great 👍🏻
Looking Amazing 👏
Thank you 😊
You have an air leak I nyour fuel pickup tube on your bullet heater had same problem
I'll have to check it out again!
You should have checked with Cory and Hannah Wheat! they have a bomb-assed heater in the shop! complete with a blower to force out the heat! Round tubes passed through along the top sides would amplify the heat also
Is that Steve JR ( CWC ) looks like a very well built stove you should get plenty of heat to heat your shop. Get the draft going and it will work very well. Like the way you did the heat exchanger to pull off more heat. The door looks nice, most stoves that are built at the stores have the air intakes at the top to burn more of the gasses that come off the smoke to get a cleaner burn once it is warmed up to operating temp.
LOL Steve! Well that's cool, hopefully I don't have to add another intake in the other door.
I was thinking the same thing!!🤣🤣🏁
to change the level you could add a set of adjusting bolts through the i beam with a plate across the width. IF you put your heat vent on the top it will naturally flow out and not Have to have a fan for it
true true
Sorry if this is a dumb question because I have never used a torch before but I noticed he only had regular safety glasses on not tinted ones. Should t he be using tinted ones?
It's all in who you ask! My grandfather use one for at least a couple of hours a day for the 30 some years he owned a salvage yard and I never once saw him wear glasses of any sort. My dad was the same way for almost as many years. I cut but a small fraction of what they did so I don't worry about it either. Plasma cutter I wear a tented shield. Having that said those old men where tuff and many people these days wear tinted glasses
You may need to move the intake vent lower so air goes under the fire. Maybe on clean out cover
I would say a dirty nozzle on the heater.. there is also an air adjustment screw. On the pump or close by it.. for fuel n air mix...or it has a pin hole in the fuel pick up line,,from tank to pump..sucking air ..🤷,,a few suggestions.....
If I was there I would be able to figure it out for ya,,
Plumbing and heating,, most of my like,, oil burners were are business in up state NY...
I'm sure you can fix it anthony. 😆,,,, You can toss it now,, you got a killer wood stove ,, 👍😎💯,,,,,,
I cleaned the nozzle and filter put new lines on it. I adjusted the air screw on the pump it just makes a bigger flame nothing for the study part of the flame. Do the nozzles wear out?
@@HardCoreFab dirty fuel will eat it up.. the fuel spins in channels of the nozzle to determine spray angel.. maybe try a new one... If you take it apart, screw under the filter.. filter screws on nozzle.. there is another screw inside. Take it apart you will see the groves ,, in the insert .( small parts warning,) ,,. any little spec of dirt scratches in it,,,will mess it up. The spray pattern of fuel... it's running to rich. With fire comming out the front.. so adjust air screw. Smaller flame.. there is also n eye to see the flame for safety shut off.. but it stays running just spits and sputters.. it's a fuel delivery issue... Or mixture.. what shape is the ignitor in.. once it's lite.. it shouldn't need ignitor but maybe. Sounds to me it's picking up air with the fuel feed line.. but I would start with new nozzle.. cheap easy. ,, Go from there... the cleaner the fuel the better it will run.. kerosene is what I would use..🤷
Here in Kansas, kerosene is way too expensive to burn all the time. We can buy jet A fuel for half the cost! I burn Number 1 diesel with no issues at all. But any moisture in the fuel will cause burn problems. All those parts are pretty cheap and they do wear out.
Did you purge the tank?
@daniellalor5500 What do you mean by purge
@HardCoreFab flush it out so whatever was in it does not poison you or explode? Using water or argon?
@daniellalor5500 you can see in the video it was already cut in half many years ago before I got it. We did do a couple of burnouts in it outside before setting it up in the shop
I will start with a apology for making several comments just possibly. I want to either address any questions I may be able to answer or just mention of ways I do or did things. That little heater is just fine, but.... always toss in a dang but, you need to run a small piece of pipe from outdoors where there is oxygen for it to burn right. Gotta have air to make combustion. Just a small one inch pipe or even a half inch air hose will draw in air
You could always cut some holes in the bottom of the legs weld in some nut and use bolts to use as a way to level it to what ever way you wanted.
Conner is really good at welding and cutting.
I am a new subscriber and like what I see. By the way I live in West Virginia.😊😊
Yeah I'm very happy to have him! Thanks for the sub! I hope you keep you entertained!
Do you have a grate on the bottom ?
no didn't want it in my way for cleaning the ash out
For the ankle burner the injecter is dirty or a pump fin may be bad
Why fit such a tiny door on such a large burner it means your gonna have to spend more time cutting your wood up smaller to fit it. if your worried about weather its level just drill a hole weld a nut and put a bolt through then you've got fully adjustable feet. .
Plan on burning mostly pallet wood so the door isn't a thing. It will probably get some feet like that in the end.
it's obvious you don't do much with round objects or pipe,that being said there's a certain satisfaction that comes from building your own woodstove!
Your door is way too small. There’s tons of good information on the Internet regarding how to build a stove. Obviously you didn’t research it at all .
LOL
Nice, from Missouri
Is your blow heater low on oil
no it's full
Cool!😜
check the fuel tube on your diesel heater it sounds like its sucking air in fuel line just a thought
I forgot to mention that the only sand needed can go in the very bottom, and a small door if needed for ash can be put in it. It may take a year tho to get enough ash to even want to remove it as that is all gone in the very little smoke it lets out
You could do with putting à slide on the chimney to cut down air flow in chimney.
Once the chimney warms up, it will draw.
You will need a minimum of 8inch chimney for a stove that size
I have been using barrel stones for heat for 67 years. I like your stove, but I think you’d be happiest if you can put a draft control in your ash door. The trouble you were having getting an out of round tank to fit your round stove. End would’ve been easier to solve with dogs and wedges than it was with those clamps.
Doggone spellcheck changed barrel stoves to barrel stones
Bad fuel to start with and blow out the line if the fuel line is rubber or in a lot of those they have a steel or aluminum line . And some of them use a rubber line as a coupler to hook the steel or aluminum to the fuel exit or inside of the tank. and those rubber lines will start to come apart internally and cause problems. Another big problem is the spark plug if it's been cleaned before then just replace it and the big thing that you might have to play with to get the heater RUNNING correctly is the gap on the plug. If you are running anything but k-1 kerosene, then you really need to pay attention to the gap.. most of the TIME OTHER fuel we end up using sometimes has a lower flash point.. So what I was shown over 40 years ago. was just like any thing else that has a spark plug pull the plug and with the tank empty of fuel pull the spark plug out and hook it to the plug wire and make sure that the spark plug is grounded good. Then plug it in and power it up and see how the spark looks. Don't trust a used plug!! Especially if it's been cleaned a half dozen times one time you could get lucky. But anyways with kerosene you want a pretty big gap. The 0.29 to 0.035 thousands of a inch is normally where I start with.. Basically you want to run as big of a gap as possible. You want to make sure that the spark is jumping even Time like it should if the gap gets to big it might jump it once then a second later it jumps again.. it needs to be a good hot rapid spark if you Play with the gap from smaller to bigger you will see what I'm talking about..
So if you can run the gap at 0.035 thousands or so. With anything other than new kerosene you will probably need to tighten the gap to about 0.022 to 0.027ish .on any other fuels other than new clean kerosene. You might never get some fuels to burn without the heater coughing like that.. but over many years and at least a dozen different heaters like that I had a old guy show me that trick and explained it to me. And I've fixed all my buddies and family members heaters like yours.
Number 1.. new and clean fuel and fuel system!!
Number 2.. new spark plug... if it's never been cleaned before you might get lucky and be able to get by with cleaning it. I don't even chance it I just get a new one...
Number 3 the spark plug gap. The bigger you can run the better. Don't forget if you can't get spark all the time try smaller gap some don't have the power to jump a bigger gap. Or the power that supplies spark is low.
This has helped me and many people out over the years..
PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU WOULD.. THANKS.. IF THIS WORKED FOR YOU...THANKS ANDY.....BOB......
It has new fuel and new fuel lines. There is no spark plug with this heater and it is firing good strong and steady!
@HardCoreFab those electronic igniters are known to break down once warm and that's exactly what they seem to do is keep that sputter... not trying to acted like I am the master of those types of heaters. It's just here in northern Michigan it seems like everyone of my buddies only have those for heat in their garage in the winter and they are always asking me to come. Over to help them on a sxs or snowmobile. And when they acted like yours dose it gives me a bad headache. So when I'm at a buddies place and their's is doing that they know I'm going to fix it and and next thing you know I'm
Tear into the heater too fix it before I work on the sxs or snowmobiles. Lol....
So that's the only reason I have said anything about it and you asked. But honestly I'd try a new igniter. I've seen the fix one before ....good luck...Bob....
Right on! I'll look into that.
Your motor bearing is seizing up on that blower. It’s probably rusty from being in moisture. You probably have to replace to blow a motor or the motor for the burner. I’m not sure which it was the same one or not.
Just to let u know u will need a larger door
Nice build. It needed an 8 foot piece of stove pipe to get the draft going. I just might have to plagiarize your build. It evolved nicely.
Go for it! I copied the general idea of it from one that has been heating an old farm building for 30 years!
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️👍🏻 Awesome job!
Thank you!
Look at the one Cory wheat customs made it had air tubes in it
Nice build
Thanks! It's all 3/16 and 1/4 so I think we are good as far as brick. I don't want a grate to deal with when I'm cleaning it.
So much for work place safety. No safety glasses on a large part of this project.
Good EYE!
Why don’t you use holdfasts on your work bench ?
No wholes!
I Have the Same Heater, My Handle/Leg Tubing is Custom Bent but other than that Identical. Even the Flame Pop & Fuel And or Exhaust Smell from Our Leg Burner 2000. New Subscriber, I’ll hang til we get the Torpedo Heater Saga Repaired. I need My Damned Heater. You Fella’s Keep It Safe Out There, I’ll catch You on the Next One.
I think your damper is fine my idea that I've seen a lot was put heavy greating on the bottom then you can make a shovel to get in the bottom and get ash out I would also put some gussets on them legs over time and heating cycles they will most likely start bending from or more likely back from force of throwing wood in great idea about the angle around the door a guy built a really heavy box that big and didn't do it and over time the bottom lip bent in from shoving wood in it it was up at hunting camp they had the people seeing them take it up there believeing it was a bear trap lol I remembered that as soon as I saw yours
I have made a lot of barrel stoves I put plate on top then you can cook or make hot water on it that was our hot water for camp
Oops sorry I thought your damper was on the bottom yes it's too high sorry I was commenting while watching and just got to that part lol but yes make damper on bottom door
bar grate inside keep the fire off the the bottom that'll offset the front vent thats not at the bottom its just a bit high
Thanks!
Editing as video goes.
Cutting w the torch, get some PROPER CUTTING GOGGLES UV glasses for it you are killing the eyesite. Same for kid you were teaching.
Started metal fab work in 1970s & still do it occasionally.
Door warping angle braces inside on end. You could have run the angle iron (left/right) all way across door but in this case probably doesn’t matter.
Also still can add a down draft (inside of door) box to putincoming air to bottom of fire box.
Never used CNC type cutters only old power drives for long cuts & built our own auto pipe welders & rotator type feeders using cheap DC Grainger motor/gearboxes and controllers. Worked great cutting fish mouths in pipe and such.
put the short side of hinges on door and long side on frame
You could have used a hinge as part of the slide damper rail….
I’m sure this isn’t ur rodeo with wood heat. But maybe it is. Surely sucks bending over to light up & load a wood stove. Take tht and the fact I bought a non pro saw to cut firewood at first was my two things I had to change. Now my stoves 50” off floor and I now own about 9 pro saws from 044 660 all different makes models. It’s addicting collecting the older muscle saws.
We are going to burn mostly pallet wood so I hope to not cut much wood. I do dig the heck out of some of those old saws!
Bet when you get the duct work finished it'll throw off some decent heat. Here's hoping the warmer weather holds and you don't need it till next year though. That should give you about enough time to cut down a forest for next year's fuel to.😄
That would be awesome if i didn't need it tell next year! I think we'll burn mostly pallet wood. So it shouldn't be to bad.
Check the orfice they get bad and it won't burn right
Door on stove looks too small, looks like door should be twice as high to make loading & cleaning easier, esp loading wood you want to burn in stove. Door should be at least 2/3 the size of end area of stove then you can load wood that wont burn up in 5 minutes. Seen a lot of shop wood stoves & they are 2/3 or better the size Diameter of stove Body. Every thing else on your stove looks great, like your fab skills. Guess you could use it a bit & decide if you want a bigger door later. Just my 2 cents, your call. Thanks for the watch
Need to put a big tray underneath the catch all the ashes, so you can just pull it out and dump it.
What better than a 1/2 or 3/4” hot plate welded in on top for coffee and heaven forbid steaks burgers or pork chops cookin and a wonderful smell in the shop? Throw another log on the fire.
Very Good idea.
Your a master with that cut off torch 🔥🔥🔥
Makes a nice biochar burner
Replace spark plug .👍
Use it awhile andyou can change things if needed.
Make sure all your rubber hoses are in goood shape
Check sixty five ford ( he shows you how to adjust the pump feed with a vauum gauge)
I has a gauge built into it and I played with the adjustment. I changes the size of the flame but not how study it comes out.
New to your channel and I like you already
Welcome!! and Thanks!!
Glad your us8ng safety glasses however get some cutting glasses to save your eyes.
Lol, I was full up on diy subscriptions. Your my kind of peoples. Lol.
Thanks for not being a jackass.
That’s high praise in my family… being a jackass is actually tolerated, but it’s frowned upon. lol
Lol Thanks for the sub!
Get your helper some safety glasses!!!!!!!