A nifty trick I learned from my dad working at his Oilfield and drilling rig Instrumentation repair shop to clean metals, especially Aluminum and Brass, is to use a container, a coffee tin or plastic 1 gallon ice cream bucket or 5 gallon bucket for larger jobs, of suds-free Ammonia with an aerator/bubbler, I use an aquarium air pump hooked to a short length of copper tubing, with the end pinched, make sure it's suds-free or you'll have a huge bubbly mess. Let your parts "bubble" overnight and you will have a hard time telling new parts from old. The equipment we work on is sometimes 50 years in the field and been chugging away almost everyday of it's life so you can imagine the condition of some of this stuff. I grew up working in his shop and ended up going into automotive, I'm an ASE certified technician for over 15 years now and I've never seen car parts, in their worst condition, even come close to some of this rig equipment and all it takes is an overnight in this to perfectly clean them. It's insane how well it works. I have seasoned mechanics ask what I do to clean my parts, especially carbs, and I never tell, this is the first time I've ever shared this, try it, you won't be disappointed.
I applied this method w my boat that was sitting for 10 years. Started right up. I'll be Replacing the carb and fuel pump, and draining out the old gas.
I stumbled across your channel whilst procrastinating at work and must say you are brilliant. You're one of the only TH-camrs that really explains things in full detail. I have a CBR900RR '99 model. We all know how an inline 4 should sound, and how a V twin sounds. The problem I'm having is that the inline 4 engine is firing like a V twin (in my opinion). I've cleaned the jets out thoroughly, done a compression test, and all i can think that's left is the mixtures/balancing. Your newer videos regarding balancing and mixture screws have helped me understand what to do and how to do it 10000% better than I knew before, so THANK YOU! Keep up the amazing work, and I hope to see more videos soon!
+Usual Suspect This is super encouraging to hear, thank you so much for taking the time to let me know the content is helpful! I truly hope to bring more value to your TH-cam experience! Ride safe brother 🤙🤙
I'm having the same issue on a 93 cbr 900rr. Sound like a vtwin and is not firing on #4 cylinder, have cleaned carbs and checked spark and compression with no luck. What did you find to be the problem with yours?
It is currently September 19, 2018. I bought a 2000 suzuki bandit 600. Paid 500 for it. Previous owner said it was a fuel probably. Came home to start and it kept cranking but couldn’t figure out why it wouldn’t start. Then finally it took 4 days to find this video. And holy shit , once that starter fluid hit those carbs! It started!!! I literally thank you! You don’t know how much work you saved me from. Now time to clean those carbs!!! Thank you man!!! 🙌🏽
Ohh lord, i have been researching this for hours. This is exactly what ive been experiencing! My bike has stood along for 10 years. And finally am I going to get it driving again, ill do a carburator check and clean tmrw. If this works ill be thankful to the greatest, im already am. Thank you for my hopes.
just subscribed in an effort to remedy the suspected dirty carb on my 08 ninja 250...you've got the yt personality that I can appreciate. keep the channel going in its current direction. thumbs up G.
Thank you for this video. Hoping you can help direct me. I have a 2009 Honda VT750C2 with 20,000 miles. I ride nearly every day and have been doing all the maintenance. Recently I've had an issue where the bike won't turn over. Before I followed your tip, I worried I had run out of gas, or the petcock vacuum was stuck, or maybe the carb was sticky or something. I noticed that I had the fuel shut off so I figured I had run the gas in the line out while I was letting it idle on choke to warm up. I bought a vacuum hand pump and confirmed the petcock was working correctly. Then I found your starter fluid tip and that worked great to get my engine started again and the bike has been running fine for a few months. Today, the same thing happened with the starter, but again I have a full tank of gas and I didn't have the fuel shut off this time. The starter fluid into the carb got it started again and it is starting again on its' own, but now I'm wondering if there's a deeper issue I need to look into. How would you diagnose this?
My vmax had one carb that took forever to fire up. My problem was with vboost working on it myself was scary. But I'm sure I could have done it. Finally got to point where it wouldn't fire up at all. 450 bucks later they're all running fine now. Multi carbs are a science to be sure. Hope your channel works out. Good luck.
The first thing most new buyer's want to do is tear the carbs apart before checking all this other stuff, and then they have a long list of possible woes to sort thru before they even know if all else is okay. Great place to start diagnosis.
I'm having trouble getting my 98 cbr600 started, First thing I did was change plugs, it gave it a little extra "umhf" but no start. I'm definitely going to try the starter fluid now
Thank you for the vid. Bike sat idle for a year,, got a new battery and it still won't fire. But I'm going to try this and hopefully it will give me somewhere to start
When I used work at a repair place to fixing mowers, strimmers, chainsaws ect. I had a trick to starting engines. I had a trigger spray of petrol or two stroke mix in a trigger spray and would spray directly into the carb intake to see if it would fire. When I bought my first non running motorcycle, A 2004 Honda Varadero XL125V that had been left stood for over two years with a full tank of E5 petrol, I sprayed fuel into the carb intakes and it started but wouldn't run. I opened the carbs to find the float bowls dry but had a green coating and the jets were completely blocked. I didn't have the correct jets to hand so I fitted the next size up and it ran fine.
Ya boi just earned himself a subscription. For real though, it's awesome that people put up all this content. I didn't necessarily need this video but if it helps more people get into bikes, even tangentially, it's awesome. The only bad part is that $500 bikes with dirty carbs will be harder to come by :D
I've watch all your carb related videos and subbed. I don't think I they resolved my issue yet. I have 1993 suzuki katana gsx600f. Its got a stock air box and stock header. But the pipe is off of a 2004? I'd Imagine its basically the same as stock. I took down and cleaned all the carb parts last week. I put new fuel in it also found a couple vacuum leaks. All good (so I thought.) after filling up then about 100 miles (last year I was getting closer to 150) I ran out of gas. Ok that's odd but maybe I was running it hard or something. I get it home after filling the tank again. The next morning all my fuel had drained through the carbs into the crank case, cylinders, filter box. I take it all apart again and clean everything. I took extra time to inspect the float valves. Didn't see any issues. Adjusted the floats and double checked it was all clean. Put it all together start it up rode across the street to the gas station fill it up and suddenly starts and barley will idle at WOT... It dies and won't start. Walk it home about 5 min later I have the air box off. It's full again. Taking it apart is getting old. Ordered a complete rebuild kit and dyno jet kit. I put the stage 3 kit in that's supposed to work with the stock box. Now it will idle perfectly fine but it will not throttle up at all. Then it all the sudden decides to red line and stay there till I can get the kill switch turned off. I'm assuming I'm getting too much fuel. I followed all of the instruction on the kit and am completely unsure where to go from here. Do I put the stock jets or the stage 1 kit that came with it in? With the stock main jets it wouldn't quite idle till it was warm. I know the mains are not supposed to affect idle? So why will it idle with the bigger jets (same idle jets)? Is it related to the idle air screw? Any one have a good place to start?
Hey, thanks for the video, and easing my mind. I was hesitant to try and use starting fluid to see what was up with my 92 FZR600. I know from working on cars too much is a baaaaad thing. Anyways, got my ride started, but having idle issues. At first, when cold, it wanted to always die, feathering the throttle can keep it running, then when warmed up it wanted to race without any additional throttle. Now it doesn't want to idle at all regardless as to how much I turn the idle adjustment screw. I let my son take it in to his high school shop class, the bike had been sitting last 6 years, in the hopes that with supervision he could get the carbs all cleaned up and everything back in running condition. I am not sure how deep he went into the cleaning aspect. I was suspecting a vacuum leak, but with it running I used the starting fluid and hit carb to intake connections, and vacuum lines with no change in the idle so that tells me that part is solid. Now I am not sure where to go. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
Great video I have a problem here in the UK My wife's xt225 is a pig to start in cold weather It will start after 5/6 attempts but is frustrating Will this method be the same with the starter fluid Keep doing what your doing as you do it well 👍
Hey! thats the same bike I'm working on right now! '68 Honda CB350... just bought a CB360 / 350f disc brake front end for it. So that should arrive soon. It was (and is!) my first road bike, so I don't think I'll ever sell it.. i already have most of my build mapped out.. it's just being able to have enough disposable income every fortnight compared to my paycheque. Shipping from the States to Australia ain't cheap! Oh yeah, it wouldnt run for anything. tried everything. Ended up getting finding an original keyster carb kit in Germany. P:ut that through the carbs , and cleaned everything, and changed the jets to new ones and she fired up pretty much first time and ran like a champ. Gonna put new ignition coils on it soon, as the current ones are looking pretty ratty. Electronic ignition would be nice, but I can't afford that right now.. I love my cafe racer builds!!
Awesome video! I have an 82 yamaha seca that will not start. New battery, plugs, wires starter rebuild. Almost had something once but just does nothing. It'll turn but no fire. Any suggestions??
As always great video , my 4cyl motorcycle (05 Yamaha royal star ) it will take a long time to rev down and is also using a lot of gas , where should I begin? Check for leaks with starting fluid ? Thanks in advance…
hi man. i'm having problems with my carburator. i guess. it stalls when i get the revs down. when im going at high revs it goes well as soon as i get it to 2000 rpms it stalls and stops eventually. to get it going i fiddle with the choke button and then go . what is the problem with my bike ???
Even this is 7 years old video, issues are still the same, as long carburetors are there in the wild. I am not mechanic, and basically first mechanical experience I gain with my KLE500 (two cilinder carburetor bike), and I get situation that I cannot solve and I resist to get my bike to service (I want to understand and fix with my own hands :D ) Situation - inside, in garage, its a bit colder than outside. Outside its about 18 degrees and straight sun shine. When inside, I can keep trying with satarter to spin it, nothing happens, maybe some puffs, but not even close to idling motor (last year, I had no issues starting it in any temperature). I take the bike out, put it in straight sunlight, after about 30 minutes sunbath, with little throttle, with full choke - I can get it running, although, still bogs down, I need to hold throttle open. Then RPMs raises, so I can leave throttle alone. After couple of minutes - I can reset down choke. As soon I had a chance to check, both exhaust pipes (right after cylinders) were 330 degrees celsius hot. First - I changed original stock exhaust to Dominator. After I started to get these issues, I screwed up the idle knob - it came out and I was not able to put it back. I removed carb, put the screw back in, then I was not able to get bike running inside in garage. I took out carb once more, checked pilot jet, cleaned it (with break cleaner, I didn't have carb cleaner), it didn't look clogged even before, float tray didn't have any rust or debris. I am not sure, what is exactly wrong with my bike - why it is not starting cold?
Good shit bro. I'm an L1 Master tech in automotive n i recently had the $$ to finally get into bikes as much as i always wanted to so mechanically/electrically im already inclined but to know each component and different adjustments/tips/tricks u name it, i want to learn it. So even a very inexpensive & simple solution as this is great. Make some videos on idle adjust screws, maintenance, brakes, carb cleaning/rebuilding/symptoms & hell even an engine tear down if u have a scrap motor, and i'd def suscribe n spread the word. Take it easy keep it up
Hey man if I email you send a vid of my bike, will you help me out on what is the problem? Back story, bike is been sitting for 3 years, got a new battery, put a gallon of 93 and it turns over but doesn’t fully run. Might be the carb?
i determined i was out of gas, my trip was set to 0 last time i got gas, and it was 89 miles ago, i thought for sure i could've gone to 150miles on a tank of gas. Honda shadow 750 ace
Usually a stuck needle from today's ethanol fuels. I cringe at the thought of using starting fluid (ether) to achieve a fast revving startup after sitting for too long. I pull the plug, and spray in some WD-40 while slowly turning the engine over to work it into the rings and cylinder walls. Now, I wouldn't cringe at introducing ether for a short diagnostic blip. Just don't keep spraying it!
That's great and all and it worked for me but what happens if you take apart the carbs clean it End and it doesn't even start with starter fluid anymore like it did in the beginning If starter Fluid worked But didn't after the cleaning?
hello, I am having an issue with my 82 Honda v45 magna. I removed the carbs and cleaned the bowls and Jets because I couldn't get the bike to run without the Choke. I finally got all the Jets clean and reinstalled the carb onto the bike. Now my issue when the bike is idling without the choke on and I try to blip the throttle it dies. I'm stuck on what to do next
Did you soak the carbs in any solution? Just because the jets and bolts are clean it doesn't mean that the all internal tunnels, ports,and transfer circuits are clogged up. You probably don't want to hear this but I would recommend taking the carbs back out and really diving in. Often times peoples idea of "I cleaned the carbs already" is far from what that actually requires to be true.
Hey , not sure if you can help me out but I bought an older chinese kids atv and it wont start without starter fluid . But when sprayed into the carb it runs fine and will restart when warmed up no problem . It idles kind of lumpy and burns a lot of blackish smoke . Everyone says it's running quite rich . When I adjust the air fuel mixture screw it basically does nothing until it's all the way in. That's when it just dies . I can basically turn the screw all the way out and it doesn't seem to make a difference . The idle screw seems to work fine in increasing and decreasing the idle but the off mixture makes it idle rough regardless. Any advice or opinion on the matter would be greatly appreciated. Love your videos . Thanks
Love your vids brother. This reminded me of my issue im having kind of. Im battling the issue of bike will start and idle on and off choke perfectly, but the moment I give throttle, it wants to die as if the main jet were clogged but its not. Although if I spray a couple squirts I can rev it to normal rpm. I'm so confused cause I triple checked the carbs and jets and diaphragms and needles and all and it'll only rev to normal rpms if I spray it while running.
Got a question for you to figure out. 92 ninja 600r. Been running really good. Took it on a bike run saturday. Over 100 miles. Ran great. Sunday went out to a friends house. Ran great. After a couple of hours, when i start it to leave, skipping and stuttering like crazy. In neutral it clears up, 1st gear, spitting and sputtering, and the tach is jumping up and down. Ride it home, it continues. With more throttle it clears up. Does it really bad in 1st and 2nd. Carbs have been cleaned twice in 2 months. 2nd fuel filter installed weeks ago. I'm at a loss. Any help please???
Sounds like the stator could be going bad. Long rides like that are hard on stators they get heat soaked. When you said the tach needle was jumping all around that was a tell. They typically do that under low voltage.
I have a 1980 Honda CM400E. Lately when running in Neutral or 1st(don't know beyond those gears), it keeps dying if not applying throttle. Sometimes it dies when initially applying a small amount of throttle. It dies again and again, and then drips gas heavily at the bottom of the bike. It appears to drip from a bolt down below. Do you have any ideas for what this might be? Thanks. I live in Cherry Valley, Ill., and I am looking for a decent mechanic. Thanks.
Cody, great stuff. Are you able to do a vid on a 2000 Intruder 1400? The reason I ask is that for the novice, (me), I struggled with a seemingly simple compression test. But it went out of bounds due to the unknown de compression valves, and that they were out of sync. Plus one was running 25% open all the time. I had bizarre psi's. But after a long struggle I understood this and adjusted both to fully open, ( which solved for some a starting problem, like a dead battery). So if you have time. Appreciated.
I have an old trail bike, and it was running till I dumped too much marvel mystery oil in the intake. I've checked to make sure the carb is working, and it does, I can get the engine to run by dumping gas into the cylinder, but it just takes off once it starts. If I let it, it will probably rev until detonation. Does have a suicide throttle thing going on but I can see that the throttle is completely closed. What do you think is going on?
The last dirty carb I successfully cleaned was burning rich, with black plugs (both plugs in a V twin) and blue smoke out the exhaust. I did a little head scratching on that one. Why would a dirty carb lead to rich combustion?
Hello mate just quick question have you ever use Seafoam for cleaning carbs or any other chemical substance and what is your personal opinion or experience, you are big help and love all your videos cheers
Hey Cody, quick question. Have an XJ650 1982 Yamaha. Started my motor without the pod filters, used the hand cover technique. It started fine and idled fine. Then I put on my K&N pods, now it's having trouble to start. What's the cause?
Bought a gs650e. To save a backstory, could the bike still function with all stock jets, but with an emulsion tube and the jet needle for an 850? I'm having a lot of trouble with the idle and determining whether it's too rich or lean.
I have a 94 intruder 1400. Just got it. Runs weak. Front cylinder plug was fouled when I got it(black wet with gas). Bike sat over winter before I bought it. Replaced both plugs. Still runs weak. Is driveable but I have to really twist the throttle to get it where it should go much easier. Linkage to both carbs is intact. Bike feels like a giant ninja 250. Pipes are gold I'm told that means running lean. Checked new plugs after 2 mile ride on highway. Front cylinder plug barely ashy. Brownish creamy white not full white. Both factory plugs are still over both AF screws so I know the mixture is set to factory. My initial thought is pull and clean carbs but I'm not sure I can sync them with what I have in my shop. Any thoughts on a direction to take?
I have a 1981 gs450 that I am putting together. The bike was sold to me without carbs. I bought a set off ebay, cleaned them, and put everything back together. I had to re wire the bike, so I was concerned about the ignition, but I was getting nice fat spark. Compression was good. After got everything back on, I couldnt get any thing only get a crank no start. Tried to diagnose the problem with the starter fluid, even then got nothing but cranking. Any ideas where I should go next?
First time owner of a 1974 cb360. I have backfiring and my bike dies when I’m coming to a stop after riding. Seems like I have too lean of a mixture. 😊
Got an 86 Honda goldwing GL1200 ASPENCADE. Doesn't like to idle without choke and will stall if accelerated. Can spray starter fluid and revs up. Suggestions?
Great video love it. Question i have a dirtbike Lifan 125 engine, kicks right up idles fine, when i go through the gears it severely lacks power, backfires excessively on deceleration, and makes spitting noises when throttling. Put new plug in old one had alot of soot, exhaust has alol of soot in the front and back. I think its running too rich or the float is messed up, i can almost tighten the screw on the carb down to barely nothing and it will still run. but i feel it maybe more than that. It'll start with choke closed almost first kick and sprays fuel out with the air filter out when kicking it. any ideas?
At first thought it almost sounded like the cam timing or ignition timing is out. Regardless, it is definitely WAY too rich. Either the main jet dropped out in the bowl, float issue, blockage in the intake (air filter area), main jet needle clip is wrong position ect. If I where you I would buy you a brand new carb to replace that one. Those Chinese/Taiwan made motors are cheap. I bet you could find a carb for it for 50$ shipped to your door. Save the headache and start fresh.
thanks for the reply, ended up figuring out last week it was the timing. the flywheel was not attached properly. Still running rich though so looking to get a new carb. Thanks for the advice !
Hello, I own a Dr250s that I have bought. The bike itself isn't running the best, It doesn't idle at a constant level, and It has a major delay on the throttle while in motion. The delay isn't there or at least not noticeable while in neutral. To my knowledge, it has been ridden alot over the past 6 years with out much service... What could this be? and could i do it myself or should i take it into a shop?
+Ethan Honestly brother might be a good idea to get a professional to check it out with the amount of hours put on that. I would hate for you to spend more time combing through non-issues to figure out what's going on. May be time for a good valve job and a solid diagnosis from a trusted tech.
Hi bro. I got a '94 Kawi. Cleaned carb, did valve clearences (maybe a little loose), new battery, adjusted float, is now starting and idling finally... but when i give throttle, it either bogs, or revvs very high and hangs there. I got one leak between the carb and the filter, air side. Can that be the problem? Mixture screw 2.5 turns, i dunno man
Just got a engine rebuild an after 15mins of driving the bike cut out an won't start it's lost a bit of compression? Was a bit tight after rebuilding! There's a sound coming from where the piston is an it's sounds like air or a big pump or something ? Any idea what this is ? Maybe my carb
I got a question, bike runs smooth idles good besides one cylinder, the cylinder has spark, the cylinder will run with the other three if I spray starting fluid, and when I drain the bowl it has fuel in the bowl, what would cause it to not get fuel if there is fuel in the bowl. There is a hole in the diaphram of the slide I know that. Could the leaky diaphram cause it not get fuel at all even at idle?
Should the engine stay running if I continue to hit it with starting fluid? I have a CN250 that starts on starter fluid and dies in seconds even when continuing to feed starter fluid
hi man. i'm having problems with my carburator. i guess. it stalls when i get the revs down. when im going at high revs it goes well as soon as i get it to 2000 rpms it stalls and stops eventually. to get it going i fiddle with the choke button .
I have an old kz650 with mikuni CV carbs and it only runs when I spray starting g fluid into the carbs it'll rev up high then die, and I too lean? Or possibly a clogged jet?
what's the BEST cleaner in your opinion to SOAK the carbs in ??? all i can find is water based garbage, and we all know that doesn't work. any idea would help THANKS in ADVANCE.
Hey man I have a ninja 250 that was sitting for about 2 years at first it would shut off on idle when giving it gas. The carbs were cleaned as well as dumping the bad gas and now it runs and doesn’t die however there is some power loss I have to twist the throttle all the way down which is unusual. The bike just feels different. Do you think changing the spark plugs can fix my bike?
Hey I have a cb50 1970 my carburetor is leaking and we can’t figure out what is going on. And after a week of leaving it alone now the fuel switch Isn’t sending fuel into the carburetor. Any suggestions?
I have a CB350 that I got a few months ago. It runs rough. Carbs are clean, valves are adjusted and everything. It stutters in idle and mid range, can't get it to idle at below 1100 without it cutting out. How do I tell if it's too lean or too rich? Also, how do I go about tuning the carbs and syncing them?
Hey I just purchased an old KZ440 and I'm getting a miss at 1500 rpm's. The guy I got it from said it may be the boots or diaphragm. He suspected there might be pin holes in the diaphragm. Does that sound plausible to you? The miss will cause it to die if I don't give it more gas. Anyone got any idea's I would surely appreciate them.
I cleaned my carburetor on my scooter, but when I rev, the idle revs down slowly or hangs up. I already checked for leaks and it doesnt have any. What do you think is the problem?
Very useful info but I habe a question, I have a 1982 honda cb650sc, clean, coated tank, rebuilt pet cock, and carbs with a brand new ignition system. When I go to start it on full choke or without the choke it will begin to run then die before I even release the starter button. I'm wondering if this is an issue with the jets or possibly a timing issue?
Hey was seeing if you could help with adjustments of the throttle cable from the carb? My throttle adjustment is maxed out on my bars and my throttle still sticks when I turn the bars to the right and it's super sensitive in all other positions of the bars. Thanks for the videos keep them up!! I have a 83 Honda nighthawk 650.
Hey Brian, I'll try my best! Are you still using the the stock handlebars,cables, and or risers? How confident are you that the cable routing is correct?
TheMotorcycleMD yes everything is stock. Im pretty confident because I can get it adjusted pretty good except when I turn the bars to the right the cable has way to much tension on it and sticks. Is there something else it could be? Does adjusting the throttle cable at the carbs loosen the cable or it if a different adjustment altogether? Thanks!!
Hi Cody! Thanks for the great vid! i have a 78 cb400t. I think it's the same as the hawkii. im running the carbs of a 79 cm400. stock 78 cb jetting is 75/110. stock 79cm is 70/112. the common belief is of course performance can be improved b/c factory shit is too lean. i stuck the 75 in there, so im running 79cm carbs primary up from 70 to 75, and 112 secondary. When i cold start it, it starts out good then roars way up to high rpm (dead tach). choke doesnt do anything when thats going on, i tried winding in the idle screws to 1/2 a turn out each and that made no difference either. I could just put the old jets back in, but id rather understand wtf i did here. why are my primaries causing high idle? 1 carb was leaking, so i fucked around with the float to raise the needle a little. cant see that doing it either,but obviously im missing something!! Thanks bruh!!
So i have a 81 cb650c ive cleaned tje carbs and put it all back together. When it starts it iddlesas at about 2k and then after warming up it goes to 5k and bounces around alittle. Ive disconeted the throttle cables the choke is not on have the pilot screws at 2 1/8 turns from being set and idle screw not even touching the idler. Ive bench synced it and I have no vaccum leaks that i can detect and all the jets seem to be not clogged. Im unsure where to go from here.
Hey! I would have one question: I have adjusted the float level on my carburetor, and replaced the float needles. Now after the winter the bike will not start. I am wondering whether it is due to the earlier modifications - I even tried a bit of starting fluid but it did not start. Does that mean it is something else than the carbs or can it still be the carbs but they are way too rich?
hi Buddy, I own a Skyjet sj125-26 (Chinese bike was all I could get with my budget) and I had to change the carb because it was losing top end power. and now I have changed the carb to a brand new one the bike is maxing out on revs. I have checked for air leaks and also the throttle is working the way it should but no matter what I try or have looked at I still can't get to the problem. do you have any suggestions please?
The Motorcycle MD I have tries the idol screw and it has no effect I can pull the throttle and no difference in revs. by maxed out revs I mean its like I have the bike of full throttle and it increases when I take the choke off
David North head over to motorcyclemd.com/what-i-can-help-you-with/ and send me a message through the form at the bottom of the page. I would like for you to send me one or two pictures to see what kind of carb your working with.
Why would my 95 Yamaha virago 535 all of a sudden no power at high throttle. It starts and revs but just all of a sudden after not driving most winter it started doing this and backfiring. And why would my pilot screws have to be all the way in to get a good air fuel mixture using Gunson Colortune??? Should I check if my fuel pump is pumping enough. I did clean out my gas tank 6 months ago and might of had some water in it still idk. It was at least running good. Help please!!
Hi ya great video...i have an issue with my bike I feel it may be carb related...the only thing is it happens sometimes not all the time..i am getting bogging in power low down in the revs then as I drop off the accelerator to compensate it takes off...any ideas...as I said though doesn't happen every time. Cheers.
I recently bought a 03 ninja 500 with low miles, battery is new, the choker cable is moving, the guy said the carburetors were recently cleaned. Normally it should turn over even on cold weather. I keep cranking the bike until the battery dies with no luck and eventually I resort to jumping it with a car until it does run. The bike runs good once it does but when I leave it off for several hours it does it again, the choker doesn't seem to help much. Any suggestions?
I have a question. I have a AJS dd125. It's a twin cylinder. Carbarated bike. The bike turns on fine and idles fine. When attempting to go for a ride the bike is abit jumpy. go through the gears then when coming upto a junction for a turn. Slow down and obviously come of the throttle the bike just shuts off. I was wondering if the main jet is too big and is running the bike very rich? I can't turn the bike back on until after about 20 minutes. Starts up straight away. Soon as I open the throttle to go for a ride. cuts off again. Would really appreciate the help.
Cody thanks for the great videos you make! I have friend with a 2004 (?) Suzuki SV650 that has an issue whereby it starts fine but once warm starts to stumble. The bike sits for prolonged periods so maybe that indicates the carbs are gummed up but why would it run fine when cold? Seems like that means the idle circuit is fine but main jets might be an issue. He’s having a hard time finding a shop in the Santa Cruz area that will work on carburetors. Thanks again.
Quick question. If my bike starts( kick start, but not with button), does that mean my carburetor is ok? I might have a sht battery so it wont start with button but if bike runs okay with kick start, carboretor ok?
Tell me this, my 750dc shadow has rebuilt carbs new plugs all new gas line floats set etc all things to make a sitting bikes run. She will crank and idle but pop if you give her gas pop pop, i am at a loss and about teady tk take the 12 gauge to it and be done. Any suggestions?
►► Check out my step by step video guides to cleaning carburetors -www.themotorcyclemd.com/pro-carb-cleans
A nifty trick I learned from my dad working at his Oilfield and drilling rig Instrumentation repair shop to clean metals, especially Aluminum and Brass, is to use a container, a coffee tin or plastic 1 gallon ice cream bucket or 5 gallon bucket for larger jobs, of suds-free Ammonia with an aerator/bubbler, I use an aquarium air pump hooked to a short length of copper tubing, with the end pinched, make sure it's suds-free or you'll have a huge bubbly mess. Let your parts "bubble" overnight and you will have a hard time telling new parts from old. The equipment we work on is sometimes 50 years in the field and been chugging away almost everyday of it's life so you can imagine the condition of some of this stuff. I grew up working in his shop and ended up going into automotive, I'm an ASE certified technician for over 15 years now and I've never seen car parts, in their worst condition, even come close to some of this rig equipment and all it takes is an overnight in this to perfectly clean them. It's insane how well it works. I have seasoned mechanics ask what I do to clean my parts, especially carbs, and I never tell, this is the first time I've ever shared this, try it, you won't be disappointed.
Thanks for this tip ill be sure to try it out!
Thanks bro I'll test it out on my bikes carb as its giving me some issues 🤙
Holy shit, I gotta try this. Bubble free. Not sure if I've ever read labels for bubble free though. Huh. Learn something new everyday
I call bs on you not telling anyone because I saw this comment on another post
I tried this, woke up the next morning and someone had stolen my motorcycle. Would not recommend.
I applied this method w my boat that was sitting for 10 years. Started right up. I'll be Replacing the carb and fuel pump, and draining out the old gas.
We have special starter fluid in Australia, it's called "Start ya Bastard" good stuff. #LoveYourWork
@Joline Olivas meowth thats right,
I stumbled across your channel whilst procrastinating at work and must say you are brilliant. You're one of the only TH-camrs that really explains things in full detail.
I have a CBR900RR '99 model. We all know how an inline 4 should sound, and how a V twin sounds. The problem I'm having is that the inline 4 engine is firing like a V twin (in my opinion). I've cleaned the jets out thoroughly, done a compression test, and all i can think that's left is the mixtures/balancing.
Your newer videos regarding balancing and mixture screws have helped me understand what to do and how to do it 10000% better than I knew before, so THANK YOU!
Keep up the amazing work, and I hope to see more videos soon!
+Usual Suspect This is super encouraging to hear, thank you so much for taking the time to let me know the content is helpful! I truly hope to bring more value to your TH-cam experience! Ride safe brother 🤙🤙
I'm having the same issue on a 93 cbr 900rr. Sound like a vtwin and is not firing on #4 cylinder, have cleaned carbs and checked spark and compression with no luck. What did you find to be the problem with yours?
It is currently September 19, 2018. I bought a 2000 suzuki bandit 600. Paid 500 for it. Previous owner said it was a fuel probably. Came home to start and it kept cranking but couldn’t figure out why it wouldn’t start. Then finally it took 4 days to find this video. And holy shit , once that starter fluid hit those carbs! It started!!! I literally thank you! You don’t know how much work you saved me from. Now time to clean those carbs!!! Thank you man!!! 🙌🏽
$500 for bandit 600, you live in heaven man.
Ohh lord, i have been researching this for hours. This is exactly what ive been experiencing! My bike has stood along for 10 years. And finally am I going to get it driving again, ill do a carburator check and clean tmrw. If this works ill be thankful to the greatest, im already am. Thank you for my hopes.
just subscribed in an effort to remedy the suspected dirty carb on my 08 ninja 250...you've got the yt personality that I can appreciate. keep the channel going in its current direction. thumbs up G.
rob stagg'r Thank you for the encouragement brother! 🤙🤙 Glad you dig the content. Looking forward to bringing you more!
Your the best bike mechanic on all of TH-cam man. Thank you
+1, you have a gift Cody!
This video is amazing, worked for me perfectly when i lost all hope, i cannot thank you enough
Thankyou for being the only person on youtube that speaks english
Thank you for this video. Hoping you can help direct me. I have a 2009 Honda VT750C2 with 20,000 miles. I ride nearly every day and have been doing all the maintenance. Recently I've had an issue where the bike won't turn over. Before I followed your tip, I worried I had run out of gas, or the petcock vacuum was stuck, or maybe the carb was sticky or something. I noticed that I had the fuel shut off so I figured I had run the gas in the line out while I was letting it idle on choke to warm up. I bought a vacuum hand pump and confirmed the petcock was working correctly. Then I found your starter fluid tip and that worked great to get my engine started again and the bike has been running fine for a few months. Today, the same thing happened with the starter, but again I have a full tank of gas and I didn't have the fuel shut off this time. The starter fluid into the carb got it started again and it is starting again on its' own, but now I'm wondering if there's a deeper issue I need to look into. How would you diagnose this?
Hey Derek, might be able to help you with this. Just need more Info. Feel free to email me at codyrichards@themotorcyclemd.com
My vmax had one carb that took forever to fire up. My problem was with vboost working on it myself was scary. But I'm sure I could have done it. Finally got to point where it wouldn't fire up at all. 450 bucks later they're all running fine now. Multi carbs are a science to be sure. Hope your channel works out. Good luck.
The first thing most new buyer's want to do is tear the carbs apart before checking all this other stuff, and then they have a long list of possible woes to sort thru before they even know if all else is okay. Great place to start diagnosis.
I'm having trouble getting my 98 cbr600 started, First thing I did was change plugs, it gave it a little extra "umhf" but no start. I'm definitely going to try the starter fluid now
Remember that the starter fluid trick is only used as a diagnostic tool to determine the problem! Not to get it up and running!
Same here I appreciate the info thanks brother we need more honest Machanic’s like you much love from El Paso Texas 🇺🇸🦅
Hi! I appreciate what you explain about using the choke as a tool to diagnose a carburetor problem. Very useful, thank you.
I'm new to bikes and this is very easy to understand. Thanks dude.
Thank you for the vid. Bike sat idle for a year,, got a new battery and it still won't fire. But I'm going to try this and hopefully it will give me somewhere to start
When I used work at a repair place to fixing mowers, strimmers, chainsaws ect. I had a trick to starting engines. I had a trigger spray of petrol or two stroke mix in a trigger spray and would spray directly into the carb intake to see if it would fire.
When I bought my first non running motorcycle, A 2004 Honda Varadero XL125V that had been left stood for over two years with a full tank of E5 petrol, I sprayed fuel into the carb intakes and it started but wouldn't run.
I opened the carbs to find the float bowls dry but had a green coating and the jets were completely blocked.
I didn't have the correct jets to hand so I fitted the next size up and it ran fine.
Ya boi just earned himself a subscription. For real though, it's awesome that people put up all this content. I didn't necessarily need this video but if it helps more people get into bikes, even tangentially, it's awesome. The only bad part is that $500 bikes with dirty carbs will be harder to come by :D
Thanks man!!
This video is going to help me this week... Buying a kz550 that's been sitting for five years lol.
I've watch all your carb related videos and subbed. I don't think I they resolved my issue yet.
I have 1993 suzuki katana gsx600f. Its got a stock air box and stock header. But the pipe is off of a 2004? I'd Imagine its basically the same as stock.
I took down and cleaned all the carb parts last week. I put new fuel in it also found a couple vacuum leaks. All good (so I thought.) after filling up then about 100 miles (last year I was getting closer to 150) I ran out of gas. Ok that's odd but maybe I was running it hard or something. I get it home after filling the tank again. The next morning all my fuel had drained through the carbs into the crank case, cylinders, filter box. I take it all apart again and clean everything. I took extra time to inspect the float valves. Didn't see any issues. Adjusted the floats and double checked it was all clean. Put it all together start it up rode across the street to the gas station fill it up and suddenly starts and barley will idle at WOT... It dies and won't start. Walk it home about 5 min later I have the air box off. It's full again. Taking it apart is getting old. Ordered a complete rebuild kit and dyno jet kit. I put the stage 3 kit in that's supposed to work with the stock box. Now it will idle perfectly fine but it will not throttle up at all. Then it all the sudden decides to red line and stay there till I can get the kill switch turned off. I'm assuming I'm getting too much fuel. I followed all of the instruction on the kit and am completely unsure where to go from here. Do I put the stock jets or the stage 1 kit that came with it
in? With the stock main jets it wouldn't quite idle till it was warm. I know the mains are not supposed to affect idle? So why will it idle with the bigger jets (same idle jets)? Is it related to the idle air screw? Any one have a good place to start?
Hey, thanks for the video, and easing my mind. I was hesitant to try and use starting fluid to see what was up with my 92 FZR600. I know from working on cars too much is a baaaaad thing. Anyways, got my ride started, but having idle issues. At first, when cold, it wanted to always die, feathering the throttle can keep it running, then when warmed up it wanted to race without any additional throttle. Now it doesn't want to idle at all regardless as to how much I turn the idle adjustment screw. I let my son take it in to his high school shop class, the bike had been sitting last 6 years, in the hopes that with supervision he could get the carbs all cleaned up and everything back in running condition. I am not sure how deep he went into the cleaning aspect. I was suspecting a vacuum leak, but with it running I used the starting fluid and hit carb to intake connections, and vacuum lines with no change in the idle so that tells me that part is solid. Now I am not sure where to go. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
This is why I subscribed simple and straight to the point. I only wish i could of found your video sooner before getting rid of my old bike
Great video
I have a problem here in the UK
My wife's xt225 is a pig to start in cold weather
It will start after 5/6 attempts but is frustrating
Will this method be the same with the starter fluid
Keep doing what your doing as you do it well 👍
Great video buddy, compliments!
Hey! thats the same bike I'm working on right now! '68 Honda CB350... just bought a CB360 / 350f disc brake front end for it. So that should arrive soon. It was (and is!) my first road bike, so I don't think I'll ever sell it.. i already have most of my build mapped out.. it's just being able to have enough disposable income every fortnight compared to my paycheque. Shipping from the States to Australia ain't cheap! Oh yeah, it wouldnt run for anything. tried everything. Ended up getting finding an original keyster carb kit in Germany. P:ut that through the carbs , and cleaned everything, and changed the jets to new ones and she fired up pretty much first time and ran like a champ. Gonna put new ignition coils on it soon, as the current ones are looking pretty ratty. Electronic ignition would be nice, but I can't afford that right now.. I love my cafe racer builds!!
Great video brother, got problem with my sportster where it cuts out at idle but only when it's hot/at operating temp.
Same thing on my 93 did you figure out the problem?
Thank you so much for your time on making these videos I've learned so much from you bro, really appreciate it!
Awesome video!
I have an 82 yamaha seca that will not start. New battery, plugs, wires starter rebuild. Almost had something once but just does nothing. It'll turn but no fire. Any suggestions??
Huge thanks to you Cody. saved me a lot of pounds to show my stupidity to some garage ;)
David North 👍👍👏👏
Thanks bro I have a 2006 gsxr and had to do the regulator and stator and you made it easy
As always great video , my 4cyl motorcycle (05 Yamaha royal star ) it will take a long time to rev down and is also using a lot of gas , where should I begin? Check for leaks with starting fluid ? Thanks in advance…
hi man. i'm having problems with my carburator. i guess.
it stalls when i get the revs down. when im going at high revs it goes well as soon as i get it to 2000 rpms it stalls and stops eventually.
to get it going i fiddle with the choke button and then go . what is the problem with my bike ???
mohamed el mtioui What kind of bike is it?
Even this is 7 years old video, issues are still the same, as long carburetors are there in the wild.
I am not mechanic, and basically first mechanical experience I gain with my KLE500 (two cilinder carburetor bike), and I get situation that I cannot solve and I resist to get my bike to service (I want to understand and fix with my own hands :D )
Situation - inside, in garage, its a bit colder than outside. Outside its about 18 degrees and straight sun shine. When inside, I can keep trying with satarter to spin it, nothing happens, maybe some puffs, but not even close to idling motor (last year, I had no issues starting it in any temperature). I take the bike out, put it in straight sunlight, after about 30 minutes sunbath, with little throttle, with full choke - I can get it running, although, still bogs down, I need to hold throttle open. Then RPMs raises, so I can leave throttle alone. After couple of minutes - I can reset down choke. As soon I had a chance to check, both exhaust pipes (right after cylinders) were 330 degrees celsius hot.
First - I changed original stock exhaust to Dominator. After I started to get these issues, I screwed up the idle knob - it came out and I was not able to put it back. I removed carb, put the screw back in, then I was not able to get bike running inside in garage. I took out carb once more, checked pilot jet, cleaned it (with break cleaner, I didn't have carb cleaner), it didn't look clogged even before, float tray didn't have any rust or debris.
I am not sure, what is exactly wrong with my bike - why it is not starting cold?
Good shit bro. I'm an L1 Master tech in automotive n i recently had the $$ to finally get into bikes as much as i always wanted to so mechanically/electrically im already inclined but to know each component and different adjustments/tips/tricks u name it, i want to learn it. So even a very inexpensive & simple solution as this is great. Make some videos on idle adjust screws, maintenance, brakes, carb cleaning/rebuilding/symptoms & hell even an engine tear down if u have a scrap motor, and i'd def suscribe n spread the word. Take it easy keep it up
+QuickCarCare heck yea man! So are you saying my videos are not worthy of your subscription yet? 😂
Hey man if I email you send a vid of my bike, will you help me out on what is the problem? Back story, bike is been sitting for 3 years, got a new battery, put a gallon of 93 and it turns over but doesn’t fully run. Might be the carb?
i determined i was out of gas, my trip was set to 0 last time i got gas, and it was 89 miles ago, i thought for sure i could've gone to 150miles on a tank of gas. Honda shadow 750 ace
Usually a stuck needle from today's ethanol fuels. I cringe at the thought of using starting fluid (ether) to achieve a fast revving startup after sitting for too long. I pull the plug, and spray in some WD-40 while slowly turning the engine over to work it into the rings and cylinder walls. Now, I wouldn't cringe at introducing ether for a short diagnostic blip. Just don't keep spraying it!
That's great and all and it worked for me but what happens if you take apart the carbs clean it End and it doesn't even start with starter fluid anymore like it did in the beginning If starter Fluid worked But didn't after the cleaning?
hello,
I am having an issue with my 82 Honda v45 magna. I removed the carbs and cleaned the bowls and Jets because I couldn't get the bike to run without the Choke. I finally got all the Jets clean and reinstalled the carb onto the bike. Now my issue when the bike is idling without the choke on and I try to blip the throttle it dies. I'm stuck on what to do next
Did you soak the carbs in any solution? Just because the jets and bolts are clean it doesn't mean that the all internal tunnels, ports,and transfer circuits are clogged up. You probably don't want to hear this but I would recommend taking the carbs back out and really diving in. Often times peoples idea of "I cleaned the carbs already" is far from what that actually requires to be true.
andrrewa17 l
Hey , not sure if you can help me out but I bought an older chinese kids atv and it wont start without starter fluid . But when sprayed into the carb it runs fine and will restart when warmed up no problem . It idles kind of lumpy and burns a lot of blackish smoke . Everyone says it's running quite rich . When I adjust the air fuel mixture screw it basically does nothing until it's all the way in. That's when it just dies . I can basically turn the screw all the way out and it doesn't seem to make a difference . The idle screw seems to work fine in increasing and decreasing the idle but the off mixture makes it idle rough regardless. Any advice or opinion on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
Love your videos . Thanks
Love your vids brother. This reminded me of my issue im having kind of. Im battling the issue of bike will start and idle on and off choke perfectly, but the moment I give throttle, it wants to die as if the main jet were clogged but its not. Although if I spray a couple squirts I can rev it to normal rpm. I'm so confused cause I triple checked the carbs and jets and diaphragms and needles and all and it'll only rev to normal rpms if I spray it while running.
Got a question for you to figure out. 92 ninja 600r. Been running really good. Took it on a bike run saturday. Over 100 miles. Ran great. Sunday went out to a friends house. Ran great. After a couple of hours, when i start it to leave, skipping and stuttering like crazy. In neutral it clears up, 1st gear, spitting and sputtering, and the tach is jumping up and down. Ride it home, it continues. With more throttle it clears up. Does it really bad in 1st and 2nd. Carbs have been cleaned twice in 2 months. 2nd fuel filter installed weeks ago. I'm at a loss. Any help please???
Sounds like the stator could be going bad. Long rides like that are hard on stators they get heat soaked. When you said the tach needle was jumping all around that was a tell. They typically do that under low voltage.
I have a 1980 Honda CM400E. Lately when running in Neutral or 1st(don't know beyond those gears), it keeps dying if not applying throttle. Sometimes it dies when initially applying a small amount of throttle. It dies again and again, and then drips gas heavily at the bottom of the bike. It appears to drip from a bolt down below. Do you have any ideas for what this might be? Thanks. I live in Cherry Valley, Ill., and I am looking for a decent mechanic. Thanks.
Cody, great stuff. Are you able to do a vid on a 2000 Intruder 1400? The reason I ask is that for the novice, (me), I struggled with a seemingly simple compression test. But it went out of bounds due to the unknown de compression valves, and that they were out of sync. Plus one was running 25% open all the time. I had bizarre psi's. But after a long struggle I understood this and adjusted both to fully open, ( which solved for some a starting problem, like a dead battery). So if you have time. Appreciated.
I have an old trail bike, and it was running till I dumped too much marvel mystery oil in the intake. I've checked to make sure the carb is working, and it does, I can get the engine to run by dumping gas into the cylinder, but it just takes off once it starts. If I let it, it will probably rev until detonation. Does have a suicide throttle thing going on but I can see that the throttle is completely closed. What do you think is going on?
The last dirty carb I successfully cleaned was burning rich, with black plugs (both plugs in a V twin) and blue smoke out the exhaust. I did a little head scratching on that one. Why would a dirty carb lead to rich combustion?
Great Video cant wait to try this on my HellKatt!!!
Hello mate just quick question have you ever use Seafoam for cleaning carbs or any other chemical substance and what is your personal opinion or experience, you are big help and love all your videos cheers
Hi. Great video..if i have spark and am spraying some starter fluid straight into carbs with no luck what could the problem be??thanks
Simple to the point thanks ,not like classic octane .toooooo much talking wanna be. Helped my GS 850 G .Good show thanks from South Africa
perfect presentation. strait to the point. well done. liked and subbed.
Hey Cody, quick question. Have an XJ650 1982 Yamaha. Started my motor without the pod filters, used the hand cover technique. It started fine and idled fine. Then I put on my K&N pods, now it's having trouble to start. What's the cause?
Bought a gs650e. To save a backstory, could the bike still function with all stock jets, but with an emulsion tube and the jet needle for an 850? I'm having a lot of trouble with the idle and determining whether it's too rich or lean.
I have a 94 intruder 1400. Just got it. Runs weak. Front cylinder plug was fouled when I got it(black wet with gas). Bike sat over winter before I bought it. Replaced both plugs. Still runs weak. Is driveable but I have to really twist the throttle to get it where it should go much easier. Linkage to both carbs is intact. Bike feels like a giant ninja 250. Pipes are gold I'm told that means running lean. Checked new plugs after 2 mile ride on highway. Front cylinder plug barely ashy. Brownish creamy white not full white. Both factory plugs are still over both AF screws so I know the mixture is set to factory. My initial thought is pull and clean carbs but I'm not sure I can sync them with what I have in my shop. Any thoughts on a direction to take?
I have a 1981 gs450 that I am putting together. The bike was sold to me without carbs. I bought a set off ebay, cleaned them, and put everything back together. I had to re wire the bike, so I was concerned about the ignition, but I was getting nice fat spark. Compression was good. After got everything back on, I couldnt get any thing only get a crank no start. Tried to diagnose the problem with the starter fluid, even then got nothing but cranking. Any ideas where I should go next?
Ive got a two stroke. Ive always been told that start fluid is not recommended for two strokes?
First time owner of a 1974 cb360. I have backfiring and my bike dies when I’m coming to a stop after riding. Seems like I have too lean of a mixture. 😊
I've rebuilt my carbs on my 98 750 Shadow, didn't mess with syncing. Now I have a high idle and very poor response. Suggestions please. Thanks
great video, how do you do this with a kick start?
Do you guys know if there is any carburator Kits for rebuild our carbs? TIA!
rocking this in 2021!
Hey Bro, Great advice...worked like a charm. I was getting ready to pull the carb apart!
Got an 86 Honda goldwing GL1200 ASPENCADE. Doesn't like to idle without choke and will stall if accelerated. Can spray starter fluid and revs up. Suggestions?
Great video love it. Question i have a dirtbike Lifan 125 engine, kicks right up idles fine, when i go through the gears it severely lacks power, backfires excessively on deceleration, and makes spitting noises when throttling. Put new plug in old one had alot of soot, exhaust has alol of soot in the front and back. I think its running too rich or the float is messed up, i can almost tighten the screw on the carb down to barely nothing and it will still run. but i feel it maybe more than that. It'll start with choke closed almost first kick and sprays fuel out with the air filter out when kicking it. any ideas?
At first thought it almost sounded like the cam timing or ignition timing is out. Regardless, it is definitely WAY too rich. Either the main jet dropped out in the bowl, float issue, blockage in the intake (air filter area), main jet needle clip is wrong position ect. If I where you I would buy you a brand new carb to replace that one. Those Chinese/Taiwan made motors are cheap. I bet you could find a carb for it for 50$ shipped to your door. Save the headache and start fresh.
thanks for the reply, ended up figuring out last week it was the timing. the flywheel was not attached properly. Still running rich though so looking to get a new carb. Thanks for the advice !
It could also be a restricted fuel feed line right? Not the carb?
Hello, I own a Dr250s that I have bought. The bike itself isn't running the best, It doesn't idle at a constant level, and It has a major delay on the throttle while in motion. The delay isn't there or at least not noticeable while in neutral. To my knowledge, it has been ridden alot over the past 6 years with out much service... What could this be? and could i do it myself or should i take it into a shop?
+Ethan Honestly brother might be a good idea to get a professional to check it out with the amount of hours put on that. I would hate for you to spend more time combing through non-issues to figure out what's going on. May be time for a good valve job and a solid diagnosis from a trusted tech.
Sweet. I was thinking that that would be a good idea. Just a bit pricy is all
Hi bro. I got a '94 Kawi. Cleaned carb, did valve clearences (maybe a little loose), new battery, adjusted float, is now starting and idling finally... but when i give throttle, it either bogs, or revvs very high and hangs there.
I got one leak between the carb and the filter, air side. Can that be the problem? Mixture screw 2.5 turns, i dunno man
Just got a engine rebuild an after 15mins of driving the bike cut out an won't start it's lost a bit of compression? Was a bit tight after rebuilding! There's a sound coming from where the piston is an it's sounds like air or a big pump or something ? Any idea what this is ? Maybe my carb
I got a question, bike runs smooth idles good besides one cylinder, the cylinder has spark, the cylinder will run with the other three if I spray starting fluid, and when I drain the bowl it has fuel in the bowl, what would cause it to not get fuel if there is fuel in the bowl. There is a hole in the diaphram of the slide I know that. Could the leaky diaphram cause it not get fuel at all even at idle?
Should the engine stay running if I continue to hit it with starting fluid? I have a CN250 that starts on starter fluid and dies in seconds even when continuing to feed starter fluid
hi man. i'm having problems with my carburator. i guess.
it stalls when i get the revs down. when im going at high revs it goes well as soon as i get it to 2000 rpms it stalls and stops eventually.
to get it going i fiddle with the choke button .
mohamed el mtioui Hey man! What kind of bike is it first off?
lifeisawar zone what leak though?
I have an old kz650 with mikuni CV carbs and it only runs when I spray starting g fluid into the carbs it'll rev up high then die, and I too lean? Or possibly a clogged jet?
Very good video helpfull and simple.. good job dude thanks. Looking forward to more videos
what's the BEST cleaner in your opinion to SOAK the carbs in ??? all i can find is water based garbage, and we all know that doesn't work. any idea would help THANKS in ADVANCE.
Hey man I have a ninja 250 that was sitting for about 2 years at first it would shut off on idle when giving it gas. The carbs were cleaned as well as dumping the bad gas and now it runs and doesn’t die however there is some power loss I have to twist the throttle all the way down which is unusual. The bike just feels different. Do you think changing the spark plugs can fix my bike?
Hey I have a cb50 1970 my carburetor is leaking and we can’t figure out what is going on. And after a week of leaving it alone now the fuel switch Isn’t sending fuel into the carburetor. Any suggestions?
I have a CB350 that I got a few months ago. It runs rough. Carbs are clean, valves are adjusted and everything. It stutters in idle and mid range, can't get it to idle at below 1100 without it cutting out. How do I tell if it's too lean or too rich? Also, how do I go about tuning the carbs and syncing them?
Hey I just purchased an old KZ440 and I'm getting a miss at 1500 rpm's. The guy I got it from said it may be the boots or diaphragm. He suspected there might be pin holes in the diaphragm. Does that sound plausible to you? The miss will cause it to die if I don't give it more gas. Anyone got any idea's I would surely appreciate them.
Hey K, check out my comment! Sorry I didn't hit the "reply" box on your message!
my 650 vstar spits and sputters and shotgun backfires on deceleration, stock exhaust, clean jets , new plugs. any suggests?
I cleaned my carburetor on my scooter, but when I rev, the idle revs down slowly or hangs up. I already checked for leaks and it doesnt have any. What do you think is the problem?
Very useful info but I habe a question, I have a 1982 honda cb650sc, clean, coated tank, rebuilt pet cock, and carbs with a brand new ignition system. When I go to start it on full choke or without the choke it will begin to run then die before I even release the starter button. I'm wondering if this is an issue with the jets or possibly a timing issue?
I would check compression, and spark on each cylinder for sure
TheMotorcycleMD it has good compression and spark because it will run on starting fluid.
Hey was seeing if you could help with adjustments of the throttle cable from the carb? My throttle adjustment is maxed out on my bars and my throttle still sticks when I turn the bars to the right and it's super sensitive in all other positions of the bars. Thanks for the videos keep them up!! I have a 83 Honda nighthawk 650.
Hey Brian, I'll try my best! Are you still using the the stock handlebars,cables, and or risers? How confident are you that the cable routing is correct?
TheMotorcycleMD yes everything is stock. Im pretty confident because I can get it adjusted pretty good except when I turn the bars to the right the cable has way to much tension on it and sticks. Is there something else it could be? Does adjusting the throttle cable at the carbs loosen the cable or it if a different adjustment altogether?
Thanks!!
Bryan Stocklas Hey, head over over to motorcycleMD.com so I can get your email. It will be easier to respond.
TheMotorcycleMD I sent you a message on motorcyclemd.com thanks again
Hi Cody! Thanks for the great vid! i have a 78 cb400t. I think it's the same as the hawkii. im running the carbs of a 79 cm400. stock 78 cb jetting is 75/110. stock 79cm is 70/112. the common belief is of course performance can be improved b/c factory shit is too lean. i stuck the 75 in there, so im running 79cm carbs primary up from 70 to 75, and 112 secondary. When i cold start it, it starts out good then roars way up to high rpm (dead tach). choke doesnt do anything when thats going on, i tried winding in the idle screws to 1/2 a turn out each and that made no difference either. I could just put the old jets back in, but id rather understand wtf i did here. why are my primaries causing high idle? 1 carb was leaking, so i fucked around with the float to raise the needle a little. cant see that doing it either,but obviously im missing something!!
Thanks bruh!!
So i have a 81 cb650c ive cleaned tje carbs and put it all back together. When it starts it iddlesas at about 2k and then after warming up it goes to 5k and bounces around alittle. Ive disconeted the throttle cables the choke is not on have the pilot screws at 2 1/8 turns from being set and idle screw not even touching the idler. Ive bench synced it and I have no vaccum leaks that i can detect and all the jets seem to be not clogged. Im unsure where to go from here.
Hey! I would have one question: I have adjusted the float level on my carburetor, and replaced the float needles. Now after the winter the bike will not start. I am wondering whether it is due to the earlier modifications - I even tried a bit of starting fluid but it did not start. Does that mean it is something else than the carbs or can it still be the carbs but they are way too rich?
Does the carburetor affect the speed ? Because my 150cc feels like i can't go over 60km/h
How much does it cost to clean the fuel system after a bike been sitting down
I should have watched this a month ago haha thanks mate!
hi Buddy, I own a Skyjet sj125-26 (Chinese bike was all I could get with my budget) and I had to change the carb because it was losing top end power. and now I have changed the carb to a brand new one the bike is maxing out on revs. I have checked for air leaks and also the throttle is working the way it should but no matter what I try or have looked at I still can't get to the problem. do you have any suggestions please?
David North Interesting, what do you mean that it is maxing out of revs? Do you have any throttle free play? Have you tried adjusting the idle down?
The Motorcycle MD I have tries the idol screw and it has no effect I can pull the throttle and no difference in revs. by maxed out revs I mean its like I have the bike of full throttle and it increases when I take the choke off
David North head over to motorcyclemd.com/what-i-can-help-you-with/
and send me a message through the form at the bottom of the page. I would like for you to send me one or two pictures to see what kind of carb your working with.
it's the ecu or eci it's restricted
2 subscribers club its carb’d so no ecu needed
Why would my 95 Yamaha virago 535 all of a sudden no power at high throttle. It starts and revs but just all of a sudden after not driving most winter it started doing this and backfiring. And why would my pilot screws have to be all the way in to get a good air fuel mixture using Gunson Colortune??? Should I check if my fuel pump is pumping enough. I did clean out my gas tank 6 months ago and might of had some water in it still idk. It was at least running good. Help please!!
Hi ya great video...i have an issue with my bike I feel it may be carb related...the only thing is it happens sometimes not all the time..i am getting bogging in power low down in the revs then as I drop off the accelerator to compensate it takes off...any ideas...as I said though doesn't happen every time.
Cheers.
Same thing happening with my bike
James Plumb have you found any solution
G
I recently bought a 03 ninja 500 with low miles, battery is new, the choker cable is moving, the guy said the carburetors were recently cleaned. Normally it should turn over even on cold weather. I keep cranking the bike until the battery dies with no luck and eventually I resort to jumping it with a car until it does run. The bike runs good once it does but when I leave it off for several hours it does it again, the choker doesn't seem to help much. Any suggestions?
I have a question. I have a AJS dd125. It's a twin cylinder. Carbarated bike. The bike turns on fine and idles fine. When attempting to go for a ride the bike is abit jumpy. go through the gears then when coming upto a junction for a turn. Slow down and obviously come of the throttle the bike just shuts off. I was wondering if the main jet is too big and is running the bike very rich? I can't turn the bike back on until after about 20 minutes. Starts up straight away. Soon as I open the throttle to go for a ride. cuts off again.
Would really appreciate the help.
Cody thanks for the great videos you make!
I have friend with a 2004 (?) Suzuki SV650 that has an issue whereby it starts fine but once warm starts to stumble. The bike sits for prolonged periods so maybe that indicates the carbs are gummed up but why would it run fine when cold? Seems like that means the idle circuit is fine but main jets might be an issue. He’s having a hard time finding a shop in the Santa Cruz area that will work on carburetors.
Thanks again.
2004 sv 650 is fuel injected
Quick question. If my bike starts( kick start, but not with button), does that mean my carburetor is ok? I might have a sht battery so it wont start with button but if bike runs okay with kick start, carboretor ok?
Why would gas be in the diaphragm area where you take the cover off?? Thanks 👍
Tell me this, my 750dc shadow has rebuilt carbs new plugs all new gas line floats set etc all things to make a sitting bikes run. She will crank and idle but pop if you give her gas pop pop, i am at a loss and about teady tk take the 12 gauge to it and be done. Any suggestions?