OK I posted earlie about trying to use it on a base/clear paint job that I sprayed a couple of months ago so I guess it will not be the solution I was hoping for to correct a error in the paint that I made.
@Brandon Johnson Yeah with the PPG one I use the TDS has you wait for it to flash then apply. That has worked great for me and like you said helps avoid runs when the clear is still flashing and leveling.
Try it on black or red when you get a chance then look at in a few months. It will shrinck back a bit. White is hard to see. U-pol has good stuff. Thanks for this, more DIYrs need to know.
Been using this a few times. It truly works. I've even seen guys use it on headlights to remove hazing. It's like a miracle spray, only if it made hair grow back.😂
It does work well for sure. If you use it right after the last coat it works nicely but I had to wait as I was talking and making a video - didn't want to breath the fumes :)
That UPOL Blend #9 is great for making fogged-over headlights crystal clear again. Just clean them with alcohol, mask your paint off, and spray a good even coat of U-POL Blend #9 on them and they'll be crystal clear. No sanding or buffing is needed, just clean them good with alcohol for best results.
@@LakesideAutobody You're welcome. It's so easy and works so well that I'm surprised more people haven't made TH-cam videos showing how good it works. It's really easy and really fast to do.
Hey I used that UPOL blend #9 on the sail panel of my 1970 Charger RT as I did some body repair and then blend job on the upper sail panel of the car. It worked out really nice! Thanks!
It will work with both single stage colors or clear. In the old days we would use thinner or reducer to do the same thing. I think this stuff is very close to being the same... maybe a bit stronger to melt into the cured OEM paint or old paint.
Thanks for a short and sweet video. I have a hood I need to do until I can do the whole car. So this is after paint and a scuff and buff to blend the clears? Is it where the two clears overlaps you melt in. So Paint, clear, scuff, melt and buff?
Not exactly, you scuff the blend in area, then apply your base colour, then the clear lacquer, when you've sprayed the final coat of lacquer you then spray the U-POL blend straight away, if you let the lacquer dry before applying the U-POL it won't work, it's good stuff but you need to be careful or it might run the lacquer.
Quest, was that initially only paint or clear coated paint? Is it ok to use upol and polish paint only application in touch up to reduce edge? Should paint be coated with clear first?
You can use it on color like single stage paint or with clear coat. It will melt the dry edge of any compatible paint. If not sure if it's compatible try a practice area first :)
The pros always talk about using blender. I just have trouble trusting anything UPOL, only if there's no other option; which may be the case. Albeit this is from my limited upol experience, may be just 1k in general I'm done with; this isnt even paint so i guess.. but even the name is annoying to me- UPOL 🤔 Thanks for the demonstration Jerry. I guess when a cleaner appearence is needed. It did seem to work, but i dont buff - F that.. on my 20 footer side jobs I just run 2 or 3 soft tape lines on top each other. After each coat i pull one so the clear thickness steps down. It's good from 5 -10 feet. A slight hand buff is good enough to knock down the edge. If its sanded well with 2k clear it seems to hold well. At least 3 years so farm
What ever you are happy with, I've been using U-POL products for years as well as other brands and I can't fault them, however single stage products no matter what brand can be trouble sometimes
I'm pretty sure this is just for urethane. If you melt in lacquer, it was very common to just thin the paint a lot. Same for enamel really - you could just reduce the paint or clear but this is much more convenient with a nice gentle spray :)
Give the spray max blender a try it’s the best stuff I’ve used. Been painting a lot never failed me. Doesn’t spit or create more problems just works like it shoulf
@@LakesideAutobody sweet. I think you will love it. It works great with your sealer edge too. Just kill the edge with it after your done spraying sealer then when you go to tack off the sealer/ panel you will get a really smooth transition.
Hey Jerry, great video. Does that only work on base/clear or does it work on single stage? I take it, if its single stage, just paint the whole panel? Have a great weekend
I need to do a paint repair on some black base/clear job that I did on my 68 GT500KR that I sprayed a couple of months ago that is in the middle of a panel. I will be very interested to find out if that UPOL blend works for something like that.
@@LakesideAutobody I have not repaired this yet. I just left it as is for now as it really is not that noticeable at all. But I did use the UPOL #9 as stated in my comment above.
Great videos!!. How would you blend paint and clear up to a body style line? I guess the question is: how do you end base and clear at the body style line and then wet sand? Wouldn't there be a suttle line as the paint and clear end at the same point?
It is usually not done because of exactly what you are talking about but here's a video or "hack" in which it was done successfully. It depends on where you do it, the color, etc. The biggest problem is matching not the line as you can sand and buff - th-cam.com/video/3yHl5R7yfwk/w-d-xo.html
Are you blending the base coat, or clear coat? Would it help with “spray can touch up with built in clear coat”. I saw one video where they sprayed the blend BEFORE the color?
I'm melting in the dry edge or blending the new clear coat into the old. You can use it many different ways like you saw in the vid. Very often painters will pour some clear in the color - very common in the 70's 80's 90's :)
??? I rubbed through a couple of spots taking out the runs with a blade then cutting and buffing. Single stage urethane , is there any hope of maybe air brushing these spots then cut and buff again. Thanks love your tips and have used many. Chuck
You could try it then hit it with a light shot of this to melt the edges, lightly wet sand and buff. Also, if it's a solid color you'll have a better chance than with metallic paint. It will be challenging though. If you try it let me know how it goes for you 😊
In 1979 , When we All Passed The Barriers Of Lacquer To Polyurethane, That Was One Of My Questions To The DuPont Technician. He Don’t have the Answer at The Moment. I Gave Him My Home Phone Number. And He Called Me. And explain Me, How To Prepare The Area, cleaning With Rubbing Compound by Hand and a Rag. Then Spray a Thin Coat of 222S Adhesion Promoter, (to prevent peeling) . After spray the Clear Coat. Add To The residual bottom of the cup Clear Blender, And Spray Very Thin . The Shine Was even. And don’t need Wet Sand after dry To Buff. Those Sprays tend to Peel. Because are Slightly Activated Blenders, Without enough Adhesion. For a Lasting Job, And A Permanent Customer I Personally Use The Old System.
All I saw was buffing??? Where did you spray anything on? What did it look like prior?? Why did you choose this blend UPOL #9 over any waxing product for melting in? Is it because melting in needs a bonding for pulled paint fines allowing to fill in spaces? I mean I guess I'm in the right direction. How do I know I need it? Can it work with chipped/degraded clear coat?
It's used right after you spray the last coat of color or clear to melt in the dry area. Old days you used thinner or reducer or really thin paint/clear. I did it when the room cleared of fumes 'cause I didn't want to breath them. Just a quick shot and it melts the blend - then buff when it's all dry :)
I have a fresh paint job about a week old that I nicked the box while putting the cap back on I lightly sanded the bad area and was wondering if I could use a slow reducer as a blending agent or should I get a blending agent
The nice thing about blending agents is the way it sprays out - nice and atomized. You can get similar results with reducer as that's what was used for quite some time or at least guys tried to use it for that purpose. Myself, I'd go with the blending agent like this one - seems to melt in a bit easier :)
You can use it on clear or SS. This was used after the clear but I waited till the fumes exited the garage. It's best to do it right after the last coat of paint or clear 👍😊🎄
Yes - just a folded sheet of 1000 grit. Here's a good video on wet sanding and buffing - how all body shops did it in the 70's, 80's, 90's. They didn't have the flat rubber blocks yet back then - just tri folded 1/2 sheets of 8.5x11 sand paper and your bare hand :)
Hello Jerry. Do you know if this could work for blending single stage acrylic? I need to paint a fender and blend into the front door and bumper. Thanks 👍
I haven't done large panels with this product. I think if it is a non metallic you might have good results. Myself, I would go with the conventional method like this - th-cam.com/video/-GHKaJS7RS0/w-d-xo.html
It can certainly be used with single stage. In the old days we would thin the paint or clear way way down and blend with that. Sometimes it worked great - sometimes not :)
I have a question about touch up on a paint job that is a month old on the wheel well lip on my 2013 ram already needs to be touched up it's only on the lip below the bodyline can I get some pointers on how to repair and how much I will have to spray
That's the way you are supposed to use it but I had to let the fumes escape first before doing this video. It was about 15 minutes after the last coat but it still worked well :)
what other meguairs product could one use in place of Diamond Cut 2.0. I have their Gold Class Clear Coat Prep and their Polishing Compound. Any suggestions welcome..Thx
You can use any compound really. I just use the diamond cut because it's somewhat coarse. If your compound isn't working then try another. Polishing compound might be too fine but worth a try :)
@@LakesideAutobody I just tried the polishing compound on a small area under the rear bumper cover...you were right...did not help much. Thx for your help
I don't think you that would work but not totally sure. I've never had much luck putting lacquer over any type of paint other than another lacquer. The old rule of thumb was - you can spray enamel over lacquer but not lacquer over enamel. Maybe try it on a practice panel. If you do find success - let me know :)
I know you’re making a video and you’re an excellent Bodyman, but in order for spot blender to work properly from my experience as soon as you’re done laying down the clear, your head all the edges with the spot Blender you post a good brand, but I prefer iMac sort of 2K brands that’s just for my experience has a mobile Bodyman doing stuff on the street
Thanks for your input Chris. I'm not big on hanging around in the fumes so I waited. Once the fumes were gone, I did this video. I'll give it a try like you suggest - have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks. I’m going to give it a shot. The repair is on the roof. The car is white and it’s very hard to notice it unless the car is parked in the shade and if you look at it from an angle but it bothers my conscience lol
I have not. However, I do think it would work well if it was used right after the last coat SS or BC/CC. Probably would have to lightly wet sand and buff though. I'll try to get a video out on that :)
I've had great results with clear blenders but most are best applied before the clear dries. People say that the blenders don't have the UV inhibitors that clear does and on horizontal surfaces that eventually UV from the sun will eat away the blender so they're best used on vertical surfaces they get less UV. I personally can not attest to the veracity of that claim but it's what I've heard.
You might be able to see a foggy line or transition. This helps to "melt" everything together. You can use over thinned or over reduced clear to do the same thing but this I think works a bit better. Should be done right after the last coat of clear but I had to talk so I waited till the fumes were gone :)
You can do right after or wait a bit. I waited 'cause I don't like to be messing around while the fumes are still in the garage. I waited about an hour. Here's the instructions - APPLICATION: Shake the aerosol can for at least 2 minutes before use. Sand blend area with sanding soap or 800 - 1200 grit sandpaper to prepare blend area. Holding the aerosol approximately 10" from the panel, apply a light mist coat over the bled area of the freshly applied clearcoat or topcoat. Apply 2-3 light coats of BLEND#9 immediately after clearcoat is applied to blend edge. Follow the clearcoat or topcoat manufacturers instructions for flash off and drying.
@@LakesideAutobody I don't understand,in instruction first said sand blend area(which means the clear coat should be dry)but below said to spray upol 9 immediately after clear coat. I'm confused?? Please explain Thanks
Once again good old white used to showcase a technique. Seems extremely common in videos made to impress. Not that you are trying to impress in this video but i go to Paint shows and the demos always seem to be on white cars.
Recently used it on a 2016 Ford Focus (videos coming up) - worked well on the quarter posts as well - actually surprises me how well this stuff works. Some folks have good luck with very reduced clear coat to so... If you do it right after the clear is sprayed it works real nice.
You can but some compounds can cause fish eyes so maybe do a practice run first. Might want to wipe it down w/ wax and grease remover too before the clear :)
Works better if you do it while the paint or clearcoat is still wet I’ve done properly buffing is not needed. That’s what the product is for in the first place. If you still have to buff what is the purpose of this product I use it all the time and if you know what you’re doing, you don’t have to buff.
Best results with this blender polish the area past the blend zone spray your clear right after have that blender ready hit until clear fade area is clear here is a Tip dry the blender with your spray gun low air !
@@LakesideAutobody I got my bumper painted ford focus mk3 titanium x diesel and its totally different from the car 🚗 I have now a match and my mate said the front wings or fenders in the us 🇺🇸 😉 have to be blended
Good question. Because sometimes, especially with colors when you wet sand that dry line or overspray line, it will show or it can still be seen after buffing. I can't really explain what it looks like but you can see it. It's all smooth and shiny but you can see the blend - just looks maybe a bit foggy or has a different looking texture. The UPOL "melts" that dry overspray in and eliminates the dry texture that causes the problem :)
No. If you sand the area without melting it in, youll just sand away the new clear. Youll basically just keep moving back the line of where the new clear meets the old clear. I learned this the hard way the first time i tried it
My neigbour/neighbor has scratched my car all over (horrible paranoid old man who has claimed ownership of the parking on the public road). My local paintshop has quoted me €3,000 (approx $3,400) to compound out the scratches and then put a coat of paint and lacquer on the trunk door, four doors and hood and fenders (It's a Nissan X-Trail, little bit smaller that a Nissan Rogue). Basically all the car all around. No roof included. How does this compare with prices in the US elsewhere? Just interested to know. Thanks all.
Yes - absolutely. That would probably be very close to around here - Michigan. My friend just paid $4800 to have a dent fixed from a piece of truck tire that he ran over hitting the passenger side door and another panel (both panels could easily be fixed - not that bad) - So two panels bumped and painted = 4800 🥴
Looks like it’s just thinners in an aerosol can. I don’t see how it’s any better than the way it’s been done with thinners in a gun for the last 35+ years. Probably good for a DIY backyarder but useless for professionals.
The stuff works well on all colors. We used to do that same thing with thinned paint or clear sometimes even reducer or thinner depending on what you were spraying. Guys tried all kinds of stuff to get the same result as this product :)
Yep.... I had to talk for the video - didn't want to breath the fumes. Supposed to be done after last coat. Most folks I think realize that though - says it on the instructions too :)
So...instead of the old way (lightly wet sand and buff), this method has you buy this crap, mask the area off, spray this, let dry, then lightly wet sand and buff? Sounds like a plan.
Well. the old way was to use very reduced paint or clear which means you have to mix it, stay in the fumes, etc. This you can just grab and go. I like it and have leaned that if you use it right after the last coat of clear it works great. Good, easy to use product actually :)
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That blender looks like it works really well. Amazing results out of a spray can. Have a great weekend Jerry
Thanks Greg - you have a good weekend too my friend - thanks for checking it out :)
These blending thinners need to be used immediately after the clear is sprayed to work well, but they can cause runs if you are not careful.
OK I posted earlie about trying to use it on a base/clear paint job that I sprayed a couple of months ago so I guess it will not be the solution I was hoping for to correct a error in the paint that I made.
@@VegasRT500 to the hospital uiiiihihh
@Brandon Johnson Yeah with the PPG one I use the TDS has you wait for it to flash then apply. That has worked great for me and like you said helps avoid runs when the clear is still flashing and leveling.
Probably best to follow the TDS for whatever product one is using.
I’m glad I saw this… now I see its use and limitations…THX!
Surprising result from an aerosol can . Thanks for sharing this tip using the UPOL Blend.
You're welcome and thanks for watching RG - have a good weekend 🛠🏈
Nice job on the pillar. As for a repair in the middle of a panel, I guess I'd blend the base coat and clear the entire panel.
Me to just a lil extra sanding and taping is worth it not peeling back one day
Try it on black or red when you get a chance then look at in a few months. It will shrinck back a bit. White is hard to see. U-pol has good stuff. Thanks for this, more DIYrs need to know.
You're welcome Bill - have a good weekend 🏈🛠😊
You're welcome Bill - have a good weekend 🏈🛠😊
It don't get any better than that!! Well done Bud!!☻
Thanks RK - have a good weekend :)
Great video Jerry! I had never heard of "melting in". Turned out great of course .
Thanks PSG - we'll see how it works on different colors and situations :)
Been using this a few times. It truly works. I've even seen guys use it on headlights to remove hazing. It's like a miracle spray, only if it made hair grow back.😂
It does work well for sure. If you use it right after the last coat it works nicely but I had to wait as I was talking and making a video - didn't want to breath the fumes :)
That UPOL Blend #9 is great for making fogged-over headlights crystal clear again. Just clean them with alcohol, mask your paint off, and spray a good even coat of U-POL Blend #9 on them and they'll be crystal clear. No sanding or buffing is needed, just clean them good with alcohol for best results.
Wow... that's great info - I'll give it a try. Thanks for that Calvin :)
@@LakesideAutobody You're welcome. It's so easy and works so well that I'm surprised more people haven't made TH-cam videos showing how good it works. It's really easy and really fast to do.
@@calvinh.8882 I used it on this vehicle too and it worked perfect on the rear posts - th-cam.com/video/MNpmqk18cd4/w-d-xo.html
For this application, looks like it works.
Hey I used that UPOL blend #9 on the sail panel of my 1970 Charger RT as I did some body repair and then blend job on the upper sail panel of the car. It worked out really nice! Thanks!
You're welcome Vegas - glad to hear it worked for you. It hasn't failed yet so... pretty good product :)
Nice work Jerry, I haven’t tried to melt in this way but after watching you I’ll have to give it a try!
I'm glad I kept my mouth shut when you first painted the car! 😂
Have a great weekend Jerry
I knew someone was thinking about those spots - good thinking Jim 😊 Have a good weekend 🏈
Keep up the good work
Cool product! Thanks Jerry! We are learning something every video! I never heard of such a product before.
Thanks for the support Uncle Mark - hope everything is going well up there 👍😊
@@LakesideAutobody All good. Just doing the same old stuff. Hope your staying as busy as you want to be!
@@unclemarksdiyauto Good to hear. Thanks for always checking out the vids Mark - much appreciated :)
Great Demo....Thanks!
Do you think this would work with single stage, or is this only for clearcoat? Thanks, Jerry!👍
It will work with both single stage colors or clear. In the old days we would use thinner or reducer to do the same thing. I think this stuff is very close to being the same... maybe a bit stronger to melt into the cured OEM paint or old paint.
Thanks for a short and sweet video. I have a hood I need to do until I can do the whole car. So this is after paint and a scuff and buff to blend the clears? Is it where the two clears overlaps you melt in. So Paint, clear, scuff, melt and buff?
Not exactly, you scuff the blend in area, then apply your base colour, then the clear lacquer, when you've sprayed the final coat of lacquer you then spray the U-POL blend straight away, if you let the lacquer dry before applying the U-POL it won't work, it's good stuff but you need to be careful or it might run the lacquer.
Quest, was that initially only paint or clear coated paint?
Is it ok to use upol and polish paint only application in touch up to reduce edge?
Should paint be coated with clear first?
You can use it on color like single stage paint or with clear coat. It will melt the dry edge of any compatible paint. If not sure if it's compatible try a practice area first :)
The pros always talk about using blender. I just have trouble trusting anything UPOL, only if there's no other option; which may be the case. Albeit this is from my limited upol experience, may be just 1k in general I'm done with; this isnt even paint so i guess.. but even the name is annoying to me- UPOL 🤔
Thanks for the demonstration Jerry. I guess when a cleaner appearence is needed. It did seem to work, but i dont buff - F that.. on my 20 footer side jobs I just run 2 or 3 soft tape lines on top each other. After each coat i pull one so the clear thickness steps down. It's good from 5 -10 feet. A slight hand buff is good enough to knock down the edge. If its sanded well with 2k clear it seems to hold well. At least 3 years so farm
What ever you are happy with, I've been using U-POL products for years as well as other brands and I can't fault them, however single stage products no matter what brand can be trouble sometimes
I used blend agent to make some dry spots gone.
Great video . Is this used on 2pk. Or lacquer or both ?. Thanks Gerry . Have a good week.
.
I'm pretty sure this is just for urethane. If you melt in lacquer, it was very common to just thin the paint a lot. Same for enamel really - you could just reduce the paint or clear but this is much more convenient with a nice gentle spray :)
Looks good. Great video nice job
Thanks Brad - have a good weekend :)
Give the spray max blender a try it’s the best stuff I’ve used. Been painting a lot never failed me. Doesn’t spit or create more problems just works like it shoulf
Thanks for your advise Mark - I'll give it a try. Have a great week :)
I ordered some so we'll give it a whirl :)
@@LakesideAutobody sweet. I think you will love it. It works great with your sealer edge too. Just kill the edge with it after your done spraying sealer then when you go to tack off the sealer/ panel you will get a really smooth transition.
@@markmikheyev6730 Nice - thanks again for the tip Mark 👍🛠😊
Hey Jerry, great video. Does that only work on base/clear or does it work on single stage? I take it, if its single stage, just paint the whole panel? Have a great weekend
It works for both - have a good weekend too GM 🏈🏈🏈
Thank you Jerry for answering that, really appreciate you and your extreme talent for autobody!
@@gm-lb9oe You're welcome GM - thanks for always watching - glad you like the channel :)
I need to do a paint repair on some black base/clear job that I did on my 68 GT500KR that I sprayed a couple of months ago that is in the middle of a panel. I will be very interested to find out if that UPOL blend works for something like that.
Do the whole panel! That doesn't sound like a quicky slap up job.
Like JR says, it might be best to shoot the whole panel :)
@@LakesideAutobody I have not repaired this yet. I just left it as is for now as it really is not that noticeable at all. But I did use the UPOL #9 as stated in my comment above.
👍😊@@VegasRT500
Great videos!!. How would you blend paint and clear up to a body style line? I guess the question is: how do you end base and clear at the body style line and then wet sand? Wouldn't there be a suttle line as the paint and clear end at the same point?
It is usually not done because of exactly what you are talking about but here's a video or "hack" in which it was done successfully. It depends on where you do it, the color, etc. The biggest problem is matching not the line as you can sand and buff - th-cam.com/video/3yHl5R7yfwk/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobody Excellant. Thank You!!!
This could help me with my touch up
Looks good
Are you blending the base coat, or clear coat? Would it help with “spray can touch up with built in clear coat”.
I saw one video where they sprayed the blend BEFORE the color?
I'm melting in the dry edge or blending the new clear coat into the old. You can use it many different ways like you saw in the vid. Very often painters will pour some clear in the color - very common in the 70's 80's 90's :)
What about over-reducing the clear?
That works pretty good too - here's what that looks like - th-cam.com/video/uhChu7obx0o/w-d-xo.html
??? I rubbed through a couple of spots taking out the runs with a blade then cutting and buffing. Single stage urethane , is there any hope of maybe air brushing these spots then cut and buff again. Thanks love your tips and have used many. Chuck
You could try it then hit it with a light shot of this to melt the edges, lightly wet sand and buff. Also, if it's a solid color you'll have a better chance than with metallic paint. It will be challenging though. If you try it let me know how it goes for you 😊
@@LakesideAutobody thanks it's wimbledon white , I have brush touched up some small spots and scraped them fairly successfully.. thanks again
@@chucktripp5722 👍
In 1979 , When we All Passed The Barriers Of Lacquer To Polyurethane, That Was One Of My Questions To The DuPont Technician. He Don’t have the Answer at The Moment. I Gave Him My Home Phone Number. And He Called Me. And explain Me, How To Prepare The Area, cleaning With Rubbing Compound by Hand and a Rag. Then Spray a Thin Coat of 222S Adhesion Promoter, (to prevent peeling) . After spray the Clear Coat. Add To The residual bottom of the cup Clear Blender, And Spray Very Thin . The Shine Was even. And don’t need Wet Sand after dry To Buff. Those Sprays tend to Peel. Because are Slightly Activated Blenders, Without enough Adhesion. For a Lasting Job, And A Permanent Customer I Personally Use The Old System.
Thanks for the info Ramon 😊
All I saw was buffing??? Where did you spray anything on? What did it look like prior?? Why did you choose this blend UPOL #9 over any waxing product for melting in? Is it because melting in needs a bonding for pulled paint fines allowing to fill in spaces? I mean I guess I'm in the right direction. How do I know I need it? Can it work with chipped/degraded clear coat?
It's used right after you spray the last coat of color or clear to melt in the dry area. Old days you used thinner or reducer or really thin paint/clear. I did it when the room cleared of fumes 'cause I didn't want to breath them. Just a quick shot and it melts the blend - then buff when it's all dry :)
I have a fresh paint job about a week old that I nicked the box while putting the cap back on I lightly sanded the bad area and was wondering if I could use a slow reducer as a blending agent or should I get a blending agent
The nice thing about blending agents is the way it sprays out - nice and atomized. You can get similar results with reducer as that's what was used for quite some time or at least guys tried to use it for that purpose. Myself, I'd go with the blending agent like this one - seems to melt in a bit easier :)
@LakesideAutobody thank you for getting back with me you have always given good advice
Perfect played
👍😊✌
Did you use this blender on the paint or on the clear? You mentioned paint early but it looks like clear, unless this was single stage.
You can use it on clear or SS. This was used after the clear but I waited till the fumes exited the garage. It's best to do it right after the last coat of paint or clear 👍😊🎄
Dam that looks good
What were you using for the 1000 grit sanding? Is that just a piece of sandpaper and a rubber squeegy?
Yes - just a folded sheet of 1000 grit. Here's a good video on wet sanding and buffing - how all body shops did it in the 70's, 80's, 90's. They didn't have the flat rubber blocks yet back then - just tri folded 1/2 sheets of 8.5x11 sand paper and your bare hand :)
Hello Jerry. Do you know if this could work for blending single stage acrylic? I need to paint a fender and blend into the front door and bumper. Thanks 👍
I haven't done large panels with this product. I think if it is a non metallic you might have good results. Myself, I would go with the conventional method like this - th-cam.com/video/-GHKaJS7RS0/w-d-xo.html
Was that on a single stage or can that technique be done on a single stage repair?
It can certainly be used with single stage. In the old days we would thin the paint or clear way way down and blend with that. Sometimes it worked great - sometimes not :)
I have a question about touch up on a paint job that is a month old on the wheel well lip on my 2013 ram already needs to be touched up it's only on the lip below the bodyline can I get some pointers on how to repair and how much I will have to spray
I would be able to answer better if you sent some pictures - schoolvideolibrary at gmail - Jerry
In this video did you spray the Upol #9 right after your last coat of clear?
That's the way you are supposed to use it but I had to let the fumes escape first before doing this video. It was about 15 minutes after the last coat but it still worked well :)
@@LakesideAutobody Awesome thanks!
@@LakesideAutobody A couple of posts ago you said you waited a hour. Am I missing something or misunderstanding something?
You have to know how to use a spray can first
for real... i was cringing. Like how can he know how to use a spray gun, but not know how to rattle a can
Very cool. Most of my problems are with clear.
Thanks for watching GAS 👍💯
what other meguairs product could one use in place of Diamond Cut 2.0. I have their Gold Class Clear Coat Prep and their Polishing Compound. Any suggestions welcome..Thx
You can use any compound really. I just use the diamond cut because it's somewhat coarse. If your compound isn't working then try another. Polishing compound might be too fine but worth a try :)
@@LakesideAutobody I just tried the polishing compound on a small area under the rear bumper cover...you were right...did not help much. Thx for your help
Can you blend Acrylic lacquer into 2k clear using this product?
I don't think you that would work but not totally sure. I've never had much luck putting lacquer over any type of paint other than another lacquer. The old rule of thumb was - you can spray enamel over lacquer but not lacquer over enamel. Maybe try it on a practice panel. If you do find success - let me know :)
@@LakesideAutobodyThanks for the reply, I will do !
I know you’re making a video and you’re an excellent Bodyman, but in order for spot blender to work properly from my experience as soon as you’re done laying down the clear, your head all the edges with the spot Blender you post a good brand, but I prefer iMac sort of 2K brands that’s just for my experience has a mobile Bodyman doing stuff on the street
Thanks for your input Chris. I'm not big on hanging around in the fumes so I waited. Once the fumes were gone, I did this video. I'll give it a try like you suggest - have a good weekend :)
Can UPOL blend #9 still be used later? I didn’t realized I messed up until a week later after buffing. Shoot.
I use it later but only like an hour or two. I'm not sure how it would work a lot later. If you do try it, let me know if it worked for you :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks. I’m going to give it a shot. The repair is on the roof. The car is white and it’s very hard to notice it unless the car is parked in the shade and if you look at it from an angle but it bothers my conscience lol
@@Hygoog Let me know how it goes - maybe give it a light shot at first and see what happens :)
@@LakesideAutobody should I sand it with 1500 grit before apply the stuff?
@@Hygoog I think it would work better sanding it before - yes. Then lightly sand and buff after it dries :)
Looks great
Thanks Richard :)
Bought this can at O'Rreilly for $15.00 works great.
Thanks for your input Shahen - have a good weekend :)
Did you ever try upol in the middle of a body panel? Just looked through your library and didn't see one.
I have not. However, I do think it would work well if it was used right after the last coat SS or BC/CC. Probably would have to lightly wet sand and buff though. I'll try to get a video out on that :)
I've had great results with clear blenders but most are best applied before the clear dries. People say that the blenders don't have the UV inhibitors that clear does and on horizontal surfaces that eventually UV from the sun will eat away the blender so they're best used on vertical surfaces they get less UV. I personally can not attest to the veracity of that claim but it's what I've heard.
Good point - I'll have to look out for that.
Nice!
Thanks!
Be good to see a no solvent vs solvent side by side with buffing and wet sanding?
Good idea for a video my TBT - I'm writin' it down :)
Would it have been really different if you had wet sanded and buffed without the spray first?
You might be able to see a foggy line or transition. This helps to "melt" everything together. You can use over thinned or over reduced clear to do the same thing but this I think works a bit better. Should be done right after the last coat of clear but I had to talk so I waited till the fumes were gone :)
@@LakesideAutobody I've ordered a can, I will try it, thanks.
@@LakesideAutobody I've tried without. It's not good, indeed. Now I've received the Upol 9 and will try again :)
How soon after you spray the clear do you use the Upol?
You can do right after or wait a bit. I waited 'cause I don't like to be messing around while the fumes are still in the garage. I waited about an hour. Here's the instructions - APPLICATION:
Shake the aerosol can for at least 2 minutes before use.
Sand blend area with sanding soap or 800 - 1200 grit sandpaper to prepare blend area.
Holding the aerosol approximately 10" from the panel, apply a light mist coat over the bled area of the freshly applied clearcoat or topcoat.
Apply 2-3 light coats of BLEND#9 immediately after clearcoat is applied to blend edge.
Follow the clearcoat or topcoat manufacturers instructions for flash off and drying.
@@LakesideAutobody I don't understand,in instruction first said sand blend area(which means the clear coat should be dry)but below said to spray upol 9 immediately after clear coat.
I'm confused??
Please explain
Thanks
Once again good old white used to showcase a technique. Seems extremely common in videos made to impress. Not that you are trying to impress in this video but i go to Paint shows and the demos always seem to be on white cars.
Recently used it on a 2016 Ford Focus (videos coming up) - worked well on the quarter posts as well - actually surprises me how well this stuff works. Some folks have good luck with very reduced clear coat to so... If you do it right after the clear is sprayed it works real nice.
How long do you need to wait before you sand it and buffing
Usually the next day is fine to sand and buff with any automotive paint/product 😊
Can the diamond cut compound also be applied before clear coat
You can but some compounds can cause fish eyes so maybe do a practice run first. Might want to wipe it down w/ wax and grease remover too before the clear :)
Thank you. We enjoy your videos.
looks good to me sir
Works better if you do it while the paint or clearcoat is still wet I’ve done properly buffing is not needed. That’s what the product is for in the first place. If you still have to buff what is the purpose of this product I use it all the time and if you know what you’re doing, you don’t have to buff.
You're right but I didn't want to make the video with all the fumes still in the garage. Does work best if last coat is wet still :)
Best results with this blender polish the area past the blend zone spray your clear right after have that blender ready hit until clear fade area is clear here is a Tip dry the blender with your spray gun low air !
Thanks Stingy - appreciate the tips :)
GOOD JOB THAT THANK FOR SHARING THAT
Thanks for watching - you're welcome :)
@@LakesideAutobody I got my bumper painted ford focus mk3 titanium x diesel and its totally different from the car 🚗 I have now a match and my mate said the front wings or fenders in the us 🇺🇸 😉 have to be blended
why wouldn't the wet sanding and buffing due the trick without the UPOL?
Good question. Because sometimes, especially with colors when you wet sand that dry line or overspray line, it will show or it can still be seen after buffing. I can't really explain what it looks like but you can see it. It's all smooth and shiny but you can see the blend - just looks maybe a bit foggy or has a different looking texture. The UPOL "melts" that dry overspray in and eliminates the dry texture that causes the problem :)
No. If you sand the area without melting it in, youll just sand away the new clear. Youll basically just keep moving back the line of where the new clear meets the old clear. I learned this the hard way the first time i tried it
My neigbour/neighbor has scratched my car all over (horrible paranoid old man who has claimed ownership of the parking on the public road). My local paintshop has quoted me €3,000 (approx $3,400) to compound out the scratches and then put a coat of paint and lacquer on the trunk door, four doors and hood and fenders (It's a Nissan X-Trail, little bit smaller that a Nissan Rogue). Basically all the car all around. No roof included. How does this compare with prices in the US elsewhere? Just interested to know. Thanks all.
Yes - absolutely. That would probably be very close to around here - Michigan. My friend just paid $4800 to have a dent fixed from a piece of truck tire that he ran over hitting the passenger side door and another panel (both panels could easily be fixed - not that bad) - So two panels bumped and painted = 4800 🥴
Jerry are you in giveaway?
If you mean the giveaway on your channel - yes :)
@@LakesideAutobody ok
Looks like it’s just thinners in an aerosol can. I don’t see how it’s any better than the way it’s been done with thinners in a gun for the last 35+ years. Probably good for a DIY backyarder but useless for professionals.
Getcha a Milwaukee M12 polisher
Its the best money ive spent
I'll check it out - thanks Drifter 🔥✌
Like to see it on a dark auto.
It works on all colors. Old painters used really thinned or reduced clear, paint, etc. Everyone had their own tricks.
Used the easiest colour from a great distance video wise…close up on black would of been better
The stuff works well on all colors. We used to do that same thing with thinned paint or clear sometimes even reducer or thinner depending on what you were spraying. Guys tried all kinds of stuff to get the same result as this product :)
Youre supposed to used it when the clearcoat is still wet to dissolve the edge, Looks like you waited till it was dry lol
Yep.... I had to talk for the video - didn't want to breath the fumes. Supposed to be done after last coat. Most folks I think realize that though - says it on the instructions too :)
A comment for the algorithm
Yea buddy
So...instead of the old way (lightly wet sand and buff), this method has you buy this crap, mask the area off, spray this, let dry, then lightly wet sand and buff? Sounds like a plan.
Well. the old way was to use very reduced paint or clear which means you have to mix it, stay in the fumes, etc. This you can just grab and go. I like it and have leaned that if you use it right after the last coat of clear it works great. Good, easy to use product actually :)
Another comment 👍
Great job. Protect your eyes. 9 contains cyclohexanone. That stuff is no good for your eyes. Sealed goggles. Face shields don’t keep it out
Thanks for the tip HNT. I appreciate that :)