Thank you so much Ive watched a ton of these videos and this is the only one with a nice close up of the reaction of the blending solvent working. Great video took me a week to find this video but I'm glad I did.
That's what people say when something is hard. Or involves a simple trick that makes them money for a living. Honestly hard to do without a garage, a spray gun, a good air compressor and the right compatible 2k clear product with the right solvent. That result is much harder to achieve by the home gamer. But it's not impossible and it can all be done polishing by hand because hand polishers were invented after people got tired of doing by hand; honestly though the detailing on vehicles back then was next level amazing. Stuff we can rarely appreciate outside of museums.
New to blends I always just did the entire panel .Just did my first blend and I wasn’t hopeful but it came out very good.It’s very useful to take the time to learn blends.Another technique in the learning tool box.IMO the entire panel is better but blending has so many possibilities and uses.
You can get that blending solvent in a can ready to go and it seems to work just as good imo,,also remember you dont want a huge layer of paint ever so blending would be the best way to go imo but i do see your point,,especially when u get to blending metallics or even worse tri-coat😅
Good afternoon, excellent blend. Another trick that I use to make that blend line go away is a clay bar. It really works great. Take care and good luck.
The best blend I've ever seen. Is from my current painter at work. He can blend dead middle of a panel and you will never see the edge. His trick is just scuffing with a grey scuff pad. And doing the blend and using the hot reducer like you're supposed to. Then wetsanding it and then buffing it
I have to admit I'm cautious about polishing before painting and would rather use a scotchbrite or possibly even a 2000 disc. I've always been taught to not contaminate before painting.
It also helps when you are buffing the blend to keep the rotation of the buffing pad going with the blend not against the clear edge. Not as much chance of it peeling back. Great video.
@@BadRonald1 It's a little hard to explain but if your fresh clear is on the left if you are facing the panel and your buffer is spinning to the right do not use the bottom edge of the buffing pad because it will be spinning to the left against your blend possibly adding the chance of it peeling back. Hope this makes sense . It would be easier to show in person.
Great video. Short and quick to the point. No technical terms professionals use that the novice painters won't understand or have to look up. Now alls I have to do is practice.
Great! One question: Are you spraying the blender onto the Fresh clear, and the Un-cleared, prepped area with fine scratches that the clear barely hit, and the original clear??
Old school before blending solvents came in, painters would water down the clear with thinners to blend the panel in. Something like 60-30% thinners to clear.
I tried only buffing where the new clear meets the old clear and worked pretty good but I've always wanted to try these clear blenders so that's on my next job thanks for the good explanation
I really wish I had known about your channel 3 years ago. Would have saved me a lot of money, heartache, and work if I had just done it myself over trusting two different shops. But, I wasn't confident enough to do it by myself - not until I watched a lot of your videos. I really appreciate them. I've heard that the longevity on this (done properly) is many years. One person I know did it on his front fender and 5 years later it is still just like the day he did it. I know a lot of painters frown on this, but I also know most painters aren't really that good at their craft (at least around here). Thoughts on this technique?
Great to hear, thanks for the input. The challenge with blending clear coat is that the edges of the blend will always have less UV protection than if you were to apply a full coat. It can be broken down by the sun and become visible. They will last many years if done on the side of a vehicle, but on a hood or roof it will probably fail within a few years.
Only problem I have doing this is after it's in the sun a few months the super thin layer of clear "edge" seems to appear so I'm back to clear coating the entire panel especially on dark colors
can give another good tip to this, don't just use a fade-out thinner after applying the clear coat empty your clear coat gun out and leave a residue of the clear in the gun add a bit of fade-out with it and swill it around then you will get no haze at all and in most cases, you won't need to polish the blend in and will work exactly the same will melt into the old clear coat and have a mirror finish old school and will work with just 2k thinners, but on top-notch jobs go with the fade out thinners and use a small gun like a lph80 or Sri Devilbiss more control so you don't get any runs.
Nice tip! So you can just use the reducer that comes with your clear coat to blend? Having a hard time finding a blending solvent or fade out reducer. Thanks
It's all about the solvent in the clear. Probably just takes light application because it will drip way easier if it's too heavy. But if you don't go heavy enough it orange peels. So that's the hardest part just getting that medium speed right on the 2k part, then a light/medium speed on that solvent thinned 1k blend line. Solvent needs to evaporate quickly to keep the coat even and not slump down. So it's best to do on a hot day if you don't have a heated garage.
@@waynewilliams5802 Pros say during hot days, paint in the shade and late at nights. Avoid high humidity and never paint your car in direct sunlight. If the clear coat becomes foggy, it means there is an issue with temperature or humidity. Apparently a high humidity and low ambient temperature can cause condensation and problems. So check the humidity if you live in a hot place and need to wait till night. Typically the humidity will start low during the day and then rise over the night from as low as 40% to over 80%. Optimal Temp = 23.9°C (75°F) Hi/low Range = 12.8°C to 32.2°C (55-90°F) Optimal Humidity = 40 - 50% With urethane the humidity can be quite high with no problems so long as the ambient air is not too cool and the metal does not cool off creating condensation. It really depends on how thin the clear coat is and how much solvent is in the clear coat. If there is more solvent the coat can be applied at a higher temperature. The only thing is to make sure the humidity is not super low like below 30%. If you use a bake cycle clear coat it can tolerate 80° to 140°F. Water based paint around 70°F or 5 degrees above ambient air. Solvent based paint around 90°F. It's important to check the spec of the paint you are using and understand how the amount of solvent is greater in a thinner paint which is designed to cure at a high temperature but low humidity. Thinner viscosity can work well to hide a blend line but it requires a higher temperature and low humidity to cure quickly. Contrary to popular convention. Best not to do in direct sun, but it's best if the car's metal is warm and the temperature doesn't swing dramatically. When there is sunlight the humidity is low, and the temperature is hot, which is good. But from late afternoon to evening there's a big swing, same with early morning. So maybe do it under a white canopy something to filter the UV radiation a bit and during the mid day. This would emulate a bake cycle to a degree.
hello .. with what grain is the area where the blender is sprayed opaque? ... I use a p3000 trizact ... but after a week of sunshine, the nuance becomes visible again
Had a small spot on a 2005 corolla front bumper spoiler where a rock chip turned into the clear coming off a bit. Going to give this a shot...quite worried as I'm a automotive tech by trade but never done painting. The paint and clear are only 4-5 months old so I want it looking decent. But im curious of minor burn throughs on the clear in other spots or small rock chips in paint. Is this solved the same way just multiple times in the places where it has occurred?
So beyond the blender and repair area it's just finely sanded and you would polish it out? Because you'll still get some blender over spray right and you don't want to get that on the unsanded factory clear coat? Is that correct?
I do alot of clear blending...it seems I always have the best results the day after...even after baking... I try to wait as long as possible... never have any problems that way... like you said if you hit it to early you may run in to problems. Vert true
@@jeremyeubanks2387 Look, I'm just trying to help my mom fix her car and save a little money. We did a good job with the body work but messed up with taping a bit on the final step of clear coating. There are reasons I didn't feather it right the first time. But I don't want to get into that; I just want to know if I can fix it without too much extra work. We are still gonna pay a guy to polish and detail the car. I can just go read about it but I was hoping for a tip from someone with a little experience.
That came out great. I haven't really painted much for the last few years but I have a couple of things coming up, one is fixing a 4 inch scrape on the bedside of my 2014 Metallic Black Ranger. Here I can't get blend solvent to use blending the clearcoat, I've used clear mixed with about 75% reducer before and it comes out OK, but I want this perfect like what was done here. Any suggestions? The only decent paint here is Nippon Nax Premilla, it's the only thing I've found that doesn't wrinkle the old paint like spraying lacquer over enamel used to do. That's about it. the dog
I have a question. I have a pearl black 2020 civic and need to touch up the bottom of the drivers side door half. I tried back masking but it left a thin line. Do you recommend I base out the bottom half then clear the entire door or recommend repainting the entire door to get it to blend.
Long back story and question at the end: I just repaired my front roofline (in my driveway) due to chipping large amount of flaking (its a self peeling hyundai 3 stage quartz white.) All was going well until my clearcoat appeared to have an inconsistent coverage (like zebra stripped) and it appeard that I did not apply enough. There was quite a lot of overspray on the roof as well because the wind picked up. I lightly wet sanded off the overspray and the repair area with 1200. After that I heavy compounded with McGuire 102. to even it out. I plan on applying another wet coat. My question is do I need to scuff the area again before I apply the additional layer of clearcoat? Thanks
when you polish it always starts polishing the painted part for the old one never polishing the old part for the painted part so you don't have to worry about it peeling
But why didnt you go up to the shoulder line =D No front, just thinking if the blend get's dull again after a few days in the sun,you will see it right in the quarterpanel . 50gr more clearcoat are the same as the amount of time you have spent on polishing the blend... But nice result anyways !
Question. So you painted, then clear coated and then painted again? So are you using an Interclear coat? Or are you using a regular clear coat? I have never seen anyone paint clear and then paint again over the clear unless you are using an inter-coat clear or a.k.a Clear base. Interesting!
dude why didnt u clear the panel on out its a hack job i paint every day for 30 yrs lees work if you did a spray out you woldnt have had to blend fenders.
Im sorry i was a ass but it would be a faster and a nicer job in my opinion to bust with 800 and scotch brite edges.it would always be a safer job and no hailos around clear edge.you can spend time with alternates or tinting and get as close as u can with your swatches and blend the fenders if its a bad color.we have to be careful what we are telling people me and u could do it but it takes years to do a mid panel blend without a buffer.i really didnt mean to overstep. Thanks for taking criticism like a man i got big respect for people like that .
The Eastwood LT100. It is approved by some paint manufacturers for side panels that do not receive as much sun exposure, but clearing the entire panel is ideal.
I discovered this stuff the other day at my local paint shop and it’s heaven sent. It saves so much time and paint. Also it helps when you have a simple demo like this to go by! Thanks.
Hi there great vid as usual. Just wondering, any reason why you couldn't improve adhesion of clearcoat blend by spraying a bit of regular plastic adhesion promoter before the sparying clearcoat in blend area?
@Jeremie Graveline: good question. my thought is that I don't like prepping the blend area with 600-800grit because I notice the scratches show through in harsh light. I like to go 1500+; even 2000+ on edges of spray area, but most paint manufacturers say that compromises long-term adhesion. Hence the adhesion promoter question.
@@alexmessina3383 You would need something like Cromax 222S as an adhesion promoter in this case. Plastic adhesion promoter is a different product (for plastics)
Great video! I tried this but when I sprayed the blender on the older paint it crinkled it up...not sure why. Can I do it without blender and just wet sand as and polish the blend area where the old and new clear overlaps? Also, how long do you wait before sanding or polishing?
@@waynewilliams5802 none of that would cause the old paint to crinkle up, you'd think a experienced painter would know that lol. What actually happened is I barely sanded to deep in a area so the blender hit a little basecoat...it was white base and thin clear so very hard to tell it went through. Anyway, if the blender hits any basecoat, your screwed.
older paint was not catalyzed paint. Probably synthetic enamel. this used to happen on lacquer when you burried it. Also like you say if you hit basecoat with the blender too wet. Use light coats and blow it with Air between them. I use the spray can blender because the stuff in gallon cans anymore in CA is crap. But yea you need to completely cover any base with the clear or the base is not protected. I dont ussally sand out that far with 1500 either. especially if the clear is a repaint. the blender will melt the clear and help it adhere. Clear usually has good adhesion too. I never see delamination.
Is there a way to do this without the melting component ? I'd like to fix a spot in the middle of a fender and I dont have access to the blending agent.
Refinish Network response to another user: "Great to hear, thanks for the input. The challenge with blending clear coat is that the edges of the blend will always have less UV protection than if you were to apply a full coat. It can be broken down by the sun and become visible. They will last many years if done on the side of a vehicle, but on a hood or roof it will probably fail within a few years."
very nice work guys well explained, is that an Iwata w400 spraygun Bellaria or a classic would love to know your preference on guns guys and the set ups ie tips needles and caps.
A used black car I recently bought had scratches and small dents on the panels. So the cardealer gave my car to a SMART repair person to repair the scratches and dents. On return of my car, I noticed lots of white spots (in the area where the werk was done) that couldn't be removed when I rubbed them with my finger or fingernail. Are the white spots the results from overspray?
Whats the best grit of sandpaper to use on the blending section, some like you prefer 2000 , some 1500 other 800 , but some even 3000 to 5000 grit, some say they use finer because they can see the scratches under the blending section is that true ??
It depends on the UV it is subjected to. It will vary on geographical location among other things. On the side, low on the vehicle I would expect it to last at least 5 years. I’ve done some on personal vehicles going on 6 years without an issue. Some paint companies would back this repair with a lifetime warranty.
I use the 3M 3-step system, starting with a coarse compound and finishing with a fine. Any multi-step polishing system should work fine. You can sand the area and treat it the same way as if you were polishing dirt nibs or a run out.
Great presentations are rare. I like the way you combined old school methods with new school products. Keep up the good work!
Nice to see a blend job done so people can understand the method great video
the best I have seen yet on blending.
Thank you so much Ive watched a ton of these videos and this is the only one with a nice close up of the reaction of the blending solvent working. Great video took me a week to find this video but I'm glad I did.
one of the best ive seen, a lot of people say its impossible
That's what people say when something is hard. Or involves a simple trick that makes them money for a living. Honestly hard to do without a garage, a spray gun, a good air compressor and the right compatible 2k clear product with the right solvent. That result is much harder to achieve by the home gamer. But it's not impossible and it can all be done polishing by hand because hand polishers were invented after people got tired of doing by hand; honestly though the detailing on vehicles back then was next level amazing. Stuff we can rarely appreciate outside of museums.
New to blends I always just did the entire panel .Just did my first blend and I wasn’t hopeful but it came out very good.It’s very useful to take the time to learn blends.Another technique in the learning tool box.IMO the entire panel is better but blending has so many possibilities and uses.
You can get that blending solvent in a can ready to go and it seems to work just as good imo,,also remember you dont want a huge layer of paint ever so blending would be the best way to go imo but i do see your point,,especially when u get to blending metallics or even worse tri-coat😅
Good afternoon, excellent blend. Another trick that I use to make that blend line go away is a clay bar. It really works great. Take care and good luck.
Clay bar ??? Can someone explain ??
I will try tomorrow
The best blend I've ever seen. Is from my current painter at work. He can blend dead middle of a panel and you will never see the edge. His trick is just scuffing with a grey scuff pad. And doing the blend and using the hot reducer like you're supposed to. Then wetsanding it and then buffing it
Can you just use the reducer that comes with your clear coat to blend ?
@@ethereal.airbrush I don't think so. The blender used is different I believe
I have to admit I'm cautious about polishing before painting and would rather use a scotchbrite or possibly even a 2000 disc. I've always been taught to not contaminate before painting.
It also helps when you are buffing the blend to keep the rotation of the buffing pad going with the blend not against the clear edge. Not as much chance of it peeling back. Great video.
Great tip right there Ryan!
I don't understand when you say keep the rotation of the buffing pad with the blend. Going from L to R ? or R to L ?
@@BadRonald1 It's a little hard to explain but if your fresh clear is on the left if you are facing the panel and your buffer is spinning to the right do not use the bottom edge of the buffing pad because it will be spinning to the left against your blend possibly adding the chance of it peeling back. Hope this makes sense . It would be easier to show in person.
That's handy to know, thanks!
@@ryanshirk8185 so buff toward the original ?
Great video. Short and quick to the point. No technical terms professionals use that the novice painters won't understand or have to look up. Now alls I have to do is practice.
Great teaching! I like to buff away from the blend. new sub
Worked great, tried on screaming yellow D6 I’ve been painting for less than a year correcting for 10, this is an excellent tip! Thanks
Great tips been watching you for about 5 years now and I'm starting to get into. Blending
Thanks for the support! Appreciate it.
Great! One question: Are you spraying the blender onto the Fresh clear, and the Un-cleared, prepped area with fine scratches that the clear barely hit, and the original clear??
Thank you so much, I'll be trying this tomorrow. Shitting bricks! But you've definitely helped.
I know exactly what you mean , will be doing the same soon for the first time
@@stephenhargreaves381 make sure you use the right colour! My boss told me the wrong colour (it was a trailer so I couldn't check myself)
@@ColKlinkerhofen Colour ok, using colour matched paint . Doing it next wknd , will let you know how I get on . Cheers . Steve
@@stephenhargreaves381how did it go?
Hi . It went very well, a seamless blend . Very pleased with the result . @@ColKlinkerhofen
Old school before blending solvents came in, painters would water down the clear with thinners to blend the panel in. Something like 60-30% thinners to clear.
I still do it like that. Cut the clear with reducer and burn it in.
I tried only buffing where the new clear meets the old clear and worked pretty good but I've always wanted to try these clear blenders so that's on my next job thanks for the good explanation
I really wish I had known about your channel 3 years ago. Would have saved me a lot of money, heartache, and work if I had just done it myself over trusting two different shops. But, I wasn't confident enough to do it by myself - not until I watched a lot of your videos. I really appreciate them.
I've heard that the longevity on this (done properly) is many years. One person I know did it on his front fender and 5 years later it is still just like the day he did it. I know a lot of painters frown on this, but I also know most painters aren't really that good at their craft (at least around here). Thoughts on this technique?
Great to hear, thanks for the input. The challenge with blending clear coat is that the edges of the blend will always have less UV protection than if you were to apply a full coat. It can be broken down by the sun and become visible. They will last many years if done on the side of a vehicle, but on a hood or roof it will probably fail within a few years.
@@Refinishnetwork so why would you blend it when you could clear the whole panel?
@@johnp82 seems to be a cost thing
I spray blending solvent on edge before base coat to soft old clear, and after clear coat like you .
Excellent video just what needed.Thanks for sharing
Great info and technique...I am personally trying to blend in the middle of a panel right now and it's been a while so...thank you
Only problem I have doing this is after it's in the sun a few months the super thin layer of clear "edge" seems to appear so I'm back to clear coating the entire panel especially on dark colors
Very nice job
Would love to see how to blend a panel that has a small repair towards the center of the panel and not on an edge
This is a very helpful blend video thank you for posting...
awesome video. it clearly shows steps one by one.
Thank you guys more tips to come I learned to your videos
Very nice ! Giving me hope for my project !
can give another good tip to this, don't just use a fade-out thinner after applying the clear coat empty your clear coat gun out and leave a residue of the clear in the gun add a bit of fade-out with it and swill it around then you will get no haze at all and in most cases, you won't need to polish the blend in and will work exactly the same will melt into the old clear coat and have a mirror finish old school and will work with just 2k thinners, but on top-notch jobs go with the fade out thinners and use a small gun like a lph80 or Sri Devilbiss more control so you don't get any runs.
Nice tip! So you can just use the reducer that comes with your clear coat to blend? Having a hard time finding a blending solvent or fade out reducer. Thanks
Perfect done 👍👍👌👌👌
Wow the repair is invisible, great work!.👍🏻
It's all about the solvent in the clear. Probably just takes light application because it will drip way easier if it's too heavy. But if you don't go heavy enough it orange peels. So that's the hardest part just getting that medium speed right on the 2k part, then a light/medium speed on that solvent thinned 1k blend line. Solvent needs to evaporate quickly to keep the coat even and not slump down. So it's best to do on a hot day if you don't have a heated garage.
@@brendanwood1540 in the sun in August or in the shade b?
@@waynewilliams5802 Pros say during hot days, paint in the shade and late at nights. Avoid high humidity and never paint your car in direct sunlight. If the clear coat becomes foggy, it means there is an issue with temperature or humidity. Apparently a high humidity and low ambient temperature can cause condensation and problems. So check the humidity if you live in a hot place and need to wait till night. Typically the humidity will start low during the day and then rise over the night from as low as 40% to over 80%.
Optimal Temp = 23.9°C (75°F)
Hi/low Range = 12.8°C to 32.2°C (55-90°F)
Optimal Humidity = 40 - 50%
With urethane the humidity can be quite high with no problems so long as the ambient air is not too cool and the metal does not cool off creating condensation.
It really depends on how thin the clear coat is and how much solvent is in the clear coat. If there is more solvent the coat can be applied at a higher temperature. The only thing is to make sure the humidity is not super low like below 30%.
If you use a bake cycle clear coat it can tolerate 80° to 140°F.
Water based paint around 70°F or 5 degrees above ambient air.
Solvent based paint around 90°F.
It's important to check the spec of the paint you are using and understand how the amount of solvent is greater in a thinner paint which is designed to cure at a high temperature but low humidity.
Thinner viscosity can work well to hide a blend line but it requires a higher temperature and low humidity to cure quickly. Contrary to popular convention.
Best not to do in direct sun, but it's best if the car's metal is warm and the temperature doesn't swing dramatically. When there is sunlight the humidity is low, and the temperature is hot, which is good. But from late afternoon to evening there's a big swing, same with early morning. So maybe do it under a white canopy something to filter the UV radiation a bit and during the mid day. This would emulate a bake cycle to a degree.
@@brendanwood1540 thanks for info b, I'm preparing to do my 1st clear coat spot blend
amazing video! Can i use this process over a spot that I burnt through the clear with a buffer?
Sure can!
is your cup 100% blending clear?
Can I do that with already dried up edges?
No, best bet is to try and sand as is and polish.
Can you do a blend without the reducer? Just spray to the edge of the sanding and then cut and compound the area with 2k sandpaper and polish
hello .. with what grain is the area where the blender is sprayed opaque? ... I use a p3000 trizact ... but after a week of sunshine, the nuance becomes visible again
Great video
How long did you wait till you used rubbing compund on new clear just sprayed
48 hours
Had a small spot on a 2005 corolla front bumper spoiler where a rock chip turned into the clear coming off a bit. Going to give this a shot...quite worried as I'm a automotive tech by trade but never done painting. The paint and clear are only 4-5 months old so I want it looking decent. But im curious of minor burn throughs on the clear in other spots or small rock chips in paint. Is this solved the same way just multiple times in the places where it has occurred?
So beyond the blender and repair area it's just finely sanded and you would polish it out? Because you'll still get some blender over spray right and you don't want to get that on the unsanded factory clear coat? Is that correct?
I do alot of clear blending...it seems I always have the best results the day after...even after baking... I try to wait as long as possible... never have any problems that way... like you said if you hit it to early you may run in to problems. Vert true
When you say baking, do you mean a curing time, or does that actually involve the application of heat in some way?
@@brendanwood1540 forced curing in a paint both with heat
@@jeremyeubanks2387 So as a home gamer probably not something I want to attempt? Is there a way to use the blending solvent with aerosol cans at home?
@@brendanwood1540 gamer!
@@jeremyeubanks2387 Look, I'm just trying to help my mom fix her car and save a little money. We did a good job with the body work but messed up with taping a bit on the final step of clear coating. There are reasons I didn't feather it right the first time. But I don't want to get into that; I just want to know if I can fix it without too much extra work. We are still gonna pay a guy to polish and detail the car. I can just go read about it but I was hoping for a tip from someone with a little experience.
What solvent blender do you use? Is it just the reducer that comes with your clear coat?
Nice job.
Thanks for that luck. Good job by the way. It does look mint.
That came out great. I haven't really painted much for the last few years but I have a couple of things coming up, one is fixing a 4 inch scrape on the bedside of my 2014 Metallic Black Ranger. Here I can't get blend solvent to use blending the clearcoat, I've used clear mixed with about 75% reducer before and it comes out OK, but I want this perfect like what was done here. Any suggestions? The only decent paint here is Nippon Nax Premilla, it's the only thing I've found that doesn't wrinkle the old paint like spraying lacquer over enamel used to do. That's about it. the dog
What is the durability on blending the clear ? I want to make sure car don’t comeback after 2 years
I have a question. I have a pearl black 2020 civic and need to touch up the bottom of the drivers side door half. I tried back masking but it left a thin line. Do you recommend I base out the bottom half then clear the entire door or recommend repainting the entire door to get it to blend.
Why did you polish the pannel at the start what does this do?
Man, at that point it would be easier just to clear the whole panel, but a great video, 👍👍
Link to blender product?
What blending solvent are you using
Nice!
Very good 💓💓💓
Instead of polishing the panel, could you spread on sanding paste with a gray scotchbrite pad?
I think you could, but you would have to polish that area a bit harder afterwards.
@@Refinishnetwork how come you didn't just clear the whole panel?
Long back story and question at the end:
I just repaired my front roofline (in my driveway) due to chipping large amount of flaking (its a self peeling hyundai 3 stage quartz white.) All was going well until my clearcoat appeared to have an inconsistent coverage (like zebra stripped) and it appeard that I did not apply enough. There was quite a lot of overspray on the roof as well because the wind picked up.
I lightly wet sanded off the overspray and the repair area with 1200. After that I heavy compounded with McGuire 102. to even it out. I plan on applying another wet coat.
My question is do I need to scuff the area again before I apply the additional layer of clearcoat?
Thanks
yes 800 wet and dry then clear again its called a flow coat
when you polish it always starts polishing the painted part for the old one never polishing the old part for the painted part so you don't have to worry about it peeling
Didn't understand what you mean sir
Good video. However, isn't it recommended to put some kind of a “paper bridge” so as not to let the overspray get all over?
It can help.
What spray gun is this? Spg500?
But why didnt you go up to the shoulder line =D
No front, just thinking if the blend get's dull again after a few days in the sun,you will see it right in the quarterpanel .
50gr more clearcoat are the same as the amount of time you have spent on polishing the blend...
But nice result anyways !
Thanks, brother ! 👍🏼
Any reason why you wouldn’t just clear coat that whole panel??
I believe the goal of this video was to show how to do a blend...
You bag the complete QP why not clair the complete panel
If a car is garage kept and doesn’t ever see rain/water this repair would last for at least 5 years then?
It is the UV from the sun that would break down the clear blend, but yes I would think so.
Question. So you painted, then clear coated and then painted again?
So are you using an Interclear coat?
Or are you using a regular clear coat?
I have never seen anyone paint clear and then paint again over the clear unless you are using an inter-coat clear or a.k.a Clear base.
Interesting!
Nice video but I think it's probably a lot easier to lacquer the whole panel
Was thinking the same, why not just scotch the rest??
The title of the video tells you why he didn't clear coat the whole panel.
Fast way !!! 👍
dude why didnt u clear the panel on out its a hack job i paint every day for 30 yrs lees work if you did a spray out you woldnt have had to blend fenders.
Im sorry i was a ass but it would be a faster and a nicer job in my opinion to bust with 800 and scotch brite edges.it would always be a safer job and no hailos around clear edge.you can spend time with alternates or tinting and get as close as u can with your swatches and blend the fenders if its a bad color.we have to be careful what we are telling people me and u could do it but it takes years to do a mid panel blend without a buffer.i really didnt mean to overstep. Thanks for taking criticism like a man i got big respect for people like that .
What is "Blending Solvent". Is it just your typical thinners as used when mixing paint or something special?
It's a specific blend of solvent.
you forgot to tell ppl to buff off the edge not into the edge, spinning from new clear to old clear.
No just no
Paint mfg says no
Car mfg says no
Don't do it because insurance is telling you to.
What gun are you using and is a clear blend a approved method?
The Eastwood LT100. It is approved by some paint manufacturers for side panels that do not receive as much sun exposure, but clearing the entire panel is ideal.
@@Refinishnetwork I just purchased the lt100 from Eastwood have not used it any tips? Pro and cons of the gun?
I discovered this stuff the other day at my local paint shop and it’s heaven sent. It saves so much time and paint. Also it helps when you have a simple demo like this to go by! Thanks.
Hi friend what blender brand you used and where can I find it. I like what you have done on this car.
Thanks
Nice work! What clearcoat and blending solution were you using or prefer? Brand, Specific 2k Clear?
PPG, if u can't afford PPG go with Omni or don't mess with it
Amazing job
I have a tiny bit of clear coat flaking and the rest of the paint is good. Wonder if I could do this somehow
Great explanation. Thanks
Hi there great vid as usual. Just wondering, any reason why you couldn't improve adhesion of clearcoat blend by spraying a bit of regular plastic adhesion promoter before the sparying clearcoat in blend area?
Why would you need a plastic adhesion promoter?
@Jeremie Graveline: good question. my thought is that I don't like prepping the blend area with 600-800grit because I notice the scratches show through in harsh light. I like to go 1500+; even 2000+ on edges of spray area, but most paint manufacturers say that compromises long-term adhesion. Hence the adhesion promoter question.
@@alexmessina3383 You would need something like Cromax 222S as an adhesion promoter in this case. Plastic adhesion promoter is a different product (for plastics)
Great video! I tried this but when I sprayed the blender on the older paint it crinkled it up...not sure why. Can I do it without blender and just wet sand as and polish the blend area where the old and new clear overlaps? Also, how long do you wait before sanding or polishing?
U either have trash or didn't clean area well enough. Newbies don't ever clean well enough
@@waynewilliams5802 none of that would cause the old paint to crinkle up, you'd think a experienced painter would know that lol. What actually happened is I barely sanded to deep in a area so the blender hit a little basecoat...it was white base and thin clear so very hard to tell it went through. Anyway, if the blender hits any basecoat, your screwed.
older paint was not catalyzed paint. Probably synthetic enamel. this used to happen on lacquer when you burried it. Also like you say if you hit basecoat with the blender too wet. Use light coats and blow it with Air between them. I use the spray can blender because the stuff in gallon cans anymore in CA is crap. But yea you need to completely cover any base with the clear or the base is not protected. I dont ussally sand out that far with 1500 either. especially if the clear is a repaint. the blender will melt the clear and help it adhere. Clear usually has good adhesion too. I never see delamination.
All that would of been is the solvent reacting with the original paint make sure to be extra light with the fade out thinner
Is there a way to do this without the melting component ? I'd like to fix a spot in the middle of a fender and I dont have access to the blending agent.
Try dusting on slow reducer. Be careful, far, and light. Your own risk. I do this to smooth out missed or light edges when spraying a whole panel
Nice but that blend will show in a years time.
Excellent 👊🏻
Are there any concerns with durability at the area where the new clear blends into the old?
Refinish Network response to another user: "Great to hear, thanks for the input. The challenge with blending clear coat is that the edges of the blend will always have less UV protection than if you were to apply a full coat. It can be broken down by the sun and become visible. They will last many years if done on the side of a vehicle, but on a hood or roof it will probably fail within a few years."
Why not just clear the whole panel?
It's not always practical or in budget, but it is ideal.
very nice work guys well explained, is that an Iwata w400 spraygun Bellaria or a classic would love to know your preference on guns guys and the set ups ie tips needles and caps.
A used black car I recently bought had scratches and small dents on the panels. So the cardealer gave my car to a SMART repair person to repair the scratches and dents. On return of my car, I noticed lots of white spots (in the area where the werk was done) that couldn't be removed when I rubbed them with my finger or fingernail. Are the white spots the results from overspray?
Good day mate at which pressure in psi do you spray the blending solvent
How to do this with laquer and no sanding or polishing afterwards?
What polish do you use?
can i use this methord with a 2k top coat
Awesome video. And nice work.
Whats the best grit of sandpaper to use on the blending section, some like you prefer 2000 , some 1500 other 800 , but some even 3000 to 5000 grit, some say they use finer because they can see the scratches under the blending section is that true ??
I’d say 3000-5000g is useless, because compounding removes 2000 scratches. 1000-2000 is best for any clear coat blend or repair in my experience
with which grain do you prepare the area where you spray the blender? p3000 or finer? or do you opacify only with abrasive paste?
1500 does the job
Awesome you the man✌🏽
so how long does that blended clear edge last...3yrs..5...lifetime?
It depends on the UV it is subjected to. It will vary on geographical location among other things. On the side, low on the vehicle I would expect it to last at least 5 years. I’ve done some on personal vehicles going on 6 years without an issue. Some paint companies would back this repair with a lifetime warranty.
Hi! how do you polish the shade (blender)? which compound do you use?
I use the 3M 3-step system, starting with a coarse compound and finishing with a fine. Any multi-step polishing system should work fine. You can sand the area and treat it the same way as if you were polishing dirt nibs or a run out.
Nice tip man
Do you use the blender immediately after your last coat of clear or How long after clear should you apply the blender?
It looks like immediately, according to this video and many others, while it’s still wet 👍
What is the longevity of the repair looking undetectable??
it will have a haze line on dark colors