Thanks Beaver. Your video inspired me to rebuild my GLD's front end yesterday. The suspension arms are now nice and smooth after some careful light sanding on the lower arms. Coincidentally I've gotten the same upgrades (some are still in the mail). This is the most amount money I've spent on a chassis but it's also my favorite.
I run rear wide because these are the original wheels for this GT-R body. I tune the contact patch to however I like so it turns out the same as using narrow wheels. Wide wheels can have larger contact patch than narrow but mostly it's more of a styling choice.
I use the ball link plier from Trex250 helicopter. Part number: Align H25070. You can also use plastic spudger or plastic pry tool from a mobile phone fixing kit.
Hi beaver - am considering buying a micro drift car and struggling a bit to decide which one. Would you still recommend a GLD in 2022? And assuming I bought from HRC and there were no defects, which upgrades do you still think are needed?
Yes, it's still good nowadays. It's also my personal favourite. The recommended upgrades are front aluminium bulkhead and front aluminium shock tower (because original plastic won't fit the upgrade bulkhead directly unless you mod it). That will give the car the best steering angle it can do. Also get the aluminium caster adjustment plate. Minor upgrades if you still have some budget left: front and rear aluminium knuckles and rear aluminium shock tower to complete the set. Adjustable shocks and springs are nice to have but not necessary. All in all it might end up the same price as DriftArt 2.5 but this one is more standardized Mini-Z format with narrow chassis 94mm wheelbase and fully compatible with Mini-Z body mounting points.
Hi, great video. Very detailed build and explanation. I have been watching several of your reviews hoping to decide which 1/28 vehicle to choose. I like the build quality and premium feel of MST and Yokomo but the 1/10 scale is too big to play inside my flat. I like to be able to use the mini z detailed bodies, specially Nissan, Toyota or Mitsubishi and to be able to use my Flysky NB4. I like to build kits, to be able to play with the different setups and suspension running. Maybe GL racing comes close to that build quality? Or would suggest another brand? I have also realised that it might be difficult for be seeing in the UK to purchase locally so if you could suggest a reputable retailed, if you have any links that might help the channel, let me know. Thank you.
There's DRZ V2 which has adjustable wheelbase out of the box so you'll be able to use Mini-Z 90, 94 and 98mm wheelbase bodies. However it is as much gamble as GLD in terms of quality control. Having dealt with 2 Atomic cars (DRZ V1 and AMZ) I do prefer GLD's design, steering rack and parts quality to be honest. RCM8 carries both cars in the UK. www.rcm8.net/collections/cars-micro-scale-awd-drifters Check out Garage RC as well. garagerc.net/glracing-2/
Hi beaver, I’ve recently got a bmx-r artr and I’m going to need a battery like the one you have in this video. I was wondering how do you even charge these lipos? I already have a charger but I don’t know I’m how it will plug in or will I need a new more specific charger for these smaller lipos?
Don't worry, it's just different plug and everything else is the same. A standard Lipo uses JST-XH (2.5mm pin pitch) for balance plug but these small ones use JST-PH (2.0mm pin pitch) so you can just make an adapter or make a charging wire that goes into JST-PH, charge it with a standard lipo charger and set it however you like. Normally it's 1C or the ampre equal/close to the battery capacity ie. 350mAh we can select 0.4A on the charger. Example of an adapter on the left. The one on the right is to convert a standard battery to plug into Atomic/GL ESC or anything with JST-PH plug. imgur.com/6XT0CML
What is your current reccomend for a semi budget 28th scale indoor drifter, something cool to look at, while awesome to drive. Wondering what the current opinion is for. I was flirting with a Atomic Bzr belt drive build. But then I woke up. I just want something fun with the most tinker potential, without obsolete too soon etc. Hard question but just want my money to be used with some better thought process behind it than my own. I enjoy watching how passionate you are about this size class. I come from a full micro fpv drone side, I just want a fun table top floor drifter that looks sexy, I plan on buying a decent remote I'll still like in 3 years and I have a good charger.
@@adhdisme I guess you already have the electronics and radio from BZ build so I highly recommend DRZ V2, don't bother with V1 and go for V2 instead. They have improved the car a lot. Otherwise get the GL Racing GLD. It's a good car right out of the box. If you got the defects (like mine) contact the shop and they'll sort it out.
Hello Beaver, I still waiting for my GLD order, I hope I don’t get the defective parts your describe in your video, I have a question, what brushless motor you recommend? Is lower kV (3500) give you a better torque and better control or should I get a high kV motor?
The standard setup is 3500KV. It'll give you good torque and plenty of speed already. You can also gear it with a bigger pinion (included with the car) if you want more speed. You'll only need a higher KV if you run it in a large track at much, much higher speed. Hopefully you'll get a fully working car without any defects.
Hey dude, thanks so much for all of your amazing videos! I have a question if you don't mind? I'd like to get into 1/28 RC drifting. What would you recommend? I want RWD so the Kyosho is out I think? I was looking at the GLD, I love the scale brake discs, but worry about the kit quality. Aside from this, the XRX DPA? Which would you suggest, and are there other cars I have missed? I have good experience in RC, I used to race 1/10 and 1/8 nitro, and fly RC helicopters. I just want a car that will go together fairly easily and drive well and be RWD.
These modern cars all drive really well so I think you'd be happy whichever you choose. To help you to decide easier, here are the weak points of these cars: - XRX DPA: Very soft plastic, if you are not careful you can strip the thread or break the plastic parts very easily. Spare parts are not that hard to find but you'll have to get them from China, Hong Kong or Malaysia (Chan RC, great guy, I also got my spares and upgrades from him too). Some parts like motor mount aren't designed properly so you can't secure the motor with 2 screws. The car is also much too wide for some Mini-Z bodies. - GLD: Manufacturing error, but don't worry, GL has full warranty to cover this. Steering lock as standard is the same as XRX before tuning. XRX can go 90 degrees with a bit of tuning and it helps. GLD will need a bit of modification but it can do that too. GLD is also very well-designed overall and everything goes together perfectly. You can get the spares from almost any GL Racing dealer. Apart from those cars you can also consider Atomic DRZ V2 as it has the best parts support of the lot. Mostly because Atomic dealers are easier to find than GL Racing dealers. I don't know the weak point of this car because I haven't got one yet but as far as I know you'll have to set the front suspension at an exact height otherwise the steering assembly won't work properly. Right now for me XRX DPA drives better than GLD but probably because I haven't got a time to tune it properly yet. I think I can get everything running the same though.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks, that's really useful to know. All great advice! I will look into the GLD I think... If I break any parts, I might just make them myself. I have a very accurate 3D printer and good design skills. I love the brake discs on the GLD for that scale look. Would you recommend a 3500kv motor?
@@waspishbobfish Yes, 3500KV is good for this car and I highly recommend it. You can also gear it up if you want more speed as it has enough torque to do so.
What bearings are you using here, and do you soak them in lighter fluid and then lubricate them with bearing oil, or are they this fast out of the package? Thank you for inspiring videos as always.
Wheel hub bearings are 3x6x2mm. Gearbox's are 3x6x2.5mm, be sure to put them in correctly because they look very similar. I soaked them in WD40 then dried them and applied the lube.
It's Align H25070 250 ball link plier for Align TREX250. I got mine from a local shop. I don't know if it's still available now. www.amazon.com/Align-H25070-Ball-Link-Plier/dp/B001UWAQVK
It depends on what scale you want. GLD is more suitable for 1/28 Mini-Z narrow body with 94mm wheelbase. It'll need some upgrades like front aluminium bulkhead and metal rear gear to get it working well. You can make it wide and adjustable wheelbase too but that'll take much more money to do. BMR-X is mainly for 1/24 that you use a scale model for the body. It's also more complete out of the box without any need for upgrades. Both drive really well, GLD is my favourite. BMR is easier to drive for a beginner because it has much more front traction and more mass to shift around. Be careful with the body if you crash though. The scale models are much more fragile than Mini-Z bodies. I believe BMR now sells lexan body, that'll bounce right off the wall so it should be much more durable especially if you want someone to learn how to drift.
Here you go. GLD (Servo & ESC are included): hrcarena.store/item/GLD-(HRC-Arena-Edition)-Drift-Car-Kit/5046698636345344 Motor choose 3500KV: www.aliexpress.com/item/33027684055.html Body & wheels (Skyline R32 GT-R): bit.ly/2Lnezin Tyres, ask them for LF5 for Mini-Z all narrow: facebook.com/DSracingthailand/ or www.rcmart.com/ds-racing-lf5-8-5-11mm-drift-tires-4-pcs-for-mini-z-mi-lf5-00105032 or LF4 if it's out of stock www.rcmart.com/ds-racing-mini-lf-4-8-5mm-narrow-drift-tire-4-pcs-black-for-kyosho-mini-z-mi-lf4-00086109 Battery: hrcarena.store/item/GL-Racing-2S-360mAh-Lipo-battery-pack-G/4521088926875648?cat=all&q=battery Charger: bit.ly/2V4wfR1 Radio (good starter): bit.ly/30Uw0wl Mini receiver for radiolink: bit.ly/37C234q What I actually use in this car, Flysky NB4: bit.ly/2FVvIdy Micro receiver: bit.ly/2Xwl98Z Plugs & stuffs: Battery Plug (battery side to make charger) JST-PH 2.0: goo.gl/69G4zW Battery Plug (charger side side) JST-XH 2.5: bit.ly/3bj4eM6 Battery charging plug, JST-RCY: bit.ly/3doorls Receiver Plug JST-XH 1.5 to convert standard receiver to micro plugs: goo.gl/Mhy8pV Wheel nuts, good to have: bit.ly/2Lck02G
Tuning is fun in itself and having an option to do so is great. Still, it's not as pick up and play as other simpler cars. I'd say it depends on what are you looking for. More advanced cars give you more options to tune with a cost of more complication.
Irresponsible of them to release expensive faulty kit like this, there should be a re-call or free fix for all😊 definitely discourage a lot more beginners on purchasing from them👎🏻👎🏻
You'll need to contact the shop if you got the problems. All the process are quite lengthy but they'll take care of that and send you the necessary parts to fix the car.
The aspect of having to spend a lot on upgrades to make it work is very frustrating. Luckily for me the shop took care of it but still, it took a lot of time to get everything sorted out. By the way, a new aluminium bulkhead upgrade just came out to increase the steering angle and lower front shock position to give it better tyre contact. It's good to have more development to this car but it's not going anywhere if a lot of people still got defective kits.
Thanks Beaver. Your video inspired me to rebuild my GLD's front end yesterday. The suspension arms are now nice and smooth after some careful light sanding on the lower arms. Coincidentally I've gotten the same upgrades (some are still in the mail). This is the most amount money I've spent on a chassis but it's also my favorite.
Glad you like it. Best of luck with the rest of the upgrades.
Hey Beaver, is there any specific reason you running wider tires in the rear? Is it better? Thanks
I run rear wide because these are the original wheels for this GT-R body. I tune the contact patch to however I like so it turns out the same as using narrow wheels.
Wide wheels can have larger contact patch than narrow but mostly it's more of a styling choice.
Thank you for uploading. It's so useful. Blessings.
What tool is that you're using on the ball joints? I'm always struggling to get them loose and they breaks easily on this car...
I use the ball link plier from Trex250 helicopter. Part number: Align H25070.
You can also use plastic spudger or plastic pry tool from a mobile phone fixing kit.
Hi beaver - am considering buying a micro drift car and struggling a bit to decide which one. Would you still recommend a GLD in 2022? And assuming I bought from HRC and there were no defects, which upgrades do you still think are needed?
Yes, it's still good nowadays. It's also my personal favourite.
The recommended upgrades are front aluminium bulkhead and front aluminium shock tower (because original plastic won't fit the upgrade bulkhead directly unless you mod it). That will give the car the best steering angle it can do. Also get the aluminium caster adjustment plate.
Minor upgrades if you still have some budget left: front and rear aluminium knuckles and rear aluminium shock tower to complete the set. Adjustable shocks and springs are nice to have but not necessary.
All in all it might end up the same price as DriftArt 2.5 but this one is more standardized Mini-Z format with narrow chassis 94mm wheelbase and fully compatible with Mini-Z body mounting points.
Hi, great video. Very detailed build and explanation.
I have been watching several of your reviews hoping to decide which 1/28 vehicle to choose.
I like the build quality and premium feel of MST and Yokomo but the 1/10 scale is too big to play inside my flat. I like to be able to use the mini z detailed bodies, specially Nissan, Toyota or Mitsubishi and to be able to use my Flysky NB4. I like to build kits, to be able to play with the different setups and suspension running.
Maybe GL racing comes close to that build quality?
Or would suggest another brand?
I have also realised that it might be difficult for be seeing in the UK to purchase locally so if you could suggest a reputable retailed, if you have any links that might help the channel, let me know.
Thank you.
There's DRZ V2 which has adjustable wheelbase out of the box so you'll be able to use Mini-Z 90, 94 and 98mm wheelbase bodies. However it is as much gamble as GLD in terms of quality control. Having dealt with 2 Atomic cars (DRZ V1 and AMZ) I do prefer GLD's design, steering rack and parts quality to be honest.
RCM8 carries both cars in the UK. www.rcm8.net/collections/cars-micro-scale-awd-drifters
Check out Garage RC as well. garagerc.net/glracing-2/
@@BeaversHobby Thank you much appreciated.
Hi Beaver. For a GLA V2 what kind of GL combo would you suggest: sensored or sensorless?
Hi beaver, I’ve recently got a bmx-r artr and I’m going to need a battery like the one you have in this video. I was wondering how do you even charge these lipos? I already have a charger but I don’t know I’m how it will plug in or will I need a new more specific charger for these smaller lipos?
Don't worry, it's just different plug and everything else is the same. A standard Lipo uses JST-XH (2.5mm pin pitch) for balance plug but these small ones use JST-PH (2.0mm pin pitch) so you can just make an adapter or make a charging wire that goes into JST-PH, charge it with a standard lipo charger and set it however you like. Normally it's 1C or the ampre equal/close to the battery capacity ie. 350mAh we can select 0.4A on the charger.
Example of an adapter on the left. The one on the right is to convert a standard battery to plug into Atomic/GL ESC or anything with JST-PH plug.
imgur.com/6XT0CML
@@BeaversHobby thank you for the info, now I’m able to understand how it works.
@@midnitejmpr9429 My pleasure.
What is your current reccomend for a semi budget 28th scale indoor drifter, something cool to look at, while awesome to drive. Wondering what the current opinion is for. I was flirting with a Atomic Bzr belt drive build. But then I woke up.
I just want something fun with the most tinker potential, without obsolete too soon etc. Hard question but just want my money to be used with some better thought process behind it than my own. I enjoy watching how passionate you are about this size class.
I come from a full micro fpv drone side, I just want a fun table top floor drifter that looks sexy, I plan on buying a decent remote I'll still like in 3 years and I have a good charger.
Atomic drz with mod knuckles?
@@adhdisme I guess you already have the electronics and radio from BZ build so I highly recommend DRZ V2, don't bother with V1 and go for V2 instead. They have improved the car a lot. Otherwise get the GL Racing GLD. It's a good car right out of the box. If you got the defects (like mine) contact the shop and they'll sort it out.
Hello Beaver, I still waiting for my GLD order, I hope I don’t get the defective parts your describe in your video, I have a question, what brushless motor you recommend? Is lower kV (3500) give you a better torque and better control or should I get a high kV motor?
The standard setup is 3500KV. It'll give you good torque and plenty of speed already. You can also gear it with a bigger pinion (included with the car) if you want more speed. You'll only need a higher KV if you run it in a large track at much, much higher speed.
Hopefully you'll get a fully working car without any defects.
@@BeaversHobby thanks Beaver for your advice, hope to see more video from you. 👍
@@oliverstoys8411 My pleasure. Good luck with the project.
@@BeaversHobby thanks 😊
@@oliverstoys8411 My pleasure.
Let us know how the tuning goes, and tips pls. Nice vid 👌🏼👌🏼
I will.
Hey dude, thanks so much for all of your amazing videos! I have a question if you don't mind? I'd like to get into 1/28 RC drifting. What would you recommend? I want RWD so the Kyosho is out I think? I was looking at the GLD, I love the scale brake discs, but worry about the kit quality. Aside from this, the XRX DPA? Which would you suggest, and are there other cars I have missed? I have good experience in RC, I used to race 1/10 and 1/8 nitro, and fly RC helicopters. I just want a car that will go together fairly easily and drive well and be RWD.
These modern cars all drive really well so I think you'd be happy whichever you choose.
To help you to decide easier, here are the weak points of these cars:
- XRX DPA: Very soft plastic, if you are not careful you can strip the thread or break the plastic parts very easily.
Spare parts are not that hard to find but you'll have to get them from China, Hong Kong or Malaysia (Chan RC, great guy, I also got my spares and upgrades from him too). Some parts like motor mount aren't designed properly so you can't secure the motor with 2 screws. The car is also much too wide for some Mini-Z bodies.
- GLD: Manufacturing error, but don't worry, GL has full warranty to cover this. Steering lock as standard is the same as XRX before tuning. XRX can go 90 degrees with a bit of tuning and it helps. GLD will need a bit of modification but it can do that too.
GLD is also very well-designed overall and everything goes together perfectly. You can get the spares from almost any GL Racing dealer.
Apart from those cars you can also consider Atomic DRZ V2 as it has the best parts support of the lot. Mostly because Atomic dealers are easier to find than GL Racing dealers.
I don't know the weak point of this car because I haven't got one yet but as far as I know you'll have to set the front suspension at an exact height otherwise the steering assembly won't work properly.
Right now for me XRX DPA drives better than GLD but probably because I haven't got a time to tune it properly yet. I think I can get everything running the same though.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks, that's really useful to know. All great advice! I will look into the GLD I think... If I break any parts, I might just make them myself. I have a very accurate 3D printer and good design skills. I love the brake discs on the GLD for that scale look. Would you recommend a 3500kv motor?
@@waspishbobfish Yes, 3500KV is good for this car and I highly recommend it. You can also gear it up if you want more speed as it has enough torque to do so.
What bearings are you using here, and do you soak them in lighter fluid and then lubricate them with bearing oil, or are they this fast out of the package? Thank you for inspiring videos as always.
Wheel hub bearings are 3x6x2mm. Gearbox's are 3x6x2.5mm, be sure to put them in correctly because they look very similar.
I soaked them in WD40 then dried them and applied the lube.
@@BeaversHobby Many thanks! Keep up the great work.
Where did you got this tool to take off the ball links?
It's Align H25070 250 ball link plier for Align TREX250. I got mine from a local shop. I don't know if it's still available now. www.amazon.com/Align-H25070-Ball-Link-Plier/dp/B001UWAQVK
Thanks a lot!
Would you suggest the GL ove the BMR-X?
It depends on what scale you want.
GLD is more suitable for 1/28 Mini-Z narrow body with 94mm wheelbase. It'll need some upgrades like front aluminium bulkhead and metal rear gear to get it working well. You can make it wide and adjustable wheelbase too but that'll take much more money to do.
BMR-X is mainly for 1/24 that you use a scale model for the body. It's also more complete out of the box without any need for upgrades.
Both drive really well, GLD is my favourite. BMR is easier to drive for a beginner because it has much more front traction and more mass to shift around. Be careful with the body if you crash though. The scale models are much more fragile than Mini-Z bodies. I believe BMR now sells lexan body, that'll bounce right off the wall so it should be much more durable especially if you want someone to learn how to drift.
How much time does it take to build this kit
If I remember correctly it was 7.5-8 Hours from box to fully working but minus fixing afterwards.
Can you put links to where you buy everything like motor sorvo and everything
Here you go.
GLD (Servo & ESC are included): hrcarena.store/item/GLD-(HRC-Arena-Edition)-Drift-Car-Kit/5046698636345344
Motor choose 3500KV: www.aliexpress.com/item/33027684055.html
Body & wheels (Skyline R32 GT-R): bit.ly/2Lnezin
Tyres, ask them for LF5 for Mini-Z all narrow: facebook.com/DSracingthailand/ or www.rcmart.com/ds-racing-lf5-8-5-11mm-drift-tires-4-pcs-for-mini-z-mi-lf5-00105032
or LF4 if it's out of stock www.rcmart.com/ds-racing-mini-lf-4-8-5mm-narrow-drift-tire-4-pcs-black-for-kyosho-mini-z-mi-lf4-00086109
Battery: hrcarena.store/item/GL-Racing-2S-360mAh-Lipo-battery-pack-G/4521088926875648?cat=all&q=battery
Charger: bit.ly/2V4wfR1
Radio (good starter): bit.ly/30Uw0wl
Mini receiver for radiolink: bit.ly/37C234q
What I actually use in this car, Flysky NB4: bit.ly/2FVvIdy
Micro receiver: bit.ly/2Xwl98Z
Plugs & stuffs:
Battery Plug (battery side to make charger) JST-PH 2.0: goo.gl/69G4zW
Battery Plug (charger side side) JST-XH 2.5: bit.ly/3bj4eM6
Battery charging plug, JST-RCY: bit.ly/3doorls
Receiver Plug JST-XH 1.5 to convert standard receiver to micro plugs: goo.gl/Mhy8pV
Wheel nuts, good to have: bit.ly/2Lck02G
its fancy but is it more fun compared to a more simple car?
Tuning is fun in itself and having an option to do so is great. Still, it's not as pick up and play as other simpler cars. I'd say it depends on what are you looking for. More advanced cars give you more options to tune with a cost of more complication.
@@BeaversHobby ow I say dear chap more opinions the better tweeks better setting great video
How did you brake it?
Manufacturing defects. I've got warped 15T reduction gear, warped front knuckles and brittle ball caps.
For racing that means its not drivable
@@MrJob91 Exactly!
GL Racing doesn't even list this kit on their website anymore. Hopefully they're fixing it.
They never have this one on their official website in the first place, only on HRC. And that's pretty weird.
Irresponsible of them to release expensive faulty kit like this, there should be a re-call or free fix for all😊 definitely discourage a lot more beginners on purchasing from them👎🏻👎🏻
You'll need to contact the shop if you got the problems. All the process are quite lengthy but they'll take care of that and send you the necessary parts to fix the car.
I'm so so mad at this defected kit that I just toss it away and move on lol
The aspect of having to spend a lot on upgrades to make it work is very frustrating.
Luckily for me the shop took care of it but still, it took a lot of time to get everything sorted out.
By the way, a new aluminium bulkhead upgrade just came out to increase the steering angle and lower front shock position to give it better tyre contact. It's good to have more development to this car but it's not going anywhere if a lot of people still got defective kits.
Do you have any to sale
Sorry, I don't sell cars.