What was your magnet glue process? Body side first with fenders attached? Stack magnets on body attached ones, add glue, and place body on chassis? Just wondering about getting perfect alignment with the magnets.
I don't exactly remember, but I kind of want to say it might be the other way around. Chassis Fender side first and when that's done, add the other magnet and put glue on it, then turn the body upside-down and let the chassis sit on top of it so that the chassis weight pushes down on the fenders. I don't think it matters either way, just need to make sure they line up.
Great job with this video yet again 🤙🏻 Going to go long with comments. Ha. So to be clear, I am a newbie to this hobby and have just bought a Scout Gen 8 RTR as my first RC vehicle. My partner on the job got me hooked, now I'm trying to compete with his truck. On topic of this video. I added a magnet to my front four locations (2 locs per side), gave me good alignment, to give me a 3 magnet stack. Level height is good and great attachment. I am also working on cutting off the connection tips of the included old school posts, and mounting a magnet system on top (front and rear), to stiffen the body to eliminate body shake and help with roll over body pop. Love the front skid plate info. Another tuber I sub to Exocage prints the same and will customize with name etc. for 20.00 including S&H. I'm going with his. You and your subs. may like that option. Tell him I sent you. No discount but I talk with the guy and just want him to know what goes around comes around. HA. Now maybe you or another sub. could help me with some problems. First know I have repositioned the tie rod both sides and still have body pull down. Have not done your recent mod. yet. But lowering the pitman arm (steering horn?) is a must same as a real truck. I think over all this Gen 8 front end is not the best design. Same as the pull to the left on front end full down. Ok. Now my issues. I'm running the HR brass weight portals and think there definitely is a need for hub spacers for some rims. Thoughts? When checking for grease and and installing mods I have come across several stripped from the factory locations. I'm not using a torque wrench but I've done right for all other locations. Solution to solve? This Gen 8 has only ran around my backyard twice, brand new. Will be contacting Redcat, but still would like to know what the hobby fix is for this? On a real car I would tap out or use a heli coil. HA. My biggest problem is now that I have replaced the servo and have full range of steering before I get tire rub (which I can dial out since there are no stops), I get what sounds like grinding or catching in the portal assembly. Lots of noisy bumping with major vibration. The faster I turn up. Have not disconnected the driveshaft to check free spinning yet. Thoughts? 🤙🏻
That was quite the read... LOL! I'm familiar with Exocage's channel and that print is available on Thingiverse as well for the front skid guard. I wanted something I could use while I wait until I have a chance to have my friend print some stuff though, since I don't have a 3D printer. With the first version of steering mod, some people have issues, some don't. I didn't, but for some, using a spacer longer screw alleviated some of the issues, but you don't want to move it down so much that you are back to square one with differing angles from the panhard rod. I don't have brass weight ports, so I couldn't help you much there. You could get wider hexes if you needed to though. As for the steering, you'll need to correctly set your endpoints. You could be getting some binding from going past the ideal limits of steering angle for the components. Usually when I think of bumping/jerking like that, it's when something is binding and not smoothly rotating.
Nah, they screw on directly. The only work you'll need is if you want to use all 4 holes on the guard. Currently it's only using 2. You'd have to drill 2 more holes on the guards if you want a 4 screw mount. Or you can use a screw and locknut on the front hole to give resistance against the chassis frame should you decide that 2 screws isn't sturdy enough.
Yeah it was. No wonder I was having so much trouble initially with the body mounting when I had velcro. The velcro hid it well, because it didn't need to be exactly perfect.
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Thanks brother for the info
Thanks for stopping by and checking the video out!
Great video and tips
👍🤙✌
Nice work bro
Thanks, Appreciate it bro!
Nice job man... came out great!! 👌🏻👍🏻
Thanks! I was surprised by how off my body mounts were from the factory. All worked out in the end though!
Great work man, I'm getting ready to do the bolt on magnet mounts for mine
Right on, That'll work!
nice idea .good for easy magnetic mount.
Yes, it does make it a lot easier to mount the body. Thanks for watching!
I really like how you used the magnets, turned out really slick.
Thank you sir! Appreciate you watching!
What was your magnet glue process? Body side first with fenders attached? Stack magnets on body attached ones, add glue, and place body on chassis? Just wondering about getting perfect alignment with the magnets.
I don't exactly remember, but I kind of want to say it might be the other way around. Chassis Fender side first and when that's done, add the other magnet and put glue on it, then turn the body upside-down and let the chassis sit on top of it so that the chassis weight pushes down on the fenders. I don't think it matters either way, just need to make sure they line up.
Great job with this video yet again 🤙🏻
Going to go long with comments. Ha.
So to be clear, I am a newbie to this hobby and have just bought a Scout Gen 8 RTR as my first RC vehicle. My partner on the job got me hooked, now I'm trying to compete with his truck.
On topic of this video. I added a magnet to my front four locations (2 locs per side), gave me good alignment, to give me a 3 magnet stack. Level height is good and great attachment. I am also working on cutting off the connection tips of the included old school posts, and mounting a magnet system on top (front and rear), to stiffen the body to eliminate body shake and help with roll over body pop.
Love the front skid plate info. Another tuber I sub to Exocage prints the same and will customize with name etc. for 20.00 including S&H. I'm going with his. You and your subs. may like that option. Tell him I sent you. No discount but I talk with the guy and just want him to know what goes around comes around. HA.
Now maybe you or another sub. could help me with some problems.
First know I have repositioned the tie rod both sides and still have body pull down. Have not done your recent mod. yet. But lowering the pitman arm (steering horn?) is a must same as a real truck. I think over all this Gen 8 front end is not the best design. Same as the pull to the left on front end full down.
Ok. Now my issues.
I'm running the HR brass weight portals and think there definitely is a need for hub spacers for some rims. Thoughts?
When checking for grease and and installing mods I have come across several stripped from the factory locations. I'm not using a torque wrench but I've done right for all other locations. Solution to solve? This Gen 8 has only ran around my backyard twice, brand new. Will be contacting Redcat, but still would like to know what the hobby fix is for this? On a real car I would tap out or use a heli coil. HA.
My biggest problem is now that I have replaced the servo and have full range of steering before I get tire rub (which I can dial out since there are no stops), I get what sounds like grinding or catching in the portal assembly. Lots of noisy bumping with major vibration. The faster I turn up. Have not disconnected the driveshaft to check free spinning yet. Thoughts? 🤙🏻
That was quite the read... LOL! I'm familiar with Exocage's channel and that print is available on Thingiverse as well for the front skid guard. I wanted something I could use while I wait until I have a chance to have my friend print some stuff though, since I don't have a 3D printer. With the first version of steering mod, some people have issues, some don't. I didn't, but for some, using a spacer longer screw alleviated some of the issues, but you don't want to move it down so much that you are back to square one with differing angles from the panhard rod. I don't have brass weight ports, so I couldn't help you much there. You could get wider hexes if you needed to though. As for the steering, you'll need to correctly set your endpoints. You could be getting some binding from going past the ideal limits of steering angle for the components. Usually when I think of bumping/jerking like that, it's when something is binding and not smoothly rotating.
Pretty much work?? Did you have to mod that skid front plate to make it fit? Just curious if “pretty much” means it worked or it needed some skillz
Nah, they screw on directly. The only work you'll need is if you want to use all 4 holes on the guard. Currently it's only using 2. You'd have to drill 2 more holes on the guards if you want a 4 screw mount. Or you can use a screw and locknut on the front hole to give resistance against the chassis frame should you decide that 2 screws isn't sturdy enough.
Ty
My Gen 8 body is the same way. I'm going to have to move the rear fender assembly back like you did. 😐
Bummer! Well it's not too bad. At least it actually works great after you correct the placement!
Damn that was off by a pretty good amount
Yeah it was. No wonder I was having so much trouble initially with the body mounting when I had velcro. The velcro hid it well, because it didn't need to be exactly perfect.
Супер видео мой друг 👍👍👍
Thank you for watching! Appreciate the support!