I have had my 2017 Silverado since it had 8 miles on it. I’m at 85k and my brakes started screaming. So I looked at your video and you walked me through step by step and I loved it. All done in my garage with no assistance. You are amazing! Keep it up!
Good info. I’m at 170k mi on my 2017 silverado and just now getting a little vibration. I drive a lot of highway and bought the truck new. Thanks for the video. It’s definitely gonna help save time on the brake job.
Last set I changed on my silverado had 11500 miles and the pad still had life left on them. I've replaced pads on all of my vehicles for the past 45 years (at lest 8 sets )and never replaced rotors or had them turned. Never had a problem. Nice video and an AFor effort.
Yeah I guess it’s all how you drive them and how you were taught! I’m a firm believer that heat warps metal, especially in a rotor. That can cause pulsation. I appreciate the comments thank you!
Good video. Don’t forget to brush off any rust around caliper clips. Also, you need to check the caliper rubber boots and pin to make sure they are well greased and boots are not worn out.
Just FYI you don't have to put those screws back in the rotors. They are put in at the factory just to hold the rotors in place as it goes down the assembly line.
Very nice tutorial, however those pads looked like new (great shape).. One big mistake you made was never put grease on the atmospheric side of the pad hardware slide surface.. The pads do not need grease to slide and the grease will only get contaminated with road dirt , grime , brake dust and end up getting hard and restrictive to the sliding action of the pads. You should also remove and grease the slide pins while you have it apart. Otherwise, nice slow tutorial and should be helpful to many.
57,000 miles and you're shocked? I just changed all 4 rotors and pads on my 2016 1500 and I'm at 115,000 and the stock pads still had some life left. Your front hubs looked a little crusty. You should have cleaned them up with a wire brush to avoid any vibration issues.
@@dondoes4303 Actually, that seems to be pretty normal for these trucks going by posts in various forums. I jumped the gun a little. I probably had another 5 or 6 thousand miles left, but I didn't want to be laying in the driveway in the snow changing them.
I don’t believe it matters which wheel you start with when bleeding. You need to read about it bleeding the breaks isn’t something you “just do”. Why do you feel you need to bleed them? Did you crack a brake line and get air in the lines?
Available on Amazon SUERCUP 1/2-inch Drive Torque Wrench - 10-170 ft.lb/13.6-230.5 Nm, Dual-Direction Adjustable 72 tooth Click Torque Wrench with Buckle for Bicycle, Moto and Car Maintenance a.co/d/9O6sbEk
How did you get the caliper bracket bolts lose? I’ve been on them with an impact gun. I finally got one off and it looks like it was put on with permanent loctite. Almost looks like expanding spray foam.
Wow! I used a half inch drive ratchet and a rubber mallet. Remember, like I said in the video if you are facing the rotor from the outer side you have to go clockwise as the threads are reverse to your view. But you know that if you got one off. It took me a good 20 minutes to break them loose!
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I have had my 2017 Silverado since it had 8 miles on it. I’m at 85k and my brakes started screaming. So I looked at your video and you walked me through step by step and I loved it. All done in my garage with no assistance. You are amazing! Keep it up!
Thank you very much for the kind words! I’m glad it helped!
Good info. I’m at 170k mi on my 2017 silverado and just now getting a little vibration. I drive a lot of highway and bought the truck new. Thanks for the video. It’s definitely gonna help save time on the brake job.
Last set I changed on my silverado had 11500 miles and the pad still had life left on them. I've replaced pads on all of my vehicles for the past 45 years (at lest 8 sets )and never replaced rotors or had them turned. Never had a problem. Nice video and an AFor effort.
Yeah I guess it’s all how you drive them and how you were taught! I’m a firm believer that heat warps metal, especially in a rotor. That can cause pulsation. I appreciate the comments thank you!
Just hit 110K on my 2015 Silverado and the brakes are now just squeaking. They've lasted forever.
Great info
@@cesarzatarain5032 thank you!
Good video. Don’t forget to brush off any rust around caliper clips. Also, you need to check the caliper rubber boots and pin to make sure they are well greased and boots are not worn out.
Very valid points! Being low mileage I wouldn’t expect the rubber to be damaged yet but we should always check and the pads came with new hardware.
my 2017 just hit 60 k i think i should probably check my brakes and rotors...since i plan to install them myself im going to used this video ..thanks
@@josecasillas5175 great DIY is always the best in my opinion.
Wow still on my first brakes and rotors. Hit 96000 the other day
Pb blaster and liquid wrench are a useful tool people.
Awesome video 👍
Thank you!
Just FYI you don't have to put those screws back in the rotors. They are put in at the factory just to hold the rotors in place as it goes down the assembly line.
I like to put everything back the way it came
@@dondoes4303 I enjoyed the video. Thanks for posting.
Good job
Thanks!
Im ready to fix my silverado 2015 thank you
You are very welcome!
Very nice tutorial, however those pads looked like new (great shape).. One big mistake you made was never put grease on the atmospheric side of the pad hardware slide surface.. The pads do not need grease to slide and the grease will only get contaminated with road dirt , grime , brake dust and end up getting hard and restrictive to the sliding action of the pads. You should also remove and grease the slide pins while you have it apart. Otherwise, nice slow tutorial and should be helpful to many.
57,000 miles and you're shocked? I just changed all 4 rotors and pads on my 2016 1500 and I'm at 115,000 and the stock pads still had some life left. Your front hubs looked a little crusty. You should have cleaned them up with a wire brush to avoid any vibration issues.
Thanks for the comments! At 115k on the original pass you should be doing commercials for OEM products for them! That is unheard of!
@@dondoes4303 Actually, that seems to be pretty normal for these trucks going by posts in various forums. I jumped the gun a little. I probably had another 5 or 6 thousand miles left, but I didn't want to be laying in the driveway in the snow changing them.
I'm finally changing my fronts at 157K. 2017 Silverado High Country. Lots of highway miles.
Take that little bolt and throw it away you dont need it. Its only for factory assembly line
Are you not supposed to crack open the reservoir cap before pushing the pistons in?
You can, I addressed that at the 8:48 mark.
Let us hear the click/beep when you're torqueing.
Witch tire we start with for bleeding then how we bleed just step on break hard?
I don’t believe it matters which wheel you start with when bleeding. You need to read about it bleeding the breaks isn’t something you “just do”. Why do you feel you need to bleed them? Did you crack a brake line and get air in the lines?
Im changing mine this week on 2018 78 thousand just started shaking alittle.
Where do you take your rotors to be turned. I can't think of anyplace that still does it.
I went to O’reilly auto parts. Also if you have a Napa Auto around you I think they still do it. Hope this helps!
@@dondoes4303 Thanks
If it is OK, please let me know the torque wrench that you used for 170 ft-lbs
I’ll have to go look. I bought it at O’reilly auto parts. I’ll get back to you soon.
Thank you
@@jlee2010sk I’m sorry the torque wrench I bought doesn’t have brand name on it anywhere. I did get it at O’reilly auto like I said.
Available on Amazon SUERCUP 1/2-inch Drive Torque Wrench - 10-170 ft.lb/13.6-230.5 Nm, Dual-Direction Adjustable 72 tooth Click Torque Wrench with Buckle for Bicycle, Moto and Car Maintenance a.co/d/9O6sbEk
How did you get the caliper bracket bolts lose? I’ve been on them with an impact gun. I finally got one off and it looks like it was put on with permanent loctite. Almost looks like expanding spray foam.
Wow! I used a half inch drive ratchet and a rubber mallet. Remember, like I said in the video if you are facing the rotor from the outer side you have to go clockwise as the threads are reverse to your view. But you know that if you got one off. It took me a good 20 minutes to break them loose!
@@dondoes4303 yeah, it took me about 3 hours to get one off. And I rounded the head on another one.
@@richardsimmarano5360 man I’m sorry to hear that! No way it should have been that tight!
Get a small butane torch, heat them up to loosen the lock tite
Don’t know how or why some of these guys make Videos
Not sure what you mean?
@@dondoes4303 Sorry, nothing to do with you ,