Weak Transom Sounds.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.พ. 2012
- Here are the good sounds and the bad sounds that a transom on a boat can make.
Edit - for all that have shown concern that I was hitting a customers boat with a hammer, it was my own boat!
This boat went to the landfill, as we take one every few weeks. Most of them are a lot nicer than this one.
Here is an TH-cam example of what they do with them
• Video - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Beautiful! Thanks! So many sources say to check for rot in transom by tapping, but you realized that we needed to actually hear what it sounds like, good vs bad. Well done!! Thank you.
Thanks for sharing simple yet effective
thanks!
I bought a 59 17' cuddy and the transom and end of stringers must be made of old growth and treated because it's all like steel it's so hard but I do have a hollow sound in an area and drilled a hole and the wood is rock solid so I assume theres exceptions. No?
If it shows to be solid , then all is good.
One side is bad and one side is ok. If you were a poor man and had a life jacket would you use that boat for another season and just don’t over 15 -20 mph?
Would they boat still be safe to use for a summer. Then relsvebin the winter?
Two things happen with a weak transom. As the transom and motor flex, the engine alignment causes undue strain on the drive coupler which makes it fail and you will be stranded on the water. Secondly, the transom gimbal assembly will pull away from the transom and cause the boat to start to take on water. If you gave a good automatic bilge pump, it should keep up with the leak in most cases.
I am unsure of what " relsvebin " is, but if the transom has rotten wood, the floor usually has soft spots, and water has rotted the stringers under the floor of the boat.
I have seen many "TH-cam" video clips on tearing out the transom, floor and stringers for repair. Many actually show how to fit in the wood that is being replaced in the stringers. Some show fitting the wood for the transom. Fewer still show the stringers and transom after they have been fiberglassed into place. Very few made it to fitting in a new floor and fiberglassing it into place.
Even at this point, the project is only about half done. Some of the following steps include building motor mounts at the correct height, cutting the transom for the gimbal assembly, installing the gimbal, installing the motor, aligning the motor, installing the drive, carpeting the floor, dealing with the interior to include seating.
Now you are still not close - Installing power trim system, plumbing the bilge pump and blower, and the battery box components.
Now you get to play catch up on routine maintenance since the motor and drive have been sitting probably for a year or so. Engine oil change and filter, carb work, tune up, impeller and fluids in the drive.
Just for fun - scan all the video clips on stringer, transom and floor repairs (and there are many) and see how many actually show the finished product running out on the water! Many start the project, but few finish. Also for fun, on the one that actually make it back to the water, check the dates from start to finished product. Most are from 2 - 3 years!
@@shipshapetn I would do all the prep work removal of everything cut out all the rotten wood stringers and get it cleaned up really good then take it to a boat rebuilder and have them finish it off.
@@shipshapetn sounds like a easy job to me.
Is this the same charertictis on a aluminium boat ?
It could be, but not as obvious as on aluminium. The wood is bonded to the fiberglass, but usually not on the aluminium boats.
Yeah you just gata use a huge hammer and hit alot harder
When your hammer goes through the glass.....you just bought the guys boat.....rot and all.
When you go buy a used Boat, nobody’s gonna let you beat on their boat with a hammer
I can tell a weak transom without hitting it with a hammer! They call it a moisture meter. This video was made to show YOU how to tell without one if a transom is weak.
Well, thanks for the information. I’m gonna go look at the boat right now and hopefully the transom isn’t rotten.
I was afraid to hit that hard because I thought it would crack the gelcoat
Just get a ball and peen light enuff
Seems like the hammer doesnt rebound on the bad spots.
That is correct!
Oh boy an omc stringer stay far away.
Very far away! Funny that was the boat I picked with a weak transom! LOL.
If your buying a boat and start beating on it like that with a hammer, think you just bought it.
No problem Max! It was my boat and it was heading to the dump because it had a rotten transom. th-cam.com/video/E2yuuu1BeIc/w-d-xo.html I can spot the tell tale signs of a weak transom as they are backing in, and do not even need to tap on it to tell. If you read the description, I was asked how an owner might be able to tell if the transom was weak. This is a response on how an owner could easily tell if a transom was weak. That was the point of this video.
If you were going to hand someone a stack of cash for a boat that was 20+ years old with a wood transom, take it to a shop and have a meter put on it to determine the moisture content. Better yet, purchase a meter from Amazon for under $30.00 and carry it with you while you are looking at boats.
@@shipshapetn do you happen to have a video of how to do this testing with a meter?
@@mikeingeorgia1 We did not use a meter on it since it was so bad.
@@shipshapetndoes a meter work through gelcoat and fiberglass?
@@shipshapetn We got it already, it's for the owner. But ppl want to see before they buy.
On my former boat I noticed the engine/transom was moving and flexing during acceleration and deceleration. I had a 115 HP Mariner and over the years water got in the transom and with that much power...everything began to "flex and move." I did a DIY repair that made it stronger than if it was brand new. Lot cheaper than having it replaced
How many hours did you have in the project from start to finish?
I'm not sure. I didn't keep track of the hours. I left the original transom intact...made templates of the inside transom above and below the well and made 3/4" plywood pieces...fiber glassed them into place. I then bought high grade aluminum sheet (3/16" thick, I think) and copied the two inside pieces with aluminum pieces. Then made a cut and fitted piece for the entire outer transom...bought about 15 stainless steel bolts...drilled holes thru all the layers and made a strong "sandwich." Then I had a stainless steel "capper" piece made for the top of the transom because I had cut the upper edge of the transom about 2" to lower the engine. Caulked it all up...mounted the new (1987) Yamaha 115 V-4 and never had any more problems again. The transom was rock solid and I didn't have to remove any of the original one.
In most cases, if we have a customer that has this problem, we can find a boat on Craigs List with a solid transom with out a motor for just a few hundred dollars. Then it is just a few hours of labor swapping the motor over. As a DIY project, you also would not have the liability involved with the structural integrity of the transom.
I'm didn't have a business so there was no liability for me. I did all that on my own and the boat was one I wanted to keep since I had it for the last 8 years. When I was done...that transom was much stronger than the original or any professional replacement I may have had done.
@@sunking2001 are you still on TH-cam? I'm curious about how your boat looks I am thinking of doing this myself