If you take a ball ping hammer and just lightly tap on the transom itll make a sharp pinging sound if the transom is good. If it's not good or rotted it will make a dull thud sound.
Love watching your content. Subscribed right away. You have talked about seat mounts and your new wooden skiff project looks great but i havent seen anything about transom savers/totes(transit supprts). I know you dont trailer far and now are mostly small engine, but you do your research and through your boating journey have learned alot. I, being new to the boat owner world would appriciate your input. Could a saver maybe help prevent this kind of rotted transom? I just got a new to me trihull and youtube and your content has been helpfull in bring it back to life
It got me through another season and I disclosed EVERYTHING to the next owner, but they only used it once, and ultimately sold it and I have no idea where the boat is now.
Dark and damp = Bad. Any wood in contact with wet wood will dry rot. I'm in the middle of a complete rebuild on a VIP Baystealth, literally every piece of wood on the boat was dust or soggy.
Stand on the engine and jump. A little nudge is not enough. Its a 150kg, 90hp engine on the back of a boat that is going to jump through the air at 30-40 mph and land flat on the water with a vengeance. The transom should take a good beating, jump on the motor a little bit and it shouldnt flex.
I would think that an additional 200 lbs. (92 Kg) of weight jumping on an engine would definitely break something that I don't want broken! A knowledgeable friend and I pushed and pulled pretty hard on the engine and moved the whole boat but the transom didn't budge. At the moment I trust it for the 20 or so more rides we plan to take this summer. But I am checking it regularly as well.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy It will take it just fine. Imagine the torque it handles when the boat jumps. Its much more than an extra 90kg. But you're probably alright, it looks fine. Just saying, that is a surefire way to test, done it tons of times, heck thats that way I get up on the boat, by stepping on the engine.
You are going to have to replace the transom. I replaced one 3 years ago on my dads fishing boat. His transom had the same gap as yours. It was from water getting in the wood and swelling it out. On my dad's boat it had marine putty around the top edge instead of aluminum like yours but when it got wet and swelled it broke it all lose. I also replaced the one on my boat 2 weeks ago. I just used 2x10 with threaded rods to keep them tight together. Not a real big job. No trouble to do it in a day.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy I just repaired mine with Coosa board, , It's expensive, but worth it in the long run, that's if you intend to keep the boat a long time.
Is the gap between the back and top of my transom normal? Do you have some good advice or a similar experience? Let me know in the comments! I ended up fabricating a new and much better transom cap for the boat which should get me through the season. Watch it here: th-cam.com/video/MveuOVrehu8/w-d-xo.html
That gap is not normal. It sould be sealed up. And not with a piece of aluminum but glasses in properly. Deffinetly someone had there fingers in it Jusy by looking at the wood it looks like it is likely rotted. Stand on the cavitation plate of the engine and bounce. It should have no flex. It may be good for a a season or two. Just depends. But how much trust do you put in it knowing it is structurally flawed. Using epoxy resin, thayll be about a 600 dollar job. 225 for wood, 150 for epoxy. And the rest in fiberglass, gel coat, supply's and other nessisarys
If you take a ball ping hammer and just lightly tap on the transom itll make a sharp pinging sound if the transom is good. If it's not good or rotted it will make a dull thud sound.
Neat idea! I am going to try your technique at the end of the season. I imagine I'll get a little of both on my transom!
Trust me it works...boat builders have been using that technique for years in or to find rot in a transom
Thanks
Love watching your content. Subscribed right away. You have talked about seat mounts and your new wooden skiff project looks great but i havent seen anything about transom savers/totes(transit supprts). I know you dont trailer far and now are mostly small engine, but you do your research and through your boating journey have learned alot. I, being new to the boat owner world would appriciate your input. Could a saver maybe help prevent this kind of rotted transom? I just got a new to me trihull and youtube and your content has been helpfull in bring it back to life
If you have a small 1 inch crack above transom where is it worth worrying about?
How did everything turn out? Did you end up having to replace or is it still going string ?
It got me through another season and I disclosed EVERYTHING to the next owner, but they only used it once, and ultimately sold it and I have no idea where the boat is now.
Educational, Thank you
Dark and damp = Bad. Any wood in contact with wet wood will dry rot. I'm in the middle of a complete rebuild on a VIP Baystealth, literally every piece of wood on the boat was dust or soggy.
Yeah it just works it’s way through once it gets going.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy Thanks for posting the videos and sharing !
Stand on the engine and jump. A little nudge is not enough. Its a 150kg, 90hp engine on the back of a boat that is going to jump through the air at 30-40 mph and land flat on the water with a vengeance. The transom should take a good beating, jump on the motor a little bit and it shouldnt flex.
I would think that an additional 200 lbs. (92 Kg) of weight jumping on an engine would definitely break something that I don't want broken! A knowledgeable friend and I pushed and pulled pretty hard on the engine and moved the whole boat but the transom didn't budge. At the moment I trust it for the 20 or so more rides we plan to take this summer. But I am checking it regularly as well.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy It will take it just fine. Imagine the torque it handles when the boat jumps. Its much more than an extra 90kg. But you're probably alright, it looks fine. Just saying, that is a surefire way to test, done it tons of times, heck thats that way I get up on the boat, by stepping on the engine.
@@CptAJbannedwhat about an extra 350 pounds
You are going to have to replace the transom. I replaced one 3 years ago on my dads fishing boat. His transom had the same gap as yours. It was from water getting in the wood and swelling it out. On my dad's boat it had marine putty around the top edge instead of aluminum like yours but when it got wet and swelled it broke it all lose. I also replaced the one on my boat 2 weeks ago. I just used 2x10 with threaded rods to keep them tight together. Not a real big job. No trouble to do it in a day.
Yeah I agree - and I will feel much better knowing there's a new transom on there! Thanks for watching!!!
@@WayneTheBoatGuy I just repaired mine with Coosa board, , It's expensive, but worth it in the long run, that's if you intend to keep the boat a long time.
A dead blow hammer tap the transom if you hear a thud it’s bad
Can't test motor now because transom is damaged by ramp driver.
Can't sell boat cause the transom damaged .waaaah lol
Hopefully it's repairable!
@@johnwinnerdz1 these are all problems that will not get fixed focusing on how you cannot. I bet you probably are capable of more then you think.
Lol why did I watch this again
Is the gap between the back and top of my transom normal? Do you have some good advice or a similar experience? Let me know in the comments!
I ended up fabricating a new and much better transom cap for the boat which should get me through the season.
Watch it here: th-cam.com/video/MveuOVrehu8/w-d-xo.html
Wayne the boat guy doesn't know about transoms?
That is correct. I only started boating a few years ago, I'm no expert - I'm learning as I go.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy Ok so you're Wayne the learning about boats guy. I like it. Enjoy the journey brother.
That gap is not normal. It sould be sealed up. And not with a piece of aluminum but glasses in properly. Deffinetly someone had there fingers in it
Jusy by looking at the wood it looks like it is likely rotted.
Stand on the cavitation plate of the engine and bounce. It should have no flex.
It may be good for a a season or two. Just depends. But how much trust do you put in it knowing it is structurally flawed.
Using epoxy resin, thayll be about a 600 dollar job. 225 for wood, 150 for epoxy. And the rest in fiberglass, gel coat, supply's and other nessisarys
Yeah I was thinking it might be do-able for under $1,000. Really thinking it’s going to be a fall project if I am keeping the boat after this season.
One year later the same lumber cost 5 times as much.
Your transom is Shot, cut it out and redo the whole thing
It made it though the season!
That does not look good buddy.
It wasn't! lol
That transom is shot
It did get me through another season though!
Mine is insanely flexible.