Lawn mower Stops after few minutes, when HOT - This is Why!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2022
- *VISUALLY EXPLAINED
So, whether you are using a Riding lawn mower, Push mower, Petrol lawnmower or even an electric lawn mower, this principle is valid. Also true whether your mower has either a 4 Stroke Engine or a 2 Stroke Engine. The Robot Lawn mower doesn't escape this principle either!
If you are having problems starting your lawnmower then please do take look at my other video, where I help you get back you and running again if your Lawn mower Won't Start: • Lawn Mower Will Not St...
Your lawnmower Stops when it's HOT because you may have internal issues with the Ignition Coil. This video will show you why and give you some useful tips to prevent further problems.
FREE DOWNLOAD CHECKLIST HERE: www.therepairspecialistonline...
An important part of the Lawn mower Ignition Coil is the Induction Coil and it's thermal insulation within the Coil Pack Unit. Usually, if a lawnmower develops a problem where it will start and run when Cold, but Stops when HOT, then can it indicate damage to the insulation and the induction coil.
This can apply to all makes and models of petrol gasoline lawn mowers. Such as: Briggs and Stratton, Viking, Honda, Toro, Troy Bilt, Greenworks, Ego, Husqvarna, John Deere, Crafstsman, Cub Cadet, Snapper and so on......
KEY MOMENTS
Disclaimers for this video: 01:38 and 10:16
My objectives of this video: 02:15
Intro to Lawnmower Stops after Few Minutes: 00:01
FREE Download for Ignition Coil Care Checklist: 01:15
Anatomy of the Induction Coil: 02:38
How the Lawnmower Ignition Coil Creates Electricity: 03:56
What causes Ignition Coils to go bad: 06:47
Why Lawn mower stops after a few minutes when HOT: 08:54
How Coil Insulation can degrade making Coil Bad: 09:04
Two main types of Ignition Coil Insulation Damage: 09:10
How Current is Lost from Induction Coil: 09:16
How an Induction Coil loses current due to heat: 09:25
Causes of Ignition Induction Coil Insulation Damage: 10:34
How the Operator Causes Damage to the Lawn mower Ignition Coil: 11:50
How an Incorrect Spark Plug causes Ignition Coil Damage: 11:55
How the Spark plug GAP causes Ignition Coil Damage: 12:26
How Ignition Coil's H/T Lead Wire causes Induction Coil Damage: 12:48
How Spark plug Cap causes Ignition Coil Damage: 13:04
How Testing a Spark plug can cause Ignition Coil Damage: 13:30
How Lawnmower Cutting Blade and bent Cranckshaft can cause ignition Coil Damage: 13:50
How manufacturer of Coils can cause Ignition Coil Damage: 14:20
Have a Great Day
Craig Kirkman (Owner and Creator of The Repair Specialist Channel)
#LawnMowerProblems #IgnitionCoil #MowerMaintenance #LawnMowerRepair #EngineTroubleshooting #LawnMowerIssues #MowerIgnition #EngineRepair #DIYMaintenance #LawnMowerPerformance #LawnCare #LawnMowerTips #PetrolMower #ElectricMower #RobotMower #EngineInsulation #CoilDamage #MowerCoil #MowerTroubleshooting #EngineIssues #IgnitionSystem - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Hi guys I just wanted to Introduce to you my other Channel "Kirkman's Academy" - which i'm just getting started. It's a go-to channel for simple explanations for hard to grasp subjects such as physics, maths and chemistry etc. Here is the link: www.youtube.com/@kirkmansacademy/videos . Thank you so much for looking, and if these topics interest you then I hope to see you the there. Many thanks indeed. Craig 😊👍
I found this TH-cam video after having my reliable Honda mower crap out on me AFTER the motor got warmed up. It wouldn't restart until the motor cooled, then it would again crank right up and run fine for a few more minutes, then conk out again, frustrating! But why? My question was perfectly answered at the end of the video: vibration from a bent crankshaft. I had done exactly this when the mower went over a little edge of concrete in my yard. Out of necessity I continued to use it for over a month, even though I noticed the vibration and figured I had bent the shaft.
The shaft got fixed at considerable expense, but then the quitting. Now I see why, and fortunately a new coil is available and will be delivered tomorrow. Another YT vid detailed the coil replacement procedure for my exact mower, what luck!
This was the only video I found diagnosing the problem, thanks!!
Hi
thank you for sharing your experience and the solution you found for your Honda lawnmower's issue of stalling when hot due to a bent crankshaft.
It's great to hear that you were able to identify the root cause of the problem after noticing vibrations following an incident where the mower went over a concrete edge. The diagnosis of a bent crankshaft causing the stalling issue when the engine warmed up makes a lot of sense in this context.
I'm glad that the video you watched provided you with the necessary information to pinpoint the issue and take the appropriate steps to resolve it. It's always frustrating when equipment malfunctions, but it's empowering to be able to diagnose and fix the problem yourself with the help of valuable resources like TH-cam tutorials.
Replacing the coil as detailed in another video should hopefully address the stalling issue, allowing your Honda mower to run smoothly again. It's great to see how online resources can be so helpful in solving specific equipment-related problems.
Thank you for sharing your story and for being part of our community. If you have more questions or need further assistance in the future, feel free to reach out. We're here to help!
Best regards,
Craig
Excellent explanation, love it Thanks
Great video very detailed. I found out if the mower is running low on oil it will run a lot hotter and that will ruin the coil too. Always check the oil because some engines will burn or leak some oil
HI Thank you for your nice feedback. I really appreciate it. And, Yes. Absolutely. Great advice. I should have mentioned low oil in the video. Thanks again. Craig👍
This channel has unmatched content, of excellence. I am an amateur in these subjects and I am glad to find your videos. There are no channels in Spanish with such a good explanation and didactic. The language complicates me a bit but it is still very useful for me. Thank you very much and sorry for my English. greetings from Argentina !!!
Wow, thank you!. I really appreciate your comment. Craig 👍👍👍👍👍
I did already know this but…
You explained this EXCEPTIONALITY WELL.
I happened across your channel looking for a different issue.
I will be subscribing and referring your channel.
Thank you.
Awesome. Thank you 👍
Had this problem with a brand new pressure washer, thank you very much sir.
Excellent in many great ways. Thank you
Great Job and detail. Thanks for all your hard work on these excellent videos.
Thank you for your nice comment. I love your channel and it is growing fast. Great content you have. I love the American accent as well. Sounds like maybe Dallas?. Sorry if i'm wrong. Thanks a lot. Craig
@@TheRepairSpecialist you're welcome my friend. Thanks so much for watching our channel. We are in South Carolina
Very helpful video. Thank you!
Your governor vid is a masterpiece. I have this problem you describe. 2017 Honda GCV160 engine. Runs fine, then once it gets hot, dies. After cooling a minute, it will start right up and run a few more minutes. Also, especially it will die going up slight grade(it's self-propelled) or in high grass but strangely will also die (sometimes) on nearly bare ground sitting still and not even mowing-so it dies under an enhanced load and also sometimes not. Regular oil changes. Never used gasahol. I cleaned tank and filter as clean as a whistle. Didn't help. Replaced carb, auto choke, gaskets with new Honda parts. Needed new carb anyway because plug was heavily sooted and was drinking gas. Still would die as before, sometimes after 15 minutes and sometimes after a couple of minutes. When it starts to struggle I can sometimes get it temporarily running fine by gently fiddling with governor rod and arm and speed control lever. Due to the fact that once it warmed up from being hours long cold, I begin to get a random miss and then it soon stops, I suspected a bad coil that gets heat-soaked so I replaced it with new Honda part and air-gapped within recommended range. Cleaned plug and checked gap. Mower now runs better overall, solid and strong like new and then...random missed and died again after a few minutes just like before. So disappointing. Started it up again, and when it started to struggle, I wiggled the governor arm like I have done many times and can usually get it to recover when it starts to struggle and try to die. While doing this I moved governor arm back and/or the speed control lever farther this time than I ever did and it recovered and ran and continued to. Amazingly to me I finished back yard and did all front yard, running at same proper RPM as always-never died again. I am suspecting governor problems and I may have freed something up this last time I forced it back. I seems to run fine and at proper RPM when running so the RPM adjustment is not off, it just will die for no reason. New governor is cheap to buy ($6US)(or could be cleaned of gook) but it is inside crankcase so a tough job. Could the seal where governor shaft exits the crankcase be binding the shaft, or could the nylon governor gear inside have a broken tooth, or the weights mechanism binding? Do you have any ideas?
Excellent detail and illustrations as always. Much appreciated! Replacing a coil on a customer's Stihl weed eater this weekend due to it suddenly shutting off when hot. Told them I suspect the coil.
Thank you for your nice feedback. I really appreciate it . Yes, in my opinion you were spot on to suspect that. Thanks again. Craig 👍
Well done professor!
Thank you Sir 👍
Yo yo thanks for the information.. as always very professional.. have a good weekend mate
Hi mate. Thanks you for your nice comment. I hope dad and son are both well indeed. Hope he liked his new school. Thanks again mate. Craig
Awesome visuals !
Well done, thank you for that.
🖖😎
Thank you. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍
Thank you so much. I'm new at it all and was wondering exactly how the coil works. Your video is very informative.
Thank you for your nice feedback. I really appreciate it. Craig
Great explanation thanks!
Thank you. I hope you are doing well Ken. I love your channel by the way. Thanks. Craig 👍
phenomenal quality thank you!!!!
You're welcome!
Thanks you helped me determine and find out one of the problems on my lawm mower Nice video TRS
Awesome. Thank you for letting me know
My neighbor is havng this problem with their Husqvarna tht has a B&S engine. Going to send this to them and try replacing the Ignition Coil for them....They have only had the mower for couple years and have it serviced every year by a very reputal lawn mower shop in nashville but they dont seem to be much help for them since they are a commercial client......This was a very informative video especially the vibration part that can cause issues. They do cut their lawn way to short. I will check for vibrations when I get it
¡Muchas gracias por un video tan brillante!
Gracias por tu agradable comentario. Realmente lo aprecio. Craig 👍
Great video….Craig for président!!!
Wow. Thank you Sir 👍👍👍👍
Brilliant!
Thank you 👍👍👍
Debris build-up in the cooling fins will cause an Ignition Coil to fail. Due to the engine overheating.
Good point 👍
subscribed
I have imagined that the trigger coil could get shorted, go open, or grounded when the assembly heats up. Thanks for your work on this problem.
I would imagine that is quite possible. Thanks. Craig
My bring and Stratton y use 45 minutes and shut down y put new coil and doing the same , y put new spark plugs and rebuild carburetor and steel shut down 30 to 45 minutes later
and in English ?
Hi. In light of what work has been done so far, it is difficult for me to diagnose without being hands on with it. I did hear of a colleague in the trade mention that he had a small mower like this do the same as you experienced. You wouldn't believe what the cause was and I'm NOT saying it is the case for your engine, but here goes.
He had done just about everything to the engine for fix it. But he didn't realize until later that his engine (again NOT saying this is the case with you and I don't want to seem as if i'm talking down to your situation or anything), but he had very little oil in the engine. All we can think was happening was, Instead of the engine seizing, it seemed to be over heating and the internal components (Big End Bearing etc) expanded enough to grip the Crankshaft main journal, and cause enough friction to stop the engine. When it had cooled with cold contraction, it freed up enough to start again.
Again, i'm not saying this is your case at all. just a thought. Especially as you have already tried the other stuff already.
I hope this somehow helps a little.
I am having exactly the same problem you describe in this youtube vidio. Have chinged the coil but still have the same fault. Can you think what else can cause this problem
I have been fixing a JD 14sb with a kawasaki fc150v engine, it was just shutting off every time it got hot. It seemed electrical but there was always a spark. I replaced the coil but thevproblem was still there. It turned out it was a small electrical part called the igniter on the side of the engine which controls the timing of the spark. Took me a long time to isolate this fault. Hadn't come across this part before, thought the timing of the spark was simply controlled by the flywheel magnet passing the coil.
Hey, great job on troubleshooting and finding the solution for your JD 14sb with the Kawasaki FC150V engine! It can be quite frustrating when you're dealing with engine issues, but it's fantastic that you persevered and discovered the problem.
The part you mentioned, the igniter, is indeed a critical component when it comes to controlling the timing of the spark in some small engines. It's not uncommon for people to assume that the flywheel magnet passing the coil is solely responsible for spark timing, but more advanced engines often incorporate additional components like the igniter to fine-tune the ignition process.
Your experience is a valuable lesson for anyone working on small engines, as it highlights the importance of considering all possible components that could be causing an issue, even when there's a spark present.
Thanks for sharing your experience with us. It's these kinds of real-world troubleshooting stories that can be incredibly helpful for others facing similar problems. If you have any more insights or questions about small engine repair, feel free to ask!
Craig
I like your video, but the solution to my new generator engine always stopping after a few minutes was simply that the fuel cap wasn't venting. I loosened it and the engine didn't stop.
Oh, thank you for letting me know. Yes, the fuel tank can build up negative pressures when the engine is running and fuel is leaving the tank. If the fuel cap is not venting then this pressure can prevent fuel from leaving the tank to the engine, and therefore, the engine is starved of fuel. Thanks for letting me know. 👍
I think this is happening to my 2017 Self propelled MTD 5X65MU motor mower in Florida, use, heat and humidity. Ordered a new coil.
I love the detailed explanations! My toro riding mower doesn’t completely die when it gets hot but it does start to run rough. Like it’s misfiring. Always runs perfect when cold. Could this be a coil issue or would the engine definitely just stop running.
Yes you have hit on a very good point there, and you have made me realize I should have mentioned it in the video.
The coils don't always just stop when they have the issues shown in the video. They do indeed do what you have said, especially in the early days of their failings. They can first start to misfire and show running inefficiencies.
They can either stay this way, or usually they progress to shutting down when hot.
Thank you for your awesome feedback, and being a valued subscriber for the last three weeks. Craig 👍👍👍
So is the fix a new coil then or a new mower?
I have a mower that will run fine for hours. Once i stsrt pishing it for about 10 minutes it shuts off and wont start. After about 10 minutes it will restart but then it does the same thing. As long as it sits still it wilp run until out of gas. Have any ideas about this problem
i replaced my ignition coil and spark plug and cleaned out the carburetor with carb cleaner (fully disassembled and reassembled) several times, cleaned the gas tank, the hose, and my m110 mower STILL stops after using it for a while. it's driving me insane i have no idea what the issue could be
I got a question for you
Great video, first time seeing you. I have a quick question, everything you explained made sense. I think my situation with my power washer is also a coil issue. It starts, with one pull, and runs great, but when the engine is hot it will not restart. But it'll never lose power, run rough nor will it stall out while running. Why would the engine not short out if the coil is bad or going bad? Would the "regulator" you mentioned be able to compensate the any shorts or breakdown of the coil while running? It restarts when cold.
First of all thank you for your very kind feedback, i really appreciate it. Here is another vid of mine that explains a little more about what you might want answering. Take a look and see if it helps: th-cam.com/video/lEYO7hNTeR0/w-d-xo.html
Let me know how it goes
Thanks again
Craig
Thank you for the link, I watched, The Theory makes all the sense in the world to me. But, I'm still not sure why my engine will continuously run even when hot. If I refill the gas while on low idil it'll run for hours. If it runs out of gas after say after the first tank it'll never start till it cools down, I usually give up and wait til the next morning.
I have the same problem. Replaced the coil with a brand new one, but it still keeps cutting out. If anyone knows, please share!
Here’s a problem for ya, so I have a twin cylinder Briggs and Stratton, trying to get it running, we test for spark, (engage starter and spin the engine over checking for spark) we find out we DO have spark, we stop the starter, we plug the plugs back into the engine, spray some starting fluid to fire it for a second, nothing, we take plugs back out and we have lost the spark, in both cylinders. Wait 5 minutes that spark comes back. So in conclusion, we had spark, then tested to start it but we lost spark but came back after 5 min of nothing
I had this problem last year that when the engine would get hot, it would stall and also generate no spark. Replacing the coil fixed the spark issue, but not the stall issue when hot. What I discovered is that my fuel tank cap vent was plugged and the fuel tank would get an induced vacuum. Loosening the cap alleviated that problem until recently, manifesting itself as a lack of fuel issue again. When it would stall, I noted that the fuel in my fuel filter housing would push back into the tank. My fuel line was designed to pass over one of the two cylinder heads/jugs on its way to the carburetor. I have heard of fuel line vapor lock, but not sure if it's for real. Today, the debris screen was too hot to touch. My cooling fins on the heads and jugs are clear, and the flywheel fins are completely in tact. I see no obstructions, but it seems not to be cooling as I think it should be. Will this lead to premature coil failure and/or fuel line vapor lock? I'm at wits end with this B&S 16Hp IC engine! Sorry for being so long, but this is a complex issue!
I am having the same issue with my riding lawn mower, stalls out after use and I replaced the coil and there is spark but it still dies out. Still struggling with this
Every time this symptom has occurred with my machines, its been the ECU. Also water doesn't lead electricity, it's the pollution in the water that does that.
Yes pure water is in fact a very good insulator, rather than a conductor. However, because there is NO pure water in nature, I referred to water being a conductor. This lets people know that when they see water around the coil they don’t actually need to start wondering if it is pure, or not. Too much none required information. Therefore, as NO water is pure in nature, then any water seen in around the coil is going to be a conductor rather than an insulator. I’m sure you would not argue with this point If you were wet, and in some sort of contact with electrical outlets. The subject of pure, and none pure water, would not be on one’s mind!!!!
These small lawnmower ignition coils don’t have the same type of ECU system as does a Car, where the ECU has control over the fuel lines as well. These small flywheel magnet driven ignition coils have their own system that regulates sparking and large fluctuations in electrical current, but there structured and function differ.
ECU’s are typically used in automobiles and are part of a system that require a battery power to create the electron flow for the coil to generate its electromagnetic field. Our small lawnmower ignition coil does, in fact, use a fixed magnet for the current. There is no system in this lawnmower coil that is the exactly the same as the one represented in the automobile system. I think you were confused!!!
@@TheRepairSpecialist - Nop, I know my engines and electrical stuff quite well... but since you have coils on other stuff, like mc/car/quad bike, i just wanted to meantion that the problem sometimes is the ECU (of course on stuff that uses an ECU). This in case someone watched this video since they had this problem and couldn't find a video for their spesific vehicle. But good video. Thank you sir.
I had a lawn mower that started every time on first pull or second pull. Pushing it on the side walk it ran perfectly. Sa soon as I pushed it through the grass, it died. Was this a sheared key or a coil problem? It wouldn't take the slightest load.
I have the same issue with my wife 😂
QUESTION: At the start of the year, my Cub Cadet SC300HW self-propelled mower bought in 2020 sounded like it was skipping a few beats. I then bought some Gumout and put it in the gas. This seemed to severely hurt fuel efficiency and caused other problems. For example, the mower would stop cutting all by itself as if it were out of fuel, even though 25% of the gasoline still remained in the tank. The mower also was clearly slipping beats and didn't sound right. The mower eventually reached a point where it shut off and clearly was severely defective. The mower would always start on the first pull, but never remain on for more than 20 seconds.
At that point in time I had a friend come over and look at it. This buddy of mine did all the standard checks. He confirmed the oil was good and that there was plenty of gas. He confirmed the sparkplug was good. And he confirmed the air filter was good. Those did not have anything to do with the problem.
This friend of mine then looked at the carburetor. He took it apart and there was nothing wrong with it. While he took it apart, he clamped the gas line to the carburetor. Some of the gas spilled out onto the mower. The carburetor then was put back together and the gas line connected again. After that, the mower worked (or so I thought). I told this same story to people online. I was told that what likely happened was the Gumout cleaned out the gas tank, and when the gas line was disconnected from the carburetor, it finally allowed the gunk to have somewhere to drain out. But, this ended up not being the case.
When I finally had the opportunity to mow the entire yard, the mower only rank for 90 minutes. After that, the mower would again start on the first pull, but never run for more than 20 seconds.
I then hired a small engine repair specialist to fix the mower. This man said the Thermostat was the problem. He said the Thermostat was "Automatic" and it was reading the temperature wrong and causing the Choke to turn off, which turned the mower off.
This man said he ran two tanks of gas through it, so there is no doubt it would not shut off from overheating. However, this was done with the mower sitting in the same spot on a cement surface.
When I first saw the mower, it started within two pulls, but it was started on my driveway - which provided no resistance. Today, I went out to mow the yard for the first time since having the mower back. I tried starting the mower in the grass - in a relatively short area of grass. It took SIX PULLS to start the mower. I'm a big guy 6' 3" tall and over 300 pounds. I was pulling as hard as I could and I was concerned the mower was not going to start. Eventually it did start, but I really didn't like it that the mower took six pulls to start.
After the mower started, it didn't take long to hear the mower was still skipping beats every once in a while. It was clearly not "smooth" like it was the three previous years I owned it.
The mower ran for about 70 minutes. I had noticed the mower was starting to get hot. This was what had happened when the mower eventually stopped at 90 minutes. At one point there was a “visible” form of heat I could see. Unfortunately at about 70 minutes I had a health problem (long story). I needed to stop mowing for about an hour. This allowed the mower to cool down again. When I came back, the mower again took SIX PULLS to start! It was not like that prior to taking the mower to the small engine repair specialist.
I then went and mowed a very long part of the yard that had grown while the mower was being repaired. I did this for about an hour. During that time period, the long grass caused the mower to stop mowing several times. I no longer could mulch, so I switched to the device that shoots the grass out the side. Even with that tool, the mower would still stop sometimes. But, the interesting thing was that the mower would no longer need to take six pulls to be restarted. Now, it would take only two pulls and sometimes one pull to be started. It was as if being hotter made the mower easier to start.
Unfortunately, I was not able to finish mowing the yard - which usually takes about four hours. It started raining out, even though there was only a 1% chance of rain for that time of day.
I told the small engine repair specialist all of this. He said the Gumout had nothing to do with anything. He also said nothing he did would change the number of times needed for the mower to start. I am personally not a believer in that second statement, because the mower always started on the first pull prior to giving it to him.
At this point, I have a couple concerns after having paid money to the "Small Engine Specialist." Those concerns are:
1. Why does the mower take six pulls to start when it is cold?
2. Why does the mower still sound like it is missing a beat sometimes and not smooth the way it did all season long and not like the first three years of its life? This makes me think another problem is inevitable
3. Do you believe the Ignition Coil could be the cause of this mower taking up to six pulls to start and still apparently generating lots of heat?
Oh my goodness. How long did it take you to write all of that? With such effort I feel I must give some back, so here it is.
It sounds like you've been through quite a journey with your Cub Cadet SC300HW self-propelled mower, and I can understand your concerns and frustrations. Based on the information you've provided, I'll address your questions and concerns one by one:
Difficulty Starting When Cold: The fact that your mower takes six pulls to start when it's cold could be indicative of a few issues. It's possible that there's an issue with the fuel system, such as a partially clogged fuel line or carburetor. It might also be related to the ignition system or spark plug. Additionally, the choke system could be malfunctioning, affecting the air-fuel mixture during cold starts. A qualified small engine technician should be able to diagnose and address this issue.
Mower Not Running Smoothly: If your mower is not running smoothly and seems to be missing a beat, it could be due to various factors. It might be related to the fuel quality, carburetor adjustments, or an issue with the ignition system, such as the spark plug or ignition coil. A thorough inspection by a professional could help pinpoint the exact cause of this problem.
Ignition Coil as a Possible Cause: The ignition coil could potentially be a contributing factor to starting difficulties and irregular engine operation. The ignition coil plays a crucial role in generating the spark required for combustion. If it's malfunctioning, it can lead to poor starting performance and engine misfires. However, it's essential to rule out other potential issues mentioned above before concluding that the ignition coil is the sole problem.
In summary, while the small engine repair specialist you hired has provided their assessment, it's possible that there are multiple factors contributing to the issues you're experiencing with your mower. Given the complexity of small engines, especially when symptoms are interconnected, it's advisable to consult with another experienced technician for a second opinion. They can perform a comprehensive diagnosis and recommend appropriate repairs or replacements to get your mower running smoothly and reliably again.
I hope this has helped a little
Craig
@@TheRepairSpecialist, thank you for taking the time to respond. It took me a long time to write that long message. It looks like you spent a long time responding to me, so I thank you for that. I would just mention some things quickly in response to what you wrote.
I've now had two people tell me the Sparkplug, Air Filter, Oil, and Gasoline are all fine. I was also told the Carburetor was fine by both people. And now the mower has a new Thermostat (which was very expensive to order).
The man did mention something about the "Choke." And based on your video, I thought the "Ignition Coil" thing might be a factor. But, at this point, I think the "Small Motor Specialist" who looked at the mower now has the attitude that he no longer can help me.
There is one "Official Cub Cadet" place about a half hour from my home. But they told me it usually costs between $90 to $120 for a repair. I paid $299 for the mower. I bought it simply because it was the least expensive mower.
My main problem is I'm disabled with epilepsy and cannot drive. It would be very difficult for me to get a ride to take the mower to that "Official Cub Cadet" location. Plus, their prices are very high. I'm on a fixed income from disability with epilepsy and I just cannot afford all of these repairs. The mower is only three years old. It was bought during the spring of 2020. I've never had a mower stop working in such a short amount of time.
This Cub Cadet mower actually has a "Three-Year Warranty." I tried mentioning this to the Tractor Supply store I bought it from at the start of the year when some of these problems happened. But I was told, "We no longer sell Cub Cadet mowers, so we can't help you."
It was unfortunately just outside the three-years from when the mower was purchased.
So, that is why I bought the Gumout. But the Gumout seemed to make the situation worse, as I described above. People had said, "Maybe the Gumout cleaned out the fuel lines, but it had nowhere to go. This is why disconnecting the fuel line to the carbureator and seeing some of the fuel spill helped it and allowed the mower to go for 90 more minutes before shutting off again." But, the Small Motor "Specialist" later told me, "Gumout had nothing to do with it; that was just a coincidence."
I'm not really sure what I'm going to do if this mower breaks. I don't have the money for another one. It takes nearly four hours to mow the yard. Everyone wants $60 or $70 every time to mow the yard. I just can't afford that amount of money. I have "Time" as a resource, but not "Money." This is why it is discouraging when the mower stops working. I was doing my best to invest the "Time," but the tool stopped working.
One reason in particular I'm not optimistic about taking the mower to the "Official Cub Cadet" place is because in 2019 the very last place I took my Snapper mower was to an "Official Sears" location that still remained around. I was told, "It works great and you are all set." I started it up and mowed for several minutes just to see, and saw things seemed fine. I dumped the gas and oil , and then cleaned out the bottom. I then put the mower away for the year.
But at the start of the spring of 2020, I only made it several laps around the yard and the Snapper Mower stopped working. It would start on the first pull, but never run. I was told it had a bad "Carburetor." I was told it would cost more to get a new Carburetor than a new mower, so that is why I bought the Cub Cadet mower. I kept the mower, just in case I ever heard otherwise about the Snapper mower.
I then saw online that a Carburetor for this Snapper mower was not expensive the way I was told. I bought one for only $14. This "Small Engine Specialist" who worked on my Cub Cadet mower also took the Snapper mower and the Carburetor I had bought. He put the new Carburetor on the Snapper mower. But he didn't charge me, because he was not able to get the Snapper mower to work.
The "Specialist" showed me there were two springs for the Snapper mower. But he said putting the second spring on made it so the mower would barely run. So he actually left the one spring off. Even in that scenario, it starts up on a flat surface with cement and is very weak. Once you go into the grass and encounter resistance, the mower is useless and has no power. So, he didn't charge me for that. I was charged for the Cub Cadet mower, though - even though it still take six pulls to start it. This was discouraging, because I was hoping for better results from a "Specialist."
But, I am now thinking if a "Specialist" and the Sears "Official" staff are telling me things work when in fact they don't, it causes me to not want to waste more money on this Cub Cadet mower at an "Official" Cub Cadet store.
I wish I had known about these problems earlier in the year, because it may have been covered by the Cub Cadet "Three-Year Warranty."
Your helps is very much appreciated. If you know anyone in Michigan near the Thumb Area, tell them they are free to come take a look at my mowers.
@@michaelzoranTRS certainly gave you some good responses. Given the number of mowers that I work on, fuel quality and fuel delivery issues are generally the primary issues. The ethanol in fuel is a nightmare on small engines, and even inside a gas can will deteriorate quicker than thought and even quicker in a mower tank or carb. I replace ignition coils on a couple units a year, but I would be surprised if it failed this quickly. Not to say it isn't failing, but wouldn't be my initial starting point. However, there are a couple quick checks you may be able to do yourself before taking it to another repair shop (FYI, an "Official" shop seems to be less useful in today's world than perhaps 50 years ago).
1. Check the air filter. Is it dirty or plugged up with grass? Does it feel or look damp like gas or oil could have saturated it? If you leave it out, does the mower start easier?
2. Check the choke flap. It is the one visible by the air filter base. Is it fully closed when the engine is cold? Does it fully open after a minute or two of the engine running?
3. Check the carburetor. On these machines, the main jet the fuel goes up, is inside the center of the carburetor. If you can easily remove the entire carb, you can do so, but you can also try this without taking the entire thing off. Drain the fuel, or clamp the hose first. Then remove the center bolt on the bottom of the carb - is it clean inside the bowl or do you see any dirt/flakes or jelly looking stuff? This can be hard to see as it requires some skill to drop the bowl without losing all the fuel and potential debris. Get some carb cleaner with a straw, and aim that straw up the center tube and spray it. If you have a torch tip cleaner or carburetor cleaning tips, push it up the inside. There's a nut inside that is the main pickup jet and they get plugged easily with debris or fuel that breaks down. Gumout will NOT clean that out in my experience.
At 4 hours to cut the lawn, you'll want to make sure oil is changed roughly every 8-10 cuts and the blade is sharpened about as often. A dull blade can contribute to running issues as well. If you're able to do those 3 checks (I would do them in that order), let me know what you find. I'm happy to do a couple emails, which will allow for pictures, etc, if needed to try to help out and try to save the hassle and expense of going to another repair shop.
Have a 18 HP riding mower you can cut grass all day, just don't shut it off,no start till it cools off,
Can one see sparks from a faulty coil in the dark??
Sometimes, but not always. This is because the damage may be internal behind the insulation and so sparks would be hidden
I’ve replaced my magneto, and I still have this issue
Well, if you have replaced the coil with no results, then I would suggest using the following as a guide:
When it gets hot, a lawnmower could stop for a few different reasons:
Vapour Lock: This situation, in which the fuel in the carburetor evaporates and creates a vapour barrier that stops the flow of fuel, is one scenario. This can occur if the engine overheats and the lawnmower stalls. This problem can be fixed by letting the engine cool.
Fuel System Issues: When the engine gets hot, problems with the fuel system, including a clogged fuel filter or a broken fuel pump, can cause the engine to stall. This problem might be fixed by cleaning or changing the fuel filter and ensuring proper fuel flow.
Overheating: Lawnmowers may overheat due to insufficient airflow or cooling. If the cooling fins are clogged with debris, the engine may become excessively hot and shut down as a safety measure. Cleaning the cooling fins and ensuring proper airflow can help prevent overheating.
Problems with the carburetor might lead to the engine stalling when it becomes heated. The fuel-air mixture might be disturbed by problems like a stuck float or a filthy carburetor, which can result in engine shutdown. To solve this problem, the carburetor may need to be cleaned or rebuilt.
If you are still unsure about this then I would suggest that you visit a professional technician or take your lawnmower to a servicing facility if it constantly stops when it becomes heated. To ensure appropriate repair and dependable operation, they can carry out a comprehensive check and identify the precise cause of the issue.
I hope this helps
Craig
@@TheRepairSpecialist thank you for the detailed response. I believe it’s fuel, so I have narrowed down to the seat. I’m going to tear the carb down again, and replace the seat. Hope it works. Not worth as much as the time and parts, but I’m stubborn, and don’t want to give up
MAYBE IS TRUE MAYBE IS NOT. A LOT OF THEORY, EXPLICATIONS, ETC. MEANS THAT THE COIL IS MADE BAD, BAD ISOLATIONS, CHEAP ITEM, ETC. I ask; why the coil neds a primary. Maybe the transfo theory we can change. Generally, the theory says: a mobile magnet, who mets a coil with/without iron, will create a voltage finally. function of the number of the wires. The stop of the high voltage coil to spark plug will be the flywheel brake. Means, we can keep only the coil secondary and the coil iron and the job is done.
Fair enough. Thank you for your comment and contribution. Craig