Love the video, just a couple things you might also look out for doing CV shafts on these cars. The alignment of where the two bolts from the strut tower line up (11:26) needs to be VERY close to the same as before or you front end alignment and steering wheel centering may be off. I did hub assemblies and CV shafts on both sides on my 99' Olds 88 and found this out the hard way. I didn't mark anything , swapped the CV shafts, cleaned all the parts, painted them, and THEN noticed that it seem to have some adjustment at that connection point. So I just "eyeballed" it. My front end alignment was great before, and now my steering wheel was slightly off center and a tire was wearing out fast on the inside edge. $50 alignment later with the tire shop's confirmation of my screw up and I was good to go. Second thing, an maybe it was just me again, the drivers side CV wouldn't clear until I popped the tie rod off the bottom of the steering knuckle for a bit more room to swing it back. Hope this helps, thanks for the great video!
This video showed up on my recommended list and I know I’ve watched it before but I figured what the heck I’ll watch a TDM video twice lol. Of course, great video Mike!
I watched your video prior to replacing a CV axle on my 2002 Century. I followed your steps exactly and it went well except it was the drivers side and I had a hard time getting the axle away from the trans because of the "C" clip. Then months later... (today) I went to replace the passenger side and I wanted to see if it was possible to pull the axle without removing the strut. I didn't remove any of the brake components and even left the rotor attached to the hub. I did put the lugs nuts back onto the studs to keep things contained and it provided something solid to hang on to when pulling the hub assembly down. Once I loosened both strut bolts and removed only the top bolt from the strut, this time I made an axle puller that used a slide hammer (worked great). Then I was able to pull the hub assembly out and down enough to get the axle out and away from the trans and then ran it back up into the engine bay enough to remove the hub end of the axle. No cussing required. Thanks again for posting this information.
There are many videos out there showing this particular procedure. don't be afraid to check out some of the other videos on youtube on how it is done. Thanks for watching!
I enjoyed your video. It was very easy to follow and understand. You seem to know what you are talking about, and your personality comes across as freindly and helpful. That's nice because so many 'tutorial' style videos have no personality at all. The one thing that I would have liked to hear would be: how do you recognize when a part has failed? Does it make specific type of noise, or do you feel something unusual when you are driving? etc. I have subscribed to your channel and I'm looking forward to viewing more of your videos. Thanks again!
Signs of a bad CV axle are typically vibration/shaking that's worse if you have a passenger, a popping sound when you turn tight with the steering fully locked, greasy deposits on the boots, and tears on the boot.
Holy crap a genuine part replaced by the one and the only Eric O. Man that thing is priceless. If I were you I would mount it, and have a little spot light shine on it. I am not rich but I could try and send ya a bottle of Quebec beer. I think it is rated at 14%. One bottle will do ya. lol great video buddy. Say hi to your beautiful wife. -John
I have a 06 Buick lucerne, I just did this CV axle and bearing assembly today. 1. Remove wheel 2. Remove caliper (13mm) 3. Remove caliper bracket (15mm) 4. Remove rotor (may have torx screw from manufacturer) 5. Remove Axle nut (34mm... impact or cheater bar required) 6. Remove hub assembly (13 mm) 3 bolts behind hub. 7. Use 2nd Jack under lower control arm to relieve stress to the ball joints and tie rods . 8. Remove the rods and strut from steering knuckle 9. Remove knuckle 10. Pull CV axle put ( from the shaft with vigour) 11. Reverse the steps and drive with care for the first 100 miles Note: PB blaster helps , soak the rusted nuts for 30 min with said PB Blaster. Do not use WD-40 , it evaporates too quickly
You don't have to remove the brake caliper all you do is take off the axle nut take,off the 2 bolts that hold the suspension and take off the crown bolt to your lower control arm
I hope you're still on here. I have a 05 Buick Lacrosse, I've been having trouble with the axle popping out of the differential. It measures up perfectly with the old axle. What would your input be on what's causing this?
LOL!!!! That idler is going to go for a lot of money 💰!! Great video brother I use to do shafts that way but it puts to much strain on the flex hose!!! I remove the ball joint and pry down on the control arm! But what ever works for you is the best way I guess 👍🏻👍🏻 Cheers 🍻
I've done plenty too Ange and I always go for the easiest way and that could be either but then again the cars I work on aren't exactly like yours...Most of our FWD's are Japanese or European and such.
Either way looks far too easy compared to the VW/Audi stuff. Where are all the bolts holding the inner CV and why aren't the outer joints bonded in just to ruin your day?? Great wok Mike
Oh yeah baby, I don't miss a minute. That's funny that you kept the idler from Eric. He's a TH-cam super star so you might actually make out pretty good on the bids. Good luck!
Like the video. Can you try to be more specific on the size bolts you are removing and the torque #'s. Other then that great video and love the jump box too. I have the same one
I replaced my cv's on my 00 lesabre and it popped out 2 days later, leaving me stranded. The splines were all chewed up so I switched it for another new one. Had to hammer it into the transaxle . made it to the corner and the second one popped out. Could use your help with any ideas. Thanks
Thanks for the video! Gonna need to do this to our '95 Riviera soon, do you have any suggestions on CV axle brands and/or where to buy? Also, do you have suggestions on brands to stay away from?
@@edwardharmon3597 I haven't even changed them yet, this car is nickel and dimming us to death, too many things started to go wrong so I've been debating on selling it. I have my late father's GMC Safari now so I don't drive the Riviera that much these days.
Remanufactured anything is total crap . I've had good luck with napa . Anything that has the boot clamps that you squeeze works good . Anything that has the boot clamps that you fold back over onto itself....total junk
Hey, I hope all is well. It's been awhile but I was able to replace my cv axle on the passenger side but the one on the driver side doesn't have the space the other side has to get in there and free it. Do you have any suggestions on what I could do? Thank you again!
What symptoms was the car having for you to replace the CV axel? My 2000 regal shakes when I give it gas at about 45mph do u think this could be the problem?
Thank you for the link. I don't hear a clicking noise just a pretty bad shake. Might have my local mechanic look at it and see what he thinks. Thanks again. Very helpful.
@@mr.gimmieareason628 sorry but it has hard to diagnose without actually inspecting the vehicle. A tire out of balance will cause a shake or bad wheel bearing if it is bad enough.
I replaced my cv Axel and all the transmission oil ended up coming out. Could it be it didnt snap all the way in or the i need a new seal at the transmission?
Ha ! I am having the same problem right now. Just replaced axles both sides, passenger side started leaking, so I pulled the axle back out, replaced the seal and it was still leaking. So I measured the old shaft and new shaft in the car, and found that the new shaft is not in far enough, so going to have to tap it in further, but I believe that is my problem. Check the old axle to the new axle placement and make sure the new one is in just as far as the old axle was, otherwise you may be going through a lot of oil as I have, good luck.
I would check the service manual for your vehicle to see if the procedure is the same for your car. I mark the strut/knuckle to try to get them back in the same place to keep alignment as close as possible but it may be advisable to get it realigned since it may only be close.
Not saying this is wrong but to avoid doing a wheel alignment after disconnect balljoint on lower arm and sometimes the tierod as well instead of the strut bolts thats what the manual calls for
Hey man, how do you like that cordless Milwaukee impact? I'm thinking about getting one for work. I'd like to avoid buying one from my snap on dealer, lol. Great video, thanks for the entertainment.
Actually I bought this off the Snap on truck. my dealer talked me into this instead of a Snap on! i love it and would buy the same one again! The fork truck mechanic that does major work on our trucks has the Milwaukee and loves it. The Milwaukee took of nuts my work IR battery impact would not.
I have seen more problems with defective CV axles rebuilt and new then any other part on the car and that is not a part you want to go out on a road trip.
Hey Mike, my name is Manny and I'm trying to reach out to you for help with my Buick centery. I've tried everyone I know to try and find out what's wrong with my car because I don't have money for a mechanic. If you get this and have time will you reach out to me please I would REALLY appreciate it. Thanks
Love the video, just a couple things you might also look out for doing CV shafts on these cars. The alignment of where the two bolts from the strut tower line up (11:26) needs to be VERY close to the same as before or you front end alignment and steering wheel centering may be off. I did hub assemblies and CV shafts on both sides on my 99' Olds 88 and found this out the hard way. I didn't mark anything , swapped the CV shafts, cleaned all the parts, painted them, and THEN noticed that it seem to have some adjustment at that connection point. So I just "eyeballed" it. My front end alignment was great before, and now my steering wheel was slightly off center and a tire was wearing out fast on the inside edge. $50 alignment later with the tire shop's confirmation of my screw up and I was good to go. Second thing, an maybe it was just me again, the drivers side CV wouldn't clear until I popped the tie rod off the bottom of the steering knuckle for a bit more room to swing it back. Hope this helps, thanks for the great video!
This video showed up on my recommended list and I know I’ve watched it before but I figured what the heck I’ll watch a TDM video twice lol. Of course, great video Mike!
Thanks Dave. I have been a bit under the weather at the moment but many videos to do once I get a bit better!
I watched your video prior to replacing a CV axle on my 2002 Century. I followed your steps exactly and it went well except it was the drivers side and I had a hard time getting the axle away from the trans because of the "C" clip. Then months later... (today) I went to replace the passenger side and I wanted to see if it was possible to pull the axle without removing the strut. I didn't remove any of the brake components and even left the rotor attached to the hub. I did put the lugs nuts back onto the studs to keep things contained and it provided something solid to hang on to when pulling the hub assembly down. Once I loosened both strut bolts and removed only the top bolt from the strut, this time I made an axle puller that used a slide hammer (worked great). Then I was able to pull the hub assembly out and down enough to get the axle out and away from the trans and then ran it back up into the engine bay enough to remove the hub end of the axle. No cussing required. Thanks again for posting this information.
Glad to help.
I have a 2002, and 1999 Buick century. The 1999 Buick uses a 34mm socket 🤦♂️.. Do these Buicks have a ABS ring?
Thank you! I was going to pay TiresPlus $300 to do my cv axle, but I think I'll try to do it myself now that I've seen this...
There are many videos out there showing this particular procedure. don't be afraid to check out some of the other videos on youtube on how it is done. Thanks for watching!
I enjoyed your video. It was very easy to follow and understand. You seem to know what you are talking about, and your personality comes across as freindly and helpful. That's nice because so many 'tutorial' style videos have no personality at all. The one thing that I would have liked to hear would be: how do you recognize when a part has failed? Does it make specific type of noise, or do you feel something unusual when you are driving? etc. I have subscribed to your channel and I'm looking forward to viewing more of your videos. Thanks again!
+Sasha Speaks thank you.
Signs of a bad CV axle are typically vibration/shaking that's worse if you have a passenger, a popping sound when you turn tight with the steering fully locked, greasy deposits on the boots, and tears on the boot.
Just saw this and really like how you explained what you had to do! Great Job Hoss, will be doing the ds on my 00 gtp
Thank you and good luck!
Holy crap a genuine part replaced by the one and the only Eric O. Man that thing is priceless. If I were you I would mount it, and have a little spot light shine on it. I am not rich but I could try and send ya a bottle of Quebec beer. I think it is rated at 14%. One bottle will do ya. lol great video buddy. Say hi to your beautiful wife. -John
The idler will come signed and have a signed Eric O. certificate of authenticity!
The Disgruntled Mechanic LMAO. that would be too cool.
I have a 06 Buick lucerne, I just did this CV axle and bearing assembly today.
1. Remove wheel
2. Remove caliper (13mm)
3. Remove caliper bracket (15mm)
4. Remove rotor (may have torx screw from manufacturer)
5. Remove Axle nut (34mm... impact or cheater bar required)
6. Remove hub assembly (13 mm) 3 bolts behind hub.
7. Use 2nd Jack under lower control arm to relieve stress to the ball joints and tie rods .
8. Remove the rods and strut from steering knuckle
9. Remove knuckle
10. Pull CV axle put ( from the shaft with vigour)
11. Reverse the steps and drive with care for the first 100 miles
Note: PB blaster helps , soak the rusted nuts for 30 min with said PB Blaster. Do not use WD-40 , it evaporates too quickly
You don't have to remove the brake caliper all you do is take off the axle nut take,off the 2 bolts that hold the suspension and take off the crown bolt to your lower control arm
What size was the socket you used ? Great video by the way 👍🏽
Thank you.If you mean the the axle nut on this particular Buick it is 35 MM.
The Disgruntled Mechanic what size for the strut sockets
He who does it without cussing has probably done it before
Very good saying!
I've done it before, had to do it again and still cussed my brains out.
I hope you're still on here. I have a 05 Buick Lacrosse, I've been having trouble with the axle popping out of the differential. It measures up perfectly with the old axle. What would your input be on what's causing this?
@@austinsalyer6331 your transmission/diff could be messed up if you beat it up with a bad axle that goes directly into it
LOL!!!! That idler is going to go for a lot of money 💰!! Great video brother I use to do shafts that way but it puts to much strain on the flex hose!!! I remove the ball joint and pry down on the control arm! But what ever works for you is the best way I guess 👍🏻👍🏻 Cheers 🍻
I've done plenty too Ange and I always go for the easiest way and that could be either but then again the cars I work on aren't exactly like yours...Most of our FWD's are Japanese or European and such.
+1wildcamaross if I would be putting the same shaft back in I'd probably do it the way you say. thanks for watching!
Either way looks far too easy compared to the VW/Audi stuff. Where are all the bolts holding the inner CV and why aren't the outer joints bonded in just to ruin your day?? Great wok Mike
Like I don't have enough problems with the rust! haha! Thanks Badger!
Thank you sir for your video it helped me out alot thanks again
Great work Mike and no telling whose hands that idler pulley will wound up at :)
I am sure it will end up in the hands of someone worthy of it!
Just realized that I forgot to leave a comment when I watched this a while back... comment left! LOL
no biggie! thanks!
Good job Mike! I do them the same way. Looks like you'll done a lot of work to the old Buick lately.
Yes but about done now thankfully! Well I hope I am done!
Could this video be used as a guideline for a 97 Oldsmobile aurora
Oh yeah baby, I don't miss a minute. That's funny that you kept the idler from Eric. He's a TH-cam super star so you might actually make out pretty good on the bids. Good luck!
HAHA! well it was more of a joke then anything but it is the one Eric did change.
How much do you think this job should be for labor? Thank you for tour time
Like the video. Can you try to be more specific on the size bolts you are removing and the torque #'s. Other then that great video and love the jump box too. I have the same one
Good video, very helpful. thank you.
Very good, enjoyed without all the cussing. Again good job.
Thank You!
How do you know the axle is bad? Would a loud humming sound be the axle or would it be the bearing?
Jasonjj Wright www.autoblog.com/2016/01/04/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-axle-cv-shaft-assembly/
My 2002 Century started clunking on each trans shift. Is this a good sign the c/v shaft needs replacing? Great vid, very helpful.
Love the video
TY!
Awesome videos pretty much the easy way I just watched a video guy tore whole spindle out thought he was doing way to much he really was
I replaced my cv's on my 00 lesabre and it popped out 2 days later, leaving me stranded. The splines were all chewed up so I switched it for another new one. Had to hammer it into the transaxle . made it to the corner and the second one popped out. Could use your help with any ideas. Thanks
Good work Mike !!
TY!
Well done buddy, EO pulley hahaha . 👍👍
I accept Canadian currency!
Thank you so much for this video.
you are very welcome.
Thanks for the video!
Gonna need to do this to our '95 Riviera soon, do you have any suggestions on CV axle brands and/or where to buy? Also, do you have suggestions on brands to stay away from?
Jeff Stone was it hard to change on the riviera
@@edwardharmon3597 I haven't even changed them yet, this car is nickel and dimming us to death, too many things started to go wrong so I've been debating on selling it. I have my late father's GMC Safari now so I don't drive the Riviera that much these days.
Remanufactured anything is total crap
.
I've had good luck with napa
.
Anything that has the boot clamps that you squeeze works good
.
Anything that has the boot clamps that you fold back over onto itself....total junk
Hey, I hope all is well. It's been awhile but I was able to replace my cv axle on the passenger side but the one on the driver side doesn't have the space the other side has to get in there and free it. Do you have any suggestions on what I could do? Thank you again!
Would an CV axle change be similar on a 2001 3.5 liter Olds Aurora?
What is the factory specs? Would be more helpful if this information was stated or a link to a reliable source for a 2001 Buick century
Great video thank you.
YW!
What symptoms was the car having for you to replace the CV axel? My 2000 regal shakes when I give it gas at about 45mph do u think this could be the problem?
www.autoblog.com/2016/01/04/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-axle-cv-shaft-assembly/
Thank you for the link. I don't hear a clicking noise just a pretty bad shake. Might have my local mechanic look at it and see what he thinks. Thanks again. Very helpful.
@@mr.gimmieareason628 sorry but it has hard to diagnose without actually inspecting the vehicle. A tire out of balance will cause a shake or bad wheel bearing if it is bad enough.
What are the torque specs? For the bolts you unscrew
I have a 2001 Buick century needs the both front replaced cv axle shaft , control arms all 4 suspension
I replaced my cv Axel and all the transmission oil ended up coming out. Could it be it didnt snap all the way in or the i need a new seal at the transmission?
Could be either. Most likely seal but without actually seeing it it is hard to tell.
Ha ! I am having the same problem right now. Just replaced axles both sides, passenger side started leaking, so I pulled the axle back out, replaced the seal and it was still leaking. So I measured the old shaft and new shaft in the car, and found that the new shaft is not in far enough, so going to have to tap it in further, but I believe that is my problem. Check the old axle to the new axle placement and make sure the new one is in just as far as the old axle was, otherwise you may be going through a lot of oil as I have, good luck.
Thank you sir!
+Michael Brown my pleasure!
Where can I find a good CV axle pair? I’m afraid to get then off of Amazon and eBay.
When I actually find one, I will let you know. always a crap shoot.
I went ahead and went with a NAPA left side CV axle. Thank you though!
As good a choice as any. I once got a used CV shaft in a box from Advanced auto. So you never know.
Can I use the same method for a 2000 grand prix? does the alignment change?
I would check the service manual for your vehicle to see if the procedure is the same for your car. I mark the strut/knuckle to try to get them back in the same place to keep alignment as close as possible but it may be advisable to get it realigned since it may only be close.
That cordless impact wrench is impressive. What's the model number?
M18 FUEL 1/2” High Torque Impact Wrench 1,100 ft-lbs. Nut Busting Torque. (2763-20)M18 FUEL 3/8” Impact Wrench Gen 2 4 Drive Motor 210 ft lbs. (2754-20)
Dude that brake hose is screaming! Thanks for the vid though.
Maybe a stupid question but I'm new to working on my car myself. The torque wrench you use, is that a 1/2 or 3/8? Thank you in advance. Great video!
It is a 3/8. I talk about it in this video. th-cam.com/video/CnTMqsGGPEI/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching!
The Disgruntled Mechanic thank you very much!
Thanks for the info, your awesome!
So when do you know to replace cvt
You could say socket sizes and torque spect just a thought
Include sizes and torque specs. Helps save time
I've got a brand new idler in the box if Eric's looking for one.
well this is even a used one.
What size socket for the strut bolts to the knuckle
you cringe how I did the video and now you want me to answer a question for you? no don't think so.
@@TheDisgruntledMechanic sorry it was a copied post I posted on another video lol
@@TheDisgruntledMechanic FIFY
is this the same as 2001 Buick LeSabre Custom 3800
Can u do one on the 01 buick regal heater core
If I ever have to do a 01 buick regal heater core, yes absolutely!
@@TheDisgruntledMechanic ok
Not saying this is wrong but to avoid doing a wheel alignment after disconnect balljoint on lower arm and sometimes the tierod as well instead of the strut bolts thats what the manual calls for
I have seen it done both ways. Thanks for commenting.
The Disgruntled Mechanic no i understand u can do both ways but im sure u know even with marking the strut sometimes u still need an alignment
Yes. I do. and that is a true statement.
Hey man, how do you like that cordless Milwaukee impact? I'm thinking about getting one for work. I'd like to avoid buying one from my snap on dealer, lol. Great video, thanks for the entertainment.
Actually I bought this off the Snap on truck. my dealer talked me into this instead of a Snap on! i love it and would buy the same one again! The fork truck mechanic that does major work on our trucks has the Milwaukee and loves it. The Milwaukee took of nuts my work IR battery impact would not.
Mine pop out on the transmission side (driver side) what did I did wrong it did clip did click
Thanks U got er dunn and right too
I have a same car that as the same problem but I don’t know the correct size socket so I can take it out
I didn't no tank abbott worked on cars.
Tanks for the comment!
Look out for the haters who are sure to attack you for having that brake assembly hanging from the brake line. Good job as usual but wheres the beer?
The brake caliper is where it always is. it was never unhooked but the hose does get stretched a bit. so let them hate! haha!
Thank you
+jamie pollard my pleasure!
I have seen more problems with defective CV axles rebuilt and new then any other part on the car and that is not a part you want to go out on a road trip.
was that a tire machine in the bacground?
yeah
how long have u been doing this kind of work
40 years or so.
What number is the socket
what are the specs sizes please it would really help me out here
160 ft lbs of torque for the 35 mm axle nut.
You may be able to get Erik O's DNA of that and clone him so he could do all the work.
Hey if I can get someone else to do it..............
lol.
Why dont you ever give torque specs and socket sizes on the vehicles you work on. Other than that good job
Give me a break American.... Please
Pretty good video, but I cringed when you pulled like hell on that brake line. If I did that it would bust on me sure as shit.
Hey Mike, my name is Manny and I'm trying to reach out to you for help with my Buick centery. I've tried everyone I know to try and find out what's wrong with my car because I don't have money for a mechanic. If you get this and have time will you reach out to me please I would REALLY appreciate it. Thanks
Man if I had the money to buy it I tottaly would 😂😂 but I got a car to rebuild 🤦
ill give you $2 for that used part that at the end..
I have half a box of donuts I can offer for that idler pulley graced by Eric O.!
+rhkips I will have to carefully consider any all offers!
easy for you ..lol but for me hard to do
you made that look to easy lol good job buddy
lol selling a used pulley ill pass
Thanks!
How are you doing 98 percenter. lol
Fine thanks!
hey Mike. I will give you $20 for the pulley!
Well it was said as more of a joke then actually selling it.
watch that brake hose
thanks
Ben Netterville my thoughts exactly. that was a whole gotta tension on that little hose
One should never do what he did. Downvoting the video just for this reason alone.
Good video, very helpful. thank you.
TY!