Lol my fault entirely :) I think this is the cheap and great entry point to class A. I'm wondering how this compares to cheap jlh1969 amps, some guys say they are nice but not really transparent. This one is nice and transparent :)
Bought this after seeing your video and I am extremely impressed and satisfied. Thanks for guiding me to this gem of an affordable amplifier! Vocals have never sounded better in my room.
Arrived today. Modded the volume controls (bypassed). Tried with Triangle borea br02 and Klipsch rp600m. Good sounding, little power (in a big room). More suitable for desktop and /or nearfield listening. Does not become hot, just warm. It does not distort at full volume. Nice and well built, pity the "Krell" logo in the front panel. I suppose is good value for money. Ordered on the 10th of August, arrived on the 20th of September, I did not pay any import fees. Total cost including shipping 207,38 euros from Weilang audio official store.
Great review again, just straight forward to what we like to know. So please don’t change the way you are filming your videos, they are excellent!! Thank you!!!!
I hope your channel continues to gain subscriptions, i think you are providing a good service :-) Im going to buy a clone and compare it to what I have without spending shitloads of cash.
@@GarethNewell You won’t be sorry! I’m still amazed by the clones and their cost! I could never justify sending thousands for the originals. Wait to you see, feel and listen to these amps there amazing!
@@GarethNewellHope you’re as thrilled as I am with the clones! I’m a little paranoid so I order two complete prebuilt circuit boards for $65.00 just in case. Let us know how they work out for you! Take care.
I have been bi and tri- amping my audio systems since the 70's. I would bet this amp is as good as many of the smaller ones I have utilized on the upper end. Of course I use an electronic cross-over for this. 7 watt triode amps work also.
Also...not being a 1:1 clone is actually a plus...the original A1 integrated amp had a great design but was built with the very cheapest of parts and insufficient heat sinking. I think the original designer was miffed when he saw how much MF downgraded the parts quality when the amp was commercially released.
Yes when I saw re-edition of this amp I couldn't help but wonder why would they put bad stuff from the 80s back inside now. I would at least upgrade parts that are better and available now. Well, I guess there will be market for A1 modding soon :)
For sure, and same thing with speakers´ crossovers! 3 years ago I bought the so hyped Wharfedale Lintons, and was exceptionally underwhelmed and disappointed. Severely lacking high frequency resolution and detail, and actually ridiculously lousy spatial qualities. Airy ? No, not at all. My 40 years old Heybrook HB1:s just killed them, which was not a matter of nuances, but so stark it took merely some seconds to realize. Of course I started surfing the internet for similar experiences as mine, and soon found not only that, but a knowledgeable guy who had done some experimenting ( Mike at HEAD Quarter Acoustics ) with upgrading crossover components qualitywise in his Lintons. The transformation of these Lintons, after having upgraded all capacitors and all resistors from cheapest of the cheap China parts, to average or high quality ones, was so profound that my first spontaneous thought was that this must have been the speaker performance the designer originally signed off as "Mission accomplished", and that the purchasing department at the same company then destroyed by swapping overall for cheap crap components.
You are 1000% right this amp is awesome compared with accuphase e 207, speaker evoke 20 and Emit 20. .no chance e207 its time to the clone a1 . Thanks a lot for true review. Big respect ❤.
Hi.. I bought this amp on your recommendation (the BRZ version). One day, not even burned in and it's already sounding amazing. Soundstage has increased even today. Listening to live version of Zappa's Apostrophe, piano beyond right and bas guitar beyond left. Clear and spacious. Songs seem slower because of that space. Very clear, Paired with Fiio K7 & Q 5020 Thank you so much for sharing. I'm going to try and get more from them.
Thanks, I have several class A set amps diy (300b, 45, 71A, VT25) because of the cost of the triodes I started experimenting with semiconductors I made a jlh hood 1969, jean hiraga 8 watt called le monstre great amplifier I bought in ebay a monarchy sm70. Your comments on the mf A1 clone caught my attention, again thank you very much.
Umm, krasavets! Lyubov moya! Umm! I simply adore your voice… it’s such a joy when you’re talking! I could listen to you for many hours by the candlelight.
@@DrNoahBoddy004 Lol thanks but I'm not russian :D (Though you're not the first one to make that mistake, there has to be something with my accent. Do I sound like all these actors playing russians in the movies? ;) )
@@k4syx either way Xa3anna! I thank God, and your parents on such velvet seduction of such amazing, pitch perfect sweetness. (I must remind myself not to lose my senses in such rhapsodic hypnosis)…. Continue working , my joy. I will always stay out of the way.
@@k4syx Nope ! You sound like a Polish guy with a terrible accent. Also grammatically incorrect too often. The guy who's either too lazy or too greedy to get proper English lessons from native speakers. Get at least a part of the "Cayin's deal" profit and invest in your language skills. Please. The videos and the stuff you're reviewing are pretty interesting, but linguistically... 🤦 Just unbearable 🤷
Terrific Power Amp, better sound quality than my long held Quad 99/909 amplifier. Drives my Harbeth P3ESR speakers very well. Your review is spot on, many thanks!
Hello, I want to ask if you think this amplifier will be suitable for Bosendorfer VC 2. I am currently using a Polish tube amplifier Egg Shell Classic 15.1, i.e. 15 watts in class A Otherwise awesome videos, Thanks
I owned the original A1 when the company was called British Fidelity back in about 1987. It was an all time favorite! If this sounds anything like the original, it would be a joy to hear again! I trust your ears since getting a D5 pro and am sure this is well worth it. Like many of the originals, mine went up in smoke. The new A1 is said to have solved the overheating problems. Thanks again for all your reviews!
Thank you! I'd risk stating that this may sound better because it omits cheap pre section of original. I seriously have no idea why on earth they're again using tl072 opamps in 2024, that's like crippling the device on purpose for nostalgia
@@k4syx The original had the best midrange around as you've noted. Circuit was designed by Tim de Paravicini of Quad and EAR/ Yoshino fame... everything he put out had that clean holographic and harmonically rich and complex midrange. The phonostage in the original A1 was also first rate. If the clone is like the original you will find that little amp capable of driving just about anything...it really swings alot of current like most class A amps.
It was only called British Fidelity in the US, since the name Musical Fidelity was already registered by a small company in America. And in the UK, all Kenwood products were branded as Trio, so they would not be confused with the Kenwood who made kitchen appliances.
Final comments. The unit has been burnt in now. After a lot of listening, I find the sound has changed, in that its imaging is not really its strongest point, and there is a certain opaqueness to how it sounds despite my earlier view that it was clear sounding. To its credit it is smooth and natural sounding with plenty of bass, if a bit loose at times. Good to have the experience of this clone!
Looks solid and well built. Nice review. I am building two tpa3255 mono board amplifier. I am happy to see inner details to understand how to place boards inside the case. This particular case is great indeed. I enjoy it small form factor. Looking for something similar but the black version.
I am using class D amps in my home system today (2 monoblocks Aiyima a07max)… but I want to have a new experience with class A. What do you think about Hood 1969 in comparison with A1? I don’t need many watts for my hand made 2-way speakers and prefer natural sound. I see at Hood1969 or A1 or Naim 42.5+140
I'd go for MF A1. More power, better bass, just do a volume pot bypass to get the best sound quality. 1969 that I have looks better, is in a way similiar, but imho A1 has better vocals (just a tiny tiny bit but still better)
Hi, thank you very much for your review. I've just bought yesterday this amp and suddenly a doubt came in my mind. I haven't got a preamplifier. Does this amp can work aldo as an integrated amolifier connecting only the dac and the speakers? Sorry for the question but I'm not an experct. Thanks
Hi! Yes it can, however if your DAC has integrated volume control I would highly advise to do volume bypass mod on amp and use vol control from DAC if possible
I can if I'll find the time. It's really easy as you just need to disconnect two plugs from reach pot and connect them together with dip8 sized pins - like these used for computer mainboard jumpers. But I will try to find time for you :)
I ordered the amplifier from Ebay yesterday. Do you think it fits my setup (Heed Elexier as a preamp, Dali Oberon 7 and a Bluesound Node 1)? Thanks for your video and greetings from Germany!
Hi! Thank you :) It'll fit your setup just fine, honestly I would say Oberons will be a bottleneck. This amp is not ashamed to perfectly drive my Martin Logan electrostats, so you'll be ready to get some better speakers in the future (with all due respect to Oberons which are great in their price range)
Nice review (Subscribed). Would you say the treble on this reveals the worst in poor recordings? Or does it help to smooth out the harshness of a poor recording? Thank you.
@@Bears-q1w Thanks! Answering the question: neither one. It's not merciless in showing everything recorded badly, but it's not also masking every bad mix and making everything look beautiful. It walks good, thin line in being honest. For me that's the best choice possible here.
Hi. Apologies if this question has been asked before. You have so much interest in your channel it's easy to miss your response to questions. How much power does this draw when idle or playing? More than the Dartzeel clone which you state draws about 150-170 watts. Does it get significantly warmer than the Dartzeel? Keep up the great work.😊
Thanks! Im trying to answer comments at least once per day, but there may be some delays. DartZeel is class AB , way more powerful, but his one is class A and most of the power goes to heat, so it draws significant amount of power even if its power output is quite low. This one was warmer too. For numbers you need to check both videos, I honestly dont rememeber them at the moment...
Thanks for reviewing this and the D5 Pro. Do you think the A1 could be used to drive low-sensitivity planar headphones? Also, to start off with do you recommend the A1 or the D5 Pro? Also, do you plan to explore some clone DACs too?
Yes A1 is splendid with my He6SEv2 - blows away all dedicated headphone amps that I've tried. And for starters I can recommend A1 (its cheaper), but bear in mind that its only 2x20W so if you have low sensitivity or difficult load speakers go for DartZeel clone. DAC clones seem like very rare breed, I've seen just a few of them as there is plenty of great delta-sigma and r2r DACs coming from China with established brands. I dont think I saw any sales for this replica DACs that I've found...
I bought the Musical Fidelity clone amp and a JL Hood 1969 clone. Both use the same chassis, but different circuit designs. How the Chinese can make and ship these amplifiers for $us196.00 for the Musical Fidelity and $us229.00 for the Hood clone delivered in the USA. It took less than two weeks to be delivered. The shipping box was extremely well designed and packed. If I have one complaint is the manual is in Chinese. I used Google Translate and basically the manual contained no technical information.
@@k4syx I can see and hear why people back in the 70’s loved these amps. A friend has a Hood 1969 he built from a kit. My Musical Fidelity clone has arrived, but not the Hood clone. So I was listening the friend system. What I heard reminded me of my Dynaco ST70 and 35 modified by Ban Alstine. The Hood has better bass control and a tube like mid and high frequencies. The image and depth are really incredible. JL Hood loved the tube sound, but wanted to use transistors. At the time transistor HiFi was it or miss with incredible variations. He succeeded with his circuit to come very close to his ideal. Even though it produced about 10 watts RMS it drove most speakers to reasonable sound levels. Nelson Pass and John Curl had only praise for the amplifier. Both went on to making Class A amps at Threshold and Mark Levinson. If I can get 75% of what was described I’ll be incredibly satisfied. From two days of listening to the Musical Fidelity clone, it’s beyond all expectations. A reviewer recommended disconnecting the volume pots and bypassing them, I plan on doing it tomorrow. The parts are first rate, nothing spectacular, but good quality. There was some concern that the Chinese were using recycled or fake parts, they found that all the parts were original new manufacture. Still can’t believe how they can make a 6.3kg amplifier and ship it thousands of miles in 11 days for what they charge. As soon as I receive the Hood Clone and listen to it I will let you know! Thanks for your interest. Just to let you know I am in Maryland, USA.
@@AlanFenick Thanks for sharing Alan! Yes MF clone is simply amazing and the regular parts now have better precision and quality than manually paired stuff that was produced 50y ago. I've recommended bypassing volume pots because they are not really needed there and each time you change volume you have to set balance by ear again. Greetings from Warsaw, capital city of Poland! Greetings from
I owned an original A1 in 85 the best value in the history of Audio Yes it was unreliable but I got 7 years of heavy use out of it Worth every penny one hundred thousand other people agreed as well . Had an A100 as well the same applies.
The power amplifier works really very well, thank you!!! Can I also use this as a mono power amplifier and buy a second one for my setup (Dali Oberon 7, Bluesound Node one, Heed Elexir as a preamplifier) and use these as mono power amplifiers using an adapter? What do you think? Thank you very much! LG Nicolai
Wow I was thinking about JLH - they seem popular, though I've read someone stating that they are not that clean and transparent, though nicely musical. What's your opinion on your amp?
@@k4syx Interesting, in my system JLH is somewhat neutral and clean. Not overly airy though. I was hoping for a bit more smooth treble. However, I run it directly through an ifi DAC with volume control, not through a separate preamplifier. Still thinking about to get a Musical Paradise mp-701 preamp, but can't afford it at the moment.
@@quma001 Funkenya recommended me MP-701 as the preamp for DartZeel clone I got some time ago. So, it seems that there's truth in JLH not being transparent and airy. Try this clone then, it's excellent!
@@k4syx Ok, I also bought the A1 (of course I did 😄) It was running for about 30 hours and I'm very impressed. (Although It was already good from the beginning.) Musical, full, smooth, yet airy. Bass is deep and pleasant but on the soft side. I can imagine it will be even better with a high quality preamp, but it is already at about 85% of my 3.5k Pathos integrated. 👍
@@quma001 And it will be even better. Tiny, amazing amp. I'm glad you enjoy it! :) I'm currently preparing two preamps for testing, two clones (obviously) that could work with MF and DartZeel clones ;)
a few years ago I bought from aliexpress another 20w class A, it was called A6, and it has like a 2000 damping factor. I couldn't compare it to a lot back then, but it sounded really nice and poweful but I sold it after a while. Looking to get another one of these class a cheap amps, ar maybe 2 as suggested in a comment. You could also try that one and compare it to see if that damping factor makes a difference. Thanks and please do more of these. Also curious about the FW F7
Well I have two of them and both are brilliant. I'm planning on reviewing more pre and power amp clones as this got me really interested, seems like a really big bang for a buck. Two "blind" shots and two superb amps!
Martin Logan Ascent I, Motion 35XTi, Motion 15i , Dali Ikon 2 MK2, sometimes Dali Opticon 2 and Wharfedale Diamond 12.3 (these are rare guest as I always need to carry them upstairs). And bass for MF1A clone - as described in video
If I would be forced to pick, then only mids. DartZeel has amazing mids and this one amazing+1. Other than that it's very hard to compare them as DartZeel clone pulls 2x150W per channel and costs 2.5 times more.
Can you please give me the link for the correct dartzeel clone integrated amplifier? I live in Italy. Which vesion I should purchase? the 230v version ? Thanks
Great review, also your Dartzeal review is excellent but its $900 Australian dollars unfortunately. I have a Musical Fidelity A2 class A integrated and Zu druid mk4 speakers 101db sensitivity. Im thinking of buying this as a power amp to go with my MF A2. What do you think?, would they work ok together?. Do have any other recomendations for low wattage class A clone power amps for sensitive speakers under $400 USD?
@@bottomendbliss not really, not yet - just answered your other comment about that. MFA1 would be great as power amp, as that's what it is. Bypass volume control pots and voila: pure power amp and better SQ!
Hi Again Yes, the mod works well and brings enough clarity for me to like this amplifier. It sounds pretty good to my ears, a lovely sound. It's a keeper. Thank you for your help. Kind regards Mark Edwards, New Zealand
@@robertm8518 the cheaper JC2 version that I've reviewed (just one input) to have great budget simple pre, or more expensive JC2 version with multiple inputs and remote (but it alone costs more that this clone)
Got this, the sound is quite good. Still wondering if it is 20w per channel or 20w 2 channel. Maybe the latter. Anyhow the amp is quite strong driving my PSB speakers.
Great video and Great channel appreciate what you’re doing! I’m looking to get this because I have always wanted to try a pure class A amp. Would you think this amp would be a good pairing with my JBL LC310-1 speakers that have a nominal impedance of 8ohm/sensitivity is 92dB? Would be connected to the Yamaha R-N800A Stereo integrated amp using it as a preamp only.
@@PioneerDoom7114 it will be excellent combo. If you can, try to bypass the Yamaha too and check the sound straight from your source, as Y may become a bottleneck here :)
@@airlineflyergg Yes these are good for such simple construction. I have to measure DartZeel clone as it's using DC servo, didn't think about it earlier.
I bought this amp and enjoy it connect to my PC in near field. Only problem is I get really bad EMI coming through the speakers whenever I play a game, EVEN IF the dac is turned off / not plugged into the amp.
And that would be probably cpu/gpu freq switching, that creates A LOT of EMI that will travel along gnd lines and it will not matter if your DAC is on, as long as there will be connection on gnd. You may try to use some kind of USB isolator between DAC and PC to fight that. Some mainboards are so bad, that you can actually hear buzz everytime youmove your mouse as this will change the cpu energy saving states.
FM ones, if you'll search for opinions on the web, there's a few people that got them and are very happy users now. Also, MF 701 came here and there as something really good, but I haven't heard it myself
@@k4syx I guess my question is this… Why are all these clones only analog amplifiers? Perhaps that’s not the right term? But why don’t any of them have digital inputs? Usb, Spdif? Hdmi Arc? And no integrated DACs?
@@TD05SSLegacy that's actually easy. All real hi end stuff does just one job. Amplifiers with DAC integrated are geared towards more common folk who just think about it as having more inputs. Reality is that if your serious about SQ you will pass on "free" built in DAC and get something better, dedicated. For example, many of such integrated amps are using 9016 or 9018 Sabre DACs. These were fine back in the day, but are dated now and were surpassed by any modern DAC. So if you want pure sound quality, you won't be using these internal dated chips, and hi-end manufacturers know about this. They will rather sell you separate HQ DAC than work on integrating something mediocre that can adversely affect sound quality of the whole device :)
Good question. Sabaj includes DAC inside and it's like 3 times more expensive. And powerful, 150W AFAIR vs 20W. Soundwise, A30A is more precise: and MF clone has these gorgeous mids. It's very hard to compare them as they are very different, I would need some kind of table and scores in different categories:)
Wow, great this amp is. i was listening to Nirvana unpllugged and it sounded so live and natural and at almost at a lower pace like music was voiced at 432hz instead of 440hz. Switching to Ramstein it was more then ok although i missed slightly some punch. Then again it has only 15 hours of playtime. I still have to compare it to my Moonriver 404 reference. But if it is clearly better i made a mistake buying the moonriver.
@@JošJedan-j2y You have to get two RCA Y splitters. Plug them in your source (DAC or pre) left and right outputs. Then, one RCA cable (both channels) has to be connected to one splitter and another RCA to the other. And then other end of first RCA cable - both L ad R - connect them to L and R inputs on MFA1. This way you'll have both monoamps with the same input signal, and you can use one speaker out for HF connectors on your speaker and other set for LF connectors - be sure to remove the short/bridge between speaker terminals. Repeat for second RCA cable with second amp. This way you'll have them set to mono with biamp mode. Pls share the results, Im really curious if I should get a second one myself! :)
@@martinvidartnovo8441 I think the easiest way would be to contact BRZHIFI and just ask them which one of schematics that are floating on DIY forums they have used :)
Nice build! However, I have had many of those Omron relays from china on various equipment - they ALL fail after a while and cause a crackle noise. Just buy the real ones and replace. Also, it doesn't seem to have any soft-start circuit. With all that capacitance the transformer gets very stressed on startup. Another easy thing to upgrade.
It actually does some kind of soft start while it's blinking, thought I can't see separate module for that like it was in D5PRO. I wasn't tracing PCB to look for actual parts though.
The new MF A1 has a 'direct' button that bypasses the preamp gain stage resulting in -10db gain (still plenty for modern digital sources) and provides better noise and distortion while maintaining volume control functionality. It also measures about 65C on the top plate heat sink not 70C plus. It also sounds noticeably better than the old one so please do not mix up the two in your comments, especially since you have no personal experience.
Hi! Yes I'm aware of that, though I don't understand why they put that bad pre back there. If I recall correctly bypassing it gives additional 10db to SNR. And 70plus was for fins of the clone :D (if you're referring to my video)
@@k4syx I don't know how much better SNR it provides, I don't believe it is as much as 10db. It provides 10db less gain. Fins are the heat sink on the clone, top plate is the heat sink on the non-clone.. When the system is thermally stabilised the output devices are as hot as the heat sinks by definition, so clone works hotter. The idea was to replicate the original one with as few modifications as possible to replicate the sound character of the original.
None, I'm always using my DAC volume control. In my experience, all pres I had always caused loss of some very fine detail (electrostats are that transparent)
@@k4syx What's the input impedance of this clone and does your DAC provide proper buffering and decent volume control? My experience is that unless the DAC IS a real good pre-amp too then connecting through a proper good pre provides more body and substance to the sound even at the expense of a tiny bit of transparency (the latter would depend on the quality of the pre used).
@@razisn I have no info on input impedance, I can try to measure it. As for the DAC you're right on both points. I am using Gustard X26 Pro and it has excellent volume control. Regarding the body of the sound - I know what you mean, but if its not in the output of the DAC it shouldnt be added via pre - but its my opinion and sound preference is very personal so I totally get that. But that last bit of transparency lost really hurts with electrostats because when youll bypass pre you clearly hear whats missing. Its not like that with dynamic drivers, in these setups I have available I could hear the difference as these are not as fast and precise. Which makes me note that I should retest this with speakers with AMT to see if I can spot the diference then :)
The A1 clone is coming my way and i will use it with a ldr II volume control and propably the metrum nos quad dac or the Cherry Marashino DAC i have. My speakers are Hyperion HPS-938 speakers and some used single ended tube amps with this speaker with succes. Again i don't expect it to have slamming bass.
@@ilanspiro1645 yes I think for pure value its hard to beat. For biamping you can either bypass volume control (better SQ) as in my other video, or leave it to have treble/bass balance controls :D
I recently purchased Choco Sound Emei because the reviewers say that it sounds like tube amp. Previous to that, i have Audiolab 6000a and a Marantz 6400H. So not much experience with amplifiers. The Choco Sound Emei sounds better than the Audiolab overall, only the Bass in the Audiolab have more punch and more defined. Do you think this A1 is going to sound similar to the Choco Sound? And the other question, do you think the Dartz will be an improvement over the Audiolab which is AB class? I love the sound signature of the Choco Sound, but in some tracks i miss the defined and punchier bass. Regards from Mexico City.
@@zombielandiii2711 I think the DartZeel will be better (that's an easy answer because it's just very very good), but I have no idea how to answer the first question about sound signatures as I never heard Choco...
Hello, I have a problem, when I received the device, it was upside down in the shipping box, on the floor because the protective foam on top was missing, there was also no protective plastic cover or instructions, how is this possible? Is it you or customs?
@@dugenounonplie8162 wow I'm pretty sure I wasn't looking into your package :) I don't have that kind of super powers:) Jokes aside, probably customs. It doesn't come with any manual so that's normal, but mine (bought from the shop I linked in the description) was very well protected
Apologies if this isn't the right place to ask this but is it possible to connect a headphone to the speaker taps on the A1? What are the pros and cons and how do you do it?
@@aurallychallenged it's possible but you need a special cable for that. Also, this works best with low sensitivity, hard to drive headphones like some of the planars. If your headphones are ready to drive and high sensitivity then it's not for you, as it will be way too loud just at the beginning of the volume scale and you can burn your headphones. But for monsters like HE6 that's actually pretty cool option as you'll get very good sound quality, and you'll save the money by having just one common setup for your speakers and your headphones. Check out my review on this special banana to XLR balanced 4 pin cable that I've done a few months ago!
All of them have some input tolerance, but it's always good to ask the store. I think some of the guys here in the comments that got it are from the States
thank you so much for your great video[s] please continiue!! because of you i bought 2 pieces of this great amplifier!! will buy the JC2 as well: love your natural presentation!!!
@@frankvanhelvert6231 Thank you for your kind words! I will continue, I already have a pile of stuff to review as I was using every sale and every coupon, coins etc I could to lower the price and order stuff. A lot of interesting things are coming this way! ;)
And since you stepped into the realm of class a amplifiers. I am obliged to suggest you an aleph 3 or aleph 5 amplifier. Better if you have access to first watt f7.
I've seen Alephs and I was wondering why almost nobody buys them. Like just a few single sales here and there and the buyers comments looked like something generated by bots. I have a list of things that I'd like to try, but my budget has its limits :)
@@tamayaytam exactly, these are great constructions that still make your speakers dance. It's fun to build them and you can tune them with higher quality parts, wiring etc. The only thing that's hard for me is diying really good looking case. I love my stuff looking great and shiny;)
No. I'm keeping both of them. MF clone cannot power my Martin Logan electrostats. But it has these gorgeous mids that are just right with my less demanding speakers like Motion 35XTi.
Hi I have also reviewed your video concerning the D5PRO Very confident it will drive my s3100 My intention is the following Use my other video amplifier Onkyo tx ne 656 wich comes with Bluetooth All inputs will be digital via hdmi or Bluetooth Use the amplifier as preamplifier digital and connect an RCA audio extractor at the hdmi output Then the video will continue to feed the video projector and the audio will go to the D5PRO I’d the DAC of the extractor is correct, no signal loss because digital at the hdmi output level and hopefully little loss at the output of the extractor What is your opinion Again thanks for your help and wonderful videos Best regards
@@brunodelacour8976 Honestly, I would just go for D5PRO and something like SMSL DO200 Pro DAC with HDMI arc input for stereo music listening. The overall sound quality will be way better than with Onkyo and HDMI extractor (these are usually really bad)
@@k4syx That sounds good. Dali 850 are 92dB. I think i am not listening them loud, but not quiet as well. With AA MAP105 and bad Pioneer A402R volume is between 9-11 hour. I am using pc with asus xonar essence stx as source (RCA output). Dont know why my previous reply dont apear.
I was thinking about buying another one of these and running them as mono blocks but I am not sure if you can bridge these amps. I really dont want to blow mine up lol.
No, dont bridge them :) But you can use them for mono bi amping driving treble from one channel and bass from the other if you have speakers with separate biwiring posts.
Hey guys, and thank you for testing all this amps for US. Just got this today and immidietely modded it (Got rid of the volume knobs as suggested). Sounds really really good on my System with a WiiM Ultra and Emotiva T2+ Speakers. I also have a Marantz 2285 and an Onkyo 8670 here. It can compete, its different but not like in another League. My question is, is it 100 percent Class A? It does not switch to a/b at a certain Volume right? Gues its not my last Chinese amp 🎉 greetings from Bavaria
@@TheSpacemarine1980 hi there neighbour! Let it play for like 100-150h and it will leave them in dust;) Yes it's pure A class, my energy bills can vouch for that
At that Level they are just different. The Marantz has so much Power and a warm vintage Sound characteristic with incredible strong deep bass. But the clone sounds very well but different too (more analytical and balanced). 🎉
@@TheSpacemarine1980 Yes EXACTLY! I was trying to explain this a few times earlier, its like comparing cars. If you are asking whats best, Dacia Logan or BMW X6, then the answer is obvious. But if you ask whats better, Lamorghini or Ferrari, its more about the taste and your personal preference that scores in points. I have a lot of fun and pleasure just from experiencing all these great builds!
Pozdrawiam. Czy ten klon MF A1 poradzi sobie z JBL Studio 270 ( 8 Ohm , 88 dB ) ? Zależy mi na jakości dźwięku , a nie na głośności. Z góry dziękuję za odpowiedź.
It's quite popular build with power stage only built based on available schematic by BRZHifi. They seem to make quite a lot of different clones (not always 1:1 builds) that have patents expired
@@maxrider2887 Hi! What's the actual temperature? Have you measured it? Mine was running for like more than a week with temperature as I described in the review (don't remember the value now but it was ok). Class A runs hot, but this one was quite ok even for very long sessions. Maybe you are overloading it with some low impedance speakers? Remember it's a low powered baby amp :)
@@k4syx my speaker is Dynaudio emit 20 86db.Temperature may be 40•c +- not too high it can touch for 30/40 sec. I scared about the ic . If it will breakdown.
I haven't heard the PMA so unfortunately I can't reliable answer that... Original amplifiers dating back to 89 can probably have capacitor problems by now - worth checking this out.
@@StagnantMizuI think you should also look for changes in frequency response as it may change with drying caps but I'm sure you are aware of that, so just a side note here:)
If I can get my hands on it, sure :) I'm not a pro reviewer, I just review things that I get for me or family. If I'll have one or someone nearby will get one, then sure!
Edit: There is an instructional video on bypassing the volume pots. watch?v=nkxfpDr2su4 Could you please speak more about which part we would need to purchase to bypass the volume pots and connect the two leads WITHOUT soldering?
@@rolandd5397 yes these are regular parts exactly the same as you can get via Mouser or PartsExpress. Nothing fancy and nothing suspicious. The beauty of electronic design is that parts are always cheap (unless some exotic capacitor brand). The expensive things are chassis and transformers.
Bought one of these for c.£165 recently. So far, I prefer my existing class D power amp, but maybe the A1 needs a good deal more running in than the 20 hours or so it's had to date. Don't know exactly what it is, but I'd say it's not as airy or as good at soundstage and imaging. And boy, does it run hot! Which makes me wonder how much electricity I'm using, how much that costs and what the long-term reliability might be. These are just initial impressions. MIght change eventually.
Leave it running for like 150h. 20h - its just slowly waking from the warehouse sleep ;) D class will be more economical, but all in all MFA1 is not that expensive when it comes to electricity bills.
@@k4syx Thanks. It will be quite a long elapsed time because I run it on average about 2 hrs per day -- but I will take your word for it and see how it works out. 🙂
@@k4syx OK - So I decided to speed up the breaking-in process by playing it for 6-8 hours a day. It's now at around 40 hours in total and it's beginning to loosen up. No longer is there a vague, rather annoying sense that the sound is being "sandpapered", and imagery has opened up a bit. There's a noticeable improvement in tone richness and it's getting generally more enjoyable. I listen to quite a lot of Acapella tracks -- Home Free, Voiceplay, Pentatonics, the Bass Gang and so on. Today I thoroughly enjoyed listening to such tracks and noted especially the tunefulness of the bass singers. Will be interesting to continue listening as it burns in and see if/how it gets even better!
Great review again. But two important questions I do have: about which other amp you are talking exactly, I can't hear due to ... well sound perhaps. :-) Can you give the exact type? And two: how much electricity does it consume than really? How much wattage at 230 Volt? Greetings again from the Netherlands. 🙂
I know, I know :) I'm trying though! I've been in Rotterdam and Amsterdam a few times on business trips - greetings! :) As for the amp that would be Musical Fidelity A1 or DartZeel clone I was referring to (what timestamp are we talking here?) As for power consumed let me check and get back to you :)
@@onnonugteren2935 62.5W when playing with maximum volume (6Ohm nominal speaker load) and 63.8W idle with minimum volume. So more or less stable power consumption regardless of actual usage. Class A heater. 50C on the fins and 51C on the transistors, so not bad at all.
Ah thank you. That's complete and helpful. 🙂@@k4syx Nowadays it's expansive to use 60 Watts constantly, so as you said it has its price. Greetings again.
@@onnonugteren2935 Are ye serious ? That YT channel is about the stuff that costs a fraction of the original ones and you're moaning about the electricity cost of something which consumes 60W constantly 🤔 Don't you save a ton of the electricity bills by buying this cheap, Chinese ersatz ??? Must be you're joking 😂
@@k4syx Almost 20 days daily play around 3 hours plus. My high frequency is too harsh. Any solution to solve this my speakers is Dynaudio Emit 20. Thanks
Dont toe the speakers towards you. Let them face to the Front instead. If not done yet it should make a serious difference. Also room acoustic treatment in general and speaker placement.
Hifi Zone: you just made me order one! A class A amp has always been on my bucket list. Great review.
Lol my fault entirely :)
I think this is the cheap and great entry point to class A. I'm wondering how this compares to cheap jlh1969 amps, some guys say they are nice but not really transparent. This one is nice and transparent :)
@@k4syx when are you going to get the fm300a clone?
@@k4syx
Class A runs 🔥
Leave top lid off
@@MasterofPlay7 when budget permits. It's on my bucket list along with 255 pre or something similar
@@k4syx but I heard the fm255 will have ground loop hum when paired with the fm300a amp
Bought this after seeing your video and I am extremely impressed and satisfied. Thanks for guiding me to this gem of an affordable amplifier! Vocals have never sounded better in my room.
Thank you! It's a steal, I'm glad you enjoy it!
Arrived today. Modded the volume controls (bypassed). Tried with Triangle borea br02 and Klipsch rp600m. Good sounding, little power (in a big room). More suitable for desktop and /or nearfield listening. Does not become hot, just warm. It does not distort at full volume. Nice and well built, pity the "Krell" logo in the front panel. I suppose is good value for money. Ordered on the 10th of August, arrived on the 20th of September, I did not pay any import fees. Total cost including shipping 207,38 euros from Weilang audio official store.
Can you please explain how you bypassed them?
Great review again, just straight forward to what we like to know. So please don’t change the way you are filming your videos, they are excellent!!
Thank you!!!!
Thank you, that's really motivating!!
I agree! More clone reviews it's awesome!!
@@ClassifiedBrief Thank you!
I hope your channel continues to gain subscriptions, i think you are providing a good service :-)
Im going to buy a clone and compare it to what I have without spending shitloads of cash.
@@GarethNewell Thank you!
@@GarethNewell You won’t be sorry! I’m still amazed by the clones and their cost! I could never justify sending thousands for the originals. Wait to you see, feel and listen to these amps there amazing!
@@GarethNewellHope you’re as thrilled as I am with the clones! I’m a little paranoid so I order two complete prebuilt circuit boards for $65.00 just in case. Let us know how they work out for you! Take care.
I have been bi and tri- amping my audio systems since the 70's. I would bet this amp is as good as many of the smaller ones I have utilized on the upper end. Of course I use an electronic cross-over for this. 7 watt triode amps work also.
Upper mids and treble, yes. Stunning!
Also...not being a 1:1 clone is actually a plus...the original A1 integrated amp had a great design but was built with the very cheapest of parts and insufficient heat sinking. I think the original designer was miffed when he saw how much MF downgraded the parts quality when the amp was commercially released.
Yes when I saw re-edition of this amp I couldn't help but wonder why would they put bad stuff from the 80s back inside now. I would at least upgrade parts that are better and available now. Well, I guess there will be market for A1 modding soon :)
For sure, and same thing with speakers´ crossovers! 3 years ago I bought the so hyped Wharfedale Lintons, and was exceptionally underwhelmed and disappointed. Severely lacking high frequency resolution and detail, and actually ridiculously lousy spatial qualities. Airy ? No, not at all. My 40 years old Heybrook HB1:s just killed them, which was not a matter of nuances, but so stark it took merely some seconds to realize. Of course I started surfing the internet for similar experiences as mine, and soon found not only that, but a knowledgeable guy who had done some experimenting ( Mike at HEAD Quarter Acoustics ) with upgrading crossover components qualitywise in his Lintons. The transformation of these Lintons, after having upgraded all capacitors and all resistors from cheapest of the cheap China parts, to average or high quality ones, was so profound that my first spontaneous thought was that this must have been the speaker performance the designer originally signed off as "Mission accomplished", and that the purchasing department at the same company then destroyed by swapping overall for cheap crap components.
I believe the designer was Tim de Paravicini.
Bean counters ruin everything.
@@mrcarpentersc life :)
Thanks for the video. I enjoy your channel. I ordered this amp based on your review and others' comments. It should arrive in about a week
@@marcusmcmurray77 Thanks!
Let it burn in for some time and be sure to check my video on volume pots bypass to get the best SQ :)
You are 1000% right this amp is awesome compared with accuphase e 207, speaker evoke 20 and Emit 20. .no chance e207 its time to the clone a1 . Thanks a lot for true review.
Big respect ❤.
Another great review of an audio gem.
Many thanks:)
Thank you!
Thanks for these videos! This looks like a sweet little piece for very little money. I think I will pick one up. Thanks again.
Thank you!
Hi.. I bought this amp on your recommendation (the BRZ version). One day, not even burned in and it's already sounding amazing. Soundstage has increased even today. Listening to live version of Zappa's Apostrophe, piano beyond right and bas guitar beyond left. Clear and spacious. Songs seem slower because of that space. Very clear,
Paired with Fiio K7 & Q 5020
Thank you so much for sharing. I'm going to try and get more from them.
Thanks for sharing and all the best with this little gem!
Mine will be here in 2 days. Im excited!
Please do share you thoughts here, ok? Thanks!
Thank you very much for your dedication, you have compared it with other class A amps
@@martinvidartnovo8441 not really, just to the other amps that I own...
Thanks, I have several class A set amps diy (300b, 45, 71A, VT25) because of the cost of the triodes I started experimenting with semiconductors I made a jlh hood 1969, jean hiraga 8 watt called le monstre great amplifier I bought in ebay a monarchy sm70. Your comments on the mf A1 clone caught my attention, again thank you very much.
Umm, krasavets!
Lyubov moya!
Umm! I simply adore your voice… it’s such a joy when you’re talking! I could listen to you for many hours by the candlelight.
@@DrNoahBoddy004 Lol thanks but I'm not russian :D
(Though you're not the first one to make that mistake, there has to be something with my accent. Do I sound like all these actors playing russians in the movies? ;) )
@@k4syx either way Xa3anna!
I thank God, and your parents on such velvet seduction of such amazing, pitch perfect sweetness. (I must remind myself not to lose my senses in such rhapsodic hypnosis)…. Continue working , my joy. I will always stay out of the way.
@@DrNoahBoddy004 xD I will!
@@k4syx
Nope !
You sound like a Polish guy with a terrible accent.
Also grammatically incorrect too often.
The guy who's either too lazy or too greedy to get proper English lessons from native speakers.
Get at least a part of the "Cayin's deal" profit and invest in your language skills.
Please.
The videos and the stuff you're reviewing are pretty interesting, but linguistically... 🤦
Just unbearable 🤷
Terrific Power Amp, better sound quality than my long held Quad 99/909 amplifier. Drives my Harbeth P3ESR speakers very well. Your review is spot on, many thanks!
Thank you! It's absolute gem!
Great reviews ! keep them coming !
Thank you!
Hello, I want to ask if you think this amplifier will be suitable for Bosendorfer VC 2. I am currently using a Polish tube amplifier Egg Shell Classic 15.1, i.e. 15 watts in class A
Otherwise awesome videos, Thanks
Thanks!
I honestly cant tell as I havent heard Bosendorfers. But its very current efficient too and its more powerful than 15W per channel
I owned the original A1 when the company was called British Fidelity back in about 1987. It was an all time favorite! If this sounds anything like the original, it would be a joy to hear again!
I trust your ears since getting a D5 pro and am sure this is well worth it. Like many of the originals, mine went up in smoke. The new A1 is said to have solved the overheating problems.
Thanks again for all your reviews!
Thank you!
I'd risk stating that this may sound better because it omits cheap pre section of original. I seriously have no idea why on earth they're again using tl072 opamps in 2024, that's like crippling the device on purpose for nostalgia
@@k4syx The original had the best midrange around as you've noted. Circuit was designed by Tim de Paravicini of Quad and EAR/ Yoshino fame... everything he put out had that clean holographic and harmonically rich and complex midrange. The phonostage in the original A1 was also first rate. If the clone is like the original you will find that little amp capable of driving just about anything...it really swings alot of current like most class A amps.
@@mikec8763 yes these two things (mids and imaging) are standing out here IMHO. Great little amp!
It was only called British Fidelity in the US, since the name Musical Fidelity was already registered by a small company in America.
And in the UK, all Kenwood products were branded as Trio, so they would not be confused with the Kenwood who made kitchen appliances.
The company was NEVER called British Fidelity. BF was a a brand name used for a short time by MF for the North America markets..
Final comments.
The unit has been burnt in now. After a lot of listening, I find the sound has changed, in that its imaging is not really its strongest point, and there is a certain opaqueness to how it sounds despite my earlier view that it was clear sounding. To its credit it is smooth and natural sounding with plenty of bass, if a bit loose at times. Good to have the experience of this clone!
@@MarkEdwards-u9p Thanks for sharing! Have you bypassed volume controls?
It's worth buying for say £220 new ?
Nice presentation with the importents properties 🙂
Looks solid and well built. Nice review. I am building two tpa3255 mono board amplifier. I am happy to see inner details to understand how to place boards inside the case. This particular case is great indeed. I enjoy it small form factor. Looking for something similar but the black version.
Happy to help. I like TPA3255, it has potential. I wonder where we will be with class D in a few years.
@k4syx I am going to measure my mono tpa3255 on 8 om load, but I expect to have pure 110w before clipping. For me, it is more than enough!
I am using class D amps in my home system today (2 monoblocks Aiyima a07max)… but I want to have a new experience with class A. What do you think about Hood 1969 in comparison with A1? I don’t need many watts for my hand made 2-way speakers and prefer natural sound. I see at Hood1969 or A1 or Naim 42.5+140
I'd go for MF A1. More power, better bass, just do a volume pot bypass to get the best sound quality. 1969 that I have looks better, is in a way similiar, but imho A1 has better vocals (just a tiny tiny bit but still better)
@ thank u for your opinion, it’s helpful for me.
Hi, thank you very much for your review. I've just bought yesterday this amp and suddenly a doubt came in my mind. I haven't got a preamplifier. Does this amp can work aldo as an integrated amolifier connecting only the dac and the speakers? Sorry for the question but I'm not an experct. Thanks
Hi! Yes it can, however if your DAC has integrated volume control I would highly advise to do volume bypass mod on amp and use vol control from DAC if possible
Great video, just ordered one. I'm interested in bypassing the Volume pots, could you maybe do an instruction Video? That would be awesome
I can if I'll find the time. It's really easy as you just need to disconnect two plugs from reach pot and connect them together with dip8 sized pins - like these used for computer mainboard jumpers. But I will try to find time for you :)
I set mine up last night and Z3M's got booted out of this system. Thanks for the review!
@@mattmiller4978 that's the best one line review so far! XD
I ordered the amplifier from Ebay yesterday. Do you think it fits my setup (Heed Elexier as a preamp, Dali Oberon 7 and a Bluesound Node 1)? Thanks for your video and greetings from Germany!
Hi!
Thank you :)
It'll fit your setup just fine, honestly I would say Oberons will be a bottleneck. This amp is not ashamed to perfectly drive my Martin Logan electrostats, so you'll be ready to get some better speakers in the future (with all due respect to Oberons which are great in their price range)
Can I confirm that this is a power amp? I will need a premp and a dac to hook up to it？Thank you
@@pheunthai this is power amp but with simple volume control: so you can start with DAC and add pre later on
Nice review (Subscribed). Would you say the treble on this reveals the worst in poor recordings? Or does it help to smooth out the harshness of a poor recording? Thank you.
@@Bears-q1w Thanks!
Answering the question: neither one. It's not merciless in showing everything recorded badly, but it's not also masking every bad mix and making everything look beautiful. It walks good, thin line in being honest. For me that's the best choice possible here.
@@k4syx Thank you for your answer.
I have to say, please continue with the A class clones, see if you can find something powerful enough for your Martins or my Epicon 😅
Always on the lookout for something that can feed my power hungry ML beasts :)
Would the Aiyima A07 Max you reviewed sound more detailed and clear than the Musical Fidelity clone?
Nope.
Hi. Apologies if this question has been asked before. You have so much interest in your channel it's easy to miss your response to questions.
How much power does this draw when idle or playing? More than the Dartzeel clone which you state draws about 150-170 watts.
Does it get significantly warmer than the Dartzeel?
Keep up the great work.😊
Thanks! Im trying to answer comments at least once per day, but there may be some delays. DartZeel is class AB , way more powerful, but his one is class A and most of the power goes to heat, so it draws significant amount of power even if its power output is quite low. This one was warmer too. For numbers you need to check both videos, I honestly dont rememeber them at the moment...
Many thanks for your reply. It must be very hard to keep track of what you said in a video. I found the answer in a reply you made. Very best wishes.
I measured around 65 Watt on mine.
Thanks for your reply. My A1 is on its way to the UK via the Netherlands!! Really looking forward to receiving it and the BRZHIFI class A preamp L1.
@@aurallychallenged Mine went the same way recently, its 2 or 3 working days away I gues. Great amp, i am positively surprised.
Thanks for reviewing this and the D5 Pro. Do you think the A1 could be used to drive low-sensitivity planar headphones? Also, to start off with do you recommend the A1 or the D5 Pro? Also, do you plan to explore some clone DACs too?
Yes A1 is splendid with my He6SEv2 - blows away all dedicated headphone amps that I've tried. And for starters I can recommend A1 (its cheaper), but bear in mind that its only 2x20W so if you have low sensitivity or difficult load speakers go for DartZeel clone. DAC clones seem like very rare breed, I've seen just a few of them as there is plenty of great delta-sigma and r2r DACs coming from China with established brands. I dont think I saw any sales for this replica DACs that I've found...
@@k4syx I took the plunge and got the A1. I'll update you when it makes its way here. Thanks for the nudge
@@SartajAnand yes please do, let it burn in for some time and enjoy it - and share your opinion!
Can this amp drive my Fyne audio f501 speakers with ease? Sensitivity is 90db approx. Or would you go for the d5pro?
I bought the Musical Fidelity clone amp and a JL Hood 1969 clone. Both use the same chassis, but different circuit designs. How the Chinese can make and ship these amplifiers for $us196.00 for the Musical Fidelity and $us229.00 for the Hood clone delivered in the USA. It took less than two weeks to be delivered. The shipping box was extremely well designed and packed. If I have one complaint is the manual is in Chinese. I used Google Translate and basically the manual contained no technical information.
Yes its amazing, in Europe that price would be probably for chassis and maybe transformer alone! How do you find 1969? I'm thinking about getting one.
@@k4syx I can see and hear why people back in the 70’s loved these amps. A friend has a Hood 1969 he built from a kit. My Musical Fidelity clone has arrived, but not the Hood clone. So I was listening the friend system. What I heard reminded me of my Dynaco ST70 and 35 modified by Ban Alstine. The Hood has better bass control and a tube like mid and high frequencies. The image and depth are really incredible. JL Hood loved the tube sound, but wanted to use transistors. At the time transistor HiFi was it or miss with incredible variations. He succeeded with his circuit to come very close to his ideal. Even though it produced about 10 watts RMS it drove most speakers to reasonable sound levels. Nelson Pass and John Curl had only praise for the amplifier. Both went on to making Class A amps at Threshold and Mark Levinson. If I can get 75% of what was described I’ll be incredibly satisfied. From two days of listening to the Musical Fidelity clone, it’s beyond all expectations. A reviewer recommended disconnecting the volume pots and bypassing them, I plan on doing it tomorrow. The parts are first rate, nothing spectacular, but good quality. There was some concern that the Chinese were using recycled or fake parts, they found that all the parts were original new manufacture. Still can’t believe how they can make a 6.3kg amplifier and ship it thousands of miles in 11 days for what they charge. As soon as I receive the Hood Clone and listen to it I will let you know! Thanks for your interest. Just to let you know I am in Maryland, USA.
@@AlanFenick Thanks for sharing Alan!
Yes MF clone is simply amazing and the regular parts now have better precision and quality than manually paired stuff that was produced 50y ago. I've recommended bypassing volume pots because they are not really needed there and each time you change volume you have to set balance by ear again.
Greetings from Warsaw, capital city of Poland!
Greetings from
Have you got the Hood 1969 yet ?
@@jupitermoongauge4055nope, I got Burmester 933 instead (just for now, but Hood is still on my list)
I owned an original A1 in 85 the best value in the history of Audio Yes it was unreliable but I got 7 years of heavy use out of it Worth every penny one hundred thousand other people agreed as well . Had an A100 as well the same applies.
The power amplifier works really very well, thank you!!! Can I also use this as a mono power amplifier and buy a second one for my setup (Dali Oberon 7, Bluesound Node one, Heed Elexir as a preamplifier) and use these as mono power amplifiers using an adapter? What do you think? Thank you very much! LG Nicolai
@@lunol6165 Hi! Thank you!
Yes that's doable, to have two to use in biamping setup. There was a discussion about that about earlier in the comments!
@@k4syx thank you very much! Greetz
Great review, I have the JLH 1969 amp in the same case and now I think about ordering the A1 clone too 😅
Wow I was thinking about JLH - they seem popular, though I've read someone stating that they are not that clean and transparent, though nicely musical. What's your opinion on your amp?
@@k4syx Interesting, in my system JLH is somewhat neutral and clean. Not overly airy though. I was hoping for a bit more smooth treble. However, I run it directly through an ifi DAC with volume control, not through a separate preamplifier. Still thinking about to get a Musical Paradise mp-701 preamp, but can't afford it at the moment.
@@quma001 Funkenya recommended me MP-701 as the preamp for DartZeel clone I got some time ago.
So, it seems that there's truth in JLH not being transparent and airy. Try this clone then, it's excellent!
@@k4syx Ok, I also bought the A1 (of course I did 😄) It was running for about 30 hours and I'm very impressed. (Although It was already good from the beginning.) Musical, full, smooth, yet airy. Bass is deep and pleasant but on the soft side. I can imagine it will be even better with a high quality preamp, but it is already at about 85% of my 3.5k Pathos integrated. 👍
@@quma001 And it will be even better. Tiny, amazing amp. I'm glad you enjoy it! :)
I'm currently preparing two preamps for testing, two clones (obviously) that could work with MF and DartZeel clones ;)
a few years ago I bought from aliexpress another 20w class A, it was called A6, and it has like a 2000 damping factor. I couldn't compare it to a lot back then, but it sounded really nice and poweful but I sold it after a while. Looking to get another one of these class a cheap amps, ar maybe 2 as suggested in a comment. You could also try that one and compare it to see if that damping factor makes a difference. Thanks and please do more of these. Also curious about the FW F7
Well I have two of them and both are brilliant. I'm planning on reviewing more pre and power amp clones as this got me really interested, seems like a really big bang for a buck. Two "blind" shots and two superb amps!
hi, what speakers you use for your auditions of these chi-fi amps? how about the bass from this A1?
Martin Logan Ascent I, Motion 35XTi, Motion 15i , Dali Ikon 2 MK2, sometimes Dali Opticon 2 and Wharfedale Diamond 12.3 (these are rare guest as I always need to carry them upstairs).
And bass for MF1A clone - as described in video
What are qualities of this amp that outperforms the DartZeel amp?
If I would be forced to pick, then only mids. DartZeel has amazing mids and this one amazing+1.
Other than that it's very hard to compare them as DartZeel clone pulls 2x150W per channel and costs 2.5 times more.
would this amp power a speaker that requires sensitivity: 90 dB. impedance: 8 ohms ?
Yes, that's a good pairing
Thanks for your content. I agree with your conclusions regarding the extremely good value of this and the Dartzeel clone. If fact I've purchased both.
Thanks!
Can you please give me the link for the correct dartzeel clone integrated amplifier? I live in Italy. Which vesion I should purchase? the 230v version ? Thanks
@@James10071976 get 230V, the link is here: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DdZaukx
Thank you sir !
Thanks for the great video! With the bypass, will this have sufficient power to drive the KEF LS3/5a? Thanks.
Should have, with no problem, unless you are listening at very loud volume levels?
Thank you for the quick response!
What speakers did you use for the evaluation.
Martin Logan Motion 15 and 35XTi, some short listening on Dali Ikon 1 MK2. This has not enough juice for my electrostats (unfortunately)
Great review, also your Dartzeal review is excellent but its $900 Australian dollars unfortunately.
I have a Musical Fidelity A2 class A integrated and Zu druid mk4 speakers 101db sensitivity. Im thinking of buying this as a power amp to go with my MF A2. What do you think?, would they work ok together?.
Do have any other recomendations for low wattage class A clone power amps for sensitive speakers under $400 USD?
@@bottomendbliss not really, not yet - just answered your other comment about that. MFA1 would be great as power amp, as that's what it is. Bypass volume control pots and voila: pure power amp and better SQ!
Hi Again
Yes, the mod works well and brings enough clarity for me to like this amplifier. It sounds pretty good to my ears, a lovely sound. It's a keeper. Thank you for your help.
Kind regards
Mark Edwards, New Zealand
@@MarkEdwards-u9p Hi Mark! I'm glad you like it, for me it's also the keeper that will stay in my collection!
What preamp do you recommend to mate with it?
@@robertm8518 the cheaper JC2 version that I've reviewed (just one input) to have great budget simple pre, or more expensive JC2 version with multiple inputs and remote (but it alone costs more that this clone)
Got this, the sound is quite good. Still wondering if it is 20w per channel or 20w 2 channel. Maybe the latter. Anyhow the amp is quite strong driving my PSB speakers.
Its 20Wx2 so 20W per channel. It is very current efficient so that 20Wx2 is not that small in reality
Great video and Great channel appreciate what you’re doing! I’m looking to get this because I have always wanted to try a pure class A amp. Would you think this amp would be a good pairing with my JBL LC310-1 speakers that have a nominal impedance of 8ohm/sensitivity is 92dB? Would be connected to the Yamaha R-N800A Stereo integrated amp using it as a preamp only.
@@PioneerDoom7114 it will be excellent combo. If you can, try to bypass the Yamaha too and check the sound straight from your source, as Y may become a bottleneck here :)
great review!! Looks like a great deal!
Thank you! It is! :)
Thanks for the review. Did you measure the DC offset at the output?
3.3mV R, 4.7mV L, inputs disconnected, maximum volume set on both channels.
Great question, thank you!
@@k4syx Those are good numbers and probably even better with inputs shorted.
@@airlineflyergg Yes these are good for such simple construction. I have to measure DartZeel clone as it's using DC servo, didn't think about it earlier.
I bought this amp and enjoy it connect to my PC in near field. Only problem is I get really bad EMI coming through the speakers whenever I play a game, EVEN IF the dac is turned off / not plugged into the amp.
And that would be probably cpu/gpu freq switching, that creates A LOT of EMI that will travel along gnd lines and it will not matter if your DAC is on, as long as there will be connection on gnd. You may try to use some kind of USB isolator between DAC and PC to fight that.
Some mainboards are so bad, that you can actually hear buzz everytime youmove your mouse as this will change the cpu energy saving states.
Are there any clone digital preamps that look promising even if you haven’t tried them?
FM ones, if you'll search for opinions on the web, there's a few people that got them and are very happy users now. Also, MF 701 came here and there as something really good, but I haven't heard it myself
@@k4syx I guess my question is this… Why are all these clones only analog amplifiers? Perhaps that’s not the right term? But why don’t any of them have digital inputs? Usb, Spdif? Hdmi Arc? And no integrated DACs?
@@TD05SSLegacy that's actually easy. All real hi end stuff does just one job. Amplifiers with DAC integrated are geared towards more common folk who just think about it as having more inputs. Reality is that if your serious about SQ you will pass on "free" built in DAC and get something better, dedicated. For example, many of such integrated amps are using 9016 or 9018 Sabre DACs. These were fine back in the day, but are dated now and were surpassed by any modern DAC. So if you want pure sound quality, you won't be using these internal dated chips, and hi-end manufacturers know about this. They will rather sell you separate HQ DAC than work on integrating something mediocre that can adversely affect sound quality of the whole device :)
Thanks for the great review.
How does the Sabaj A30a compare to this one?
Good question. Sabaj includes DAC inside and it's like 3 times more expensive. And powerful, 150W AFAIR vs 20W. Soundwise, A30A is more precise: and MF clone has these gorgeous mids.
It's very hard to compare them as they are very different, I would need some kind of table and scores in different categories:)
Wow, great this amp is. i was listening to Nirvana unpllugged and it sounded so live and natural and at almost at a lower pace like music was voiced at 432hz instead of 440hz. Switching to Ramstein it was more then ok although i missed slightly some punch. Then again it has only 15 hours of playtime. I still have to compare it to my Moonriver 404 reference. But if it is clearly better i made a mistake buying the moonriver.
@@GentielioGaming Give it some time and bypass these volume pots (look for my other video)
Any chance someone to explain how to connect two MF A1 amps?
@@JošJedan-j2y You have to get two RCA Y splitters. Plug them in your source (DAC or pre) left and right outputs. Then, one RCA cable (both channels) has to be connected to one splitter and another RCA to the other. And then other end of first RCA cable - both L ad R - connect them to L and R inputs on MFA1. This way you'll have both monoamps with the same input signal, and you can use one speaker out for HF connectors on your speaker and other set for LF connectors - be sure to remove the short/bridge between speaker terminals. Repeat for second RCA cable with second amp. This way you'll have them set to mono with biamp mode. Pls share the results, Im really curious if I should get a second one myself! :)
@@k4syx Thank you for your detailed response. All the best, my Slavic brother.
@@JošJedan-j2y Likewise, likewise! :)
I just arrived, first impressions sounds great, highly recommended, pc- dac- fostex 126E blr horn, thanks friend
@@martinvidartnovo8441 and it will get even better! Enjoy, thanks for sharing!
After owning an A 1 and A100 I've never strayed from class A amplification.
Where can I get the schematic?, Thanks
@@martinvidartnovo8441 I think the easiest way would be to contact BRZHIFI and just ask them which one of schematics that are floating on DIY forums they have used :)
Nice build! However, I have had many of those Omron relays from china on various equipment - they ALL fail after a while and cause a crackle noise. Just buy the real ones and replace.
Also, it doesn't seem to have any soft-start circuit. With all that capacitance the transformer gets very stressed on startup. Another easy thing to upgrade.
It actually does some kind of soft start while it's blinking, thought I can't see separate module for that like it was in D5PRO. I wasn't tracing PCB to look for actual parts though.
And thanks for the tip on Omrons, I will watch them carefully!
Just wanted to note I received mine yesterday and they took the Krell sticker off and put one of their very own..says brzhifi. ..
@@bigdogk55gmail good change! Thanks for the info. Does it look good?
The new MF A1 has a 'direct' button that bypasses the preamp gain stage resulting in -10db gain (still plenty for modern digital sources) and provides better noise and distortion while maintaining volume control functionality. It also measures about 65C on the top plate heat sink not 70C plus. It also sounds noticeably better than the old one so please do not mix up the two in your comments, especially since you have no personal experience.
Hi! Yes I'm aware of that, though I don't understand why they put that bad pre back there. If I recall correctly bypassing it gives additional 10db to SNR. And 70plus was for fins of the clone :D (if you're referring to my video)
@@k4syx I don't know how much better SNR it provides, I don't believe it is as much as 10db. It provides 10db less gain. Fins are the heat sink on the clone, top plate is the heat sink on the non-clone.. When the system is thermally stabilised the output devices are as hot as the heat sinks by definition, so clone works hotter. The idea was to replicate the original one with as few modifications as possible to replicate the sound character of the original.
Maybe i missed it in the review but what preamp did you use with this amp? Any reommendations?
None, I'm always using my DAC volume control. In my experience, all pres I had always caused loss of some very fine detail (electrostats are that transparent)
@@k4syx What's the input impedance of this clone and does your DAC provide proper buffering and decent volume control? My experience is that unless the DAC IS a real good pre-amp too then connecting through a proper good pre provides more body and substance to the sound even at the expense of a tiny bit of transparency (the latter would depend on the quality of the pre used).
@@razisn I have no info on input impedance, I can try to measure it. As for the DAC you're right on both points. I am using Gustard X26 Pro and it has excellent volume control. Regarding the body of the sound - I know what you mean, but if its not in the output of the DAC it shouldnt be added via pre - but its my opinion and sound preference is very personal so I totally get that. But that last bit of transparency lost really hurts with electrostats because when youll bypass pre you clearly hear whats missing. Its not like that with dynamic drivers, in these setups I have available I could hear the difference as these are not as fast and precise. Which makes me note that I should retest this with speakers with AMT to see if I can spot the diference then :)
The A1 clone is coming my way and i will use it with a ldr II volume control and propably the metrum nos quad dac or the Cherry Marashino DAC i have. My speakers are Hyperion HPS-938 speakers and some used single ended tube amps with this speaker with succes. Again i don't expect it to have slamming bass.
@@GentielioGaming cool setup! How do you find ldr II? Do you like it? That's interesting device.
Hi
Should a 89db 6ohm nominal (goes down to 3.6ohm) will work ok with it for a near field listening on a small to medium room??
Thanks 😊
Near field yes, disco levels no ;)
For near field I think this may be excellent choice
Great thanks 🙏
Just ordered 2 units for bi amping it
It's now just $205 so for 2 units cost $410 i guess it's a no brainer ;)
410$ shipped 🎉
@@ilanspiro1645 yes I think for pure value its hard to beat. For biamping you can either bypass volume control (better SQ) as in my other video, or leave it to have treble/bass balance controls :D
Great video, keep up
Thank you very much.
No, I have not done that yet, will give it a try, do you think it improves the sound quality a lot?
@@MarkEdwards-u9p "a lot" is a difficult word here :)
It does improve the sound, that's for sure. Try it - it's very simple and totally reversible!
I recently purchased Choco Sound Emei because the reviewers say that it sounds like tube amp. Previous to that, i have Audiolab 6000a and a Marantz 6400H. So not much experience with amplifiers. The Choco Sound Emei sounds better than the Audiolab overall, only the Bass in the Audiolab have more punch and more defined. Do you think this A1 is going to sound similar to the Choco Sound?
And the other question, do you think the Dartz will be an improvement over the Audiolab which is AB class? I love the sound signature of the Choco Sound, but in some tracks i miss the defined and punchier bass.
Regards from Mexico City.
@@zombielandiii2711 I think the DartZeel will be better (that's an easy answer because it's just very very good), but I have no idea how to answer the first question about sound signatures as I never heard Choco...
Hello, I have a problem, when I received the device, it was upside down in the shipping box, on the floor because the protective foam on top was missing, there was also no protective plastic cover or instructions, how is this possible? Is it you or customs?
@@dugenounonplie8162 wow I'm pretty sure I wasn't looking into your package :)
I don't have that kind of super powers:)
Jokes aside, probably customs. It doesn't come with any manual so that's normal, but mine (bought from the shop I linked in the description) was very well protected
Apologies if this isn't the right place to ask this but is it possible to connect a headphone to the speaker taps on the A1? What are the pros and cons and how do you do it?
@@aurallychallenged it's possible but you need a special cable for that. Also, this works best with low sensitivity, hard to drive headphones like some of the planars. If your headphones are ready to drive and high sensitivity then it's not for you, as it will be way too loud just at the beginning of the volume scale and you can burn your headphones. But for monsters like HE6 that's actually pretty cool option as you'll get very good sound quality, and you'll save the money by having just one common setup for your speakers and your headphones.
Check out my review on this special banana to XLR balanced 4 pin cable that I've done a few months ago!
I see a problem in that the US voltage is often approaching 120VAC and the amp is only rated to be used with 110 VAC,
All of them have some input tolerance, but it's always good to ask the store. I think some of the guys here in the comments that got it are from the States
thank you so much for your great video[s] please continiue!! because of you i bought 2 pieces of this great amplifier!! will buy the JC2 as well: love your natural presentation!!!
🤓
@@frankvanhelvert6231 Thank you for your kind words!
I will continue, I already have a pile of stuff to review as I was using every sale and every coupon, coins etc I could to lower the price and order stuff. A lot of interesting things are coming this way! ;)
@@k4syx i"am really wondering how the sugden a21 clone would sound compared to MF CLONE!
@@frankvanhelvert6231 it's on my list. It's not as cheap though, it's like 20prc more expensive
And since you stepped into the realm of class a amplifiers. I am obliged to suggest you an aleph 3 or aleph 5 amplifier. Better if you have access to first watt f7.
I've seen Alephs and I was wondering why almost nobody buys them. Like just a few single sales here and there and the buyers comments looked like something generated by bots.
I have a list of things that I'd like to try, but my budget has its limits :)
@@k4syx I built it from a kit. The total wasn't more than 100 dollars.
@@tamayaytam exactly, these are great constructions that still make your speakers dance. It's fun to build them and you can tune them with higher quality parts, wiring etc. The only thing that's hard for me is diying really good looking case. I love my stuff looking great and shiny;)
Thanks for the great review.
Do you prefer this over the Dartzeel?
No. I'm keeping both of them. MF clone cannot power my Martin Logan electrostats. But it has these gorgeous mids that are just right with my less demanding speakers like Motion 35XTi.
Thanks a lot for this review
What is the max Power in class ab?
This is pure A class, it's 20W per channel
Hi
I have also reviewed your video concerning the D5PRO
Very confident it will drive my s3100
My intention is the following
Use my other video amplifier Onkyo tx ne 656 wich comes with Bluetooth
All inputs will be digital via hdmi or Bluetooth
Use the amplifier as preamplifier digital and connect an RCA audio extractor at the hdmi output
Then the video will continue to feed the video projector and the audio will go to the D5PRO
I’d the DAC of the extractor is correct, no signal loss because digital at the hdmi output level and hopefully little loss at the output of the extractor
What is your opinion
Again thanks for your help and wonderful videos
Best regards
@@brunodelacour8976 Honestly, I would just go for D5PRO and something like SMSL DO200 Pro DAC with HDMI arc input for stereo music listening. The overall sound quality will be way better than with Onkyo and HDMI extractor (these are usually really bad)
Do you think this clone will handle Dali 850 (4ohm), which are often called "hard" to power?
It will, it's class A, so current efficient, but what's the sensitivity on these and your regular listening volume level?
@@k4syx That sounds good. Dali 850 are 92dB. I think i am not listening them loud, but not quiet as well. With AA MAP105 and bad Pioneer A402R volume is between 9-11 hour. I am using pc with asus xonar essence stx as source (RCA output). Dont know why my previous reply dont apear.
@@Haulik-b6w They are pretty sensitive then, you'll be fine :)
Great review. Cheers.
Thanks!
I was thinking about buying another one of these and running them as mono blocks but I am not sure if you can bridge these amps. I really dont want to blow mine up lol.
No, dont bridge them :) But you can use them for mono bi amping driving treble from one channel and bass from the other if you have speakers with separate biwiring posts.
@k4syx Way better idea hahaha. Thank you!
Excellent review!!!
Great discovery. I wonder how is this compared with Smsl vmv A1 10 watts?
No idea, I haven't heard A1 so I won't try to guess... :(
Hey guys, and thank you for testing all this amps for US. Just got this today and immidietely modded it (Got rid of the volume knobs as suggested). Sounds really really good on my System with a WiiM Ultra and Emotiva T2+ Speakers. I also have a Marantz 2285 and an Onkyo 8670 here. It can compete, its different but not like in another League.
My question is, is it 100 percent Class A? It does not switch to a/b at a certain Volume right? Gues its not my last Chinese amp 🎉 greetings from Bavaria
@@TheSpacemarine1980 hi there neighbour!
Let it play for like 100-150h and it will leave them in dust;)
Yes it's pure A class, my energy bills can vouch for that
At that Level they are just different. The Marantz has so much Power and a warm vintage Sound characteristic with incredible strong deep bass. But the clone sounds very well but different too (more analytical and balanced). 🎉
@@TheSpacemarine1980 Yes EXACTLY! I was trying to explain this a few times earlier, its like comparing cars. If you are asking whats best, Dacia Logan or BMW X6, then the answer is obvious. But if you ask whats better, Lamorghini or Ferrari, its more about the taste and your personal preference that scores in points.
I have a lot of fun and pleasure just from experiencing all these great builds!
@@k4syx Right, and also certain speakers match well with certain amps, of course. Thanks again for your work and your constant replies.
I built a different musical fidelity a1 clone. Do you hear any humming noise while it is idle?
Dead silent, no sounds whatsoever. Also, clean and silent on max volume when idle. Probably should've mentioned that in the video, important point!
@@k4syx 👍
If its just a power amplifier and there is no pre amp are the knobs on the front purely decorative?
It's power amp with two pots added in line right after RCAs to attenuate input signal, so no preamp stage :)
@@k4syx Good to know, thanks. Do you think it might pair well with the SOUNDARTIST LS5/9 its 86db at 8ohm?
@@zenboy2000 should be fine, but remember this is just 20W per channel so no disco listening levels with less sensitive speakers.
Pozdrawiam. Czy ten klon MF A1 poradzi sobie z JBL Studio 270 ( 8 Ohm , 88 dB ) ? Zależy mi na jakości dźwięku , a nie na głośności. Z góry dziękuję za odpowiedź.
I think so, though it would be close call. But its current efficient so as long as you wont listen at rave party levels you should be fine :)
How did you identify this amp with the MF A1?
It's quite popular build with power stage only built based on available schematic by BRZHifi. They seem to make quite a lot of different clones (not always 1:1 builds) that have patents expired
Hello when you are expecting to show us the differences between the fake cables, I can't wait to see it .. Thank you ❤
Soon :) I need to get a few days off to record everything I have lined up.
20 watt class A, only for 90 db plus efficiency speakers. IE desktop duty for computer perfect.
Do you know anyone who could tell if this could be modded with true xlr balanced input?
Interesting idea! The original A1 was designed as single ended, but this is just power output stage here, so maybe, maybe?
Can anyone explain how to connect two MF A1 amplifiers to a pair of speakers? Thanks
Hi! Ive explained that in the other comment from you, in pot bypass video. Check it out!
Hello friend
I have a question?
When i run 2 hours plus its too hot . Is there any heat protection builtin there?
@@maxrider2887 Hi! What's the actual temperature? Have you measured it? Mine was running for like more than a week with temperature as I described in the review (don't remember the value now but it was ok). Class A runs hot, but this one was quite ok even for very long sessions.
Maybe you are overloading it with some low impedance speakers? Remember it's a low powered baby amp :)
@@k4syx my speaker is Dynaudio emit 20 86db.Temperature may be 40•c +- not too high it can touch for 30/40 sec. I scared about the ic . If it will breakdown.
@@maxrider2887 40C its literally nothing for class A :)
@@k4syx that’s mean continuously play 3 or 4 hours.
@@maxrider2887 that's perfectly fine, you're ok
Is this and the Brzhifi Fax A1 is same?
@@maxrider2887 this clone is made by BRZHifi
@@k4syx thank again is this standard version?
@@maxrider2887 are there any other than this one? I guess it's "standard" :)
is this a huge upgrade from the PMA 720 from 1989?
I haven't heard the PMA so unfortunately I can't reliable answer that... Original amplifiers dating back to 89 can probably have capacitor problems by now - worth checking this out.
@@k4syx yeah I am going to recap when it gives problems, still noise free atm.
@@k4syx If you look at a picture of the circuit it looks pretty high quality compared to moden amps. probably due to outdated circuitry though haha.
@@StagnantMizuI think you should also look for changes in frequency response as it may change with drying caps but I'm sure you are aware of that, so just a side note here:)
@@k4syx No devices to measure that accurately. as long as it sounds good enough to give me goosebumps which most systems dont do I am happy with it.
Can you use two of those as monoblocks?
@@anything4 I guess so, why not. Good idea! Though then I would definitely recommend bypassing volume control - check my video on that.
@@k4syx awesome. Thanks!
How about a review of a first watt clone available at DIY audio?
If I can get my hands on it, sure :)
I'm not a pro reviewer, I just review things that I get for me or family. If I'll have one or someone nearby will get one, then sure!
Edit: There is an instructional video on bypassing the volume pots. watch?v=nkxfpDr2su4
Could you please speak more about which part we would need to purchase to bypass the volume pots and connect the two leads WITHOUT soldering?
@@dbot2006 There's a separate video on that with disassembly instructions! :)
@@k4syx I just noticed this other video and came back to delete my question but I'll leave it up for anyone else that is wondering. Thank you!
Now are the parts good quality?
@@rolandd5397 yes these are regular parts exactly the same as you can get via Mouser or PartsExpress. Nothing fancy and nothing suspicious. The beauty of electronic design is that parts are always cheap (unless some exotic capacitor brand). The expensive things are chassis and transformers.
How about this vs D5 Pro for jbl 4349 speakers?
JBL recommends 25-200W amp for these so D5PRO.
Bought one of these for c.£165 recently. So far, I prefer my existing class D power amp, but maybe the A1 needs a good deal more running in than the 20 hours or so it's had to date. Don't know exactly what it is, but I'd say it's not as airy or as good at soundstage and imaging. And boy, does it run hot! Which makes me wonder how much electricity I'm using, how much that costs and what the long-term reliability might be.
These are just initial impressions. MIght change eventually.
Leave it running for like 150h. 20h - its just slowly waking from the warehouse sleep ;)
D class will be more economical, but all in all MFA1 is not that expensive when it comes to electricity bills.
@@k4syx Thanks. It will be quite a long elapsed time because I run it on average about 2 hrs per day -- but I will take your word for it and see how it works out. 🙂
@@johncallaghan3097 lol yes indeed it will be long :)
@@k4syx OK - So I decided to speed up the breaking-in process by playing it for 6-8 hours a day. It's now at around 40 hours in total and it's beginning to loosen up. No longer is there a vague, rather annoying sense that the sound is being "sandpapered", and imagery has opened up a bit. There's a noticeable improvement in tone richness and it's getting generally more enjoyable.
I listen to quite a lot of Acapella tracks -- Home Free, Voiceplay, Pentatonics, the Bass Gang and so on. Today I thoroughly enjoyed listening to such tracks and noted especially the tunefulness of the bass singers. Will be interesting to continue listening as it burns in and see if/how it gets even better!
@@johncallaghan3097 it will get even better. Vocals on this one are really, really good!
Great review again. But two important questions I do have: about which other amp you are talking exactly, I can't hear due to ... well sound perhaps. :-) Can you give the exact type? And two: how much electricity does it consume than really? How much wattage at 230 Volt? Greetings again from the Netherlands. 🙂
I know, I know :)
I'm trying though!
I've been in Rotterdam and Amsterdam a few times on business trips - greetings! :)
As for the amp that would be Musical Fidelity A1 or DartZeel clone I was referring to (what timestamp are we talking here?)
As for power consumed let me check and get back to you :)
Ah ok. 🙂@@k4syx
@@onnonugteren2935 62.5W when playing with maximum volume (6Ohm nominal speaker load) and 63.8W idle with minimum volume. So more or less stable power consumption regardless of actual usage. Class A heater. 50C on the fins and 51C on the transistors, so not bad at all.
Ah thank you. That's complete and helpful. 🙂@@k4syx Nowadays it's expansive to use 60 Watts constantly, so as you said it has its price. Greetings again.
@@onnonugteren2935
Are ye serious ?
That YT channel is about the stuff that costs a fraction of the original ones and you're moaning about the electricity cost of something which consumes 60W constantly 🤔
Don't you save a ton of the electricity bills by buying this cheap, Chinese ersatz ???
Must be you're joking
😂
Mozna się jakoś z Panem skontaktować ?
Tak, w opisie kanału jest adres e-mail :)
@@k4syx "Ookej"
Are you noticed that the high frequency not as open and airy. I find it its too dry , not smooth, most like harsh.
@@maxrider2887 no, it's open, airy and smooth. For how long had you been running it in already?
@@k4syx Almost 20 days daily play around 3 hours plus. My high frequency is too harsh. Any solution to solve this my speakers is Dynaudio Emit 20.
Thanks
Dont toe the speakers towards you. Let them face to the Front instead. If not done yet it should make a serious difference. Also room acoustic treatment in general and speaker placement.
Is it hot like the original A1?
@@thanhnguyenchau1535 I think a little less, but it does get really warm