You might consider adopting a couple of simple techniques........masking tape boundaries to control overspread on margins and push through on other side of seams, cover your wooden clamping blocks with tape (time spent on good prep is never time wasted). Using heavy duty ziplock plastic bags as piping bags to help precisely fill seams and gaps can also help. Maybe a wetter/thicker base resin layer to ensure bonding to the foam and help saturation of the matting layer with potentially less air bubbles. When removing double gloves, take the first dirty glove off and hold in the other hand then as you remove the dirty glove on the other hand it unfolds inside out over the first dirty glove.....leaving a neat contained ball of glove with all contaminants contained inside layer and clean on outside. These are just a couple of simple tips that could help you in the project (....not trying to be condesending).
Once you get a handle on what size and type of fasteners you are going to need, either find a fastener store in the area or shop on line. One of my favorites is Albany Fasteners. Good selection, including stainless. FREE shipping on ored over $100 !
All solid advice. Might ad that work space arranged for work flows helps a bunch as well. Three 4x8 sheets of plywood set length wise on a low frame would help as a cutting table. It would also be a good time to invest in robust cutting shears with the ability to sharpen the blades. The ones made for cutting sheet tin in automotive repair shops work well. We use them for carbon as well. This is a great build M&J have this :-)
looking good and if you only have one or two bubbles on that long run you have to be happy with the first run. Can I suggest mocking up a dispenser for the fibre glass some plywood sides and a if you put sand inside a peice of pvc pipe and seal the ends it will make running the material much easier and practical. You must be excited that you're actually putting the the structure together permanently. Look forward to seeing the next installment. stay safe J.
This kit is really starting to build confidence in me, looks like you made a solid choice in manufacturer. Your DIY skills are starting to show as well. Really jazzed to follow and watch it all come together. Thanks for taking the time to explain to your viewers all the details, you are both really great at that. Cheers .... Jess I get the sense you are one positive person. Makes it more enjoyable to watch rather then seeing someone drag their butt around for 25 minutes!
Even as a regular viewer from the beginning I went back to the start of your Elements build and heartily suggest to your new viewers that they do the same and just be prepared to be mesmerized at the work ethic you two are capable of. I enjoyed every episode again as I did the first time round. I have total faith in yer ability and conviction to get this job done. Stay Safe & Stay on Coarse !!
You both have always been so meticulous in your boat building and repairs. This will also be an awesome boat build what we will all enjoy watching and learning along the way.
Hey Matt and Jessica ! Enjoying your build, can I suggest you watch another builder with a professional background in building composite craft (2 Channels) called "Life On The Hulls" and "The Composites Shop" ? Ross builds composite kayaks professionally, and has been building a catamaran from the original builder's moulds which he purchased. He has many years in composites and has learned/innovated many ways of expediting the bonding and finishing steps which you will be doing across hundreds of feet of joints in the boat. For example, on the filling of the 1st joint, you could have placed the filler/bonding mat'l in a plastic bag to pipe like cake frosting into the joint and swept it flush much faster than applying with scraper/trowel. He has many videos detailing things you will be attempting in the future. I'm sure you'll learn a lot from his videos.
I must say that these are the first boat building or repair videos that look forward to watching. I usually fast forward or skip them. I am really fascinated because i have never seen this type of build. Keep up the good work.
This build process is so interesting! I hope the brand will sponsor you guys back some funds as it is great advertising and showing there product for future buyers 😃
In our reveal video, we did mention that we get commission from the company if anyone buys a Max Cruise and used us as a reference. 😉. They're a great company and we're very happy to be working with them.
It's great to see things progressing so painlessly! (Or at least on camera it looks pretty painless so far.) I'm really enjoying Matt's explanations on the processes, materials, and engineering of the build. He sure is good at breaking all this down into layman's terms that are easily understood! I'll be watching and learning the whole way along!!! :-D
I was a bit Skypictial when I Seen the Unloading Vid , I Thought What a Prefab Cat , But Your Certainly Done your recearch and Are verry Methodical about the Way your both Going about it , Can"t wait too see it come together Best of Luck
M&J at night do you all dream of a massive flat level concrete floored building ? Overhead gantry, work tables, Tellehandler, forklift etc. Great video. And a balcony lounge over for fans to pay to watch. Helping pay for build !
Looks good ,enjoy the ride ,weight ok over worries I think.however gota love the attention to detail Matt. Really enjoying your build sofar.its hard not to have my own ideas while wacthing. What a trip for u both to build her.no stress im sure.forgivness is the way to keep the love alive.looking forward to ur next show.blessings
Hi Matt and Jess, like everyone else I am going to strongly suggest once again that you get some good gel kneepads. I am an old contractor and I know of what I speak. Your young knees may not hurt now but 30 years from now they’re going to let you know just how much damage you did to them on this project! Really enjoying watching the new build, cheers
The first bonding is a big step. Great job. You mention that you have to remove a bunch of gelcoat. Not sure if you were going to grind it off or what. Davey from Barefoot Sail and Dive has this fantastic tool for removing large areas of gelcoat with a lot of control and saving a lot of time. If you look up the “Game changer” episode from December 5 2020 it is a demo of this fantastic tool.
I would build a rack for your fiberglass rolls out of 2x4's, plywood and metal pipes. You can make it a little wider than your widest roll and mount the glass rolls horizontally so you can just roll off lengths as needed. I put wheels on mine so I could easily move it to whatever part of the shop or hull I was working on at the time. Also by raising the roll to standing work level, you won't tear up your back as much bending over. Obviously you'll be using alot of acetone but a less toxic and less expensive alternative is white vinegar. It worked for epoxy but I'm not sure about vinylester resins. This would be for cleaning tools and non-important surfaces. If you need to bond 2 surfaces or tape something, you'll have to clean/prep with acetone. This is getting exciting. I love work - I could sit and watch it all day....
Really impressed by your knowledge in the metric system, you spent your time in lockdown when in Plymouth to good use 😀. This is going to be a great project for you doing it and all of us to enjoy it take shape. Good on you both one massively successful Channel! Hello from a little town on the English Riviera 🇬🇧
Absolutely demanding challenge you two have taken on. After watching you work magic on the aluminum boat. I have no doubt this will mature into your amazing 3rd sailing vessel. Prayers and best wishes, stay healthy.
Progress! I have a bunch of painting gear from TCPGlobal (mixing cups), and I have electric scissors similar to yours. Also, THANK YOU for following the designer’s plans and not “improving” their design. I’ve seen many an amateur built aircraft (Experimental, over 30,000 of them in the USA alone) that were way over design weight due to the builder “improving” it. Heading over to Patreon now.
I am completely engaged in watching your videos. Listening to every detail and cant wait for the next one. So inpressed with how many others are engaged in this build as well. You have lots of support here. God speed
Matt . You may find that heating your work tent with a propane heater will cause condensation on the inside walls of your work tent . This will depend how cool it is outside and how warm you want the temperature inside your tent . If this does happen it will start raining inside your work area and this may cause you some issues. You may want to ask a expert about this possible problem I am enjoying your videos and good luck with your project. Bob C.
Man started watching you guy cutting that glass. Man my first boss used to say 5% Preperation creates 50% comfort. Good you are going to get benches soon. I was going to recommed getting some 3M full face masks but looks like you might have some. The next thing I would recomend is Tyvec suits they really keep the glass out. I wear laytex gloves under normal lite working gloves. The latex keeps the glass out of your hands and the work gloves protect the laytex gloves. Thanks for making the videos
If you haven't already considered it, you'll be spending a lot of time on your knees with this construction. Knee pads work wonders. Ask me how I know . Building my own boat (wood) and my knees thanked me after I got the pads. :)
Scafold pipe and plywood supports to take that fiberglass roll of the floor and roll out easier. You woll probably need to build a rack for all the different types of matting that you will use. Crack on as Davie would say.
Great video. I am looking forward to this build. Your descriptions of the work is going to add to the workload. The syncing was not an issue to worry about. It was fine.
I really enjoyed your build series and am impressed with your skills and how well the kit seems to go together! Keep up the good work and I look forward to follow the rest of the journey 😀
Parabéns pra vcs! Estou adorando seu canal. Nunca tinha visto esse tipo dd construção e montagem, pra mim, muito interessante, aguardo novos vídeos, abraços.
i would of cut a tiny hole in the bubbles and squeezed the air out and go over with that roller again. nice work so far. i like how you went from ryobi to dewalt on this build
It was imperfections under the glass that caused the bubble not trapped air. We hurried from the final filler/resin to glassing before the filler had time to gel. This caused it to run and the void is what caused the bubble. It's what happens when you rush :) -Matt
We were laughing about that today. We have a set, but Matt chose not to wear them because 'he didn't want to get them dirty'. 😂😂 Not the most thought out plan. Won't let that happen again!
If you are intending to hold the joint from tearing apart then the unidirectional fiberglass must surely have its main strands across the joint, not along it. Only the resin will be holding the joint together.
Yeh! I realised that as I watched the whole episode and did post another comment acknowledging my mistake. You have such an awesome project and have set up so well, but cutting the unidirectional strips then preparing to glass the joint was confusing and I jumped too soon. I look forward to your future episodes in this fascinating build.
Strength over a moderate additional weight on my cat. Multi-directional cloth and epoxy resin well wetted to create a bullet proof bond. Low hull flex and strength for additional speed and precise handling. The mast and rigging will put additional stress on the structure. Pacific ocean.
Love this channel, especially now with the build. "MATT" follow Jessica's lead!!!!! Wear knee protection!! I know they are cumbersome but trust me, I was stupid years ago and am paying the price now!! Cheers
Take some plywood and make four pyramid pieces out of the 4''/8' sheets, then get 3/4 inch black pipe and cut it an inch winder than the fiberglass. Then take threaded stock and make it longer than the roll and plywood plus the fiberglass with two locking nuts and drill holes in the top corner of the pyramid pieces. Push the pipe and threaded rod through the fiberglass rolls and you will have a nice rolling station for two different rolls. It makes it a much easier way to cut your glass cloth. Also before you start, rub dry corn starch all over your bodies so the fiberglass shards won't get into your skin pores. Corn starch keeps the fiber glass from sticking into your skin pores. I also use dish soap on my hands, I rub my hands with wet dish soap and let them dry (about five minutes) then you can wash your hands before taking off your Tyvex suites and you will not carry any fiberglass shards into the shower. I am sixty eight years old and have been working in composite boat building since I was twelve years old. Also, put peal ply over all of the length of your fiberglass patches. It will make an excellent bonding surface for new fiberglass wider strips.
woticutting the glass get a metal pole to go through the middle of it and couple of saw horses you can screw timber blocks onto to hold the pole on the saw horse's, it would allow you to pull out then cut etc and repeat, you could also go roll to roll just cutting think the old reel to reel film machine idea or old school tape with only the 2 reel's all off the ground to roll. You have enough back breaking work to not want to roll glass on the ground!
Get a metal pipe, run it through the fiberglass roll & set the ends up on a few of those wooden blocks. Then you can roll out your glass sheets for cutting as needed.
Interesting... this seems like a great way to build a cat. Its looks well thought out by the designers and looks like your assembly approach will work out great! I thoght it would be a lot more difficult to line it all up. Great job... Looking forward to the progression.
A solution for the birds is a product called hot foot that you can buy at Ace Hardware or Amazon. It is a product you put on possible roosting places that make the birds feel like they are getting a hot foot and they will not roost in the areas that this product is placed. It does not harm the birds. It worked wonders for me when working at several airport hangers in getting rid of the pesky birds without hurting them.
Now the real fun begins. Make yourselves a table guys, gets everything up off the ground and you can work at a natural height. A half day building a work table is well worth it! You can either get an Owl to scare the birds away or turn the fans on......:)
Everything looks great but did I miss you roughing up the bond site before glassing in? Very important for proper adhesion . Cant wait for the next chapter.
When you need to do a 3-layer x 150mm wide lay-up, you can just cut a 450mm wide strip. Position and wet the first layer, fold over, wet the second, fold over, you get it.
Can you try the old paper hanger trick on fiberglass air pockets. Split the bubble with a sharp knife and then blade on resin over the cut to re-adhere the glass?
It looks like your Fiberglas Matting is Uni-Directional. Strand Alignment should cross the Joints not with the Joint. You will have very little strength if it is running along Joint. Just Check this. Best of Luck with the Build. Great to see a Build from Start. Thanks for Sharing this. Love your channel.
Hey Patrick! If you check our our narration during the glassing process, you'll hear us mention we're using a 12 oz double biased cloth for the job. The task of cutting unidirectional at the beginning was just busy work while we were waiting for other supplies to arrive. 😉👍
Looking good. Now go buy yourself some nice gel knee pads and work trousers with knee pockets. You'll thank goodness you did later on when you can't stand up.😃
You might consider adding a little extra weight if you go and check out sailing zingaro and sailing parlay both catamarans are coming apart at the seams at sea
Matt-Should you be using biaxial(bidirectional) cloth instead of what appears to be unidirectional cloth that you are using? The mode of failure with uni glass will be along the glass fiber direction which also parallels the seam you are trying to reinforce. Bidirectional glass handles loads in both directions. Unidirectional glass is intended for loads applied in only one direction.
The unidirectional shown at the beginning of the video was only being cut because our other supplies had not arrived yet and we needed something to do. If you listen to the narration at 19:50, you'll hear that what was put down at the end of the video was a 12 oz double bias cloth. 😉👍
I'd be exactly like you - almost overwhelming temptation to add a couple more layers of fiberglass in that trough. Are you ever gonna be able to not worry about it? Me: (Laying in my bunk at anchor at 2:30AM during first squall.... Oh dammit....I can't believe I didn't put down that one extra layer of glass back in Episode 181... I hope we don't snap clean in half... Then out of bed frantically pulling up floorboards to check for cracks... LOL ... I would have thought that laying the glass 90 degrees the other way would have been a stronger joint though. Am I incorrect in that thought?
This glass work shouldn't be what holds this together.... It's the unidirectional and bulkheads doing the majority of the work. If you use 0/90 biax, then half the glass is inline with the seam and doing nothing. With DB, all strains are working. Matt
@@jackpatteeuw9244 watch again. 20:10 They did use double bias (+45/-45) for this seam, not the same unidirectional cloth that they were cutting earlier in the vid.
I would suggest you wear googles or safety glasses when mixing the catalyst into the resin. I've had it splash into my eyes and had to rinse with acetone. Not Fun ! Good Luck with the project.
Its called putty, the mixture of silica and resin. Vinyl esther resin will expand and shrink its called exothermic reaction. You can use chop stand mat to fill any void or you can also use putty it will seal the surface.
A lovely morning watching a catamaran being built...
You might consider adopting a couple of simple techniques........masking tape boundaries to control overspread on margins and push through on other side of seams, cover your wooden clamping blocks with tape (time spent on good prep is never time wasted). Using heavy duty ziplock plastic bags as piping bags to help precisely fill seams and gaps can also help. Maybe a wetter/thicker base resin layer to ensure bonding to the foam and help saturation of the matting layer with potentially less air bubbles. When removing double gloves, take the first dirty glove off and hold in the other hand then as you remove the dirty glove on the other hand it unfolds inside out over the first dirty glove.....leaving a neat contained ball of glove with all contaminants contained inside layer and clean on outside. These are just a couple of simple tips that could help you in the project (....not trying to be condesending).
Once you get a handle on what size and type of fasteners you are going to need, either find a fastener store in the area or shop on line. One of my favorites is Albany Fasteners. Good selection, including stainless. FREE shipping on ored over $100 !
@Bunyip Dan sounds like a fiber glass guy.
It’s amazing how quickly you learn these tips naturally once you start working with glass and resin.
All solid advice. Might ad that work space arranged for work flows helps a bunch as well. Three 4x8 sheets of plywood set length wise on a low frame would help as a cutting table. It would also be a good time to invest in robust cutting shears with the ability to sharpen the blades. The ones made for cutting sheet tin in automotive repair shops work well. We use them for carbon as well. This is a great build M&J have this :-)
The only thing I could add, is a fin roller will help get out air bubbles. A time saver.
looking good and if you only have one or two bubbles on that long run you have to be happy with the first run. Can I suggest mocking up a dispenser for the fibre glass some plywood sides and a if you put sand inside a peice of pvc pipe and seal the ends it will make running the material much easier and practical. You must be excited that you're actually putting the the structure together permanently. Look forward to seeing the next installment. stay safe J.
This kit is really starting to build confidence in me, looks like you made a solid choice in manufacturer. Your DIY skills are starting to show as well. Really jazzed to follow and watch it all come together. Thanks for taking the time to explain to your viewers all the details, you are both really great at that. Cheers .... Jess I get the sense you are one positive person. Makes it more enjoyable to watch rather then seeing someone drag their butt around for 25 minutes!
Even as a regular viewer from the beginning I went back to the start of your Elements build and heartily suggest to your new viewers that they do the same and just be prepared to be mesmerized at the work ethic you two are capable of. I enjoyed every episode again as I did the first time round. I have total faith in yer ability and conviction to get this job done. Stay Safe & Stay on Coarse !!
You both have always been so meticulous in your boat building and repairs. This will also be an awesome boat build what we will all enjoy watching and learning along the way.
Hey Matt and Jessica ! Enjoying your build, can I suggest you watch another builder with a professional background in building composite craft (2 Channels) called "Life On The Hulls" and "The Composites Shop" ? Ross builds composite kayaks professionally, and has been building a catamaran from the original builder's moulds which he purchased. He has many years in composites and has learned/innovated many ways of expediting the bonding and finishing steps which you will be doing across hundreds of feet of joints in the boat. For example, on the filling of the 1st joint, you could have placed the filler/bonding mat'l in a plastic bag to pipe like cake frosting into the joint and swept it flush much faster than applying with scraper/trowel. He has many videos detailing things you will be attempting in the future. I'm sure you'll learn a lot from his videos.
I must say that these are the first boat building or repair videos that look forward to watching. I usually fast forward or skip them. I am really fascinated because i have never seen this type of build. Keep up the good work.
Damn the worst part about this video was ...... it ended! So glad I found your channel this is a really cool build!
Good skills! Your a confident man, Matt, talking to the camera with a mixed pot next to you!! Go, go go, guys, looking forward to next episode.
Well no one will know their cat like you will that is for sure. I like what you are doing.
This build process is so interesting! I hope the brand will sponsor you guys back some funds as it is great advertising and showing there product for future buyers 😃
I suspect, but don't know, that they may have been able to negotiate a deal when buying it ... I hope so!
100% they are fools if they do NOT promote the HELL out of this effort. ! Can you say on the payroll!
In our reveal video, we did mention that we get commission from the company if anyone buys a Max Cruise and used us as a reference. 😉. They're a great company and we're very happy to be working with them.
@@MJSailing I fervently hope both you and they do well out of the deal
A piece of pvc tube and plywood ends you can make a mount for the large fibreglass rolls so that they roll out easily and freely. Looking good
It's great to see things progressing so painlessly! (Or at least on camera it looks pretty painless so far.) I'm really enjoying Matt's explanations on the processes, materials, and engineering of the build. He sure is good at breaking all this down into layman's terms that are easily understood! I'll be watching and learning the whole way along!!! :-D
I was a bit Skypictial when I Seen the Unloading Vid , I Thought What a Prefab Cat , But Your Certainly Done your recearch and Are verry Methodical about the Way your both Going about it ,
Can"t wait too see it come together Best of Luck
M&J at night do you all dream of a massive flat level concrete floored building ? Overhead gantry, work tables, Tellehandler, forklift etc. Great video. And a balcony lounge over for fans to pay to watch. Helping pay for build !
Looks good ,enjoy the ride ,weight ok over worries I think.however gota love the attention to detail Matt. Really enjoying your build sofar.its hard not to have my own ideas while wacthing. What a trip for u both to build her.no stress im sure.forgivness is the way to keep the love alive.looking forward to ur next show.blessings
super videoes, ,,dont forget to protect your knees when glassing, you will need them all your life,, keep up the god work
Your attention to detail and patience cutting all that fiberglass is nothing short of amazing. Behind every strong fiberglass joint is a great woman!
I am in complete awe of you two. The scope and magnitude of your catamaran project is truly awesome! Be happy, be safe.
After every day it is important to tidy and clean the work area. A place for everything and everything in its place.
I have no idea what You are doing but it looks like you certainly do so I wish you both every success,keep up the good work
Yes very impressed with the work guys .. you look like pros at this
So impressed with you both! It's great to see such a perfect combination of intelligence, skill, focus, dedication and love at work!
I'm so impressed with you guys. This is quite the project. This is so interesting to watch it come together. Ya'll are rockstar yacht builders!
We are too! Its looks amazing already and i have confidence in both of them that it going to be a very well built cat
I just LOVE that closing music!!! It is your signature. I know I'm watching an authentic MJ video when I hear that. Have a Fantabulous Friday evening!
Great show! Shouldn’t the glass fibers run perpendicular to the cut rather than parallel? (I hope I’m wrong here!)
I also think so
Hi Matt and Jess, like everyone else I am going to strongly suggest once again that you get some good gel kneepads. I am an old contractor and I know of what I speak. Your young knees may not hurt now but 30 years from now they’re going to let you know just how much damage you did to them on this project! Really enjoying watching the new build, cheers
The first bonding is a big step. Great job.
You mention that you have to remove a bunch of gelcoat. Not sure if you were going to grind it off or what.
Davey from Barefoot Sail and Dive has this fantastic tool for removing large areas of gelcoat with a lot of control and saving a lot of time. If you look up the “Game changer” episode from December 5 2020 it is a demo of this fantastic tool.
I would build a rack for your fiberglass rolls out of 2x4's, plywood and metal pipes. You can make it a little wider than your widest roll and mount the glass rolls horizontally so you can just roll off lengths as needed. I put wheels on mine so I could easily move it to whatever part of the shop or hull I was working on at the time. Also by raising the roll to standing work level, you won't tear up your back as much bending over.
Obviously you'll be using alot of acetone but a less toxic and less expensive alternative is white vinegar. It worked for epoxy but I'm not sure about vinylester resins. This would be for cleaning tools and non-important surfaces. If you need to bond 2 surfaces or tape something, you'll have to clean/prep with acetone.
This is getting exciting. I love work - I could sit and watch it all day....
Your attention to the details is impressive and fun to watch!
Great job Jessica and Matt. That is going to be very nice.
Really impressed by your knowledge in the metric system, you spent your time in lockdown when in Plymouth to good use 😀.
This is going to be a great project for you doing it and all of us to enjoy it take shape.
Good on you both one massively successful Channel!
Hello from a little town on the English Riviera 🇬🇧
Absolutely demanding challenge you two have taken on.
After watching you work magic on the aluminum boat.
I have no doubt this will mature into your amazing 3rd sailing vessel.
Prayers and best wishes, stay healthy.
Progress! I have a bunch of painting gear from TCPGlobal (mixing cups), and I have electric scissors similar to yours. Also, THANK YOU for following the designer’s plans and not “improving” their design. I’ve seen many an amateur built aircraft (Experimental, over 30,000 of them in the USA alone) that were way over design weight due to the builder “improving” it. Heading over to Patreon now.
I am completely engaged in watching your videos. Listening to every detail and cant wait for the next one. So inpressed with how many others are engaged in this build as well. You have lots of support here. God speed
Looking good. Nice attention to detail.
Matt . You may find that heating your work tent with a propane heater will cause condensation on the inside walls of your work tent . This will depend how cool it is outside and how warm you want the temperature inside your tent . If this does happen it will start raining inside your work area and this may cause you some issues. You may want to ask a expert about this possible problem
I am enjoying your videos and good luck with your project. Bob C.
Great 👍 catch on the saw blade and center cut.
Most people would have over looked that.
Good job.
Carry on Crew
Ps. The Dewalt 20v are great.
I've been thinking about building my own boat. Nice to see you at it.
Great job guys! GOD speed. JC
I'm jealous, what a great video, memories came flooding back. And the music 👍 whilst I am trapped here on cold and windy mud island 😢
Man started watching you guy cutting that glass. Man my first boss used to say 5% Preperation creates 50% comfort. Good you are going to get benches soon. I was going to recommed getting some 3M full face masks but looks like you might have some. The next thing I would recomend is Tyvec suits they really keep the glass out. I wear laytex gloves under normal lite working gloves. The latex keeps the glass out of your hands and the work gloves protect the laytex gloves. Thanks for making the videos
Great accomplishment, its becoming permanent now. Good luck
If you haven't already considered it, you'll be spending a lot of time on your knees with this construction. Knee pads work wonders. Ask me how I know . Building my own boat (wood) and my knees thanked me after I got the pads. :)
I agree, I've been stressing about Matt's knees too!
I recommend volleyball knee pads. Easy to slip on and comfortable for boatwork. The brand i like is muzano
Scafold pipe and plywood supports to take that fiberglass roll of the floor and roll out easier. You woll probably need to build a rack for all the different types of matting that you will use. Crack on as Davie would say.
Great video. I am looking forward to this build. Your descriptions of the work is going to add to the workload. The syncing was not an issue to worry about. It was fine.
Thanks for sharing your project. Have a nice Easter
I really enjoyed your build series and am impressed with your skills and how well the kit seems to go together! Keep up the good work and I look forward to follow the rest of the journey 😀
Parabéns pra vcs! Estou adorando seu canal.
Nunca tinha visto esse tipo dd construção e montagem, pra mim, muito interessante, aguardo novos vídeos, abraços.
i would of cut a tiny hole in the bubbles and squeezed the air out and go over with that roller again. nice work so far. i like how you went from ryobi to dewalt on this build
It was imperfections under the glass that caused the bubble not trapped air. We hurried from the final filler/resin to glassing before the filler had time to gel. This caused it to run and the void is what caused the bubble. It's what happens when you rush :) -Matt
So so hard not to make things better when you are already there. Great job so far Matt And Jess
Respect for the massive job you've taken on with such confidence.
U might want to get some knee pads! Your older selves will thank you!
We were laughing about that today. We have a set, but Matt chose not to wear them because 'he didn't want to get them dirty'. 😂😂 Not the most thought out plan. Won't let that happen again!
Heals up likely knows where to get light weight cheap ones.
Great job guys !!!
If you are intending to hold the joint from tearing apart then the unidirectional fiberglass must surely have its main strands across the joint, not along it. Only the resin will be holding the joint together.
The unidirectional was not used for the bridge deck, that was 12 oz double biased.
Yeh! I realised that as I watched the whole episode and did post another comment acknowledging my mistake. You have such an awesome project and have set up so well, but cutting the unidirectional strips then preparing to glass the joint was confusing and I jumped too soon. I look forward to your future episodes in this fascinating build.
this is such a great video. It's also helping me with my fiberglass work that I need to do...bravo!
Good luck keep following your dreams one day at a time you can an do it
Lots of advice in the comments that I am sure is helpful for you below. I see a lot of hard work and a great video, thanks for sharing (gets our vote)
Strength over a moderate additional weight on my cat. Multi-directional cloth and epoxy resin well wetted to create a bullet proof bond. Low hull flex and strength for additional speed and precise handling. The mast and rigging will put additional stress on the structure. Pacific ocean.
Love this channel, especially now with the build. "MATT" follow Jessica's lead!!!!! Wear knee protection!! I know they are cumbersome but trust me, I was stupid years ago and am paying the price now!! Cheers
Soo impressed by your project!! Best of luck!
This is going to be one sick boat
I would be a nervous wreck and full of self doubt trying to align and bond these pieces. Good on ya'll for making it look easy-ish
One can get experience by using some scrap fibreglass before the real work starts.
Take some plywood and make four pyramid pieces out of the 4''/8' sheets, then get 3/4 inch black pipe and cut it an inch winder than the fiberglass. Then take threaded stock and make it longer than the roll and plywood plus the fiberglass with two locking nuts and drill holes in the top corner of the pyramid pieces. Push the pipe and threaded rod through the fiberglass rolls and you will have a nice rolling station for two different rolls. It makes it a much easier way to cut your glass cloth. Also before you start, rub dry corn starch all over your bodies so the fiberglass shards won't get into your skin pores. Corn starch keeps the fiber glass from sticking into your skin pores. I also use dish soap on my hands, I rub my hands with wet dish soap and let them dry (about five minutes) then you can wash your hands before taking off your Tyvex suites and you will not carry any fiberglass shards into the shower. I am sixty eight years old and have been working in composite boat building since I was twelve years old. Also, put peal ply over all of the length of your fiberglass patches. It will make an excellent bonding surface for new fiberglass wider strips.
For over the Spacerblocks. Epoxy does not bond to Plastic wrap, cling film, plastic bags, therefore wrap the block in clinging foil.
woticutting the glass get a metal pole to go through the middle of it and couple of saw horses you can screw timber blocks onto to hold the pole on the saw horse's, it would allow you to pull out then cut etc and repeat, you could also go roll to roll just cutting think the old reel to reel film machine idea or old school tape with only the 2 reel's all off the ground to roll. You have enough back breaking work to not want to roll glass on the ground!
You want a longer level. Perhaps a couple of laser crosses that you keep up during the whole build for checks every morning (and evening).
Awesome job!
Like others, I'm impressed! Wow! You Go Guys!
Get a metal pipe, run it through the fiberglass roll & set the ends up on a few of those wooden blocks.
Then you can roll out your glass sheets for cutting as needed.
Espero ver vcs aqui no Brasil 👍👍👍
Love the videos ..good luck with everything!
Love this project!
Great video guys, really impressed.
Interesting... this seems like a great way to build a cat. Its looks well thought out by the designers and looks like your assembly approach will work out great! I thoght it would be a lot more difficult to line it all up. Great job... Looking forward to the progression.
Awesome, thanks for posting 👍
Exciting times!
cannot wait to see the end result!
I take my hat off to you TWO.
A solution for the birds is a product called hot foot that you can buy at Ace Hardware or Amazon. It is a product you put on possible roosting places that make the birds feel like they are getting a hot foot and they will not roost in the areas that this product is placed. It does not harm the birds. It worked wonders for me when working at several airport hangers in getting rid of the pesky birds without hurting them.
We've never heard of that product before, but that's good to know. We'll make sure to check it out. Thanks for the tip.
All these views, come on everyone hit the like button! The patience you all have is amazing. Can’t wait for next video.
Now the real fun begins. Make yourselves a table guys, gets everything up off the ground and you can work at a natural height. A half day building a work table is well worth it! You can either get an Owl to scare the birds away or turn the fans on......:)
Everything looks great but did I miss you roughing up the bond site before glassing in? Very important for proper adhesion . Cant wait for the next chapter.
Should be in there at the 19:15 mark. 😉
@@MJSailing some how i missed it. Good to know you didn't .
When you need to do a 3-layer x 150mm wide lay-up, you can just cut a 450mm wide strip. Position and wet the first layer, fold over, wet the second, fold over, you get it.
Can you try the old paper hanger trick on fiberglass air pockets. Split the bubble with a sharp knife and then blade on resin over the cut to re-adhere the glass?
It looks like your Fiberglas Matting is Uni-Directional. Strand Alignment should cross the Joints not with the Joint. You will have very little strength if it is running along Joint. Just Check this. Best of Luck with the Build. Great to see a Build from Start. Thanks for Sharing this. Love your channel.
Hey Patrick! If you check our our narration during the glassing process, you'll hear us mention we're using a 12 oz double biased cloth for the job. The task of cutting unidirectional at the beginning was just busy work while we were waiting for other supplies to arrive. 😉👍
@@MJSailing - Question, for what did you use the uni tapes that were cut length-wise?
Looking good. Now go buy yourself some nice gel knee pads and work trousers with knee pockets. You'll thank goodness you did later on when you can't stand up.😃
You might consider adding a little extra weight if you go and check out sailing zingaro and sailing parlay both catamarans are coming apart at the seams at sea
Fantastic job...congratulations.
Lookin good, you guys are crazy, but this is awesome.
Matt-Should you be using biaxial(bidirectional) cloth instead of what appears to be unidirectional cloth that you are using? The mode of failure with uni glass will be along the glass fiber direction which also parallels the seam you are trying to reinforce. Bidirectional glass handles loads in both directions. Unidirectional glass is intended for loads applied in only one direction.
The unidirectional shown at the beginning of the video was only being cut because our other supplies had not arrived yet and we needed something to do. If you listen to the narration at 19:50, you'll hear that what was put down at the end of the video was a 12 oz double bias cloth. 😉👍
@@MJSailing Whew! I did hear that, but wasn't sure by watching what you were laying down. It is hard to see the bias direction with my old eyes.
Make a little stand with a rod through the glass roll, then you can just reel it off. 😊
You should have tried using a grout piping bag lined with a plastic bag to force the bonding into the crack .Basically an large icing bag.
I'd be exactly like you - almost overwhelming temptation to add a couple more layers of fiberglass in that trough. Are you ever gonna be able to not worry about it? Me: (Laying in my bunk at anchor at 2:30AM during first squall.... Oh dammit....I can't believe I didn't put down that one extra layer of glass back in Episode 181... I hope we don't snap clean in half... Then out of bed frantically pulling up floorboards to check for cracks... LOL ... I would have thought that laying the glass 90 degrees the other way would have been a stronger joint though. Am I incorrect in that thought?
This glass work shouldn't be what holds this together.... It's the unidirectional and bulkheads doing the majority of the work.
If you use 0/90 biax, then half the glass is inline with the seam and doing nothing. With DB, all strains are working.
Matt
@@MJSailing I would want +45/-45 for long seams !
don't be a zingaroo...
@@jackpatteeuw9244 watch again. 20:10 They did use double bias (+45/-45) for this seam, not the same unidirectional cloth that they were cutting earlier in the vid.
@@jackpatteeuw9244 DB is double bias.... meaning 45/45 -Matt
Nice video! Nice to see some American's embracing mm
This is an amazing undertaking!! I’m intrigued by your drive to do this.
Where are you doing this?
We're doing this just outside of Annapolis Maryland.
I can't just watch one ep. So am going to skip a couple of weeks so this could be more satisficing.
I would suggest you wear googles or safety glasses when mixing the catalyst into the resin. I've had it splash into my eyes and had to rinse with acetone. Not Fun ! Good Luck with the project.
A flashing light will drive the birds out at night
Already starting to look like a boat, ain't it ...? 😂😂😂 Thanks for sharing!
Buona pasqua, or whatever You might wich each other over there ...
Its called putty, the mixture of silica and resin. Vinyl esther resin will expand and shrink its called exothermic reaction. You can use chop stand mat to fill any void or you can also use putty it will seal the surface.