@@SailingSVLynx I didn't say run out of steam. I was saying its a long long project. I know you will finish. If I were in your area I would help in winter since its way to hot for me in summer.
What's great about these early stages is you can really see your progress and it's exciting. Later on, when you are fairing a section for weeks, it gets hard to visualize your progress.
I really like the way you calmly deal with manufacturing issues like poor labelling or MDF grooves given this is the pilot build of a new design. Your calmness and problem-solving will both stand you in great stead for the whole build, and is great for DIY'ers like me watching on to learn whilst dreaming about following in your footsteps :)
Thanks! We know there will be hurdles along the way (many) so it doesn't do us any good to have a conniption fit, it's best just to solve them and move on to the next. :)
great progress! Regarding alignment of the temporary hull forms, it seems to me that it would have been easy for the designer to add alignment holes through which a laser could be used to double and triple check everything. The system of slots to hold and align it all is good, but as you've found, it's not perfect.
I love watching builds like this come together, and I love your approach at making it all work out. Cool guys building a boat, very large boat!! Keep up the great work, I am your newest subscriber. Jay from Pa.
For the cuts when cutting on form can you only cut the outside laminate and foam leaving back laminate intact, lower laminate should be able to bend at that point.
After some experimenting, we get a better twist (in areas that need it) by cutting all the way through. However, there are other sections of the hull where we will use kerfing.
Although I prefer monohull wooden sailboats but your sailboat is really beautiful I look forward to the smooth completion of everything and the early start of the global voyage.
I'm sorry, but you have introduced a huge weak spot into your hull at 24:53 by creating a massive stress concentration point. The offset you spread the cuts out is not nearly enough to eliminate the issue, taking into account the overall length of the hull. Plus you will grind those protruding edges down hence removing even more of upper fiberglass reinforcement. Your boat probably will not fold in two pieces, but that's the future cracking place and a water entrance point. Obviously you won't remove the planks already, so you will have to lay additional layers of fiberglass with a big overlap from the inside and from the outside. The weight of fiberglass should be higher than the original fiberglassing. I recommend a book called "Structures: Or Why Things Don't Fall Down" by J. E. Gordon. It's a good and helpful read in general.
The biscuit joint is part of the plans from a company that has made cats this way for 35 years, without a single failure. As for the protruding edges, we did notice that and fixed that issue after the dry fitting before epoxying the strips permanently. There are three layers still to be laminated over the top of the hulls before they are done. The original plans only called for fiberglass, which would have still be overengineered with hulls designed to be strong enough to be beached, but we increased the strength and impact resistance by changing to basalt fiber laminated layers.
Really interesting project (binge watched to this point) and since I’ve been following “Life on the Hulls” and “MJ Sailing” it will be good to throw this different version of building a cat into the mix . Having spent 43 years in civil engineering I really think you could well do with some diagonal bracing (just wires you can tension) between your first and last shade roof support beam and maybe some anchors onto that 40’ container as well as some extra weight or earth anchors on the other, don’t under estimate the lifting power of a good gust of wind 😀 or the damage that thing could do to your build. Cheers from NZ
I think that plastic provided shade will just tear / shred with any decent wind gusts, but it would be bad if that structure damaged the boat. Those commercial tent / arc things designed to span 2 x shipping containers - what wind strength are they rated to? I'm daydreaming about my own build . . .
There are already anchors attached to the two containers from the corners of the structure, plus additional ones on the other side, both not shown in the video. They were added a day later. Finally, two lines on one end of each tarp are set to 'break away' in a large gust of wind rather then lift the structure.
You add yourself extra work ,it will be fine go with strips from deck up tp keel as is done on strip canoes , further else you might use their trick for routing edges to lock it selves and not mentioned lot of extra structural strength ..... hull must be level with filler anyway and lot of sanding prior fiber glassing. oh well
We followed the manufacturer's recommendation on how to build their hulls, so we're confidant they will be fine. Schionning has been selling kits for 35 years and are known for their strong boats. But thanks for the suggestion.
It seems like very fast to build with strips like that - compared to wooden strips as RAN-sailing do- but I think there will be a lot sanding and fairing to get a good finish. . But one think as a kit - why dont they have forms for those essential parts and save a lot work. This will be much more work than MJ-sailings cat.
It will take a lot of fairing, no doubt. I wish they had cut the strips for us, but it only added a couple of days per hull, so not that big a deal. We would have loved to go with a Max Cruise 44, but it was just too small for our size crew and goals. I contacted Max Cruise, and though they sell a larger cat, they don't sell it in a kit and it was north of $800,000. But there is a silver lining, though more work, I got to design a lot of the details about the Solitaire 1520, so I get very close to my dream boat.
Hello, I do not speak very well English, so l speak French. So, très très gros projet et futur travail difficile en terme de tenue des formes avec ces petites lattes de PVC qui seront difficile a poncer ! En France, il y a quelques années nous avons construit un voilier en Polyester de 11m mais avec des panneaux de mousse PVC striées ( DAMICELL) de grandes dimensions et plus rapides à poser . Des lattes de bois auraient été plus simples et plus faciles à poncer pour le contrôle des formes avant pose des tissus de verre . Vous vous êtes lancés dans un projet titanesque...et avec un tel budget il était peut-être plus facile de trouver un catamaran d'occasion et à modifier ! alors bon courage à venir .
Nous avons cherché un bateau d'occasion à réparer, mais ils étaient trop chers. C'était beaucoup moins cher et nous obtenons un nouveau bateau. Si vous regardez la vidéo de la semaine dernière, nous en parlons. Merci d'avoir commenté !
viva france I prefer French sailing ships. But I prefer the French boats and cars from the last century. Has modern France lost its former romance? Ha ha Although Nelson won the naval battle, I still prefer the French fast warships of the Napoleonic era. I personally guess that he used this method to make templates and consider the possibility of mass production in the future. There is a limit to the number of repetitions of the plank template.
At what point do you glue the strips together? I've done a boat with duracore strips and glued the edge with thickened epoxy on the table. Then lifted it into place and screwed into the temp frames (bulkheads). My strips had only 7/8" width so we used round toothpicks between temp frames (if needed) to peg the strips to the next one. This took out some of the variations from strip to strip and helped reduce fairing. I'd love to see your project - I'm in Orange County.
Great progress! Death by a thousand cuts maybe? 😅 always amazes how quickly you learn to be more efficient. Maybe invest in a track saw or these cuts don’t need to be that exact?
We looked into track saws before starting, but it added time (moving the track each 10' and lining it back up) and cost (to buy). It turns out that the sled and guide we use on the saw works perfectly and we can run straight down the entire cut without any issue.
Nice progress! Will this be hull#1 when completed? I forget if you've mentioned this before. Also, just curious how Schionning provided the estimate for the lightship displacement? Seeing the strip planking process it is different from how other performance cats are built, and all of those slits/grooves are going to be filled with epoxy, adding weight and impacting performance. Manufacturers building hulls off molds are able to use thermo-formed foam panels that contour to the shape without all the extra voids getting filled with resin. Not sure how Schionning takes this into consideration as each boat is going to be different. Keep up the good work and hope the rain stops!
This is hull #1, sort of. It uses the same hulls as the, 1490, so technically the canoes are hull #4, though this is the first 1520. They can't know the precise amount of epoxy, but it won't be far off. The hulls weigh 1,100 pounds each, typically, faired. The finished 1520 will weigh approximately 26,000 pounds and draft just 1' 9".
Hi. I’m no expert but I watched Ran sailing building their boat. They beveled the form edges, either front or back, to make fitting the strips easier. This might help reduce the gap size between strips and thus require less filling and sanding. Don’t know if this applies in your case. Regards
You're working fast, I might need to lower my time to finish... but then there are always uncontrollable setbacks like that rain and adjusting the strongback where things always take longer than you expect. Will be interesting to see how much weight of thickened epoxy and fairing you need to fill the gaps.
What city are you in, using the distance from the hills it looks like lUpland, Ontario or Montclair. It looks like south of the 10fwy and west of mountain ave.
@@SailingSVLynx I am getting ready to start construction on a 62' high performance aluminum catamaran at my shop in the high desert and the one thing I haven't researched is transportation of something that size. I wasn't going to think about it or worry about it until the time came. I have seen far bigger objects being transported by truck, the oversized permits and escorts are the biggest issues.
@@ChrisHarding-lk3jj Yes, you will need to get special permission from Cal Trans, and pay for a Highway patrol escort as well as a wide load escort company.
For all you 20 sumpthings out there buying new cars on 6 or 7 year loans Watch this….. If you want to Sail the 7 Seas? You can when your in your 60,s. After you retire. You can work harder than you did at your computer job. There are many reasons to build a sail cat and they are all good ones.
@@SailingSVLynx I wish you good luck. My own mistake was to build a flimsy tent so next storm destroyed the cover and wet entire project. Another problem I could name is the mist. Every sunset and sunrise water condensate everywhere not covered. Moisture is definitely the worst enemy of the boat builder. It blocks resin or polyurethane to set properly. Makes difficult the core contact with enforcements will cause future delaminations, blisters and so on.
@@DanielMashonkin yes, we do have concerns, but not so much about rain as wind. We will have to deal with that as it comes, hopefully taking down the tarps ahead of big winds. As for condensation, it can happen here, though we live in a very dry desert area. We will watch out for that and not apply epoxy if any surface isn't dry.
The guy doesn't sound like he knows precisely what it is that he's doing. I'm betting the other (bald) dude knows exactly what's going on, but doesn't want to contradict or embarrass the chief admiral and general know it all.
I certainly don't 'know it all', I am learning as we go, though I have spent years studying. But studying and doing are not the same thing. As for Brian, you can ask him if he thinks he knows better. I will let him reply. The fact is, Brian and I have worked together, on and off, for more than 30 years in various industries and been friends all that time. He's a great help in any job or project.
Dear friend, if the thickness of the strips is 2cm,you need a gap between the strip 3mm,if not they will be a lot of air between the strips ,so start again or you risk the whole project,you can make an experiment,before the start of the big gluing,this could make the cat a bit heavier,the better way is to glue the strips first for second, second for third….till the end,on my project i always first fix without gluing then i glue…. And i see you work in the open ,if starts to rain, you will lose the mdf, i think that you have no chance to finish this project in at least 7 years in this conditions
Fortunately the MDF doesn't have to last very long and we are headed into months where it doesn't rain in Southern California. The hulls will be done well before rain. The other MDF structures will also be completed by then, forebeam and cabin top. Nothing else uses MDF.
Its always so fun watching the start of a huge project that will take years. Energetic not tired of it at all. Remember this day to look back on.
I've never run out of steam on any project in my life, no matter how large.
@@SailingSVLynx I didn't say run out of steam. I was saying its a long long project. I know you will finish. If I were in your area I would help in winter since its way to hot for me in summer.
I appreciate that, DC. Sorry for misreading your comment! We'll see how energetic and tired I look after a year or so :)
What's great about these early stages is you can really see your progress and it's exciting. Later on, when you are fairing a section for weeks, it gets hard to visualize your progress.
Good week progress. Welcome to the B1G!
Yep, it was a good week. Thanks!
Great episode.
She's coming along
Yep, now just two more years to go, minus one week, we hope. :)
Congratulations on you guys inspire me and on top of that a wife that loves football, wow.
I'm blessed, I know.
I really like the way you calmly deal with manufacturing issues like poor labelling or MDF grooves given this is the pilot build of a new design. Your calmness and problem-solving will both stand you in great stead for the whole build, and is great for DIY'ers like me watching on to learn whilst dreaming about following in your footsteps :)
Thanks! We know there will be hurdles along the way (many) so it doesn't do us any good to have a conniption fit, it's best just to solve them and move on to the next. :)
So enjoyed your first week. Keep up keeping on guys.👍✌️
Thanks Ken. We plan to!
Looks like a lot of fun😊 looking forward to see it finished n sailing ⛵
It is fun... but the sailing will be more fun.
Very very cool guys keep up the good work!! Finally the dream coming into shape.
Yep, it's starting to look like a boat, at least the hull of a boat.
This is getting real! Cut to brass tacks and get busy! Nice!
Full steam ahead and damn the torpedoes!
If in doubt give it a clout. The bigger the doubt the bigger the clout. It always worked for me also. looking forward to the build.
lol
Looking good. Congrats on your rapid progress. 👍
Thanks! Hopefully, we keep up the pace.
Its a great start!
Thanks! Yes, we're off to the races (though I think we're more like the turtle than the hare.)
great progress!
Regarding alignment of the temporary hull forms, it seems to me that it would have been easy for the designer to add alignment holes through which a laser could be used to double and triple check everything. The system of slots to hold and align it all is good, but as you've found, it's not perfect.
I agree completely.
hilarious comments by the automatic subtitles got me smiling - pork side planking, decking the hall... very interesting build
That's funny, I'll have to turn that on and watch.
Thanks, enjoyed the journey with you.
You're welcome, it's just the beginning of a very long voyage!
Lookin forward to watching this build!
Me too, well, maybe more to finishing. :)
I'm looking forward to seeing the whole build on this. We're going to start on our 38 ft trimaran in the near future.
Great, I hope your build goes well!
I love watching builds like this come together, and I love your approach at making it all work out. Cool guys building a boat, very large boat!! Keep up the great work, I am your newest subscriber. Jay from Pa.
Thanks for watching and the sub!
Great job as always. keep at it.
Thanks!
Good work. I’m subscribing from this vid.
We are glad to have you as a viewer.
For the cuts when cutting on form can you only cut the outside laminate and foam leaving back laminate intact, lower laminate should be able to bend at that point.
Possibly, yes. I'll give it a try.
After some experimenting, we get a better twist (in areas that need it) by cutting all the way through. However, there are other sections of the hull where we will use kerfing.
Although I prefer monohull wooden sailboats
but your sailboat is really beautiful
I look forward to the smooth completion of everything and the early start of the global voyage.
Me too!
I'm sorry, but you have introduced a huge weak spot into your hull at 24:53 by creating a massive stress concentration point. The offset you spread the cuts out is not nearly enough to eliminate the issue, taking into account the overall length of the hull. Plus you will grind those protruding edges down hence removing even more of upper fiberglass reinforcement. Your boat probably will not fold in two pieces, but that's the future cracking place and a water entrance point.
Obviously you won't remove the planks already, so you will have to lay additional layers of fiberglass with a big overlap from the inside and from the outside. The weight of fiberglass should be higher than the original fiberglassing.
I recommend a book called "Structures: Or Why Things Don't Fall Down" by J. E. Gordon. It's a good and helpful read in general.
The biscuit joint is part of the plans from a company that has made cats this way for 35 years, without a single failure. As for the protruding edges, we did notice that and fixed that issue after the dry fitting before epoxying the strips permanently. There are three layers still to be laminated over the top of the hulls before they are done. The original plans only called for fiberglass, which would have still be overengineered with hulls designed to be strong enough to be beached, but we increased the strength and impact resistance by changing to basalt fiber laminated layers.
You should also note that we didn't engineer or design the hulls of this boat, that was done by the engineers at Schionning.
Really interesting project (binge watched to this point) and since I’ve been following “Life on the Hulls” and “MJ Sailing” it will be good to throw this different version of building a cat into the mix . Having spent 43 years in civil engineering I really think you could well do with some diagonal bracing (just wires you can tension) between your first and last shade roof support beam and maybe some anchors onto that 40’ container as well as some extra weight or earth anchors on the other, don’t under estimate the lifting power of a good gust of wind 😀 or the damage that thing could do to your build. Cheers from NZ
I think that plastic provided shade will just tear / shred with any decent wind gusts, but it would be bad if that structure damaged the boat. Those commercial tent / arc things designed to span 2 x shipping containers - what wind strength are they rated to? I'm daydreaming about my own build . . .
There are already anchors attached to the two containers from the corners of the structure, plus additional ones on the other side, both not shown in the video. They were added a day later. Finally, two lines on one end of each tarp are set to 'break away' in a large gust of wind rather then lift the structure.
@@SailingSVLynx Excellent 😀
damn thats a massive project
I always shoot for the moon.
You add yourself extra work ,it will be fine go with strips from deck up tp keel as is done on strip canoes , further else you might use their trick for routing edges to lock it selves and not mentioned lot of extra structural strength ..... hull must be level with filler anyway and lot of sanding prior fiber glassing. oh well
We followed the manufacturer's recommendation on how to build their hulls, so we're confidant they will be fine. Schionning has been selling kits for 35 years and are known for their strong boats. But thanks for the suggestion.
It seems like very fast to build with strips like that - compared to wooden strips as RAN-sailing do- but I think there will be a lot sanding and fairing to get a good finish. . But one think as a kit - why dont they have forms for those essential parts and save a lot work. This will be much more work than MJ-sailings cat.
It will take a lot of fairing, no doubt. I wish they had cut the strips for us, but it only added a couple of days per hull, so not that big a deal. We would have loved to go with a Max Cruise 44, but it was just too small for our size crew and goals. I contacted Max Cruise, and though they sell a larger cat, they don't sell it in a kit and it was north of $800,000. But there is a silver lining, though more work, I got to design a lot of the details about the Solitaire 1520, so I get very close to my dream boat.
Hello, I do not speak very well English, so l speak French.
So, très très gros projet et futur travail difficile en terme de tenue des formes avec ces petites lattes de PVC qui seront difficile a poncer ! En France, il y a quelques années nous avons construit un voilier en Polyester de 11m mais avec des panneaux de mousse PVC striées ( DAMICELL) de grandes dimensions et plus rapides à poser . Des lattes de bois auraient été plus simples et plus faciles à poncer pour le contrôle des formes avant pose des tissus de verre . Vous vous êtes lancés dans un projet titanesque...et avec un tel budget il était peut-être plus facile de trouver un catamaran d'occasion et à modifier ! alors bon courage à venir .
Nous avons cherché un bateau d'occasion à réparer, mais ils étaient trop chers. C'était beaucoup moins cher et nous obtenons un nouveau bateau. Si vous regardez la vidéo de la semaine dernière, nous en parlons. Merci d'avoir commenté !
viva france
I prefer French sailing ships. But I prefer the French boats and cars from the last century. Has modern France lost its former romance? Ha ha
Although Nelson won the naval battle, I still prefer the French fast warships of the Napoleonic era.
I personally guess that he used this method to make templates and consider the possibility of mass production in the future. There is a limit to the number of repetitions of the plank template.
At what point do you glue the strips together? I've done a boat with duracore strips and glued the edge with thickened epoxy on the table. Then lifted it into place and screwed into the temp frames (bulkheads). My strips had only 7/8" width so we used round toothpicks between temp frames (if needed) to peg the strips to the next one. This took out some of the variations from strip to strip and helped reduce fairing.
I'd love to see your project - I'm in Orange County.
The strips are glued on right after dry fitting, just watch the latest videos, we show the process, though we chose to go in reverse order.
Great progress! Death by a thousand cuts maybe? 😅 always amazes how quickly you learn to be more efficient. Maybe invest in a track saw or these cuts don’t need to be that exact?
We looked into track saws before starting, but it added time (moving the track each 10' and lining it back up) and cost (to buy). It turns out that the sled and guide we use on the saw works perfectly and we can run straight down the entire cut without any issue.
SIR I REALLY LIKE YOUR PROJECT .. PLS SHARE NEXT STEP . I AM FROM INDIA
We will share our plans as we make them :)
Nice progress! Will this be hull#1 when completed? I forget if you've mentioned this before. Also, just curious how Schionning provided the estimate for the lightship displacement? Seeing the strip planking process it is different from how other performance cats are built, and all of those slits/grooves are going to be filled with epoxy, adding weight and impacting performance. Manufacturers building hulls off molds are able to use thermo-formed foam panels that contour to the shape without all the extra voids getting filled with resin. Not sure how Schionning takes this into consideration as each boat is going to be different.
Keep up the good work and hope the rain stops!
This is hull #1, sort of. It uses the same hulls as the, 1490, so technically the canoes are hull #4, though this is the first 1520. They can't know the precise amount of epoxy, but it won't be far off. The hulls weigh 1,100 pounds each, typically, faired. The finished 1520 will weigh approximately 26,000 pounds and draft just 1' 9".
@@SailingSVLynx Very cool! Now it's a race to be the first 1520 in the water, do you know if any others are currently in the build phase?
There are not, but I am consulting with several people who want to build a Solitaire. Some of them plan to have them built by a yard.
Hi. I’m no expert but I watched Ran sailing building their boat. They beveled the form edges, either front or back, to make fitting the strips easier. This might help reduce the gap size between strips and thus require less filling and sanding. Don’t know if this applies in your case. Regards
I asked Schionning about that ahead of time and they said cut them straight, so we did.
You're working fast, I might need to lower my time to finish... but then there are always uncontrollable setbacks like that rain and adjusting the strongback where things always take longer than you expect.
Will be interesting to see how much weight of thickened epoxy and fairing you need to fill the gaps.
I'm curious about that a well.
What's the thickness of the strip points if you don't mind me asking thank you?
Sorry, I haven't measured them exactly. Around 1 inch, but I'll check when I am at the build site.
Don’t forget, we want to hear about your wine cave too.
I don't have a wine cave, but I cave in and whine now and then.
What city are you in, using the distance from the hills it looks like lUpland, Ontario or Montclair. It looks like south of the 10fwy and west of mountain ave.
In that area, yes.
@@SailingSVLynx How are you going to transport it to the water for launching.
@@ChrisHarding-lk3jj Crane loads it on a flatbed truck, another crane drops it in the water off Balboa Island, in Newport Beach.
@@SailingSVLynx I am getting ready to start construction on a 62' high performance aluminum catamaran at my shop in the high desert and the one thing I haven't researched is transportation of something that size. I wasn't going to think about it or worry about it until the time came. I have seen far bigger objects being transported by truck, the oversized permits and escorts are the biggest issues.
@@ChrisHarding-lk3jj Yes, you will need to get special permission from Cal Trans, and pay for a Highway patrol escort as well as a wide load escort company.
Do all the screws come out before the fiber glassing, or do the stay in?
They all come out before we laminate the basalt cloth over the hulls.
Nice hat. Where did you find it?
It's an Australian product. I'll try to get the company name for you.
It's called the "Sundaise Desert Legionnaires Hat"
www.opentip.com/Adams-XCM101-Extreme-Condition-Hat-p-13951760_WPW-ACXCM10KHBK001.html?ats=gs&gclid=CjwKCAjwrpOiBhBVEiwA_473dP-ErHxO6sK0XSwcMD_-gPtVFnR3QAML0Tn56dyMxyPXHoe1gPv0qBoCUMoQAvD_BwE
that was... fast!
We are determined to stay on schedule.
Do you have to glue each plank
Yes, you will see that in one of the next two videos.
💥💥
🤟
You are off to a flying start.👍
It won't all be smooth sailing... but it never is. :)
For all you 20 sumpthings out there buying new cars on 6 or 7 year loans Watch this….. If you want to Sail the 7 Seas? You can when your in your 60,s. After you retire. You can work harder than you did at your computer job. There are many reasons to build a sail cat and they are all good ones.
All true. :)
Assemble MDF frame when cover not finished? Too ambitious ignoring weather conditions. Rain and heat would corrupt shapes fold and bend MDF quickly.
We are in Southern California, its unlikely to rain for the next five months. Worse case scenario, we have plastic sheeting to cover the entire canoe.
@@SailingSVLynx I wish you good luck. My own mistake was to build a flimsy tent so next storm destroyed the cover and wet entire project. Another problem I could name is the mist. Every sunset and sunrise water condensate everywhere not covered. Moisture is definitely the worst enemy of the boat builder. It blocks resin or polyurethane to set properly. Makes difficult the core contact with enforcements will cause future delaminations, blisters and so on.
@@SailingSVLynx I cover hulls for the night every time th-cam.com/video/cAw6y5yNpWE/w-d-xo.html
@@DanielMashonkin yes, we do have concerns, but not so much about rain as wind. We will have to deal with that as it comes, hopefully taking down the tarps ahead of big winds. As for condensation, it can happen here, though we live in a very dry desert area. We will watch out for that and not apply epoxy if any surface isn't dry.
The guy doesn't sound like he knows precisely what it is that he's doing. I'm betting the other (bald) dude knows exactly what's going on, but doesn't want to contradict or embarrass the chief admiral and general know it all.
I certainly don't 'know it all', I am learning as we go, though I have spent years studying. But studying and doing are not the same thing. As for Brian, you can ask him if he thinks he knows better. I will let him reply. The fact is, Brian and I have worked together, on and off, for more than 30 years in various industries and been friends all that time. He's a great help in any job or project.
We offer pp honeycomb composites which is being used by some catamaran manufactures, let me know if you are interested.
We already purchased the kit for the entire boat.
are these kits?
Yes, if you are asking about the entire boat.
I am surprised that no glue is used on any joints.
This was the dry fitting, epoxy between strips starts next.
Dear friend, if the thickness of the strips is 2cm,you need a gap between the strip 3mm,if not they will be a lot of air between the strips ,so start again or you risk the whole project,you can make an experiment,before the start of the big gluing,this could make the cat a bit heavier,the better way is to glue the strips first for second, second for third….till the end,on my project i always first fix without gluing then i glue…. And i see you work in the open ,if starts to rain, you will lose the mdf, i think that you have no chance to finish this project in at least 7 years in this conditions
The gap is already correct for these strips as per the kit designers specifications.
@@SailingSVLynx well good luck
Fortunately the MDF doesn't have to last very long and we are headed into months where it doesn't rain in Southern California. The hulls will be done well before rain. The other MDF structures will also be completed by then, forebeam and cabin top. Nothing else uses MDF.
@@dalgamor i have very good idea about your project,i am building Schionning Arrow 1500 at the moment
@@valkedinak7130 Excellent. Are you building in laminated foam panels or balsa?
Tell the old bald guy not to talk so much. 😄
That guy? He is always working so hard he has no time to talk.
When you try to hard.....
It's all wood, epoxy, and foam. I can fix anything that needs fixing.
I don't like the way of building, not convinced
What part don't you like?