I've been watching many similar DIY setups and have binge watched all 170 video's from @HBpowerwall that all have learned me a lot, but this bus bar approach is by far the easiest, cheapest and neatest I've seen! Great job Rudi!
lol i been binge watching too, twisted wire looks the way to go. they both use 6mm wire multi strand which is better for amps hence why they use multi strand for jumper cables and welders
Thank you so much for not adding music to your videos. Your videos are very detailed and informative. I want to make 1kw 48v packs that i can increase as i go along.
Finally a good video from start to finish of the bus bar, very clear, very informative - helped me out a lot! Love the idea of the jigs and the methods to keep you sane! Steve
I like your wooden jig for making the bus bars. A suggestion on the fused side, after the fuse wire is cut, and while the bus is still in the jig place a wooden dowel rod next to bus and curl the fuse wire all at once.
Getting ready to build some of these packs. I am in the US and don't have access to multi-strand house wire. I am trying to convert 6mm to gauge here in the US. 6mm converts to 2 gauge solid core. That stuff is really hard to work with because it is so stiff. I would like to take something like 12 or 14 gauge and double it, then spin it up with a drill. Any idea how thick the final wire you have after you have spun it up?
Brilliant idea on using the drill to strand the wires together. Doing the same thing for my bus bars, now that I've seen this. Seems to work well with 3x12 AWG solid wire or 4x14 AWG wire.
What I find works very well is to use tinned braided copper grounding strap material. It's flexible, capable of handling high current, and solders very easily. Just use the appropriate size for your maximum current draw - and, there are charts for that.
I have trouble getting solder to stick to the cells, unless I sand or scrape them first. How do you get the solder to stick so easy? Also, what exact solder do you use? That is really nice work.
twisted cable is much easier for soldering and also can transfer more energy, since electrons move on the surface of the material, not inside :) and also twisted cable is much more flexible and won't break up after several bending
Hi FlyJabiru - lovely demo of the build - very neat and achievable in any workshop. Just one question on the fuse wire. Were you able to test at what amperage the fuse wire 'popped' in this configuration? The issue I'm thinking is that with the cell and the bus bar there may be too much heat sink for the length of the fuse (possibly a bit short). What do you think?
Great Video!! and a great way of making the bus bars! How much does the copper contract when you twist it? So how much do you need when its singly stranded to get you x length when twisted?
Very well explained videos! Really makes me wanna start doing something like this. More to learn first, so here's the noob question: why is the postive side wire you're using different from the negative side? Thanks!
The positive side of the batteries are fused with fuse wire in case an individual battery cell fails. It's the same thing Telsa does on there battery packs
Hi all! Can anyone help me with a link to ebay for the 6A fuse wire? Or please specify the AWG or MM. I've been searching like crazy... Or some similar product, IG these pico fuses? How thik is the Negative wire(s) Thanks & nice infovidios!
I wonder if leaving the spot welded nickel tabs on the end of the cell helps at all with either the soldering of the wires to each cell and/or protecting the cell from the heat of the iron. I always have to tear mine off regardless for some reason. Real waste of time I think.
The key to properly soldering lithium batteries is to use a soldering iron at a high temperature and a high wattage so as to minimize the amount of time you're heating the connection. I know that sounds counter intuitive, but the goal is to minimize the total amount of heat transferred to the battery and using a high powered soldering iron for a few seconds is better than having to leave a low power iron sitting on the joint for 30 seconds to a minute to get enough heat to melt the solder.
End cooling buss Idea for 18650 powerwall using 1/4 copper pipe over formed and soldered to your positive buss running non conductive mineral oil in the system separated from each string with clear polyethylene connecting multiple strings and finally to a reused CPU cooling radiator and fan .
Sir, that is the most intelligent, yet the most straight forward way of building a battery pack. I,m in the uk and want to put solar on my home, then hookup a powerwall, many thanks and i,ll look to see how batteries are used and tested to build the powerwall thanks again.
Really like the easy your bus bars go on. Great idea - I think this will be the standard going forward. Fast, easy & cheap - love it.
Thanks mate, that means a lot coming from the guru :-)
@@flyjabiru11 Turns out I called this one :)
I've been watching many similar DIY setups and have binge watched all 170 video's from @HBpowerwall that all have learned me a lot, but this bus bar approach is by far the easiest, cheapest and neatest I've seen! Great job Rudi!
HBpowerwall is where I got started from too
lol i been binge watching too, twisted wire looks the way to go. they both use 6mm wire multi strand which is better for amps hence why they use multi strand for jumper cables and welders
Thank you so much for not adding music to your videos.
Your videos are very detailed and informative. I want to make 1kw 48v packs that i can increase as i go along.
Finally a good video from start to finish of the bus bar, very clear, very informative - helped me out a lot! Love the idea of the jigs and the methods to keep you sane!
Steve
So were these all connected in parallel? What's your voltage? How would you wire them in series and parallel?
Great idea the twisted electrical wire. looks like you have got it down to a T, and you make it look so easy. Good work.
Good morning
why not use nickel strips per point and put a bms? That would be easier, right?
THANKS
Great video. What happens when one of the batteries fails or dies? You will have to start it again.
lithium batteries just loose capacity, they dont short. he will just loose 0.5% of capacity of assembled cell
I like your wooden jig for making the bus bars. A suggestion on the fused side, after the fuse wire is cut, and while the bus is still in the jig place a wooden dowel rod next to bus and curl the fuse wire all at once.
Is a combination of series and parallel connections possible with this bus bar design?
Seems its difficult to find that copper tinned wired here in my country...did i can use another similar product?
What rating Anderson connecters are they. I am looking at using Anderson Power Pole 180 x 2 to give 360A
What circuit do you use to charge the battery packs once they are finished?
Thank you for sharing your experience and professionalism.
After making these blocks how to balance them and connect them to solar regulator and inverter.
Getting ready to build some of these packs. I am in the US and don't have access to multi-strand house wire. I am trying to convert 6mm to gauge here in the US. 6mm converts to 2 gauge solid core. That stuff is really hard to work with because it is so stiff. I would like to take something like 12 or 14 gauge and double it, then spin it up with a drill. Any idea how thick the final wire you have after you have spun it up?
Have you tested the current and time of that current that makes the fuses blow?
Brilliant idea on using the drill to strand the wires together. Doing the same thing for my bus bars, now that I've seen this. Seems to work well with 3x12 AWG solid wire or 4x14 AWG wire.
What I find works very well is to use tinned braided copper grounding strap material. It's flexible, capable of handling high current, and solders very easily. Just use the appropriate size for your maximum current draw - and, there are charts for that.
On the Avasva you can count on professional help with problems and technical support.
So u would need another bar on other side for positive or negative for ebike or not?
what should be the maximum difference between capacities for cells to connect in parallel in a pack(2900 with 1700 should be ok)
I have trouble getting solder to stick to the cells, unless I sand or scrape them first. How do you get the solder to stick so easy? Also, what exact solder do you use? That is really nice work.
Thanks. I use a 80 watt lead light soldering iron.
I don't think ist the type of soilder I use, but I think It will sticks if it gets hot enough
On used cells I first use a Dremel to remove any excess tab material then us a flux pen ..getting enough heat is really important.
What kind of wire do you use that connects cell to bus-bar, I suppose that is intended as fuse.
Thanks
How many strands are in those bus bar cables? Cheers!
Why u ned to twisted bus bar caable ? id u use single 5 0r 6 mm copper cable is not good ?
twisted cable is much easier for soldering and also can transfer more energy, since electrons move on the surface of the material, not inside :) and also twisted cable is much more flexible and won't break up after several bending
@@alexsiniov WRONG! DC current flows through the entire cross-section of the copper wire on planet Earth. I am not sure what planet you are from ...
Great to see real Aussie ingenuity many will follow.
Are you refering to the bus bar junction with solder?
Or the lack of fuses on each cell?
Hi FlyJabiru - lovely demo of the build - very neat and achievable in any workshop. Just one question on the fuse wire. Were you able to test at what amperage the fuse wire 'popped' in this configuration? The issue I'm thinking is that with the cell and the bus bar there may be too much heat sink for the length of the fuse (possibly a bit short). What do you think?
Great ideas here. How did your "power wall" turn out? Is it still a work in progress?
Hello! I want to build a batterypack. Is it not dangerous to solder directly on the cell?
No, Its fine. Others have done tests; A small amount of heat doesn't seem to affect the batteries at all.
Great Video!! and a great way of making the bus bars!
How much does the copper contract when you twist it? So how much do you need when its singly stranded to get you x length when twisted?
Very well explained videos! Really makes me wanna start doing something like this. More to learn first, so here's the noob question: why is the postive side wire you're using different from the negative side? Thanks!
The positive side of the batteries are fused with fuse wire in case an individual battery cell fails. It's the same thing Telsa does on there battery packs
Ah! Got it. Thanks!
flyjabiru11 what wire are you using on the other side? Can you link guage and type? Thanks.
so, if you do it like this, you don't need nickel strips?
You have made my builds easy. excellent video.
Hey Flyjabiru, how many strands the 6mm2 cable has? it looks to me like 5-6 strands.
that turned out so nice. busbars, kinda looks like my cap tab welder.
Hi all!
Can anyone help me with a link to ebay for the 6A fuse wire? Or please specify the AWG or MM. I've been searching like crazy...
Or some similar product, IG these pico fuses?
How thik is the Negative wire(s)
Thanks & nice infovidios!
Bloody awesome. Thank you so much for sharing this...so many nuggets of gold here!
Does anyone know what Gauge that wire is, Im assuming its 6-4 AWG
I wonder if leaving the spot welded nickel tabs on the end of the cell helps at all with either the soldering of the wires to each cell and/or protecting the cell from the heat of the iron.
I always have to tear mine off regardless for some reason. Real waste of time I think.
how is the soldering iron not killing your batteries????
The key to properly soldering lithium batteries is to use a soldering iron at a high temperature and a high wattage so as to minimize the amount of time you're heating the connection. I know that sounds counter intuitive, but the goal is to minimize the total amount of heat transferred to the battery and using a high powered soldering iron for a few seconds is better than having to leave a low power iron sitting on the joint for 30 seconds to a minute to get enough heat to melt the solder.
Very tidy. Nice job.
Awesome, great idea with your bus bars.
End cooling buss Idea for 18650 powerwall using 1/4 copper pipe over formed and soldered to your positive buss running non conductive mineral oil in the system separated from each string with clear polyethylene connecting multiple strings and finally to a reused CPU cooling radiator and fan .
amazing how much this video influenced so many of us !! Thanks a lot !
Nice work m8!
Soldering of Li-Ion batteries is not commonly used. How do you think, why?
Nice work 👍
Sir, that is the most intelligent, yet the most straight forward way of building a battery pack. I,m in the uk and want to put solar on my home, then hookup a powerwall, many thanks and i,ll look to see how batteries are used and tested to build the powerwall thanks again.
Awesome, thank you.
Great work. BUT secure the busbar too.....
Best approach I've seen to this mate. thanks for sharing.... Sub
Very cool method.
Good work mate, subbed.
i realize I'm kinda off topic but does anybody know of a good place to stream newly released tv shows online?
@Kyler Nolan I use flixzone. You can find it on google =)
Great video, thanks!
Brilliant!
SUPER 👍👍👍
think of power like water it always takes the shortest path. just a thought
Electricity takes *ALL* paths, not just the shortest ...
power dc