I hope you guys enjoyed my How to Build a Lithium Battery tutorial series. If you want to learn even more, I hope you'll consider checking out my Amazon #1 Bestselling book, DIY Lithium Batteries, available in paperback and ebook formats. a.co/iDtWdPX
Yeah, it's great. Question: since you wire 3 batteries in parallel, do you have anything that monitors that particular "cell" and tell you that it went bad ? I am thinking on the bad case that one or more individual cells is going down and the indicator would tell you which so you wouldn't have to disassemble the entire pack and test them all.
Hey EbikeSchool.com I am using 13cells in series and 18 such series connected in parallels so should I use only one 13s bms aur 18 13s bms in my battery pack?
Dude! I love you. Bought all your books, but actually seeing the mechanics behind the building is priceless. I’m a novice w/LI batteries, but after a year of reading, watching and buying a spot welder and 95% pure nickel roll, I’m gonna attempt to build a replacement 48v, 10.5 ah battery for my smallest (grocery-getter) e-scooter.
Thank you so much man. Now I can finally finish my build. I connected my b- directly to the controller and it didn’t work. Thanks to you I know now that the p- goes to the controller👍🏼
Bro, I've watched all of your videos for this. It's amazingly put together. I never understood the whole buckle strip placement, but now I do. One thing I'm getting my head around are the BMS wires , but I'm sure I'll get it after watching the same video a few times.
Connect the sense wires and the power wires BEFORE plugging in the sense cable to the BMS. The circuitry that the sense wires connect to contain MOSFETS which are static sensitive. It is also a good idea to use a static wrist strap when installing the BMS for the same reason.
FANTASTIC VIDEO mate!!! You're the number #1 ebike educating dude..... LOVE watching your videos, reading your educational articles, your educational battery build kits... man... you rock!! Well done.. great job as usual =]
enjoying your YT videos. I do recommend redoing your older YT videos with the music turned down. Or make one with music and one without music. or maybe I will just hit the cc button. thanks, Boss, keep up the outstanding work!
You are awesome! been searching videos trying to find a simple and straight to the point explanation, You nailed! Others should learn from you! Short and simple 🤘😃🤘 you just got a new subscriber.
So, Micah, I hope you've learned to use flux and a higher wattage, higher temperature soldering iron since this video. It's a great video other than the fact that all your connections are "cold." A hotter iron will heat the working area to the proper melting temp of the solder before that heat has a chance to migrate away to the batteries.
For those who wonder which connectors to use. After trying different type of connectors, I recommend XT60 or XT90. XT90-S is good for powerful batteries.
awesome guids, the ratings speak for themselves. I didn't see if you cover the heatsink of the BMS, and sometimes for higher power BMS the heatsink would melt the glue... all FETs and heatsinks benefit from capton/clearence/fets can melt nearby plastics/heatsink can be hot.
Thank you very much, was stuck for months with this. My inverter charge and discharge on the same positive and negative, thus -p and -c will use my inverters negative split into two to solder them into the bms. Thanks. GOD bless.
Super valuable video. You are great at teaching things. Calm, professional and telling all the details like nickel thickness for certain amps. Highly appreciated video series. Maybe you could record something newer for the knowledge and experience you have in 2021? :)
There seems to be a lot of comments from people connecting the wires on a bms in the wrong order and blowing them up. Is there a specific order that they should be connected and disconnected when removing a BMS?
Dont like having the bms on the pack, after a bms failed on me i have it connected to the charger now instead and just plug the balance lead from the pack in to the bms, and the xt 60 from the pack in to the bms xt60 + and -. This way if the bms fails it does not kill the pack (has happened to me and discharged a parallel section of batteries to 0v, killing the cells). Use an in line 40a fuse to the speed controller as your protection.
Wondering if you are able to essentially put this pack in series with other packs with each of their own bms all connected to a charger via their respective leads?
On this BMS, the sense wires are to be fixed to each cell + , but you solder them between the + and -- . If the BMS required that they were to be soldered on the -- end , where would they go ? In the same place ? As you fixed them in between the + and -- of the cells, what determined that they were fixed to the + ? Is it the direction of flow ?
May I know what is the real difference between a BMS with negative charge connected to C- and one BMS without the C-? Is either one better than the other or what is the real advantage?
Basically we do not have different charging port and discharging port. We have charging and discharging from same port. I understood cell connection diagram.
for high current battery packs the type of connectors is important, as well as their environment, if your powerpole are gonna be in a close non ventilated area, then the heat may warp the plastic. also about high current, there's not only xt-90 , but also xt-90s hobbyking.com/en_us/xt90-s-anti-spark-connector-2pairs-bag.html which contain a pre-charge component, to hold off the sudden burst of current that could potentially damage the controller. (if you don't have an on/off switch) .
Hello and regards from Spain! I have a question regarding the connections for the BMS. I made 3 lines of ten batteries in series (36V) and then connected them in parallel (~10Amp) . Shall I just connect the wires of my BMS to the positive terminals of just one line of batteries? Or shall I make a kind of bridge connection between each individual BMS wire and its corresponding three-cells set? Thank you very much for your effort and instructive videos. You really motivated me to start up my personal projects!
Why you solder main positive and negative all along the four cells. Wouldn’t it work just soldering those wires to any spot in thar nickel since they are already connected ?
What would have floated my boat would have been a demonstration of the balance wiring placement sequence when you have 1 extra wire than the cells. Your book didn't make this clear enough either.
If the battery cells don't have 60A nor have the ability to deliver the true 60A but can deliver less than 50A then the BMS will not be triggered to shut the battery off..
Seems to be a gr8 video but all additional terminals or wires don't really make sense until explained in detail. Example is there an overload protect included and how does it work? Why more then 1 wire from the bms to the same terminal??
I have a 36V 11Ah Lithium bike battery and I accidentally shorted it. None of the cells are damaged but it seems the BMS 10s is. It does have a temperature sensor (twin black wire joined at the end in a resin cover). I wonder if there could have a fuse in the BMS and how to find it... Also, compared to the components shown in your video there are two more wires connecting the on/off button of the battery. Are they special or all BMS have them? Finally, since you said that I need to know the amperage to know what BMS I need, my 5x10 cells are 2200mA and 37V and my bike engine is 500w. Is that enough to calculate the needed BMS amperage?
Thank you for sharing, it's a very cool and instructive series of videos. I'd like to know what is the best way to make a 20s24p battery pack for a e-moto I'm building. I know I need look for a 20s BMS, but should I weld the 24 batteries in parallel? Or would it be better to make 20s battery packs with, let's say 12 parallel cells, each one with a BMS, and then connect the battery packs into a larger battery pack. Thank you
Hi! I have bought a bms and it doesn't have a C- wire. In stead, there are 2 P- wires and the manual says that I should connect the P- wires to the charger and the controller. Pls help.
I see a lot of people using hot melt glue directly on the pcb.... I was wondering if the glue became conductive over time? I have read on some forums about the same question and all I could find is people who are saying that they have done it forever and never had a problem with it.... VDO, a company that you might have heard of... makes instrument clusters for car's used to use super glue until year's later... the clusters were failing due to super glue becoming conductive and therefore creating a short circuit... it's just a thought but it just might be relevant...
Wow! Thanks for the excellent series and your easy going, very informative way of presenting the information. It is just what I needed to crest the learning curve! Questions: Do you believe these packs can be built without a traditional BMS? Also, who did the backround music in your "episode two"? Thanks, keep up the great work!
I gather that solder heat will damage the batteries, so I am wondering why it is OK to use the high temperature glue. From Amazon it would be about 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Can you comment on weather LFP batteries are more or less sensitive to temperature. Thank you for the great videos.
What if your bms on your battery has a on off switch an the one your replacing it with doesn't? Does this matter is there a way to wire ot in ? Pls help
I'm trying to replace Littolala 50a BMS and it says wire neg from charge connector to B- and the LOAD NEG to B- also. What is the load negative wire????
Hallo Herr Mike i have problem with my E Scooter it is work just for 30 second than turn it off , after 40 second turn it on again . it stays like this all the time.... i do not know what the problem exactly . please your Answer
nice videos.i was hoping i could salvage 2, 48v 6ah bottle style batteries.i dont see any videos with them opened up.i used the throttle to much when i first installed 1000w the front wheel kit.i use a 12ah bat.now and have a 6ah for backup.after i ruined the 2 batteries i mostly use pedal assist so to manage and save my batteries.
Hello.... Can i use a 14 gauge copper wire instead of 14 gauge silicone wire for the positive and negative terminal of the battery pack ? thank you for your videos ❤️♥️♥️
Hello ! I have a Samsung SDI battery (36.3v 10.0Ah 363.0Wh)... I'm looking for a BMS board to replace it, but I can not find the same one. Can I use any kind of BMS ? Thanks in advance.
My scooter build requires me to use 4 battery packs. Each pack is 12s1p, which are then all wired in parallel to make 12s4p. Is it possible to wire a bms to this frankenstien battery? Obviously if they were all in a single simple cube shape, like a normal 12s4p battery it would be possible, but I have no idea how I'd go about wiring the balance wires to my 4x48v battery packs...
Thanks one more. You even show us how to solder nicely.. Is there any way we can check if the BMS has indeed a balancing function? And another question: Is it worth it to find BMSs with temperature sensor? Thanks.
PLease update the links as some of them are not working. I am fan and currently working on building battery pack of 50AH, 48v and of 10A. I loved the series as you have covered every aspects.
If using LiFePo4 cells on a car starter battery, where do have the BMS-charge /-discharge lines to be connected, because on a motorcar there are two connections only covering charging (from alternator) and discharging (to the starter motor) same time! 🤔
Excellent video's, thanks. I am replacing a BMS on my 36v bike battery pack and I have got the same BMS you show in the video. You don't mention wiring a switch. Are they the two connections on the left hand side of the 10 wire connector? If this is correct, shouldn't these connectors be bridged if no switch is used. The existing battery pack switch had small gauge wires to connectors on the BMS.
Can discharge port and charging port connect together? To make 1 port 2in1 discharge and charging. For this bms in your picture. Or is it i need to buy a bms board that only have 1 port?
Hi I have a massive issue I have 2 newish 60v 20ah 18650 battery pack can u just help me by looking to see if the rust / water damage is effecting the battery cells or it’s the bms Becuase I accidently plug the brake in the charge via controller
Useful hint: Some of the cheaper BMSs (like I can afford) are *rated* for 50A but need the channels reinforcing when you go above 20 (at least they were honest). A layer or two of pre-tinned solar cell ribbon along the power lines in the board will add the extra carrying capacity you need relatively easily and for cheap. It's also really easy to cut into the right shape and size. How much current goes through the sense wires? Those I have are good enough for signals but not for power so I need to know whether or not they need replacing. Any reason you're soldering the negative wires all the way along an already conductive nickel strip?
If you got a BMS with no B+, you first solder the B- to the battery and then solder the small wires as you like, in series or not, as in your video. What if you have a BMS with B- AND B+? I've read that there's only one proper way to wire such BMS, else you could pop a few MOSFETs while attaching the cables.
Excellent video, answers a lot of questions I have had. I'm brand spankin new to this scene and love your videos!! I do have a question regarding the BMS. You mentioned to use a BMS with a little more amp capacity in order for safety. Would there a be a problem if the amp capacity is far greater than the amp capacity of my battery bank? For example, my battery bank would be approximately 54 amps. Would it be a problem if I were to use a 100 amp BMS (assumming it meets the number of cells of course). Please keep up the videos, they truly are amazing!!
I hate it when channels that beg for your subscription don't even take the time to answer questions. True mark of a douche worth using adblock for.Over rating your current on a BMS is no issue, higher you go, cooler it will run and safer it will be. Using same current as your controller max for BMS max like he did here is not smart.
slinkytreekreeper it's not his job to answer every question. People are lucky that have a very well edited video with a lot of good information. He's not even that big relatively speaking. Give him a break
are bms supposed get hot??mine gets real hot i am afraid to leave it plugged in??as it melts the hot glue??polarity is good seams to not work ass its drains the battery from 16.8volt to 13.5 volt thanks for your videos
Hi Ebikeschool I want to ask if I need to connect the holes in B- and C- ? I wonder i have a type of BMS there are two holes each connection B- and C-. If i will connect 1 wire in 1 hole is it okay??or I need to connect both two holes? The B- can connect in last negative which is the last positive also?? Or two holes connection in 1 wire to 1st negative?
hi Micah, i really love watching you're videos, you explain everything so clearly. i just want to ask about choosing the right BMS for my battery pack. lets say if i'm going to build a 12v 14.4ah (panasonic tesla LDTSL 21700, 3.7 4800mah 10A max 35A) what would be the recommended BMS ampere for this build, will a 3S 25A do?... i'm also trying to find a video on your channel how to calculate the Amps when building a battery pack. because in my example,if i use the tesla battery with a rating of 10A each with a 3P connection would that total 30A and do i need a 30A BMS?
I'm a bit confused as to what does what. I understand that lithium batteries need constant current / constant voltage charging. When you use a BMS, do you also need a "lithium charger" to do that, or is that functionality contained in the BMS, so that a simple regulated power supply + BMS is sufficient?
Please help. Just completed my 14s4p battery pack my problem the BMS 14 lead wire harness is now too short to reach the cells monitoring voltage. Can you recommend the tools and parts purchase for building your own wire harness? Or better yet a 14 lead harness with leads at least 12 inches long.
Hello! please help me with a tip i need a bms but i don't know how many volts and how many amps it should have, for a li ion battery 14s 51.8v 40ah i have a brushless motor sss56104 790kv 6000w and a pro marine ESC 300A.Thank you
Hello, thanks for all your videos. I have a question why there are Lithium batteries with many exterior wires and other with only two. In my case I have a 6 batteries Lithium. With two thick wires ( black and red) and five small wires ( yellow, blue, red, black, white). What are the function of the 5 wires? Does those batteries has a BMS?
I hope you guys enjoyed my How to Build a Lithium Battery tutorial series. If you want to learn even more, I hope you'll consider checking out my Amazon #1 Bestselling book, DIY Lithium Batteries, available in paperback and ebook formats. a.co/iDtWdPX
Yeah, it's great. Question: since you wire 3 batteries in parallel, do you have anything that monitors that particular "cell" and tell you that it went bad ? I am thinking on the bad case that one or more individual cells is going down and the indicator would tell you which so you wouldn't have to disassemble the entire pack and test them all.
Why would one need a BMS?
Brother can we 16 s bms in 15 s cell battery
@@thekaiser4333 why wouldn't you use one?
Hey EbikeSchool.com I am using 13cells in series and 18 such series connected in parallels so should I use only one 13s bms aur 18 13s bms in my battery pack?
Dude! I love you. Bought all your books, but actually seeing the mechanics behind the building is priceless. I’m a novice w/LI batteries, but after a year of reading, watching and buying a spot welder and 95% pure nickel roll, I’m gonna attempt to build a replacement 48v, 10.5 ah battery for my smallest (grocery-getter) e-scooter.
Thank you so much man. Now I can finally finish my build. I connected my b- directly to the controller and it didn’t work. Thanks to you I know now that the p- goes to the controller👍🏼
Bro, I've watched all of your videos for this. It's amazingly put together.
I never understood the whole buckle strip placement, but now I do.
One thing I'm getting my head around are the BMS wires , but I'm sure I'll get it after watching the same video a few times.
Connect the sense wires and the power wires BEFORE plugging in the sense cable to the BMS. The circuitry that the sense wires connect to contain MOSFETS which are static sensitive. It is also a good idea to use a static wrist strap when installing the BMS for the same reason.
FANTASTIC VIDEO mate!!!
You're the number #1 ebike educating dude..... LOVE watching your videos, reading your educational articles, your educational battery build kits... man... you rock!! Well done.. great job as usual =]
I'm an American modding an e-moto in China for fun and this is saving my life.
enjoying your YT videos. I do recommend redoing your older YT videos with the music turned down. Or make one with music and one without music. or maybe I will just hit the cc button. thanks, Boss, keep up the outstanding work!
You are awesome! been searching videos trying to find a simple and straight to the point explanation, You nailed! Others should learn from you! Short and simple 🤘😃🤘 you just got a new subscriber.
So, Micah, I hope you've learned to use flux and a higher wattage, higher temperature soldering iron since this video. It's a great video other than the fact that all your connections are "cold." A hotter iron will heat the working area to the proper melting temp of the solder before that heat has a chance to migrate away to the batteries.
For those who wonder which connectors to use. After trying different type of connectors, I recommend XT60 or XT90. XT90-S is good for powerful batteries.
thanks for professional advice
Hi. Great vid again. Just purchased you book and I'm very impressed. I would recommend this book to all. Keep up the good work.
awesome guids, the ratings speak for themselves. I didn't see if you cover the heatsink of the BMS, and sometimes for higher power BMS the heatsink would melt the glue... all FETs and heatsinks benefit from capton/clearence/fets can melt nearby plastics/heatsink can be hot.
it tooks me 1 minute watching you video to get information i need. thank you.
You are the most honest person and amazing
Thank you very much, was stuck for months with this. My inverter charge and discharge on the same positive and negative, thus -p and -c will use my inverters negative split into two to solder them into the bms. Thanks. GOD bless.
I just want to thank you for making these videos. It really helped me a lot
You are awesome.
I'd recommend using a liquid flux when soldering.
Soldering acid helps also.
Thank you! the most important info was right away
Only one nation on the entire world's got tougeter no any other one.Very interesting and unique.
Micah thank you for sharing your knowledge with us, it made things a lot clearer for me
Love your videos man, always a go to when I'm building a battery. Thanks
Super valuable video. You are great at teaching things. Calm, professional and telling all the details like nickel thickness for certain amps. Highly appreciated video series. Maybe you could record something newer for the knowledge and experience you have in 2021? :)
Am sure u are a pro to solder the balance wires while they are connected to the bms.
Very clear video thanks
I thank you for your video its my license to understand the connections p- c- b- and finish my battery
Thank you very much.
if you have controller, you can bypass bms for discharging, then you'll need lower amperage bms and smaller
There seems to be a lot of comments from people connecting the wires on a bms in the wrong order and blowing them up. Is there a specific order that they should be connected and disconnected when removing a BMS?
Waiting to know how you found the bms replacement
Very nice video
What if my discharge and charge connectors are the same? Specifically, it is just one XT60 connector.
Yes same
Dont like having the bms on the pack, after a bms failed on me i have it connected to the charger now instead and just plug the balance lead from the pack in to the bms, and the xt 60 from the pack in to the bms xt60 + and -. This way if the bms fails it does not kill the pack (has happened to me and discharged a parallel section of batteries to 0v, killing the cells). Use an in line 40a fuse to the speed controller as your protection.
Great clearly explained video ,, thanks Shane uk
Wondering if you are able to essentially put this pack in series with other packs with each of their own bms all connected to a charger via their respective leads?
On this BMS, the sense wires are to be fixed to each cell + , but you solder them between the + and -- . If the BMS required that they were to be soldered on the -- end , where would they go ? In the same place ?
As you fixed them in between the + and -- of the cells, what determined that they were fixed to the + ? Is it the direction of flow ?
May I know what is the real difference between a BMS with negative charge connected to C- and one BMS without the C-? Is either one better than the other or what is the real advantage?
Hello, in the diagram on my BMS from Vruzend the P- is a blue wire, if you look (3:27) the C- is the blue wire.
so the discharge port is basically the power out that goes to the bike's controller?
Want kind of charger i need to use for this
Thank you my friend👌
Can u explain how should bms be connected if u are using it for motorcycle bike battery where there's is no charging port.
Basically we do not have different charging port and discharging port. We have charging and discharging from same port. I understood cell connection diagram.
Great video, and thanks! Quick question.... can I ignore the P- and just use it for charging the pack?
How do I wire it to charge and discharge through a single connector?
for high current battery packs the type of connectors is important, as well as their environment, if your powerpole are gonna be in a close non ventilated area, then the heat may warp the plastic.
also about high current, there's not only xt-90 , but also xt-90s hobbyking.com/en_us/xt90-s-anti-spark-connector-2pairs-bag.html which contain a pre-charge component, to hold off the sudden burst of current that could potentially damage the controller. (if you don't have an on/off switch) .
Hello and regards from Spain!
I have a question regarding the connections for the BMS. I made 3 lines of ten batteries in series (36V) and then connected them in parallel (~10Amp) . Shall I just connect the wires of my BMS to the positive terminals of just one line of batteries? Or shall I make a kind of bridge connection between each individual BMS wire and its corresponding three-cells set?
Thank you very much for your effort and instructive videos. You really motivated me to start up my personal projects!
You need to buy the book good luck..
is there a special reason why the P- cable is so thick compared to the other ones?
Why you solder main positive and negative all along the four cells. Wouldn’t it work just soldering those wires to any spot in thar nickel since they are already connected ?
thanks very helpful and informative
What would have floated my boat would have been a demonstration of the balance wiring placement sequence when you have 1 extra wire than the cells. Your book didn't make this clear enough either.
i watched a video were a guy put the discharge connector negative on the c- instead of P- and it still worked...i am so confused!
What happens if your motor wants to draw 60amps from the 50amp bms? will it shut down then come back on?
If the battery cells don't have 60A nor have the ability to deliver the true 60A but can deliver less than 50A then the BMS will not be triggered to shut the battery off..
Seems to be a gr8 video but all additional terminals or wires don't really make sense until explained in detail. Example is there an overload protect included and how does it work? Why more then 1 wire from the bms to the same terminal??
I have a 36V 11Ah Lithium bike battery and I accidentally shorted it. None of the cells are damaged but it seems the BMS 10s is. It does have a temperature sensor (twin black wire joined at the end in a resin cover). I wonder if there could have a fuse in the BMS and how to find it... Also, compared to the components shown in your video there are two more wires connecting the on/off button of the battery. Are they special or all BMS have them?
Finally, since you said that I need to know the amperage to know what BMS I need, my 5x10 cells are 2200mA and 37V and my bike engine is 500w. Is that enough to calculate the needed BMS amperage?
Thank you for sharing, it's a very cool and instructive series of videos.
I'd like to know what is the best way to make a 20s24p battery pack for a e-moto I'm building.
I know I need look for a 20s BMS, but should I weld the 24 batteries in parallel? Or would it be better to make 20s battery packs with, let's say 12 parallel cells, each one with a BMS, and then connect the battery packs into a larger battery pack.
Thank you
Hi! I have bought a bms and it doesn't have a C- wire. In stead, there are 2 P- wires and the manual says that I should connect the P- wires to the charger and the controller. Pls help.
I see a lot of people using hot melt glue directly on the pcb.... I was wondering if the glue became conductive over time? I have read on some forums about the same question and all I could find is people who are saying that they have done it forever and never had a problem with it.... VDO, a company that you might have heard of... makes instrument clusters for car's used to use super glue until year's later... the clusters were failing due to super glue becoming conductive and therefore creating a short circuit... it's just a thought but it just might be relevant...
Wow! Thanks for the excellent series and your easy going, very informative way of presenting the information. It is just what I needed to crest the learning curve! Questions: Do you believe these packs can be built without a traditional BMS? Also, who did the backround music in your "episode two"? Thanks, keep up the great work!
I gather that solder heat will damage the batteries, so I am wondering why it is OK to use the high temperature glue. From Amazon it would be about 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Can you comment on weather LFP batteries are more or less sensitive to temperature. Thank you for the great videos.
What if your bms on your battery has a on off switch an the one your replacing it with doesn't? Does this matter is there a way to wire ot in ? Pls help
I'm trying to replace Littolala 50a BMS and it says wire neg from charge connector to B- and the LOAD NEG to B- also. What is the load negative wire????
The BMS I am using only has a B- and P- which I have connected to a XT90 connector. What type of charger do I need?
Hallo Herr Mike
i have problem with my E Scooter it is work just for 30 second than turn it off , after 40 second turn it on again . it stays like this all the time.... i do not know what the problem exactly . please your Answer
nice videos.i was hoping i could salvage 2, 48v 6ah bottle style batteries.i dont see any videos with them opened up.i used the throttle to much when i first installed 1000w the front wheel kit.i use a 12ah bat.now and have a 6ah for backup.after i ruined the 2 batteries i mostly use pedal assist so to manage and save my batteries.
Hello.... Can i use a 14 gauge copper wire instead of 14 gauge silicone wire for the positive and negative terminal of the battery pack ? thank you for your videos ❤️♥️♥️
Thanks so much mate for this information I could not understand those signs C P B . Now i'm ready to go without exploding my lifepos :P
Hello ! I have a Samsung SDI battery (36.3v 10.0Ah 363.0Wh)... I'm looking for a BMS board to replace it, but I can not find the same one. Can I use any kind of BMS ? Thanks in advance.
My scooter build requires me to use 4 battery packs. Each pack is 12s1p, which are then all wired in parallel to make 12s4p. Is it possible to wire a bms to this frankenstien battery? Obviously if they were all in a single simple cube shape, like a normal 12s4p battery it would be possible, but I have no idea how I'd go about wiring the balance wires to my 4x48v battery packs...
i just want to ask what kind and size of wire to be use when wiring those 18650's
Thanks one more. You even show us how to solder nicely.. Is there any way we can check if the BMS has indeed a balancing function? And another question: Is it worth it to find BMSs with temperature sensor? Thanks.
The power wall people dont use a bms, why should they or why do you need to when they dont need to?
PLease update the links as some of them are not working. I am fan and currently working on building battery pack of 50AH, 48v and of 10A. I loved the series as you have covered every aspects.
very interesting each video,i am your fan from cuba,i would like to know about lithium balance using the device HTRC240duo
amazing videos!
Will 60/40 Electrical Rosin Core Solder AM31604 work fine to solder a battery pack and not melt fast? Melting temp is 374 Fahrenheit
Hi mike iam trying to find where to buy BMS from..I have a 13S 48V 25A
Do you need to solder the B- and the B+ to each spot in between all cells ? Or can you just do on one end of the nickel strip?
Hi, I have 48v 25Amps motor driver I have 20Amps should I change it to 60Amps BMS?
If using LiFePo4 cells on a car starter battery, where do have the BMS-charge /-discharge lines to be connected, because on a motorcar there are two connections only covering charging (from alternator) and discharging (to the starter motor) same time! 🤔
Is the bms here plug and play? I don't see any mention of how to program them
Excellent video's, thanks. I am replacing a BMS on my 36v bike battery pack and I have got the same BMS you show in the video. You don't mention wiring a switch. Are they the two connections on the left hand side of the 10 wire connector? If this is correct, shouldn't these connectors be bridged if no switch is used. The existing battery pack switch had small gauge wires to connectors on the BMS.
Can discharge port and charging port connect together? To make 1 port 2in1 discharge and charging. For this bms in your picture. Or is it i need to buy a bms board that only have 1 port?
Hi I have a massive issue I have 2 newish 60v 20ah 18650 battery pack can u just help me by looking to see if the rust / water damage is effecting the battery cells or it’s the bms Becuase I accidently plug the brake in the charge via controller
If you use a bms with to high of amps , does it mess up your controller? Please respond I need help with my battery
Useful hint: Some of the cheaper BMSs (like I can afford) are *rated* for 50A but need the channels reinforcing when you go above 20 (at least they were honest). A layer or two of pre-tinned solar cell ribbon along the power lines in the board will add the extra carrying capacity you need relatively easily and for cheap. It's also really easy to cut into the right shape and size.
How much current goes through the sense wires? Those I have are good enough for signals but not for power so I need to know whether or not they need replacing.
Any reason you're soldering the negative wires all the way along an already conductive nickel strip?
If you got a BMS with no B+, you first solder the B- to the battery and then solder the small wires as you like, in series or not, as in your video.
What if you have a BMS with B- AND B+? I've read that there's only one proper way to wire such BMS, else you could pop a few MOSFETs while attaching the cables.
Excellent video, answers a lot of questions I have had. I'm brand spankin new to this scene and love your videos!! I do have a question regarding the BMS. You mentioned to use a BMS with a little more amp capacity in order for safety. Would there a be a problem if the amp capacity is far greater than the amp capacity of my battery bank? For example, my battery bank would be approximately 54 amps. Would it be a problem if I were to use a 100 amp BMS (assumming it meets the number of cells of course). Please keep up the videos, they truly are amazing!!
I hate it when channels that beg for your subscription don't even take the time to answer questions. True mark of a douche worth using adblock for.Over rating your current on a BMS is no issue, higher you go, cooler it will run and safer it will be. Using same current as your controller max for BMS max like he did here is not smart.
slinkytreekreeper it's not his job to answer every question. People are lucky that have a very well edited video with a lot of good information. He's not even that big relatively speaking. Give him a break
are bms supposed get hot??mine gets real hot i am afraid to leave it plugged in??as it melts the hot glue??polarity is good seams to not work ass its drains the battery from 16.8volt to 13.5 volt thanks for your videos
Hi Ebikeschool
I want to ask if I need to connect the holes in B- and C- ? I wonder i have a type of BMS there are two holes each connection B- and C-. If i will connect 1 wire in 1 hole is it okay??or I need to connect both two holes? The B- can connect in last negative which is the last positive also??
Or two holes connection in 1 wire to 1st negative?
Mike,
If I build a LiFePO4 pack,does the little chips on top of each cell do they same as a BMS?
where do u buy the battery? I've asked polar battery, they sell 18650 for $18/each of 3000mA, which way more expensive than buy a pack already built.
What is the input voltage rating for 3s bms
hi Micah, i really love watching you're videos, you explain everything so clearly. i just want to ask about choosing the right BMS for my battery pack. lets say if i'm going to build a 12v 14.4ah (panasonic tesla LDTSL 21700, 3.7 4800mah 10A max 35A) what would be the recommended BMS ampere for this build, will a 3S 25A do?... i'm also trying to find a video on your channel how to calculate the Amps when building a battery pack. because in my example,if i use the tesla battery with a rating of 10A each with a 3P connection would that total 30A and do i need a 30A BMS?
I'm a bit confused as to what does what. I understand that lithium batteries need constant current / constant voltage charging. When you use a BMS, do you also need a "lithium charger" to do that, or is that functionality contained in the BMS, so that a simple regulated power supply + BMS is sufficient?
Please help. Just completed my 14s4p battery pack my problem the BMS 14 lead wire harness is now too short to reach the cells monitoring voltage. Can you recommend the tools and parts purchase for building your own wire harness? Or better yet a 14 lead harness with leads at least 12 inches long.
Exelent.Only one
Does the bms with b positive have p positive instead????
When the battery is fully charged the charger stops the charge process. Does the charger stop it or is it the BMS in the battery that stops it?
Hello! please help me with a tip i need a bms but i don't know how many volts and how many amps it should have, for a li ion battery 14s 51.8v 40ah i have a brushless motor sss56104 790kv 6000w and a pro marine ESC 300A.Thank you
Thank you Micah! :D
Hello, thanks for all your videos. I have a question why there are Lithium batteries with many exterior wires and other with only two. In my case I have a 6 batteries Lithium. With two thick wires ( black and red) and five small wires ( yellow, blue, red, black, white).
What are the function of the 5 wires? Does those batteries has a BMS?