The butyl tape seal is actually the primary seal. The lap sealant that you put over the outside or silicone is really just a secondary barrier and only designed to redirect water for the most part.
I always like to tell people the first thing the water touches is the primary. The tape does a wonderful job but with how they seal against the RV most water heaters have openings in the corners, which would leak if the silicone failed so in this case I still consider the tape secondary to silicone.
@@thompsonrvservice I guess I just always considered the thing that goes between the two things you're sealing the primary seal. It's been the general consensus of professionals I've talked to as well. This is also supported by pretty much every thing you read online. I think you're the only person I know that doesn't think that way. Possibly on something like a water heater If it does not have a contiguous flange to seal against that might not be true but most penetrations have a contiguous flange that allows it to seal against the wall / roof.
@@DoRC I’m talking about the water heaters specifically as there flange isn’t continuous around the whole opening. I do agree that a primary seal is between two surfaces in most cases. When it comes to RVs the primary defense of water intrusion on the exterior is silicone so I like to teach people to constantly check over there seals for cracking.
OK, after a year later how's it working for you? I am near ready to purchase this one. I would like a Truma but it's way our of line with the installers cost too. Actually thats funny of them to think they are the only one's to install theirs
At the bathroom faucet which is the closest to the heater it’s about 32oz of water until it’s hot. So a little more water waste compared to the tank but really good for the price point.
I have an Atwood. My ground is green and the orange is the hot. Is that the same as your Suburban? I have a buddy that has a Suburban that is going to install a Furrion in his.
I was waiting for the wiring. I also have a suburban. I also have the 12V switch and electric switch on my panel. What did you do with those switches???
The 12v switch for propane will be used to turn on the new tankless the electric switch won’t be used anymore unless you repurpose the outlet the heater plugged into.
SO, going back and forth between this video and the install in Nathan's Solitude, I'm trying to understand the extra wood framing you put into Nathan's install. Did he order the wrong size?
Mine was a factory 6 gallon and his was the 12 so the opening is larger all heaters are built for the smaller opening and they sell different size doors.
I seen u have all the wires like we had. Do what wires did u use? We have red green and blue wires. Do u have same color wires coming from ur rv? If so which wires were for what? What did u do with ur 110 wires?
I'd love for you to post an update with how it handles the colder temperatures. The manual states to not use it below 34F and that it should be winterized instead, which defeats the use of it for fulltimers honestly. Those kind of temps can hit anytime out of the blue even in warmer areas.
We have had it in colder weather down to 30 and unfortunately it doesn’t work the best once it gets below 40. We didn’t have issues with freezing but it was only staying that cold during the early mornings.
@@thompsonrvservice Thank you! Good to know. This is an issue Furrion needs to fix. I'll be mainly staying in warmer areas, but even in the summer areas in the north can get down to the 30s in the summer. Thanks again!
@@MichelleDijares Not a problem it’s been a ok heater for the price but I don’t recommend it for everyone. We will upgrade ours in the future for the Truma.
It’s worked well other then in colder weather we got down to 30 and it wasn’t able to produce hot water just warm. For the price it’s great as long as your staying in warmer climates.
We are having an issue with our unit staying ignited. Is this common after a week of not using it? We keep getting the E1 error code. We have checked all the basic elements like water being on, propane functioning properly, and still nothing. We have not had issues with it since we installed it back in April 2022.
We’ve been on the same tank of propane for over a month and live full time. The only other propane we use is from the stove and black stone. So I believe it’s good on propane.
I need to order a water hater and I was also looking at the furrion because they have a black door option and my RV is mostly black. My current regular water heater is a 10 gallon. I’m not sure where to measure for what size door I’ll need? Like do I measure the door itself height and width or where the outside trim is as well? Can you please tell me what tools/measurements I’ll need and what sealants and any other items? I have been calling around for a tech but they want to overcharge me but I don’t know how to do this. Any advice and help I’d greatly appreciate.
Hi Katie you can measure the door to get the appropriate door. You will need at minimum a screwdriver, scraper, wire cutters, wire crimpers, caulk gun, and multi meter. You will need butyl tape and clear 100% silicone. As for install typical time is about 1-2 hours.
I know this is an older video but, why do people think these use more LP gas that a tank water heater, these use the propane while the water is running through and, yes at a much higher volume but, a tank heater runs continuously while you are taking a shower, trying to keep up and it runs all 24 hours intermittently keeping the water to the temp you want. I don't think the LP consumption is most folks first concern when you have hot water on demand all the time even "if" it does take a little more gas which, I don't see any data.
Unfortunately my unit failed within a few days I sent it back and ordered a Girard GSWH-2 Tankless RV Water Heater. Maybe I just had a defective unit but I still went with Girard because it was 150 cheaper then the furrion
That element gets corroded in winter months, but still working fine. You can clean up the thread by using our tool rotary thread (shameless plug) to fix/restore it or you can always buy a new one lol. Btw I love your detailed installation and cinematography!
Your video absolutely sucks. How are you showing to install video when you don’t show the complete install. You don’t show the wire connections being hooked up, you don’t show what to do with additional wires that are coming over to the original hot water heater. This video just sucks.
Every RV is going to be different when it comes to the wiring. I’ve installed this exact heater in multiple units and it’s always different. If you would like I also do virtual consulting if you still need help.
Great video!! Probably gonna do the same replacement in my 5er soon. Thnx again, lot’s of good info.
Glad to help out let me know if you have any questions!
The butyl tape seal is actually the primary seal. The lap sealant that you put over the outside or silicone is really just a secondary barrier and only designed to redirect water for the most part.
I always like to tell people the first thing the water touches is the primary. The tape does a wonderful job but with how they seal against the RV most water heaters have openings in the corners, which would leak if the silicone failed so in this case I still consider the tape secondary to silicone.
@@thompsonrvservice I guess I just always considered the thing that goes between the two things you're sealing the primary seal. It's been the general consensus of professionals I've talked to as well. This is also supported by pretty much every thing you read online. I think you're the only person I know that doesn't think that way.
Possibly on something like a water heater If it does not have a contiguous flange to seal against that might not be true but most penetrations have a contiguous flange that allows it to seal against the wall / roof.
@@DoRC I’m talking about the water heaters specifically as there flange isn’t continuous around the whole opening. I do agree that a primary seal is between two surfaces in most cases. When it comes to RVs the primary defense of water intrusion on the exterior is silicone so I like to teach people to constantly check over there seals for cracking.
@@thompsonrvservice Yeah definitely. As you know water is the main enemy of campers.
OK, after a year later how's it working for you? I am near ready to purchase this one. I would like a Truma but it's way our of line with the installers cost too. Actually thats funny of them to think they are the only one's to install theirs
Love the attention to detail on the install! I’d love to see the time to hot water at the faucet. Great work!
At the bathroom faucet which is the closest to the heater it’s about 32oz of water until it’s hot. So a little more water waste compared to the tank but really good for the price point.
I have an Atwood. My ground is green and the orange is the hot. Is that the same as your Suburban? I have a buddy that has a Suburban that is going to install a Furrion in his.
I was waiting for the wiring. I also have a suburban. I also have the 12V switch and electric switch on my panel. What did you do with those switches???
The 12v switch for propane will be used to turn on the new tankless the electric switch won’t be used anymore unless you repurpose the outlet the heater plugged into.
SO, going back and forth between this video and the install in Nathan's Solitude, I'm trying to understand the extra wood framing you put into Nathan's install. Did he order the wrong size?
Mine was a factory 6 gallon and his was the 12 so the opening is larger all heaters are built for the smaller opening and they sell different size doors.
I seen u have all the wires like we had. Do what wires did u use? We have red green and blue wires. Do u have same color wires coming from ur rv? If so which wires were for what? What did u do with ur 110 wires?
You have to use a multimeter to tell you which is the 12v power. The 110 wires aren’t used so you can cap them.
LCI does make some good units.
I'd love for you to post an update with how it handles the colder temperatures. The manual states to not use it below 34F and that it should be winterized instead, which defeats the use of it for fulltimers honestly. Those kind of temps can hit anytime out of the blue even in warmer areas.
We have had it in colder weather down to 30 and unfortunately it doesn’t work the best once it gets below 40. We didn’t have issues with freezing but it was only staying that cold during the early mornings.
@@thompsonrvservice Thank you! Good to know. This is an issue Furrion needs to fix. I'll be mainly staying in warmer areas, but even in the summer areas in the north can get down to the 30s in the summer. Thanks again!
@@MichelleDijares Not a problem it’s been a ok heater for the price but I don’t recommend it for everyone. We will upgrade ours in the future for the Truma.
I know someone who lives in Vancouver, BC who uses it in 17F temps and with low water pressure
I just installed one yesterday. The controller doesn't work. 12VDC supplied to it. I've been reading dealing with Furrion is a pain in the ass.
Any update for n this unit after a few months?
It’s worked well other then in colder weather we got down to 30 and it wasn’t able to produce hot water just warm. For the price it’s great as long as your staying in warmer climates.
Where does the propane line go?
It is on the inside of the unit
How about the weight of the tankless compare with the one that was installed?
Both units empty the Furrion is roughly 10 pounds heavier. With the tank full the Furrion is 40 pounds lighter.
We are having an issue with our unit staying ignited. Is this common after a week of not using it? We keep getting the E1 error code. We have checked all the basic elements like water being on, propane functioning properly, and still nothing. We have not had issues with it since we installed it back in April 2022.
E1 is the unit not firing after trying twice. I would check your propane first as the most common cause is low propane.
How "efficient" on Lp is it?
We’ve been on the same tank of propane for over a month and live full time. The only other propane we use is from the stove and black stone. So I believe it’s good on propane.
I need to order a water hater and I was also looking at the furrion because they have a black door option and my RV is mostly black. My current regular water heater is a 10 gallon. I’m not sure where to measure for what size door I’ll need? Like do I measure the door itself height and width or where the outside trim is as well? Can you please tell me what tools/measurements I’ll need and what sealants and any other items? I have been calling around for a tech but they want to overcharge me but I don’t know how to do this. Any advice and help I’d greatly appreciate.
Hi Katie you can measure the door to get the appropriate door. You will need at minimum a screwdriver, scraper, wire cutters, wire crimpers, caulk gun, and multi meter. You will need butyl tape and clear 100% silicone. As for install typical time is about 1-2 hours.
I know this is an older video but, why do people think these use more LP gas that a tank water heater, these use the propane while the water is running through and, yes at a much higher volume but, a tank heater runs continuously while you are taking a shower, trying to keep up and it runs all 24 hours intermittently keeping the water to the temp you want. I don't think the LP consumption is most folks first concern when you have hot water on demand all the time even "if" it does take a little more gas which, I don't see any data.
Do I need to be anything to be able to run the propane to the back of the tank?
All the ones I have installed I’ve been able to bend the line around to hook up.
@@thompsonrvservice also how hard is it to use a 16”x16” on the 16”x18 opening. Can it be modified to still seal?
@@ivanj9110 that isn’t impossible but will look unfinished. You can order just the door to get the correct size.
@@thompsonrvservice ok cool. Thank you very much the quick responses.
Is there a way to check a controller that’s not coming on. Have power to unit but controller will not light up. Wife’s wanting hot water lol.
Did you check that you have 12v for the control wires?
@@thompsonrvservice so your saying there should be 12 volts coming thru the controller wires. That I have not done
@@dewaynehastings3191 I haven’t honestly tested to see what voltage is in those wires. Did you wire the 12v to the back of the heater?
@@thompsonrvservice it is twelve volt to the back of the water heater
@@dewaynehastings3191 yes
Did you install a pop-off valve or was it already built into the unit?
The pressure relief valve is built in.
@@thompsonrvservice 👍
Unfortunately my unit failed within a few days I sent it back and ordered a Girard GSWH-2 Tankless RV Water Heater. Maybe I just had a defective unit but I still went with Girard because it was 150 cheaper then the furrion
@@iair-conditiontheoutsideai3076 the girard is another great choice. Sorry the other failed so quickly.
@@iair-conditiontheoutsideai3076 what part failed on the unit?
That element gets corroded in winter months, but still working fine. You can clean up the thread by using our tool rotary thread (shameless plug) to fix/restore it or you can always buy a new one lol. Btw I love your detailed installation and cinematography!
Thank you
Does anyone know if I can have it in Cold / Freezing temps. -10°f.. or do they make one
6gal. Atwood
Furrion does not recommend to use below freezing. Truma tankless can be used in freezing temperatures.
Check out the Girard GSWH-2 Tankless RV Water Heater I have one personally I love it
You never explained how to connect power source all you did was connect the thermostat ??
It requires a 12v power source which just about all units use on any water heater. So you shouldn’t have to pull new wire.
Your video absolutely sucks. How are you showing to install video when you don’t show the complete install. You don’t show the wire connections being hooked up, you don’t show what to do with additional wires that are coming over to the original hot water heater. This video just sucks.
Every RV is going to be different when it comes to the wiring. I’ve installed this exact heater in multiple units and it’s always different. If you would like I also do virtual consulting if you still need help.
You should make your own video so people can blast you. Go have a cookie or two, maybe with a glass of milk and you will get sweeter
Worthless
What is worthless?
must use a lot more propane
We live fulltime and only use the propane for the water heater and outside fire pit we get about 2 months per 30lb tank.