When C-notching the frame, always center punch and drill a hole at the corners prior to cutting out the C. This prevents the frame from cracking due to stress, vs just making straight cuts in to the corners.
@@poolesperformance6146 They never show welding it internally so I don't think it is. The way their reinforcement goes on as 1 piece leaves no way to do it and they didn't have any other pieces welded in the frame before putting it on.
Guys I have a 1990 Chevy C1500 350 sport , identical to the truck you guys are working on. You are building it very similar to what I had in mind for mine. I’ve never had a bunch of money so I had to buy parts here and there so my truck set up for many years. Just when I got rolling good with my build my shop burnt down with everything own in it. I was in the process of moving so when I got back to Louisiana I had no place to really live so I moved all my stuff in my parents shop. All my new parts all my tools I mean eve that was in my last home was stored in the shop. A couple months later the shop burnt to the ground with all my stuff in it. Then top it all off I got screwed out of my transmission from a local builder. I am almost in tears watching you guys build this truck! You guys are doing a top notch job on that truck. I hope one day soon I’ll get the money together again but it don’t look like that will happen to soon. Thanks guys for all the good ideas. I really like the rear end work you guys built for the truck
One minute in, seeing new motor and dirty as-eff chassis and thinking "Sarah-n-Tuned would have cleaned that chassis, corrected roadchips, reapplied sound deadener and anti-corrosion waxed,..." before fitting the motor :D
@PiDsMedia that's what I was thinking also. I would have pulled the engine,trans and all suspension and cleaned the frame. Then do the rear suspension mods then pull it apart to paint. Next would have been the front suspension after painting. Engine last as there's a lot of weight with it and without the rear suspension and bed it could have tipped the truck off the lift. Did you also catch the right front caliper hanging by it's hose? Later it was sitting on the frame.
@@baileydbenson1 Not about 'show', about 'doing the job properly'. These aren't parts anyone else will see, only the person who's done the work will get to appreciate that it was done correctly.
@@bradenkowal8117 That may be true, but doing the wrong thing, even on bad parts, will just force the habit and you might end up breaking your new parts because of it.
@@robertbrown9122 correct, but they didn't use a floater. They used a standard Ford axle with press on bearing which is inferior when used for track duty.
@@robertbrown9122 let me explain further, with a floater setup the hubs ride on snouts welded to the rearend housing and attached with a large retainer nut. On a standard housing if you have an axle failure the entire wheel assembly will come off, whereas a floater will not. A floater is like what they run in nascar and other short tracks around the country.
The way you did the rear suspension is a waste of a truck not to mention that cantilever setup is going to stress there pivot mounts big time the way you did it ever see a mount fail that is responsible for holding a vehicle up. Should have engineered the cantilever setup parallel to frame still have same function and and not side load the pivots as the rear-end torques. This also would alow to mount the pivot below a mount so instead of pulling at mounting it is compressing the mounting. Lastly this would have give full use of bed and a much stronger longer lasting setup.
Why not upgrade the steering with rack and pinion as well? Sorry if that's a goofy question but I've watched tons of obs and nbs4x4 videos and NOBODY EVER attempts to install a rack. Take 4x4 nbs for instance, all it would take is the 2wd nbs rack and sway bar and lower universal on the steering shaft. As long as the rack was perfectly centered, and you relocated the frame mounts for the sway bar, it wouldn't really be a whole lot of modifications
I love it when people do things that aren't totally necessary just because you can. Imagination is a great thing in hobbies I reckon. I put a cross ram intake on a SBC in my 4x4 truck for the same reason - oh and a really expensive Milodon single idler gear drive. In case anyone was wondering it is totally, completely, utterly silent when set up as per the instructions - as quiet as the chain it replaced. I was hoping for a very slight but noticeable whir. Apparently the crappy dual idler 'quiet' are still pretty loud but I was never going to put one of those in anyhow. Oh well it'll last forever and the front seal is easy to replace now.
I hope when you finish welding up all the new suspension plates you take all the nuts off and replace them with nylock nuts and hard face washers. At the very minimum you fit tho old nuts and spring washers.
Just for future reference, avoid heat hardening driveshafts by using a grinder like that, they become brittle. Try using a liquid cooled bandsaw for the initial cut or just ask a local machine shop with a proper lathe.
Listen, if someone is watching this to learn about a custom cantilever rear suspension, I think you can forego how a lubricant spray straw works. Just saying...
Encore applaudissement sur vos modifs'cars& mécaniques j'aime vos façons2 trouver solutions à 1 reparation'compliquees où adaptées pieces carrosserie& mécanique introuvable pour les véhicules à réparer où à adaptées pour qu'il sort du garage& roule en toute sécurité en tenue2 route??
I would think that triangulating the lower arms would eliminate the need for the panhard link and the resulting yaw movement of the rear axle as the panhard moves through its arc. I know its minimal but, at speed through a bumpy turn, it might be enough to affect handling ever so slightly.
You're not supposed to torque up bushings without weight on the suspension. Nobody would care for some shitbox, but you guys are building this thing up pretty hard for handling... Also how come a Panhard bar instead of a Watt's link?
I wish yall would post up what specs on the axle housing etc.. Also the wheel specs too, some of us out there are doing something similar and your specs gives us a good idea of what to expect. Other than that awesome work! Love the show! Thanks for sharing! I have the same truck per se, Mark 3 conversion stepside painted destroyer gray, t56 swap, 7875 gen3+built LQ4, just gotta rework the rear and suspension and get away from the 454ss wheels I got on and move onto something more tasteful and wider/taller along with a brake upgrade!
You can always use a regular ratchet wrench / breaker bar on those lug nuts instead of the impact, then tell us you are not suppose to use the impact..
It's easier to do the mock up before painting. Just in case something doesn't fit right, they don't have to waste time grinding of the paint, then repaint again.
Never tighten up control arm bushings in the hanging position. It puts the bushing in a bind. Always relax the bushing and set to normal operating position before tightening
Hey powernation...I have been a Chevy, GMC, BUICK, CADILLAC, PONTIAC, anything G.M, since I was around 10 ish, as well as my father was, now after been dedicated to the G.M FAMILY for 40+yrs, I have no idea what "O.B.S" means🤔, on that Chevy truck🚚, also what do the LETTERS..."L.S" mean, YOU would think I would know that, well I don't.🤪
@@4x4Mudmaster powernation ty fer the reply I appreciate it, we live up here in Ontario Canada, about 1.5hrs west of Toronto Ontario, were on a city called guelph, ...if u cant say it...go-well-elf. Watching you guys for over 20yrs love it
Cutting axles with a cut-off wheel,... Did no one suggest putting it in a lathe and doing the job properly ?? FFS, you can see in the vision the cut isn't square to the long axis. And, why were they not measured with a spacer that matches the backing plate for the brakes? There's a high possibility those axles are not fully engaged on the splines now.
What dam shame God dam can someone do up one of these trucks without lowering it. Not everyone likes lowered truck's ! I personally hate them think they look like complete ass and frustrates a guy seeing the frame of a classic being butchered!
Yall should definitely engineer that rear suspension as a kit and put it on the market. That is sick!
I agree
YES PLEASE. MAKE IT AVAILABLE
Do it!
Yep 👍
Same her man
When C-notching the frame, always center punch and drill a hole at the corners prior to cutting out the C. This prevents the frame from cracking due to stress, vs just making straight cuts in to the corners.
Very true especially for bolt in notches. But the way they welded it in there is no chance of any cracks. It welded internally and perimeter welded. .
@@poolesperformance6146 They never show welding it internally so I don't think it is. The way their reinforcement goes on as 1 piece leaves no way to do it and they didn't have any other pieces welded in the frame before putting it on.
Guys I have a 1990 Chevy C1500 350 sport , identical to the truck you guys are working on. You are building it very similar to what I had in mind for mine. I’ve never had a bunch of money so I had to buy parts here and there so my truck set up for many years. Just when I got rolling good with my build my shop burnt down with everything own in it. I was in the process of moving so when I got back to Louisiana I had no place to really live so I moved all my stuff in my parents shop.
All my new parts all my tools I mean eve that was in my last home was stored in the shop. A couple months later the shop burnt to the ground with all my stuff in it. Then top it all off I got screwed out of my transmission from a local builder. I am almost in tears watching you guys build this truck! You guys are doing a top notch job on that truck. I hope one day soon I’ll get the money together again but it don’t look like that will happen to soon. Thanks guys for all the good ideas. I really like the rear end work you guys built for the truck
Sick engineering on this rear end, great job!
Wait a minute, did they just try to market a standard aerosol spray can nozzle as “3 ways to spray” ? Like it’s some patent pending exclusive?
best part of the Beryymans commerical was the truck was about as rust free as you can get it for the year. Even the cotter pins where accessible....
I was a little envious. Living up in Alberta Canada, I wish that was the amount of rust we deal with. I guess Ontario's a little worse off than us.
I don't think I've ever seen these guys torch a bolt loose. The single most effective option when there isn't risk/concern of burning near by parts.
New uploads always make my day a little better.
At the 2:09 mark, did we really need a tutorial on how to use a spray can???????!!!!
The most structure I've seen on the c notch. Very nice.
Great job. That's a slick rear set up.
Love this stuff hopefully I get to do things like this in my career
Tv nuts and bolts are just so understanding. Little spray here and there. Marvelous. 😂
One minute in, seeing new motor and dirty as-eff chassis and thinking "Sarah-n-Tuned would have cleaned that chassis, corrected roadchips, reapplied sound deadener and anti-corrosion waxed,..." before fitting the motor :D
@PiDsMedia that's what I was thinking also. I would have pulled the engine,trans and all suspension and cleaned the frame. Then do the rear suspension mods then pull it apart to paint. Next would have been the front suspension after painting. Engine last as there's a lot of weight with it and without the rear suspension and bed it could have tipped the truck off the lift. Did you also catch the right front caliper hanging by it's hose? Later it was sitting on the frame.
Leave it ugly AF, then go spank some un-assuming ass...all Go, screw show.
@@baileydbenson1 Not about 'show', about 'doing the job properly'.
These aren't parts anyone else will see, only the person who's done the work will get to appreciate that it was done correctly.
Must be going on the moon with that one.
Last year..."you guys couldn't fabricate an excuse!"
This year..."This is the best show on tv..EVER!"
You guys do Superior work! It's fun watching you being Excellent!
That’s a wild set up! Can’t wait to see it in action.
3:21 they’re at it again with letting the brake calipers hang by the brake line.
Who cares? Its all getting replaced......
@@bradenkowal8117 That may be true, but doing the wrong thing, even on bad parts, will just force the habit and you might end up breaking your new parts because of it.
berryman products are the exact same as seafoam but cost 5X less.
panhard bar is pronounced "pannard"
Why would you do a pro touring build and skimp out on the rearend?
Should have used a 9in floater, especially for track duty.
They said they were using a 9 in from Speedway Motors twice.
@@robertbrown9122 correct, but they didn't use a floater. They used a standard Ford axle with press on bearing which is inferior when used for track duty.
@@robertbrown9122 let me explain further, with a floater setup the hubs ride on snouts welded to the rearend housing and attached with a large retainer nut.
On a standard housing if you have an axle failure the entire wheel assembly will come off, whereas a floater will not.
A floater is like what they run in nascar and other short tracks around the country.
The way you did the rear suspension is a waste of a truck not to mention that cantilever setup is going to stress there pivot mounts big time the way you did it ever see a mount fail that is responsible for holding a vehicle up. Should have engineered the cantilever setup parallel to frame still have same function and and not side load the pivots as the rear-end torques. This also would alow to mount the pivot below a mount so instead of pulling at mounting it is compressing the mounting. Lastly this would have give full use of bed and a much stronger longer lasting setup.
Its a race truck not a sunday cruiser... the way they did it is just fine and looks plenty strong enough
These guys weld like I wish I could
Why not upgrade the steering with rack and pinion as well? Sorry if that's a goofy question but I've watched tons of obs and nbs4x4 videos and NOBODY EVER attempts to install a rack. Take 4x4 nbs for instance, all it would take is the 2wd nbs rack and sway bar and lower universal on the steering shaft. As long as the rack was perfectly centered, and you relocated the frame mounts for the sway bar, it wouldn't really be a whole lot of modifications
Wow best rear end set up out there this guys skills are at another level excellent job I wonder about how much something like this would cost.
That's a sweet LS! I love the color scheme. Nice to see some pretty non-standard colors being used.
I want to see how those front mounts work out for you all
Yeah this one is enjoyable to watch, shame you both don't gel well together.
What are the wheel specs ? Diameter, width, backspace, and offset?
I love it when people do things that aren't totally necessary just because you can.
Imagination is a great thing in hobbies I reckon. I put a cross ram intake on a SBC in my 4x4 truck for the same reason - oh and a really expensive Milodon single idler gear drive. In case anyone was wondering it is totally, completely, utterly silent when set up as per the instructions - as quiet as the chain it replaced. I was hoping for a very slight but noticeable whir. Apparently the crappy dual idler 'quiet' are still pretty loud but I was never going to put one of those in anyhow. Oh well it'll last forever and the front seal is easy to replace now.
I hope when you finish welding up all the new suspension plates you take all the nuts off and replace them with nylock nuts and hard face washers. At the very minimum you fit tho old nuts and spring washers.
omg that cotter pin direction. I vommed all over myself and all the aircraft tech it comes from.
Damn,.. thats bad ass.
Explain all the advantages or disadvantages of this type suspension system..
Just for future reference, avoid heat hardening driveshafts by using a grinder like that, they become brittle. Try using a liquid cooled bandsaw for the initial cut or just ask a local machine shop with a proper lathe.
They weren't cutting any driveshafts.....
reast in peace bed........... i guess you wont be having a pickup bed --- or it will be unsual for sure with those shocks that way!
Its a race truck not a grocery getter
U should welded an extra support bracket to the gas tank,while you were right there....😱
Could you guys post all the dimensions for that rear suspension so views could fabricate at home?
отлично сделали парни!!!!!!!
Listen, if someone is watching this to learn about a custom cantilever rear suspension, I think you can forego how a lubricant spray straw works. Just saying...
Looks great guys!
Lucky you
Bon courage au mécano à tout faire en modifications'suspensions& tout'autres en motorisation mécanique& carrosserie
Holy Dimes Batman, that guy can weld!
Autozone harbor freight and now speedway oh hell yeah here comes some builds
I love this project
Very enjoyable and well presented
Nice build!
Awesome episode
Awsomesauce of a build
nice fab and design on the c-notch
I need those shackle hangers. Lol.
Encore applaudissement sur vos modifs'cars& mécaniques j'aime vos façons2 trouver solutions à 1 reparation'compliquees où adaptées pieces carrosserie& mécanique introuvable pour les véhicules à réparer où à adaptées pour qu'il sort du garage& roule en toute sécurité en tenue2 route??
Awesome job guys
Can you do the same for a rear on an 85 El Camino?
I would think that triangulating the lower arms would eliminate the need for the panhard link and the resulting yaw movement of the rear axle as the panhard moves through its arc. I know its minimal but, at speed through a bumpy turn, it might be enough to affect handling ever so slightly.
Why not IRS?
You're not supposed to torque up bushings without weight on the suspension. Nobody would care for some shitbox, but you guys are building this thing up pretty hard for handling... Also how come a Panhard bar instead of a Watt's link?
What was the piece they put on the top of the rear axle that goes forward
All that work to maintain the panhard bar?
"Come's apart pretty easy"
proceed to hit with a hammer
yeah, that's easy still.
Enjoyed!!!!
That rear brake looks overkill, but its a amazing build!
Do you guys have like this suspension for 2014 Chevy Silverado one cab
I wish yall would post up what specs on the axle housing etc.. Also the wheel specs too, some of us out there are doing something similar and your specs gives us a good idea of what to expect. Other than that awesome work! Love the show! Thanks for sharing!
I have the same truck per se, Mark 3 conversion stepside painted destroyer gray, t56 swap, 7875 gen3+built LQ4, just gotta rework the rear and suspension and get away from the 454ss wheels I got on and move onto something more tasteful and wider/taller along with a brake upgrade!
You can always use a regular ratchet wrench / breaker bar on those lug nuts instead of the impact, then tell us you are not suppose to use the impact..
That rear end is a big job. It cool tho.
Don’t know if you mentioned it, but what gear ratios are you running?
Can you put the part# for those headers up
14:44 you do know there is a gas tank that has a high chance of venting right there..... :o
Hey, those rear brakes look like a combo drum/disc setup. I can't say I've seen that before.
The drum part is the parking brake. Pretty common with rear discs.
That's a very common set up now days. I see that you don't work on anything from this century...
How come you guys don't clean the chassis before putting on new parts? Everything has great access to clean & repaint.
It's easier to do the mock up before painting. Just in case something doesn't fit right, they don't have to waste time grinding of the paint, then repaint again.
Never tighten up control arm bushings in the hanging position. It puts the bushing in a bind. Always relax the bushing and set to normal operating position before tightening
Leads to vehicle stuck on the side of the road with collapsed suspension,....
Poly bushings..... 🙄. Why can't you people just learn the damn difference.
Because not everyone uses poly bushings!! 🤷
Awesome work! Glad power nation stopped making you guys act like tryhards and let you be more natural
surprised they didn't use a full floating rear end
Oh great. Another chevrolet
I love these builds, but Jeremy and Jimmy have the personality of wet bread
While I was there I enjoyed spending time in their studio chilling with both of them and their production crew. All super great guys
Hey powernation...I have been a Chevy, GMC, BUICK, CADILLAC, PONTIAC, anything G.M, since I was around 10 ish, as well as my father was, now after been dedicated to the G.M FAMILY for 40+yrs, I have no idea what "O.B.S" means🤔, on that Chevy truck🚚, also what do the LETTERS..."L.S" mean, YOU would think I would know that, well I don't.🤪
88-99 is Old Body Style 00+ is nbs.
@@4x4Mudmaster powernation ty fer the reply I appreciate it, we live up here in Ontario Canada, about 1.5hrs west of Toronto Ontario, were on a city called guelph, ...if u cant say it...go-well-elf. Watching you guys for over 20yrs love it
What dose OBS stand for
Old Body Style
Lol, almost all of the hardware was installed reverse standard practice.
WOW the number of close minded crotchety Nancy's in the comments us unreal....is this what PowerNation has become?
"Pro touring" really refers to the suspension more than anything then right. I mean the power train is all that is left.
So many things you don't do was filmed in this episode.
Cutting axles with a cut-off wheel,... Did no one suggest putting it in a lathe and doing the job properly ?? FFS, you can see in the vision the cut isn't square to the long axis.
And, why were they not measured with a spacer that matches the backing plate for the brakes? There's a high possibility those axles are not fully engaged on the splines now.
Would the front suspension upgrade help deal with the Chevy Lean on the driver side?
More than likely. The lean is usually attributed to a weak spring.
The coil overs are height adjustable so yes
3 link is an awesome design, but that cantilever decision was odd.
Those rocker arm angles on that cantilever design looks like a very harsh ride is in store for that truck. Almost renders the shocks useless.
👍🏻
267👍's up guys thanks for the information
I wish they would have explained what it was they put the the rear end and how it work. Unless they don’t even know.
Yeah the design of the cantilever is what I was interested as well as maybe an alternate for the third bar tensioner
Not going to have much of a bed on that truck huh?
With what the truck is designed for they probably aren't going to be hauling anything in the bed.....
A Narrow notch will handle it...it's a race truck not a lawn service
Hi
😁✌🖖👍👌😎
Didn't make it past the stupid musi
Watching Americans take measurements is like….
“I’ll just cut off 2 sandbags and 1 hammock.
WTF measurements are you guys talking in?
And now the shocks will ruin the bed space. Not cool.
Race. Truck.
Please contact ck worldwide 🌐 and get the right tig accessories it's been driving me nuts lol but sweet suspension design
Hey TH-cam definitely played the racism card on this one because her modifying the truck the commercials are in Spanish that is definitely racist
Omg... Please use firearm lubricant not penetrant... Unless you want an oily mess on your hands.
Ugly rims
What dam shame God dam can someone do up one of these trucks without lowering it. Not everyone likes lowered truck's ! I personally hate them think they look like complete ass and frustrates a guy seeing the frame of a classic being butchered!
Not everyone loves parade floats either..
@@CanadaBud23 get to the point
Someone doesn't know what channel they are on...stock farm truck nation is one over lol
Its a race truck....not a sunday cruiser