I just changed my washing machine drain hose. I slid out my DIY riser to gain access to the back. No problem. I made my risers at least 12 years ago, they're still rock solid. Thought I'd share. Front loading washer and dryer. First you want a riser for each appliance., so you can slide each one without having to move both. I just slid my washer out to get access to the back. Any repairman will someday need to do this, and you want access to the back of the dryer to clean out the lint (a fire hazzard) and to reattach the hose when it falls off a week after the installer leaves. (It always does.) The room mine are in is very tight, just a few inches wider than both machines and the depth is just a bit more than double. If I pulled them both out together, I couldn't get in the room. Much easier to slide them one at a time. But the tight walls keep everything in place -- that might be a factor for you. So 1. Plywood bottom - easily slides on the tile floor 2. 5/8" (16mm) BCX plywood so not the best grade, but exterior so it can get wet. You could build floor with this. 3. Open at the front and back so I can reach/see all the way through. Solid plywood sides and top. (so a rectangular box open at both ends.) 4. Structure needs to be rigid and strong. I have a lip across the front and back this stiffens the top and keeps the washer from shaking off the platform. Half way to the back I have the main structure. This is a 2x3 (3" is the vertical) going across side to side, and two 2x3 diagonal gussets. Screwed to the sides and screwed to the 2x3 . Tip: The whole top sits on the sides and the sides sit on the bottom, so the sides are supporting the weight on the top -- not screws from the side. and no edges against the floor, just a piece of plywood. (when you think structure: could you remove all the screws and it would still all 'work'? It's how your house is built.) 5. My dimensions are 20" (50cm) high, slightly wider than the machine and just slightly deeper than the machine. The lip keeps the appliances from sliding off. The height makes using my machines super easy. Lower wouldn't. 6. My washer bucks like a rodeo bull. However, my appliances are so tight that I just wedge some foam in between them and the wall. If they had more clearance they'd probably move around more. You might have to consider that. If I did anything else I'd add a drop down 'sock catcher' shelf on a hinge under the front loading washer. We always drop a sock or underpants on the floor. Maybe about 10" deep (25cm) folds up out of the way. Doesn't have to be strong. Riser that are sold are $300 USD each, only 16" high (40cm) and are made from plastic. Will they last 12 years? I know my risers will last a hundred. I've built houses. And confession. Checking my measurements I discovered I actually only have one riser that slides. I just noticed the dryer is on a permanently installed shelf. Stringer/ledge screwed to the wall. Stringer screwed to the floor that holds the side. So only one side and the top -- but a stiff strong diagonal 2x3 brace. So I gain access to the vent hose and back by sliding out the washer. Hope this helps. The one in the video is good, but it's overbuilt and under attached. You don't need all that structure. The base sits on the floor. The only thing the base needs to do is hold the posts so they won't splay apart. That could be just a piece of plywood on the bottom -- which would slide when you needed it to, or those posts properly attached to the top maybe diagonally gusseted on the top. They aren't. Each top and bottom frame, properly fastened, could support 10,000 lbs (4500kg). Overkill. Unless this is a plinth for your 2000kg Telsa. Any floor this will sit on will support double that. So you don't need the bottom frame at all. (I have one 2x3 running across the middle, then some plywood lips/stiffeners on the front and back. 12 years, as solid as the day I built it.) The screw heads are buried which on these 2x3s is not a problem, but if you bury a screw/nail head 1/4" into 1/2" plywood your head is only screwing a 1/4" piece of plywood - you waste half your holding power. For maximum fastening strength you want your head flush with the top, If strong is more important than pretty? Leave the heads slightly 'proud' on the surface. But on the bottom you want to slide without scratching... sure bury the heads a bit. My bottoms are stretchers holding the sides together and for sliding. I could've used 1/4" ply. Those nickle plated mending angles is amateur stuff. If you're using them either it's your mother in law's garage and you don't care or you're missing how to really attach something. Don't use them. Instead learn some house framing techniques. Incredibly powerful useful techniques. That's why I know how much weight your frame could support. (There are some great TH-cam videos on framing.) And the expensive cabinet grade plywood? You're never going to see it. Painting? Painting is nice, but spraying? Everything except those posts will never be seen. Sorry to be such a smug bast... hope this helps someone.
This is one of the very first videos of yours that I ever watched. I wasn't big on commenting back then so I wanted to say great job on another one bud!!!
Very nice video and very good pedestal. I did my self using your instructions. The only item that i am a bid confused is that the legs were made based on your measurements a total of 19.75" and my pedestal does look much taller than yours. Did you also used the 19.75 for the legs the total high of mine is 28"?
How did you lift the washer up on the stand?? i have a similar narrow room and have no way to get on both sides of the machine to do the lift onto the stand
Have you noticed any movement of the machines? I'm looking into building my own and have concern that the vibration could lead to them sliding different directions.
Hi Paul, I'm in the process of building this pedestal. I have the platforms and columns painted. The dry fit was perfect. When you attached the columns to the top shelf, did you drive the screw thru the plywood into the wood block only, or thru the block and into the support colum. If so, what type and length screw did you use?
How long did you let the paint dry before placing the appliances on top? We used oil based door and furniture paint. Not sure how long to let it sit for.
Doesn't the washer or dryer slide on this pedestal in the spin cycles? or do they stay put with no movement whatsoever? The regular pedestals have somethings to keep the washer or dryer fastened to the top surface with brackets or heavy duty bolts.
I would like to know how you lifted the machines up to get the pedestal under. I think my newer front load washer has a cement slab in it; extremely heavy.
So far its been about 14 months and its held up well so far, no vibration or any issues. Just make sure its level before putting the washer and dryer on top of course! You can also get anti-vibration pads or furniture pads (we just used furniture pads)
how's the vibration throughiut the house/floor? my only concern is that over time the machines will shake the crap out of the pedestals and the vibration will get worse over time
It has been 13 months in use so far, still vibration free. It was also a concern of mine but still been okay. There are also vibration pads on amazon if that is a concern for you.
Excellent video. Just subscribed and am going to check out your blog. Question: I have the exact same washer dryer...any chance you have complete measurements sketched up? No need to reinvent perfect 😉
I wish I had them for you. If its not on my blog post not sure anymore. This is now at my cousins house and not readily available for me to measure it.
Hi Eric, Its hard to say because I work on it couple hours here and there and since I'm always thinking about oh should I stop to film this part, slows things down. Also since I didn't have exact plans for the entire project I have to think things through and it takes me longer. I would say ~16-20 hours if I had to guess.
So I just finished doing this exact project today. I had the same question. I ended up using a thick piece of plywood as a ramp and had my dad help me roll it up on a dolly. Just make sure you secure both the pedestal and the ramp if you do it that way.
not to be a troll, but i see that the guard of the miter saw doesn't cover the blade completely. take it from someone that has had small injuries with spinning blades, you might want to repair that. besides that, i just finished our washer stand last night and mine didn't look as good as yours. thumbs up! (ours is a temporary solution as we will be moving later this year.
It's not logical to use for stand for washing machine and everyday getting wet by water the wooden stand.. the Best idea to use Steel or SSTL stand and not be affect by water.
I just changed my washing machine drain hose. I slid out my DIY riser to gain access to the back. No problem. I made my risers at least 12 years ago, they're still rock solid. Thought I'd share. Front loading washer and dryer.
First you want a riser for each appliance., so you can slide each one without having to move both. I just slid my washer out to get access to the back. Any repairman will someday need to do this, and you want access to the back of the dryer to clean out the lint (a fire hazzard) and to reattach the hose when it falls off a week after the installer leaves. (It always does.) The room mine are in is very tight, just a few inches wider than both machines and the depth is just a bit more than double. If I pulled them both out together, I couldn't get in the room. Much easier to slide them one at a time. But the tight walls keep everything in place -- that might be a factor for you.
So 1. Plywood bottom - easily slides on the tile floor
2. 5/8" (16mm) BCX plywood so not the best grade, but exterior so it can get wet. You could build floor with this.
3. Open at the front and back so I can reach/see all the way through. Solid plywood sides and top. (so a rectangular box open at both ends.)
4. Structure needs to be rigid and strong. I have a lip across the front and back this stiffens the top and keeps the washer from shaking off the platform. Half way to the back I have the main structure. This is a 2x3 (3" is the vertical) going across side to side, and two 2x3 diagonal gussets. Screwed to the sides and screwed to the 2x3 .
Tip: The whole top sits on the sides and the sides sit on the bottom, so the sides are supporting the weight on the top -- not screws from the side. and no edges against the floor, just a piece of plywood. (when you think structure: could you remove all the screws and it would still all 'work'? It's how your house is built.)
5. My dimensions are 20" (50cm) high, slightly wider than the machine and just slightly deeper than the machine. The lip keeps the appliances from sliding off. The height makes using my machines super easy. Lower wouldn't.
6. My washer bucks like a rodeo bull. However, my appliances are so tight that I just wedge some foam in between them and the wall. If they had more clearance they'd probably move around more. You might have to consider that.
If I did anything else I'd add a drop down 'sock catcher' shelf on a hinge under the front loading washer. We always drop a sock or underpants on the floor. Maybe about 10" deep (25cm) folds up out of the way. Doesn't have to be strong.
Riser that are sold are $300 USD each, only 16" high (40cm) and are made from plastic. Will they last 12 years? I know my risers will last a hundred. I've built houses.
And confession. Checking my measurements I discovered I actually only have one riser that slides. I just noticed the dryer is on a permanently installed shelf. Stringer/ledge screwed to the wall. Stringer screwed to the floor that holds the side. So only one side and the top -- but a stiff strong diagonal 2x3 brace. So I gain access to the vent hose and back by sliding out the washer. Hope this helps.
The one in the video is good, but it's overbuilt and under attached. You don't need all that structure. The base sits on the floor. The only thing the base needs to do is hold the posts so they won't splay apart. That could be just a piece of plywood on the bottom -- which would slide when you needed it to, or those posts properly attached to the top maybe diagonally gusseted on the top. They aren't.
Each top and bottom frame, properly fastened, could support 10,000 lbs (4500kg). Overkill. Unless this is a plinth for your 2000kg Telsa. Any floor this will sit on will support double that. So you don't need the bottom frame at all. (I have one 2x3 running across the middle, then some plywood lips/stiffeners on the front and back. 12 years, as solid as the day I built it.)
The screw heads are buried which on these 2x3s is not a problem, but if you bury a screw/nail head 1/4" into 1/2" plywood your head is only screwing a 1/4" piece of plywood - you waste half your holding power. For maximum fastening strength you want your head flush with the top, If strong is more important than pretty? Leave the heads slightly 'proud' on the surface. But on the bottom you want to slide without scratching... sure bury the heads a bit. My bottoms are stretchers holding the sides together and for sliding. I could've used 1/4" ply.
Those nickle plated mending angles is amateur stuff. If you're using them either it's your mother in law's garage and you don't care or you're missing how to really attach something. Don't use them. Instead learn some house framing techniques. Incredibly powerful useful techniques. That's why I know how much weight your frame could support. (There are some great TH-cam videos on framing.) And the expensive cabinet grade plywood? You're never going to see it. Painting? Painting is nice, but spraying? Everything except those posts will never be seen. Sorry to be such a smug bast... hope this helps someone.
Paul...that was awesome! It looks amazing
Great build! Not to difficult but looks really elegant. Thanks for sharing
Great design, detail, and craftsmanship.
This is one of the very first videos of yours that I ever watched. I wasn't big on commenting back then so I wanted to say great job on another one bud!!!
Looks great. How did you carry the washer and dryer onto the platform? Any trick to it?
Can I purchase one of these from you?
Great work! I love Ana White's stuff
It’s almost 2 years on. Do you have any bowing in the top shelf supporting those appliances?
Thanks Paul. Look forward to using ur channel in the future.
Looks great. Very stylish. So the $64,000 is how did you get the pedestal under the two machines?
Now that some time has passed I am wondering how it is performing with keeping level and the tork of spin cycles loosening stuff?
Just what i need. Thank you so much for sharing.
Very nice build and video.
Really liked the cutout for the ventilation on the bottom shelf. Curious, how did it work getting the ducting around the top shelf to the dryer?
Great Work ! The trim really set it off nicely.
I Love this. Looks like a spring project for me !!
Very nice video and very good pedestal. I did my self using your instructions. The only item that i am a bid confused is that the legs were made based on your measurements a total of 19.75" and my pedestal does look much taller than yours. Did you also used the 19.75 for the legs the total high of mine is 28"?
Nice project have got any issues with vibration? If so how can you resolve that ?
Nice wood skills brother!
How did you lift the washer up on the stand?? i have a similar narrow room and have no way to get on both sides of the machine to do the lift onto the stand
Great tutorial and project
Have you noticed any movement of the machines? I'm looking into building my own and have concern that the vibration could lead to them sliding different directions.
I am thinking the same. I am almost sure you need to attach it to the wall.
Love your videos mate, makes DIY less daunting 👊🏻🇦🇺
did you use something to secure the washer legs to the platform?
Hi Paul,
I'm in the process of building this pedestal. I have the platforms and columns painted. The dry fit was perfect. When you attached the columns to the top shelf, did you drive the screw thru the plywood into the wood block only, or thru the block and into the support colum. If so, what type and length screw did you use?
Looks good. Question what size was the squares you use?
How long did you let the paint dry before placing the appliances on top? We used oil based door and furniture paint. Not sure how long to let it sit for.
Beautiful, amazing, good job 😱👍👍👍
I just stumbled on your video. Great job. I am sure you have this somewhere but what are the cabinets in your garage?
Exactly what I was looking for
looking for ideas to do something like this, Love it, thanks for sharing your idea.
Thanks Bob!
Awesome project
Nice job! Looks awesome!
Great Vid and very helpful! Just wondering if I can use Drywall instead Plywood. I have some left over drywalls..
Drywall is brittle and will not withstand heavy loads. Will not work! 🙂
Paul, how do you like your LG washer and dryer? We need new ones. Thanks for the pedestal info!!!
I absolutely hate my LG washer and dryer! Hope you didn’t know already buy them…
How long did it take you to build from start to finish?
very nice. Clean beautiful look!
My machine is still moving when on. Do u take feet off to stop movement
Where do i find the material list for the pedestal
Can this be installed over a drain pan?
How did you lift the washer and dryer?
What type of plywood did you use?
Great job. How’d u make that jig🤔
Doesn't the washer or dryer slide on this pedestal in the spin cycles? or do they stay put with no movement whatsoever? The regular pedestals have somethings to keep the washer or dryer fastened to the top surface with brackets or heavy duty bolts.
I don’t think they would move or slide any more than if they were just sitting on the ground like they normally do.
How are you ever going to have anyone work on the appliances with both appliances on one pedestal. Can’t move it to get behind.
I will give this a go, thanks
What are the dimensions LxWxH? AND What is the interior height of the opening?
I really need one of these!
Very nice project.
Hey do you notice any sag?
Do you recall the dimensions of plywood cutouts for 4x4 blocks you added the qtr round too?
I hope I wrote about it on this blog www.paultrandiy.com/washer-dryer-laundry-pedestal-diy/
Looks great.
I would like to know how you lifted the machines up to get the pedestal under. I think my newer front load washer has a cement slab in it; extremely heavy.
This was a new house and no washer dryer was in place yet. The delivery company guys put it in place for us.
@@PaulTranDIY How has this held up since it was constructed? would you make any edits to the build after using it for a period of time?
So far its been about 14 months and its held up well so far, no vibration or any issues. Just make sure its level before putting the washer and dryer on top of course! You can also get anti-vibration pads or furniture pads (we just used furniture pads)
keep up the good work!
how's the vibration throughiut the house/floor? my only concern is that over time the machines will shake the crap out of the pedestals and the vibration will get worse over time
It has been 13 months in use so far, still vibration free. It was also a concern of mine but still been okay. There are also vibration pads on amazon if that is a concern for you.
Excellent video. Just subscribed and am going to check out your blog.
Question: I have the exact same washer dryer...any chance you have complete measurements sketched up? No need to reinvent perfect 😉
I wish I had them for you. If its not on my blog post not sure anymore. This is now at my cousins house and not readily available for me to measure it.
@@PaulTranDIY No worries thanks for the reply and again thanks for the video
@@PaulTranDIY BTW your blog does have a pretty good cut list.
Can I use MDF?
What was the project cost?
Great video, Too many You Tube videos over explain things, where a 2 minute takes them 20 minutes. No fluff " just the facts"
Looks good!
Nice job!
Hey that's a really nice job. I wish I watched your video first before I built mine :/
What's the height from floor to the top of the pedestal? I'm looking to build a more basic one but not sure of how tall
19.5"
Paul Tran DIY what’s the total cost for the wood
Cheaper than buying the lg ones but im going to do drawers too
Thats a good idea!
From start to finish, how long did this take you?
Hi Eric, Its hard to say because I work on it couple hours here and there and since I'm always thinking about oh should I stop to film this part, slows things down. Also since I didn't have exact plans for the entire project I have to think things through and it takes me longer. I would say ~16-20 hours if I had to guess.
Paul Tran DIY thank you. I hope to one day be able to do this.
Great job !!!
Whats the easiest way to to get the washer and dryer on the 15 inch pedestal
So I just finished doing this exact project today. I had the same question. I ended up using a thick piece of plywood as a ramp and had my dad help me roll it up on a dolly. Just make sure you secure both the pedestal and the ramp if you do it that way.
Dennis Mah lean the machine forward, with the back up against the pedestal and slide it back.
Thanx, greatly appreciated, however over too soon. Liking your perspective.
not to be a troll, but i see that the guard of the miter saw doesn't cover the blade completely. take it from someone that has had small injuries with spinning blades, you might want to repair that. besides that, i just finished our washer stand last night and mine didn't look as good as yours. thumbs up! (ours is a temporary solution as we will be moving later this year.
Thanks man! I will get that fixed, didn't even noticed myself so appreciate you pointed that out.
Thanks for sharing...great safety tip
Love it!
Very nice
Good job!!!
How it should be done.
Paul you forgot your safety helmet.
at 2:19 .. did you actually just say that you "used a drill for driving nails into wood" ??!?!
Haha yeah whoops, I mean drill to drive screws into wood. Thanks!
Niceness
such crazy music!!!
Liked it
Great video!! Thank u!!😊
it is nice but to heavy
Awesome video dude but shit this is overkill I'll slap those screws straight in there lol
It's not logical to use for stand for washing machine and everyday getting wet by water the wooden stand.. the Best idea to use Steel or SSTL stand and not be affect by water.
Cool 6 week version of how to lift a dryer 10 inches. :p
Nice video but not everyone has all those expensive saw tools.