ABS prints very nicely on the Glacier plate with some glue to protect the surface, no issues on my end after a good few prints. Only time I had an issue was when I forgot to let the printer heat up.
I've just started a return on my Glacier bed, I can't get ABS or ASA to stick successfully without using a liquid adhesive such as Nano Polymer, so no real point over textured PEI when printing ABS or ASA for me. My bed is a later version that in the video with additional white screen printed text.
I am loving the CryoGrip Glacier, but then I got the BBL SuperTack and have been liking it more but for different things and reasons. A lot of people conflate the two saying they're the same and/or that the BBL is a 'knock off' (lol no one ever says a textured PEI sheet is a knockoff even though every company makes one) but the super tack is almost a rubber like nearly sticky surface that grips even after cooling down and requires nearly no brims, while the Glacier (closest analogous finish with a semi-texture) behaves much more like a textured PEI sheet that runs at lower temps. a main differentiator is that you can use alcohol on the Glacier (but not on FrostBite which also only can be used with Water) but the FrostBite is a heavier texture than the SuperTack. I'm only saying all this because I keep seeing people say it's the same, it's NOT - I'd love to see Dr. Igor compare them!
I have both Cryogrip plates and the super-tack plate. I found the latter to have too much adhesion in some cases. Bambu Lab says not to use their silk PLA on it and I’ve found that other silks (like Polymaker) also adhere too well. Bambu Lab sparkle PLA is also problematic to remove. In fact, after 2 years of printing on Bambu Lab printers I finally had need to print the razor blade scraper that comes on the SD card: I was unable to remove a print using my assortment of plastic and metal putty knives. And the first time using the razor scraper I oriented it wrong, destroyed the bed surface and sliced my thumb open. Now that I know how to use the blade I’ve found it works a treat. The Cryogrip plates leave a *very* glossy sheen despite being textured. When printing something face down, like a sign, I use the Bambu Lab textured plate to avoid the glare that would be present on a Cryogrip-printed object. If the first layer surface won’t be visible I almost always use the Cryogrip plates; the only exceptions are smooth PEI for mating surfaces and engineering plate for TPU. I haven’t printed anything in ASA or PC since I got the Cryogrip plates a couple of months ago.
Also, there’s no reason to use IPA to clean any plate, dish soap is a better emulsifier than alcohol plus oils and dirt are removed when rinsing with water after cleaning with dish soap.
But how does it compare to standard PEI? The websites generic tagline of it being superior doesnt actually tell me anything about real use case bed adhesion
After personally using both the Frostbite and Glacier beds, they are absolutely better than standard PEI. I have rub my hands all over the Frostbite running at ambient temperatures and PLA sticks to it amazingly. If you print PLA, they are superior over standard PEI. The Glacier bed is also very nice, feels a bit closer to a satin PEI, but I've never had issues with bed adhesion after printing PETG and ABS.
@@tohrugon No they are not. The Glacier is the same as textured PEI. I have something like 300 hours printing on it; for the first dozen or so prints Glacier is marginally better but as it wears it is no better no worse. I have measured the degree of warping with 6 different ASA filaments on both plates to prove it.
Would have been nice to see the comparison with a standard stock PEI sheet, have a Glacier on the way right now after experiencing some cornerlifts when printing PETG on the P1P
been using the Glacier for a few hundred hours now, and i love it. no noticeable wear to this point. also like the reduced texture, as it's easier to spread a smooth even glue layer for things like PC
The Glacier is the same as textured PEI. I have something like 300 hours printing on it; for the first dozen or so prints Glacier is marginally better but as it wears it is no better no worse. I have measured the degree of warping with 6 different ASA filaments on both plates to prove it. You should treat it as a textured PEI plate with a finer-grained surface.
Thanks for the test. I am also interested in other more "difficult" to handle materials, like ASA for example, and as well in the Bambulab SuperTack Plate :) Many Regards
Things are starting to get interesting again regarding print surfaces because of the new materials PPS CF, PPA CF core etc. Prusa has dedicated print surface for PA (Prusament PA11 CF) and now recently for PP CF. I am also wondering if the trick from JanTec that prints one layer of PLA (with a peel tab) and then prints ASA on top will work with frostbite at 40C and if the honeycomb pattern would still be visible on the ASA after the PLA layer is peeled off.
It might also be interesting to test various types of shiny, textured (e.g., Kevlar-like, crystalline), or gradient-colored print beds. The cleaning of print beds could also be an interesting topic. For example, lately, I’ve been printing more with ASA and ABS+, which leaves a gray residue on the print bed. Sometimes, this can be difficult to remove. I tried an industrial cleaning spray (Soudal Cleaner & Degreaser), which seems to work very well. Additionally, simple denatured alcohol is sufficient in many cases-it’s less aggressive than isopropyl alcohol.
cool testing method, I liked it (would love to see a test like that on a carbonfiber resin plate, if you have a non induktive/ a physical probe) I would love trying them out once there are 350x350 versions.
I have the glacier plate and like it overall, but the white lettering will transfer onto prints if it overlaps them. I really like the smoother texture compared to PEI. I'll be trying that plate with some PA-CF and ASA-CF today.
Please come back and tell me how it goes, I'm wondering if I should purchase these plates for ASA and especially PA, or if I should stick with the standard smooth/textured plates.
@radish6691 that's good to know. I haven't had that happen yet, but I'll watch for it when positioning regardless of what plate I use. It's annoying but only an esthetic blemish.
I've used it for Asa, abs, and tpu with great outcomes. I have been experiment with the Bambu "tpu for ams" and bambu abs in one print on this plate and it really pulls and warps the plate. Nothing catastrophic yet, but from 50c to 20c cooling down after 6 layers (clog caused failed print) it lifted all 4 corners of the plate off the heat bed.
I have been using a generic Aorita 3D "cool plate" for the A1 mini because BIQI didn't (or don't?) make one. It also has the same warnings against isopropyl alcohol so I believe it's the same coating. I absolutely love it, the texture is somewhere between smooth and textured. HOWEVER I tried printing ABS on it (yes, ABS on an A1 mini, it was an experiment) and the adhesion was too good, even at only 80c bed temp. It ripped the coating right off. Never seen that before. I might test some more with the undamaged portions of the plate, because the really good bed adhesion could prevent warping. Maybe 70c? 60c?
The wear on the plates is totally normal. Mine from aliexpress is always 1 year old and shows that wear marks too. After the coating is rubbed of by the nozzle it doens‘t get any worse. The spring sheet metal is not affected at all.
The wear from the nozzle cleaning code is not reflected in the overall durability. I've printed a fair amount of PETG and PLA on the Frostbite plate, and other than some discoloration, the surface is as good as new.
The Frostbite plate is *not* like a Bambu Lab textured plate. Both BIQI plates leave a very glossy sheen despite being textured making them unsuitable for face-down prints. I use them almost exclusively for all other prints and favor them over the super-tack plate for most applications.
Although it is possible to print PLA at very low temperatures with Frostbite, internal stresses will be higher with lower bed temperatures. Therefore, even if the print sticks to the surface while printing, there will be warping after removing the part. Therefore, I am against printing with lower than 50 C bed temperature.
Hey - your recommended temp table at the end for glacier pla is too high. Should be 45-55 not 65. I have actually seen better results personally at 40c than higher temps. Sometimes the adhesion is too strong…
PEI was as close as we've come to a print surface for all materials. That's been the goal of 3D printer bed material but I doubt it's truly possible with the wide variety of FDM materials. What I don't understand are the claims that a bed surface is suitable for all materials with the caveat that glue stick must be used for either adhesion or as a release agent for some filaments. I don't mind having three different magnetic build sheets that cover all filament types, but I don't ever want to use glue. The proper bed surface and temperature should be all that's needed to get a good print.
@@dtibor5903 - I'm well aware of the advantages of glue. Prior to PEI, borosilicate glass was my favorite print surface, although I usually dialed in my temperatures so it didn't need glue. My point is that glue is a messy time consuming extra step that I prefer to skip, and I'd prefer to use a different magnetic print surface for each material than go back to using glue. 3D printing has advanced so much since the RepRap days, and enormously even in the last two years, but I consider it to be a failure of the industry that modern FDM printers ship with a glue stick. I print a *lot* of TPU, but also PETG, PLA, and ABS, and it's been several years since I used glue. I'm starting to print PET-CF, ASA and ASA-CF, and I'm still not planning to use any glue. I make functional prints and run a small print farm. Glue would double my labor when FDM printing.
Hint; I print enclosed with texture pei&pla on 55 bed temp all the time. The print results are even better than keep it open. This is both on x1c and p1s. No problems with heat creep. Found out by accident, forgot to open printer when i hit print. I do it this way for about a year now.
They say glacier excells with engeneering material like PA, I would like to see some ABS, Nylon, PC, etc.
Yes I can't believe how we keep seeing reviews completely avoiding that part😢
ABS prints very nicely on the Glacier plate with some glue to protect the surface, no issues on my end after a good few prints. Only time I had an issue was when I forgot to let the printer heat up.
@@tohrugon if you print with glue, you can just use plain glass, or a plain metal sheet, a wood or anything the glue sticks to.
yeah I am really interested in how it performs with PA :)
I've just started a return on my Glacier bed, I can't get ABS or ASA to stick successfully without using a liquid adhesive such as Nano Polymer, so no real point over textured PEI when printing ABS or ASA for me. My bed is a later version that in the video with additional white screen printed text.
Thanks for the video! Your testing and reviews have definitely made an impact on the community and we appreciate the data 👍🏼
I am loving the CryoGrip Glacier, but then I got the BBL SuperTack and have been liking it more but for different things and reasons. A lot of people conflate the two saying they're the same and/or that the BBL is a 'knock off' (lol no one ever says a textured PEI sheet is a knockoff even though every company makes one) but the super tack is almost a rubber like nearly sticky surface that grips even after cooling down and requires nearly no brims, while the Glacier (closest analogous finish with a semi-texture) behaves much more like a textured PEI sheet that runs at lower temps. a main differentiator is that you can use alcohol on the Glacier (but not on FrostBite which also only can be used with Water) but the FrostBite is a heavier texture than the SuperTack. I'm only saying all this because I keep seeing people say it's the same, it's NOT - I'd love to see Dr. Igor compare them!
I have both Cryogrip plates and the super-tack plate. I found the latter to have too much adhesion in some cases. Bambu Lab says not to use their silk PLA on it and I’ve found that other silks (like Polymaker) also adhere too well. Bambu Lab sparkle PLA is also problematic to remove. In fact, after 2 years of printing on Bambu Lab printers I finally had need to print the razor blade scraper that comes on the SD card: I was unable to remove a print using my assortment of plastic and metal putty knives. And the first time using the razor scraper I oriented it wrong, destroyed the bed surface and sliced my thumb open. Now that I know how to use the blade I’ve found it works a treat.
The Cryogrip plates leave a *very* glossy sheen despite being textured. When printing something face down, like a sign, I use the Bambu Lab textured plate to avoid the glare that would be present on a Cryogrip-printed object. If the first layer surface won’t be visible I almost always use the Cryogrip plates; the only exceptions are smooth PEI for mating surfaces and engineering plate for TPU. I haven’t printed anything in ASA or PC since I got the Cryogrip plates a couple of months ago.
Also, there’s no reason to use IPA to clean any plate, dish soap is a better emulsifier than alcohol plus oils and dirt are removed when rinsing with water after cleaning with dish soap.
another pro for the SuperTack: you can smear your greasy fingers on it and *not* lose adhesion
thank you for the video! I've been looking everywhere for a hexagonal pattern on a print surface. Glad it also performs well :)
But how does it compare to standard PEI? The websites generic tagline of it being superior doesnt actually tell me anything about real use case bed adhesion
After personally using both the Frostbite and Glacier beds, they are absolutely better than standard PEI. I have rub my hands all over the Frostbite running at ambient temperatures and PLA sticks to it amazingly. If you print PLA, they are superior over standard PEI. The Glacier bed is also very nice, feels a bit closer to a satin PEI, but I've never had issues with bed adhesion after printing PETG and ABS.
@@tohrugon No they are not. The Glacier is the same as textured PEI. I have something like 300 hours printing on it; for the first dozen or so prints Glacier is marginally better but as it wears it is no better no worse. I have measured the degree of warping with 6 different ASA filaments on both plates to prove it.
Would have been nice to see the comparison with a standard stock PEI sheet, have a Glacier on the way right now after experiencing some cornerlifts when printing PETG on the P1P
been using the Glacier for a few hundred hours now, and i love it. no noticeable wear to this point.
also like the reduced texture, as it's easier to spread a smooth even glue layer for things like PC
How are they compared to textured and smooth PEI sheet?
Finally, some real testing for these plates.
What about ASA adhesion and warping, how would it behave?
We Will never know
@@Maschine_Fuhrer Igor will likely test them if enough people are interested, and they seem to be.
The Glacier is the same as textured PEI. I have something like 300 hours printing on it; for the first dozen or so prints Glacier is marginally better but as it wears it is no better no worse. I have measured the degree of warping with 6 different ASA filaments on both plates to prove it. You should treat it as a textured PEI plate with a finer-grained surface.
@@EliteMacFreak Thx appreciate it, have had ordered it if you haven't answered me. Saved me money.
@@Maschine_Fuhrer 😂😂😂
Thanks for the test. I am also interested in other more "difficult" to handle materials, like ASA for example, and as well in the Bambulab SuperTack Plate :) Many Regards
Thank you for the tests. The options for texture on these new plates are much more attractive compared to the normal PEI sheet.
Oooh I like the honeycomb pattern.
I printed Polymax PC on a A1 Mini at 80 degrees bed with Glacier. The part wasn‘t big, but I was really impressed it worked at all.
Things are starting to get interesting again regarding print surfaces because of the new materials PPS CF, PPA CF core etc. Prusa has dedicated print surface for PA (Prusament PA11 CF) and now recently for PP CF. I am also wondering if the trick from JanTec that prints one layer of PLA (with a peel tab) and then prints ASA on top will work with frostbite at 40C and if the honeycomb pattern would still be visible on the ASA after the PLA layer is peeled off.
It might also be interesting to test various types of shiny, textured (e.g., Kevlar-like, crystalline), or gradient-colored print beds. The cleaning of print beds could also be an interesting topic. For example, lately, I’ve been printing more with ASA and ABS+, which leaves a gray residue on the print bed. Sometimes, this can be difficult to remove.
I tried an industrial cleaning spray (Soudal Cleaner & Degreaser), which seems to work very well. Additionally, simple denatured alcohol is sufficient in many cases-it’s less aggressive than isopropyl alcohol.
cool testing method, I liked it (would love to see a test like that on a carbonfiber resin plate, if you have a non induktive/ a physical probe)
I would love trying them out once there are 350x350 versions.
I have the glacier plate and like it overall, but the white lettering will transfer onto prints if it overlaps them. I really like the smoother texture compared to PEI. I'll be trying that plate with some PA-CF and ASA-CF today.
Please come back and tell me how it goes, I'm wondering if I should purchase these plates for ASA and especially PA, or if I should stick with the standard smooth/textured plates.
I’ve had the lettering on a Bambu Lab plate transfer onto an ASA print so that problem isn’t exclusive to the BIQI plates.
@radish6691 that's good to know. I haven't had that happen yet, but I'll watch for it when positioning regardless of what plate I use. It's annoying but only an esthetic blemish.
I've used it for Asa, abs, and tpu with great outcomes. I have been experiment with the Bambu "tpu for ams" and bambu abs in one print on this plate and it really pulls and warps the plate. Nothing catastrophic yet, but from 50c to 20c cooling down after 6 layers (clog caused failed print) it lifted all 4 corners of the plate off the heat bed.
I have been using a generic Aorita 3D "cool plate" for the A1 mini because BIQI didn't (or don't?) make one. It also has the same warnings against isopropyl alcohol so I believe it's the same coating.
I absolutely love it, the texture is somewhere between smooth and textured. HOWEVER I tried printing ABS on it (yes, ABS on an A1 mini, it was an experiment) and the adhesion was too good, even at only 80c bed temp. It ripped the coating right off. Never seen that before. I might test some more with the undamaged portions of the plate, because the really good bed adhesion could prevent warping. Maybe 70c? 60c?
I liked the new music! Please try abs/asa, nylon and pc ❤️
Love the glacier plate 🤩
You can get an ESP plate from Juupine to print PLA with totally unheated bed. It works, got one for myself.
The wear on the plates is totally normal. Mine from aliexpress is always 1 year old and shows that wear marks too. After the coating is rubbed of by the nozzle it doens‘t get any worse. The spring sheet metal is not affected at all.
The wear from the nozzle cleaning code is not reflected in the overall durability. I've printed a fair amount of PETG and PLA on the Frostbite plate, and other than some discoloration, the surface is as good as new.
The Frostbite plate is *not* like a Bambu Lab textured plate. Both BIQI plates leave a very glossy sheen despite being textured making them unsuitable for face-down prints. I use them almost exclusively for all other prints and favor them over the super-tack plate for most applications.
which one has better adhesion for pla and petg between Frostbite and Supertack from Bambu ? They're both exclusive to these two materials.
Hi. On my A1 i have same degradation on the rear of build oem build plate
Although it is possible to print PLA at very low temperatures with Frostbite, internal stresses will be higher with lower bed temperatures. Therefore, even if the print sticks to the surface while printing, there will be warping after removing the part. Therefore, I am against printing with lower than 50 C bed temperature.
No abs?
No supertrack plate?
Hey - your recommended temp table at the end for glacier pla is too high. Should be 45-55 not 65. I have actually seen better results personally at 40c than higher temps. Sometimes the adhesion is too strong…
PEI was as close as we've come to a print surface for all materials. That's been the goal of 3D printer bed material but I doubt it's truly possible with the wide variety of FDM materials. What I don't understand are the claims that a bed surface is suitable for all materials with the caveat that glue stick must be used for either adhesion or as a release agent for some filaments. I don't mind having three different magnetic build sheets that cover all filament types, but I don't ever want to use glue. The proper bed surface and temperature should be all that's needed to get a good print.
@@Liberty4Ever well, with glue you can use anything as a bed surface... Plain glass works fine for example
@@dtibor5903 - I'm well aware of the advantages of glue. Prior to PEI, borosilicate glass was my favorite print surface, although I usually dialed in my temperatures so it didn't need glue. My point is that glue is a messy time consuming extra step that I prefer to skip, and I'd prefer to use a different magnetic print surface for each material than go back to using glue. 3D printing has advanced so much since the RepRap days, and enormously even in the last two years, but I consider it to be a failure of the industry that modern FDM printers ship with a glue stick. I print a *lot* of TPU, but also PETG, PLA, and ABS, and it's been several years since I used glue. I'm starting to print PET-CF, ASA and ASA-CF, and I'm still not planning to use any glue. I make functional prints and run a small print farm. Glue would double my labor when FDM printing.
@@Liberty4Ever yeah, i agree, PEI sheets are very good and i hate glue too for the same reasons.
Well that confirms that they are a good plate.
Damn, just after I bought my biqu plate, hope this video proves it's worth :')
Hint; I print enclosed with texture pei&pla on 55 bed temp all the time. The print results are even better than keep it open. This is both on x1c and p1s. No problems with heat creep. Found out by accident, forgot to open printer when i hit print. I do it this way for about a year now.
0:36 Bellow = ordítani 😅
Oh, at least, I have the reason for the first comment :-)
Buildtak Plates with another Name....