How to wire your 3D printer!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ค. 2024
- Don't want to end up with melted cables in your 3D printer? Want it to be reliable, too? Then wire it up properly! Learn how in this video.
This video is sponsored by Alephobjects, Inc! Learn more about their Lulzbot line of open-source 3D printers here lulzbot.com/
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I was at Home Depot looking at those zip-tie mount squares. I almost bought a big bag before realizing I could print them myself. I already had double-stick tape.
The filament cost isn't worth it.
The AWG Standard (American Wire Gauge) originally came from the number of "drawing" passes (pulling wire through a die to make it's diameter smaller), for instance 12 gauge wire required 12 passes through different wire dies, whereas 28 gauge required 28 pulls through various dies. The greater the number the smaller the diameter of the wire.
so 0000 gauge wire required passing through -3 dies?
+1 for RC silicone wire. Very finely stranded, made for lots of motion, and won't melt and short when exposed to heat up to 200C.
There is another reason to go with stranded wire, it can carry more current and with DC it can carry it with less loss than the same diameter/gauge solid wire. That's because electrons flow mainly along the surface of a wire and a bunch of smaller strands put together to make one wire has more total surface area and thus less resistance to (direct) current flowing. That's why cables made for welding use smaller strands and just a lot more to get to the wire gauge they need. I use welding cable to do the main 12V DC runs from the batteries in my boat and to the trolling motor. When you are running off of batteries all the small losses in the wiring really can start to add up.
Old usb cords are another excellent source of wires for projects. Just off the connectors plus an 3-5 cm (1-2") of cable from the ends and the rest is almost always in good shape. I'm a bit of a freak, wiring up and configuring the controller is my favorite part of building these printers Then again I can't even imagine myself buying a pre-built 3D printer and the last pre-built desktop computer I bought said "Dell 486DX-100" on it.......
What you're referring is skin effect and it only exist in AC current where there are flux changes periodically. We use stranded mainly for the flexibility.
@@Asu01 And a normal stranded cable doesn't help against the skin effect either, unless the strands are insulated individually from each other.
Invaluable tips and advice as always Tom. Thank you.
Thanks for the drawing, it really helps with recognizing my own printer wiring.
Extremely informative. Excellent job as always Thomas.
Great video. Loved the idea of using Cat5 cable for low power items.
Nice job on the video, well shot and nice organization of the information. I have the Lulzbot Mini and I am very happy with it and hope you are enjoying yours.
I've been struggling to put the final touches on my custom i3 I've built and this helped me take that plunge of rewiring my printer. Ran into a snag when ordering parts when a crappy ebay seller sent me a 30awg cat5 when I ordered a 24 awg cat5e but I'm super excited to get to work on this once all the parts I ordered get here!
Very good clear informative tutorial .....Thank you Thomas :)
I never thought of ethernet cable for the fans/motors before.. thanks for the idea!
Hi Tom, I know this is an old video but just a heads sup. Solid cored wires are known as 'Cables' while stranded ones are called 'Flex' (sing
ular and plural).
Another great video! Lots of information thank Tom!
informative and useful video. thank you.
Some great advice and instruction in there.
Great vid Tom! Thanks!
Some great information here. I have been 3d printing for around 2 years now, and have learned a lot. Enough to where I feel comfortable buying parts and building a 3D printer of my own, however I have yet to see a video for building a 3D printer thats geared for complete beginners. As a mechanical engineer constructing the working parts would be no issue for me but it took me a long time and a lot of learning to understand how to build a machine with working electrical. From a beginners point of view, theres a ramps board, with a bunch of shit plugged into it and firmware running on the machine. A beginner doesn't know how to pick a board, hook everything together, know where to plug things into the ramps, or select and edit a firmware for their machine. I think I am going to do a series of videos that covers in detail how to make A 3d printer. Not like in general here are some 3d printer build tips, but step by step, heres how to make THE 3d printer shown in this video from start to finish, covering the mechanical process of building the frame and assembling the parts, to literally where on the board to plug each part in, and how to put firmware on it.
Wow, this was a long time ago. Just happened to run across this comment and wanted to say this is a fantastic idea for a series that I and many others would be very interested in. I am subscribing for updates just in case.
I really like the drawing time lapse! Nice :)
thanks. great video, as always
Excellent video. Double thumbs up.
I love this guy, 3d printing and an Audiofile!, I think the car enthusiast is the other guy tho.
a good alternative, though requiring soldering for tier 2 and 3 are hobby battery connectors either dean (T) or Xt-60, or even tamiya car connectors (these are crimped, too). cheap to get and a single connector will connect a pair of wires
Nice, summed up what took me weeks to research in less than quarter of an hour ^_^
Hi Thomas, Love your videos - Keep it up!
I am looking for information on the Bowden setup you use on your other printer (mendel90?)
I don't like the idea of CAT5 wire for stepper motors, the wire is a bit too thin. However, CAT5 has 4 pairs, and steppers have four wires. So, use TWO pairs of wires for each pair of stepper coils, connect the solid colored wires together, and the stripped colored wires together. Now you have two paralleled pairs, for the two pairs of wires to the motor. No worries, voltage drop not a problem.
I bundle my wires in spiral wrap.
Kenneth Scharf that’s exactly what he said and diagrammed.
Brad .M just use a wire gauge chart and choose something that meets your amperage. I went with silicone insulated which is higher capacity so you need to first choose the type.
Says guy. The wire is rated to carry a 2A current but you dispute because of some sort of bigger is better mentality. How do you think the wire gets rated? With a dart board? How much current are your steppers drawing?
Im Building a Prusa i3 right now and only thing left on it is wiring, perfect timing ;)
Thanks for the handy tips on what is/isn't good for choices... I'm thinking of making my Wanhao i3 clone have a detachable controller unit, as its a Royal PITA trying to move things when you only have short cables hard wired to the chassis.
I love the idea of Ethernet cable for wiring all the electronics and the mechatronic parts. Is each of the 8 strands capable of carrying upto 2A? Would it be ok to use one strand pair (2 wires) for each motor wire. For. e.g. Assuming that a single coil comprises of Red and Blue wires, would it be ok to use The Red strand pair for the Red end of the coil and the Blue strand pair for the Blue end of the coil?
Always use Crimp Connectors. not Soldered. for flexible wires.
solder wicking into the strands makes the ends inflexible and prone to breaking
big fan of flat cables, personally. mostly for the super neat and clean look, but they can also eleminate the need for any chain or sleeve bundling. audio/video/speaker cables are pretty cheap too .. and did i mention just how nice they look?
Grate video. More videos like this plz.
XT60 connectors work great for higher current items such as cartridge heaters and bed heaters.
XT60's are what I use in my RC stuff. One of my craft I calculated would pull something like 60 amps at 12V under full throttle. Should be good enough for 3D printers.
Good info Tom. Couple of things, leaving this here for information more than anything else as I know it's not a comprehensive guide.
Cable bundles, Spiral wrap; the decent thick stuff works well and is dead cheap, I use the 3-7mm stuff and it supports the wires well and also gives the option to break out a wire from the bundle. There's also an issue with using something like 12 AWG for a bed heater on a board like a Chinese RAMPS or MKS Board. Unless you solder directly to the board or change the headers, the majority of boards I've used can only take up to 16 AWG for the bed, I've tried stuffing 14 AWG in them and it isn't happening. You can use a reducer set of wires with connectors, but it's sub-optimal. I tend to just wire a PCB heater with 16 AWG Silicone wire as it's rated up to around 22 Amps for DC current. When you consider that a standard PCB heater is around 1.1 Ohms at 12v it's only pulling about 10 Amps. If running a 24 volt system I'd be looking at 14 as you're pulling 22 Amps, having a 10A head room is enough.
Hi Thomas, it would be awesome if you could make a video setting up Marlin firmware for a delta setup and also how to calibrate a delta in Marlin.
I am a big fan of Anderson Powerpoles for the higher current applications and use them on my hot end and bed. They come in 15, 30 and 45 Amp pin types (all use the same housing) and are good to 600V, the housings come in a large variety of colors, and slide together so you can form keyed and color coded connector assembly blocks and they also make blank housing blocks, and there are PCB mount pins as well and can be had pretty cheap. They are heavily used by aerospace engineers on early functional prototypes for that reason, even when 15-45A capacity isn't needed.
I don't suggest using stranded cat5 or (or even Cat 6 for the higher gauge,) on steppers. You should always be building in an engineering safety factor on your current handling capacity rather than venturing into the safety factor margin. Use 16-18 ga wire for NEMA 17's and you will have plenty of headroom, while it may not seem a big deal with the tiny NEMA 17's, where it totally is when you are driving double depth high-torque NEMA 42's, it really is, because the voltages aren't entirely trivial as a fire hazard or possibly frying half the machine should a wire wear or melt through to something else.
While I love Duponts for hacking and bread board use, I mostly use JST EH for PCB header connections and JST JWPF for mid-path connectors because I keep a good variety of them in stock, as they are waterproof and therefore usable on machining equipment with flood cooling systems as well as keeping chips and metal dust out. Building a assortment of JST or Molex, or pick-your-favorite connectors through mouser, digikey or aliexpress isn't that hard or expensive.
Lastly using terminal blocks and 30mm Din rail for mounting (din rail mount) PSU's, Raspberry pies, and other bits is something I have yet to do with my 3d printer, because I have yet to put it in an enclosure, but is standard operating procedure for larger, industrial (subtractive) machining equipment, and can keep things, clean, servicable, upgradable, and protected from the elements when put in an appropriate enclosure.
Good info, thanks. Though I have to ask, do you have any experience/opinions with using RJ45 connector on that ethernet cable? Like for instance for the hotend/effector carriage, like the delta wasp? It seemed like a nice way to be able to hot-swap these.Also, congrats on the sponsorship!
I like this Video thx for explaining this electonic Things.
I've never learned this just the Mechanicle side so its interesting for me to wire my new Printer i've build my self (D-Bot).
I hope you got more Printers to review and more Tricks for us. ;)
Cya
Excellent video Tom! I really wish I had something like this when I started building my printer over a year ago. How do you feel about mounting drag chains sideways (for example with a CoreXY)?
I may borrow that paint scheme I really like the white
i am using ethernet cables on my cnc router steppers, 3A 280ozin motors running at 48V. no issues almost 3 years.
hi.. what kind of ethernet cable re u using ? thankx
Great video Tom, i recently purchased a Craftbot Plus, what an amazing printer.
Nice. I have one too, and i'm still happy with that purchase. Shure, it's still not "the perfect printer", even industrial 50K$+ printers are not perfect.I'm pretty amazed tho that they got out of a crowdfunded 3d printer story and are now actually making good printers for a reasonable price.
What i like is that there are no printed parts and just about everything is steel on it, its a little noisy but it is a machine not a decoration.
Indeed, it's more built for a workshop, and not really for office users, with the noises it makes. You can tone it down a bit by playing with the speed settings, and i'm shure there are countless other mods you can do to make it an even better machine, just as with all the other printers out there. I just wish they would open the firmware sources up to make even deeper mods to it. The electronics are really quite solid too when you see what other "famous brands" integrate even in the newest (and sometimes more expensive) printers.
What's the automatic wire stripper you use? Looks really good.
PLZ DO MORE!!!!!
Tom have u ever done diy printer? Like to see mpcnc done
Hey Tom,
danke für das Video! Ich hätte nur noch Flachbandkabel erwähnt, wie Nophead sie in seinen Druckern verwendet. Am Extruder hab ich ein 20-poliges Kabel das den X- und Extruder-Motor, den X-Endstop, das Hotend mit Themistor, den Lüfter und einen freien extra Pin (für LEDs oder einen Bettsensor) versorgt. Am Heizbett versorgt ein 26-Pin-Kabel das Heizbett und seinen Thermistor mit ausreichend Energie. Unterstützt wird das Kabel dann noch von einem Polypropylen-Streifen. Sieht sehr edel aus und sollte auch lange halten. Als Extra gibt am Extruder noch eine D-Sub Verbindung, damit man den kompleten Extruder nur mit zwei Schrauben lösen kann. Ich finde dieses System einfach nur genial, braucht nur ein bisschen mehr Planung.
Hättest du vielleicht Links zu den Kabeln die du verwendet hast? :)
Leider nein, war ja alles in dem Bausatz drin.
Once again an excellent guide. And finally one about wiring that doesn't make me pull my hair off. :D
hi Tom !.. about UTP cable... What kind of UTP cable do u recommend ? thanks !!
Thanks, what are the terminal types though?
is threre a parts list you have put together which i can build a 3d printer with??
Tom we need an update for newer 24v printers
What would you use as a connector if you were going to make the hotend disconnectable I was going to get some spare heater cartridges and thermistors and cut the wires and run them through whatever cable management to the mainboard and put jst sm connectors for all fans and thermistors etc just not sure on the heater cartridge connector
The Plastic tags on a Loaf of bread come in handy just write on which is which and put on each end of your leads,
I enjoy wiring! The problem for me is the ridiculous connectors that there are. The GT2560 uses something like 5 and I've not found a reliable source for the matching parts.
What is the optimal drag chain size for i3 size printer?
i like svga cables and svga brakeout boards 18 20 gauge wire fine strand
Don't think I'm able to get multi-strand cat5 cable here, but I got solid core type, would that be ok as well? I was thinking to use the rj45 plugs for low current component. Any advice?
Kannst du das neue 1730 Full Metal Hotend vorstellen ?
I'm pretty good at modifying things to get them to work or work better, except for my spelling i saw a 90$ 3d printer online which didn't have at that good of a review. it sounds like the software was a little buggy.for what i need for a learning 3d printer.. theres the creality 3d pirinter for 225$. it seem like the better choice. they have 2 of them at the makerspace here in charlotte.. ive tried them a couple times
1. which one do i build stuff with ???
In all cases, i'd use silicone wires. Those are so superior to pvc wires, that i've completely stopped to use the former.
Furthermore, the silicone insulation is much more resistant to heat as well, and another added benefit is that since they are much less stiff than PVC ones, they drastically reduce wire breaking near the connector (i had this hapening often on various electronics projects, and not ones with a lot of connections/disconnections of the cables, nor much movement on the cables, now with silicon wires it never occured yet to me).
Hi, why do you have your X axis ends upside down compared to your cheap 3d printer build prusa clone?
OMG That shirt!
I+m rewiring my printer and this video is really helpful. However, I have a lot of stuff on my gantry. Stepper (4 wires), 3d-touch sensor (5 wires), hotend (2 wires), hotend temp sensor (2 wires), hotend fan (2 wires), cooling fan (2 wires). I'm trying to cut down on number of wires (connector pins) there. I'm using RAMPS, and some of those can share +, and many should be able to share -. I have custom made cable with silicone wires inside. However, testing shows sensors don't like this. Temp sensor , but mostly 3d-touch sensor behave weirdly. I'm guessing EM interference because of their common ground. Any suggestions how to deal with this? Prefferably without changing all cables again :)
Just Perfect Thom!
Im rewiring my tevo tarantula, and I'm not sure if I could use cat 5 cable for the steppers. Does anyone know if that would work?
This was super helpful; unfortunately for me, you left out the suggestion of that one item I was looking for :) … What do you recommend for the gauge of wire from the PSU to the board?
I know this is old and I'm not Thom, but for future ppl reading this:
It depends on what goes through your board. Just add up what goes out of the board and you have an idea what should go in.
Also you could look at the maximum ampere provided by your PSU.
For a mid printers would say 2.5mm^2 (13 AWG) as it is good up to 32A on single wires and up to 26A when you have 2 wires in one
1.5 (15AWG) is good up to 24A on single wires and 18A on multiple wires in one and therefore for enough for a smaller printer.
If you have a 40A PSU, you might need more around 5mm^2 (10AWG).
Was the ethernet cable really stranded like said in the video? The cut end of the example sure looked like solid wire. But yeah, it really should be stranded if you want it to take any kind of repetitive motion.
Does anyone know where I can get a parallel stepper motor cable for my z-axis? I need them to be 4 to 6 pin because my motors have 6 pins. I only have one port on my board and I have 2 z motors.
Hi, Thomas! With my Prusa i3 (self-made) I have the Z axis motors hooked up in Series. I did the joints by soldering but now it's impossible for me to change the motors (if I want). Everything is working great 2 years allready but can you suggest another method of connecting the Z axis motors?
You could just de-solder it..?
Tom, do you typically connectorize the wires on both ends (i.e. connector on the component and on the board side)?
I do with proper custom builds now, making parts easily replaceable.
Thanks Tom!
Would you please update the "Build your own 3D printer" playlist :)
Thank You! I really like these guide and tutorial videoes you make. Its a great help while i *try* to build my own printer. I would like to see a video about the very first print. How you come about it from start to finish :)
whats the build volume
how do you solder 12 Guage wire onto a pub or alum heated bed. the wire is too thick
I still have a question. What wire do I use for 12v 30Amp power supply to Controller board. Because its not moving, I am hoping a regular stiff copper wire should work.
+Sourabh Roddey any wire will work, but I'd recommend at least 4mm² to minimize losses.
Understood, Also I am trying to build a printer where I would have a separate controller box hence looking for connectors for Heatbed and Hotend(Motors already have it on them). I can take printer frame on move with controller box separate.
I have come across, XT60 connectors for Heatbed(Can take upto 60Amps) with different JST connectors for Hotend, fan and sensors.
Do you have any thoughts on this or can suggest any other options for connectors. Seems to me, panel mount connectors are the most expensive and difficult to find.
You have to do a video on reducing sound!
As in, noise cancellation of a 3d printer. Techniques to follow to significantly reduce those disturbing harmonic sounds produced by the motors mainly :')
Jordi Foix increase the micro stepping and use something to insulated the feet that it sits on. I used a combination of sound deadening and sound insulation and it reduced the noise significantly. Only problem is once it's quite you get used to it and then it seems noisy again so it's never ending.
Hey, looks like you forgot to link to the stick on anchors :)
Can't get power to bed fan or nozzle on ramps board
Wire list:
2 hotend
2 hotend fan
2 layer fan
2 thermistor (x2)
2 leveling probe
Here's how you clean up the wiring near your hotend/carriage:
Step 1: integrate a PCB with/near your hotend.
Next, on that PCB, you place a microcontroller, a couple of FET's, and a bunch of connectors or pads. It might wind up looking similar to this:
www.hacksmods.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/RCTimer_DYS_SN20a_MOSFET_side.jpg
Offload your heater PID, layer fan control, hotend fan control, and thermistor(s) A/D software onto this microcontroller.
Connect all your components to the PCB. Add a bimetal thermal switch while you're at it.
Finally, add a wireless transceiver like an nRF51822 or Xbee or ESP8266 or whatever. Add the comparable transceiver to your main control board. Now your main board controls all that stuff wirelessly. Just pass the relevant gcode straight through.
Congratulations! Assuming a bowden drive, you have reduced the wiring congestion at your hotend/carriage from ~12 wires to just 2 wires: +V and GND! Way to go!
And as bonus, you have also essentially reduced the wiring congestion at your main control board by about the same amount of wires. The whole damn printer just got cleaned up! Win-win! And chances are your main controller is already running out of time and space trying to run multiple PID's, a user display + input device, all your steppers, reading from your SD card, and mesh bed leveling (because who the Hell wants to manually level a bed anymore?). So it's a win-win-win!
Problem: Industry is currently blocked at Step 1.
I used speaker wire and wow... I got magical smoke too...
As european with a metric mindset i never really understood the AWG system for the wire gauges. Is there a simple trick to understanding it that i'm missing, or is everyone else in the same boat, forced to look up how many mm^2 fit into an AWG26 wire?
Below is the handy reference I developed based on Global automotive wire spec standards (I work in auto electrical wiring / connectors). These are nominal wire core cross section size very near equivalents for wires you might use on a 3D printer:
26awg = 0.13mm2
24awg = 0.22mm2
22awg = 0.35mm2
20awg = 0.50mm2
18awg = 0.75mm2
16awg = between 1.0 & 1.5mm2;
14awg = 2.0mm2
= 2.5mm2 is widely available, but between 14 & 12awg
12awg = 3.0mm2
In defining AWG equivalents, what is confusing is that the metric "size" is only a name, the actual conductor nominal cross section area is smaller than the metric name size.
Lastly, my experience with Dupont 0.64 connectors is that they pull apart easily (no latch, low terminal mating force, no polarization) ... after several printer failures due to this, they are no longer allowed on my printers!!! LOL.
As an American, it doesn't really make sense - but you get used to it and can have a rough feeling for the size of a wire when using it in conversation with someone. Also all of the wire here is labeled with it, so we never need to convert to a real size :D
At 9:55 what happens if they touch? Wouldn't that cause a shortage?
It would, that's what electricians tape is for.
or just use heatshrink/ isolated connectors.
You can print cable drag chains if you don't want to buy one.
speaker wire has the bad factor of not being tightly wound, so you end up with fat cables, but copper by weight is much much lower
Careful with multi signal wires in a cable chain, they have a tenancy to break their insulation, and end up coming out of the outer insulation too.
What I don't understand is why 2 wires of the cat 5 cable should be enough for the heater, but for a single wire Thomas recommends a 0.75 mm² wire? 2 wires of a cat 5 cable have much less surface. Shouldn't a 0.5mm² cable, that I have already, be good enough?
@1:21 there is a tiny radial blower fan, anyone know where you can get those?
Ebay, search for 20mm or 25mm blower fan.
+DoggoBot 3D Printing ahh thanks :)
Now how about software?
What about the 8 pin plug that connects to the back of control boxes like the the cr 10 and tevo tornado? I can’t be the only idiot who removed wires from it when I tried to upgrade the hot end. Anybody wire one of those up?
Whoa, 4:25. A 12 volt, 4 to 12 amp DC continuous load running through 22 gauge wire? I would recommend at least 16 gauge. My beds have 16 and 12 gauge wire.
What he mention 22AWG is for 40W heater in the hotend which is around 3.5A, it's in tier 2 in the video.
Heated bed is in tier 3.
He was referring to the heating element in the hot end -- 4A, that is also pulsed.
I'd also recommend these: www.aliexpress.com/item/100sets-lot-connectors-SM-SM-4Pin-Pitch-2-54MM-Female-and-Male-Housing-terminals-SM/32298674345.html same pitch as dupont but keyed and locking, nice to avoid confusion and doesn't disconnect itself from the machine moving.
Thanks, how do you crimp thes connectors?
same tool that crimps dupont should work, I do it with needle nose pliers though.
Thank you Christian, They look usefull for the moving parts. I'll order them now
All Dupont crimpers are not created equal! Don't buy cheap ones from China ie. Aliexpress
They look the same but are not. The cheap ones do a terrible job and make it difficult to get the pin in the housing once you have crimped it and you will end up buying a more expensive one after.
Thomas, I would recommend giving people a link or links to ones you know work.
I second that. I have bought a cheap Dupont crimping tool and spent a couple weeks struggling to get it to work.
I'd really be interested in a link to those crimping sets that Thomas mentioned in the video.
You didn't show how to wire the board....
I HATE WIRING
If you want the best choice in wiring use wire designed for continuous motion on a CNC, and battery cable or small size welding cable is always the best choice if you want to heat a hot bed and never want to worry about the wire failing. What is said in the video about lots of fine wires in each wire is very much true, as it will take longer to fail. All wires break over time, and if designed properly the wires that are used will not be ready to fail till after your expected life of your product. Failure takes a few different forms one is the conductors failing due to bending and this is easy to find as the wires stretch when pulling on them, and the other is the failure of the insulation. The insulation fails due to heat, abrasion, or chemical attack. I have seen all of these failures on CNC equipment that I have personally worked on over my years.
PEOPLE and TOM> NEVER EVER EVER!!!! use speaker wire for power wire period. is not designed to move volts. it can melt and can catch fire. i am MECP mobile electronics certified. YOU NEVER use speaker wire for a power wire period you are asking for fire. i have seen people get 3rd degree burns while holding speaker wire and tried to use a 12v drill to POP a speaker. speaker was bad and the wire melted instantly to dudes hand. ive seen cars catch on fire cause someone used speaker wire to charge a cell phone. i have seen boats caught fire cause someone used speaker wire to run a gps or fish finder.
speaker wire is not designed to move voltage just wattage. there is a difference. this is video people in anet groups said they seen where people use speaker wire for mosfets. facepalm. then gives anet a bad name. update firm ware then use speaker wire for power ? LOL face palm.
i like svga cables and svga brakeout boards 18 20 gauge wire fine strand
i like svga cables and svga brakeout boards 18 20 gauge wire fine strand
i like svga cables and svga brakeout boards 18 20 gauge wire fine strand