As state by a few others, you may not want to use a screw driver as a chuck. Although the amount of force needed to loosen in all of my cases has been so minimal that I wouldn't be too concerned. Glad it was of use to you!
I think Gould assembles them with the seal against the diaphragm just because it's easier / quicker assembly... I put my seal in the hole of the diaphragm as you did ... Pumps like a banshee over 80 psi...
Thanks, this was useful, but I think that I have one correction. When I opened my J5S up, I too found the diaphragm was not in the groove of the seal ring, but this was the first time that it was ever opened, so that seems to have been how it was originally assembled by Goulds. I took a look in the service manual, which can be downloaded from the Goulds website. It actually says to first place the diaphragm onto the guide vane hub (i.e. in the motor side, not in the housing side as you did) and then to place the seal ring onto the hub after that, with a photo showing doing exactly that. The hole in my new diaphragm was the exact size to fit on the hub on its own, and when I tried to insert it into the channel in the seal first it didn't fit right and ended up twisted out of shape. So it does seem like the guys at your parts place were correct, and you should just slide the seal ring onto the hub after putting the diaphragm onto it.
Agreed.. I just took my JS7 pump apart and the seal ring was put onto the plastic diffuser part and the diaphragm on top.. i.e the seal ring was not in the groove.
Same with gt15 irrigator. The seal is on the inlet side of the diaphragm. Seems counterintuitive, as the groove in the gasket in my mind's eye should fit in the hole of the diaphragm
Thank you for sharing. I found the seal to be loose inside… pump just spinning but no pressure . Now I see that you mentioned that is very important so I’m gonna make sure when I buy the kit. The existing seal seems to be expanded now and unable to put it back into the circle
I guess I should have read the comments beforehand. Found another video where the guy did that by holding with a wrench . Very good advice to hold the shaft the proper way. Luckily I didn't break anything following the advice in the video.
I agree. Do NOT put the metal file or screwdriver the way it is shown here to lock up the shaft. That is a plastic cooling fan with vanes that will break off if you need to apply enough pressure to loosen a tight impeller. (Ask me how I know.) I followed this video and did that and broke off a piece of two of the vanes. I'm hoping I didn't do enough damage to cause any issues with the pump when it runs.
I have that exact same pump. It was left in a house that was abandoned wasn’t winterized the water froze and cracked it just the pump head. I can’t seem to find a replacement for this J5S pump. I need the pump head and the rebuild kit I’m on Long Island in New York and I cannot find it. I would appreciate it if you know where I can get one. Thanks
You can various websites or if you have a Ferguson Plumbing Supply store, they usually carry parts. Any quality plumbing store that sells Gould pumps will also carry the parts. Best of luck 👍
The seal ring (Gould’s 5K6) should not be installed inside the diaphragm gasket (Gould’s 5K557). Put the guidevane (Gould’s 3K75) over impeller (Gould’s 2K4), and snug the screws. Reach in the middle and spin the impeller with your finger and adjust the guidevane before tightening so that the impeller is not rubbing on guidevane hub. Then place the diaphragm over the guidevane, then slide the seal ring over the guidevane hub on the OUTSIDE of the diaphragm. The install the pump housing. Never stick a file or screwdriver through to hold backup. Use a 7/16” wrench maneuvered down the back side of the motor to align with the wrench flats on the shaft. I rebuild these for a living.
Hi Klaus, That impeller seal surface really got eaten up. Assume once it got grooved up that bad you had very little pressure build up,,or eventually no pressure buildup.
@@HaemonAK The reason i ask is,,, I have an old Wayne pump SWS50 similar to yours but not as heavy. I pulled from our house basement as it took along time to recover fill tank ,It was only 3 years old at the time, It sit in garage for 5 years,,and now wanted to use it to be dedicated for vegetable garden. I tore it apart just for kicks, i see nothing at all wrong with it,If i put intake hose in 5 gallon bucket of water it barely dribbles out discharge . If i pull hose out of bucket and up in the air dump water down the inlet from jug it will blast out water discharge like crazy. Almost as though there is a suction leak? Mine is setup quite different from yours in regards to the impeller/diffuser. My diffuser/impeller mating surfaces has no grooves at all. They are so simple...after looking at them, I am more curious than anything why this will not pull a prime from a five gallon bucket...Sorry! For long message
@@brcisna No worries at all. Yes, if you can't pull from a 5 gallon bucket, I'd look to see if it's got a leak in your pickup tube. Have you primed your pump using water to start as well?
@@HaemonAK , Thanks for suggestion. Here's how im test benching this shallow well jet pump. 1. Inlet has plastic 1 1/4 MPT plastic to 1 1/4 barb, have a two foot section of new not sure what type rubber hose is very heavy duty, for irrigation I think ,not sure spin name of the schedule, put two hose clamps on hose at barbed fitting to make sure it is pulling down tight after weak output, Pump sits on two concrete blocks with five gallon bucket right beside the blocks on ground . Other end of hose stuck in bucket of water. i have a gallon jug to prime with. Eventually the pump will start dribbling out water out discharge,and if i hold hand over discharge it will build fairly decent pressure if i release hand slightly,,,do this a few times,,then the pressure completely peters out. Have repeated this a few times, It seems like after run time just a little bit, few minutes the pump warms up and then really gets weak, Almost wonder if the diffuser is warped but i did glob some good silicone between mating surface to seal shaft that diffuser bolts to. Was just hoping to use what I had on hand but this pump isnt worth the cost of a rebuild kit. Can find a decent low end submerisible pump for about cost of rebuild kit. BUT,Ill have to put down a new casing to accomidate the larger diameter submersible pump. :( Sorry for long message again.
@@HaemonAK Sorry for all the messages. Am wondering if maybe the shaft seal would cause an intake leak? I would think the shaft seal would almost have to show signs of leaking out if this were the case. My curiousity just gets to me when seeing how simple these things are after getting into one of them, I never did actually take the impeller lose from shaft seeings it looks perfect.
You risk break-in the plastic motor cooling fins by holding shaft that way,, take end off and use 7/16 wrench,, so many people making vedios that don't know what there doing.
Anybody have an on-line parts dealer for this kit. Seems to be very difficult to find for some reason. I’ve only found a couple and of course they’re out of stock. I live in Canada but would happily order from the states if I could source the parts there. eBay has had the kit in the past. Good video, thanks!
Be care full by stick that file in you can brake the inside fan or hit motor winding it safer to just hold the back and I didn't see anything wrong with the impeller ya it had a little ware but it should still pump. I bet the jet in the housing had some silt in side it that would effect it more then any thing when taken in they just cleaned it out. Iv been build booster for 18+ year and just by looking at it I can tell you in less that front part of the impeller had made a huge gap that's the only way it will effect the pumping 👍👌✌️💯💦🌊🥂 what part of Alaska I spent 6 mouth out of a year for 5 year there with my grandpa 😁
Do you know the torque specs for putting this pump back together? I replaced the diaphram on mine and reassembled it. Is the diaphram installed dry or should I use some pipe dope on the faces to help it seal. I am still having a slight dripping leak. I am afraid to tighten it anymore for fear of snapping off on of the "ears". Thanks
@@kenjordan5164 never heard of any torque spec to tighten it the can snap. Be careful. It need to be cleaned up better if it leaking and tighten Chris cross pattern even it should seal I never put anything on it to seal this type of pump uselly if it leaks it has rust build up or you haven't tighten it even if any thing put silicone on the lip lightly tighten let dry should seal it up hope that helps.👍✌️💯🍻💧🌊🛠️
IMHO Do NOT put the metal file or screwdriver the way it is shown here to lock up the shaft. That is a plastic cooling fan with vanes that will break off if you need to apply enough pressure to loosen a tight impeller. (Ask me how I know.) I followed this video and did that and broke off a piece of two of the vanes. I'm hoping I didn't do enough damage to cause any issues with the pump when it runs.
The diagram just sits onto the seal. You aren't supposed to put it on both sides of the diagram as you did. Don't assume and do as you please then make a video so others can make the same mistake.
Thanks! This video helped me repair my pump! The rubber ring thing was tricky but I finally got it!
As state by a few others, you may not want to use a screw driver as a chuck. Although the amount of force needed to loosen in all of my cases has been so minimal that I wouldn't be too concerned.
Glad it was of use to you!
I think Gould assembles them with the seal against the diaphragm just because it's easier / quicker assembly... I put my seal in the hole of the diaphragm as you did ... Pumps like a banshee over 80 psi...
Thanks, this was useful, but I think that I have one correction. When I opened my J5S up, I too found the diaphragm was not in the groove of the seal ring, but this was the first time that it was ever opened, so that seems to have been how it was originally assembled by Goulds. I took a look in the service manual, which can be downloaded from the Goulds website. It actually says to first place the diaphragm onto the guide vane hub (i.e. in the motor side, not in the housing side as you did) and then to place the seal ring onto the hub after that, with a photo showing doing exactly that. The hole in my new diaphragm was the exact size to fit on the hub on its own, and when I tried to insert it into the channel in the seal first it didn't fit right and ended up twisted out of shape. So it does seem like the guys at your parts place were correct, and you should just slide the seal ring onto the hub after putting the diaphragm onto it.
Agreed.. I just took my JS7 pump apart and the seal ring was put onto the plastic diffuser part and the diaphragm on top.. i.e the seal ring was not in the groove.
Same with gt15 irrigator. The seal is on the inlet side of the diaphragm. Seems counterintuitive, as the groove in the gasket in my mind's eye should fit in the hole of the diaphragm
Thank you for sharing. I found the seal to be loose inside… pump just spinning but no pressure . Now I see that you mentioned that is very important so I’m gonna make sure when I buy the kit. The existing seal seems to be expanded now and unable to put it back into the circle
Dont use the screw driver to chuck the shaft. Thats a plastic internal fan which you are chucking on. Use the 7.16 on the back. Much safer.
I guess I should have read the comments beforehand. Found another video where the guy did that by holding with a wrench . Very good advice to hold the shaft the proper way. Luckily I didn't break anything following the advice in the video.
I agree. Do NOT put the metal file or screwdriver the way it is shown here to lock up the shaft. That is a plastic cooling fan with vanes that will break off if you need to apply enough pressure to loosen a tight impeller. (Ask me how I know.) I followed this video and did that and broke off a piece of two of the vanes. I'm hoping I didn't do enough damage to cause any issues with the pump when it runs.
Helpful, thanks. I used to live on POW.
Thank you so much for this! VERY helpful😊
Very helpful!!! Much appreciated!!!
Thanks for the walk-through.
I hope it helped Dave!
Do you use any lube, where those pieces might rub together like in the black thing on the gasket or the part that you mentioned was worn from silt
I have that exact same pump. It was left in a house that was abandoned wasn’t winterized the water froze and cracked it just the pump head. I can’t seem to find a replacement for this J5S pump. I need the pump head and the rebuild kit I’m on Long Island in New York and I cannot find it. I would appreciate it if you know where I can get one. Thanks
No gasket for the casing??
That's really funny. I often do maintenance then break it lol
Where do u order parts from for these pumps
You can various websites or if you have a Ferguson Plumbing Supply store, they usually carry parts. Any quality plumbing store that sells Gould pumps will also carry the parts.
Best of luck 👍
Where can I find the white diaphram? The ones I am finding online have an additional hole at 6 oclock.
i think the additional hole at 6 oclock is for the Goulds Irrigator GT series pumps it may also fit other pumps too.
The seal ring (Gould’s 5K6) should not be installed inside the diaphragm gasket (Gould’s 5K557). Put the guidevane (Gould’s 3K75) over impeller (Gould’s 2K4), and snug the screws. Reach in the middle and spin the impeller with your finger and adjust the guidevane before tightening so that the impeller is not rubbing on guidevane hub. Then place the diaphragm over the guidevane, then slide the seal ring over the guidevane hub on the OUTSIDE of the diaphragm. The install the pump housing. Never stick a file or screwdriver through to hold backup. Use a 7/16” wrench maneuvered down the back side of the motor to align with the wrench flats on the shaft. I rebuild these for a living.
Hi Klaus, That impeller seal surface really got eaten up. Assume once it got grooved up that bad you had very little pressure build up,,or eventually no pressure buildup.
Pretty much, the pump would take almost 10 minutes to build up to 62 PSI in my 36 gallon tank, when previously it could fill in under 30 seconds.
@@HaemonAK The reason i ask is,,, I have an old Wayne pump SWS50 similar to yours but not as heavy. I pulled from our house basement as it took along time to recover fill tank ,It was only 3 years old at the time, It sit in garage for 5 years,,and now wanted to use it to be dedicated for vegetable garden. I tore it apart just for kicks, i see nothing at all wrong with it,If i put intake hose in 5 gallon bucket of water it barely dribbles out discharge . If i pull hose out of bucket and up in the air dump water down the inlet from jug it will blast out water discharge like crazy. Almost as though there is a suction leak? Mine is setup quite different from yours in regards to the impeller/diffuser. My diffuser/impeller mating surfaces has no grooves at all. They are so simple...after looking at them, I am more curious than anything why this will not pull a prime from a five gallon bucket...Sorry! For long message
@@brcisna No worries at all. Yes, if you can't pull from a 5 gallon bucket, I'd look to see if it's got a leak in your pickup tube. Have you primed your pump using water to start as well?
@@HaemonAK , Thanks for suggestion. Here's how im test benching this shallow well jet pump.
1. Inlet has plastic 1 1/4 MPT plastic to 1 1/4 barb, have a two foot section of new not sure what type rubber hose is very heavy duty, for irrigation I think ,not sure spin name of the schedule, put two hose clamps on hose at barbed fitting to make sure it is pulling down tight after weak output, Pump sits on two concrete blocks with five gallon bucket right beside the blocks on ground . Other end of hose stuck in bucket of water. i have a gallon jug to prime with. Eventually the pump will start dribbling out water out discharge,and if i hold hand over discharge it will build fairly decent pressure if i release hand slightly,,,do this a few times,,then the pressure completely peters out. Have repeated this a few times, It seems like after run time just a little bit, few minutes the pump warms up and then really gets weak, Almost wonder if the diffuser is warped but i did glob some good silicone between mating surface to seal shaft that diffuser bolts to. Was just hoping to use what I had on hand but this pump isnt worth the cost of a rebuild kit. Can find a decent low end submerisible pump for about cost of rebuild kit. BUT,Ill have to put down a new casing to accomidate the larger diameter submersible pump. :( Sorry for long message again.
@@HaemonAK Sorry for all the messages. Am wondering if maybe the shaft seal would cause an intake leak? I would think the shaft seal would almost have to show signs of leaking out if this were the case. My curiousity just gets to me when seeing how simple these things are after getting into one of them, I never did actually take the impeller lose from shaft seeings it looks perfect.
You risk break-in the plastic motor cooling fins by holding shaft that way,, take end off and use 7/16 wrench,, so many people making vedios that don't know what there doing.
Anybody have an on-line parts dealer for this kit. Seems to be very difficult to find for some reason. I’ve only found a couple and of course they’re out of stock. I live in Canada but would happily order from the states if I could source the parts there. eBay has had the kit in the past. Good video, thanks!
Try and get on the phone with somebody.
@@blaine4754 Thanks, tried. These plumbing places are very secretive in Canada. Got a rebuild kit on eBay anyway.
@@peterbush7900 not my experience with suppliers in USA! Took me 5 minutes to get on the phone and order a SCOT pump seal kit
guy you jamming that screwdriver on the rotor fan remove back cover insert 7/16 spanner and tighten impellar
Be care full by stick that file in you can brake the inside fan or hit motor winding it safer to just hold the back and I didn't see anything wrong with the impeller ya it had a little ware but it should still pump. I bet the jet in the housing had some silt in side it that would effect it more then any thing when taken in they just cleaned it out. Iv been build booster for 18+ year and just by looking at it I can tell you in less that front part of the impeller had made a huge gap that's the only way it will effect the pumping 👍👌✌️💯💦🌊🥂 what part of Alaska I spent 6 mouth out of a year for 5 year there with my grandpa 😁
Do you know the torque specs for putting this pump back together? I replaced the diaphram on mine and reassembled it. Is the diaphram installed dry or should I use some pipe dope on the faces to help it seal. I am still having a slight dripping leak. I am afraid to tighten it anymore for fear of snapping off on of the "ears". Thanks
@@kenjordan5164 never heard of any torque spec to tighten it the can snap. Be careful. It need to be cleaned up better if it leaking and tighten Chris cross pattern even it should seal I never put anything on it to seal this type of pump uselly if it leaks it has rust build up or you haven't tighten it even if any thing put silicone on the lip lightly tighten let dry should seal it up hope that helps.👍✌️💯🍻💧🌊🛠️
IMHO Do NOT put the metal file or screwdriver the way it is shown here to lock up the shaft. That is a plastic cooling fan with vanes that will break off if you need to apply enough pressure to loosen a tight impeller. (Ask me how I know.) I followed this video and did that and broke off a piece of two of the vanes. I'm hoping I didn't do enough damage to cause any issues with the pump when it runs.
The diagram just sits onto the seal. You aren't supposed to put it on both sides of the diagram as you did. Don't assume and do as you please then make a video so others can make the same mistake.
Parts for these aren’t cheap lol