For your first time, your presentation was outstanding. You explained and visually demonstrated the how's and why's and do's and don't. You were easy to follow and gave my confidence the boost it needed. Thanks
Just FYI - Acid core is typically used for plumbing and rosin core is for electrical/electronics work. Heat shrink tubing can be slipped onto the cable first away from the heated portion to prevent the insulation walking back from the joint when trying to put the tubing on. Besides that, good vid!
Great Job Jeremy! So this is how all my connections are. I've been soldering everything for years. A lot of time I will flux and pre tin the connections then crimp them and solder. Solder still wicks up and fills the joint solid. If you don't use it already look for the shrink tubing with the adhesive inside. The heat melts the adhesive and seals the wire to the connector water tight! Good stuff! Living near the ocean we have great places like West Marine where I can pick up all sorts of pre tinned connectors. Marine grade electrical distribution blocks, power disconnects, fuses, breakers etc.. All high quality stuff and it survives the winter being designed for salt water boats. BTW.. I run all my electrical through a 900A / 1200A surge disconnect. If I need to disconnect power fast it's a quick flip of the knob on it. I've seen a couple off-road vehicles go up and decided mine wouldn't be next. Keep up the videos Jeremy! The camera loves you... hahaha...
Rich Lynch Thank you for mentioning West Marine. They also have top grade marine cables in bulk rolls, that can't be beat. A little pricy, but worth it.
David Padilla. Oh I know.. my Jeep is wired with it. Good stuff! For sure it isn't cheap but when you add the term marine to anything you can bet your bippie it's not cheap! Haha..
Being an Electrician, you have the basics spot on. A couple of pointers, the heat is being drawn into your vice. The way to overcome that is to use heat-resistant neoprene covers for the jaws on your vice. The cheaper way is to use two pieces of hardwood and wet them before you heat up the lugs. If you don't know how much solder to use, fill the lug up with water, then put a scrap piece of the cable you're going to use to strip the end to insert it into the lug the excess water will spill out. Remove the cable, it will leave an amount of water in the lug. Take note of that level, that will give you the level you need to fill the lug with solder. The other point is put the heat shrink over the cable first and slide it down the cable away from any heat transfer, then slide it down and heat it up. Keep those vlogs coming.
Surprised as an electrician you find Soldered Battery lugs (Acid core no less) acceptable. The vibrations in the vehicle have a tendency to break off at the soldered joint because of the stiffness, and heat from pulling high amperage and being in the engine bay. A Hydraulic crimp is what I have always been told to use for this application. What would be your pros vs cons in your opinion of these two methods?
You can also crimp the connector but make sure you have a quality crimper. I bought a hydraulic crimper because is the best way to make crimped connector. Great job Jeremy!
Unless you have a very good hydraulic crimper with a butt load of dies the manual crimpers that can be calibrated are better. The problem with affordable hydraulic crimpers (under a grand) is that often the dies are just a little too small or too large when they bottom out/finish crimping. They just don't give you enough dies to do it properly. The actual gauge of wire from one manufacturer to another varies quite a bit, you need a lot of dies to compensate for this. One die per wire size is not good enough. This ultimately results in a substandard crimp that didn't fully finish compressing all the strands in the interior of the lug (you cant see it with out cutting a crimped lug in half). Or the opposite, one that has been over crimped.
@Leopold No that is why you invest money in quality tools. A professional grade crimper can calibrate to crush thickness and won't lock you into using only one cable or lug manufacturer. The cheap die based crimpers are unable to do so and produce inferior end results anyway. There is up to a 20% variance in wire size alone.
I want to see more of Jeremy passing on garage knowledge please. I really enjoy the practical explanations and reasoning behind why things are preferred one way versus another.
Yeah! Thank you for your video. I am going to tell the wlmrt guy about your video because he did a very bad job installing a new terminal to my car battery! He needs to learn about your skills and common sense laws. Many thanks again. You gave us a great lesson .
Using acid core on wires is a big no no. The acid will eventually deteriorate the copper wires. Rosin core is the only thing to use on electrical wiring. Good video!
Jeremy you did a great job! Mabey we will see you do a few more episodes? I do really enjoy the videos you and Matt do together. Your banter and such really makes the episode. Keep up the vreat work!
You can buy a hydraulic crimping tool which will permanently crimp the wire and you don't have to worry about how much solder and flux to use, what type of solder and flux to use, if you have enough fuel in your torch, etc etc. Hydraulic crimps are quick, easy, and permanent
You have explained cable lug soldering very well. Jeremy, you are an excellent teacher. Thank you. Well done! But may I add some suggestions. The youtuber 1crazynordlander has made one excellent safety point. That's to make a mechanical connection with the cable and the lug joint. Because as he/she has stated in the comments of this video, if you encounter higher than normal loads thus higher than normal amperage and higher than normal temperature would occur. This means that could melt the solder and the cable will fall out of the lug. Let me add to this. Maybe do both types of joints. Make a mechanical connection with the lug first by crimping it to the cable to prevent cable from falling off the lug if it heats up from higher than normal amperage. Then soldering the joint with rosin core solder to prevent the copper strands from oxidizing. Finally add heat shrink tubing with some adhesive, or heat resistant silicon to prevent any moisture from penetrating the joint. Also, if using cables in a environment where vibration occurs, when installing the cable, use cable ties to secure cable from any form of vibration. Then as a maintenance measure, once cables are installed. Routinely check cables and connections for any melting, wear, deterioration or damage.
Man! BleepinJeeps got Nate & Jeremy now, its like daily content! good video! I'll be doing it this weekend.. i have the weak saddle type on mine right now
I appreciate your enthusiasm and your pointing out an important method to avoid future problems. However, if you indeed did use acid core solder, and you did not clean the joint after soldering, the acid will stay in the joint and corrode the copper. Eventually you will get the green crusties inside your fitting.
So, there you go. Above, somebody questioned using acid core solder. Another guy replied, " don't say something is wrong without giving a reason." Me too, I've never heard of using acid core solder on electrical, for more than 50 years. I think that has been established here,
I made a milled block to fit all sizes of terminal and rounded the ends of some old punches. Make as good a termination as what you showed and cost me old tools. Hammer them down straight, then one hit back at a 45 to the sheath to set. Thanks for this one.
I love these Jeremy videos!! Hey Jeremy, quick tip, if you melt a little solder on the exposed end of that wire before you even start putting solder in the copper terminal, it will hold all those stragglers together so you don't even have to deal with them afterwards. Then just plunge it into the terminal full of melted solder and do just as you were doing and it should be good to go. Excellent video man. =)
I was thinking about that. Does the extra solder make the fit too tight? I've done this on a smaller scale (pencil width) and fully tinning the wire can ruin the fit, on the small wires that have alot more wiggle room. Just curious...
WoOsKii 1 I would say it really depends on how much solder you melt into the cable. If you just lightly tin it, it shouldn't swell very much if at all. With proper heat, the solder will wick into the center of the cable strands and it'll be just enough to hold the strands into one single chunk for easy insertion. Then, when you assemble the terminal and heat it again, the solder of the cable end will melt and the solder I the terminal will wick further into the cable filling in all the gaps all the way to the center of the cable.
@@mannys9130 That's a very good idea! Just a very little tinning on the strands of wire before you insert it into the lug should take care of any straggling wires, and the little tinning will not swell up the wire.
Seen your video thank you very much it was easy AND VERY HELPFUL TO comprehend and follow your steps. THE DIFFICULT PART WAS HAVING TO WORK ON IT FOR THE FIRST TIME. MY. POSTIVE CABEL WAS CORRODED AND RUSTED. SO I had to cut the cable wire connected to the battery terminal . I was able to do it thanks too your video . The car turned on first try. It was struggling to turn on . But once I took it for a drive the power came back. I DID TEST THE BAYTERY AT AUTOZONE AND IT HAD A BAD CELL WITCH I will be replacing a new battery .
I was told by an electrician a while back that you shouldn’t use Acid core solder, you should use rosin core for electrical. Other than that it was a very informative video! Great job man!
I have always soldered my wires for everything and from what I was taught 50 years ago the flux is what makes the solder suck into a joint or connection... 100% agree with you and I'm the type of guy that would bi×$h if I was hung with a new rope... Hard to please... Great tutorial for someone new to this type of deal... Great video content and done a darn fine job doing it... And the T's are awesome if you run 2 batteries on your jeep like I do the hot side in parallel... Then just bolt the grounds to the frame... Thumbs ☝
You did such a good job, that I'll be doing that tomorrow. I'm putting a bigger alternator on my '83 cj7 with a 4.3 Chev. I got to make a cable from the battery to the alternator. Maybe a 6 guage wire.
Nice video Jeremy. Couldn't tell it was your first. That is the same way I do mine and it is nice to see you reaffirm my method. My cables are for marine applications. This way keeps out moisture as well. Thanks!
I like that way of connecting a battery cable to the battery. I have been using those other battery connectors and after using one for my trolling motor I thought why not do this method. So they say crimping is better then solder for vibration. I personally like to do both. If it's worth doing it's worth over doing. Your solder looked like it might be am acid based. You want to use an acid free solder. Great video glad to know this method is already in use on off road vehicles. I should have done it for both tractors and the pickup. Like you said super easy to disconnect the cable and sometimes during the slow season it's better to disconnect the batteries to reduce their drain.
Great job Jeremy! I've been doing all my battery cables like this for years. I do all my connections with solder and heat shrink. I hate those little red, blue, and yellow crimp connectors. Every time I've had the taillights on a trailer quit working it's been one of those stupid little crimpits.
I agree but with a small caveat, quality crimps done with the proper tool are very good. Problem is, noone wants to pay 100 bucks for the right tool, let alone finding quality crimps. As for trailer lights in particular, they usually use the frame as a ground, I prefer to run the extra wire and never have issues.
Great first video on your own. I think that you'd be a good teacher for an offroad driving school. I'd like to see you do more videos, kinda like the guys out west.
Great vid, J! One thing, though...I would strongly suggest NOT using acid core solder for wiring. That stuff is designed to work with somewhat less-than-clean copper pipe and should not be used for wiring as the acid flux can actually eat through the small strands of wire (leaving a green, corroded mess). For wire, you want to use rosin core or, better yet, fluxless (no core) solder paired with a flux paste like you used in the video. Cheers, dude and keep those vids coming my man!!!!
This video should be titled "How To Make Your Own Battery Cables the Wrong Way". The solder has to meet the copper wire somewhere and it will make a rigid joint. With vibration that is where it will fail. The terminals are flared to allow some wire flex after the terminal has been properly "crimped". Also every strand is important to carry the load the current the gauge is rated at. Never clip off stragglers. The flare is not there to help you insert the wire, rather it is there to prevent damage due to vibration and when flexing the completed joint.
Rosin Core for electrical, acid core for plumbing. Use one of the small hose clamps to hold your stranded cable together so it can be inserted into the lug. Remove the clamp after the wire is in the lug then heat it up and push it the rest of the way in.
Emery cloth to clean the fittings before you flux the fitting also helps along with having it hot enough I say this cause I solder copper every day using different types of solder
I think your video was great. It is good quality with audio as well. I have zero soldering experience. And you explained it Barney style so even I can understand. The only problem I could see. Is it's a long video. Normally I look for the shortest video. But I had time today. Thanks for making it. And happy turkey day
Not sure if your aware but high end heat shrink will have glue on the inside that melts when you heat it. This insure an actual seal and is superior in pretty much every way to non glue that they sell at regular auto stores! Working at a wire harness shop has its benefits, we never use anything but the glue shrink.
When test fitting the cable you can solder the cable to make it solid and if it doesn't fit you can use a file on it instead of dealing with wire strands.
I've not personally had it, but a lot of guys I know say that any kind of imperfect connection caused by things like inadequate connection surface or even simply a terminal coming loose can generate a lot of resistance and thus heat, so they say relying solely on a soldered connection is dangerous as this heat can potentially melt the solder. As a precaution, they often hit the lug with a center punch and hammer to create an indent just as a mechanical reassurance
Good video buddy learned something new today was looking how to ghetto crimp or whatever didn't have any crimpers and definitely am waiting and just doing it this way sometimes its better to just wait lol 👍
For your first time, your presentation was outstanding. You explained and visually demonstrated the how's and why's and do's and don't. You were easy to follow and gave my confidence the boost it needed. Thanks
Just FYI - Acid core is typically used for plumbing and rosin core is for electrical/electronics work. Heat shrink tubing can be slipped onto the cable first away from the heated portion to prevent the insulation walking back from the joint when trying to put the tubing on. Besides that, good vid!
Y Mn gf tty4v13450
Great Job Jeremy! So this is how all my connections are. I've been soldering everything for years. A lot of time I will flux and pre tin the connections then crimp them and solder. Solder still wicks up and fills the joint solid. If you don't use it already look for the shrink tubing with the adhesive inside. The heat melts the adhesive and seals the wire to the connector water tight! Good stuff! Living near the ocean we have great places like West Marine where I can pick up all sorts of pre tinned connectors. Marine grade electrical distribution blocks, power disconnects, fuses, breakers etc.. All high quality stuff and it survives the winter being designed for salt water boats. BTW.. I run all my electrical through a 900A / 1200A surge disconnect. If I need to disconnect power fast it's a quick flip of the knob on it. I've seen a couple off-road vehicles go up and decided mine wouldn't be next.
Keep up the videos Jeremy! The camera loves you... hahaha...
Rich Lynch Thank you for mentioning West Marine. They also have top grade marine cables in bulk rolls, that can't be beat. A little pricy, but worth it.
David Padilla. Oh I know.. my Jeep is wired with it. Good stuff! For sure it isn't cheap but when you add the term marine to anything you can bet your bippie it's not cheap! Haha..
Being an Electrician, you have the basics spot on. A couple of pointers, the heat is being drawn into your vice. The way to overcome that is to use heat-resistant neoprene covers for the jaws on your vice. The cheaper way is to use two pieces of hardwood and wet them before you heat up the lugs. If you don't know how much solder to use, fill the lug up with water, then put a scrap piece of the cable you're going to use to strip the end to insert it into the lug the excess water will spill out. Remove the cable, it will leave an amount of water in the lug. Take note of that level, that will give you the level you need to fill the lug with solder. The other point is put the heat shrink over the cable first and slide it down the cable away from any heat transfer, then slide it down and heat it up. Keep those vlogs coming.
Surprised as an electrician you find Soldered Battery lugs (Acid core no less) acceptable. The vibrations in the vehicle have a tendency to break off at the soldered joint because of the stiffness, and heat from pulling high amperage and being in the engine bay. A Hydraulic crimp is what I have always been told to use for this application. What would be your pros vs cons in your opinion of these two methods?
good video, especially like the idea of solider wicking up the wire to stiffen the wire beyond the terminal.
You can also crimp the connector but make sure you have a quality crimper.
I bought a hydraulic crimper because is the best way to make crimped connector.
Great job Jeremy!
Unless you have a very good hydraulic crimper with a butt load of dies the manual crimpers that can be calibrated are better.
The problem with affordable hydraulic crimpers (under a grand) is that often the dies are just a little too small or too large when they bottom out/finish crimping. They just don't give you enough dies to do it properly. The actual gauge of wire from one manufacturer to another varies quite a bit, you need a lot of dies to compensate for this. One die per wire size is not good enough.
This ultimately results in a substandard crimp that didn't fully finish compressing all the strands in the interior of the lug (you cant see it with out cutting a crimped lug in half). Or the opposite, one that has been over crimped.
@Leopold No that is why you invest money in quality tools. A professional grade crimper can calibrate to crush thickness and won't lock you into using only one cable or lug manufacturer.
The cheap die based crimpers are unable to do so and produce inferior end results anyway.
There is up to a 20% variance in wire size alone.
@Leopold You won't get a "perfect" crimp with a mickey mouse die crimper. You have no way to calibrate it and check for accuracy.
You did good as or better than most videos on TH-cam.
I want to see more of Jeremy passing on garage knowledge please. I really enjoy the practical explanations and reasoning behind why things are preferred one way versus another.
Hell yeah I'm excited about battery cables now ! Lol great video !! 👍
Yeah! Thank you for your video. I am going to tell the wlmrt guy about your video because he did a very bad job installing a new terminal to my car battery! He needs to learn about your skills and common sense laws. Many thanks again. You gave us a great lesson .
Great video Jeremy. You are a natural at the video makin. Felt like we were just hanging out in the shop makin cables. Please make more...
A Jeremy TH-cam channel needs to be a thing
Arthur Roy nah, I think he needs his on segment on bleepin jeep
Or just more on him here on BJ
He's already on a channel why start another one?
More of just Jeremy! Great personality and information. This is one of my favorite videos on the channel!
That was great! I'm do this to all my cables now.
Awesome video showing how to do it with solder. I usually hammer crimp mine like a knuckle-dragger.
My jeep left me on the road for this exact problem today. Thank for the great video👍
Using acid core on wires is a big no no. The acid will eventually deteriorate the copper wires. Rosin core is the only thing to use on electrical wiring. Good video!
I did the same thing with all my battery connections when I changed the post connections to Marine type. The heat shrink makes a pro look.
Jeremy you did a great job! Mabey we will see you do a few more episodes? I do really enjoy the videos you and Matt do together. Your banter and such really makes the episode. Keep up the vreat work!
You can buy a hydraulic crimping tool which will permanently crimp the wire and you don't have to worry about how much solder and flux to use, what type of solder and flux to use, if you have enough fuel in your torch, etc etc. Hydraulic crimps are quick, easy, and permanent
ArcticAstrophysics they are sweet but not everyone has one! They are fast and easy no doubt.
love videos with Jeremy. Did a good job explaining how solder behaves. At my shop we call it sweating when the solder travels where the heat goes.
You have explained cable lug soldering very well. Jeremy, you are an excellent teacher. Thank you. Well done!
But may I add some suggestions. The youtuber 1crazynordlander has made one excellent safety point. That's to make a mechanical connection with the cable and the lug joint. Because as he/she has stated in the comments of this video, if you encounter higher than normal loads thus higher than normal amperage and higher than normal temperature would occur. This means that could melt the solder and the cable will fall out of the lug.
Let me add to this. Maybe do both types of joints.
Make a mechanical connection with the lug first by crimping it to the cable to prevent cable from falling off the lug if it heats up from higher than normal amperage.
Then soldering the joint with rosin core solder to prevent the copper strands from oxidizing.
Finally add heat shrink tubing with some adhesive, or heat resistant silicon to prevent any moisture from penetrating the joint.
Also, if using cables in a environment where vibration occurs, when installing the cable, use cable ties to secure cable from any form of vibration.
Then as a maintenance measure, once cables are installed. Routinely check cables and connections for any melting, wear, deterioration or damage.
Jeremy is my favorite! He is a doppelganger of my favorite cousin. Same speech patterns and mannerisms!
Hell I wished he’d do a spot on the channel feel like we could learn a lot from this feller
Great Job Jeremy! Thanks for sharing the knowledge! Will be filing this away for the future
great video jeremy, great info for all who watch, i usually make my own lugs,soldering is the best connection ,godbless
Man! BleepinJeeps got Nate & Jeremy now, its like daily content! good video! I'll be doing it this weekend.. i have the weak saddle type on mine right now
Sean Savage We should make a vid while you're here and send it to them. Bleepin Jeep/Carnfardid Commando edition, heh.
hell yea dude!
make your own channel. your very knowledgable and easy and fun to watch. great job
Cool man ! Go for it. Sure there is plenty knowledge you can share with us. Thanks from Scotland
Great job jermery. Just got a dual battery kit I will be making my own cables for sure.
I'm definitely doing this when I install my amp so I can splice in my extra cable. Great video
Good job. I definitely learned a few things I'll use when I "Add a Battery" to my boat
I appreciate your enthusiasm and your pointing out an important method to avoid future problems. However, if you indeed did use acid core solder, and you did not clean the joint after soldering, the acid will stay in the joint and corrode the copper. Eventually you will get the green crusties inside your fitting.
So, there you go. Above, somebody questioned using acid core solder. Another guy replied, " don't say something is wrong without giving a reason."
Me too, I've never heard of using acid core solder on electrical, for more than 50 years.
I think that has been established here,
I made a milled block to fit all sizes of terminal and rounded the ends of some old punches. Make as good a termination as what you showed and cost me old tools. Hammer them down straight, then one hit back at a 45 to the sheath to set. Thanks for this one.
I love these Jeremy videos!! Hey Jeremy, quick tip, if you melt a little solder on the exposed end of that wire before you even start putting solder in the copper terminal, it will hold all those stragglers together so you don't even have to deal with them afterwards. Then just plunge it into the terminal full of melted solder and do just as you were doing and it should be good to go. Excellent video man. =)
Vinny Gullotta That sounds good..
I was thinking about that. Does the extra solder make the fit too tight? I've done this on a smaller scale (pencil width) and fully tinning the wire can ruin the fit, on the small wires that have alot more wiggle room. Just curious...
It's called tinning and actually a very common practice. Another great video. Now go out to the garage and get to work! 👍
WoOsKii 1 I would say it really depends on how much solder you melt into the cable. If you just lightly tin it, it shouldn't swell very much if at all. With proper heat, the solder will wick into the center of the cable strands and it'll be just enough to hold the strands into one single chunk for easy insertion. Then, when you assemble the terminal and heat it again, the solder of the cable end will melt and the solder I the terminal will wick further into the cable filling in all the gaps all the way to the center of the cable.
@@mannys9130 That's a very good idea! Just a very little tinning on the strands of wire before you insert it into the lug should take care of any straggling wires, and the little tinning will not swell up the wire.
Your production values are good enough for us. The tutorial was fantastic. Thanks for the video.
I really like these videos that Jeremey has been making, he should make more! Great job with the video Jeremy!
You did well for recording by yourself! I'm going to follow your tutorial when I make new cables for the Wife's LJ.
Well done, I agree that it is the best way to build your own cables. Great refresher thank you, Now I'll go over my rig and check all the connections.
Seen your video thank you very much it was easy AND VERY HELPFUL TO comprehend and follow your steps. THE DIFFICULT PART WAS HAVING TO WORK ON IT FOR THE FIRST TIME. MY. POSTIVE CABEL WAS CORRODED AND RUSTED. SO I had to cut the cable wire connected to the battery terminal . I was able to do it thanks too your video . The car turned on first try. It was struggling to turn on . But once I took it for a drive the power came back. I DID TEST THE BAYTERY AT AUTOZONE AND IT HAD A BAD CELL WITCH I will be replacing a new battery .
I was told by an electrician a while back that you shouldn’t use Acid core solder, you should use rosin core for electrical. Other than that it was a very informative video! Great job man!
Great video. Was about to try to replace my cables.
Jeremy you did a great job on the making of this video.
I have always soldered my wires for everything and from what I was taught 50 years ago the flux is what makes the solder suck into a joint or connection... 100% agree with you and I'm the type of guy that would bi×$h if I was hung with a new rope... Hard to please... Great tutorial for someone new to this type of deal...
Great video content and done a darn fine job doing it... And the T's are awesome if you run 2 batteries on your jeep like I do the hot side in parallel... Then just bolt the grounds to the frame... Thumbs ☝
Great video. Good job. I didn’t know the cables were so important but I’m gonna redo all mine now! Thanks
You did such a good job, that I'll be doing that tomorrow. I'm putting a bigger alternator on my '83 cj7 with a 4.3 Chev. I got to make a cable from the battery to the alternator. Maybe a 6 guage wire.
I don't care what anyone says that was a great video and you did it just fine
Nice video Jeremy. Couldn't tell it was your first. That is the same way I do mine and it is nice to see you reaffirm my method. My cables are for marine applications. This way keeps out moisture as well. Thanks!
Hey bro, it's awesome seeing you take over Matt's shop like that - haha. I hope to see you do more videos!
Great Job!
Thank You!
Now, I can make my own cables!
You Rock!
Great video. That is exactly how I have been doing it for 40 years. Except we didn’t have shrink tube back then.
I like that way of connecting a battery cable to the battery. I have been using those other battery connectors and after using one for my trolling motor I thought why not do this method. So they say crimping is better then solder for vibration. I personally like to do both. If it's worth doing it's worth over doing. Your solder looked like it might be am acid based. You want to use an acid free solder. Great video glad to know this method is already in use on off road vehicles. I should have done it for both tractors and the pickup. Like you said super easy to disconnect the cable and sometimes during the slow season it's better to disconnect the batteries to reduce their drain.
Great job Jeremy! I've been doing all my battery cables like this for years. I do all my connections with solder and heat shrink. I hate those little red, blue, and yellow crimp connectors. Every time I've had the taillights on a trailer quit working it's been one of those stupid little crimpits.
I agree but with a small caveat, quality crimps done with the proper tool are very good. Problem is, noone wants to pay 100 bucks for the right tool, let alone finding quality crimps. As for trailer lights in particular, they usually use the frame as a ground, I prefer to run the extra wire and never have issues.
Good informative video, you should do more of these kind of videos. Mat has taught you well. 10/10
U are the man great job and appreciations from Denmark thanks for sharing this with us. U are very positive and great attitude 🙏👍
Great video, very informative, I enjoyed it. Matt should be proud.
I was a little hard on you last time but you did a great job explaining everything this time.
A STAR is born! Well done!
Jeremy you do a fine job explaining and showing how to fix cables so they last.
Do you need to lubricate and clean the connector inside before tightening?
Great first video on your own. I think that you'd be a good teacher for an offroad driving school. I'd like to see you do more videos, kinda like the guys out west.
Great vid, J!
One thing, though...I would strongly suggest NOT using acid core solder for wiring. That stuff is designed to work with somewhat less-than-clean copper pipe and should not be used for wiring as the acid flux can actually eat through the small strands of wire (leaving a green, corroded mess). For wire, you want to use rosin core or, better yet, fluxless (no core) solder paired with a flux paste like you used in the video.
Cheers, dude and keep those vids coming my man!!!!
Great job on the video. I definitely learned something. I'm about to add a winch. I will be doing this.
Great video. I wouldn't change a thing. I really like the spinning metal BleepinJeep logo at the end, nice touch.
This is really practical -- good for so many applications - thanks
Great job Jeremy. Thx for all your info.
Very nice demonstration. Very useful.
Thanks
This video should be titled "How To Make Your Own Battery Cables the Wrong Way". The solder has to meet the copper wire somewhere and it will make a rigid joint. With vibration that is where it will fail. The terminals are flared to allow some wire flex after the terminal has been properly "crimped". Also every strand is important to carry the load the current the gauge is rated at. Never clip off stragglers. The flare is not there to help you insert the wire, rather it is there to prevent damage due to vibration and when flexing the completed joint.
This guy should take over the channel
Great job for your first self video
You do you boo boo, keep em comin! Having some trouble with my battery connection right now so I kinda needed this
Great job on the video! It was educational and timely! I was planning on doing my own wiring today!
Great video, I even add a little stuff called scotchkote over the heat shrink. Looks ugly but adds another layer of protection!!
Great video and very informative. Thanks for sharing!
This is just what i needed right now. Killer video bud.
Good job! You're a natural in front of the camera.
Great job Jeremy. Informative and straight forward. Good content.
Voilà!. You did it. First video, well done, i hope it is not the last.
Rosin Core for electrical, acid core for plumbing. Use one of the small hose clamps to hold your stranded cable together so it can be inserted into the lug. Remove the clamp after the wire is in the lug then heat it up and push it the rest of the way in.
More of your indeepth videos Jeremy! Thre best ones!
Emery cloth to clean the fittings before you flux the fitting also helps along with having it hot enough I say this cause I solder copper every day using different types of solder
Good job on the video. Thanks for posting. Pretty much the way I was taught many years ago. Back when we used LEAD baby. Take care
C'mon dude, dont underestimate yourself. great vid. Matt was busy at Bantam!!
I think your video was great. It is good quality with audio as well. I have zero soldering experience. And you explained it Barney style so even I can understand. The only problem I could see. Is it's a long video. Normally I look for the shortest video. But I had time today. Thanks for making it. And happy turkey day
that's just how I create my terminals, never had a failure with one yet. great job keep up the good work. Jeremy you did an excellent tutorial.
Thanks man, good job! Bulletproof AF
awesome job Jeremy ! love the production skills , more like this soon !!
Thank you. I am going to extend cables for my trolling motor and will terminate them using this method. Appreciate the video. Great help.
Not sure if your aware but high end heat shrink will have glue on the inside that melts when you heat it. This insure an actual seal and is superior in pretty much every way to non glue that they sell at regular auto stores! Working at a wire harness shop has its benefits, we never use anything but the glue shrink.
Connor Doll yep..
Good job Jeremy
You did great Jeremy. Thanks for the informative content.
When test fitting the cable you can solder the cable to make it solid and if it doesn't fit you can use a file on it instead of dealing with wire strands.
Great job man, seem like a super cool guy. I owe you a beer!
jjthesavage Heck Yeah!! Sounds Good Haha!
Agree! Jeremy's got some great tips
bravo again jeremy!!! that was a great video!!!
great job Jeremy. be nice to see some more of that scrambler
Really helpful video. Made me a new subscriber. Thanks!
I've not personally had it, but a lot of guys I know say that any kind of imperfect connection caused by things like inadequate connection surface or even simply a terminal coming loose can generate a lot of resistance and thus heat, so they say relying solely on a soldered connection is dangerous as this heat can potentially melt the solder.
As a precaution, they often hit the lug with a center punch and hammer to create an indent just as a mechanical reassurance
Very good instructions I enjoyed the show, let's see some more. 😊
Great video, very educational. You should do more videos and post them.
Good video buddy learned something new today was looking how to ghetto crimp or whatever didn't have any crimpers and definitely am waiting and just doing it this way sometimes its better to just wait lol 👍