How To Replace Water Pump [Chevrolet Cruze 2011-2016 1.8L 1st Gen]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 มี.ค. 2021
- 🔴 In this video I will show you the procedure to change out your leaking water pump on your 1st Generation 2011-2016 Chevrolet Cruze with the 1.8L engine. After 100 000 Km, these water pump tend to start leaking coolant for the middle and therefore it's time to change them.
🔩 Tools and Parts List Below! :
🔸Basic Socket Set amzn.to/3aUtPwk
🔸Impact Socket Set amzn.to/2LBwQJn
🔸Cordless Ratchet amzn.to/3tCIpRI
🔸DeWalt Impact Wrench amzn.to/3aUefAK
🔸3/8” Ratchet amzn.to/36YOJJQ
🔸Deep E socket set amzn.to/3eJQWx5
🔸E-Socket Set amzn.to/3qQqtk3
🔸Stubby Torx Bit Set amzn.to/3fxInWX
Parts:
🔹GM Coolant/ Antifreeze amzn.to/3p9Xoiy
🔹OEM Water Pump amzn.to/3u04VTX
🔹Gates Aftermarket Water Pump amzn.to/39l5srD - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![How To Replace Oil Cooler Assembly [ Chevrolet Cruze/Sonic/Holden Barina 1.8L 1st Gen 2011-16 ]](/img/n.gif)
great video! I cheated and used the L shaped T45 wrench so you dont need to remove airbox or motor mount bolts, saves a little time, even if you have to get a $12 set of T wrenches to get the T45
Haha nice! great tip for sure!
You have a link for them?
Link?
@@Unknown-fe5qt www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Wrench-T10-T50-9-Piece-25291/dp/B00I5THF9M/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3AVAG6OF670OW&keywords=torx+key+set&qid=1636304725&sprefix=torx+key%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-5
@@gearedupproduction8290 www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Wrench-T10-T50-9-Piece-25291/dp/B00I5THF9M/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3AVAG6OF670OW&keywords=torx+key+set&qid=1636304725&sprefix=torx+key%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-5
Nice. Went to Home Depot, bought a set of Torx L shaped wrenches to do the job. Started last night removing everything and setting in the new water pump. This morning I put back the belt and finished it off. Thank you for the awesome content!
Great video, makes it easy even for a moron like me! Thanks bro!!
Fantastic video! 2013 Cruze 1.8L. 97,000 miles. Found my coolant leak at the water pump shaft. This video was super helpful. I didn’t have to remove the air box though. Thank you for making this tutorial!!!
What did you use for pulley bolts
this video saved my ass sir. I have the exact same car. Lifesaver.
A tip is to replace this water pump at the same time you replace the thermostat housing and the oil cooler. That way you don't waste coolant so many times :) Thanks OneTrickTech.
might as well with a chevy cruze. you'll need to replace them all at some point 😂
Start to finished including bleeding. Good instructions & video.
Very well done. To the point. Thank you.
tank you very much its the best video explain simple effectiv
Thank you man you save my time 😊
Excelente muy buena Información, saludos desde Sonora México *Like !!!*
I wonder if a low profile T45 bit will help not need to remove engine mount/raise engine
I had my pump chngd wit my belt cuz they came together 2 in 1,but great pacific video 💙👍
Great videos. Thanks!
Again vary good. Thank you
Great video ! Thankyou
My Cruze which badged Holden here in Australia. Has a double pulley. As one goes to power steering pump. Cheers
Amazing
good rod on tensioner have you link ? Where i can buy this on 19mm
once again, another GREAT tutorial!!!! do you have a video on how to replace the heater core???? Thanks
Unfortunately no
what momemnt on three screws on warer pump
Great video. Thanks man. No f en around.
My neighbors car water pump is making a rattling noise, probably a bearing. Would this be the only thing that would need replaced or would the housing need replaced?
there is also the pulley you can check if its still in good shape sometimes they bend out of shape
Recently purchased 2012 Chevy Cruze with the 1.8L engine through CARVANA. Water pump leaking at 87877 miles. This car has had the thermostat teplaced on it before according to the CARFAX report.
Thicker gasket due to compression after being installed. If you run engine to temp and remove new pump you will see that it's wider as well. Gates pumps are comparable to oem AC Delco parts.
Do you think this would cause the lower radiator hose to leak. I have a 2015 cruze 1.8, keeps leaking from lower radiator hose( with sensor), but doesn’t always do it. It looks like it’s leaking from lower hose but after watching this, i’m not so sure. 67k miles
maybe your leak is caused by the hose being cracked or the clamp loosing strength. Unless the water pump is leaking onto the radiator hose, usually they are separate issues. Hope the helps!
most of those hoses use a spring clamp which as @OneTrickTech stated can lose strength. you could try simply replacing it with a screw clamp type hose clamp, or gear type. not sure what they call them we just call them hose clamps here lol. if it is a cracked hose it might be a good idea to replace that spring clamp with a screw clamp when replacing the hose anyways to ensure you always have optimum clamping force on the hose.
@@OneTrickTech Thanks, appreciate the help
@@briancollins2693 thanks, appreciate the help
My check engine light came on after doing all this? Any guesses where I messed up?
I can only think of the mass air flow sensor since that's the only thing I disconnected in the video. also make sure all the hoses are well secured on the intake box because that could cause a vacuum leak and a misfire check engine light. Its possible that it could not be related at all with the job you just did.
Chevrolet has a warranty type thing with leaking coolant from the water pump. As long as the car is under 150,000 miles and under 10 years old. Just had this fixed for free instead of the $800 I was quoted for.
Damn, I just got 153000 miles on my 2015 haha
What type of engine do you have? 1.4L or 1.8L
Sir this pumps Fit Chevrolet Cruze Model 2010
yes but for the 1,8L engine only
Any tips or tricks on how to get that last bolt out to release the air pockets? They stripped mine when they replaced the radiator and I am beyond struggling to get it off
There's an easier way to bleed the cooling system. These are cap less systems so the can self bleed. Just fill the coolant to the right level and rev the engine to 2.5k rpm for about 5-7min while max heat is on. That should get rid of all air bubbles and you should be good to go.
What happens if there’s no heat when I am doing this?
Nevermind I don’t think i revved it enough. I have heat now! However the fan hasn’t kicked off for over 10 minutes now.. not sure if I should be concerned or not. The temp gauge on the engine is good. I have heat. Just been waiting on that fan to kick off
Yeah it takes a while for the fan to come on if you're only idling. I'd say go for a drive city and highway and come to an idle and the fan should come on and off every few minutes. Make sure temp gauge does not overheat.
I have a question…at what point you close the bleeder valve?
when a bit of coolant starts to come out.
How did the Gates gasket hold up?
not good, leaked after a year. All the aftermarket water pumps have the same thin gasket. I just took it off an added a bit of black RTV to help seal. Its good now.
Thank you so much for the advice
After I replaced my water pump I noticed a knocking noise coming from the new part could it be a bad part?
Very possible. Try and removed the part and spin it by hand to see for any abnormal noises
My 2012 gets to operating temp and the fan comes on but it doesn't shut off unless the car is off or I turn the heat on and the temps fall a little bit. Also, when i get on the highway, the temperature gets to 230-240ºF no overheating on the dash but when it gets to 240ºF I usually pull off the highway and turn the heat up all the way, I'm running an aftermarket temp gauge so I can see actual numbers. Is this normal or is there something wrong with my cooling system? Maybe a bad water pump or air in the system, i'm getting heat just fine though, maybe a blocked radiator? The pump isn't leaking but maybe it's tired? i have 126K miles on mine. These temps are concerning for sure.
No check engine or flashing check engine while that happens? Could be a blocked radiator from the symptoms you explained. Does the fan go on and off while idling?
@@OneTrickTech No engine lights or anything on the dash. The fan will come on at low speed once it gets to temp but even if i'm idling it wont toggle off and the temp stays at 220-225 even with the fan on it doesn't go below that temp, so the fan never turns off. Unless I turn the heater on the fan will turn off usually within a few min. It seems to stay in that range for the most part in low speed/traffic situations. Once I get on the freeway and get up to speed with a few min it reaches 230 and if i keep driving it, it eventually gets to 240 don't know what happens after that as I usually pull off and let it cool down again.The fan at that point is running super high speed. the car has always had a 50/50 mix, it's hard to imagine that the radiator is rusted or clogged. Also the fan never used to stay on like how it does now. It would come on and within a few min, it would go off.
Something is disturbing the flow of coolant, your initial idea was right. A bad water pump could be the issues, if the fins on the propeller are completely gone then it can't move the coolant around. Assuming your coolant level is good, try revving the engine at 2500 while parked for 5mins, and see if it does the same thing as it would if you were on the highway.
@@OneTrickTech I did a little more testing, the problem isn't as a bad when I'm revving at idle. I hooked up the scanner to it and when there is more load on the engine (revving) at idle the temp goes up a few degrees, but ultimately ends up going back down. I'm guessing that's the electronically assisted thermostat adjusting to the load. Prob needs a new radiator. I'll throw a new pump on first. See if that makes a difference since it's cheaper and easier to do. Even if it's not the cause of the problem a new one wouldn't hurt. Did you drain the coolant or just top it up?
I just topped it up. If you drain the coolant from the radiator, it makes less of a mess when removing the water pump.
You don't need to take off the notor mounts only for the 1.4 with the turbo you have to take off the motor mounts don't take off the motor mounts if you have a 1.8 ls chevy cruze 06-16
I've seen other replacement videos and they show a different kind of water pump. A longer one.
depends , if you have 1.5 or 1.8 engine .
You probably have the 1.4 with the turbo when I went and got my water pump that's the one they gave me and long story short thank God I don't have the 1.4
Thanks. Not as daunting as a camshaft belt. I don't think Gates is too shabby for a water pump. Not worth getting an el cheapo water pump when it takes so much effort to replace it. Maybe the Gates is a better seal than the OEM.
Did u use jack stands
nope
Just over 11K miles and the water pump needs to be replaced? Wow.
not 11k miles its was close to 110 000 Km (69,000 miles)
But why not just remove the belt for the pulley bolts? it has to come off anyways
its to keep the tension on the pulley until you crack the bolts loose
So you can undo the pulley bolts like you loosen wheel nuts before you jack the wheel up otherwise the pulley would just spin
Nice vid boss!