Correct me if I'm wrong, but X backer should be on the opposite side to the linear rail (rear) to compensate extrusion thermal expansion, not on not top. Y backers are fine because rails are at the bottom of the extrusions. Great build anyways
The GitHub guide suggests installing the backer on the opposite side of the LM rail, but if install it on the back of the X frame,it will lose the maximum Y axis size by the thickness of the backer, and there will be a slight ringing(vfa's) when accelerating and decelerating the Y axis. However, if install it on the top of the X frame, it can solve both of these problems, and i haven't found any thermal expansion issues after almost 2 years of use. : )
Amazing setup! do you mind sharing what are you using for the SB mount? I recently moved to a CNC toolhead mount which supports beacon but I'm not too happy with my input shaping results so I'm looking for alternatives
hello ❤🎉 It is very wonderful🥹 How did you make this printer? Please make a video of the construction and the necessary materials and the construction and configuration files so that I can make one for myself, I really wish to be able to make one because I can't buy a complete one. please
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1pGCZkHHCp0rXegL11-knWqRvWkSH5ctV?usp=sharing The input shaper graph only needs to refer to this and not the values in that graph, and zero vfa's are being realized through manually calibrated input shaper data values.
@@devgru07 Could you go into more detail about this? Also thought that the recommended accel from the resonance graphs was a *hardish* limit. Wondering cause my graphs look pretty similar and I wanna print at 35k accel :(
@@milodudeful Simply, the 35K acceleration test is a final check for gantry assembly status and belt tension. It's just a very stupid stage truman show if you want high speed print. i think it will bring that faulty eveytime and most everybody gotta faulty when print with high speed even if more powerful cooling fan and high flow.
@@devgru07 Ahhh thats a lil disappointing. Was hoping to pump some more speed out of my 350, but im still waiting for the github with all the mods just for the reduction in noise.
usongshine 40-48(1.8 degree) 24v motors x 4 (actually 40mm height was it good enough 250, 300, 350 build) and installed both psu same size (not uhp) as your question.
sorry im so late to comment... in case you read this - may i ask how you got it so quiet ? im also chasing speed right now but it shakes quite wildly therefore generating noise already at 600mm/s and 20k infill
Awrsome. Do you have a list with the mods done to your voron? Seems like a very well build and modded maschine. 😊 CRAP, Knomi and CAN are pretty obvious. :D
How about such speeds not on the first layer, but at a model height of 15-20 centimeters above the table? And at the same time with an assessment of the quality of the printed part.
wow.. your mods are great... I want to do something similar with CPAP... canbus and ystop... are those mods created by you or do you have a link to get them?? Greetings and congratulations for your work..
actually as you may know, abs+ has a huge advantage over abs or pla for high speed printing, which is why the first layer can stick well at high printing speeds as shown in the video Of course, the PEI sheet must always be clean, and we are using a beacon probe that does not require first layer calibration, so I think this is definitely a huge advantage for high speed printing compared to the past!
@@devgru07 Okay, maybe i didn't realize the benefit of ABS+ in this regard. I keep my PEI clean and have fairly accurate mesh, though not becan level. Ill have to try the ABS+. Thanks for the reply.
@@devgru07 I mostly only print ABS on my Voron. But not ABS+. I really have had trouble getting it to stick past 110-120mm^2. Ill have to see what I can do with Esun ABS+. can I ask what temp are you using for the bed and nozzle there?
@@ThePhilbox typically uses a nozzle temperature of 250 degrees for dragon hf and 270 degrees for rapido UHF v2.0, with a heater bed around 100 degrees! and must be set Extrusion Multiplier value for 0.91
@@devgru07 amazing! Man you just tipped me over the edge on building a Voron. My girlfriend is pretty noise sensitive, so I was worried it would be too loud, but this would work great.
@@evanbarnes9984 just using down below- part.1 for 24v : LDO 2004AC 1.8 degree and BTT TMC 2209 -> onver 150mm/s speed and 2000 accel value for first layer will be work with silent. part.2 for 48v : LDO 42STH48 2804AH-R 1.8 degree + BTT EZ5160RGB + EZ drive converter(if you don't using Octopus Max EZ MCU) + 48v 350w smps -> over 150 ~ 250mm/s speed and 2000 accel will be work with silent have g'luck!!!
Wow that's incredibly quick and quiet. Impressive build.
thanks a lot!
How in the actual WORLD are the DOG PAWS louder than that 3d printer
😂😂😂😂
아이 소리 들어보니 한국인이신가.. 어제 막 온 T1 프로 모터소음에 고통받는 중인데 이건 어케 이리 조용한지 부럽습니다..
Beautiful:) that's the way of the vorons
thanks a lot!!!
Any tips on reducing the noise of a Voron that you wouldn’t mind sharing? Such a nice build!
Better insulation, stealthchop modifications resonance compensation stock fan speed for electronics compartment: 35%-40%
A+ thumbnail. "Voron 2.4 silenced by NUT"
Correct me if I'm wrong, but X backer should be on the opposite side to the linear rail (rear) to compensate extrusion thermal expansion, not on not top. Y backers are fine because rails are at the bottom of the extrusions.
Great build anyways
The GitHub guide suggests installing the backer on the opposite side of the LM rail, but if install it on the back of the X frame,it will lose the maximum Y axis size by the thickness of the backer, and there will be a slight ringing(vfa's) when accelerating and decelerating the Y axis. However, if install it on the top of the X frame, it can solve both of these problems, and i haven't found any thermal expansion issues after almost 2 years of use. : )
@@devgru07 good to know, thanks. Are yours titanium or steel?
@@tlecter it's titanium one :D
Amazing setup! do you mind sharing what are you using for the SB mount? I recently moved to a CNC toolhead mount which supports beacon but I'm not too happy with my input shaping results so I'm looking for alternatives
What brand is this cnc mount you talking about? Ty
hello ❤🎉
It is very wonderful🥹
How did you make this printer?
Please make a video of the construction and the necessary materials and the construction and configuration files so that I can make one for myself, I really wish to be able to make one because I can't buy a complete one.
please
Wow good job. Is it possible to get your printer.cfg please?
How did you accomadate the CPAP? Did you have to modifiy the stealthburner?
I would be keen to see your inpurt shaper graphs for this.
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1pGCZkHHCp0rXegL11-knWqRvWkSH5ctV?usp=sharing
The input shaper graph only needs to refer to this and not the values in that graph, and zero vfa's are being realized through manually calibrated input shaper data values.
@@devgru07 Could you go into more detail about this? Also thought that the recommended accel from the resonance graphs was a *hardish* limit. Wondering cause my graphs look pretty similar and I wanna print at 35k accel :(
@@milodudeful Simply, the 35K acceleration test is a final check for gantry assembly status and belt tension. It's just a very stupid stage truman show if you want high speed print. i think it will bring that faulty eveytime and most everybody gotta faulty when print with high speed even if more powerful cooling fan and high flow.
@@devgru07 Ahhh thats a lil disappointing. Was hoping to pump some more speed out of my 350, but im still waiting for the github with all the mods just for the reduction in noise.
XY axis motors LDO 42STH48 2804AH-R 1.8, what motors are you using for Z? Do you have 2 x PSU one 48v and one 24v?
usongshine 40-48(1.8 degree) 24v motors x 4 (actually 40mm height was it good enough 250, 300, 350 build) and installed both psu same size (not uhp) as your question.
The filament being used is ABS, I assume?
Whats the build specs in this ? Do u have a discord ..?
sorry im so late to comment... in case you read this - may i ask how you got it so quiet ? im also chasing speed right now but it shakes quite wildly therefore generating noise already at 600mm/s and 20k infill
what kind of motor driver and motor spec?
@@devgru07 drivers are mellow external 5160's and motors are moons steppers long shaft for my awd - should be MS17HD6P4200
VORON 2.4 SILENCED BY NUT
Awrsome. Do you have a list with the mods done to your voron? Seems like a very well build and modded maschine. 😊 CRAP, Knomi and CAN are pretty obvious. :D
not yet but i will upload my github when i set everything it was!
Can you link to your github so I can checkout what I need to make a build like this🤤
How about such speeds not on the first layer, but at a model height of 15-20 centimeters above the table? And at the same time with an assessment of the quality of the printed part.
Lol yea it probably won't look good
@@clutchboi4038 아니야 좋아, 이 사람은 이미 한국의 3D프린터 커뮤니티에 이 영상 외에도 더 많은 영상과 자신의 고속 프린터의 성능과 좋은 결과물을 인증 하였어
wow.. your mods are great... I want to do something similar with CPAP... canbus and ystop... are those mods created by you or do you have a link to get them?? Greetings and congratulations for your work..
not yet but i will upload my github as soon!
@@devgru07 I will look forward to it...congratulations on your work.
@@devgru07yes plz do I'd love to keep my knomi but still use cpap.
What's the trick to getting first layer to stick at that speed? anything over 110mm^2 I can get ABS to stick. It just starts balling up.
actually as you may know, abs+ has a huge advantage over abs or pla for high speed printing, which is why the first layer can stick well at high printing speeds as shown in the video Of course, the PEI sheet must always be clean, and we are using a beacon probe that does not require first layer calibration, so I think this is definitely a huge advantage for high speed printing compared to the past!
@@devgru07 Okay, maybe i didn't realize the benefit of ABS+ in this regard. I keep my PEI clean and have fairly accurate mesh, though not becan level. Ill have to try the ABS+. Thanks for the reply.
@@ThePhilbox no need to strong than PLA+ part cooling power when printing ABS+ (20 to 60% was perfectly even though high speed)
@@devgru07 I mostly only print ABS on my Voron. But not ABS+. I really have had trouble getting it to stick past 110-120mm^2. Ill have to see what I can do with Esun ABS+. can I ask what temp are you using for the bed and nozzle there?
@@ThePhilbox typically uses a nozzle temperature of 250 degrees for dragon hf and 270 degrees for rapido UHF v2.0, with a heater bed around 100 degrees! and must be set Extrusion Multiplier value for 0.91
Are you using any special filament for high speed?
i'm using esun abs+ : )
Now print a big part that will actually use those accels and speeds
Hah, I love the cat ears.
Definitely love how fast and quiet. What kind of motors and stepper drivers ?
i'm using LDO 42STH48-2804AH-R with EZ5160RGB driver : )
@@devgru07 nice! Are you running 24v or 48v? On them.
@@michaelsalomone4162 48v 350w @ each of 2.4Ah
@@devgru07 do the 5160 have better algorithms to be quiet compared to TMC 2209 or is it the increased voltage?
Could you please put the printer configuration printer .cfg
Do u mind sharing ur Motor COnfig?
i think this is a quitest assembly i saw.
i need the same assembly XD
Is this seriously using stepper motors? I figured it had to be brushless servos to be that quiet
yap stepper motor that was LDO 42STH48 2804 AH-R
@@devgru07 amazing! Man you just tipped me over the edge on building a Voron. My girlfriend is pretty noise sensitive, so I was worried it would be too loud, but this would work great.
@@evanbarnes9984 just using down below-
part.1 for 24v : LDO 2004AC 1.8 degree and BTT TMC 2209 -> onver 150mm/s speed and 2000 accel value for first layer will be work with silent.
part.2 for 48v : LDO 42STH48 2804AH-R 1.8 degree + BTT EZ5160RGB + EZ drive converter(if you don't using Octopus Max EZ MCU) + 48v 350w smps -> over 150 ~ 250mm/s speed and 2000 accel will be work with silent
have g'luck!!!
is stealthchop turned on?
Nice an Meowburner
Is it actually achieving full speed?
I'm still building mine for over a year >_< Wish someone would buy it off me
Loooove!
this is so fucking quiet, and so fast. O_O
Still no github link when will it come i really wanna replicate this build🤌🏼
really good speed but the acell is quite low for it
that was quiet bad quality every high speed printer. : )
connection diagram please