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NUTYPE
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 10 พ.ย. 2015
Kurvin. Kim (Developer, UI/X Designer)
ERCF AutoRewinder
I used the Filamentalist MOD shared on printables.com to inject the filament from the front like a bamboo AMS, but I redesigned it as follows using the step files provided.
1. the nylon nut shape was changed to a circular shape because the filament tensioner spring could not be inserted, so a spacer was modelled as a way to tighten the nut, and then printed out to make the tensioner work properly.
2. the black part of the ECAS pneumatic fitting should be used without disassembling it, so that the PTFE tube can be securely fixed. In the future, we will change to threads so that M4 fittings can be used instead of ECAS fittings (M4 fittings have a tighter clamping force than ECAS fittings).
3. Since the beginning of ERCF production, GEAR Motor is using OMC (SteperOnline) 1.8 degree 48mm 2A, and only used 0.8A for measuring the distance from ERCF to Stealth Burner Extruider Gear, and then used 1.8A, and there is no torque shortage when loading and unloading the filament.
4. ERCF filament cutting is still using the same method that minimises unnecessary movement and is more compact than other cutting methods, as shown in the previous video.
5. Damn!!! Happy-Hare updates are a mess, especially inconsistent variable changes that make me hesitate to update, so consistent updates like the Voron-design team should be continued so that TRADRACK, ERCF, etc. are easier and more convenient multi-filament replacement tools than devices like Bamboo AMS.
6.Unidirectional clutch bearings can be printed with ABS+ etc. instead of buying ready-made ones.
that's it all. just you gonna keep head up and cross fingers!
Download files below:
www.printables.com/model/1093126-filamentalist-mods-with-reinforcement
Community
open.kakao.com/o/gkeE7xLd
#voron #ERCF #filamentalist #3dprinting #MOD
1. the nylon nut shape was changed to a circular shape because the filament tensioner spring could not be inserted, so a spacer was modelled as a way to tighten the nut, and then printed out to make the tensioner work properly.
2. the black part of the ECAS pneumatic fitting should be used without disassembling it, so that the PTFE tube can be securely fixed. In the future, we will change to threads so that M4 fittings can be used instead of ECAS fittings (M4 fittings have a tighter clamping force than ECAS fittings).
3. Since the beginning of ERCF production, GEAR Motor is using OMC (SteperOnline) 1.8 degree 48mm 2A, and only used 0.8A for measuring the distance from ERCF to Stealth Burner Extruider Gear, and then used 1.8A, and there is no torque shortage when loading and unloading the filament.
4. ERCF filament cutting is still using the same method that minimises unnecessary movement and is more compact than other cutting methods, as shown in the previous video.
5. Damn!!! Happy-Hare updates are a mess, especially inconsistent variable changes that make me hesitate to update, so consistent updates like the Voron-design team should be continued so that TRADRACK, ERCF, etc. are easier and more convenient multi-filament replacement tools than devices like Bamboo AMS.
6.Unidirectional clutch bearings can be printed with ABS+ etc. instead of buying ready-made ones.
that's it all. just you gonna keep head up and cross fingers!
Download files below:
www.printables.com/model/1093126-filamentalist-mods-with-reinforcement
Community
open.kakao.com/o/gkeE7xLd
#voron #ERCF #filamentalist #3dprinting #MOD
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I used the Filamentalist MOD shared on printables.com to inject the filament from the front like a bamboo AMS, but I redesigned it as follows using the step files provided. 1. the nylon nut shape was changed to a circular shape because the filament tensioner spring could not be inserted, so a spacer was modelled as a way to tighten the nut, and then printed out to make the tensioner work proper...
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this is so fucking quiet, and so fast. O_O
I don t find your github can you point to your doc, verry impressive
Nice man
thanks bro~!
god, what a beauty, is this sitting on top of that silent voron?
nearby there ( :D ) this is on the 350 build (silent voron was 300 build)
@devgru07 so you have not one but two voron! darn I really wish to make one but price for trident kit seems really out of place in s.korea rn sadly
@@jupiterbjy There's absolutely no reason to be sad, my friend. I know it can be tricky finding the right kit at the right price, so I just wanted to let you know that you can get it cheaper and without customs duties if you buy it as individual parts. I'd especially recommend the AL6 heater bed (such as Dongjin Aluminium) or MISUMI PROFILE (Korea branch), which are sold at some retailers in South Korea. You can build a printer for much cheaper than AliExpress/Taobao, so it's definitely worth looking into! However, I've found that the hotend, thermistor, mcu, ez5160rgb, ez2209, omron ssr, meanwell uhp 48v 350w, 24v 200w are definitely cheaper than what Aliexpress and Taobao buy from South Korea. I hope this helps!
@@devgru07 Wow didnt know local company had option for this cheap custom orders, AL6061 to 300 x 300 and DNF3030 of.. well maybe I should restrain myself and go standard trident design first. Thanks for tip! I do have old rpi 3B+ lying around so this could save another few bucks, but since none of my printers (T1 pro, KP3S Pro v1) can print ABS, that could cost me extra. Guess I should look for some local print farms for thess.. and make my own BOM at end of this month, urgent company works should be over at then.
I used the Filamentalist MOD shared on printables.com to inject the filament from the front like a bamboo AMS, but I redesigned it as follows using the step files provided. 1. the nylon nut shape was changed to a circular shape because the filament tensioner spring could not be inserted, so a spacer was modelled as a way to tighten the nut, and then printed out to make the tensioner work properly. 2. the black part of the ECAS pneumatic fitting should be used without disassembling it, so that the PTFE tube can be securely fixed. In the future, we will change to threads so that M4 fittings can be used instead of ECAS fittings (M4 fittings have a tighter clamping force than ECAS fittings). 3. Since the beginning of ERCF production, GEAR Motor is using OMC (SteperOnline) 1.8 degree 48mm 2A, and only used 0.8A for measuring the distance from ERCF to Stealth Burner Extruider Gear, and then used 1.8A, and there is no torque shortage when loading and unloading the filament. 4. ERCF filament cutting is still using the same method that minimises unnecessary movement and is more compact than other cutting methods, as shown in the previous video. 5. Damn!!! Happy-Hare updates are a mess, especially inconsistent variable changes that make me hesitate to update, so consistent updates like the Voron-design team should be continued so that TRADRACK, ERCF, etc. are easier and more convenient multi-filament replacement tools than devices like Bamboo AMS. 6.Unidirectional clutch bearings can be printed with ABS+ etc. instead of buying ready-made ones. that's it all. just you gonna keep head up and cross fingers! References Origin github.com/Enraged-Rabbit-Com... MOD www.printables.com/model/9057... Community open.kakao.com/o/gkeE7xLd
아이 소리 들어보니 한국인이신가.. 어제 막 온 T1 프로 모터소음에 고통받는 중인데 이건 어케 이리 조용한지 부럽습니다..
Which cpap mod is that?
from my one with fusion 360 because of this SB cover for Rapido UHF supported.
A+ thumbnail. "Voron 2.4 silenced by NUT"
I'm still building mine for over a year >_< Wish someone would buy it off me
Nice an Meowburner
i think this is a quitest assembly i saw. i need the same assembly XD
hello ❤🎉 It is very wonderful🥹 How did you make this printer? Please make a video of the construction and the necessary materials and the construction and configuration files so that I can make one for myself, I really wish to be able to make one because I can't buy a complete one. please
is stealthchop turned on?
VORON 2.4 SILENCED BY NUT
Very nice work👌🏼👌🏼👍🏻👍🏻 please create a blue Knomi V2 custom theme/ firmware
Any tips on reducing the noise of a Voron that you wouldn’t mind sharing? Such a nice build!
Better insulation, stealthchop modifications resonance compensation stock fan speed for electronics compartment: 35%-40%
Now print a big part that will actually use those accels and speeds
Is it a replacement for Filametrix lever?
Wow, now that is a nice setup
Hah, I love the cat ears.
Hello! can you build the knomi v2 firmware and post the bin file? I have problems with Vs code! when I build and flash the black screen and the end!
The filament being used is ABS, I assume?
How in the actual WORLD are the DOG PAWS louder than that 3d printer
😂😂😂😂
Still no github link when will it come i really wanna replicate this build🤌🏼
Hello @devgru07 , I just got my hands on the KNOMI V2 today. I really the theme you displayed in this video. I really liked the cat :) and also liked the temp scroll wheel. Could you please share the github details or any tutorial on how I can install it on my KNOMI V2?? Thanks in advance :)
Amazing setup! do you mind sharing what are you using for the SB mount? I recently moved to a CNC toolhead mount which supports beacon but I'm not too happy with my input shaping results so I'm looking for alternatives
What brand is this cnc mount you talking about? Ty
Wow good job. Is it possible to get your printer.cfg please?
Is it actually achieving full speed?
That really cool. Please make it more better! You can)))
Siiiiiick🎉
thats extremely cool, keep up the great work
I subscribed your youTube channel is also very interesting!!! and i keep head up til the nxt things! lol
@@devgru07 Oh thank you, means alot to me... my content aint even that good yet but i am working on that and also got many projects planned... Yeah for sure ! xD
@@3DWolfEngineering i'm looking forward to seeing the results of water cooling that AWD motor system!! :D !
@@devgru07 cant wait myself, hoping it doesnt disappoint :D hopefully i soon have time to work on it (already delayed by over half a year 😬) and main boost for the AWD is belt tension...i broke my tensioners and my belt isnt properly tensioned at all so i get multiple spikes on the Input shaping graph 😅 also looking forward to your future epic projects sadly havent played with lights and knomi yet but seeing your work with it i should definitely do so xD ... - do you by chance have discord ? to exchange some mods and stuff ?
@@3DWolfEngineering hhahahahah no worries i never gonna steal something from you : D have good luck and fun!!
XY axis motors LDO 42STH48 2804AH-R 1.8, what motors are you using for Z? Do you have 2 x PSU one 48v and one 24v?
usongshine 40-48(1.8 degree) 24v motors x 4 (actually 40mm height was it good enough 250, 300, 350 build) and installed both psu same size (not uhp) as your question.
Whats the build specs in this ? Do u have a discord ..?
Jeeze
yea~h~~~ ieeeeeee :D
Couldn’t you have a splitter right by the extruder intake on a direct drive so you can switch filaments in a few cm instead of a meter and having the spool backup. It’s a little more weight be seems like it would be more worth than all that rewinding. Plus is there more chances of the hotend clogging from pulling it in and out so much. What the benifit to this design than a splitter
sure this is perfectly work than other mods, and no problem spend half year over (24/7 working)
I want cat ear in my vz
Loooove!
How about such speeds not on the first layer, but at a model height of 15-20 centimeters above the table? And at the same time with an assessment of the quality of the printed part.
Lol yea it probably won't look good
@@clutchboi4038 아니야 좋아, 이 사람은 이미 한국의 3D프린터 커뮤니티에 이 영상 외에도 더 많은 영상과 자신의 고속 프린터의 성능과 좋은 결과물을 인증 하였어
How did you accomadate the CPAP? Did you have to modifiy the stealthburner?
Do u mind sharing ur Motor COnfig?
sorry im so late to comment... in case you read this - may i ask how you got it so quiet ? im also chasing speed right now but it shakes quite wildly therefore generating noise already at 600mm/s and 20k infill
what kind of motor driver and motor spec?
@@devgru07 drivers are mellow external 5160's and motors are moons steppers long shaft for my awd - should be MS17HD6P4200
really good speed but the acell is quite low for it
that was quiet bad quality every high speed printer. : )
What's the trick to getting first layer to stick at that speed? anything over 110mm^2 I can get ABS to stick. It just starts balling up.
actually as you may know, abs+ has a huge advantage over abs or pla for high speed printing, which is why the first layer can stick well at high printing speeds as shown in the video Of course, the PEI sheet must always be clean, and we are using a beacon probe that does not require first layer calibration, so I think this is definitely a huge advantage for high speed printing compared to the past!
@@devgru07 Okay, maybe i didn't realize the benefit of ABS+ in this regard. I keep my PEI clean and have fairly accurate mesh, though not becan level. Ill have to try the ABS+. Thanks for the reply.
@@ThePhilbox no need to strong than PLA+ part cooling power when printing ABS+ (20 to 60% was perfectly even though high speed)
@@devgru07 I mostly only print ABS on my Voron. But not ABS+. I really have had trouble getting it to stick past 110-120mm^2. Ill have to see what I can do with Esun ABS+. can I ask what temp are you using for the bed and nozzle there?
@@ThePhilbox typically uses a nozzle temperature of 250 degrees for dragon hf and 270 degrees for rapido UHF v2.0, with a heater bed around 100 degrees! and must be set Extrusion Multiplier value for 0.91
Definitely love how fast and quiet. What kind of motors and stepper drivers ?
i'm using LDO 42STH48-2804AH-R with EZ5160RGB driver : )
@@devgru07 nice! Are you running 24v or 48v? On them.
@@michaelsalomone4162 48v 350w @ each of 2.4Ah
@@devgru07 do the 5160 have better algorithms to be quiet compared to TMC 2209 or is it the increased voltage?
wow.. your mods are great... I want to do something similar with CPAP... canbus and ystop... are those mods created by you or do you have a link to get them?? Greetings and congratulations for your work..
not yet but i will upload my github as soon!
@@devgru07 I will look forward to it...congratulations on your work.
@@devgru07yes plz do I'd love to keep my knomi but still use cpap.
Awrsome. Do you have a list with the mods done to your voron? Seems like a very well build and modded maschine. 😊 CRAP, Knomi and CAN are pretty obvious. :D
not yet but i will upload my github when i set everything it was!
Can you link to your github so I can checkout what I need to make a build like this🤤
Is this seriously using stepper motors? I figured it had to be brushless servos to be that quiet
yap stepper motor that was LDO 42STH48 2804 AH-R
@@devgru07 amazing! Man you just tipped me over the edge on building a Voron. My girlfriend is pretty noise sensitive, so I was worried it would be too loud, but this would work great.
@@evanbarnes9984 just using down below- part.1 for 24v : LDO 2004AC 1.8 degree and BTT TMC 2209 -> onver 150mm/s speed and 2000 accel value for first layer will be work with silent. part.2 for 48v : LDO 42STH48 2804AH-R 1.8 degree + BTT EZ5160RGB + EZ drive converter(if you don't using Octopus Max EZ MCU) + 48v 350w smps -> over 150 ~ 250mm/s speed and 2000 accel will be work with silent have g'luck!!!
Beautiful:) that's the way of the vorons
thanks a lot!!!
Wow that's incredibly quick and quiet. Impressive build.
thanks a lot!
I would be keen to see your inpurt shaper graphs for this.
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1pGCZkHHCp0rXegL11-knWqRvWkSH5ctV?usp=sharing The input shaper graph only needs to refer to this and not the values in that graph, and zero vfa's are being realized through manually calibrated input shaper data values.
@@devgru07 Could you go into more detail about this? Also thought that the recommended accel from the resonance graphs was a *hardish* limit. Wondering cause my graphs look pretty similar and I wanna print at 35k accel :(
@@milodudeful Simply, the 35K acceleration test is a final check for gantry assembly status and belt tension. It's just a very stupid stage truman show if you want high speed print. i think it will bring that faulty eveytime and most everybody gotta faulty when print with high speed even if more powerful cooling fan and high flow.
@@devgru07 Ahhh thats a lil disappointing. Was hoping to pump some more speed out of my 350, but im still waiting for the github with all the mods just for the reduction in noise.