Really enjoyed the video stuzman. You could have a TV show. Love your "way" of working through this problem. Between your draw, calm demeanor, observations, and your wife's giggles and "hmm's", you guys make some very charming how-to's. Thanks!
Well, the car sat for a long time because we didn't particularly need it. I have been overwhelmingly busy with work while preparing for our first child on the way. After reading others' diagnosis last summer, I felt confident that replacing the ignition switch would fix it, but the other tutorials showed removal of the steering wheel as necessary and I just haven't had that amount of time to dedicate to fixing it. Today I stumbled across your video and fixed it in less than 15 minutes. My wife wanted me to scrap the car for $300. New rotors and tires and she'll be like nothing ever happened. This has been hanging over my head for so long!
Well Zachary, that's good to hear that you got the car running now. And now don't you feel bad about all of that procrastinating :) Glad to hear that it was an easy fix for you and that you saved yourself some money by doing it yourself. Take care Zach...
In diagnosing this i ran into another problem. I was mistakenly looking at the black clutch switch and not the white one that is up higher. My Chilton manual also led me to believe the clutch switch interrupted ground so i grounded to the metal brackets on the dash and caused a cloud of smoke. I was wondering if you would know what that could of been or have any wiring diagrams for the cruise control system. The car runs as normal but i haven't actually drove it due to everything being all apart.
+Sam Moan Don't know what kind of issues that would cause other than blow a fuse. You can get some free wiring diagrams at www.bbbind.com Click on 'Technical Information' and then on 'TSB's & Wiring Diagrams'. You should find all the wiring diagrams that you'll need.
Great video sir. Love your accent reminds me of Dale Sr. My 03 golf has the same problem no smoke though. I changed the clutch pedal switch worked good until the temperatures got cold. I'm gonna watch your ignition switch video next. Thank you
Yes sir,if you love your newer Volkswagen, someone else works on it for you. I run my own mechanic shop, and I just want to cry when a VW shows up. I don't even want to put air in the tires. Great info video 👍😀😀
@@stuzman52 ever had a steering angle sensor problem after an alignment? Did an alignment on the wife's kia soul and now the electronic stability control is making the abs work on its own. How can I correct that without the proper scan tool or going to the dealer? I'm more of an old school mechanic and never had this happen.
Michael Jackson Tne only way I know is to use a scan tool that supports the function of aligning the steering angle. If you had the alignment done, the shop should be able to do this.
Stuzman haha I love your comment about guys who love Volkswagen's. I always say to my missus how much I hate working on her car. Any job on her car is triple the time of my aussie falcon. I'm trying to fix a no start, no crank, no dashlights issue. Seems like a bad earth but I have no idea where. Your explanation of the diagram really helps though. I've already replaced the ignition switch it's fine and the lock cylinder is fine. Its dead as a doornail like the battery is unplugged then when it decides it want's to power on it does at random.
Yeah I always do. Like in your Part 3 video I always get frustrated working on her car and curse the European engineers design. I can only imagine you curse at the car just like me once the camera is no longer rolling haha.
HaHa! If only you knew all the curse words that was coming out of me when I'm working on that thing. In fact, it's got issues now where the A/C doesn't work, the clear coat is flaking everywhere, the passenger door pull handle has snapped off and the intake manifold change-over-valve that I replaced 25,000 miles ago has gone bad again. VWs in my opinion is nothing but a pile of junk. I'll be working on that thing when it gets warmed up to get rid of it :))
Sounds just like hers intermittent door lock actuators that work when they want to work. When you're at 1/4 tank or below at any speed the engine can randomly decide to just totally stall then kick back in like an ignition cut. The sunroof drains were leaking into the interior because they were designed poorly and block up so snips fixed this. Stone chip on the front guard has flaked massively and down to bare metal. One summer on a hot day the gearbox started slipping like the torque converter had gone couldn't get any drive. Let it sit and it started working that was 6 years ago never done it again. Not too long ago the wipers got stuck on and wouldn't stop. I assumed the stalk was broken but it randomly fixed itself and hasn't done it since. Now this no power issue. Time for a new car I think.
Sounds like you've had your share of issues too with that car Peter. I've got four old vehicles and it's just the wife and I now. This VW came from the daughter where we bought it from her. We both must have been out of our minds at that point. Anyway, I guess the VW will generate a few TH-cam videos before I get rid of it :))
This was a great start to troubleshooting for this no crank condition. I have a 03 Beetle 1.8 to troubleshoot tomorrow at work with the same issue, no crank no start. It died while driving. However, 2 fuses in the left of the dashboard fuse panel, a 20 and 25amp keep blowing key off so thats where ill be starting. Now time to research how to read VW wiring diagrams :/
Yeah, Terry if you can do a video of the electrical detail behind how a starter motor works it would clarify some issues I've always wondered about. Specifically the little electric dance that happens when it switches from engaging the gear to just holding the gear engaged -- it seems to be a two step process. And why the motor current naturally spikes when the starter is not moving and then drops to a lower amperage when it spins. Thanks for posting these, I'm slowly catching up since we had so much busy time this summer. Cheers!
Good thing you caught me on this Dave. I just finished the filming on the diagrams, but haven't uploaded it yet. I'll add the part about the pull-in and hold-in solenoid windings along with the current spiking...Did you ever get that post in? I'm looking forward to #2 of that video...Take care Dave...
Excellent video dear sir. I got the second part also and will watch it after comment here. Great diagnostic and enjoyable work performed. Really need a video on starter locking relay function. Please upload when ever find some chance for that. Regards,
Thanks Jahan. Looking at the car right now and it's not going to be an easy fix. Looks like more stuff is got to come out to get access to the wiring insulation burnt.
stuzman52 Hope with your rock knowledge and effort things will be solved as previous! This will bring something very nice and good for us to see and understand. Remember sir for starter locking relay video in future. Regards,
LearningZone Thanks for the vote of confidence Jahan. In this video, I talked about the starter locking relay and how it worked. Basically, there is some electronics in the module that will provide a dc- (0v) to the relay coil, (also inside the same module). When the electronics receives +12V through the ignition start switch and clutch pedal switch, the relay contact closes. Then +12V is sent down to the solenoid components inside the starter. Not sure what more I could say about it Jahan. Depending on how much stuff I've got to take out, I may be able to get a shot of it so we can see what it looks like. Is there anything else that you would like to know about it?
stuzman52 Thanks for your explanation dear Sir! What I learned looking at schematic is first the electronic module is providing a +ve on the relay coil terminal which is connect with the electronic module. The coil will find its ground inside the starter. So by this way the starter locking relay energizes. At that moment the coil terminal connected to starter will get +ve at that moment the electronics changes the polarity and provides a -Ve on the coil and pulling current through it. So same way relay remains energized. Please look at my understanding and correct me if it is needed. Regards,
LearningZone Yes Johan, you are correct. In fact, looking back at the wiring diagram, I left out a step. As you've said, the bottom side of the relay is getting a ground through the solenoid winding. But notice that the relay coil is wired in series with the solenoid windings. So, it wouldn't be getting a full B+ voltage. The relay coil is going to require a minimum amount of current to pull in. This means that the electronics would have to provide a B+ voltage first at the top of the relay coil to get it to energize. The relay contact will close providing B+ to the solenoid windings. But now, the bottom side of the relay coil has a positive polarity. Since the top side of the coil would be positive also, the relay would drop out. So, evidently, the electronics switches the polarity to dc- to keep the relay energized. How does it know when to do this? I would assume that the current is being monitored through the relay coil and solenoid windings. Then once the relay contact changes state, and the polarity is the same on both sides of the relay coil, the electronics would know it because the relay current just dropped. At that point, the electronics switches polarity as mentioned. I can't say 100% that this is the way it works, but it seems feasible to me. What do you think Jahan?
In the wiring diagram there is a "clutch pedal position switch". Does this mean that your wife's Golf engine will only start if the clutch pedal is depressed when turning the ignition switch? I hope you don't mind me mentioning, that you remind me of the late actor Charles Bronson. I am learning from and enjoying your videos. Your wife and Jose are excellent. You are not so bad yourself.
Hi toyo. That is correct, the clutch pedal has to pressed before the engine will crank. Otherwise, if the car was in gear and you turned the key to start, the car will move creating a safety hazard. Mmmm, glad to hear that I remind you of Charles Bronson, but no kin that I'm aware (smiling)...What, wife and Jose are excellent and I'm not there in their category? LOL.
@@stuzman52 I have a problem with my 1995 vw clx 1.8l car. Have no spark in the spark plug. And no spark in the hall sender. Have a 4wire coil in place don't know how the wiring work
@@PaulBickram I got rid of this car years ago and I don't have access to any diagrams. However, there is a fella here on TH-cam who works on these cars everyday for a living. Check his channel out and post your question there. www.youtube.com/@EXOVCDS
Hi, I have a 2005 Jetta 1.9 TDI diesel. Died in a drive thru, now wont crank, no start. I followed the schematic as your video described. I have voltage to the clutch pedal switch and when you crank and push the pedal down Im getting voltage thru the switch. Found that the control wire (switched) to starter was grounded and I disconnected at the starter and found that the starter was shorted to ground internally. So Im going to replace the starter and hope that it starts afterwards
Guessing by your accent you're from NC. Oh and I love VWs and I work on them all the time. That 13 fold relay assembly is much easier to access by removing the lower dash panel, then the metal panel behind that.
+Jacksonkellyfreak Yep, that's correct and once I got into a little bit, the relay center wasn't that bad. Guess I scared myself in the beginning LOL...
stuzman52 I got family over in Morganton and took flight training in Rutherfordton over at Big Air Aviation at Marchman Field. VWs of that generation are actually pretty easy. I got a 2000 Jetta. Same engine and same 5 speed transmission. I can tell by the wood trim that yours is a GLX model, but mine is a GLS. I tell ya when I got the Bentley manual on PDF it made working on the thing an absolute cakewalk.
+Jacksonkellyfreak I'm over near High Point and I can't quite say that I have the same enthusiasm as you do with VW's. Most of the things that I've worked on with this car hasn't been the easiest thing to work on compared to other cars. And with this engine, it's not a lot of room to work on especially if you have to get on the left side of the engine. But, they are pretty peppy engines though and the wife loves to drive it. Looks like I'll be working on this again next week as I have to change the 'crack' pipe, thermostat housing along with a few other things. Take care Jackson and thanks for your comments.
stuzman52 are you putting the metal pipe in? Are you doing the thermostat housing as well? I'm over between Pigeon Forge and Knoxville. I know a lot of people are not very enthused about working on them, but for some reason I took to them like a duck to water. And I've only had mine since 2013, but the first week I had it that stupid door lock module went berzerk and I had to fix it, so instead of buying a $180 part from the dealer I bought a $5 microswitch from Radio Shack lol. I've worked on cars my whole life though. The only thing that really kind of sucks about these cars is that aside from the diesels and the Beetles, they have crappy resales. I got mine in perfect condition with 176k on it for 1600. And if you look at a 2.8 car with timing chain noise,( which I'm thinking of finding one needing chains to have as a second car because I'm driving 100 miles a day for school now) they're not even worth a thousand really because of the work involved with that. And it's because they are fiddly and challenging to mess with at times, most engine work requires removal of the front end, They're perceived as expensive to fix and the timing chains are on the back of the engine. Labor rates will flat out eat you up on them, but there are parts sites that sell oem and good quality aftermarket parts for them at really good prices. RockAuto is one, but you really gotta watch them on the 1999.5-2001 because I've gotten a lot of parts for the previous body style that were listed wrong. Germanautoparts, ECS tuning and Uro tuning are really good and you won't pay through the nose for things. I'm no expert on em by any means but I do know a lot about them, and you can feel free to send me a message if you need some help.
+Jacksonkellyfreak I'll be replacing the thermostat housing, thermostat, oil cooler o'rings, oil filter flange gasket along with the coolant pipe. I went back and forth and did some research of whether it was going to be plastic or metal. And looking over the forums, it seems it was a toss up of where some loved the metal coolant pipe and others didn't like it because it leaked. And some even went to other vendors after their leakage issue and it still leaked. Maybe something wrong in the bore behind the water pump. Who knows! I'm going with the plastic OEM as I don't want to take a chance on leaking. As you've mentioned, some people love VWs and love working on them. Me, I'm not that crazy about the car and have only kept it because the wife loves it. In any event, after this repair, I believe this car is going to get sold. And what engineer would have you remove engine mounts, tranny mount along with a slew of other items, jack the engine up to replace a water pump. And putting the timing chains on the rear of the engine, what a great idea of where you have to pull the tranny, clutch assembly if manual, flywheel to replace these items. I wonder why the German engineers didn't split the engine block in the middle, put the chains inside between the two blocks and then have you remove the engine, unbolt the two halves to replace those timing items. I worked with a European mechanical engineer and what would seem like an obvious solution to anyone, he would come up with the most bizarre, most complicated solution to a problem. And he could never see the logic of his design compared to what should be simple. That's how I see the German engineers! Let's make it as complicated as possible... As for RockAuto, I've got some parts from them that didn't work either. Point in case is using a fuel pump relay. If you get an aftermarket and not an OEM relay, your car will shut off when you open the driver door. I put a small video out warning people of that one. I like using www.germanautoparts.com as their parts are OEM and haven't had any problems with their stuff. Well, take care Jackson and have a good weekend and thanks for your thoughts...
Sorry I didn't know you had VW... Well one thing I miss from my Golf GTI is ease to make u turns in tight spaces. I haven't had another car like that...
we bought a 2000 Vw beetle TDI and it turns over but want crank replaced the relay and the pump fire is getting to the pump but it want start any suggestions?
Thank you David! The wiring diagrams were purchased from a paid subscription and we wouldn't to violate their copyright laws. You can get the same diagrams at a very reasonable cost from here www.eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp
Help!!! Fuel pump quitting Fuel pump replaced Runs fine if wired direct to the battery. Radiator cooling fans come on at random times draining the battery, when they should come on when the radiator is hot and needs cooling and after turn the switch off. They came on when the car has been sitting for 2 days. Last time it quit was because of a “Engine Cam Shaft Position Sensor” failure that made it not run, this only happened once. Fuel pump and cooling fans 6 to 8 times each. Each time it sits for a few hours to a day or so, it will fire right up and run like there is nothing is wrong, in some cases for 2 or 3 months.
My 01 Jetta relays keep malfunctionimg. It can start in neatral and fuse is ok so must be relay. Starter keeps engaging for too long, replaced starter and relay now it's doing it again. My accent lighting and license plate lights won't turn off. The trunk keeps trying to lock but the latch is broken probably from that I'm assuming that's the trunk lid remote lock relay. I've been searching for help? Could this cause my issues?? Or do I just need to replace all the relays?
Charles, you'll need a good understanding of how electrical systems work and you'll need a wiring diagram for troubleshooting. I can't say what your problem is as it will need to be troubleshot.
+Richard Frank It's from a paid subscription. But you can get free wiring diagrams from www.bbbind.com When you get there, look for 'Technical Information' and then click on 'TSB's and Wiring Diagrams.
Didn't see you pressing in the clutch switch after the key was turned. If the switch wasn't depressed then of course you aren't going to get 12v through the switch. Wish you would have shown that and your grounding location.
No need to press the clutch switch DJ. I only need to turn the ignition switch to the start position to send 12V to the clutch switch. Pressing the clutch switch off and on is not going to toggle my voltage. I'm on the top side of the clutch switch where it should be hot all the time when the ignition switch is in the start position. As for the ground connection, it was just a metal bracket and I didn't see the importance. Probably could have shown the t-pin connection at the clutch switch. Thanks for the comment DJ.
stuzman52 Ohhh I went back and rewatched the video. The first test was just to test your meter for a good 12v signal. 2nd test was for the red wire. I thought the first test was the red wire and 2nd test was after the switch indicating a bad clutch switch. Got it. So next in process of elimination to cut the work in half I think would be the Red/Gray after the ignition switch. Once you get the column cover off it should be fairly easy to get at plus you can try to find the source of that smoke.
***** You got it DJ and I couldn't explained it any better. My first check as you said was just to check my ground to see if I had +12V which was a big red wire coming up on a stud of the relay center. Looking back at it now, I probably should have shown my connections, but what seemed obvious to me was probably not clear. Once I found that I had +12V which confirmed that my ground was good, then I went right to the clutch pedal switch which was measured on the top side as you've said to see which half of the circuit the problem lies. You know the old saying, should be pretty easy now, or have you heard the one that goes like this, "all you gotta do is...". I'm with you, as I hope it's not too bad of a problem. Take care DJ...
hello Stuzman52. your videos are amazing and very explicit. i got a vw jetta 1999 1.9 engine on it.i drove 40km with it and after stoping the engine for just 2 minutes it doesn't start again. turning the ignition switch on, it turns directly to the start position without any signals, the dashboard doesn't turn on. the key is just turning freely in the ignition and the headlights, central locking system and horn works properly. do you have any ideas what it is like?
Thanks for the comment on the videos Big Jon. Since your car isn't doing anything when you turn the key and the key turns freely in the ignition switch, it sounds like you may have a bad switch. Drop the covers around the steering column to get access to the switch. I'm not sure about the details for your car as it may be different from mine. They should be similar though so it should be easy enough to figure out. Once you get the covers off and have access to the switch, you should be able to do your diagnosis there at the switch. Good luck on your repair and take care...
I did check all of those, I just put in a new stereo and I believe the wires need to be adjusted, it's draining my battery. I connected all the wires as diagram states but I have read a few pages saying to reverse the yellow and red wires. Do you have any suggestions on the wires? Do you have any videos on timing belt changing on the Jetta? Thank you
+Leeny Marie Doyle I would follow the instructions with the stereo and would assume that if it's wired correctly, it should work without draining the battery. So, it sounds like you may have connected on to a B+ point instead of maybe a point which is controlled by the ignition switch. I don't know anything about what stereo you used, so I can't help in that regard. As for timing belt changes, I don't have any videos, but check out my friend's channel where he works on VWs everyday for a living. th-cam.com/channels/m3WosFt2A-Z1P436Fkjfxw.html
I want to start by saying your video is well done very helpful, but so far hasn't helped me LOL I have a Volkswagen Beetle 1.8 t with which I'm having a no crank issue. the battery is holding and 11.8 volt charge right now. ✔battery cables ✔clip to solenoid ✔starter bench tested ✔clip to clutch switch ✔starter/clutch relay everything checks out on the multimeter. what would be your next step in your diagnosis process?
Did you check the voltage going to the solenoid starter when the ignition switch is turned to start? I see that you have 'clip to solenoid' but I don't know what that means. Do you have a wiring diagram for the car and what year is it?
Mansa, when you checked the ignition wire going to the solenoid and you had power, you should be done. This would point to the solenoid or starter. Or maybe a locked engine. I would assume that you checked this with a voltmeter while the wire is hooked up. Or you could unhook the wire from the solenoid and check for voltage with a test light when the key is turned to start. With the test light this would load the circuit so you know there is no resistance in this ignition wire. But if you're sure that you have the voltage then you've checked everything down to the starter. This would imply there is a problem with the solenoid or the starter. But you say that you bench tested the starter. Did you ensure that you put a voltage on the solenoid terminal? In any event, here's a link to free wiring diagrams and TSB's for your car or any car for that matter. You can get free wiring diagrams from www.bbbind.com When you get there, look for 'Technical Information' and then click on 'TSB's and Wiring Diagrams.' Fill out the brief form and then you can get the wiring diagram for your car so that you can see how your system if wired up. Hope that helps!
This is totally weird. The other day I was sitting in my car while it was running and I turned the key to turn the car off and the engine and everything kept running even when I pulled the key out of the ignition, so I put the key back in and let it run for a while and maybe about 10 mins later i turned the key took it out and it turned off like it should. 2000 Volkswagen jetta GLX. Any idea on what the problem might be?
I have a VW Jetta 2011. 120K miles. It won't crank as of this morning. All the light on the dash light up as well as headlights turn on. A few days ago I attempted to jump start another car. With no success. Could it have somehow messed up wiring on my car?
Hi Chris. Hopefully, the videos will help in your repair. In this video series, I tried to put a lot of information here, especially in the last one. Take care...
You CANNOT assume that a fuse is actually good by visual inspection as he did at about 3:20. Either check for voltage being the same on both sides of the fuse or take it out and check it for continuity. I know this because I made the same assumption and spent hours chasing false leads one afternoon.
So on my 00 Jetta the dash lights won't even come on, doesn't turn over and then I hear some weird clicking noises in the steering column. Do you have any ideas what it could be?
+Leeny Marie Doyle Lenny, I assume that you've checked the battery. Another easy check is to check your fuses. After that, you'll probably want to drop the panel underneath the steering wheel to start some electrical diagnostics.
In my case the initial open voltage is 12.1volts. and when i start using the key the voltage drops to 11 volts and reaches 11.5 when i unlock the key . is this a starter motor problem . would also like to know the minimum voltage to start the vehicle at the starter motor relay .specification of the starter motor is 12.volts .
kbsunil prabi When cranking, the voltage at the starter solenoid shouldn’t fall below 10V. The better the battery and wire connections, the higher this voltage.
I have a 2000 Volkswagen Golf that will turn over but won't fire. It gets fuel fine, but has no spark. Any idea where to start? The battery is perfectly charged.
Hi I have a intermittent issue with a Golf mk5 GTI. randomly when we try start it, it will turn over once or maybe less, and then stop. if we turn the key off and on again, it starts perfect. Ive changed the starter with a 2nd hand one an changed the battery, its still doing it. any ideas?
+toiletduckie44 First you could do some voltage drop testing of the battery cables. And if that looks okay, start taking a look at the ignition switch and starter relay.
hello I have a problem with my 2004 gas engine jetta. I was driving it the other and started to lose power, decelerating until completely went off. try to turn it on again. it wouldn't do it. probably after 10 min turned back on an it did the same thing as couple more tines. thank you for your help.
+karla fonseca Karla, with your description, it's hard to understand what you're saying. I assume that your car is losing power and then shuts off. You try to start it and it doesn't. Does it crank? Does it crank, but won't start?
great video stuzman52 you got heart man looks like a tight area looking forward to part 2 in your past do you have VW dearlership expierence ? mark ferraro
Thanks Mark and you're right that it's very tight quarters up there. No, I don't have any VW dealership experience and in fact, I've never worked on cars for a living. Just a DIY enthusiast like a lot of guys out there, so I learn right along with everyone else.
@@ADDvanced Only two things comes to mind. Either you have a bad starter motor or the engine is locked up. Can you hear anything from the starter motor when you turn the switch to start?
@@ADDvanced Assuming that you have a good starter although a new one can be bad and the engine can turn over, I would recheck the voltage to the solenoid when turning the key. And be sure to check your battery connections and that the battery is good.
Unfortunately this dose not seem to b the problem my jetta dose the same thing turn the key and all dash lights work raido kicks on and off but the car wont crank im lost tested the bat and it has 12.64 volts but when i turn the key it drops 4 or 5 volts any suggestions
I have a 2000 jetta and my Abvs light will come but there is nothing wrong with my brakes. it is now having electrical problems if the light pops on when I hit my brakes my headlights start flickering my radio clicks in and out and if I use my blinker it flicks my head lights and my radio in and out. anyone have any idea were to look for the problem at?
+Cozia James It sounds like you've got an intermittent B+ or ground issue, possibly corrosion. Time to start pulling out some wiring diagrams to start doing some diagnostics. I would look over the diagram and see what's common to say your radio and headlights since they are flickering. And I'm sure that your ABS is connected here too, but the other two circuits would be easier to access. Go to www.bbbind.com to get your free wiring diagram and good luck on your diagnostics.
Hi MIchael. In my situation, the ignition switch felt perfectly normal. When I turned it to the start position, there was spring action and seemed normal. Yet the switch was of course bad. If you have no spring action at all, then you know definitely that you have an ignition switch problem.
Michael Farmer Keep in mind Michael that the spring action is in the ignition switch when you turn to start, although you may have a lock cylinder issue also.
Michael Farmer That's okay Michael. If you have an interest in how things work, you'll find the answers which can help you work on your car. There's a lot of info out there which is free, so you'll do fine if you have the interest to learn.
Hi Billy, you're right that VWs can be a pain in the butt and I'll have to trust you on the other makes as I haven't had a chance to work on one of them. Thank goodness for that!
hello i have a 97 passat vr6 and when i turn the key on it doesn't send power to my gas pump and it takes 3-4 times so it can start anyone know what could it be thank you.
Amancio Ramirez Maybe you're having an issue with your driver door where the fuel pump doesn't prime when the door is opened. Maybe something like this video th-cam.com/video/G_uBUhZgXxk/w-d-xo.html&feature=em-subs_digest
+Amancio Ramirez Did you actually check the voltage on the load side of the fuel pump relay to verify your suspicions that you're not getting power to the fuel pump? What did you check to know this?
You could check the voltage on fuse 28, which is a 10 amp fuse. This fuse is for your fuel pump. When you turn the key to the start position, you should see 12VDC on this fuse. You could also monitor the current through the fuse to see if your fuel pump starts. I haven't check the amperage, but should be around 5 amps. Another quick method to check amperage without an ammeter is to measure the millivolts across the fuse. You'll see the small voltage when the pump starts.
Chris, no need to give up so soon. Is the car still a no crank with the low voltage? Tell me where you're at and what the symptoms are? I can't remember if you told me, but what year is this VW and engine size?
Its a 2002 jetta 4 cil 2.0 with no crank went out and got a new bat and brought the starter to have it tested and its good I'm going to the dealer to c if my key needs to b recoded I also reset the alarm system still no crank
While you were under the dash, did you happen to check the start position of the ignition switch to see if voltage was getting through the switch? I don't have a diagram for your car,
See if you can get a battery charger on it and get the battery charged up. If it won't charge fully, then you'll need to get a new battery. Sometimes, when batteries get really dead, a jump start sometimes still won't get it going. After you get it cranked, do some more testing to ensure the charging system is working correctly. While you're there, go ahead and clean up the terminals on the cables too. Hopefully, it's just a battery problem giving you the issue.
Chris Leslie That would be a very good reason why it won't crank. When I told you about the battery, I did think it was strange that you had only 4 or 5 volts when you tried to crank it. For the voltage to get pulled down that low, you've got a major short in the wiring. You may have a blown fuse(s) with this kind of damage. In my case, I didn't have any fuses blown with the burnt insulation. As you may know, on my car, it's a 110A fuse feeding the starter circuit. Not sure about yours since I don't know the year. You may need a wiring diagram for your car as I'm sure there will probably be other wire insulation melted. Keep me informed of your progress in what you find.
I tore the dash apart found no blown fuses no melted wires I think that's the only spot they don't make it easy to get to the wires under the dash love vw
Removing an old car alarm that was spliced into the ignition stitch wires. Video is much appreciated.
Glad the video helped!
Really enjoyed the video stuzman. You could have a TV show. Love your "way" of working through this problem. Between your draw, calm demeanor, observations, and your wife's giggles and "hmm's", you guys make some very charming how-to's. Thanks!
Thank you Zachary! And for your reasons, that's why the wife and I like to film to share information. Means a lot and thanks again!
Hey! Our Vr6 just started up for the first time in over a year! thank you thank you!
HaHa! And I don't even know what I did to help you start your car up LOL..
Well, the car sat for a long time because we didn't particularly need it. I have been overwhelmingly busy with work while preparing for our first child on the way. After reading others' diagnosis last summer, I felt confident that replacing the ignition switch would fix it, but the other tutorials showed removal of the steering wheel as necessary and I just haven't had that amount of time to dedicate to fixing it. Today I stumbled across your video and fixed it in less than 15 minutes. My wife wanted me to scrap the car for $300. New rotors and tires and she'll be like nothing ever happened. This has been hanging over my head for so long!
Well Zachary, that's good to hear that you got the car running now. And now don't you feel bad about all of that procrastinating :) Glad to hear that it was an easy fix for you and that you saved yourself some money by doing it yourself. Take care Zach...
Just spending some time learning new things from your videos, hoping I never have to do this on my Jetta.
Thanks Bernarda for watching and for the comment!
Excellent thought process. I hope it's an easy fix. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Jimmy. I hope it's an easy fix too.
Thanks a Ton! Your video helped me diagnose another no start issue. Mine was a bad ground on the backside of the relay.
+Sam Moan Glad to hear that you got it fixed Sam!
In diagnosing this i ran into another problem. I was mistakenly looking at the black clutch switch and not the white one that is up higher. My Chilton manual also led me to believe the clutch switch interrupted ground so i grounded to the metal brackets on the dash and caused a cloud of smoke. I was wondering if you would know what that could of been or have any wiring diagrams for the cruise control system. The car runs as normal but i haven't actually drove it due to everything being all apart.
+Sam Moan Don't know what kind of issues that would cause other than blow a fuse. You can get some free wiring diagrams at www.bbbind.com Click on 'Technical Information' and then on 'TSB's & Wiring Diagrams'. You should find all the wiring diagrams that you'll need.
Great video sir. Love your accent reminds me of Dale Sr. My 03 golf has the same problem no smoke though. I changed the clutch pedal switch worked good until the temperatures got cold. I'm gonna watch your ignition switch video next. Thank you
Hope the videos help you out Josh!
Yes sir,if you love your newer Volkswagen, someone else works on it for you. I run my own mechanic shop, and I just want to cry when a VW shows up. I don't even want to put air in the tires. Great info video 👍😀😀
Yes, Michael! When these cars are new, they run pretty good. But when they get some age on them, they're nothing but a money trap. 😊
@@stuzman52 ever had a steering angle sensor problem after an alignment? Did an alignment on the wife's kia soul and now the electronic stability control is making the abs work on its own. How can I correct that without the proper scan tool or going to the dealer? I'm more of an old school mechanic and never had this happen.
Michael Jackson Tne only way I know is to use a scan tool that supports the function of aligning the steering angle. If you had the alignment done, the shop should be able to do this.
@@stuzman52 thanks. I have a small racing alignment setup and did it myself. I don't currently have a scan tool for this. I appreciate it though 😊
Great job on the video. very clear diagramming & steps to follow... Thx
+Thomas Hunt You're welcomed Thomas!
Stuzman haha I love your comment about guys who love Volkswagen's. I always say to my missus how much I hate working on her car.
Any job on her car is triple the time of my aussie falcon.
I'm trying to fix a no start, no crank, no dashlights issue. Seems like a bad earth but I have no idea where. Your explanation of the diagram really helps though. I've already replaced the ignition switch it's fine and the lock cylinder is fine.
Its dead as a doornail like the battery is unplugged then when it decides it want's to power on it does at random.
Thank you Peter and I've found that working on VWs is not the easiest car to work on :) I'm sure that you'll fine the issue on wife's car.
Yeah I always do. Like in your Part 3 video I always get frustrated working on her car and curse the European engineers design. I can only imagine you curse at the car just like me once the camera is no longer rolling haha.
HaHa! If only you knew all the curse words that was coming out of me when I'm working on that thing. In fact, it's got issues now where the A/C doesn't work, the clear coat is flaking everywhere, the passenger door pull handle has snapped off and the intake manifold change-over-valve that I replaced 25,000 miles ago has gone bad again. VWs in my opinion is nothing but a pile of junk. I'll be working on that thing when it gets warmed up to get rid of it :))
Sounds just like hers intermittent door lock actuators that work when they want to work. When you're at 1/4 tank or below at any speed the engine can randomly decide to just totally stall then kick back in like an ignition cut. The sunroof drains were leaking into the interior because they were designed poorly and block up so snips fixed this. Stone chip on the front guard has flaked massively and down to bare metal.
One summer on a hot day the gearbox started slipping like the torque converter had gone couldn't get any drive. Let it sit and it started working that was 6 years ago never done it again.
Not too long ago the wipers got stuck on and wouldn't stop. I assumed the stalk was broken but it randomly fixed itself and hasn't done it since.
Now this no power issue.
Time for a new car I think.
Sounds like you've had your share of issues too with that car Peter. I've got four old vehicles and it's just the wife and I now. This VW came from the daughter where we bought it from her. We both must have been out of our minds at that point. Anyway, I guess the VW will generate a few TH-cam videos before I get rid of it :))
This was a great start to troubleshooting for this no crank condition. I have a 03 Beetle 1.8 to troubleshoot tomorrow at work with the same issue, no crank no start. It died while driving. However, 2 fuses in the left of the dashboard fuse panel, a 20 and 25amp keep blowing key off so thats where ill be starting. Now time to research how to read VW wiring diagrams :/
+dreamer2355 Good luck on what you find and resolving the issue.
Did it work?
Yeah, Terry if you can do a video of the electrical detail behind how a starter motor works it would clarify some issues I've always wondered about. Specifically the little electric dance that happens when it switches from engaging the gear to just holding the gear engaged -- it seems to be a two step process. And why the motor current naturally spikes when the starter is not moving and then drops to a lower amperage when it spins. Thanks for posting these, I'm slowly catching up since we had so much busy time this summer. Cheers!
Good thing you caught me on this Dave. I just finished the filming on the diagrams, but haven't uploaded it yet. I'll add the part about the pull-in and hold-in solenoid windings along with the current spiking...Did you ever get that post in? I'm looking forward to #2 of that video...Take care Dave...
Any motor under load at zero RPM will draw the most current which will drop off as the motor starts turning.
Excellent video dear sir. I got the second part also and will watch it after comment here. Great diagnostic and enjoyable work performed. Really need a video on starter locking relay function. Please upload when ever find some chance for that. Regards,
Thanks Jahan. Looking at the car right now and it's not going to be an easy fix. Looks like more stuff is got to come out to get access to the wiring insulation burnt.
stuzman52 Hope with your rock knowledge and effort things will be solved as previous! This will bring something very nice and good for us to see and understand. Remember sir for starter locking relay video in future. Regards,
LearningZone Thanks for the vote of confidence Jahan. In this video, I talked about the starter locking relay and how it worked. Basically, there is some electronics in the module that will provide a dc- (0v) to the relay coil, (also inside the same module). When the electronics receives +12V through the ignition start switch and clutch pedal switch, the relay contact closes. Then +12V is sent down to the solenoid components inside the starter. Not sure what more I could say about it Jahan. Depending on how much stuff I've got to take out, I may be able to get a shot of it so we can see what it looks like. Is there anything else that you would like to know about it?
stuzman52 Thanks for your explanation dear Sir! What I learned looking at schematic is first the electronic module is providing a +ve on the relay coil terminal which is connect with the electronic module. The coil will find its ground inside the starter. So by this way the starter locking relay energizes. At that moment the coil terminal connected to starter will get +ve at that moment the electronics changes the polarity and provides a -Ve on the coil and pulling current through it. So same way relay remains energized. Please look at my understanding and correct me if it is needed. Regards,
LearningZone Yes Johan, you are correct. In fact, looking back at the wiring diagram, I left out a step. As you've said, the bottom side of the relay is getting a ground through the solenoid winding. But notice that the relay coil is wired in series with the solenoid windings. So, it wouldn't be getting a full B+ voltage. The relay coil is going to require a minimum amount of current to pull in. This means that the electronics would have to provide a B+ voltage first at the top of the relay coil to get it to energize. The relay contact will close providing B+ to the solenoid windings. But now, the bottom side of the relay coil has a positive polarity. Since the top side of the coil would be positive also, the relay would drop out. So, evidently, the electronics switches the polarity to dc- to keep the relay energized. How does it know when to do this? I would assume that the current is being monitored through the relay coil and solenoid windings. Then once the relay contact changes state, and the polarity is the same on both sides of the relay coil, the electronics would know it because the relay current just dropped. At that point, the electronics switches polarity as mentioned. I can't say 100% that this is the way it works, but it seems feasible to me. What do you think Jahan?
Hello Stuz..good lesson from you..I love it...thumb up for you sir...from Malaysia...
I sub yr channel
Please sent me a copy of wiring diagram for VW touran starting cct...to myzulkiflyy@gmail.com
Sorry, I don't have wiring diagrams. You can acquire them for your car at www.alldatadiy.com or www.eautorepair.net
Thank you very much!
Thanks for the suggestions you have provided here.
You're quite welcomed!
Well explained and very helpful. Thanks!
+Erik Fuller Thanks Erik and glad to help!
Thanks for helping me.
You are welcome Caleb!
In the wiring diagram there is a "clutch pedal position switch". Does this mean that your wife's Golf engine will only start if the clutch pedal is depressed when turning the ignition switch?
I hope you don't mind me mentioning, that you remind me of the late actor Charles Bronson. I am learning from and enjoying your videos. Your wife and Jose are excellent. You are not so bad yourself.
Hi toyo. That is correct, the clutch pedal has to pressed before the engine will crank. Otherwise, if the car was in gear and you turned the key to start, the car will move creating a safety hazard. Mmmm, glad to hear that I remind you of Charles Bronson, but no kin that I'm aware (smiling)...What, wife and Jose are excellent and I'm not there in their category? LOL.
@@stuzman52 I have a problem with my 1995 vw clx 1.8l car. Have no spark in the spark plug. And no spark in the hall sender. Have a 4wire coil in place don't know how the wiring work
@@PaulBickram I got rid of this car years ago and I don't have access to any diagrams. However, there is a fella here on TH-cam who works on these cars everyday for a living. Check his channel out and post your question there. www.youtube.com/@EXOVCDS
Great video like my mk cab 4 but i got climb the stairs to get to top
Thank you Mason!
Hi, I have a 2005 Jetta 1.9 TDI diesel. Died in a drive thru, now wont crank, no start. I followed the schematic as your video described. I have voltage to the clutch pedal switch and when you crank and push the pedal down Im getting voltage thru the switch. Found that the control wire (switched) to starter was grounded and I disconnected at the starter and found that the starter was shorted to ground internally. So Im going to replace the starter and hope that it starts afterwards
Good luck on your repair!
Thanks my problem was no crank no start After watch your video I find my problem my problem was my relay Thank you very much you are the fucking man
U were right just checked and the batt died over night tried to jump it and it still won't turn over
Guessing by your accent you're from NC. Oh and I love VWs and I work on them all the time. That 13 fold relay assembly is much easier to access by removing the lower dash panel, then the metal panel behind that.
+Jacksonkellyfreak Yep, that's correct and once I got into a little bit, the relay center wasn't that bad. Guess I scared myself in the beginning LOL...
stuzman52
I got family over in Morganton and took flight training in Rutherfordton over at Big Air Aviation at Marchman Field. VWs of that generation are actually pretty easy. I got a 2000 Jetta. Same engine and same 5 speed transmission. I can tell by the wood trim that yours is a GLX model, but mine is a GLS. I tell ya when I got the Bentley manual on PDF it made working on the thing an absolute cakewalk.
+Jacksonkellyfreak I'm over near High Point and I can't quite say that I have the same enthusiasm as you do with VW's. Most of the things that I've worked on with this car hasn't been the easiest thing to work on compared to other cars. And with this engine, it's not a lot of room to work on especially if you have to get on the left side of the engine. But, they are pretty peppy engines though and the wife loves to drive it. Looks like I'll be working on this again next week as I have to change the 'crack' pipe, thermostat housing along with a few other things. Take care Jackson and thanks for your comments.
stuzman52
are you putting the metal pipe in? Are you doing the thermostat housing as well? I'm over between Pigeon Forge and Knoxville. I know a lot of people are not very enthused about working on them, but for some reason I took to them like a duck to water. And I've only had mine since 2013, but the first week I had it that stupid door lock module went berzerk and I had to fix it, so instead of buying a $180 part from the dealer I bought a $5 microswitch from Radio Shack lol. I've worked on cars my whole life though. The only thing that really kind of sucks about these cars is that aside from the diesels and the Beetles, they have crappy resales. I got mine in perfect condition with 176k on it for 1600. And if you look at a 2.8 car with timing chain noise,( which I'm thinking of finding one needing chains to have as a second car because I'm driving 100 miles a day for school now) they're not even worth a thousand really because of the work involved with that. And it's because they are fiddly and challenging to mess with at times, most engine work requires removal of the front end, They're perceived as expensive to fix and the timing chains are on the back of the engine. Labor rates will flat out eat you up on them, but there are parts sites that sell oem and good quality aftermarket parts for them at really good prices. RockAuto is one, but you really gotta watch them on the 1999.5-2001 because I've gotten a lot of parts for the previous body style that were listed wrong. Germanautoparts, ECS tuning and Uro tuning are really good and you won't pay through the nose for things. I'm no expert on em by any means but I do know a lot about them, and you can feel free to send me a message if you need some help.
+Jacksonkellyfreak I'll be replacing the thermostat housing, thermostat, oil cooler o'rings, oil filter flange gasket along with the coolant pipe. I went back and forth and did some research of whether it was going to be plastic or metal. And looking over the forums, it seems it was a toss up of where some loved the metal coolant pipe and others didn't like it because it leaked. And some even went to other vendors after their leakage issue and it still leaked. Maybe something wrong in the bore behind the water pump. Who knows! I'm going with the plastic OEM as I don't want to take a chance on leaking. As you've mentioned, some people love VWs and love working on them. Me, I'm not that crazy about the car and have only kept it because the wife loves it. In any event, after this repair, I believe this car is going to get sold. And what engineer would have you remove engine mounts, tranny mount along with a slew of other items, jack the engine up to replace a water pump. And putting the timing chains on the rear of the engine, what a great idea of where you have to pull the tranny, clutch assembly if manual, flywheel to replace these items. I wonder why the German engineers didn't split the engine block in the middle, put the chains inside between the two blocks and then have you remove the engine, unbolt the two halves to replace those timing items. I worked with a European mechanical engineer and what would seem like an obvious solution to anyone, he would come up with the most bizarre, most complicated solution to a problem. And he could never see the logic of his design compared to what should be simple. That's how I see the German engineers! Let's make it as complicated as possible... As for RockAuto, I've got some parts from them that didn't work either. Point in case is using a fuel pump relay. If you get an aftermarket and not an OEM relay, your car will shut off when you open the driver door. I put a small video out warning people of that one. I like using www.germanautoparts.com as their parts are OEM and haven't had any problems with their stuff. Well, take care Jackson and have a good weekend and thanks for your thoughts...
Sorry I didn't know you had VW... Well one thing I miss from my Golf GTI is ease to make u turns in tight spaces. I haven't had another car like that...
The wife and daughters love the car as far as driving it, but it's sometimes a challenge to work on them.
Thanks ! I used to have vw golf , had too many problems I would not get another one...
I'm starting to think like you Tito. Thanks for watching.
we bought a 2000 Vw beetle TDI and it turns over but want crank replaced the relay and the pump fire is getting to the pump but it want start any suggestions?
Sounds like you mean that it will turn over, but won't start. Two things to check are fuel and spark. Pretty basic stuff Wendy.
Thank you stuzman! Very Helpful, especially the explanation of the wiring diagram. Any chance you can link the wiring diagram for us? Thanks again
Thank you David! The wiring diagrams were purchased from a paid subscription and we wouldn't to violate their copyright laws. You can get the same diagrams at a very reasonable cost from here www.eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp
Help!!!
Fuel pump quitting
Fuel pump replaced
Runs fine if wired direct to the battery.
Radiator cooling fans
come on at random times draining the battery, when they should come on when the radiator is hot and needs cooling and after turn the switch off. They came on when the car has been sitting for 2 days.
Last time it quit was because of a “Engine Cam Shaft Position Sensor” failure that made it not run, this only happened once. Fuel pump and cooling fans 6 to 8 times each.
Each time it sits for a few hours to a day or so, it will fire right up and run like there is nothing is wrong, in some cases for 2 or 3 months.
My 01 Jetta relays keep malfunctionimg. It can start in neatral and fuse is ok so must be relay. Starter keeps engaging for too long, replaced starter and relay now it's doing it again. My accent lighting and license plate lights won't turn off. The trunk keeps trying to lock but the latch is broken probably from that I'm assuming that's the trunk lid remote lock relay. I've been searching for help? Could this cause my issues?? Or do I just need to replace all the relays?
Charles, you'll need a good understanding of how electrical systems work and you'll need a wiring diagram for troubleshooting. I can't say what your problem is as it will need to be troubleshot.
Where did you get the wiring diagram? Thank you
+Richard Frank It's from a paid subscription. But you can get free wiring diagrams from www.bbbind.com When you get there, look for 'Technical Information' and then click on 'TSB's and Wiring Diagrams.
Didn't see you pressing in the clutch switch after the key was turned. If the switch wasn't depressed then of course you aren't going to get 12v through the switch. Wish you would have shown that and your grounding location.
No need to press the clutch switch DJ. I only need to turn the ignition switch to the start position to send 12V to the clutch switch. Pressing the clutch switch off and on is not going to toggle my voltage. I'm on the top side of the clutch switch where it should be hot all the time when the ignition switch is in the start position. As for the ground connection, it was just a metal bracket and I didn't see the importance. Probably could have shown the t-pin connection at the clutch switch. Thanks for the comment DJ.
stuzman52 Ohhh I went back and rewatched the video. The first test was just to test your meter for a good 12v signal. 2nd test was for the red wire. I thought the first test was the red wire and 2nd test was after the switch indicating a bad clutch switch. Got it. So next in process of elimination to cut the work in half I think would be the Red/Gray after the ignition switch. Once you get the column cover off it should be fairly easy to get at plus you can try to find the source of that smoke.
***** You got it DJ and I couldn't explained it any better. My first check as you said was just to check my ground to see if I had +12V which was a big red wire coming up on a stud of the relay center. Looking back at it now, I probably should have shown my connections, but what seemed obvious to me was probably not clear. Once I found that I had +12V which confirmed that my ground was good, then I went right to the clutch pedal switch which was measured on the top side as you've said to see which half of the circuit the problem lies. You know the old saying, should be pretty easy now, or have you heard the one that goes like this, "all you gotta do is...". I'm with you, as I hope it's not too bad of a problem. Take care DJ...
hello Stuzman52. your videos are amazing and very explicit. i got a vw jetta 1999 1.9 engine on it.i drove 40km with it and after stoping the engine for just 2 minutes it doesn't start again. turning the ignition switch on, it turns directly to the start position without any signals, the dashboard doesn't turn on. the key is just turning freely in the ignition and the headlights, central locking system and horn works properly. do you have any ideas what it is like?
Thanks for the comment on the videos Big Jon. Since your car isn't doing anything when you turn the key and the key turns freely in the ignition switch, it sounds like you may have a bad switch. Drop the covers around the steering column to get access to the switch. I'm not sure about the details for your car as it may be different from mine. They should be similar though so it should be easy enough to figure out. Once you get the covers off and have access to the switch, you should be able to do your diagnosis there at the switch. Good luck on your repair and take care...
I did check all of those, I just put in a new stereo and I believe the wires need to be adjusted, it's draining my battery. I connected all the wires as diagram states but I have read a few pages saying to reverse the yellow and red wires. Do you have any suggestions on the wires? Do you have any videos on timing belt changing on the Jetta? Thank you
+Leeny Marie Doyle I would follow the instructions with the stereo and would assume that if it's wired correctly, it should work without draining the battery. So, it sounds like you may have connected on to a B+ point instead of maybe a point which is controlled by the ignition switch. I don't know anything about what stereo you used, so I can't help in that regard. As for timing belt changes, I don't have any videos, but check out my friend's channel where he works on VWs everyday for a living. th-cam.com/channels/m3WosFt2A-Z1P436Fkjfxw.html
I want to start by saying your video is well done very helpful, but so far hasn't helped me LOL
I have a Volkswagen Beetle 1.8 t with which I'm having a no crank issue. the battery is holding and 11.8 volt charge right now.
✔battery cables
✔clip to solenoid
✔starter bench tested
✔clip to clutch switch
✔starter/clutch relay
everything checks out on the multimeter. what would be your next step in your diagnosis process?
Did you check the voltage going to the solenoid starter when the ignition switch is turned to start? I see that you have 'clip to solenoid' but I don't know what that means. Do you have a wiring diagram for the car and what year is it?
I mean the female clip that sends power to the solenoid on the starter. I had someone turn the key while l tested it, and it checked out.
No l dont have a wiring diagram, its a 2000 beetle 1.8t
Mansa, when you checked the ignition wire going to the solenoid and you had power, you should be done. This would point to the solenoid or starter. Or maybe a locked engine. I would assume that you checked this with a voltmeter while the wire is hooked up. Or you could unhook the wire from the solenoid and check for voltage with a test light when the key is turned to start. With the test light this would load the circuit so you know there is no resistance in this ignition wire. But if you're sure that you have the voltage then you've checked everything down to the starter. This would imply there is a problem with the solenoid or the starter. But you say that you bench tested the starter. Did you ensure that you put a voltage on the solenoid terminal? In any event, here's a link to free wiring diagrams and TSB's for your car or any car for that matter. You can get free wiring diagrams from www.bbbind.com When you get there, look for 'Technical Information' and then click on 'TSB's and Wiring Diagrams.' Fill out the brief form and then you can get the wiring diagram for your car so that you can see how your system if wired up. Hope that helps!
This is totally weird. The other day I was sitting in my car while it was running and I turned the key to turn the car off and the engine and everything kept running even when I pulled the key out of the ignition, so I put the key back in and let it run for a while and maybe about 10 mins later i turned the key took it out and it turned off like it should. 2000 Volkswagen jetta GLX. Any idea on what the problem might be?
***** I would start looking at the ignition switch itself.
I Fowled the harness and it leaders right to the starter
Hahaha loves volkwagens,,, good videos always,,
I have a VW Jetta 2011. 120K miles. It won't crank as of this morning. All the light on the dash light up as well as headlights turn on. A few days ago I attempted to jump start another car. With no success. Could it have somehow messed up wiring on my car?
Only if the leads were reversed when placed on the battery...Otherwise, not likely!
you see that nothing drain current when you try to start the car , so you should suspect the clutch pedal switch first :) ,
I like the vid I hope it my problem if it is I will look back at ur vid for the ancers
Hi Chris. Hopefully, the videos will help in your repair. In this video series, I tried to put a lot of information here, especially in the last one. Take care...
You CANNOT assume that a fuse is actually good by visual inspection as he did at about 3:20. Either check for voltage being the same on both sides of the fuse or take it out and check it for continuity. I know this because I made the same assumption and spent hours chasing false leads one afternoon.
Mmmm, I went to 3:20 on the timeline and I DID NOT see myself inspecting a fuse.
So on my 00 Jetta the dash lights won't even come on, doesn't turn over and then I hear some weird clicking noises in the steering column. Do you have any ideas what it could be?
+Leeny Marie Doyle Lenny, I assume that you've checked the battery. Another easy check is to check your fuses. After that, you'll probably want to drop the panel underneath the steering wheel to start some electrical diagnostics.
In my case the initial open voltage is 12.1volts. and when i start using the key the voltage drops to 11 volts and reaches 11.5 when i unlock the key . is this a starter motor problem . would also like to know the minimum voltage to start the vehicle at the starter motor relay .specification of the starter motor is 12.volts .
kbsunil prabi When cranking, the voltage at the starter solenoid shouldn’t fall below 10V. The better the battery and wire connections, the higher this voltage.
Thanks
I'm having this problem right now with my Volkswagen Beetle it won't crank, I bought a alternator and A new Battery.
I have a 2000 Volkswagen Golf that will turn over but won't fire. It gets fuel fine, but has no spark. Any idea where to start?
The battery is perfectly charged.
I would start looking at the crank sensor and and see what that turns up.
Hi I have a intermittent issue with a Golf mk5 GTI. randomly when we try start it, it will turn over once or maybe less, and then stop. if we turn the key off and on again, it starts perfect. Ive changed the starter with a 2nd hand one an changed the battery, its still doing it. any ideas?
+toiletduckie44 First you could do some voltage drop testing of the battery cables. And if that looks okay, start taking a look at the ignition switch and starter relay.
So it's normal the ignition switcher get bad? Today I just turn on my Jetta 97, but never starts, and all the electric is good
Rodney Carbguif I don’t know if it’s a common issue, but the ignition switches do fail.
hello I have a problem with my 2004 gas engine jetta. I was driving it the other and started to lose power, decelerating until completely went off. try to turn it on again. it wouldn't do it. probably after 10 min turned back on an it did the same thing as couple more tines. thank you for your help.
+karla fonseca Karla, with your description, it's hard to understand what you're saying. I assume that your car is losing power and then shuts off. You try to start it and it doesn't. Does it crank? Does it crank, but won't start?
+stuzman52 it does crank but won't start
+stuzman52 it does crank but won't start.
+karla fonseca Sounds like it's basics. Check for fuel pressure and ignition spark.
Hi where can i get this wiring diagram?Cheers.
Here you go... www.eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp
great video stuzman52 you got heart man looks like a tight area looking forward to part 2 in your past do you have VW dearlership expierence ? mark ferraro
Thanks Mark and you're right that it's very tight quarters up there. No, I don't have any VW dealership experience and in fact, I've never worked on cars for a living. Just a DIY enthusiast like a lot of guys out there, so I learn right along with everyone else.
Well we all do things differently,but l would have gone to the source of the smoke first off,without wasting time.
I think I found the prob I hope fuel injectors wires and harness are fried
Wouldn't it have been easier to just put a meter on the starter to see if you're getting 12v?
Always different ways to troubleshoot as long as you reach the same outcome of the issue.
@@stuzman52 I'm getting 12v to the starter.... replaced the starter.... still won't turn over. ?!
@@ADDvanced Only two things comes to mind. Either you have a bad starter motor or the engine is locked up. Can you hear anything from the starter motor when you turn the switch to start?
@@stuzman52 A click, since I put in the new starter.
@@ADDvanced Assuming that you have a good starter although a new one can be bad and the engine can turn over, I would recheck the voltage to the solenoid when turning the key. And be sure to check your battery connections and that the battery is good.
Ok Sosa awsome
Unfortunately this dose not seem to b the problem my jetta dose the same thing turn the key and all dash lights work raido kicks on and off but the car wont crank im lost tested the bat and it has 12.64 volts but when i turn the key it drops 4 or 5 volts any suggestions
Chris, where are you measuring the voltage, is it at the battery posts? If so, sounds like you've got a near dead battery.
Does it turn over at all and what happens when you jump it from the battery in another car?:
I have a 2000 jetta and my Abvs light will come but there is nothing wrong with my brakes. it is now having electrical problems if the light pops on when I hit my brakes my headlights start flickering my radio clicks in and out and if I use my blinker it flicks my head lights and my radio in and out. anyone have any idea were to look for the problem at?
+Cozia James It sounds like you've got an intermittent B+ or ground issue, possibly corrosion. Time to start pulling out some wiring diagrams to start doing some diagnostics. I would look over the diagram and see what's common to say your radio and headlights since they are flickering. And I'm sure that your ABS is connected here too, but the other two circuits would be easier to access. Go to www.bbbind.com to get your free wiring diagram and good luck on your diagnostics.
where did you get that diagram so hard to find on the internet
Alicia, the wiring diagrams used in this video series were obtained through a paid subscription located here www.eautorepair.net
thank you so much
Спасибо.
PLEASE answer, when you turn the key to start, was there still spring to it or was it just loose? Mine has NO spring at all!
Hi MIchael. In my situation, the ignition switch felt perfectly normal. When I turned it to the start position, there was spring action and seemed normal. Yet the switch was of course bad. If you have no spring action at all, then you know definitely that you have an ignition switch problem.
Yes, I am looking at replacing the ignition lock cylinder
Michael Farmer Keep in mind Michael that the spring action is in the ignition switch when you turn to start, although you may have a lock cylinder issue also.
okay, thank you for the correction. This has all been a learning process because i'm 17 and it's my first car.
Michael Farmer That's okay Michael. If you have an interest in how things work, you'll find the answers which can help you work on your car. There's a lot of info out there which is free, so you'll do fine if you have the interest to learn.
Ya its at the batt
thank you @stunzman52
People like to rag on VW for being bad to work on (and I'll admit, some things are a pain), they've got nothing on BMW, Mercs, etc.
Hi Billy, you're right that VWs can be a pain in the butt and I'll have to trust you on the other makes as I haven't had a chance to work on one of them. Thank goodness for that!
better oem part availability and price for vw/audi as well. Anyways, just hope you never have to replace a heater core in a VW.... ;)
Billy Severt Yes, I've heard that replacing the heater core is a bear although I've never done it before. Thanks for the insight Billy...
the joke is that when VW designed Jetta's, they started with heater core, then built the rest of the car around it...
Billy Severt Ha, Ha...you're probably not to far from the truth..
hello i have a 97 passat vr6 and when i turn the key on it doesn't send power to my gas pump and it takes 3-4 times so it can start anyone know what could it be thank you.
Amancio Ramirez Maybe you're having an issue with your driver door where the fuel pump doesn't prime when the door is opened. Maybe something like this video th-cam.com/video/G_uBUhZgXxk/w-d-xo.html&feature=em-subs_digest
even when the door is close it does it
+Amancio Ramirez Did you actually check the voltage on the load side of the fuel pump relay to verify your suspicions that you're not getting power to the fuel pump? What did you check to know this?
+stuzman52 no how can i do that
You could check the voltage on fuse 28, which is a 10 amp fuse. This fuse is for your fuel pump. When you turn the key to the start position, you should see 12VDC on this fuse. You could also monitor the current through the fuse to see if your fuel pump starts. I haven't check the amperage, but should be around 5 amps. Another quick method to check amperage without an ammeter is to measure the millivolts across the fuse. You'll see the small voltage when the pump starts.
Got new batt and wire harness and still nothing I'm just going to give up soon and many crush the car at wits end with this thing
Chris, no need to give up so soon. Is the car still a no crank with the low voltage? Tell me where you're at and what the symptoms are? I can't remember if you told me, but what year is this VW and engine size?
Its a 2002 jetta 4 cil 2.0 with no crank went out and got a new bat and brought the starter to have it tested and its good I'm going to the dealer to c if my key needs to b recoded I also reset the alarm system still no crank
While you were under the dash, did you happen to check the start position of the ignition switch to see if voltage was getting through the switch? I don't have a diagram for your car,
so can't say where to check for points to check.
U were right just checked and the batt died over night tried to jump it and it still won't turn over
See if you can get a battery charger on it and get the battery charged up. If it won't charge fully, then you'll need to get a new battery. Sometimes, when batteries get really dead, a jump start sometimes still won't get it going. After you get it cranked, do some more testing to ensure the charging system is working correctly. While you're there, go ahead and clean up the terminals on the cables too. Hopefully, it's just a battery problem giving you the issue.
I think I found the prob I hope fuel injectors wires and harness are fried
Holy crap Chris. What did you exactly find?
The harness that is melted goes to the starter I think that is y I have no crank
Chris Leslie That would be a very good reason why it won't crank. When I told you about the battery, I did think it was strange that you had only 4 or 5 volts when you tried to crank it. For the voltage to get pulled down that low, you've got a major short in the wiring. You may have a blown fuse(s) with this kind of damage. In my case, I didn't have any fuses blown with the burnt insulation. As you may know, on my car, it's a 110A fuse feeding the starter circuit. Not sure about yours since I don't know the year. You may need a wiring diagram for your car as I'm sure there will probably be other wire insulation melted. Keep me informed of your progress in what you find.
I tore the dash apart found no blown fuses no melted wires I think that's the only spot they don't make it easy to get to the wires under the dash love vw
Chris Leslie Okay Chris, sounds good. Keep up the good work!