How To fit plaster coving - Knauf - Wickes and Gyproc
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ย. 2021
- Are you ready to up your home renovation game? Let's talk about coving, or as our American friends call it, crown moulding! It's the perfect way to add a touch of elegance to any room, and today we're going to show you how to fit plaster coving like a pro.
First up, we're using Knauf brand plaster coving, but the principles apply to any type of coving you might use. When it comes to cutting and measuring, make sure you take your time and get it just right. And remember, when joining lengths together, always cut them at a mitre angle for a perfect fit.
Now, some people might be tempted to just butt the lengths together, but trust us - a mitre cut is the way to go. It's much easier to get the coving into place, and you'll end up with a much neater finish once you've filled and painted it.
If you're working with traditional full plaster coving, you might find yourself dealing with some fancy patterns. Don't worry, it's not as daunting as it sounds! Just make sure you mirror the pattern as it goes into a corner, so it looks the same as it comes back out. And if you come across a corner that just won't match up perfectly, don't fret - just do your best to make it look as good as possible for that optical visual appearance.
We hope these tips have been helpful, and stay tuned for more home renovation advice coming your way soon!
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Great video! I had 2 walls to replace the coving on. Was not confident to do the job. Watched your video from start to finish.
When the misses asked "is that right to have a join on a diagonal like that?" I could confidently say Yes!
Once the job was finished and filler applied, she remarked how impressed she was with my DIY skills. It's only taken 13 years for her to male a remark like that!! Thanks Phil 👍
glad i could help. You can watch more of my videos now.. Like on them, subscribe and learn a few more tips along the way that will mean... Happy Wife = Happy Life :D
Great video Phil. I loved working with my dad doing building works. Also, I still think coving sets a room off after all these years. Looks classy. Job well done 👍🏻
Wow, your video is the exact answer we've been looking for. Thank you so much, and for your very excellent work.
here to help... like, subscibe.. share ;)
Cheers Phil, good to see you working with your dad 👍
He turned 77 back in June. He's with the next few days.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator you can't keep them back Phil I visited my dad last week and he was on the bungalow roof fixing a tile and he's 79, hope we're as agile at that age, 😀
Great job Phil and Dad, coving is the only job I don’t look forward to as a decorator, I love the rest of it.👍👏
It's a good earner and looks good when done right. Mitre cuts are the key... Not butt jointing them together.
Hi Phil an Dad , great video as always 👍, I follow almost the same process , but I use the steel nails in the wall and ceiling just to hold the coving till it sets , like you done on the window wall.. no nails in coving, had issues before with older houses as you said wires , an pipes a danger too. Your correct also not to use a wet brush to even of the adhesive, not only can it sink but I've seen staining pull through after a coat of acrylic primer ,( probably from the older walls ) I used oil undercoat before where that was an issue , as plasterers have them fitted on some jobs before I get there. Great work looking forward to the rest of the project 👍
Yeah. The nails go in just to hold it in place incase there's movement and dry out and it drops off!! Seen it happen when stripping and it not stuck well. If traditional plaster cove we use screws . Counter sink a hole first then put a screw in... Using cordless drill ;)
Yep great video there Phil,very informative mate
Ps.and ya pops
Glad you enjoyed it
THANK FOR YOUR VIDEO
I have never put nails through the coving. Couple underneath and in ceiling just to take the weight and movement but a cracking job 👏👏
It just reduces the risk of it dropping off. :)
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator no problem all the best 👍
Could you with a laser level take you measurement from the ceiling line down to the bottom of the coving to work out the lowest point so the coving runs true you may have larger filler gaps on the top or would this be to time consuming
Yes you could do. But it's as easy to measure down the wall the 83mm every so often and hand your bottom edge to that. You'd soon see if it's running out, then adapt the gaps top and bottom.. extra back filling may be needed if it's really bad.
I'd say don't over think it. With experience you'll get the feel how you need it to be going into the angles.
Hi phill brilliant video a always had trouble trying to get the angles correct would usually cut them all wrong maybe the blue angle gauge will help
Overkill with the nails
@@philiphazeldine7651 yeah I agree, I just get our lass to stand holding it for 2 hours … saves buying nails.
Unsure if i missed it but why do you use tile adhesive as opposed to coving adhesive ?
Correct. Found it to be better adhesive property. If it can hold tiles... Cove will be no problems.
Also, we used to use cove adhesive but it went too runny.
Don't forget, we put nails to hold in place too
Bit confused using tile adhesive? When gyproc make coving adhesive OR dry wall adhesive is designed/ developed to stick paper covered plaster board ( which coving basically is ) to walls
If it holds a tile, it'll hold some paper.
It was something a plaster cover fitter recommended years ago to us for fitting all coving.. including Gyproc. And it was a good call. It's easier to work and being ready mixed means an evening consistency of adhesive.
Back in the day of the powder adhesive, that was a faff making it up as you went so not to have too much made up at any one time.
Don't forget there's nails pinning it as well.
As I’m going bald I won’t be able to store my pencil in the same place you do, will this hinder me from fitting coving ?
very much so, I shouldn't even try it lol
Great tutorial, very informative! EPS plaster-coated coving is perfect for DIY jobs - it's budget-friendly, moisture-resistant, and adds tons of style. Homemerce ltd is my go-to for coving and trim. They have a huge range, great quality, and unbeatable prices. Everything is designed for easy DIY installation and a custom, high-end finish.
Glad it was helpful!
Was just looking at the same Wickes coving to fit myself and came across this excellent video you made - which is extremely helpful. Just one question - and that is regarding the adhesive. The ready mix you show being used - is I guess is for convenience - but I'll probably be purchasing the Knauf powdered version - due to cost. Before I do, any thoughts on that i.e. whether it is better to get ready mixed to save time / effort etc? PS. I have about 16 linear metres to fit. Many thanks. Subscribed 👍
Hi. Tnx. It's up to you. It's so much easier with tub adhesive... Waterproof tile adhesive is fine... Cheap and the mix is consistent.
Power mixing will do your head in lol
I did a job the other week using 'S' shapes Gyproc coving from B&Q... I fitted that with a 2.5kg of normal waterproof tile adhesive.. about £13. I didn't use all of it.
The final filling up I use filler as it dries easy to sand down and get nice.
The rest you'll know off the video.
;)
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Many thanks for the response - I'll go with your advice and go ready mixed. Seen this - Everbuild 701 Non Slip Wall Tile Adhesive 7.5kg - and says its for Bathrooms, Kitchens and Showers. Would that be okay and enough for fitting between 15-20 linear metres of the same Wickes coving? Incidentally, why the need for it to waterproof? Many thanks
@@andychapman3100 that'll be fine, no need to be waterproof.. but I find it works ok ;) See the video.. I still put some nails in to hold in place, then counter sink then. fill up after some first coat primer goes on... you've seen the video. :D
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thank you
@@andychapman3100 just looked at the adhesive I last used.. it's an instant grab, wall and floor tile adhesive. says water proof on it
Where did you get the blue template, pal?
Wickes :)
Nice vid !!!
Nice job Phil, I flipping hate coving.
It's easy when you know how ;) lol
Can you use the adhesive in the tubes that you put in a gun
I wouldn't do, not on this Cove. If you were putting up light weight coving it may be ok.
But with the plaster cove like this the weight is the issue. Also using the tile adhesive, you can back fill and face fill the top and bottom gaps like we show.
There is many ways to fit coving and many work fine ,but i was taught by a plaster and coving professional to use dry wall adhesive and to put plenty on the coving and when coving is pushed into place ,the excess squeezes out and quickly removed with a narrow scraper ,and there is no need to fill in the gaps as there is no gaps ,
We don't have drywall in the UK.
It'll depend how neat to out can clean down the edges.
Internal and external corners will need re filling as they never match 100%.
It's all in the video
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator you can't get dry wall adhesive in the UK ?
Your equivalent to Home Depot surely sells it ?
@@boyasaka our plaster boards are skimmed with plaster finish.. about 3-5mm thick.
Sack the plasterer 😂
That's piss easy. Make a video on hi to cut angles around a bag window which are no 45degrees.
oh it was...... show me what you do
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator go on then? How do you cut angles on coving around a bay window which are not 45 degrees ? Without a power tool?
You mean a rounded bay window?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator no not rounded.
So with corners that are NOT 45°.
Most aren't anyway.
What you need to do is offer up the cove.
Make top and bottom, with each length.
When the lines cross each other that is your angle.
So you mark on the coving...on each piece.. those points.
Then cut to those marks.. they'll be slightly offset depending on the angle.
Just make sure you cut it correctly so it's will match to the length you're'butting' up to.
I did it like that with the S shape coving in a recently video. You get a better corner internal or external with less filling to do.
Nails in the permitted wiring zone...... not the best idea unless you are absolutely certain what is running in the wall.
Did you see how long those ring shank nails are? It's there to hold the cove in place, going through the cove and into the plaster board, it helps keep the cove from dropping if the adhesive failed
And a cable should be vertical to the socket, so being either side of where sockets are, you shouldn't have a problem.
Thanks for commenting watching and though.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I did see that they were not particularly long, however you are knocking them into a permitted area / safety zone (the entire top 150mm of the wall is a part of this area, not just the parts that are vertically upward of a socket). I understand the reason you have put them in (i've never had coving fall with normal coving adhesive once the length is up, but I see the insurance policy of doing it). If this is part of a refurb then running cabling in the permitted area around the perimeter of the room is a common practice and does not require chasing if the wall is dot and dabbed. Your nails will be straight through plastic capping and into the T&E clipped direct to the wall. The comment was not out of rudeness but to alert people using it as method to a potential risk, and a whole heap of extra work.
For those reading who would like to know where they might find hidden cables in their walls this is a very useful, easy to read guide:
www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/electrical-safe-zones.htm
have you seen how they fit plaster coving? the drill and screws come out to hold it in place.
Absolute amateurs ong
oh, do tell.